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NOVEMBER 2024

DRINKS
Unconventional
drink pairings
for your
Christmas feast

TRAVEL
Experience
Kangaroo Island’s
resilience and
revival

FOOD

The Art of Edible Gifting


Artisanal inspirations and festive surprises
NOVEMBER 2024

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EPICUREASIA.COM
NOVEMBER 2024 / EDITOR'S NOTE

PHOTO SOUTH AUSTRALIAN


TOURISM COMMISSION

As we wrap up the year, let's take a moment to Italy, and France (who are now based in Singapore).
reflect on our personal culinary journeys and travel They weave nostalgia, family traditions, and culinary
experiences in 2024. creativity into dishes that celebrate the essence of
Some of my fondest memories this year included the holiday season.
marvelling at the sight of baby sea lions napping on We also feature an exclusive experience at The
the sun-dappled shores of Kangaroo Island, in South Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto’s hidden gem – Chef’s Table by
Australia. The Seal Bay Conservation Park is home to Katsuhito Inoue. Here, the artistry and dedication to
these endangered species – typically threatened by fine produce come alive in an intimate space, where
gillnets used by commercial fisheries to catch sharks. every dish is injected with precision and passion. Even
We learned that Kangaroo island's resilient the pure water used to create stocks is sourced from a
landscape has revived after the devastating bushfires sacred shrine in Kyoto.
of 2020. The destination is now welcoming visitors For those seeking the perfect gift this holiday
from near and far to sample its many gourmet season, this issue is brimming with inspiration. From
and vinous offerings. The Southern Ocean Lodge, indulgent sweet treats, charcuterie and roasts to
which was burned down in the bushfire, has also elegant sake and limited-edition whiskies, we have
been beautifully rebuilt. It is the perfect retreat for curated a selection that celebrates the joy of giving –
gourmands seeking an escape from the urban bustle or for that matter, sharing – fine food and drink.
to enjoy tranquillity woven with loads of luxury. Here’s to a season filled with warm gatherings,
Another exciting highlight was joining the exquisite flavours, and lasting memories
top chefs of The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo, for an early May your Christmas and New Year be a truly
morning exploration of the sprawling Toyosu Fish delicious one. See you in 2025!
Market, where the energy of tradition met the day’s
freshest catch. Seeing how the chefs deliberated
over the day’s catch with their trusted suppliers was
an eye-opener.
In this issue, we share the childhood Christmas
memories of four top chefs from Spain, England,
Amy Van Editor

EPICUREASIA.COM
NOVEMBER 2024 / CONTENTS

FOOD /

9
Thoughtful artisanal and edible presents
54
for an unforgettable Christmas.

20
From the heat of the kitchen to the
pressure of the judges, these two
contestants from Culinary Class Wars
recount their journey during Netflix’s
hottest cooking show.

27
Two women who run their own gourmet
businesses are making quality food the
centrepiece of every occasion.

32 40
These zero-waste pioneers are reshaping
Four European chefs who now call
modern dining with creative solutions to
Singapore home share their Christmas
sustainability’s toughest challenges.
food memories and traditions from their
childhood.
46
Culinary talents from The Ritz Carlton,
Tokyo craft exquisite dishes and drinks
using ingredients sourced from Japan’s
finest producers, with the aim of
preserving cultural heritage through food.

52
Chef’s Table By Katsuhito Inoue offers
an imaginative menu and unforgettable
dining experience, celebrating Kyoto’s
flavour, craftsmanship, and artistry.

DRINKS /

56
Discover fresh takes on holiday drinks
with expert pairings that bring a twist to
your festive spread.

40
NOVEMBER 2024 / CONTENTS

83
TRAVEL /
74 Canberra
64 Kyoto The landscape is pristine, the
René Redzepi and the Noma team community is diverse, and the
return to Japan for a second Noma culinary scene is outstanding.
Kyoto pop-up, capturing the spirit of Here’s why Canberra, Australia’s
autumn in a tasting menu replete with
seasonal mushrooms, full-flavoured
game, and resplendent foliage.
capital, should be on every food
lover’s radar. 69
80 Phu Quoc
68 Kangaroo Island The arrival of La Festa Phu Quoc, COVER IMAGE: PETIT DÉSIRÉ FROM
Kangaroo Island’s resilience has been Curio Collection by Hilton on HUIZE VAN WELY
evident over the past few years. Vietnam’s picturesque ‘Pearl CREDIT: HUIZE VAN WELY
Following the devasting Black Summer Island’ brings a sophisticated
bushfires of 2020, the destination, injection of Mediterranean
known for its pristine wilderness, has glamour to the Italian-inspired
bounced back. Sunset Town development.
• 9 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

The art
of

edible gifting
Thoughtful artisanal and edible presents for an unforgettable Christmas
BY ERIS CHOO

The season of sharing is here, and there’s no better way to spread holiday cheer than with artisanal
and edible gifts that reflect the love and meticulous thought that have gone into making each item.
From sustainable tableware and delicate porcelain pieces to indulgent caramels, cheeses, festive
hampers and fine wines, this year’s curated list of gift ideas are sure to delight loved ones and make the
celebrations a little more special.
• 10 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

