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epicure_11_2024_freemagazines_top
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DRINKS
Unconventional
drink pairings
for your
Christmas feast
TRAVEL
Experience
Kangaroo Island’s
resilience and
revival
FOOD
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EPICUREASIA.COM
NOVEMBER 2024 / EDITOR'S NOTE
As we wrap up the year, let's take a moment to Italy, and France (who are now based in Singapore).
reflect on our personal culinary journeys and travel They weave nostalgia, family traditions, and culinary
experiences in 2024. creativity into dishes that celebrate the essence of
Some of my fondest memories this year included the holiday season.
marvelling at the sight of baby sea lions napping on We also feature an exclusive experience at The
the sun-dappled shores of Kangaroo Island, in South Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto’s hidden gem – Chef’s Table by
Australia. The Seal Bay Conservation Park is home to Katsuhito Inoue. Here, the artistry and dedication to
these endangered species – typically threatened by fine produce come alive in an intimate space, where
gillnets used by commercial fisheries to catch sharks. every dish is injected with precision and passion. Even
We learned that Kangaroo island's resilient the pure water used to create stocks is sourced from a
landscape has revived after the devastating bushfires sacred shrine in Kyoto.
of 2020. The destination is now welcoming visitors For those seeking the perfect gift this holiday
from near and far to sample its many gourmet season, this issue is brimming with inspiration. From
and vinous offerings. The Southern Ocean Lodge, indulgent sweet treats, charcuterie and roasts to
which was burned down in the bushfire, has also elegant sake and limited-edition whiskies, we have
been beautifully rebuilt. It is the perfect retreat for curated a selection that celebrates the joy of giving –
gourmands seeking an escape from the urban bustle or for that matter, sharing – fine food and drink.
to enjoy tranquillity woven with loads of luxury. Here’s to a season filled with warm gatherings,
Another exciting highlight was joining the exquisite flavours, and lasting memories
top chefs of The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo, for an early May your Christmas and New Year be a truly
morning exploration of the sprawling Toyosu Fish delicious one. See you in 2025!
Market, where the energy of tradition met the day’s
freshest catch. Seeing how the chefs deliberated
over the day’s catch with their trusted suppliers was
an eye-opener.
In this issue, we share the childhood Christmas
memories of four top chefs from Spain, England,
Amy Van Editor
EPICUREASIA.COM
NOVEMBER 2024 / CONTENTS
FOOD /
9
Thoughtful artisanal and edible presents
54
for an unforgettable Christmas.
20
From the heat of the kitchen to the
pressure of the judges, these two
contestants from Culinary Class Wars
recount their journey during Netflix’s
hottest cooking show.
27
Two women who run their own gourmet
businesses are making quality food the
centrepiece of every occasion.
32 40
These zero-waste pioneers are reshaping
Four European chefs who now call
modern dining with creative solutions to
Singapore home share their Christmas
sustainability’s toughest challenges.
food memories and traditions from their
childhood.
46
Culinary talents from The Ritz Carlton,
Tokyo craft exquisite dishes and drinks
using ingredients sourced from Japan’s
finest producers, with the aim of
preserving cultural heritage through food.
52
Chef’s Table By Katsuhito Inoue offers
an imaginative menu and unforgettable
dining experience, celebrating Kyoto’s
flavour, craftsmanship, and artistry.
DRINKS /
56
Discover fresh takes on holiday drinks
with expert pairings that bring a twist to
your festive spread.
40
NOVEMBER 2024 / CONTENTS
83
TRAVEL /
74 Canberra
64 Kyoto The landscape is pristine, the
René Redzepi and the Noma team community is diverse, and the
return to Japan for a second Noma culinary scene is outstanding.
Kyoto pop-up, capturing the spirit of Here’s why Canberra, Australia’s
autumn in a tasting menu replete with
seasonal mushrooms, full-flavoured
game, and resplendent foliage.
capital, should be on every food
lover’s radar. 69
80 Phu Quoc
68 Kangaroo Island The arrival of La Festa Phu Quoc, COVER IMAGE: PETIT DÉSIRÉ FROM
Kangaroo Island’s resilience has been Curio Collection by Hilton on HUIZE VAN WELY
evident over the past few years. Vietnam’s picturesque ‘Pearl CREDIT: HUIZE VAN WELY
Following the devasting Black Summer Island’ brings a sophisticated
bushfires of 2020, the destination, injection of Mediterranean
known for its pristine wilderness, has glamour to the Italian-inspired
bounced back. Sunset Town development.
• 9 •
The art
of
edible gifting
Thoughtful artisanal and edible presents for an unforgettable Christmas
BY ERIS CHOO
The season of sharing is here, and there’s no better way to spread holiday cheer than with artisanal
and edible gifts that reflect the love and meticulous thought that have gone into making each item.
From sustainable tableware and delicate porcelain pieces to indulgent caramels, cheeses, festive
hampers and fine wines, this year’s curated list of gift ideas are sure to delight loved ones and make the
celebrations a little more special.
• 10 •
The Caramelier
For those looking for something beyond the usual chocolate gifts, The
Caramelier has a fine collection of handcrafted soft caramels. Made in
small batches with European milk and French butter, the caramels come
in six signature flavours, ranging from savoury and nutty to floral and
fruity. The original Pink Salt caramel (above) delivers the perfect balance
of sweet and salty, while the Roasted Pecan adds a nutty richness with
buttery undertones. Coffee lovers will adore the Coffee caramel, made with
premium Ethiopian coffee beans for a creamy yet slightly bitter finish. A love
letter to Singaporean heritage, the Gula Melaka Coconut caramel (pictured
right) marries rich palm sugar with tropical coconut and fragrant pandan.
Sophisticated options like Raspberry Rose and Earl Grey add a touch of
elegance to the festivities. Don’t miss the limited-edition Vanilla Spice that
evokes the nostalgia of the holidays, with its aromatic blend of spices like
cinnamon, nutmeg, and premium Madagascar vanilla. thecaramelier.com
• 12 •
Saint Pierre
They say the best gift you can give someone is time — so
take the hassle out of prepping for holiday gatherings
and order a sumptuous feast from Saint Pierre. Not to
be missed are Saint Pierre’s Christmas classics: the Black
Truffle Marble Foie Gras Terrine or the Armagnac-marinated
Foie Gras Terrine, as well as starters of Green Tea-smoke
Wild Salmon and Truffle-scented Mushroom Soup. For the
gathering’s centrepiece, the Roasted Whole Capon with
chestnut, mushroom, and foie gras stuffing with herbed
truffle jus is sure to impress guests. Other meaty options
include The Maple-Bourbon Glazed Ham, 7-hour Braised
Lamb Shoulder with lemon confit, coriander and cumin,
Boneless Lamb Saddle with thyme, rosemary and lamb jus,
200-day Aged Angus Beef Rib Eye “En Croûte” with black
pepper and thyme jus, and Whole Salt-crusted, Dry-aged
“Côte de Boeuf” 7 Ribs. Complement the mains with
scrumptious sides such as Gratin Dauphinois, Truffled Mash
Potato, Mac and Cheese with Truffle, and Roasted Winter
Root Vegetable. Cap off the festivities with the Mont Blanc
Tart, an almond sucre tart filled with Tochiotome strawberry
compote, Korean chestnut-rum cream, and a light and crisp
vanilla meringue. For pre-orders, call: +65 6438 0887
Little Farms
Little Farms presents a staple of artisanal selections, beautifully
packaged and ready for gifting. New to the festive hampers
this year are Cartwright & Butler Shortbread Biscuits: these
buttery, creamy, and crumbly treats are from a family-run
UK-based company with over 115 years of heritage in biscuit-
making. The classic Italian Bonifanti Panettone, made using
fine ingredients and a slow fermentation process is back this
season. Other delights in the hampers include Montezuma
Chocolates, Mondo Nougat Bars, Giant Sevillana Manzanilla
Olives, Org Demeter teas, nuts, and a range of wines and
champagnes. Better yet, put together a bespoke order for your
own custom-created hamper. littlefarms.com/festive
• 15 •
Costa Verde
Costa Verde’s gorgeous tableware and decorative
pieces make for thoughtful gifts for anyone who
loves to entertain at home. And they’re made
with sustainability in mind too. The brand’s highly
sought-after porcelain pieces are made through
sustainable processes that recover industrial
waste and reintroduce them into the value chain,
which not only reduces the amount of resources
and energy needed, but also creates lovely,
unique pieces.
