NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,

GANDHINAGAR

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

SUBMITTED BY: GUIDED BY:

MISHIKA SHARMA (BFT/21/209) MR. VIMAL SINGH
PALAK CHAURASIA (BFT/21/490)
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to express my heartfelt gratitude to Ankur textiles for providing us with the
invaluable opportunity to intern at their esteemed organization. This industry
internship has been an incredible learning experience, allowing us to gain practical
insights, enhance my skills, and develop a deeper understanding of the field. We are
immensely thankful to our mentors and colleagues for their guidance, support, and
encouragement throughout the internship. This valuable experience has undoubtedly
contributed significantly to our personal and professional growth, and We are truly
grateful for the opportunity.

We are especially thankful to-

Ms. Jincy Mathew (HR dept.)

Mr. Dipak Chowdhary (Internship mentor)
Mr. Shamim Khan (Safety and security mentor)
Mr. Milind Trivedi ( Weaving loom shed mentor)
Mr. Sandeep Agrawal ( Greige Inspection ans W/H mentor)
Mr. Rajesh Bhuva ( Bleaching mentor)
Mr. Rahul Tamboli ( Dyeing mentor)
Mr. Prakesh Desai ( Finishing mentor)
Mr. Nikhil Padhya ( Print Design Studio )
Mr. Vinod Patel (Print Production )
Mr. Piyush Chauhan ( Finished Inspection )
Mr. Umang Modi (Chemical Testing )
Mr. Siddharth Mistry (Physical Testing )

-for their kind cooperation.

We would like to thank “Mr. Amit Kr Shah (Factory Manager)” for his effort and help
provide to us to get such an excellent opportunity. There were so many personalities
who shared valuable information that helped in the successful completion of this
internship and project.
 CONTENT

S. NO. TOPIC PAGE NO.

01 OBJECTIVES OF INTERNSHIP 04
02 ABOUT THE COMPANY - ARVIND LIMITED 05
03 ABOUT ANKUR MILL 06
04 ZERO LIQUID DISCHARGE 07
05 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW CHART 10

06 SPINNING 11
07 WEAVING PROCESS 16
08 GREIGE INSPECTION 27
09 PRE-PROCESSING 31
10 DYEING 41
11 PRINTING 49
12 FINISHING 61

13 QUALITY ASSURANCE 69
14 INSPECTION AND PACKAGING 81
14 Product development 84
 OBJECTIVES OF INTERNSHIP

The objectives of our internship based on the learning outcomes are as follows:

To learn about the textile industry and its various processes through hands-on
experience during the internship.
To understand the role of different departments in a textile company and how they
contribute to overall operations.
To gain familiarity with textile machinery and equipment by observing their
operation and maintenance.
To explore the use of technology in the textile industry and its impact on
productivity and efficiency.
To assess the environmental practices followed by the company and their
commitment to sustainability.
To actively participate in research and development projects related to textiles.
To develop problem-solving skills by addressing production challenges and finding
solutions.
To improve communication and teamwork abilities through collaboration with
colleagues and participating in team projects.
To evaluate personal growth and identify areas of improvement for future career
development in the textile industry.
To document and reflect upon the internship experience in a comprehensive report.

The objective of "Textile Internship" in the course "Apparel Production," the learning of
the processes in the textile industry is emphasised. These processes include the main
steps of obtaining raw materials, such as spinning, weaving, or knitting, as well as
dyeing, printing, finishing, testing, and quality control procedures. The focus of the
internship is on studying the operations and production at a textile manufacturing
facility. It also places a lot of emphasis on teaching the process parameters, working
environment, process flow, and other key production requirements.
It's also crucial to pay attention to the specifics of the machinery, the safety precautions,
and the productivity, testing, and quality standards. We must comprehend how each
process is broken down into steps, how it is carried out, and what the start and finish
results are at each of these processes.
 ABOUT THE COMPANY - ARVIND LIMITED

Arvind Limited is a prominent Indian multinational conglomerate that operates in

various sectors, including textiles, branded apparel, engineering, and real estate. The
company has a rich history spanning over eight decades and has played a significant role
in shaping the Indian textile industry.

Founded in 1931 in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, by Kasturbhai Lalbhai, Arvind Limited initially

started as a textile manufacturer. Over the years, it expanded its operations and
diversified into other segments, becoming one of the largest integrated textile
companies in India. Arvind has a strong presence across the textile value chain, from
manufacturing fabrics to designing and retailing branded garments.

In the textiles sector, Arvind Limited is known for its innovation and technological
advancements. The company has invested in state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities,
including the world's largest denim manufacturing plant. Arvind has collaborated with
renowned international brands and has been a key player in bringing premium denim to
the Indian market. It has also pioneered sustainable practices in the textile industry,
focusing on water conservation, energy efficiency, and waste reduction.

As a socially responsible corporation, Arvind Limited actively participates in various

corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives. It supports education, healthcare, and
community development programs, aiming to create a positive impact on society and
contribute to sustainable growth.

In conclusion, Arvind Limited has made significant contributions to the textile and
apparel manufacturing industry. With its state-of-the-art facilities, expertise in denim
manufacturing, and a diverse range of apparel brands, the company continues to be a
leader in the Indian market. Arvind's focus on quality, innovation, and sustainability has
positioned it as a trusted name in the industry.
 ANKUR MILL
DIV: ARVIND LIMITED

Ankur Textiles is part of the illustrious Arvind Group and specializes in voiles, rather it
is India’s largest organized manufacturer of Lifestyle voiles! Voile is a soft sheer fabric
and majorly used in dress-making and soft furnishings. Going with the latest trends in
the world of fashion we have a unique focus on ethnic segment and ladies dress material.
They cater to the growing need through a network of around 200 dealers, reaching over
7500 retail outlets throughout India. Their high-quality Swiss voiles are exported to
Switzerland, Sri Lanka and countries in the Middle East. They provide tailor-made
products as per customized requirements to their customers from around the world.
They use a wide range of fibres (Cotton, PC, PV, Ramie etc.) to design our products. By
using the latest technology, they have developed the capability of diverse colors
matching and they can proudly say that this has become their USP. They also deliver
wide range of printed fabric. The width of fabric that they offer can ranges from 36″ to
58″.

COMPANY DETAILS:

Name of the industry: Ankur Textiles ( A

Division of Arvind LTD. ) Address: O/S
Raipur Gate Ahmedabad – 380022 Gujarat,
India Phone: +91 79682-67200 E-mail:
ankur@arvind.in
Type of industry: Composite mill consisting
Weaving, Processing, Printing and
Packaging.
Staff: 51
Worker: 200
Turnover: 500 crores
 ZERO LIQUID DISCHARGE (ZLD)

A strategic wastewater management method called zero liquid discharge (ZLD) makes
sure that no industrial effluent will be released into the environment. It is accomplished
by first recycling wastewater, followed by recovery and reuse for industrial purposes.
Ankur began implementing the zero discharge system in 2021.
 PROCESS
ZLD is a closed loop cycle without discharge. ZLD is an expensive process, but by
recovering salts and other chemical components, it opens the door to economic gains.
The ZLD system is driven by the following factors:
1. Water shortage
2. Economics of water
3. Environmental laws

The following elements make up a systematic ZLD:

1. ETP Treatment
2. RO (membrane processes)
3. Evaporator and crystallizer (thermal processes)

ZLD has advantages, including:

1. Recycling prevents wastewater outflow.
2. Water and salt recovery helps to lower ZLD's operating expenses.
3. It encourages the industry's and the environment's overall sustainability.
4. Because the textile sector uses less water, more water is available for home utilities
and other uses, such irrigation in agriculture.
5. ZLD contributes to environmental recovery.
6. The cement industry can utilise the sludge successfully.

The principle of “zero discharge” is recycling of all industrial wastewater. This means
that wastewater will be treated and used again in the process. Because of the water
reuse wastewater will not be released on the sewer system or surface water.
 ETP Treatment
Screening
Physico - chemical Treatment
Pretreatment
Biological Treatment
Sand Filtration

RO (membrane processes)
Ultra Filtration Treatment
Reverse Osmosis
95% water become ready to used

Remaining 5% impure water get

evaporator and crystallizer (thermal
processes)

Recycled water ready for use

PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW CHART

SPINNING

WEAVING PREPARATORY

WEAVING

GREIGE INSPECTION

WET PROCESSING

DYIENG/PRINTING

FINSHING

FINISHING INSPECTION

QUALITY ASSURANCE

PACKAGING
 SPINNING

Spinning is a crucial process in the production of yarn. It involves the conversion of

fibers into continuous strands by twisting and elongating them. The fibers are fed into
spinning machines where they undergo drafting and twisting, resulting in the formation
of yarn. Spinning plays a vital role in determining the quality, strength, and consistency
of the yarn, which is further used in weaving or knitting to create fabrics.
Despite being a prominent textile producer, Ankur Textile currently lacks the capability
to spin yarns internally. As a result, they rely on outsourcing yarns and subsequently
process them to meet their production needs.

Therefore, let's explore the subsequent procedures employed by Ankur Textile once
they receive the outsourced yarns.

OUTSOURCED SPINNING

SINGLE YARN DOUBLE YARN

DOUBLING SINGEING

TWISTING STEAMING

STEAMING

AUTOCONER

SINGEING

STEAMING
Doubling: Doubling is a process in which
two or more single yarns are combined
together to create a thicker and stronger
yarn. It involves twisting the individual
yarns together, usually in the opposite
direction to their original twist, to form a
new yarn with increased strength and
stability.

Machine name Double winder

model Textool
production 3.5 ton/day approx
capacity 400-480 winners
heads 120*6
shifts/labours 2 Shifts- 30 labours

Twisting: Twisting is the process of

adding twist to doubled yarn. It involves
rotating the yarn in a spiral motion to
create cohesion and strength. Twisting
can be done in either a clockwise (S-twist)
or counterclockwise (Z-twist) direction,
depending on the desired properties of
the final yarn or fabric.
Steam Processing: Following doubling, the yarns
may undergo steam processing. Steam is applied to
the yarns, either in a steaming chamber or through
steam jets, to achieve specific effects. This can
include majorly removing snarling, relaxing the
fibers, removing wrinkles, or setting the shape of
the yarns. ultimately enhancing their performance
and appearance.