Huize Van Wely


Make it a magical Christmas with the finest Dutch confections from Huize van
Wely. The revered century-old Dutch patisserie and chocolatier – headquartered
in Noordwijk and with retail outlets in Haarlem, Heemstede, Amsterdam, and
Jakarta – recently debuted at the Raffles Singapore. The store here presents
some of the brand’s most celebrated pastries, ice cream and chocolates, on
top of fine wines, champagnes, and cocktails. The signature Champagne cake
(pictured left) makes a wonderful gift, composed of layers of white chocolate,
Moët & Chandon champagne cream ganache, and an airy almond sponge
covered in marzipan and a delicate dark chocolate shell. Bouchées are as
adorable as they sound: creamy chocolate bonbons layered with ganache,
gianduja, or marzipan and enrobed in decadent chocolate. Of course, one
cannot go wrong with the classics, so Chocolate Truffles are the way to go if
you’re looking for a more traditional gourmet gift to indulge in with loved ones.
• 11 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

The Caramelier
For those looking for something beyond the usual chocolate gifts, The
Caramelier has a fine collection of handcrafted soft caramels. Made in
small batches with European milk and French butter, the caramels come
in six signature flavours, ranging from savoury and nutty to floral and
fruity. The original Pink Salt caramel (above) delivers the perfect balance
of sweet and salty, while the Roasted Pecan adds a nutty richness with
buttery undertones. Coffee lovers will adore the Coffee caramel, made with
premium Ethiopian coffee beans for a creamy yet slightly bitter finish. A love
letter to Singaporean heritage, the Gula Melaka Coconut caramel (pictured
right) marries rich palm sugar with tropical coconut and fragrant pandan.
Sophisticated options like Raspberry Rose and Earl Grey add a touch of
elegance to the festivities. Don’t miss the limited-edition Vanilla Spice that
evokes the nostalgia of the holidays, with its aromatic blend of spices like
cinnamon, nutmeg, and premium Madagascar vanilla. thecaramelier.com
• 12 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

If you’re putting together your own festive feast at


Lush Platters home, elevate the celebrations with Lush Platters’
Artisanal boutique caterer Lush Platters offers a signature grazing tables or a hot dish buffet which
unique way to spread joy and deliciousness to features warm dishes like Baked Salmon with Fried
loved ones. Their festive gift boxes are packed Capers, Creamy Lemon Garlic and Dill Sauce,
with a sumptuous array of cheeses, charcuterie, Slow Cooked Beef Cheeks with Carrots in Red
fresh fruits, nuts, and artisanal crackers — all Wine, and Tamarind Pumpkin, Tofu and Spinach
artfully arranged and ready to impress. For Curry with Toasted Coconut and Lime. The main
an indulgent treat made for sharing, opt for courses are accompanied by fresh salads such
platters that include gourmet dips, antipasti, and as the Quinoa Superfood Salad or Baby Gem
handcrafted sweets. You can also add a personal Wedge Salad. Finish on a sweet note with desserts
touch with a custom message or upgrade the gift like Chocolate Ganache Tartlets or Mini Caramel
with fine wines and specialty items. Donuts. lushplatters.com
• 13 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

golden, flaky puff pastry. The delicious dish is


finished with a fragrant thyme and maple glaze,
paired with house-made cranberry sauce and a
luxurious truffle port jus. For dessert, there’s the
Apple and Rhubarb Custard Pie with housemade
custard and tangy rhubarb puree, nestled within
a delicate sourdough tart, and finished with a
luscious maple glaze.
Marymount Bakehouse
Marymount Bakehouse, the beloved bakery If you’re looking for additional gifts, the
famed for its naturally fermented sourdough bakehouse’s new cafe at Farrer Park has a
loaves, brings something new to the table this whole slew of curated sourdough creations at
Christmas with a show-stopping centrepiece its Boulangerie section, with unique yet familiar
that leverages on its sourdough expertise: the flavours like Tomatillo Salsa Verde, a special take
Marymount Wellington. Good for six to eight on herbed bread with the intermingling aromas of
people, the dish is unique in that it replaces house made tomato salsa, garlic confit, coriander,
the usual beef with tender Hungarian turkey and lime zest; and the Oolong Chocolate Chip
breast, brined in-house for maximum flavour. Sourdough, a Lunar New Year festive offering that
The turkey is layered with an earthy mushroom has turned into a mainstay feature, with subtle
duxelle and burnt leeks, before being encased notes of oolong tea and 75% Dark Chocolate
in delicate sourdough crepes and wrapped in Chip. marymountbakehousesg.com
• 14 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

Saint Pierre
They say the best gift you can give someone is time — so
take the hassle out of prepping for holiday gatherings
and order a sumptuous feast from Saint Pierre. Not to
be missed are Saint Pierre’s Christmas classics: the Black
Truffle Marble Foie Gras Terrine or the Armagnac-marinated
Foie Gras Terrine, as well as starters of Green Tea-smoke
Wild Salmon and Truffle-scented Mushroom Soup. For the
gathering’s centrepiece, the Roasted Whole Capon with
chestnut, mushroom, and foie gras stuffing with herbed
truffle jus is sure to impress guests. Other meaty options
include The Maple-Bourbon Glazed Ham, 7-hour Braised
Lamb Shoulder with lemon confit, coriander and cumin,
Boneless Lamb Saddle with thyme, rosemary and lamb jus,
200-day Aged Angus Beef Rib Eye “En Croûte” with black
pepper and thyme jus, and Whole Salt-crusted, Dry-aged
“Côte de Boeuf” 7 Ribs. Complement the mains with
scrumptious sides such as Gratin Dauphinois, Truffled Mash
Potato, Mac and Cheese with Truffle, and Roasted Winter
Root Vegetable. Cap off the festivities with the Mont Blanc
Tart, an almond sucre tart filled with Tochiotome strawberry
compote, Korean chestnut-rum cream, and a light and crisp
vanilla meringue. For pre-orders, call: +65 6438 0887