Iwa 5
Whether for the seasoned sake enthusiast or
those new to the world of Japanese spirits, an
elegant bottle of IWA 5 Assemblage 5 is the
perfect sentiment for the holiday season. Crafted
in the heartlands of Japan, this premium sake
marks a new chapter in masterful blending
(assemblage) techniques by former Dom
Pérignon Chef de Cave, Richard Geoffroy, as he
builds on the success of previous assemblages
while boldly venturing into new territory.
Assemblage 5 harmoniously balances warmth,
depth, and vitality with an avant-garde flair,
blending different rice varieties such as Yamada
Nishiki, Omachi, and Gohyakumangoku to create
a complex yet refined and aromatic profile
with delicate floral and fruity notes. The sleek,
minimalist bottle design also adds a touch of
sophistication, making it a memorable gift that
looks as exquisite as it tastes. iwa-sake.sg
Royal Salute
The Royal Salute’s Asia-exclusive 24-Year-Old Cognac Cask
Finish is a first from the iconic whisky label. Crafted under
the guidance of Scottish whisky legend and Master Blender
Sandy Hyslop, this exclusive expression blends exceptional
single malts from Strathisla and Longmorn, before ageing
them for 24 years in the rarest and finest first-fill French oak
cognac casks. The result is a prized liquid with a beautiful
gold-copper hue, with notes of dark cherries and toasted
oak, sweet marzipan, caramelised figs, and peaches in syrup.
The extended maturation in first-fill cognac casks also reveals
wonderfully complex depths and fruity flavours, reminiscent
of summer berry compote and apricot jam, with a lingering
hint of freshly grounded nutmeg to complement a long
and rich finish. A magnificent beverage deserves an equally
opulent vessel: in this case a limited-edition flagon in striking
red that is designed with gifting in mind, housed in exquisite
packaging that features details such as pheasants and cranes
to symbolise good luck, and oriental flowers like peonies and
chrysanthemums to represent prosperity and joy.
• 17 •
Johnnie Walker
Capturing winter wonder, whisky craftsmanship, unique blend that reveals an indulgent nose of
and alpine luxury all bottled in one, the new sweet creamy vanilla with spiced apples and
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ice Chalet makes plums, paired with a fruity palate of apples and
for an unforgettable Christmas gift. This limited berries, and finished with a soft fruity spice
edition whisky, crafted in partnership with luxury with a gentle smoke. The gift also includes a
ski brand Perfect Moment, draws inspiration striking deep blue bottle wrapped in Perfect
from blue hour – that magical twilight hour when Moment’s signature houndstooth and star logo,
skiers leave the slopes to gather around the accompanied by a reversible crossbody bag
warmth of the fireside. which functions as a stylish accessory perfect for
both snowy slopes and city streets. The Johnnie
Bringing these enchanting après-ski moments Walker Blue Label Ice Chalet can be purchased
to life is Master Blender Emma Walker, with a at https://asher.sg and selected retailers.
• 18 •
Penfolds
Penfolds’ latest holiday collection lets you gift
in style with the release of Holiday Designed
by NIGO — a collectable series of four unique
gift boxes by Penfolds Creative Partner NIGO.
Available for a limited time only, NIGO boldly
reinterprets the graphic chequered pattern often
found in traditional textiles and presents them in
the signature holiday colours of Red, Green, Blue,
and Black.
Coravin
Wine connoisseurs will enjoy Coravin’s Timeless range, which
now comes in a stylish Forest Green colour for the holidays,
alongside the return of its popular Deep Sea Blue Timeless
Three+ shade. Part of Coravin’s Six+ system, the revolutionary
device allows wine lovers to enjoy their beverages at their
own pace, without having to worry about compromising on
the quality of their opened wine bottle. Using a precision-
engineered needle, the system delicately pierces the cork to
extract wine while simultaneously replacing it with argon gas,
ensuring that oxygen never compromises the wine’s integrity.
Once the needle is removed, the cork expands back to its
normal shape, so the wine remains as fresh as the day it was
bottled. In line with the season’s gifting spirit and also the
brand’s commitment to reducing its carbon footprint, Coravin
pledges to plant a tree for every limited-edition Forest Green
Timeless Six+ system sold on coravin.com.
• 20 •
F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S
Face-Off
From the heat of the kitchen to the pressure of the judges, these two contestants from
Culinary Class Wars recount their respective journeys during Netflix’s hottest cooking show.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
PHOTOS NETFLIX KOREA
N
etflix Korea’s fiercest culinary showdown, very different turns. Chef Joseph, known for his use of
Culinary Class Wars, recently captivated Korean ingredients to make creative dishes from a non-
audiences with its mix of inventive and gruelling Korean perspective faced a tough battle in the second
challenges, topped with intense kitchen drama. The round, losing to a Black Spoon chef in a nail-biting
debut season saw 80 ‘Black Spoon’ chefs – up-and- cook-off. Meanwhile, Chef Jung made an impressive
coming chefs – go up against 20 ‘White Spoon’ chefs run, reaching the top eight with her approach to Chinese
– established, award-winning chefs – for a chance to cuisine and calm demeanour under pressure. In exclusive
win the title of champion. Among the contestants interviews, both chefs share about their experiences in
were Joseph Linderwood and Jung Ji Sun, two ‘White the competition, the lessons they learned, and what really
Spoon’ chefs whose journeys in the competition took went on behind the scenes.
• 21 •
F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S
Korean ingredients through Australian lens When the chef competed on Culinary Class Wars earlier this
Joseph Lidgerwood, an Australian-born year, he faced a challenge that pushed even his seasoned
chef with a deep appreciation for diverse skills: time. “At EVETT, we’re always developing recipes and
ingredients and cultures, has always testing them over time, but in the competition, you have
embraced a spirit of adventure in his to cook what you know and pull ideas together quickly,”
culinary career. From his early days working Joseph explains. Despite the pressure, he showcased Korean
at renowned fine-dining establishments ingredients in a way that stayed true to his philosophy of
like The French Laundry in Napa and The respecting cultural roots while embracing creativity.
Ledbury in London, to launching pop-up
restaurants in cities like New York, Hong He faced off “Cooking Maniac”, Chef Nam No Yoon in the
Kong, and Yangon, Joseph has continually White vs Black Spoon face-off in Episode Five, spotlighting
pushed the boundaries of his craft. the Conger Eel. While he ultimately lost the challenge, he
came up with the “삔집즴삄핅퍔” which roughly translates
Now based in Seoul, where he runs one- to “Light (taste) Conger Eel”, complete with sesame sauce,
Michelin-starred restaurant EVETT, Joseph’s perilla leaf oil, Korean wild black raspberries wine and apples.
approach to food has captivated the
international dining scene with his exclusive On his Instagram page, he reflected: “Honestly after this
use of Korean ingredients. Essentially, he show I was disappointed. I wanted to show my best and
serves creative dishes from a non-Korean I have a lot of opinions on how this show and how it was
perspective. EVETT was honoured with a run.” However, he also notes some positive takeaways and
Michelin star in the 2020 Guide a year after goals for the future. He had high praise for the chefs who
its opening, and has since retained this participated in this show. “All Black Spoon and White Spoon
accolade. Joseph was also winner of the 2021 chefs were excellent, and honestly have become great
MICHELIN Blancpain Young Chef Award. friends. Win, lose or draw, what I admire most is that Korea
is on the rise, and we are on the center stage. Let’s keep
pushing together to show how great this country is!”
For Joseph, the competition was not just a test of skill but
an opportunity for growth. “It’s good to push yourself out of
your comfort zone. Some of my peers passed on the project
due to the risks involved, but I found it rewarding. Sometimes
you win, and sometimes you learn,” he reflects. One of the
dishes that particularly caught his attention was a zero-waste
creation by his friend, Chef Kim Bong Su, which highlighted
the humble cabbage — a dish that Joseph still wishes he
could have tried.
F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S
F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S
I
l Ristorante – Luca Fantin is the impossibly chic their team are in charge of translating Fantin’s
black-and-white haute cuisine crown of Bvlgari flawless take on contemporary Italian cuisine.