Machine name conditioning chamber

model sara elgi
production 3200 KG/ day
capacity 400-500/ cycle
temprature 85 degree celcius
time 1,5 hr/cycle

AUTOCONER: Once the steam

processing is complete, we use
AUTOCONER machines for winding the
yarn onto cones or bobbins.
AUTOCONER machines are automated
winding machines that offer features
such as electronic yarn clearers, tension
control, splicing, and automatic doffing.
These machines ensure precise and
efficient winding of the yarn, ready for
further processing or use in textile
production.
Machine name Rewinidng
model sara elgi
production 4.5-5 lacs meter/ day
capacity 1 kg each cone
speed 1000m/min
time 8hrs

Singeing: Singeing is a process that involves

burning or singeing off the protruding fibers on
the surface of the fabric or yarn. It is done to
improve the appearance of the textile by
creating a smooth and even surface, reducing
pilling, and enhancing dye absorption. Singeing
is commonly performed using a flame or heated
plates, and it helps to produce fabrics with a
clean and refined finish.

Machine name
model
production 3.5-3.6 lacs meter/day
speed 750m/min
pressure 400 bar
quantity 4 (120 cone per machine)
temprature 25-32 degree
 WEAVING PROCESS

During the weaving process, two separate sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right
angles to produce a fabric or cloth.
The weft threads are woven horizontally through the warp while the warp threads are
stretched vertically on a loom or frame. A fabric is created by weaving the weft threads
in a certain pattern over and under the warp threads.
The weaving technique enables the development of numerous patterns, textures, and
designs in the fabric. Traditional looms can be used for hand weaving, or more recent
power looms can be used for machine weaving. It is used to create a broad variety of
fabrics, including those for rugs, furniture, clothing, and industrial uses.
 WEAVING PREPARATION

The fundamental component of weaving is yarn. As a result, weaving the yarn into a
fabric should be the next process following producing the yarn. In actuality, though, the
quality of the yarn made on the spinning machine isn't always excellent enough to be
utilised straight for making fabrics. Both the filling yarn and the warp yarn must be
further processed for effective fabric production due to the package size, yarn surface
properties, and other aspects. Weaving preparation is the name given to these
preliminary procedures.
When weaving, distinct conditions and demands are placed on the warp and filler yarns.
As a result, there are differences in how warp and weft yarns are prepared. Higher stress
is placed on warp yarn, necessitating further preparation. Depending on the weaving
techniques, the filling yarns might not even need to be prepped before being brought to
the weaving process straight from the spinning process. The ring-spun yarns, however,
must undergo a winding procedure for a number of reasons.
The methods used to prepare yarns for weaving vary according to the type of yarn.
The preparation of the warp yarn is more difficult and labor-intensive than the
preparation of the weft yarn. The weaving machine must apply many thousand
cycles of varying stresses to each location in the warp yarn. Dynamic
tension/contraction, rotation (twist/untwist), and hair adhering are some weaving
stresses. In addition, there are bending tensions between metal and yarn as well as
abrasion stresses between metal and yarn.
Spindles of short-length yarns are the product of the spinning mechanism. Due to
their extremely short lengths, insufficient yarn content, and size that is
inappropriate for weaving procedures, these spindles cannot be used in the
following production process. A yarn packet created by winding is suitable for
further processing.
The flexibility of the fibre is increased by the application of lycra. In the fibre that is
exported to nations with lower levels of perspiration than India, where cotton is
mostly used for the same reason, filament is employed.
At Ankur Mills, the weaving division holds the distinction of being the biggest, and
about 80% of its produced cloth is exported.
A core consisting of the addend is woven into the fabric while the original cotton is
twisted around it. Warp refers to yarn that is woven vertically, whereas weft refers
to yarn that is weaved laterally. Cotton counts ranging from 5 to 20 are typically
used for weaving.
 WINDING
Packages wrapped in spring or PP tubes are how yarn is delivered from the dyeing
machine. On the looms, they cannot be utilised directly for weft yarn or warp. In order
to weave, winding machines and autoconers are available. The leftover cone packaging
recycling is also done with the help of these devices. Packages that have served as weft
or warp on looms and still have yarn on them are gathered and made into larger
packages so they can be reused.
The procedure involves loading long continuous lengths of yarn from numerous ring
frame bobbins or hanks onto larger containers like Warper's bobbins, cones, or cheese.
The yarn's undesirable flaws are eliminated throughout this process. Ring frame bobbins
can be used in the reeling process to create hanks for the use of dyed yarn. These hanks
are coloured before being wound. Also coloured is the yarn in cone or cheese form. As a
result, the winding packages (warpers' bobbin, corn or cheese) are moved on to the
Direct Warping or Sectional Warping process of warping. There are 80 workers in this
division.
OBJECTIVES OF WINDING:
Scanning and defects removal: During the winding process, yarn faults are checked
for and eliminated by electric scanners (uster). Usterization of yarn is the name of
this procedure. Scan-cuts are the name for such errors.
Splicing of cut or broken yarn: Broken yarn pieces are automatically spliced to
remove yarn tangles and poor piecing.
Larger and better-quality packaging: Converting yarn from small ring bobbins to
larger yarn cones that meet various international standards or the needs of the
customer. Some flaws are made while the above objectives are being met or while
manufacturing winding cones. The control of these flaws requires constant
observation and research. The majority of winding errors pose a serious threat to the
subsequent processes, such as warping, knitting, or doubling. Customers have
occasionally complained to us about yarn breaking during the unwinding procedure.
Removing any remaining hairiness and impurities involves using a blower linked to
the machine to remove them from the yarn while it is being winding.

PRECISION WINDING:
Precision Winding is the process of laying successive coils of yarn parallel to or nearly
parallel to one another. The maximum amount of yarn may be stored in a given volume
using this procedure to create incredibly dense packages.
 Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse
 Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages
 Package contains more yarn
 Package is less stable
 The package is hard and compact
The package is dense
Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of
Unwinding is hard
The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner.

NON - PRECISION WINDING

By using this method of winding, the package is made from a single thread that is laid on
it at a noticeable helix angle, causing the layers to cross and give the package stability.
This technique of winding results in less dense but more stable packages.
This package is made with just one coil.
Low package density, cross winding technique, and minimum amount of yarn
wound
The procedure is quick and simple, the package formed is supple and less compact,
the stability is excellent, flanges are not necessary, and the packages formed have
low density.
WINDING MACHINES (AUTO - GUNNER)

Machine name Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 Oerlikon Schlafhorst Autoconer X5

No. of ends 60 60
No. of machine 1 3
 WARPING

In order to create a parallel sheet of yarn coiled on to make a beam or section beam,
several yarns are transferred from a creel of single-end packages. All types of materials,
including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilament, textured and smooth
yarns, silk, and other synthetic yarns like glass, can be processed by warping machines.
Weaver beams are warp beams that are inserted on weaving machines. Since denim is
made from dyed yarn, a weaver beam that is obtained from warping is known as a
section beam. These section beams are then combined on the stage of dyeing and sizing
to obtain the necessary number of ends for the weaving process.
QUALITY OF A GOOD WARP
The following are the key characteristics of an effective warp:Strong enough and
consistently.In cross section, uniform.Warp tension that is constant.Equal in
size.Cleaner and less hairy.The bare minimum of knots.Appropriate or standard knot
sizes and varieties.Without nap, slubs, or loose fibres.Warp yarn is arranged in a parallel
pattern in the weaver's beam.
WRAP AND BEAM SECTIONS
Sectional wrapping entails winding a number of sections of wrapping, each wound with
a (thin) sheet with a predetermined number of ends of equal length placed side by side,
evenly spaced apart. The necessary number of ends for weaving is obtained after
gathering ends from every region. Beaming is the process of threading a sheet onto the
weaver's beam after gathering the ends from all the sections. Weaver's beam is the
product of this operation, which can then be transferred to a loom or used for drawing-
in.
CHARACTERISTICS OF SECTIONAL WARPING
Hand weaving used in sectional warping to create decorative fabric in various
colours.
To make weavers beams out of a tiny quantity of warp yarn.
to create twisted yarn weaver's beam.
To create weavers beams from which no sizing material needs to be applied prior to
weaving.
After that, a weaver's beam can be created.
Production is low, hence the process is expensive.
Yarn tension cannot be maintained consistently.
The drum or beam is tapered.
YARN BREAKAGE DURING WARPING CAN BE CAUSED BY
Weak yarn Free yarn.
Sloughing off. The pigtail.
Lapping over. Cut the yarn.
Knots or a poor splice. Bad-tipped cone.
Slubs. Tiny cone

SIZING
A similar procedure called sizing is performed on warps made of continuous filament
yarns with no twist or spun yarns with insufficient tenacity. Typically, when sizing is
required, the yarn is beam warped, so all of the beams that correspond to the beams are
supplied to the sizing machine where they are integrated as soon as warping is finished.
Sizing entails coating the yarn with specific compounds that create a film on its surface
in order to increase the smoothness and tenacity of the yarn during the next weaving
stage. It increases the tenacity and flexibility of the yarn, enabling it to withstand the
pressures and friction brought on by weaving without breaking down.
The sheet of yarn is coated with an adhesive made of starch during the sizing procedure
to increase its weaveability. It boosts yarn strength and decreases hairiness, which
lessens abrasion between adjacent warp threads and the various loom components as
well as between warp threads that are adjacent to one another.
Ankur typically purchases sizing chemicals from Refnol Resins & Chemicals in
Ahmedabad, Gujarat (Seycofilm, Seycobond, etc.).
SPECIFICATIONS OF SIZE INGREDIENTS:
During the wet processing procedure, it should be simple to remove.
It shouldn't affect the fibre or yarn in any way.
Adhesives should stick together better.
It ought to result in good fabric properties.
After sizing, it should be able to dry instantly.
It shouldn't shed or cause coloured yarn to alter colour.
It need to be affordable and accessible.

THE IMPORTANT FEATURES TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN SIZING:

If the yarn hairiness is high, the size concentration will also be high.
The concentration of the size would be large if the twist in the yarn was high.
The concentration of the size would be high if the yarn (finer) count was high.
The concentration of size would be low if the yarn (coarser) count was high.
The viscosity of the size would be lower and vice versa depending on the bath's
temperature.
The viscosity would be lower if the cooking time was extended.

EFFECTS OF SIZING ON YARN:

The effects of sizing on yarn depend on the yarn's composition, the sizing recipe, the
force applied by the squeezing roller, and the speed of the m/c.
The yarn stiffens as the size addition is increased.
The yarn becomes less flexible, making it more challenging to weave.
If a small addition, the yarn develops hairs.
The lack of strength in the yarn makes it weaker and more challenging to weave.