Little Farms
Little Farms presents a staple of artisanal selections, beautifully
packaged and ready for gifting. New to the festive hampers
this year are Cartwright & Butler Shortbread Biscuits: these
buttery, creamy, and crumbly treats are from a family-run
UK-based company with over 115 years of heritage in biscuit-
making. The classic Italian Bonifanti Panettone, made using
fine ingredients and a slow fermentation process is back this
season. Other delights in the hampers include Montezuma
Chocolates, Mondo Nougat Bars, Giant Sevillana Manzanilla
Olives, Org Demeter teas, nuts, and a range of wines and
champagnes. Better yet, put together a bespoke order for your
own custom-created hamper. littlefarms.com/festive
• 15 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

Costa Verde
Costa Verde’s gorgeous tableware and decorative
pieces make for thoughtful gifts for anyone who
loves to entertain at home. And they’re made
with sustainability in mind too. The brand’s highly
sought-after porcelain pieces are made through
sustainable processes that recover industrial
waste and reintroduce them into the value chain,
which not only reduces the amount of resources
and energy needed, but also creates lovely,
unique pieces.

Natural materials like quartz, clay, feldspar, and


kaolin are combined precisely to form porcelain
paste, then bisque-fired at high temperatures for
hours before glazing and re-firing, which makes
the pieces extremely resistant. Costa Verde’s
Endless Collection is a beautiful display of this
artistry, comprising three vases and a bowl in
irregular but graceful forms. Its Mood collections,
named after the characteristics they embody,
capture various expressions such as Moody,
Neutral, Dreamy, and Flirty in colourful, elegant
hues. costa-verde.com/en/
• 16 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

Iwa 5
Whether for the seasoned sake enthusiast or
those new to the world of Japanese spirits, an
elegant bottle of IWA 5 Assemblage 5 is the
perfect sentiment for the holiday season. Crafted
in the heartlands of Japan, this premium sake
marks a new chapter in masterful blending
(assemblage) techniques by former Dom
Pérignon Chef de Cave, Richard Geoffroy, as he
builds on the success of previous assemblages
while boldly venturing into new territory.
Assemblage 5 harmoniously balances warmth,
depth, and vitality with an avant-garde flair,
blending different rice varieties such as Yamada
Nishiki, Omachi, and Gohyakumangoku to create
a complex yet refined and aromatic profile
with delicate floral and fruity notes. The sleek,
minimalist bottle design also adds a touch of
sophistication, making it a memorable gift that
looks as exquisite as it tastes. iwa-sake.sg

Royal Salute
The Royal Salute’s Asia-exclusive 24-Year-Old Cognac Cask
Finish is a first from the iconic whisky label. Crafted under
the guidance of Scottish whisky legend and Master Blender
Sandy Hyslop, this exclusive expression blends exceptional
single malts from Strathisla and Longmorn, before ageing
them for 24 years in the rarest and finest first-fill French oak
cognac casks. The result is a prized liquid with a beautiful
gold-copper hue, with notes of dark cherries and toasted
oak, sweet marzipan, caramelised figs, and peaches in syrup.
The extended maturation in first-fill cognac casks also reveals
wonderfully complex depths and fruity flavours, reminiscent
of summer berry compote and apricot jam, with a lingering
hint of freshly grounded nutmeg to complement a long
and rich finish. A magnificent beverage deserves an equally
opulent vessel: in this case a limited-edition flagon in striking
red that is designed with gifting in mind, housed in exquisite
packaging that features details such as pheasants and cranes
to symbolise good luck, and oriental flowers like peonies and
chrysanthemums to represent prosperity and joy.
• 17 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

Johnnie Walker
Capturing winter wonder, whisky craftsmanship, unique blend that reveals an indulgent nose of
and alpine luxury all bottled in one, the new sweet creamy vanilla with spiced apples and
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ice Chalet makes plums, paired with a fruity palate of apples and
for an unforgettable Christmas gift. This limited berries, and finished with a soft fruity spice
edition whisky, crafted in partnership with luxury with a gentle smoke. The gift also includes a
ski brand Perfect Moment, draws inspiration striking deep blue bottle wrapped in Perfect
from blue hour – that magical twilight hour when Moment’s signature houndstooth and star logo,
skiers leave the slopes to gather around the accompanied by a reversible crossbody bag
warmth of the fireside. which functions as a stylish accessory perfect for
both snowy slopes and city streets. The Johnnie
Bringing these enchanting après-ski moments Walker Blue Label Ice Chalet can be purchased
to life is Master Blender Emma Walker, with a at https://asher.sg and selected retailers.
• 18 •

FOOD / EDIBLE GIFTS

Penfolds
Penfolds’ latest holiday collection lets you gift
in style with the release of Holiday Designed
by NIGO — a collectable series of four unique
gift boxes by Penfolds Creative Partner NIGO.
Available for a limited time only, NIGO boldly
reinterprets the graphic chequered pattern often
found in traditional textiles and presents them in
the signature holiday colours of Red, Green, Blue,
and Black.