Resort Bali. The sister restaurant of the Tokyo-
based eponymous restaurant just celebrated its 15th On the wall of the chef’s office, images of every
anniversary in September. dish from the previous seasons are displayed.
The ingredient-focused philosophy is visible
Led by Italian executive chef Luca Fantin, the Bali on every plate. “80% of our current menu uses
restaurant tells a compelling story of how the local produce. Every time we change the menu,
archipelago’s seasonal and local produce has the we push the bar higher than before through
progressive potential to share plates with winter countless trials until we end up with a well-
black truffle and wagyu beef. Head chef Alessandro articulated dish,”adds Mazzali who joined the
Mazzali, sous chef Jatu Rizki Putra Anurantha, and restaurant in 2022.
• 25 •
S PE C I A L F E AT U R E / BV LG A R I R E S O RT B A L I
S PE C I A L F E AT U R E / BV LG A R I R E S O RT B A L I
F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G
I
n Singapore’s bustling food landscape, two women are steadily and resolutely shaping the
way we entertain and dine at home. Wynona Leach, founder of Lush Platters, and Joey Quek,
the new owner behind Swiss Butchery, are transforming how Singaporeans think about food
presentation and quality. From Wynona’s visually striking grazing tables to Joey’s accessible yet
premium meats, both women are committed to offering exceptional experiences for those who
love to entertain at home.
• 30 •
F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G
Quality is key these farms, we maintain control over the quality of our supply. Every
Both Wynona and Joey are deeply committed to product undergoes rigorous quality checks before it makes its way to
sourcing the best ingredients for their businesses. our shelves, ensuring our customers get only the best,” she explains.
At Lush Platters, Wynona selects artisanal
products from local and international producers, As Singapore’s food culture continues to evolve, Wynona and Joey
carefully curating items that add depth and have also adapted their businesses to meet changing consumer
variety to her platters. “I’m always on the lookout demands. Wynona has noticed a significant shift in how people
for unique products that complement each approach entertaining at home. People are more intentional now
other — whether it’s handmade crackers, pure about devising beautiful, memorable experiences for their guests.
honeycomb, or a great vegan dark chocolate,” “Singaporeans are now more invested in creating intimate, curated
she says. Each component of a Lush Platter is gatherings rather than large, impersonal events, and are looking
chosen not just for its taste but for the way it for ways to impress their guests while also making it easier on
contributes to the overall experience. Wynona’s themselves,” she says. Grazing tables have become a popular choice
emphasis on sourcing the freshest and most for intimate gatherings, and Wynona sees this trend continuing to
flavourful ingredients ensures that her platters grow as more people seek out alternative dining experiences that
consistently exceed customer expectations. focus on quality over quantity.
For Joey, who’s also a family office lawyer, Joey has also observed a similar shift towards quality over quantity,
the quality of Swiss Butchery’s meats is non- as well as ethical sourcing in the way Singaporeans approach home
negotiable. “We go through a meticulous cooking, especially as more people experiment with gourmet meals.
process of selecting each cut, and working “Singaporeans are now much more informed about the quality and
closely with farms that adhere to the highest origin of the meats they consume. They’re looking for transparency,
standards. By building strong relationships with value, and sustainability,” she notes.
• 31 •
F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G
F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G
Joey’s story with Swiss Butchery, on the other hand, centres on bringing
premium meats and gourmet products to Singaporeans. Swiss Butchery has
been a beloved institution in Singapore since 1994, offering high quality,
specialty meats from around the world, alongside gourmet sausages,
marinades, and deli products. Joey’s mission when she took over her
family’s business was to uphold Swiss Butchery’s reputation as the go-to
destination for meat lovers in Singapore while also making premium cuts
and gourmet products accessible to a broader audience. Her dedication to
quality and education ensures that Swiss Butchery remains a favourite for
anyone looking to elevate their home-cooked meals.
No easy feat
Every business comes with its own set of difficulties, and both women
have encountered their share of challenges along the way. Wynona
started Lush Platters from her home, handling everything on her own in
the early days. “I was doing everything — creating the platters, building
WYNONA LEACH, LUSH PLATTERS the website, responding to customer inquiries. I remember nights
where I would stay up until 3am trying to finish everything on time,” she
Passion behind the plate says. Juggling the demands of a growing business, especially with limited
Wynona’s entrepreneurial journey started resources, tested her resilience. Today, Lush Platters has grown into a sought-
early, and her passion for food and design after brand known for its unique approach to grazing, with a loyal customer
have always been intertwined. Lush Platters, base that ranges from corporate clients to private party hosts.
founded in 2017, specialises in creating
luxurious, beautifully arranged grazing tables
JOEY QUEK, SWISS BUTCHERY
and platters that are perfect for celebrations,
parties, or corporate events. “I’ve always had
an entrepreneurial spirit,” she recalls, explaining
how her career trajectory — from handmade
children’s fashion label in Australia to a dessert
table and online party goods business in
Singapore — has always involved a personal
touch and attention to detail. The concept of
Lush Platters came to her when she noticed
that cheeseboards were popular in Australia
and Europe but not in Singapore, and so
she took it as an opportunity to introduce
something unique here.
LUSH PLATTERS
• 29 •
F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G
Joey’s experience with Swiss Butchery was food on a platter. “It’s about creating a memorable experience, where the
similar, especially when it came to sourcing food becomes a centrepiece of their gathering,” Wynona explains. “I want
quality products while keeping prices affordable. our customers to feel a sense of delight and excitement when they see one
“It was critical to establish trust with suppliers of our platters or spreads.” She pays meticulous attention to the balance
and ensure consistency in the quality of what we of colours, textures, and flavours, ensuring that every platter is not only
offered,” she shares. But through persistence delicious but also a feast for the eyes. “The visual appeal draws people in,
and a clear vision, both women overcame these but the taste keeps them coming back,” she remarks.
early obstacles and built brands that reflect their
passion and commitment to quality. Meanwhile, Joey’s approach with Swiss Butchery focuses on elevating
everyday dining through high quality ingredients. Whether it’s a family
One thing that keeps them going? The barbecue or a festive dinner, Swiss Butchery offers a variety of meats
unwavering dedication to creating unique food that are selected with care, from grass-fed beef to free-range poultry.
experiences for their customers. “We want people to feel like they can create restaurant-quality meals at
home without feeling intimidated by the process,” she says.
Lush Platters’ grazing tables have become Swiss Butchery also provides a wide range of ready-to-cook products,
synonymous with visually stunning and tastefully such as marinated meats and house-made sausages, that make meal
curated food displays that feature a vibrant preparation easy yet impressive. Joey’s commitment to educating
selection of artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, fresh customers — by simplifying and demystifying the process of selection
fruits, vegetables, and an assortment of dips and and preparation — ensures that both novice and experienced home
crackers, many of which are made in-house. For cooks can feel confident and inspired to create and enjoy gourmet
her, however, it’s about more than just putting meals at home.
LUSH PLATTERS’ BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED SETTING LADEN WITH CHEESE PLATTERS, COLD CUTS, AND OTHER FRESH INGREDIENTS.
• 32 •
Four European chefs who now call Singapore home share their
Christmas food memories and traditions from their childhood.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
This year, top chefs based in Singapore are revisiting their European Christmas memories
and family traditions, reinventing dishes that honour those timeless flavours. Whether it’s
a twist on cotechino for good luck or a nod to a seafood feast from home, these festive
specialties add something deeply personal to their menus. This season, embark on a
journey through dishes that define their childhood memories.
• 33 •
turnips, crosnes,
celeriac, and
potatoes. We want
broken roast potatoes. We always have to create a dish that’s
incredible gravies, a big spoonful of creamed truly special, warm,
horseradish and mustard, and maybe a slice and comforting.
of beef or turkey if needed. But for me, the
highlight is always the vegetables. They My New Year’s
are the true stars of the dish, with the meat resolution is...
playing a secondary role. The charred, crispy to focus on staying
onions, roasted carrots with a touch of honey active with more
— amazing. That’s what excites me about running and exercise,
this meal, the special childhood memories of while also making
those Christmas holidays and Sundays, where sure to spend more
the vegetables took centre stage. quality time with
of bundling up in scarves, we’re usually in shorts my family. For the
Even though I live in Asia now... and t-shirts, enjoying the warmth of Singapore. restaurants, we have
I still try to recreate the traditional English some very exciting
Christmas here. I usually invite a group of This festive season... plans in the pipeline.
friends over, and luckily for me, many of them at JAAN, we’re aiming to elevate the traditional I’m a strong believer
are in F&B or are sommeliers, so they bring Christmas experience. We’ll be serving a beautiful in ‘don’t tell people
along some incredible bottles they’ve been saddle of venison, paired with clean, bright and your plans, but show
saving for years. It’s always a fun moment, fresh vegetables with rich sauces made from all them your results’.
sharing amazing food and wine together on the trimmings. The focus will be on winter and root Watch this space for
Christmas Day. The only difference is, instead vegetables such as Jerusalem artichokes, roasted the new year.