SIZING INGREDIENTS :
Starch.
Binder.
Softener.
Anti-septic agent.
Anti-static agent.
Weighting agent.

CHEMICALS & SIZING MATERIALS USED:

Starch - The primary element in sizing is starch. They add smoothness by tying the
protruding fibres to the yarn surface and coating the warp yarn with a layer. The
amount of starch, the recipe, the level of mechanical mixing, the temperature, and
the duration of boiling all affect how viscous the size solution is.For instance, potato,
CMS (Carboxy Methylated Starch), and PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)
Binder - Binder permeate the yarn and help to increase yarn strength. These
substances can be used as a standalone gum and starch product replacement. For
instance, polyacrylamide and polyacrylonetrile.
Softener - The addition of a softener softens the hard, brittle film. After size, they make
the yarn more flexible; examples include tallow, soap, Japanese wax, modified wax, and
artificial wax. Anti-septic agent: The recipe's starch and protein ingredients provide a
favourable environment for the growth of microorganisms (fungi, mould, etc.). The anti-
septic agent is used to stop the growth of microorganisms in the sized warp or grey
cloth, which is preserved for a long period.
Weighting agent - These substances are used to make a fabric heavier. The weighing
agent is used to scale the fabrics that need special finishing or are to be marketed in
their grey state.

TYPICAL SIZING RECIPE-

In 500 Liter Water
•Starch : 10-20%of water.
•Binder : 2-4% of water.
•Softener : 0.5-1% of water.
DRAWING-IN (REEDING)
Drawing in or reeding is the process of threading the warp threads one at a time through
the spaces between the dents of the reed. Drawing or denting is the process of weaving
warp threads through reed dents and heald eyes to create the desired pattern.
PROCEDURE:
In this phase, a beam that has been released from warping is brought.
As indicated in the draught by the Design department, warp ends are drawn through
the healed eyes of frames.
 Also concurrently pulled through the reed dents are the ends.
The yarn ends are knotted together to prevent entangling and removal from healed
eyes by placing them over serrated bars and placing drop pins on each individual end.
The entire assembly is placed on a trolley and transported to looms by beam getters
for gaiting by jobbers. This assembly consists of a beam, serrated bars with drop pins,
head frames and reed.
LOOM MACHINE

A loom is a device that weaves fabric from

threads. Utilising looms, fabric is woven. Both
hand and power are used to operate the looms.
Power-operated looms are referred to as
"powerlooms," whereas hand-operated looms
are referred to as "handlooms."

The majority of loom types contain a

mechanism that divides some of the warp
threads from the others. A shuttle carrying the
weft thread can pass through this gap, which is
known as the shed, perpendicular to the warp
threads.

Dobby attachments are available for all of the machines.

Every loom has a complete top-to-bottom attachment.
Each is a shuttle loom.
Specialty (Satin Weave, Plain Weave, Dobby Design, Butta Fabric)
Machine Name – Lakshmi Ruti C ( LRC )
Total number of machines = 36
All the machines operate at an average efficiency of 75%.
Each and every machine is outfitted with a 24 Jet Dobby.
180 cm width looms (70 inch) 150 cm width looms (59 inch)
24 machines 12 machines
180 RPM 196 RPM
 BASIC THREE TYPES OF WEAVING
Plain weave
Twill weave other weaves are the derivatives
Satin weave

MOTIONS OF LOOMS
PRIMARY MOTION SECONDARY MOTION TERTIARY MOTION

Shedding Take up Warp stop

Picking Let off Weft stop
Beating

PRIMARY MOTION
The three main loom movements in a weaving cycle are as follows.
Shedding: Shedding is the process of raising or lowering the warp threads to make
room for the weft direction.
Picking - Weft insertion is referred to as picking. It is a method for projecting the
weft through the shed.
Beating - Pushing a newly inserted pick against a piece of cloth is known as beating.
SHEDDING - Negative Dobby
PICKING - Low speed Shuttle[180 rpm]
BEATING - Straight reed mounted on sley.
BEATING - UP - The reciprocating red is responsible for pushing the pick into the fell of
the cloth for beat-up.
SECONDARY MOTION
Weaving involves three more movements.
Let-Off - By keeping the warp yarn under tension, the sheet may be managed. The
final breaking rate, warp and weft crimp ratios, and subsequently the fabric's width
and length, as well as its overall appearance and selvedge, are all influenced by the
amount of tension applied to the warp. The rotation of the beam will be restricted by
mechanisms to check if the warp is under the proper tension, either by (i) delivering
a braking force (negative let-off) or (ii) by driving the beam through a mechanism
(automatic let-off).
Take-Up
Cloth is taken up from the fall and placed at the front of the loom during the cloth
take-up process.
Following the cloth's departure from the autumn, there are three ways to regulate it:
1. When holding the cloth appropriately directly in front of the fall, the temples—two
cloth control guides—at either side of the loom are crucial.
2. The take up roller's rotational speed affects the pick density.
3. The fabric must then be kept at the loom until it has been woven to the required
length.
ANCILLARY MOTION
The ancillary motions include: Warp Stop Motion, which stops the loom when an end
break causes a drop wire to fall.
When the weft yarn breaks, the weft stop motion feature stops the loom.
 GREIGE INSPECTION

Unfinished fabric that exits a loom or knitting machine and hasn't been entirely
bleached or coloured is referred to as greige or grey fabric. Raw fabric is another name
for it. Greige fabric flaws are imperfections that develop during the knitting or weaving
processes. These flaws range in size from minor to significant. While the major flaws are
obviously observable, the minor ones might not even be noticeable.
Numerous flaws can be detected by inspecting the greige fabric and providing feedback
to the weaving division. It's crucial to guarantee the correctness and dependability of
the inspection results.

Greige Fabric Inspection Procedure

Pick one of the fabric rolls or the reports that the inspectors in the greige area
randomly inspected.
Remove the relevant fabric roll and report, then inspect all the rolls you chose.
Verify the greige width, length of the roll, EPI, and PPI.
Cross-check it with the inspection report.
Examine any flaws the inspector may have missed and confirm the veracity of their
recording.
If a noticeable difference is discovered, contact the relevant inspector and the
supervisor, officer, or manager of the grey inspection, and re-examine the cloth to
show them what was overlooked.
Observe the inspector and assess whether his abilities are adequate or need to be
enhanced.
Compile the audit results inspector-by-inspector.

Grey or Greige Fabric Faults/Defects, Causes and Their Remedy

Defects Causes Remedies

Problem for hole Broken needle head Change the needle

Problem for missing Missing of one end of Careful observation and instant
yarn double yarn machine stop when fault found
Problem for needle line Bent needle latch Replace the needle

Problem for thick thin Replace the yarn cone to a more

Yarn fault
yarn uniform yarn cone
 Replace the yarn cone to a more
Problem for slubs Yarn fault
uniform yarn cone
Needle failed to receive the
Problem for drop
yarn while knitting, needle Reset the needle
needle
missing

Adjust the take down tension or

Problem for Barrie Irregular tension of take
synchronize the take down
mark / patta down roller
speed with knitting.

Due to missing stitches or

Problem for pin hole Concentrate on needle and latch
loops

Problem for oil line Improper lubrication Proper lubrication

Fly coming from the Separate one machine from

Problem for fly contact
adjacent machine other

Dirty machine and Proper lubrication and clean

Problem for oil stain
improper handling of fabric machine

GREIGE FOLDING
After a grayscale inspection, the fabric is folded for a further operation. One metre of
fabric is folded in half. The fabric is then delivered to the sewing department, where the
required stitching is completed.
8 inspection tables total.
6 folding machines total.
Jainspns Direction Line, Motor Starter is the brand. Submitted by Om Hasti MFRS.

ARROW SPOT GUN

To produce decontamination effects, high-pressure liquid

spraying is employed. It is frequently used to remove
stains and grease marks from fabric, clothes, printing, and
dyeing.This gun consist of white petrol which helps in
removing the stain. There are 3 guns are present.
 DEFECTS IDENTIFIED WHILE GREIGE INSPECTION

1. SLUB
2. LONG SLUB
3. HALKA BHARE
4. KNOT
5. COLOR CONTAMINATION / COLOR FIBER
6. BEAM DAGHI
7. BALL FORMATION
8. REED MARK
9. CHIRA
10. DOUBLE END
11. WRONG DENTING
12. WRONG DRAWING
13. TEMPLE MARK
14. TEMPLE ABRASION
15. TEMPLE CUT
16. ZIRKI
17. PATTI
18. SORT PICK
19. DOUBLE PICK
20. LOOSE END
21. LOOSE PICK / FURKI
22. FLOAT
23. DAGHI
24. WEFT CUT
25. WRONG PICK INSERT/KOKDI
26. BED SELVEDGE / LOOSE BINDING
27. DOBBY LINE
28. DISTORTION
DEFECTS IDENTIFIED WHILE GREIGE INSPECTION
 PRE-PROCESSING

Pre-processing refers to a set of preliminary treatments or preparatory steps carried out

on the fabrics before they undergo further processing. These pre-processing stages are
essential to ensure that the materials are ready for subsequent operations and to
achieve desired outcomes in terms of quality, appearance, and functionality.
The company predominantly utilizes two types of fabric, with a focus on cotton, which
undergoes pre-processing steps such as singeing, scouring, desizing, and optional
processes like bleaching or mercerization.

STEPS INVOLVED IN PRE-PROCESSING

SINGEING
Singeing is a textile finishing process that involves burning off the protruding fibers on
the surface of the fabric using controlled flame or heat. The purpose of singeing is to
remove loose fibers, fuzz, or hairiness from the fabric, resulting in a smoother and more
uniform surface. It helps to enhance the fabric's appearance, improve its dye uptake
during subsequent dyeing processes, and reduce pilling.
Gas singeing is a textile finishing process that involves the use of controlled flames or
gas burners to remove protruding fibers from the surface of the greige fabric. Here is an
explanation of the process:
Setup: In gas singeing, the greige fabric is typically fed into a singeing machine. The
machine consists of a series of burners or nozzles arranged in a specific pattern.
Fabric Insertion: The greige fabric is inserted at one end of the singeing machine. It
passes through the machine at a controlled speed.
Gas Burners: As the fabric moves through the machine, gas burners or nozzles emit
flames or a mixture of gas and air, creating a controlled flame curtain or flame jets.
Singeing: The fabric passes over or through the flame curtain or jets. The flames
burn off the protruding fibers on the fabric's surface.
 Exhaust System: The singeing machine is equipped with an exhaust system to
remove the smoke and fumes produced during the singeing process.
Cooling: After singeing, the fabric may undergo cooling to reduce its temperature
and prevent any potential damage or deformation caused by heat.
Gas singeing is an effective method for removing surface fuzz and loose fibers from
greige fabric. It helps to create a smoother surface, enhance the fabric's appearance, and
improve subsequent processing steps like printing and dyeing. The singeing process
requires careful control of flame intensity, speed, and fabric tension to ensure uniform
singeing across the fabric.