The hero of the collection is the Penfolds


Red design which holds the Penfolds Bin 389
Cabernet Shiraz, fondly known as the ‘Baby
Grange’, a favourite among red wine drinkers
for its sweet balance of fruit and oak. The box
includes a playful puffy ‘pillow’ texture effect
that further brings the design to life. Penfolds
Bin 311 Chardonnay comes encased in a festive
green pattern; the Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz is
enclosed within a striking blue cylinder gift box
with gold foil embellishments, while Penfolds
Max’s (Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz
Cabernet) features a bold and distinctive black
chequered pattern. Wrap the gift beautifully in
wrapping cloths that complement the gift boxes’
vibrant colours. penfolds.com

Coravin
Wine connoisseurs will enjoy Coravin’s Timeless range, which
now comes in a stylish Forest Green colour for the holidays,
alongside the return of its popular Deep Sea Blue Timeless
Three+ shade. Part of Coravin’s Six+ system, the revolutionary
device allows wine lovers to enjoy their beverages at their
own pace, without having to worry about compromising on
the quality of their opened wine bottle. Using a precision-
engineered needle, the system delicately pierces the cork to
extract wine while simultaneously replacing it with argon gas,
ensuring that oxygen never compromises the wine’s integrity.
Once the needle is removed, the cork expands back to its
normal shape, so the wine remains as fresh as the day it was
bottled. In line with the season’s gifting spirit and also the
brand’s commitment to reducing its carbon footprint, Coravin
pledges to plant a tree for every limited-edition Forest Green
Timeless Six+ system sold on coravin.com.
• 20 •

F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S

Face-Off
From the heat of the kitchen to the pressure of the judges, these two contestants from
Culinary Class Wars recount their respective journeys during Netflix’s hottest cooking show.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
PHOTOS NETFLIX KOREA

N
etflix Korea’s fiercest culinary showdown, very different turns. Chef Joseph, known for his use of
Culinary Class Wars, recently captivated Korean ingredients to make creative dishes from a non-
audiences with its mix of inventive and gruelling Korean perspective faced a tough battle in the second
challenges, topped with intense kitchen drama. The round, losing to a Black Spoon chef in a nail-biting
debut season saw 80 ‘Black Spoon’ chefs – up-and- cook-off. Meanwhile, Chef Jung made an impressive
coming chefs – go up against 20 ‘White Spoon’ chefs run, reaching the top eight with her approach to Chinese
– established, award-winning chefs – for a chance to cuisine and calm demeanour under pressure. In exclusive
win the title of champion. Among the contestants interviews, both chefs share about their experiences in
were Joseph Linderwood and Jung Ji Sun, two ‘White the competition, the lessons they learned, and what really
Spoon’ chefs whose journeys in the competition took went on behind the scenes.
• 21 •

F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S

Korean ingredients through Australian lens When the chef competed on Culinary Class Wars earlier this
Joseph Lidgerwood, an Australian-born year, he faced a challenge that pushed even his seasoned
chef with a deep appreciation for diverse skills: time. “At EVETT, we’re always developing recipes and
ingredients and cultures, has always testing them over time, but in the competition, you have
embraced a spirit of adventure in his to cook what you know and pull ideas together quickly,”
culinary career. From his early days working Joseph explains. Despite the pressure, he showcased Korean
at renowned fine-dining establishments ingredients in a way that stayed true to his philosophy of
like The French Laundry in Napa and The respecting cultural roots while embracing creativity.
Ledbury in London, to launching pop-up
restaurants in cities like New York, Hong He faced off “Cooking Maniac”, Chef Nam No Yoon in the
Kong, and Yangon, Joseph has continually White vs Black Spoon face-off in Episode Five, spotlighting
pushed the boundaries of his craft. the Conger Eel. While he ultimately lost the challenge, he
came up with the “삔집즴삄핅퍔” which roughly translates
Now based in Seoul, where he runs one- to “Light (taste) Conger Eel”, complete with sesame sauce,
Michelin-starred restaurant EVETT, Joseph’s perilla leaf oil, Korean wild black raspberries wine and apples.
approach to food has captivated the
international dining scene with his exclusive On his Instagram page, he reflected: “Honestly after this
use of Korean ingredients. Essentially, he show I was disappointed. I wanted to show my best and
serves creative dishes from a non-Korean I have a lot of opinions on how this show and how it was
perspective. EVETT was honoured with a run.” However, he also notes some positive takeaways and
Michelin star in the 2020 Guide a year after goals for the future. He had high praise for the chefs who
its opening, and has since retained this participated in this show. “All Black Spoon and White Spoon
accolade. Joseph was also winner of the 2021 chefs were excellent, and honestly have become great
MICHELIN Blancpain Young Chef Award. friends. Win, lose or draw, what I admire most is that Korea
is on the rise, and we are on the center stage. Let’s keep
pushing together to show how great this country is!”

For Joseph, the competition was not just a test of skill but
an opportunity for growth. “It’s good to push yourself out of
your comfort zone. Some of my peers passed on the project
due to the risks involved, but I found it rewarding. Sometimes
you win, and sometimes you learn,” he reflects. One of the
dishes that particularly caught his attention was a zero-waste
creation by his friend, Chef Kim Bong Su, which highlighted
the humble cabbage — a dish that Joseph still wishes he
could have tried.

His experience on the show reaffirmed the balance he strikes


between creativity and his restaurant’s identity. “We have an
identity at EVETT. We know what is and what isn’t an EVETT
dish. It’s taken time to develop, but this framework allows us
to experiment while staying true to our roots,” he says. The
experience didn’t drastically change Joseph’s approach to
cooking but reinforced his belief in the potential of elevating
Korean ingredients.