• 36 •
cracker and grated parmesan for added richness. Olivieri 1882, an award-winning, family-run PANETTONE ENCAPSULATES
The bread sauce, made from leftover bread, bakery from Arzignano, Italy. I met the fifth- THE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS
FOR CHEF MIRKO, WHO
miso water, and vegetable stock, is emulsified generation owner, Nicola, a few years ago, and
IS BRINGING A SLICE OF
with olive oil to create a smooth, savoury we immediately connected. He has a brilliant HOME TO SINGAPORE WITH
accompaniment. A topping of toasted bread mind, and I truly respect the thought and THE PANETTONE FESTIVO
crumble and crispy fried onions adds texture technique that they put into every product. AT FICO.
and sweetness, completing the dish. Finally, the We collaborated on a delicious recipe for the
dish is finished with a drizzle of rich pork jus at Fico x Olivieri 1882 Panettone Festivo that
the table. combines the nostalgia of roasted chestnuts
with a hint of bergamot and the indulgence
Every Christmas... of gianduja. I’m glad we have the opportunity
we will receive dozens of panettone. These will to showcase their 140-year heritage with our
sit under the tree until Christmas day. We end up friends here.
with so many that this becomes a breakfast staple
right through February! My dad, in particular, Christmas in Singapore feels...
absolutely adores panettone. He dips it with a different. I come from a small town in Puglia,
little bit of milk in the mornings. so Christmas has always been family-oriented
and cosy. Singapore is super fast-paced! I try
So, to me, the panettone really encapsulates to replicate this as best as I can, for example,
the spirit of Christmas, and I wanted to I invite my mum to Singapore every year
bring a true slice of home to our community for Christmas, and I’ll throw a party with my
in Singapore. This year we are introducing friends and cook at home, just like how we
Panettone Festivo at Fico, in collaboration with used to at my grandparents’ home.
• 38 •
When I was young... French braised dish made with small lobster thermidor, and more. Our social
I lived in Sardinia, Italy, where Christmas and bundles of sheep tripe, usually stuffed club, Madame Claude, will also offer
New Year’s Eve are taken very seriously. They with sheep’s feet, sweetbreads and amazing champagnes at special prices
host big parties (even with fireworks) that last for various herbs and garden vegetables from to complement our caviar bites, which
days. You really don’t stop eating for almost 15 Aveyron. Like I mentioned earlier, I indulge are seasonal snacks that will change
days straight. I also have fond memories from in boudin noir from the Basque country; based on the market.
La Rochelle, France, where dinners with friends andouillette from Troyes; and saucisse
often ended in the morning. Before heading to de diots (sausages of fatty ground pork We will have special dishes throughout
bed, we would indulge in oysters to combat the seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg) the festive season. I’ve decided to
hangover that would come the next day. from Haute-Savoie. I love the powerful introduce special items like oysters,
flavours of these meaty dishes. grilled blue lobster with caviar and
A typical Christmas meal back home featured passion fruit beurre blanc, beef tartare
plenty of seafood — lobsters, scallops, This Christmas at Les Ducs... with seaweed vinaigrette, and more.
langoustines — and a bit of foie gras. But the I have developed a partnership with Sturia
oysters were a must-have every Christmas. Caviar, a French caviar farm located just Next year I would love to...
50 km from my hometown. We’re offering spend more time with my one-year-
Holiday essential dishes include... weekly specials at Les Ducs that will pair old twins, and my wife. As for Les
offal, boudin noir (a tasty combination of fresh perfectly with this caviar. From 1 to 31 Dus, 2025 will be filled with surprises,
pork blood, pork and caramelised onions), December, we’ll offer our “Caviar By The including collaborations that will be
andouillette (a French coarse-grained sausage Gram” special, allowing guests to enjoy announced early next year. Madame
made from the intestine of pork, pepper, from 1g to 500g of this exquisite French Claude will also be hosting wine
wine, onions, and seasonings) and other caviar at a special price. We’ll also have events as part of our “Meet the
delicacies. Unfortunately, it’s quite difficult, if a takeaway menu available from 15 to 31 Winemaker” programme, as well
not impossible, to import these to Singapore. December. It will feature foie gras, volailles as some quarterly party brunch and
So when I go home, I must have tripoux — a aux truffes (roast chicken with truffles), special themed nights.
• 40 •
F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E
F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E
Z
ero-waste. Sustainability. Farm-to-table. Nose-to-tail.
These are just some of the buzzwords that have been
synonymous with modern dining trends. While the
shift towards more sustainable practices is celebrated as a
whole amongst consumers and those in the industry alike,
few truly understand the immense challenges that come with
running a waste-free establishment.
F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E
(FROM LEFT) Doug’s Silo famously operates without a garbage bin, illustrating Albert and his team made a firm decision to cut
“STOUT”; how deeply the zero-waste ethos is embedded into every layer out single-use plastics altogether, but that came
ALBERT FRANCH
of the business. The restaurant uses its own compost machine to with its own set of challenges. “When we started,
SUNYER OF some suppliers just refused to work with us,” he
NOLLA
turn food scraps into nutrient-rich soil, which is then returned to
the farms that supply Silo’s produce — a powerful example of a says. “They couldn’t wrap their heads around
(PHOTOS: SOFIA
KORKALA) closed-loop system. Nolla also operates with a compost machine, delivering products without plastic.”
complete with a software that records everything that ends up
inside the composter to create data so that they can locate Both restaurants also had to educate suppliers.
hotspots on where we fail the most, tackle these failures, and try to Lara mentions having to convince local farmers
make them try to become better. and vendors to cut down on single-use
packaging, while Albert recounts the challenges
“Technically, our composter produces a pre-compost that goes of sourcing ingredients from within a strict 250 km
back to one of our farms — usually a biodynamic farm. They use radius around the Nolla.
this soil-like material as bedding for their animals. Once it absorbs
urine and waste, it is added to the compost pile to mature into
fertiliser for the next season. This way, we ensure that the material
has at least a couple of lives,” Albert explains.
F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E
Finding suppliers who are willing to comply with true cost of farming. We also have high staff costs as we pay our staff
zero-waste standards requires careful vetting and, above average and offer them a holistic benefits package. These are
at times, convincing. Albert shares how they had not associated with running a zero-waste operation but with decisions
to create partnerships with local producers and made in line with our values.”
businesses that were open to using reusable or
biodegradable containers. “It’s not always easy. Similarly, Albert explains that running a zero-waste restaurant doesn’t
Some suppliers agreed to deliver in large crates necessarily mean higher raw material costs. “What drives up costs is
that we returned, while others opted for glass jars labour. “It’s more labour-intensive because everything requires more
or cloth bags,” he says. thought — how do we solve issues that have never been solved
before?” he adds.
Lara also points out how much of their waste-
free packaging effort is about communication But Albert believes the increased costs are justified. “If sustainability
with suppliers and producers. “Our suppliers means something, it’s also about social sustainability. If your staff are
share the same values and philosophy as us. All overworked and underpaid, that’s not sustainable.” Both restaurants
our suppliers go through a process of evaluation also go above and beyond to ensure that they don’t just cut costs by
to understand their processes, measures and sacrificing quality. “I can’t compete with an onion that costs 50 cents
techniques. Farmers and fishermen follow agro- and comes from who knows where. But I know where every ingredient I
ecological practices and have environmental use is from, and that transparency matters.”
impact in mind at every step of their operation
and we learn a lot from them every time we go for FOR SEM, BEING ZERO-WASTE IS NOT A CONCEPT, IT’S AN OPERATING MODEL. THE
a site visit. Whenever there are hurdles, they are CONCEPT IS THE CREATIVE COOKING THAT ARISES FROM THAT OPERATING MODEL.
usually overcome through conversation.