DESIZING
Desizing is a process in the textile industry that involves the removal of sizing agents
applied to the warp yarns during the weaving process. Sizing agents, such as starches,
waxes, or synthetic polymers, are applied to the yarns to improve their handling
characteristics, protect against breakage, and enhance weaving efficiency. However,
these sizing agents need to be removed before further processing or finishing.
DESIZING TYPICALLY INVOLVES THE FOLLOWING STEPS:
Wetting: The fabric is wetted using water or a desizing solution to prepare it for the
desizing process. This helps to loosen and dissolve the sizing agents. The
temperature is kept at 70-80 degree Celsius
Chemical Treatment: Desizing agents, such as enzymes or chemicals, are applied to
the fabric to break down and remove the sizing compounds. Enzymatic desizing
agents are commonly used as they can selectively target specific sizing agents
without damaging the fabric. It is necessary to make sure the PH of bath doesn't
exceeds 5-6 in nature
Mechanical Action: Agitation, such as stirring or squeezing, is applied to enhance the
desizing process. It helps to accelerate the action of desizing agents and improve the
removal of sizing compounds from the fabric.
Rinse: After the desizing process, the fabric is thoroughly rinsed to remove any
residual desizing agents, as well as dissolved sizing compounds. This step ensures
that the fabric is free from any unwanted chemicals or residues.
cRemoving the sizing agents allows for better dye penetration, improved print
clarity, and enhanced fabric performance. Additionally, desizing helps to prepare the
fabric for subsequent processes by ensuring its cleanliness and removing any
potential obstacles to achieving desired outcomes.
It's worth noting that the specific desizing methods and agents used can vary depending
on the type of sizing agents applied, fabric type, and manufacturing requirements.
 SCOURING

Scouring is a textile pre-processing step that involves the removal of impurities, such as
dirt, oils, waxes, natural substances, and residual chemicals, from the fabric. The
purpose of scouring is to clean the fabric thoroughly and prepare it for subsequent
processing, such as dyeing, printing, or finishing.
Wetting: The fabric is soaked in water or a scouring solution to ensure proper
penetration and wetting of the fibers.
Alkali Treatment: An alkaline solution, often containing sodium hydroxide or caustic
soda, is applied to the fabric. This alkaline treatment helps to remove natural waxes,
oils, and other organic impurities.
Temperature and Time Control: The fabric is heated to an appropriate temperature
and maintained for a specific duration to facilitate the breakdown and removal of
impurities. The temperature and time can vary depending on the fabric type and the
nature of the impurities being removed.
Rinse: After scouring, the fabric is thoroughly rinsed to remove residual alkali,
impurities, and any loosened debris. Rinsing helps to ensure that the fabric is clean
and free from any unwanted chemicals.
Scouring is an important step in textile processing as it improves the fabric's
absorbency, removes impurities that could interfere with subsequent processes, and
prepares the fabric for dyeing or finishing. It helps to achieve better color penetration,
even dye distribution, and improved overall fabric quality.
 MERCERISATION

Mercerization is a textile finishing process that involves treating cotton fabric or yarn
with a caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) solution to improve its physical and chemical
properties. The process is named after John Mercer, the chemist who discovered it in the
19th century.

During mercerization, the cotton fabric or yarn is typically immersed in a concentrated

caustic soda solution and then neutralized with an acid solution. The process causes the
cotton fibers to swell, resulting in several beneficial effects:
Increased Luster: Mercerization enhances the fabric's sheen and luster, giving it a
more attractive appearance.
Improved Strength: The process increases the fabric's tensile strength, making it
more durable and less prone to tearing or breaking.
Enhanced Dye Affinity: Mercerized cotton has a higher affinity for dyes, allowing for
better dye absorption and improved color intensity and fastness.
Reduced Shrinkage: Mercerization reduces the fabric's tendency to shrink during
subsequent washing or finishing processes.
Greater Dimensional Stability: Mercerized cotton exhibits improved dimensional
stability, meaning it is less likely to stretch or deform during use or care.
Increased Absorbency: Mercerized cotton fabric has increased absorbency, making it
suitable for applications such as towels, bed sheets, and absorbent textiles.
Mercerization is mainly performed on cotton fabric and yarn, as the cellulose structure
of cotton fibers reacts with caustic soda. The process can be adjusted to achieve
different levels of mercerization and tailor the desired properties of the fabric.

The mercerization process involves several steps to achieve the desired effects on cotton
fabric or yarn. Here are the typical steps involved in mercerization:
Preparation: The fabric or yarn is prepared by winding it onto rolls or bobbins,
ensuring it is ready for immersion in the mercerizing solution.
Impregnation: The fabric or yarn is immersed in a concentrated caustic soda
(sodium hydroxide) solution via impregnation tanks(IPs). The concentration and
temperature of the solution may vary depending on the desired level of
mercerization and the fabric or yarn type. Here the solution ratio is 280-300 GPL.
Immersion Time: The fabric or yarn remains in the caustic soda solution for a
specific period again in recubator with 60 GPL of soda, allowing the chemical
reaction to occur. The duration depends on factors such as the fabric thickness and
the desired level of mercerization.
Washing: After the desired immersion time, the fabric or yarn is thoroughly rinsed
with water at 90 degree Celsius to remove excess caustic soda solution. This washing
step is crucial to neutralize and remove any remaining alkali from the material.
 BLEACHING

Bleaching is a textile processing method that involves the removal or reduction of color
from fabric, resulting in a lighter or white appearance. The purpose of bleaching is to
remove natural or artificial colorants, stains, or impurities present in the fabric. It
prepares the fabric for subsequent dyeing, printing, or finishing processes, or simply to
achieve a desired aesthetic.
The bleaching process typically involves the following steps:
Pre-Treatment: The fabric is usually pre-treated to remove any sizing agents, oils, or
other substances that could interfere with the bleaching process. This step may
include processes such as scouring or desizing.
Bleaching Agent Application: A bleaching agent or mixture is applied to the fabric.
The choice of bleaching agent depends on the fabric type, desired degree of
bleaching, and the type of colorant or impurity to be removed. Common bleaching
agents include hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite, or chlorine dioxide.
Chemical Reaction: The bleaching agent reacts with the colorants or impurities in
the fabric, breaking down their chemical structure and rendering them colorless or
less visible. This reaction may involve oxidation or reduction processes, depending
on the specific bleaching agent used.
Time and Temperature Control: The fabric is maintained at a specific temperature of
90 degree Celsius for a defined duration to ensure effective bleaching. The optimal
temperature and time vary depending on the fabric type, bleaching agent, and
desired results, we have taken cotton into account here.
Rinse and Neutralization: After the bleaching process, the fabric is thoroughly rinsed
with water to remove the bleaching agent and any remaining colorants or
impurities. A neutralizing agent such as acetic acid may be applied to halt the
bleaching reaction and restore the fabric's pH balance.
It is essential to carefully control the bleaching process to avoid damage to the fabric or
undesirable effects.
Bleaching plays a crucial role in achieving consistent and vibrant colors during dyeing or
printing processes. It also helps in maintaining cleanliness and removing stains,
improving the overall aesthetic appeal of the fabric.
While we have already outlined the fundamental pre-processing treatment of greige
fabric, let us now delve into the sequential flow process of the fabric received after
inspection.

GREIGE FABRIC RECIEVED

LIGHT WEIGHT FABRIC HEAVY WEIGHT FABRIC

(JUMBO JET)

SINGEING (JIGGER) SINGEING

DESIZING DESIZING

SCOURING SCOURING

(MERCERISATION
MACHINE)

BLEACHING MERCERISING

(MERCERISATION
MACHINE) (JIGGER)

MERCERISING BLEACHING
 MACHINE OVERVIEW

PARAMETERS COMBY JIGGER JUMBO JET SOFTFLOW

QUANTITY 16 2 1
CAPACITY (m) 5000 3000 5000

FABRIC HEAVY WEIGHT LIGHT WEIGHT VISCOSE

DESIZING DESIZING
DESIZING SCOURING
OPERATION SCOURING SCOURING
BLEACHING
BLEACHING BLEACHING

SPEED 65 rpm 45min-2hr cycle 30-60min cycle

M-TEX
BRAND DEVREKHA KRISHNA
VINTEX

PARAMETERS SINGEING MERCESRISING ROPE OPENER STENTER

QUANTITY 1 2 3 7

CAPACITY (m) 25,000 15,000 18,000 15,000

To untangle the
OPERATION for gas singeing For mercerisation fabric ropes To dry the fabric
after jumbo jet
SPEED 30rpm 30rpm 50rpm 30rpm

BRAND Osthoff Mather+platt krishna eng. Motex

 DYEING

Applying dyes or pigments to textile materials including fibres, yarns, and fabrics in
order to get the desired colour and colour fastness is known as dyeing. Typically, dyeing
is carried out in a customised solution combining dyes and a specific chemical
substance.
 DYEING PROCESS

The dyeing typically uses reactive dyes, vat dyes, sulphur dyes for cotton, and disperse
dyes for polyester. Reactive dyes and vat dyes are frequently used for cotton fabrics.
The following manufacturers produce these dyes:
M. ghmani Dyes Reactive Dyes
Bhanu Dyes' Sulphur Dyes
Atul Dyes' Vat Dyes
Colortex Dyes Disperse Dyes.

100% POLYSTER Disperse Dyeing method is used.

POLY COTTON

100% COTTON
100% VISCOUS
Recative Dyeing method is used.
COTTON VISCOUS
COTTON REYON

PADDING MANGLE

Using a pad mangle, a fabric can be

dried out or impregnated with dyes,
chemicals, or other unique fabric
performance finishes.
The process absorbs 60 to 70% of the
dye into the fabric
Making it better for later uses.

About the machine :

A prepared dyeing mixture is added
to the container in which the fabric
is passed.
The machine's drums (rollers) are
composed of pressure.
 CONTINUOUS PADDING BATCH
CPB is a semi-continuous technique that involves padding the cloth with dye liquor and the
appropriate alkali [for reaction and fixing] using a padding mangle. The roll is promptly wound
and wrapped after padding.It is then batched or rotated continuously for 6–24 hours.