Ultimately, he believes that hard work, and a good framework


is what helps him to balance creativity with staying true to his
JOSEPH LINDERWOOD RUNS ONE
MICHELIN-STARRED EVETT (PHOTO: EVETT) food philosophy.
• 22 •

F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S

Queen of Dim Sum


A Chinese cuisine specialist and owner of
her own restaurant (Tian Mi Mi), Chef Ji Sun
participated in Culinary Class Wars with
a blend of curiosity and determination.
For her, the show wasn’t just a stage
to showcase culinary skills — it was an
opportunity for growth and reflection, a
rare chance to step outside the daily grind
of running a restaurant and immerse herself
in the boundless possibilities of cooking.

Ji Sun entered the competition not for fame


or the thrill of the challenge alone, but for
something deeper. She had always been
committed to her restaurant and creating
dishes that sell well to customers. Yet, there
were always the “what if”dishes — the
imaginative, unconventional creations that
couldn’t be served in her restaurant due to
practicality. Culinary Class Wars offered her
a platform to explore these concepts and
test her culinary creativity in ways she hadn’t
been able to before.

She shared, "The range of cooking is endlessly


wide, and I saw this competition as a chance
to dive deeper into it. This is why I decided
to join. There are dishes that can be sold and
others that exist only in my imagination, and I
wanted to explore both sides."

As a restaurant-owner, the idea of public


defeat carried a certain weight, but she
viewed it as part of the learning process.
"The idea of losing was scary," she admits.
"But I’m still learning. I wanted my staff
to see my strong will and enthusiasm, no
matter the outcome." Her mindset was
clear — if her team saw her tackle such a
challenge with strength and passion, they,
too, would feel inspired to persevere in
their own culinary journeys.

ONE OF THE SHOWS MOST NOTABLE MOMENTS INCLUDED CHEF JUNG’S


Among the many moments during the
INCREDIBLE DISPLAY OF BA SI, ALSO KNOWN AS CARAMEL CANDIED competition, one stood out for most
FLOSS, DURING HER ONE-ON-ONE FACE-OFF WITH A BLACK SPOON CHEF. viewers: the ba si (caramelised candied
• 23 •

F O O D / C U L I N A RY C L A S S WA R S

floss) that the chef made during her face-off with


“Goddess of Chinese Cuisine”, Chef Eun Young
Park. Ji Sun magically crafted the sugary floss to
top off her dish of dried radish leaves.

“It has to be ba si,” she exclaimed during our


interview, when we asked about a dish that
she made during the competition that she was
particularly proud of.

“Behind the glamour of Chinese cuisine, I


noticed the subtlety of the dish. It may seem
simple, but the focus and intensity behind it
were remarkable. As a Korean chef specialising
in Chinese cuisine, I wanted to showcase how I
could express this style.”

For Ji Sun, her work on this dish was more


than just a technical success — it was a
representation of her identity as a Korean chef
with a deep understanding of Chinese cuisine.
It was also a moment of personal reflection, as
the competition gave her a rare opportunity to
pause and look back on her culinary journey. CULINARY CLASS WARS’ TOP 8 CONTESTANTS

"This experience allowed me to reflect on my


life and realise how fiercely I’ve lived." Her approach to inventiveness reveals why she excels in
competitions like Culinary Class Wars. It’s not just about talent
Despite her individual accomplishments, Ji Sun or experience — it’s about discipline and the relentless pursuit
found the team challenge particularly challenging. of knowledge.
As the head of her own kitchen, collaborating with
other owner-chefs — each with their own vision As Ji Sun reflected on her time in Culinary Class Wars, she
and leadership style — proved more difficult than spoke of the broader impact the show has had on her and
anticipated. “If I had the chance to do it again, the restaurant industry. "The industry has been struggling,
I would want to perform better, and it remains but thanks to this competition, it seems to be reviving, and it
something I regret.” feels like everyone is smiling again," she shares. For her, the
show isn’t just about individual chefs — it’s about elevating the
The chef’s dedication to her craft extends entire culinary scene and showing the world the resilience and
beyond the competition and her restaurant. She creativity of chefs in Korea.
regularly travels abroad to study global culinary
trends, visiting local markets, grocery stores, "My style of Chinese cooking hasn’t changed, and it won’t. I’ll
and even dishware shops as part of her routine. continue breaking stereotypes and bringing out the dishes I
To her, creativity in the kitchen isn’t just about learned during my time studying in China," she emphasised.
the ability to innovate — it’s about continuous Through the competition, she also hopes to send a message to
learning. "Creativity is a result of effort. I aspiring chefs: “This is how I’ve persevered, and I hope you do
study, I eat, and I watch and observe. Trends too. Dreams are meant to be achieved. I’m also happy to see that
keep changing, and you can’t keep up without Culinary Class Wars has contributed to increasing recognition and
constant learning." development of the restaurant industry and chefs.”
IL RISTORANTE - LUCA FANTIN'S DEGUSTAZIONE MENU
IS MARKED BY CREATIVITY AND SEASONAL PRODUCE

The Pursuit of Excellence


The culinary team at Bvlgari Resort Bali ensures that guests’
dining experiences are nothing short of extraordinary.
BY EVE TEDJA, PHOTOS BVLGARI RESORT BALI & IRA RODRIGUES

I
l Ristorante – Luca Fantin is the impossibly chic their team are in charge of translating Fantin’s
black-and-white haute cuisine crown of Bvlgari flawless take on contemporary Italian cuisine.
Resort Bali. The sister restaurant of the Tokyo-
based eponymous restaurant just celebrated its 15th On the wall of the chef’s office, images of every
anniversary in September. dish from the previous seasons are displayed.
The ingredient-focused philosophy is visible
Led by Italian executive chef Luca Fantin, the Bali on every plate. “80% of our current menu uses
restaurant tells a compelling story of how the local produce. Every time we change the menu,
archipelago’s seasonal and local produce has the we push the bar higher than before through
progressive potential to share plates with winter countless trials until we end up with a well-
black truffle and wagyu beef. Head chef Alessandro articulated dish,”adds Mazzali who joined the
Mazzali, sous chef Jatu Rizki Putra Anurantha, and restaurant in 2022.
• 25 •

S PE C I A L F E AT U R E / BV LG A R I R E S O RT B A L I

THE 24-SEAT IL RISTORANTE - LUCA FANTIN IS OPEN ONLY FOR DINNER

He acknowledges the importance of teamwork


behind the laborious process for each of the
seven-course degustation menus they serve
every evening.