F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E
A sustainable future?
Despite these challenges, SEM, Silo and Nolla are
constantly finding new ways to innovate. These
innovations, however, require significant time,
effort and a willingness to take risks. And these
restaurants have proven that, with perseverance,
zero-waste is not only achievable but can be
creatively liberating.
and more!
T&Cs apply
• 46 •
Celebration
of culinary
craftsmanship
Culinary talents from The Ritz Carlton, Tokyo
craft exquisite dishes and drinks using ingredients
sourced from Japan’s finest producers, with the aim
of preserving cultural heritage through food.
B Y A M Y VA N
P H O T O S : T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N , T O K Y O
BONSAI MASTER
he Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo kicked off the Marriott International
T
KANTA HIROTA
Luxury Group Dining Series in September this year,
drawing gourmands to experience outstanding gastronomy
woven with the best ingredients sourced from Japan. The two-month,
multi-city event spanning locations from Bali to Bangkok, will culminate
at JW Marriott Hotel Singapore from 29 November to 1 December.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
The sold-out sessions at the upscale hotel in Roppongi were made possible
by the brigade of passionate chefs and bartenders who worked tirelessly to
impress everyone with their creations.
At the elegant tatami dining room, the chefs ensure that the
intricate art of kaiseki is underscored by the best seasonal
ingredients, meticulously prepared and elegantly plated.
For instance, guests can savour ingredients such as chestnut,
persimmon, and muscat dressed with tofu; alongside gingko
nut, mukago yam dumpling, peanuts and sweet potato – as
showcased in the current autumn-inspired hassun platter.
For the sake pairing dinner held in September, the restaurant was
adorned with 17 stunning bonsai plants (ranging from 20 to 300
years old) from Omiya Bonsai Village. Guests were served seasonal
tile fish partnered with delicate chrysanthemum petals in a clear
soup, followed by glistening tuna sashimi and a variety of delicate
sushi. Other sublime highlights included the crisp, airy tempura
of prawn, maitake mushroom and eggplant, and the perfectly
grilled wagyu beef fillet. The experience was complete with the
finest sakes (including Rokushu sparkling sake and a special wine
christened “Goes well with beef”).
• 51 •
FOUR-HANDS BRUNCH
A special brunch at Bistronomy Towers was
prepared by Chef de Cuisine Takuji Nakano
in collaboration with Chef Vladimir Veiga
from Michelin-starred LAB by Sergi Arola in
Portugal. The menu, featuring a range of
appetisers followed by mains of poached
seabass and veal with Japanese langoustine,
was matched with green tea, including
Ritz-Carlton Tokyo’s exclusive original blend
of green tea grown in Wazuka, Kyoto. A
highlight of the brunch was the sencha tea
pairing session led by Noriyasu Ueshima, a
tea master and fifth-generation tea farmer
from Wazuka, Kyoto.
Capturing Kyoto’s
seasonal beauty
Chef ’s Table By Katsuhito Inoue offers an imaginative, one-
of-a-kind menu and an unforgettable dining experience that
celebrates flavour, craftsmanship, and an artistry.
B Y A M Y VA N
P H O T O S : T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N , K Y O T O
• 53 •
F O O D / C H E F ’ S TA B L E
THE ONE-OF-A-KIND CHEF’S TABLE IS BASED ON THREE FOUNDATIONS: KYOTO’S LOCALITY, JAPANESE SENSE OF
BEAUTY, AND CHEF KATSUHITO INOUE AND GARDENER KOUKI SUZUKI’S COLLABORATIVE ARTISANAL WORK.
Chef’s Table by Katsuhito Inoue is a hidden gem the 2019 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and awarded
within The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto. Unveiled on one star in the Michelin Guide. He has been in his
4 October, the newly transformed space is a current position since 2019.
feast for both the palate and the eyes. It also
pays homage to Kyoto’s rich culinary heritage, For him, dining is not only about aesthetics and
reimagined through the refined lens of modern flavour but also about promoting well-being and
kaiseki cuisine. harmony with nature. Embracing Kyoto’s tradition of
zero-waste cooking, he draws inspiration from the
Tucked away behind a sliding door is an intimate city’s centuries-old ethos of collective betterment.
space whose table is decked with the most The chef’s philosophy is deeply rooted in Kyoto’s 72
beautiful autumnal arrangement — as if you are micro-seasons, with creations that reflect the ever-
dining in a miniature garden. Positioned just in front changing landscape and seasonal bounty.
of the table is a counter where Chef Katsuhito Inoue
and his team demonstrate their culinary artistry. The culinary journey in this unique space is
elevated via a collaboration with gardener Kouki
The chef was raised in a family with deep culinary Suzuki (who is involved in hand-picking the foliage
roots. His grandfather operated a high-end and flowers). The carefully selected natural granite
wagyu business, and his father ran a prestigious stone for the tabletop enhances the presentation of
steakhouse. After honing his skills in some of the ingredients and chef’s creations. Furthermore,
Europe’s top kitchens, including those in Spain and every element, from the cutlery to the tableware,
Italy, Katsuhito developed a modern approach to has been thoughtfully crafted in collaboration with
cooking while staying true to his family’s traditions. local artisans.
Prior to this, he was head chef at Bvlgari Il In the following interview, the chef tells us more about
Ristorante Luca Fantin, which was ranked 18th in the restaurant’s concept and culinary philosophy.
• 54 •
F O O D / C H E F ’ S TA B L E
The best part of the Chef ’s Table Thoughts on Kyoto’s ingredients and cuisine CHEF INOUE
The heart of the Chef’s Table experience lies in Fresh fish, prawns, octopus, shellfish, CAREFULLY SELECTS
preparing each dish in front of our guests. While and other seafood arrive from Awaji THE IDEAL RICE
GRAIN, WITH A
meticulous preparation is done in advance — from each morning, alongside seasonal Kyoto
METICULOUS FOCUS
carefully handling ingredients to drawing broth vegetables, local eggs, milk, produce grown ON WATER QUALITY
over hours — cooking takes place just in time for by generations of farmers, and meticulously AND PRECISION
serving, with only minimal finishing touches. nurtured beef. These are irreplaceable gifts, IN COOKING
each imbued with a unique life. No two days TECHNIQUES. FOR
THIS RICE CREATION,
Techniques like grilling, boiling, steaming, bring the same ingredients; it is both my role
CHEF BLENDS
and frying are all executed right in front of the and mission as a chef to respect this life and TRADITIONAL
guests, allowing them to experience each dish bring out the best in each. Daily changes JAPANESE FLAVOURS
with all five senses. We believe the essence of in these offerings inspire new creations and WITH INNOVATIVE
the Chef’s Table is for guests to enjoy the full deepen our connection to nature and the GLOBAL TECHNIQUES.
process of creation in real time, from the sizzling cycle of life. We strive to convey the depth
sounds and fragrant aromas to the rising steam and seriousness of this story to our guests,
and vibrant colours, making each moment as inviting them to experience the narrative
memorable as the dish itself. within each ingredient.
• 55 •
F O O D / C H E F ’ S TA B L E
For the ultimate holiday meal, choosing the perfect drink is as important as selecting the food itself. While
traditional pairings like champagne or red wine may be the go-to choices for many, why not explore something
a little more unexpected this year? In the world of beverages, the options are plentiful, and when it comes
to festive meals, variety can elevate your dining experience. Whether you stick to time-honoured classics or
venture into bold and surprising combinations, these recommendations by top sommeliers and bartenders will
inspire you to mix things up this festive season.