75% Dye+ 25% Soda is mixed and fabric is passed through that.
Specified batched or rotated according to the weight of the fabric :
Light weight = 8 hours
Medium weight = 8 - 12 hours
Heavy weight. = 12 - 24 hours
This rotation is done for colour fixing (without salt)
Here Dye Bath Temp around 20-25°C
 REACTIVE DYEING PROCDURE
Machine used - Jigger
Capacity - 100 kg and 500 kg
1. Load the roll of fabric that have been passed from padding machine or came after
bleaching (depands on quality)
2. The dye mixture is then poured into the jigger tub, takes 2 turns at 60*c
3. Then fabric is washed with salted water which is a exhausting agent, take 4 turns at
80*c. The salt is mix according to the weight of fabric :
Light weight fabric - 4 kg
Medium weight fabric - 6 kg
Heavy weight fabric - 8 kg
4. Then fabric is passed through the soda ( sodium carbonate) for colour fixing, it takes
6 turns for the process. The ratio of the soda depends upon the shade of the fabric :
Light shade fabric - 1 l
Medium shade fabric - 2 l
Dark shade fabric - 2.5 l
5. Then the sample is taken out from the roll and texted, if it got the perfect shade or
not. If the shade is correct then it goes to next step else again passes through the dye
mixture.
6. After colour confirmation the fabric is washed with the normal water, takes 2 ts.
7. Then the fabric is turned 2 times with acitic acid (2 gpl).
8. The fabric is then treated with cationic softener for 2 turns.
9. Next the fabric is passed through hot wash and cold wash.
10. The fabric is dried after all the process.
11. Then the fabric is ready for going to the finishing department.
 CARBONIZATION

This procedure is used to create 100% polyester fabric since it is not possible to create
100% polyester fabric through the weaving process. Instead, a polyester-cellulosic blend
is created first, and the cellulosic element of the blend is subsequently removed using
the carbonization process. This procedure is especially delicious for the TIP- TOP brand
of blouse material.
Machine: Carbonizing Jigger Machine
Capacity: 500 kg
Chemical: 20 g/l of soda ash with 70% H2S04 content
Duration: 4 hours
Process:
1. On a jigger m/c, 1000 metres of fabric are taken and carbonised.
2. In one hour, 4 rounds of concentrated H2SO4 are delivered.
3. The fabric is given a soda ash wash and washed for an hour (4 rotations).
4. Once more, the fabric is washed for 1 hour (4 cycles).
 DISPERSE DYEING PROCDURE
Machine used -Jambo Jet
Capacity - 100 kg
No. of machine - 7
1. Put the fabric in the machine in rope from for the process.
2. At 30*c dye the fabric for 20 - 45 mins depending on the shade of the fabric.
3. Then drain the remaining dyeing mixture and wash the fabric with normal water.
4. After that put the RC reduction cleaning (Caustic and Hydros) with the fabric at
70*c for 10 - 20 mins depending upon the quality of the fabric.
5. Wash the once again with normal water and take it out in the form of rope only.
 DRYING MANGLE
Cylinder drying ranges are one of the most basic but crucial pieces of equipment in a
textile processing facility. The cylinders can be mounted in stacks of 6 to 24 cylinders,
and a range can be created with one, two, three, or more stacks. High speed drying
ranges are typically equipped with a flat belt, chain, or sprocket drive to the individual
cylinder, or with an AC inverter controlled drive.
In Ankur mills, there is 8 cylinder drying mangle which consist of hot steam, when fabric
is passed through them, they get dried because of that steam pressure.
 Optical Brightening process (OBA)

This method is provided to make fabric completely white.

Physical bleaching agents are optical brightening agents.
By absorbing ultra violet rays of light and transferring them into the blue violet
spectrum, OBA makes fabric more reflective and gives it a pure white appearance. There
are two ways to do this.
1. Exhaustion technique
2. Padding approach
 PRINITNG

The process of adding colour to fabric in specific patterns or designs is known as textile
printing. The colour is linked to the fibre in correctly printed fabrics, making them
resistant to washing and rubbing. Textile printing and dyeing are linked, but in dyeing
properly, the cloth is covered with a single colour throughout, but in printing, one or
more colours are given to it only in specific locations and in clearly defined patterns.
 DESIGN STUDIO

The purpose of the design studio is to create and validate the sample for a certain
printing design. If the sample is approved by the customer, then final screens will be
produced for the design's mass production.
Methods of design brief:
Sample-based designs: where the buyer provides a sample for a certain design and
the designer manipulates the colours in photoshop.
Design brief: The customer provides the design brief, such as what types of shapes or
flowers should be included. they provide references based on personal preference
and hue.
In-house manufacture: Each year, they design their own product for in-house
production.
Print strike-off, sometimes referred to as strike-off, is the specimen or swatch that is
provided to the buyer for approval of the print colours. Suppliers create these strike-offs
from a printer (printing house) during sample development or before production
printing. Actual production fabric and actual base colour are utilised for strike-off
sample printing. Supplier internally matches print design colours in a light box before
submitting strike-offs, similar to the lab dip clearance process.
According to the artwork size, the print design is printed on fabric in its exact size.

TYPES OF PRINTING (STRIKE - OFF)

SCREEN PRINTING DIGITAL PRINTING

Machine name : Ink jet flat bed exposing Machine name : ATexco VEGA
machine 8180DI
Screen cloth : Nylon bolting cloth No. of heads : 32
No. of machine : 1 No. of machine : 1
Frame dimension : 30*30 or 60*30 Blanket dimension : 650*180 cm
Mesh used : 200 (highest), 160 - 120 Ink used : ATexco Reactive ink
(usually) Software : NEO Stampa delta
Coating used for screen : Blue coating Blanket gum used : Euro,
999 FinestoDG, Sodium bicarbonate
Pigment used : PIDI Lite
Reactive : JKO
 SAMPLING PROCESS (SCREEN PRINTING)

Initial process of Screen printing requires frame Making, Below mentioned are the steps
taken to build frame for further screen printing process.
1. Attaching mesh made of nylon bolting cloth to the frame. Baby formal stitching
machine is the tool utilised. 30x30 and 60x30 frame measurements.
2. Treating the prepared frame with 999 blue coating for screen printing.
3. Then the design is made in the screen from "Ink jet flat bed machine".
4. The number of screen for a particular design depend upon the number of colour in a
design.
5. After making the design the screen is exposed in heavy light to get the non exposed
part get solid.
6. With the help of water gun (which consist of water and air) the exposer is done.
7. The black ink is removed after that and screen get prepared for the screen printing.
8. After the approval of the design then the same design is generated with the rotary
screen for the mass production.

MASS PRODUCTION (ROTARY SCREEN)

Rotary screen printing is a continuous printing technique that uses a perforated

cylindrical screen to apply a pigment or dye-based colourant. The colourant is pressed
onto the fabric from the cylindrical screen's inside. A squeegee device inside the
perforated cylinder (or spherical screen) forces the dye through the screen and onto the
cloth as it rotates. A unique pump automatically feeds a paste into the perforated
cylinder (or spherical screen). As many as 16 different colours can be applied to each
screen, which is separately operated.
Screen is made up of Nickel and steel.
Dimension of rollers : 640*1780 mm, 819*1780 mm, 914*1780 mm.
Mesh used : 125, 155, 165, 195, 80 (zari).
 ROTARY SCREEN (ENGRAVING PROCESS)

UNPACKING

ROUNDING (1 hr, 180℃ )

DEGREASING

DRYING

COATING

DRYING

POLYMERISING (2 hrs, 180℃)

LASER ENGRAVING

CHECKING AND TOUCHING

ENDRING FIXING

UNPACKING

Unpacking the screens is the first step in preparing

them for engraving. Screens are typically delivered in
bean-shaped packaging, from which they must be
carefully removed without causing a dent. Screens
should not be maintained in boxes for longer than a
year as this could interfere with the rounding process.
Additionally, no more than four screens should be kept
together as this could result in major issues due to the
weight of the screens. When removing a screen from
its packing, consideration is given to its
measurements, and we ensure that the displays are
more rounded than square.
 ROUNDING & POLYMERISING

Rounding rings are used to shape screens into a

sphere. Rounding rings are placed on both sides of
the screen before the screens are placed in the
polymerization chamber. Screen polymerization
takes place at temperatures between 180 and 200
°C. Rounding rings are removed from the screen
after polymerization. Screens that are boxed up
have a little greater size than usual. Screens are
placed over a stand after polymerization before
being scissor-cut to their original size. After that,
the screen's two ends are taped with the aid of
paper tape in order to prevent handling stains
from showing up on the screen during coating.
Machine name : Polymerizer RSE 3511
Temperature : 180℃
No. of machine : 1
Rounding time : 1 hr
Polymerising : 2 hrs
DEGREASING
SCR 35 emulsion is used to degrease the screen in order to provide an equal coating
throughout. The ratio is maintained at 1:4, or 4 times as much water as emulsion. Five to
ten minutes are permitted. An emulsion is always made using soft water.