The level of precision that Fantin instills into his Bali-


based team continues to inspire Anurantha. “Luca’s
passion for his craft taught us to be accurate every
time we plate a dish. If there are supposed to be
five petals of an edible flower on an amuse bouche,
then it has to be tweezered that way every time,”
adds the sous chef.
EXECUTIVE CHEF LUCA FANTIN

The results can be seen by the guests who come to


savour the Singaraja coral trout with zucchini and
bottarga sauce; Javanese crayfish, white asparagus,
saffron sabayon; and housemade tagliatelle with
Kintamani vanilla butter and caviar.

Wild local snapper is served with winter black truffle


while organic Balinese pork is plated with refined
eggplant variations. The menu will transform based
on the seasons, what’s available, and the exploration
of the chefs. “As a chef, it is important to master
the ingredients first. Flavour comes later. Once you
master an ingredient, you can do anything you want
with it,” adds Luca, giving a solid reason why his
exceptional cuisine is worth a special journey.
HEAD CHEF ALESSANDRO MAZZALI
• 26 •

S PE C I A L F E AT U R E / BV LG A R I R E S O RT B A L I

Oceanfront lunch at Sangkar


Over at Sangkar, the all-day dining menu
speaks volumes about the expertise and
thoughtfulness of the resort’s F&B team.
Indonesian regional cuisines are spotlighted on
the menu, giving guests the chance to savour
authentic flavours from across the archipelago
during their stay. Powered by a troupe of local
chefs, there is no doubt that the dishes remain
faithful to their origins.

Some of the dishes that showcase the resort’s


artistry of flavours include Padangnese Beef
Rendang (braised, caramelised beef ribs served
with rice and spicy eggplant balado), Balinese
Bebek Goreng (crispy duck with vegetable urap
and sambal), and Udang Nyat-Nyat (Uluwatu’s
specialty of tiger prawn curry served with yellow
rice). The menu constantly evolves so frequent (LEFT) BARTENDER TOMMY PURNAMA PUTRA (RIGHT) A SERPENTI-INSPIRED
COCKTAIL AT THE BVLGARI BAR
guests can expect something different on their
next visit.

The Bvlgari Bar


Mixologists take centre stage at the resort’s open-
air bar where guests congregate daily before
sunset. Celebrating the art of the Italian way of
life, in-house guests are pampered with aperitivo
at the Bvlgari Bar. After all, life gets significantly
sweeter after sips of Aperol Spritz and stuzzichini
of olives, cheese, and prosciutto.

If guests wish to have a larger meal, they are


welcome to order the sumptuous Beluga Caviar
set that comes with all the trimmings (caper, egg,
shallot, sour cream, and blinis). Alternatively, they
can devour a generous Seafood Platter heaped
with Canadian lobster, salmon, mussels, clams,
oysters, king crab, caviar, prawns, and cuttlefish.

To go with these decadent sundown feasts,


chilled champagnes can be chosen from the cellar
recently recognised with an Award of Excellence
THE TERRACE OF SANGKAR IS THE MOST
POPULAR SPOT FOR A MEAL 2024 by the Wine Spectator. Otherwise, opt for
signature cocktails such as the refreshing gin-
based Bvlgari Cocktail or Serpenti Seduction with
its Belvedere, galangal, ginger flower, rosemary,
raspberry purée and fresh lime.
• 27 •

F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G

Gracing the table


These two women in the gourmet business are making quality
food the centrepiece of every occasion.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N

I
n Singapore’s bustling food landscape, two women are steadily and resolutely shaping the
way we entertain and dine at home. Wynona Leach, founder of Lush Platters, and Joey Quek,
the new owner behind Swiss Butchery, are transforming how Singaporeans think about food
presentation and quality. From Wynona’s visually striking grazing tables to Joey’s accessible yet
premium meats, both women are committed to offering exceptional experiences for those who
love to entertain at home.
• 30 •

F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G

FROM BEEF BRISKET TO WHOLE TURKEYS, THESE


PREMIUM OPTIONS AT SWISS BUTCHERY MAKE FOR A
FUSS-FREE CELEBRATION THIS HOLIDAY SEASON.

Quality is key these farms, we maintain control over the quality of our supply. Every
Both Wynona and Joey are deeply committed to product undergoes rigorous quality checks before it makes its way to
sourcing the best ingredients for their businesses. our shelves, ensuring our customers get only the best,” she explains.
At Lush Platters, Wynona selects artisanal
products from local and international producers, As Singapore’s food culture continues to evolve, Wynona and Joey
carefully curating items that add depth and have also adapted their businesses to meet changing consumer
variety to her platters. “I’m always on the lookout demands. Wynona has noticed a significant shift in how people
for unique products that complement each approach entertaining at home. People are more intentional now
other — whether it’s handmade crackers, pure about devising beautiful, memorable experiences for their guests.
honeycomb, or a great vegan dark chocolate,” “Singaporeans are now more invested in creating intimate, curated
she says. Each component of a Lush Platter is gatherings rather than large, impersonal events, and are looking
chosen not just for its taste but for the way it for ways to impress their guests while also making it easier on
contributes to the overall experience. Wynona’s themselves,” she says. Grazing tables have become a popular choice
emphasis on sourcing the freshest and most for intimate gatherings, and Wynona sees this trend continuing to
flavourful ingredients ensures that her platters grow as more people seek out alternative dining experiences that
consistently exceed customer expectations. focus on quality over quantity.