• 57 •
Classic combinations Lesley Liu, Odette’s sommelier, Over at Manhattan, one of Singapore’s
Pairing the perfect drink with a festive approaches this by creating contrasts leading cocktail bars, head bartender
meal is no small task, especially when between the dish and the drink. “I Zana Möhlmann shares her approach
the food is rich and indulgent. Holiday prefer cocktails with a drier flavour to pairing cocktails with festive
feast staples like turkey and ham are profile to cut through the richness dishes. “Wine pairing is about finding
often accompanied by substantial and fattiness,” Lesley explains, noting complementary flavours, and cocktail
sides like stuffing, mashed potatoes, that a Negroni, garnished with dried pairing works the same way,” she says.
or glazed vegetables. burnt orange, is a perfect match Zana likes to use spirit-forward drinks with
for turkey. The citrus tones of the strong herbal or smoky notes to stand
garnish enhance the herbal dressings up to the rich, savoury flavours of holiday
commonly used in turkey preparation, meats. A smoky mezcal Negroni or a
providing a delightful balance. robust Vieux Carré, she says, are ideal
companions for turkey or Christmas ham,
She also suggests that an Aperol as their bold flavours create a balance
Spritz, with its bubbly and slightly that wine might not always achieve.
bitter profile, works well when
paired with festive dishes like When it comes to dessert, Zana
ham. “The bubbles refresh the believes that cocktails can provide a
palate, while the rosemary garnish refreshing contrast to the often-sugary
adds a subtle earthy note that ties nature of holiday sweets. “For spiced
everything together,” she says. For desserts like mince pies or poached
wines, Lesley recommends robust pears, I recommend something
reds, such as 2020 Montevertine zingy and fresh,” she explains. A
Toscana ‘Le Pergole Torte’ from Clover Club, with its blend of gin,
Italy. Made from 100% Sangiovese raspberry syrup, and lemon, offers
grapes, this wine offers earthy a bright and fruity counterpoint to
undertones, red fruit notes, and the richness of traditional holiday
strong tannins that help cut through desserts. Meanwhile, a Pisco Punch,
MANHATTAN’S HEAD
meat-heavy dishes. Its vibrant with its lively citrus flavours, adds an
BARTENDER, ZANA MÖHLMANN
acidity also enhances the flavours of extra dimension of zest to a Christmas
turkey or ham without overwhelming pudding, lightening the palate while
the palate. still complementing the spice.
Unexpected pairings
If you’re looking to surprise your guests with
something different, non-alcoholic drinks can
provide just as much depth and flavour as their
alcoholic counterparts. Kate Pascal, assistant
manager and tea specialist at one-Michelin-
starred Japanese restaurant, Esora, suggests
using Japanese teas as an innovative alternative
to traditional wines or champagnes. “One of
the best ways to serve tea at a festive meal is to
carbonate it, making it sparkling,” Kate advises.
She compares the experience to drinking
champagne, with the added complexity of tea’s
delicate flavours. “Sparkling tea opens up the
palate and pairs well with many types of food,”
she adds.
For any festive meal, Lesley believes that the goal is to find
balance and “…to enhance the flavours of the food while
bringing something new to the table.” So this year, don’t
be afraid to step out of your comfort zone – you just might
discover a new holiday tradition in the process.
BOMBER J
Spirited away
From sustainable bottles to new local flavours, raise your glass
to the new wave of spirits recently launched in Singapore.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
I
n a world where sustainability and creativity and beverage industry, turning what might have been (ABOVE) ONE MAN’S
collide, Singapore is a vibrant hub for waste into unique, flavourful offerings. WASTE IS ANOTHER
MAN’S…ALCOHOL?
innovative alcohols that celebrate both
THESE THREE
flavour and the environment. This exciting new Sweet Cascara Vermouth breathes new life into the LIBATIONS FROM
wave of spirits isn’t just about quenching your discarded fruit of the coffee cherry, resulting in a rich, DISCARDED SPIRITS
thirst — it’s about crafting narratives that honour full-bodied vermouth that boasts deep, fruity notes DEMONSTRATE THAT
the past while looking towards a greener future. with layers of complexity. Ideal for crafting a delightful SUSTAINABILITY CAN
BE DELICIOUS TOO.
From inventive gins that evoke fond childhood Cascara Negroni, this vermouth exemplifies the brand’s
memories to bold sakes that challenge innovative approach, seamlessly blending creativity with a
traditional norms, explore new drinks that are commitment to reducing waste in an impactful way.
making waves in Singapore’s spirits scene.
Meanwhile, Banana Peel Rum offers a delightful tropical
Toward a sustainable future twist, ingeniously made from the peels of bananas
Imagine transforming yesterday’s waste into typically discarded after processing. This rum captures the
today’s liquid treasures. Singapore warmly comforting essence of banana bread, making it a perfect
welcomes a trio of innovative spirits from base for cocktails like the Banana Peel Old Fashioned,
Discarded Spirits Co., part of William Grant & where its warm flavours shine through. For those who prefer
Sons, demonstrating that sustainability can be spirit-forward options, Grape Skin Vodka is crafted from
irresistibly delicious. Each of these spirits — Spanish Chardonnay grape pomace, delivering a smooth
Sweet Cascara Vermouth, Banana Peel Rum, mouthfeel and an intricate tapestry of aromas that includes
and Grape Skin Vodka — has been thoughtfully hints of green apple, lychee, and a bold pink peppercorn
crafted from overlooked by-products of the food finish. This is perfect for sipping neat or in creative cocktails.
• 61 •
Go local
Brass Lion Distillery continues to push the boundaries of craft spirits with its
latest creation, Hawthorn Gin, a remarkable spirit that blends Singaporean
nostalgia with artisanal craftsmanship. Drawing inspiration from the beloved
childhood treat of haw flakes, this gin utilises tangy Asian hawthorn berries
to deliver a bright, fruity profile that captures the essence of Singapore. The
flavour is beautifully balanced by a lingering, delicate sweetness, creating
a spirit that pays homage to local culture while being versatile enough for
various cocktail applications.
That’s not all: Brass Lion further reinforces its sustainability commitment
by offering delicious hawthorn fruit strips made from spent botanicals with
every bottle — these strips serve as a tasty snack and a charming cocktail HAWTHORN GIN AND TONIC, COMPLETE WITH
garnish, further minimising waste and celebrating local flavours. AN ORANGE TWIST
F O FOODO /D F/E X
STXI V E
Holiday Feast
Celebrate this joyous season with classic fare from Wolfgang’s Steakhouse
S
pecial occasions call for an exceptional experience, The meal is perfectly complemented by decadent sides like
and there’s no better venue to celebrate the festive creamy mac n’ cheese, fried onion rings, sautéed mushrooms,
season than at Wolfgang’s Steakhouse by Wolfgang and the steakhouse’s popular creamed spinach. For a sweet
Zwiener, nestled within the Intercontinental Singapore finale, Wolfgang’s signature Chocolate Yule Log, wheeled to the
Robertson Quay. diner’s table on a traditional dessert trolley, completes the dining
experience with a flourish.
The month of December will be one to remember as the
restaurant presents an exclusive Christmas set menu. Not to be missed from the beverage menu is the White Noel cocktail,
Available for two ($428) and four guests ($828), the feast a whimsical tipple that fits the spirit of the season. Blending vodka,
begins with your choice of the soup of the day or a richly Baileys, caramel toffee, creamy white cacao blue curaçao, the drink is
indulgent lobster bisque, followed by an array of premium delicately finished with a hint of dried cranberry for a velvety treat.
entrées which showcase the restaurant’s expertise with
premium cuts such as the 100% USDA Prime Ribeye Steak In addition to the Christmas set menu, Wolfgang’s offers a festive
and the USDA Prime Filet Mignon; as well as Grilled King lunch menu daily until 4pm, featuring select favourites for those who
Salmon and Colorado Lamb Chops. wish to enjoy their celebration in a more relaxed atmosphere.
The voice of autumn
René Redzepi and the Noma team return to Japan’s Ace Hotel Kyoto for a
second Noma Kyoto pop-up, capturing the spirit of Autumn in a tasting menu
replete with seasonal mushrooms, full-flavoured game, and resplendent foliage.
B Y R E N Y I L I M , P H O T O S B Y N O M A K Y O T O / M I T S U R U WA K A B A Y A S H I
“P
sst - you’re not supposed to eat the leaf!” my In my defence, leaves play a leading role in Noma’s 10-week
dining companion whispers from across the residency at Ace Hotel Kyoto — the second of its kind — which
table. I look down in horror at the fig leaf I’ve runs from 8 October to 18 December this year. About 5,000
been nibbling, along with the piece of fruit leather on pressed and hand-sewn leaves dangle inside the restaurant in
top of it. Our waiter looks thoroughly amused (“It’s is the a kaleidoscope of autumnal colours, while pristine greenery
first time it’s happened this season!” he chuckles) before accompanies many of the dishes on this year’s menu as
reassuring me that I’ll live through the night. Perhaps the decorative, textural, and aromatic elements. Fall is out in full
inadvertent ingestion of foliage is par for the course during force at this collaboration between Noma and Atelier Ace, which
lunch or dinner at Noma Kyoto — and in the spirit of — inevitably — was fully booked within an hour of reservations
autumn, too. being released.