COATING
The screen meshes are typically sealed using the coating
procedure. Cones with plates carrying coating material
that gently descends only one are used to hold the
screens.
There are 2 types of coating -
1. Double Suji Coating
This ia done without water
1 kg euro gel - 3035(photoemulation) + 50 ml sanitizer
10 - 15 mins
2. Single Suji Coating
This is done with water
1 kg euro gel - 3035 + 50 ml sanitizer + 150 ml water
 LASER ENGRAVING

A digital tool for engraving from a computer to a screen is a rotary inkjet engraver. This
printing method uses a unique ink to coat the nickel screen directly with the design
before curing the resin with UV light. It saves on the expense of the film compared to a
traditional engraver.
Machine used : SPGprints laser screen
 STRIPER MACHIINE
A high-tech device in which a laser beam from a laser source is focused on a screen,
burning the lacquer/coating of the photo emulsion on the surface of the screen, and a
suction unit removes the lacquer/coating's ash. The operation of the laser stripping
machine is identical to that of the laser engraving machine. The sole distinction is that in
stripping, the entire screen is stripped, but in engraving, lacquer is just taken from the
necessary specific locations.
Machine name : EMBEE laser screen stripping machine
Screen length: Standard up to 2000 mm, Customized up to 3700 mm
Repeats: 640 repeat
Stripping time: 20 minutes / screen [up to 50 screens a day]
Stripping speed: 640 cm2 / minute
Power requirements: 10 kW
Suitable for 640 mm, 819 mm, 914 mm, 1018 mm repeats
 REACTIVE PRINT PROCESS

RFD/ FW/ Dyed Fabric

PRINTING

DRYING (140℃ - 150℃ )

AGENING (102 - 104℃, For 10 - 12 mins)

WASHING (90 - 95℃) PIGMENT PRINT PROCESS

RFD/ FW/ Dyed Fabric

FASTNESS TESTING (QA)

PRINTING

DISCHARGE PRINT PROCESS DRYING (140℃ - 150℃ )

RFD/ FW/ Dyed Fabric CURING (102 - 104℃, For 5 - 6 mins)

PRINTING FASTNESS TESTING (QA)

DRYING (120℃ - 130℃ )

AGENING (102 - 104℃, For 8 - 9 mins)

CURING (150 - 160℃)

WASHING (90 - 95℃)

FASTNESS TESTING (QA)

 ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

Rotary screen printing is a continuous printing technique that uses a perforated

cylindrical screen to apply a pigment or dye-based colourant. The colourant is pressed
onto the fabric from the cylindrical screen's inside. A squeegee device inside the
perforated cylinder (or spherical screen) forces the dye through the screen and onto the
cloth as it rotates. A unique pump automatically feeds a paste into the perforated
cylinder (or spherical screen). Up to 16 different colours can be applied to each screen,
which is separately powered.
Machine name: Zimmer rotascreen
Working width: 165 / 185 / 225 / 250 / 285 / 330 cm
Number of printing stations: up to 24
Repeat size adjustment: from 64 cm to 102 cm
Printing head: closed bearing printing head
Printing speed: up to 120 meters per minute
Colour pipes: RG-S1-ST-ECO roll squeegee; Variocolor magnet blade squeegee
Squeegee holding devices: RH-ECO-G, RH-M Air-Flow, RH-M-ASG
Control System: ACR-5
 AGEING MACHINE
Ageing also known as Stoving, Hanging, or Ageing is a type of post-processing procedure
for some printed textile materials in which the products are exposed to a warm, humid
environment. A more sophisticated method to achieve the desired effects is steaming.
Ankur generates the steam needed by burning coal.Reactive, Pigment and Pigment
Discharge all are developed here, the majority of reactive prints require it.
Machine used : Texfab - Surat
Type – Ageing or loop ager
Capacity – 220-meter fabric
Temperature – 102 - 104 ℃
Pressure – 35 PSI
Steam Flow – 750 kg/ hr

CURING MACHINE

Even though it's one of the final phases in the screen printing process, curing your prints
is one of the most crucial ones. In order for the ink to adhere to the fabric, it must be
thoroughly cured. The ink will crack, break apart, and not last for very long if it does not
fully cure.
The majority of pigment prints go through this procedure.Its primary objective is to
polymerize the pigment prints on the fibre.
Machine used : Texfab - Surat
Capacity – 220-meter fabric
Temperature – 140 - 150 ℃
 WASHING MACHINE
After printing, ageing, curing, and washing processes are used to get rid of extra colour.
In this procedure, a bath of Acetic Acid and Soap (Decol FBSN) heated to 70 to 95 degrees
Celsius is run through the fabric.
Machine used : Texfab - Surat
Type – Soaper
Speed – 70 metre (white) / 40 metre (print)
No. of chambers : !0 chambers washing unit
Process -
1. The fabric is transformed into a rope before being applied to overhead tanks.
2. Here, it is cleaned with water and soap.
3. It is rinsed in four tanks before going down to the rope opener.
4. After being opened, the fabric is then moved on to the dryer.
5. The fabric is dried on heated rollers in the dryer.
6. After that, it is loaded onto a cart and moved on to inspection and packaging.

Feed the fabric

Cold Water Wash

Green acid wash (if required)

Cold Water Wash

Soaping (depends in GLM, 80 - 90 ℃)

Hot Water Wash

Normal Water Wash

Passing through VDR

 DIGITAL PRINTING MACHINE

Using a large size digital printing device, sometimes known as an ink-jet printer, digital
printing on fabric is a novel and creative approach that involves printing a design, a
pattern, or an image directly from the computer onto the desired substrate.
Machine name : ATexco VEGA 8180DI (Made in China)
No. of heads : 32
No. of Colour Stored : 8
No. of machine : 1
Blanket dimension : 650*180 cm
Ink used : ATexco Reactive ink
Software : NEO Stampa delta
Blanket gum used : Euro, FinestoDG, Sodium bicarbonate
Process Types :
1. Two pass (330m/hr)
2. Three pass (150 m/hr)
3. Four pass (100 m/hr)
 FINISHING

Finishing in textiles refers to the processes that are applied to fabric or garments after
they have been manufactured, to improve their appearance, performance, or
functionality. It involves various treatments, techniques, and applications that modify
the properties of the textile material to meet specific requirements.

Mechanical finishing involves physical treatments applied to fabrics to modify their

appearance or texture. Whereas chemical finishing involves the application of chemical
agents to alter the properties of the fabric.
 CHEMICAL FINISHES

While there are numerous chemical finishes available for textiles, Ankur Textiles
primarily utilizes the following commonly used chemical finishes to enhance their
fabrics:

Soft Finish: Soft finish involves the application of chemical softeners to improve the
fabric's softness and hand feel. These softeners, such as silicone or cationic agents,
reduce friction and create a smooth, gentle texture, enhancing comfort and luxury.
Stiff Finish: Stiff finish applies chemicals to increase fabric rigidity and stiffness. This
finish is common in shirt collars and cuffs to provide structure and shape, giving a
crisp and formal appearance.
Perfume Finish: Perfume finish adds a pleasant scent to the fabric by applying
fragrant chemicals. It enhances the sensory experience, leaving a fresh aroma on the
textile.
Flame Retardant: Flame retardant finishes involve chemicals that reduce fabric
flammability, slowing down flame spread. These finishes enhance safety in
applications requiring fire resistance, such as protective clothing or furnishings.
Flame Proof: Flame-proof finishes provide a higher level of fire resistance by
employing specialized chemicals. They are used in environments where strict
fireproofing is necessary, offering enhanced protection against flames and heat.
Water Repellent: Water-repellent finishes use chemical treatments to make fabrics
resistant to water penetration. These finishes repel water droplets, preventing
moisture absorption, and keeping the fabric dry and protected.
Soil Release: Soil release finishes employ chemicals that enable fabrics to release dirt
and stains easily during washing. These finishes enhance the fabric's cleanability,
making it easier to remove soil, maintaining a fresh and clean appearance.
Resin Finish: Resin finishes involve the application of resin-based chemicals to
enhance fabric strength, durability, and crease resistance. This finish improves the
fabric's performance, making it suitable for applications where increased sturdiness
and longevity are required.
 COURSE OF ACTION FOLLOWED

The application procedure for applying finishes to textiles follows the aforementioned
steps, including preparation, application of selected chemical finishes, and subsequent
curing or drying processes.
Fabric Preparation: The fabric is inspected, pre-treated, and prepared by processes
such as cleaning, scouring, and bleaching to remove any impurities or contaminants.
Application of Chemical Finish: The selected chemical finish is prepared according to
the manufacturer's instructions. The stenter machine is set up with the necessary
equipment and controls for chemical application.
Padding: The fabric is fed into the stenter machine, where it passes through a
padding bath containing the chemical finish solution. The padding rollers ensure an
even and controlled application of the finish onto the fabric.
Drying: After the padding process, the fabric enters a drying chamber within the
stenter machine. Hot air is circulated through the chamber at 100-200 degree
Celsius depending upon fabric, evaporating the excess moisture from the fabric and
facilitating the chemical reaction of the finish.
Curing: In some cases, the fabric may require a curing step to activate and fix the
chemical finish. The fabric passes through a heated zone in the stenter machine,
where it is exposed to a controlled temperature for a specific period. This allows the
chemical finish to bond with the fabric fibers and achieve the desired properties.
Heat Setting: Depending on the requirements of the chemical finish, the fabric may
undergo a heat setting process. This involves subjecting the fabric to controlled heat
and tension, typically with the help of clips or pins in the stenter machine. Heat
setting helps stabilize the fabric structure, preventing shrinkage and ensuring the
finish remains intact.
Cooling and Inspection: After the heat setting, the fabric is cooled down to room
temperature within the stenter machine. It then passes through an inspection area
where the fabric is examined for any defects or irregularities in the chemical finish.
 MACHINE OVERVIEW

STENTER MACHINE
A stenter machine is a textile processing machine used in various stages of textile
production, including chemical finishing. It plays a crucial role in ensuring the effective
application and processing of chemical finishes. It works on the principle of Thermic
fluid heating system based on the circulation of a heat transfer fluid, also known as
thermic fluid or thermal oil, to transfer heat energy from a heat source to the desired
application.
The machine also helps maintain proper tension on the fabric during the finishing
process, preventing fabric shrinkage and distortion, and ensuring dimensional stability.
Additionally, the stenter machine allows for cooling and inspection of the fabric,
ensuring high-quality standards are met. Overall, the stenter machine is a critical
component in chemical finishing, enabling consistent application, efficient drying, and
optimal dimensional stability of the fabric.

POINTS TO BE NOTED

There are 7 stenter machines.

These are manufactured by Motex.
This machine can process over 60,000 meters a day.
The stenter has sections joined together called Chambers. There are 4
machines with 6 chambers, 2 machines with 5 chambers and 1 machine
with 8 chambers.

Controlling parameters during the finishing process is necessary to ensure the desired
quality and performance of the finished textile product. By carefully managing these
parameters, manufacturers can meet customer requirements, improve durability,
enhance comfort, prevent undesirable changes in fabric dimensions, and maintain the
appearance and functionality of the fabric. Proper control of these parameters ensures
consistent and reliable product outcomes.
Some of the parameters that are noted while finishing are:
width of fabric
shrinkage
washing fastness
rubbing fastness
tear strength
tensile strength
anti pilling
skew and bow
The finishing department controls parameters while applying chemicals through several
methods and processes. Here are some common practices:
Following Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs)
Accurate formulation of chemical solutions
Conducting quality control testing during and after application
Optimizing process parameters such as temperature and pressure
Calibration and maintenance of equipment
Training and skill development of personnel.

MECHANICAL FINISHES

Mechanical finish refers to the processes and treatments applied to textiles using
mechanical means, such as physical manipulation or alteration of the fabric structure, to
enhance certain properties or create specific effects. Unlike chemical finishes, which
involve the use of chemicals, mechanical finishes do not typically involve the application
of additional substances.