For Joey, who’s also a family office lawyer, Joey has also observed a similar shift towards quality over quantity,
the quality of Swiss Butchery’s meats is non- as well as ethical sourcing in the way Singaporeans approach home
negotiable. “We go through a meticulous cooking, especially as more people experiment with gourmet meals.
process of selecting each cut, and working “Singaporeans are now much more informed about the quality and
closely with farms that adhere to the highest origin of the meats they consume. They’re looking for transparency,
standards. By building strong relationships with value, and sustainability,” she notes.
• 31 •

F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G

Swiss Butchery has responded to this demand with


a customer-centric approach: every interaction is
designed to be educational and empowering — whether
it is through product recommendations, sourcing
transparency, or cooking tips — to ensure that customers
have access to everything they need to create impressive
dishes without the stress. She adds, “At our outlet in
Holland Village, we also provide a selection of cooked
meats that showcase the best of our products, allowing
customers to experience the quality firsthand before
making a purchase. This tasting experience helps build
trust and confidence in our offerings.”

Elevating festive entertaining


As the festive season approaches, both women
share their tips for those looking to elevate their
gatherings. Wynona suggests starting with a theme
or colour palette to tie everything together. “It’s
important to think about the overall look and feel
you want to create. Mixing textures and flavours is
key — sweet and savoury, soft and crunchy. Fresh
fruits like figs or red currants or herbs can add pops
TO ELEVATE YOUR FESTIVE GATHERING THIS YEAR, WYNONA
of colour and bring everything together beautifully,” SUGGESTS STARTING WITH A THEME OR COLOUR PALETTE TO TIE
she advises. EVERYTHING TOGETHER.

If you’re looking to create a platter that’s easy to


assemble, Wynona’s advice is to have a well-curated menu that includes turkey, ham, and other holiday classics, all
selection of cheeses, with a mix that includes presented with Lush Platters’ signature artistic flair. “Since we’ve
something creamy, something sharp, and a unique moved into a much larger kitchen, this year we’re launching our
option like blue cheese. “Complement this with festive offerings earlier. Customers will now be able to order the
charcuterie or plant-based bites, seasonal fruits, full Christmas menu from end of November and not just two days
roasted nuts, and a sweet treat like Christmas like we used to do. We will also be offering turkey and all the
chocolates or cookies. Incorporate a variety of trimmings! Our festive platters will be perfect for chic and festive
crackers and fresh herbs for garnish to enhance both gatherings,” she says.
flavour and presentation for a festive touch,” she adds.
Joey, too, is gearing up for the holidays with a curated selection
The holidays can be a stressful affair, so Joey of premium meats. “This year, Swiss Butchery is focusing on
encourages home cooks to not overcomplicate unique flavours like alcohol-infused products, maple, and truffle,
their holiday meals. “For festive meals, simplicity which will be featured across our sausages, hams, and roast
paired with quality is key. Choose a premium cut of chicken. Additionally, we’re introducing local-inspired flavours
meat and let it be the star of the table. You don’t to appeal to a broader palate. Our roast line-up includes new
need to overcomplicate with too many sides — products such as Crackling Roasted Porchetta and Truffle Roast
focus on bringing out the best in the meat through Chicken. We’re also bringing back a timeless favourite, the
thoughtful seasoning or a well-matched sauce. Roasted Beef Ribeye. Personally, this is my top choice — it’s the
Preparation is crucial — season or marinate your epitome of indulgence, perfect for making a statement at any
meat in advance to let the flavours develop fully. holiday gathering,” she shares.
The key is to let the quality of the meat speak for
itself, ensuring a memorable meal for your guests,” As they continue to expand and adapt their businesses to meet
she encourages. the evolving tastes of Singapore’s food lovers, Wynona and Joey
are not just providing food — they’re offering experiences that
Both Lush Platters and Swiss Butchery have exciting plans bring people together. Their stories remind us that even in a fast-
for the holidays. Wynona is expanding her offerings at paced world, the heart of every memorable occasion often starts
Lush Platters for the festive season, with a full Christmas with something as simple, yet as special, as the food we share.
• 28 •

F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G

Joey’s story with Swiss Butchery, on the other hand, centres on bringing
premium meats and gourmet products to Singaporeans. Swiss Butchery has
been a beloved institution in Singapore since 1994, offering high quality,
specialty meats from around the world, alongside gourmet sausages,
marinades, and deli products. Joey’s mission when she took over her
family’s business was to uphold Swiss Butchery’s reputation as the go-to
destination for meat lovers in Singapore while also making premium cuts
and gourmet products accessible to a broader audience. Her dedication to
quality and education ensures that Swiss Butchery remains a favourite for
anyone looking to elevate their home-cooked meals.