• 65 •
T R AV E L / N O M A K Y OTO
(CLOCKWISE, FROM OPPOSING PAGE) KING CRAB LEG items such as kuromoji (spice bush) stems, Aomori pine, and kabosu citrus
ATOP OHARA-FORAGED LEAVES; DANISH CHEF RENÉ fruits. “Actually, the ingredients that wow me the most are things that we
REDZEPI, CO-OWNER OF NOMA; MYOGA IN AMAZAKE
SAUCE; FOREST BROTH AND HUSCUP BERRY FRUIT
take for granted, in the sense that they’re usually available elsewhere —
LEATHER LEAF. but when you have them here, they’re fresh and it’s picked on the same
day,” Kenneth remarks.
T R AV E L / N O M A K Y OTO
also make you feel like you’re in the middle of generously in egg yolk, sukiyaki-style. Portions of wild deer, newly plumped in
a Kanazawa forest?” Bathed in a delicate sauce preparation for Japan’s colder months, are served as part of a hot pot course
derived from tomato water, the waxy texture of with pearlescent ribbons of fat, partnered with bairingu mushrooms, seaweed-
the ginkgo nuts and crumbling crunch of the cured yuba skin, and a dipping sauce of sunflower seeds and shiso flowers.
pinecones are unlike anything I’ve ever eaten —
or may ever eat again. It is, however, a lightness of touch that shows Noma Kyoto at its most
magically transportive during the 14-course meal. A salad of pink myoga
Embracing the spontaneity of every season is ginger, Japanese tsuru-murasaki spinach, seaweed, a parsley and sansho
deeply embedded in Noma’s DNA, and that holds pepper paste, and a sauce of jasmine, amazake (a fermented rice drink), and
true in Kyoto too. “Things change. It’s what we bergamot is by turns intriguing and perplexing, tasting of soap, perfume,
always tell our cooks,” Kenneth says, pointing and fragrant flowers. A warm forest broth concocted from mushrooms,
out that Japan’s abundance of micro-climates pine, and sansho arrives concealed beneath green and red Japanese maple
can proffer fabulous produce that’s only available leaves, which we’re encouraged to stick our faces into. I picture wind-teased
for, say, 10 days. “There’s something magical treetops before biting into sharply sour fruit leather made of wild huscup
about the fleeting nature of having really cool berries gathered in Hokkaido (and misguidedly, the leaf beneath it).
ingredients to work with, but only for the blink of
an eye — then it goes away. When we have things A sense of illusory playfulness permeates the final three courses, starting with
we’ve never seen before that aren’t available sweet oysters composed of milk ice cream, mikan compote, and milk crumbs,
outside of Japan, it’s like being kids in a candy all shaped in individual silicone moulds that are painted using seven different
store: we’re curious and we just want to taste, colours, and intended to be eaten shell and all. Warm chestnut custard with
touch, and smell everything.” pumpkin seeds, hojicha tea gel, and caviar appear in a hollowed-out, bur-
covered Japanese chestnut, looking strangely akin to a sea urchin. And a
Heartier dishes rooted in the seas and ground whole peanut constructed from peanut mousse is eaten with a Mexican-style
echo that mingling of transience and wonder: chocolate sauce, elderflower oil, and a single candied pinecone.
sliced shiro bagai sea snails from Fukui prefecture
served with barbecued squares of Noma’s Encapsulating autumn within a tasting menu is a feat to marvel at, and Noma
barley koji; black rice cooked in Kyoto spring Kyoto has managed to capture the season’s earthy glory, stirringly evocative
water with kelp salt and squid sauce; and meaty details, and ephemeral nature (what the Japanese might refer to as wabi-
abalone mushrooms with a whisky glaze, expertly sabi) with characteristic imagination and a boldness of vision. To experience it
caramelised over a grill before being dipped all again, I’d gladly eat another leaf — or, for that matter, an entire bushel.
• 67 •
S PE C I A L F E AT U R E
I
n June 2024, Sopexa evolved and
changed its name to HOPSCOTCH
Season. This fresh transformation
marks a new era driven by a fitting
ambition to extend their food &
beverage expertise to the lifestyle and
cultural experiences that enrich lives
around the world.
T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D
B Y A M Y VA N
PHOTOS SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION AND SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE
• 69 •
T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D
(ABOVE) SOL THE SEMI-WILD KANGAROO RETURNS TO SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE FOR A VISIT.
(BELOW) STROLL ALONG THE BOARDWALK FOR THE BEST OCEAN VIEWS.
M
ost people may not realise that
Kangaroo Island is similar in size to Bali,
and six times bigger than Singapore.
Australia’s third largest island, located 13km off
the mainland of South Australia, is blessed with
rugged coastlines and pristine waters. A third
of its area is protected nature reserves, home
to diverse wildlife such as koalas, kangaroos,
wallabies, sea lions, fur seals, and echidnas. You
might even encounter some of these animals
roaming freely in their habitat. The vegetation surrounding the resort have also
regenerated, including the resilient yucca trees with their
The Black Summer bushfires of 2020 – the largest bushy palms, known for their ability to thrive after fires.
in Kangaroo Island's recorded history – burned
nearly half of the island and affected vast numbers Even Sol, the lodge’s semi-blind and semi-wild resident
of wildlife. Four years later, the landscape has kangaroo, has returned for a visit. Hand-raised as an
returned to its natural glory. orphan by the lodge, Sol was thought to have perished
in the bushfire. However, he cleverly sheltered under
The iconic Southern Ocean Lodge (SOL), set the sprinkler system to save himself. Half a dozen staff
on the picturesque cliffs of the southwest coast, members who remained at the lodge during the fires
was razed in the fires. The owners committed also survived by taking refuge in bunkers. When Sol
to rebuilding the 25-suite property, which was reappeared after the bushfire, it reaffirmed to everyone
successfully reconstructed and reopened in that Kangaroo Island is a place of remarkable resilience
December 2023. and wonder.
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Signature experiences
Today, guests of the luxury lodge are welcomed
back to its brand new premises. The highlight
of your stay will be participating in the various
signature experiences and discovering the island’s
natural attractions.
T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D
If you’re eager for more encounters with furry wildlife, (FROM TOP) PAUSE TO TAKE IN THE OCEAN VIEWS ON YOUR WAY TO
your guide can take you to the Hanson Bay Sanctuary, THE ADMIRALS ARCH; SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE'S LOUNGE HAS A
SELF-SERVE OPEN BAR WITH A WIDE RANGE OF BEVERAGES.
where koalas can be spotted snoozing in the treetops
after feasting on eucalyptus leaves. In the evenings,
you be immersed in the history of the early settlers at
Grassdale, enjoying drinks and snacks as kangaroos
venture out to graze.
T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D
(FROM TOP) DURING BREEZY EVENINGS, UNWIND AT SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE'S OUTDOOR AREA COMPLETE WITH A
MODERN FIREPLACE; PICK YOUR FAVOURITE SIPS IN THE WALK-IN CELLAR; FEAST ON KANGAROO ISLAND PRODUCE AT
THE LODGE'S RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW.
T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D
(FROM TOP) THE LODGE'S FLINDERS SUITE BATHROOM WITH SEA VIEWS; SAYING GOODBYE TO THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE IS VERY TOUGH
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Capital interest
The landscape is pristine, the community is diverse, and the culinary scene is outstanding.
Here’s why Canberra should be on every food lover’s radar.
B Y A M Y VA N
PHOTOS: VISIT CANBERRA AND TOURISM AUSTRALIA
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CANBERRA BOASTS WORLD CLASS MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES LIKE THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF AUSTRALIA.