There are numerous types of mechanical finishes available, but in Ankur Textiles, we
primarily focus on two favored mechanical finishes that are widely used to enhance our
textile products. Below mentioned are the two types of process used.
 CALANDERING

Calendering is a mechanical finishing process used in the textile industry to enhance

fabric properties such as smoothness, luster, and uniformity. It involves passing the
fabric between heavy rollers under controlled pressure and temperature.

Calendering can be performed with many number of bowls, but here it is speciifically
restricted to two bowl calendering which is due to the average number of cliental for the
same.

Two-bowl calendering, also

known as a two-roll calender, is a
specific type of calendering
process. In this method, the fabric
is passed through two large
rollers, typically made of steel or
cast iron, that rotate in opposite
directions. The rollers exert
pressure on the fabric,
compressing it between them as
it passes through.
BRAND: PRABHAT TEXTILE CORPORATION
QUANTITY:1

Two-bowl calendering process:

Fabric Feeding: The fabric is fed into the gap between the two rollers. It is guided and
maintained in a flat, tensioned position to ensure uniform processing.
Compression: As the fabric passes between the rollers, they exert pressure on the fabric.
The pressure and temperature can be adjusted based on the desired effect and fabric
characteristics.
Smoothing and Lustering: The compression action of the rollers smoothens the fabric
surface by ironing out wrinkles and creases. It also enhances the fabric's luster by
increasing light reflectance.
Caliper Control: Two-bowl calendering can also be used to control the fabric's thickness
or caliper. The pressure between the rollers can be adjusted to reduce or increase the
fabric's thickness as required.
Cooling and Winding: After passing through the calender, the fabric may be subjected to
a cooling process to stabilize its properties. It is then wound onto a roll or further
processed as per the specific requirements of the textile product.

SANFORISATION

Sanforization is a mechanical finishing process used in the textile industry to control

and reduce fabric shrinkage. It is particularly applied to fabrics made from natural fibers
such as cotton, linen, or wool. The process is named after the Sanforized brand, which
pioneered this technique.
BRAND: Monfort montex
QUANTITY:1
The sanforization process involves the following steps
Feeding: The fabric is then fed into a sanforizing machine, which consists of several
components including a rubber belt, a heated cylinder, and an expanding felt.
Compressing: The fabric is compressed between the rubber belt and the heated cylinder,
creating tension and ensuring close contact between the fabric and the cylinder's
surface.
Steam and Heat: Steam is introduced into the machine, and the heated cylinder heats
the fabric. The combination of heat and moisture causes the fabric to shrink.
Mechanical Shrinkage: As the fabric is compressed and heated, the fibers undergo
mechanical stress, causing them to shrink in length and width.
Relaxation and Stretching: After the fabric passes through the heated cylinder, it enters
an expanding felt area. This allows the fabric to relax and stretch back to its original
dimensions, reducing residual shrinkage.
Drying and Cooling: The fabric is then dried and cooled to stabilize its dimensions and
remove excess moisture.
Sanforization ensures that the fabric has minimal residual shrinkage, making it more
stable and consistent in size. This process is widely used in the production of garments,
home textiles, and other textile products where dimensional stability is crucial. It helps
prevent excessive shrinkage during subsequent washing or use, providing customers
with fabrics that maintain their desired size and shape over time.
It is to be noted that after the finishing process, the fabric is sent to folding and if in
inspection the resultant parameter doesn't qualify the quality check, they are sent back
to the finishing department for Re- process.
 QUALITY ASSURANCE

Quality assurance in textiles refers to the systematic process of ensuring that textile
products meet certain predefined quality standards and customer expectations. It
involves various activities and measures taken to monitor, control, and improve the
quality of textiles throughout the production process. The primary goal of quality
assurance is to deliver products that are free from defects, consistently meet established
quality criteria, and satisfy the requirements of end-users.
Quality is a paramount aspect in textiles, necessitating thorough checks at every stage.
The following stages represent checkpoints where textiles undergo meticulous
inspections to ensure adherence to quality standards.

Sampling: Quality assurance is crucial during sampling to ensure that the textile
samples accurately represent the desired design, construction, and specifications. It
helps in identifying any potential issues or deviations before bulk production, saving
time and resources.

Greige Fabric: Quality assurance in greige fabric (unfinished fabric) is essential to

prevent defects such as uneven weaving, irregularities, or flaws in the fabric
structure. By maintaining high-quality greige fabric, subsequent processes can be
carried out smoothly, leading to better end products.

RFD (Ready for Dyeing): Quality assurance in the RFD stage is vital to ensure
consistent dyeing results across the fabric. Proper quality control helps achieve
uniform coloration, colorfastness, and desired patterns, enhancing the overall
appearance and value of the textile.

Printing/Dyeing: Quality assurance is critical during the printing/dyeing process to

ensure color accuracy, colorfastness, and pattern alignment. By maintaining quality
standards, manufacturers can deliver textiles with vibrant and durable colors,
meeting customer expectations.

Finishing: Quality assurance in the finishing stage ensures that the textile products
have the desired appearance, functionality, and performance characteristics. It
includes aspects such as proper sizing, surface treatments, softness, wrinkle
resistance, and other finishes that enhance the overall quality and usability of the
textile.

Marketing: Quality assurance plays a significant role in marketing textile products.

By consistently delivering high-quality textiles, manufacturers can build a
reputation for reliability, gain customer trust, and establish strong brand value.
Satisfied customers are more likely to recommend the brand and contribute to its
success in the market.
Yarn physical testing involves evaluating the physical properties and characteristics of
yarn to ensure its quality and performance. These tests assess factors such as yarn
strength, elongation, evenness, count, and hairiness. The results help in determining the
suitability of the yarn for specific applications and ensuring consistency in production.
Now, let's delve into the detailed steps of three common yarn physical tests: Uster test,
TPI (Twist per Inch), and TPM (Twist per Meter), and CSP (Count Strength Product) test.

Uster Test
Preparing Samples: Obtain a representative sample of
the yarn to be tested. Divide the sample into sub-
samples for testing.
Evenness Test: Measure the evenness of the yarn using
an evenness tester, such as the Uster Evenness Tester.
The tester measures the variations in thickness along the
yarn's length.
Imperfections Test: Detect and count the imperfections
in the yarn, such as neps, slubs, or thin/thick places,
using the Uster HVI (High Volume Instrument) or similar
equipment. Imperfections are evaluated according to
industry standards.
Classimat Test: Classify the yarn based on its evenness
and imperfections using the Classimat system. The
system assigns a class number to the yarn, indicating its
quality level.

TPI (Twist per Inch) and TPM (Twist per Meter)

Prepare Samples: Obtain a sufficient length of the yarn
sample for testing.
TPI Test: Measure the number of twists per inch in the yarn
using a twist tester. The yarn sample is clamped between
two points, and the twist is counted as the sample is
untwisted. The number of twists is recorded per inch of the
yarn.
TPM Test: Calculate the number of twists per meter from
the TPI measurement. This is done by multiplying the TPI
value by a conversion factor based on the unit conversion
from inches to meters.
CSP (Count Strength Product) Test
Prepare Samples: Obtain a specific length of the yarn sample.
Count Test: Determine the yarn count (thickness) using a
suitable instrument, such as a wrap reel or electronic yarn
tester. The count is measured in terms of the number of units
(such as Tex, Denier, Ne) per length (such as kilometer, 9,000
meters, or yard).
Strength Test: Measure the breaking strength of the yarn
using a tensile testing machine. The yarn sample is clamped at
both ends, and force is applied until the yarn breaks. The
maximum force endured by the yarn is recorded as the
breaking strength.
Calculate CSP: Calculate the Count Strength Product (CSP) by
multiplying the yarn count by the breaking strength. This
measurement provides an indication of the yarn's strength
relative to its thickness.

There are two types of testing that can be performed on textiles: physical and chemical.
Therefore, we will go through each type of testing individually, examining their specific
characteristics and importance in ensuring the quality of textiles.

Physical quality assurance testing in textiles involves evaluating various physical

characteristics and properties of the textile materials or products. These tests assess factors
such as strength, durability, dimensional stability, appearance, and other physical attributes.
The purpose of physical quality assurance testing is to ensure that textiles meet the desired
specifications, performance requirements, and customer expectations.

Tear Strength: Tear strength is determined

by creating a cut or slit in the fabric,
typically in a specified shape, and applying
force perpendicular to the cut. The force
required to propagate the tear or completely
separate the fabric is measured. This test
helps assess the fabric's ability to withstand
tearing or ripping, which is important for
durability.
Tensile Strength: Tensile strength is
measured by subjecting a fabric sample to a
tensile testing machine. The sample is
clamped at both ends, and a steadily
increasing force is applied until the fabric
breaks. The maximum force endured by the
fabric before breaking is recorded as the
tensile strength. It helps determine the
fabric's ability to resist stretching or
deformation.

Pilling : It refers to the formation of small

balls or pills of tangled fibers on the surface of
a fabric. Pilling tests involve subjecting the
fabric to rubbing or abrasion using a machine
or an instrument to determine its resistance
to pilling, evaluating the fabric's appearance
and potential for fiber entanglement.

Shrinkage: Shrinkage testing involves

measuring the dimensions of a fabric
sample before and after laundering or
exposure to specific moisture and heat
conditions. The percentage change in
dimensions indicates the amount of
shrinkage the fabric undergoes. This
test helps in understanding the fabric's
stability and potential size changes after
care procedures.
 GSM (Grams per Square Meter): GSM is
calculated by weighing a known-sized sample
of the fabric and dividing the weight by the
area of the sample in square meters. It
provides an indication of the fabric's weight,
thickness, and density. Higher GSM values
generally indicate thicker and denser fabrics.

GLM (Grams per Linear Meter): GLM

measures the weight of a yarn per unit
length, usually expressed in grams per
1,000 meters. It helps determine the
weight and thickness of the yarn, which
can impact the fabric's characteristics
such as drape and strength.

Yarn Count: Yarn count is determined by

measuring the length of a specific weight of
yarn. The count can be expressed using
various systems such as Tex, Denier, Ne,
and Nm. Yarn count provides information
about the yarn's thickness or fineness, with
higher counts indicating finer yarns.
Weave Construction: Weave construction
refers to the pattern formed by interlacing the
warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) yarns.
Different types of weave constructions, such as
plain weave, twill weave, or satin weave,
produce distinct fabric appearances and
characteristics. The choice of weave
construction affects factors such as fabric
strength, drape, and breathability.

Washing fastness: It refers to the ability of a

textile material to retain its color and
overall quality after undergoing repeated
washing. Washing fastness tests involve
subjecting the fabric to standardized
washing conditions and assessing any color
fading, bleeding, or other changes in
appearance, ensuring the fabric's resistance
to washing-induced damage.

Color Fastness: Color fastness tests

evaluate how well a fabric retains its
color when exposed to various external
factors. Different tests are performed to
assess color fastness to light, washing,
rubbing, perspiration, and other
relevant conditions. These tests involve
subjecting the fabric to specific
procedures and assessing any color
changes or bleeding.
Water Rubbing, Dry Rubbing, Wet Rubbing:
Rubbing tests are performed to determine the
fabric's propensity for color bleeding or
staining. In water rubbing, dry rubbing, or wet
rubbing tests, the fabric is rubbed against a
standard fabric or under specific conditions.
The amount of color transfer or staining is
assessed and rated for color fastness.

Perspiration: Perspiration testing

evaluates the fabric's resistance to
discoloration or staining when exposed
to synthetic perspiration. The fabric is
typically exposed to a standardized
perspiration solution, and any color
changes or staining are examined to
determine its color fastness.

Reed Pick: Reed pick refers to the

number of warp yarns per inch in a
woven fabric. It is determined by
counting the number of warp yarns in a
linear inch of the fabric. The reed pick
influences the fabric's density and
appearance, with higher reed picks
resulting in a denser fabric.
Chemical testing in textiles involves analyzing textile materials to determine their
chemical composition, identify the presence of harmful substances, and ensure
compliance with safety and quality standards. It is important because it helps protect
consumer health by detecting and eliminating hazardous chemicals. Additionally,
chemical testing ensures compliance with regulatory requirements, verifies product
quality, supports sustainable practices, and promotes transparency in the textile
industry, thus enhancing consumer confidence and enabling responsible textile
production.

Chemical testing is conducted at two stages, initially at the RFD (Ready for Dyeing) stage
and later at the finished stage in Ankur Textiles. Let's explore the various tests
performed at each stage to ensure compliance with safety standards and maintain
product quality.

pH Test
The pH test is used to measure the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. pH is a measure of the
concentration of hydrogen ions (H+) in a solution. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, where pH 7
is considered neutral, values below 7 are acidic, and values above 7 are alkaline or basic. The
test involves using pH indicators, such as litmus paper or pH meters, which change color
depending on the pH of the solution being tested. It is a widely used test in various fields,
including chemistry, biology, and environmental science.

Procedure: A pH test measures the acidity or alkalinity of a substance, in this case, a textile
material. A small sample of the material is taken, and a pH indicator solution or pH meter is
used to determine its pH level. The sample is immersed in the indicator solution, and the
resulting color change or pH value is compared against a pH scale to determine the acidity or
alkalinity.
Whitening Test
The whitening test is commonly used in the cosmetic and textile industries to determine
the effectiveness of products in making materials appear whiter. It involves assessing
the ability of a substance or product to remove stains, discoloration, or yellowness from
a material, such as fabric or teeth. The test can be subjective, involving visual inspection
by comparing the sample before and after treatment, or it can be more quantitative,
involving the use of instruments like colorimeters or spectrophotometers to measure
changes in reflectance or color properties.

Procedure: The whitening test is performed to assess the presence and intensity of
optical brighteners or whitening agents in textiles. A small sample of the fabric is
subjected to UV light or a specific wavelength of light. The fabric's brightness or
fluorescence under the light is observed and compared to a reference standard to
determine the effectiveness of the whitening agents.

TEGEWA Solution test

is a standardized method used in the textile industry to evaluate the effectiveness of desizing
agents. It involves applying a standardized concentration of the desizing agent to a fabric
sample previously treated with sizing agents. After incubation and rinsing, the fabric is
evaluated for the level of desizing achieved through visual inspection or specific
measurements. The test helps manufacturers select optimal desizing agents for improved
fabric quality.

Procedure: The TEGEWA Sol test assesses desizing agent efficiency in textiles. A standardized
concentration of the desizing agent is applied to a fabric sample previously treated with sizing
agents. After incubation and rinsing, the fabric is visually inspected or measured to determine
the level of desizing achieved. The test aids in selecting effective desizing agents for improved
fabric quality.
Total Indication of the Azo Dyes (TIaV) test
The Total Indication of the Azo Dyes (TIaV) test is used to detect and quantify the presence of
potentially harmful aromatic amines released by azo dyes in consumer products like textiles. It
involves extracting the dyes, subjecting the extract to a reaction that converts any aromatic
amines, and analyzing the resulting solution using techniques like spectrophotometry or
chromatography. The test ensures compliance with safety regulations and helps protect
consumers from potential health risks. fabric quality.

Procedure: The TIaV test is performed to detect the presence of azo dyes in textiles. A small
sample of the fabric is taken and subjected to a chemical extraction process using a specific
solvent. The resulting solution is then analyzed using spectrophotometry or other suitable
methods to determine the concentration of azo dyes present in the fabric. The results are
compared against specific limits to assess compliance with regulations.The TEGEWA Sol test
assesses desizing agent efficiency in textiles. A standardized concentration of the desizing
agent is applied to a fabric sample previously treated with sizing agents. After incubation and
rinsing, the fabric is visually inspected or measured to determine the level of desizing
achieved. The test aids in selecting effective desizing agents for improved fabric quality.
Absorption Test
Absorbency is the ability of a fabric to take in moisture and retain liquids within its structure
which affects skin comfort, static build–up, shrinkage, water repellency and wrinkle recovery
and other properties. It is determined by the time the sample takes to absorb a fixed amount
(usually a drop) of distilled or deionized water. Good absorbency requires rapid capture and
superior holding capacity.

Procedure: The absorption test determines the ability of a textile material to absorb a specified
liquid. A small piece of the fabric is weighed and placed in contact with the liquid for a specific
period. Afterward, the fabric is removed, excess liquid is drained, and the fabric is reweighed.
The weight difference indicates the amount of liquid absorbed by the fabric, reflecting its
absorbency characteristics.

At the RFD stage of textile production, all the aforementioned tests are conducted.
However, during the finishing stage, only pH testing and, if the fabric is white,
whitening testing are carried out.
 INSPECTION AND PACKAGING

Finish inspection and packaging in textiles refers to the final stages of the production
process. Finish inspection involves examining textile products for defects and ensuring
they meet quality standards. Packaging involves carefully folding or rolling the textiles
and placing them in appropriate packaging materials. This protects the textiles during
transportation and storage. These processes ensure quality control and prepare the
products for shipment, maintaining customer satisfaction and the manufacturer's
reputation.
Ankur Textile creates textiles not only for their own core brands but also engages in business
related to exports and ready-made garment fabrics. In this we will delve into their packaging
and inspection processes.

The finishing inspection and packaging process of textiles typically involves several key
steps:

Batch Received: Upon completion of the manufacturing process, the batches of

finished textiles are received at the inspection and packaging area. Each batch is
identified and recorded for tracking purposes.
Folding with Side by Side Inspection: The textiles are carefully unfolded, and the
finish inspection begins. Trained quality control personnel visually inspect the
textiles side by side, comparing them for consistency and identifying any defects or
imperfections. This process ensures that the products meet the desired quality
standards.
Sent for Cutting Pieces: After the finish inspection, the textiles are sent for cutting
into individual pieces based on the intended product, such as garments or other
textile items. Cutting is done according to predetermined patterns or specifications.
Stamped and Printed Brand Specifications: Once the cutting process is complete, the
individual pieces or components of the textiles are stamped or printed with the
brand specifications. This includes adding labels, tags, or other forms of branding
that provide information about the product, such as the brand name, care
instructions, and other relevant details.
Packed and Dispatched: The stamped or printed textiles are then carefully folded or
rolled according to their nature and intended use. They are placed into suitable
packaging materials, such as plastic bags or cardboard boxes, to protect them during
transportation and storage. The packaging may also include adding additional
protective layers or cushioning if required.

MACHINE NAME folding machine (1m)

MODEL Shree Laxmi Eng
QUANTITY 12
TOTAL LABOUR 100-120
PRODUCTION 18000/ day shift
 BATCH RECIEVED

Inspection and folding Inspection and folding

(Core brands) (Export and RMG)

Cutting into pieces

according to requirement

Core Labelling Export Labelling

Core Packing Export Packing

Dispatch
 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

In the context of textiles, product development refers to the process of creating and
manufacturing new products that satisfy the needs of the user and target market while
taking into account timeframes, viability, and profitability.
 ROLE OF THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Design Development : Design development is, in general, the process of developing a

more intricate, sophisticated design. Each project's approach will be unique, but
generally speaking, you may anticipate a few important outputs from your architect
and their group of consultants
Sort Mapping and Generation : Giving each cloth present in the product
development its own identification so that we can find it easily.
Fabric Analysis : The study of a fabric's structure, characteristics, features,
orientation, and dip is known as fabric analysis. learn the fabric's specifications.
Identification of the fabric's front and back sides. Thread identification for the warp
and weft.
New Product Development
Concept Development

Here, initial fabric development takes place before being sent to manufacturing.
Designers in the development division generate concepts and create samples for
them.
These samples are created on a handloom before being distributed.
The sample is discussed with the client and the marketing division.
If the sample is accepted, it is submitted for production. If any adjustments are
necessary, they make them in accordance with the client's requests, and then it is
sent for production.
All produced designs' samples are maintained in a conference room.
They are placed on display in glass cabinets with sufficient lighting so that any
potential new customer can see them when necessary.

Ankur is now working mostly on the following fabrics:

2*2 Rubia (Blouse Material )
Carbonize Fabric
Plain Voiles
Dobby Voiles
Jacquard Voiles
How to choose the cloth that the product developer designed:
The design produced by the designers receives HOD (Head of the Department)
approval.
At 20 to 25 metres, they conduct trials.
Then it undergoes some quality control.
Proceed with mass production
 REFERENCE

Ankur Textiles ( A Division of Arvind LTD. ), n.d. History, AHMEDABAD: s.n.

Charles S. Whewell, n.d. Woven Processing. Issue Britannica.
Mishra, S. P., 2000. A Text Book of Fabric Science and Technology. 10TH ed. Orissa:
NEW AGE INTERNATIONAL LIMITED .
TROTMAN, E. R., 1924. DYEING AND CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE FIBERS.
FOURTH ed. LONDON: GRIFFIN LONDON.