E
veryone knows that Canberra is Australia’s and oak trees, followed by fabulous truffle-
capital, where politicians convene for serious inspired meals.
sessions at the parliament. But the city’s
appeal extends beyond well-known landmarks Another bonus point is Canberra’s convenience:
like the Parliament House, the Australian War most attractions and activities are within a 15-to
Memorial, the National Gallery of Australia, and 20-minute drive, free from the traffic jams that
the National Museum of Australia. While these plague larger cities. The city’s proximity to stunning
iconic sites are significant, enlightening, and worth natural landscapes only adds to its appeal. And
visiting, Canberra might sometimes be perceived to get there is easy — just one-hour flight from
as a little bit formal and sterile – at least to those Melbourne or three hours’ drive from Sydney.
unfamiliar with its hidden charms.
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Modern dining
Sightseeing can be accomplished in a day
or two in Canberra, but be sure to weave in
culinary experiences or a caffeine fix when
you are in town. Firstly, swing by one of the
city’s modern restaurants, which rival those in
Melbourne and Sydney.
T R AV E L / C A N B E R R A
(ABOVE) CANBERRA GLASSWORKS IS A HUGE GLASS MAKING FACILITY WHERE YOU CAN WATCH GLASS ARTISTS AT WORK.
(BELOW) CAPITAL BREWING CO COLLABORATED WITH BRODBURGER TO ROLL OUT A HOST OF SUPERB BURGERS AND BEERS.
After your visit, pop by next door for a good meal of burgers and beers.
Capital Brewing Co is one of the largest independent craft breweries in
Australia. Be sure to try their seasonal releases, which is rolled out three
times a year. These special editions are designed to complement the Core
Range and Special Release beers, and are often crowd favourites from
previous small batch releases.
On cooler evenings, huddle at the long communal tables and enjoy cold
beer right next to the tank where it was brewed. Match your drinks with
some of the best burgers around. Capital Brewing’s team collaborated with
Brodburger to offer top-notch burgers and hotdogs. The range of creations
include flamed-grilled beef patties stacked with bacon, homemade aioli and
tomato relish. For something even more substantial, go for the sirloin steak
with bacon, egg, caramelised onion, beetroot, bbq aioli and tomato relish.
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Truffle hunting
For a unique experience, visit Beltana, a small truffle orchard
(truffière) that boasts luxe accommodations and a superb
restaurant. Tucked away in picturesque Pialligo, Beltana Farm
is planted with over 800 trees.
Alice explains that the trees are a mix of hazelnut and oak,
inoculated with fungi and spread across about three and a
half acres. “The truffle starts its life cycle roughly in October,
become fully grown by January and February depending on
the weather, and starts to ripen in May,” she shares.
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T R AV E L / P H U Q U O C
La Dolce Vita
The arrival of La Festa Phu Quoc, Curio Collection by Hilton on
Vietnam’s picturesque ‘Pearl Island’ brings a sophisticated injection of
Mediterranean glamour to the Italian-inspired Sunset Town development.
BY RENYI LIM
P H O T O S B Y L A F E S TA P H U Q U O C , C U R I O C O L L E C T I O N B Y H I LT O N
Blessed with stretches of sandy white beaches along its 150km the arrival of the first Curio Collection by Hilton property in
coastline, sparkling seas, and an abundance of year-round Vietnam, selected for its distinctive architecture and design,
sunshine, the island of Phu Quoc justifiably deserves its moniker of one-of-a-kind curated experiences, and polished culinary
‘Pearl Island’. Set in the Gulf of Thailand towards the southernmost offerings - all of the brand’s characteristic calling cards.
part of Vietnam, the country’s largest island was renowned for its
natural beauty as early as the French colonial era, but has only Clearly determined to do things differently from the outset,
recently embarked on the process of being developed into a La Festa Phu Quoc is located in Sunset Town, which takes its
premium tourist destination. name from the hillside’s reputation as a spectacular sunset-
viewing spot. The development — an intriguing blend of real
The newest addition to Phu Quoc’s small but selective luxury estate, hospitality, and entertainment — has been constructed
hotel scene is La Festa Phu Quoc, Curio Collection by Hilton — to resemble a picturesque coastal Italian village, right down to
an Amalfi Coast-inspired resort replete with Italian charm and its Taormina-style townhouses, candy-coloured pastel buildings,
personality. Its official opening in February this year marked Greco-Roman statues, and an imitation Colosseum.
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A 75m-tall red brick clock tower based on the bell tower of St Mark's
Basilica in Venice even serves as a landmark for the hotel. This can be easily
spotted during the 25-minute car journey from Phu Quoc International
Airport. There are also subtler ways in which La Festa Phu Quoc brings the
Mediterranean la dolce vita to its guests, such as the citrus-flavoured iced
slushies (a nod to the zesty zing of prized Amalfi lemons) presented as a
signature welcome ritual and the Italian-accented interiors of the property’s
(CLOCKWISE, FROM OPPOSITE PAGE) THE TROPICAL
197 rooms and suites. ISLAND OF PHU QUOC RECIEVES AROUND 2,370
SUNSHINE HOURS PER YEAR; THE BRICK CLOCK TOWER
Vibrant splashes of terracotta and cerulean are tempered with calm RISING FROM LA FESTA PHU QUOC, CURIO COLLECTION
BY HILTON WAS BASED ON ST. MARK’S CAMPANILE IN
white walls, voluptuously arched ceilings, and delicate terrazzo surfaces, VENICE; GUESTS AT THE HOTEL HAVE AN IMPRESSIVE
transforming all 13 room categories — from a King Classico Room to the 13 ROOM CATAGORIES TO CHOOSE FROM.
supersized, split-level King Dolce Vita Suite — into a stylish private haven
that overlooks the ocean. Securing a room with a Juliet- or loggia-style
balcony is an ideal way to marvel at the island’s breathtaking sunsets, which
frequently span a full technicolour display of blazing yellow, royal blue,
violet, and rose pink.
While the resort will appeal to travellers who have neither the time nor
the patience to make the long journey over to Europe (along with those
drawn in by the unusual prospect of exploring a corner of Italy within the
perimeter of Southeast Asia), Vietnamese-focused hospitality experiences
play as equally important a role at La Festa Phu Quoc as those that
espouse the continental glamour of a holiday along the Italian Riviera.
The aesthetic detailing of eforea spa, for instance, pays tribute to both
the pebble-lined beaches of Italy and the purple myrtle flowers scattered
across Phu Quoc’s hills. The spa’s Saigon Heritage massage employs the
use of aromatic Vietnamese herbal poultices.
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Authentic dining
The all-day dining venue The Merchant also
bridges the geographical gap between Italy and
Vietnam by serving dishes from both culinary
cultures. For international guests who rarely
venture beyond national favourites like ph鄙
bò (beef noodles), it’s a prime opportunity to
sample some of the country’s region-specific
cuisine, infused with fresh northern herbs or the
assertive spice levels of central Vietnam. (For
the record, La Festa Phu Quoc’s Executive Chef,
Brett Muller, is still immensely proud of their
ph鄙. It remains a staple during The Merchant’s
breakfast service, and he considers it to be on
par with what’s offered at local ph鄙 stalls.)
T R AV E L / P H U Q U O C
Beyond the hotel artists, which means that evenings in Sunset Town are always
Guests at La Festa Phu Quoc won’t have to venture guaranteed to be lively.
far from the property in search of activities or
amusement. Inquisitive travellers who fancy a day An extravagant seven-minute firework display signals the conclusion
trip beyond Sunset Town might enjoy a visit to one of the show, but for guests who’ve decided to embrace La Festa Phu
of the island’s burgeoning pearl farms or a family-run Quoc’s ethos of celebrating the joy of life, that may well mean that the
production facility that makes sweet ruou sim (rose party’s only just getting started.
myrtle) wine, which is said to be an excellent local
digestif. Those with a head for heights can take the
Hon Thom Cable Car — which travels a distance of
(FROM TOP) THE LIGHT-FILLED LOBBY OF LA FESTA PHU QUOC TAKES INSPIRATION
almost eight km and holds a Guinness World Record FROM THE CERAMIC WORKSHOPS OF ITALY; BETWEEN 24TH DECEMBER TO 1ST
as the world’s longest three-wire cable car — to the JANUARY EVERY YEAR, THE SUN SETS PRECISELY BETWEEN THE TWO ENDS OF
islet of Hon Thom, giving passengers a dazzling KISS BRIDGE, MAKING IT PERFECT FOR INSTAGRAM-CONSCIOUS COUPLES.
L A S T CO U R S E / C H R I S T M A S T R E ATS
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