No easy feat
Every business comes with its own set of difficulties, and both women
have encountered their share of challenges along the way. Wynona
started Lush Platters from her home, handling everything on her own in
the early days. “I was doing everything — creating the platters, building
WYNONA LEACH, LUSH PLATTERS the website, responding to customer inquiries. I remember nights
where I would stay up until 3am trying to finish everything on time,” she
Passion behind the plate says. Juggling the demands of a growing business, especially with limited
Wynona’s entrepreneurial journey started resources, tested her resilience. Today, Lush Platters has grown into a sought-
early, and her passion for food and design after brand known for its unique approach to grazing, with a loyal customer
have always been intertwined. Lush Platters, base that ranges from corporate clients to private party hosts.
founded in 2017, specialises in creating
luxurious, beautifully arranged grazing tables
JOEY QUEK, SWISS BUTCHERY
and platters that are perfect for celebrations,
parties, or corporate events. “I’ve always had
an entrepreneurial spirit,” she recalls, explaining
how her career trajectory — from handmade
children’s fashion label in Australia to a dessert
table and online party goods business in
Singapore — has always involved a personal
touch and attention to detail. The concept of
Lush Platters came to her when she noticed
that cheeseboards were popular in Australia
and Europe but not in Singapore, and so
she took it as an opportunity to introduce
something unique here.

LUSH PLATTERS
• 29 •

F O O D / H O M E E N T E RTA I N I N G

Joey’s experience with Swiss Butchery was food on a platter. “It’s about creating a memorable experience, where the
similar, especially when it came to sourcing food becomes a centrepiece of their gathering,” Wynona explains. “I want
quality products while keeping prices affordable. our customers to feel a sense of delight and excitement when they see one
“It was critical to establish trust with suppliers of our platters or spreads.” She pays meticulous attention to the balance
and ensure consistency in the quality of what we of colours, textures, and flavours, ensuring that every platter is not only
offered,” she shares. But through persistence delicious but also a feast for the eyes. “The visual appeal draws people in,
and a clear vision, both women overcame these but the taste keeps them coming back,” she remarks.
early obstacles and built brands that reflect their
passion and commitment to quality. Meanwhile, Joey’s approach with Swiss Butchery focuses on elevating
everyday dining through high quality ingredients. Whether it’s a family
One thing that keeps them going? The barbecue or a festive dinner, Swiss Butchery offers a variety of meats
unwavering dedication to creating unique food that are selected with care, from grass-fed beef to free-range poultry.
experiences for their customers. “We want people to feel like they can create restaurant-quality meals at
home without feeling intimidated by the process,” she says.
Lush Platters’ grazing tables have become Swiss Butchery also provides a wide range of ready-to-cook products,
synonymous with visually stunning and tastefully such as marinated meats and house-made sausages, that make meal
curated food displays that feature a vibrant preparation easy yet impressive. Joey’s commitment to educating
selection of artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, fresh customers — by simplifying and demystifying the process of selection
fruits, vegetables, and an assortment of dips and and preparation — ensures that both novice and experienced home
crackers, many of which are made in-house. For cooks can feel confident and inspired to create and enjoy gourmet
her, however, it’s about more than just putting meals at home.

LUSH PLATTERS’ BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED SETTING LADEN WITH CHEESE PLATTERS, COLD CUTS, AND OTHER FRESH INGREDIENTS.
• 32 •

FOOD / CHRISTMAS MEMORIES

Four European chefs who now call Singapore home share their
Christmas food memories and traditions from their childhood.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N

This year, top chefs based in Singapore are revisiting their European Christmas memories
and family traditions, reinventing dishes that honour those timeless flavours. Whether it’s
a twist on cotechino for good luck or a nod to a seafood feast from home, these festive
specialties add something deeply personal to their menus. This season, embark on a
journey through dishes that define their childhood memories.
• 33 •

FOOD / CHRISTMAS MEMORIES

During Christmas, my family loves... 5 January dinner or the turrones


the canellonis that my mom prepares (nougat) that are consumed throughout
and also the Macarrones de Cardenal the Christmas season.
that my grandma makes. The canellonis
is a typical dish in Barcelona made I would like to pass on...
by filling rectangular sheets of pasta the importance of reunion to my
with meat – traditionally leftovers from children. I want them to know the
the Christmas roast – rolling them up, importance of spending time together
covering them with béchamel sauce and with their family, friends and loved ones.
gratinating them with cheese. While To have a hearty meal together around
my grandma makes the Macarrones de the dining table, whether it is at home
Cardenal with macaroni pasta, secreto or in a restaurant. We really should
iberico sofrito and a cheese sauce. Both be doing these get-togethers more
dishes are represented at Carlitos. throughout the year, but the festive
season gives us the perfect “excuse” to
Christmas essentials include... make time for our loved ones.
a roast for Christmas lunch that’s made
with either chicken or suckling pig. With This year, I will introduce my son to the
whatever is left over, we prepare canelons Caga Tió, a Catalan Christmas tradition.
for the following day of Sant Esteve (26 We are supposed to “feed” food scraps
December). During Christmas dinner, to a wooden log with a drawn-on, big
Carlos Montobbio, we always have Escudella i Carn d’Olla smiley face, and it wears a jaunty red hat
Chef Owner of Esquina (a traditional soup made with meat and for days. On Christmas night, presents
vegetables). There are also plenty of will appear under the log – legend says
and CARLITOS desserts, like the chocolate log cake for he “poops” it – when you “hit” him
Christmas, the Tortell de Reis, otherwise with a stick and sing a song. I know, us
known as the Kings’ cake, served on Catalans have some weird traditions.
When I was a child...
we’d have a couple of weeks of holidays
from school during Christmas. During that
time, we’d always have family coming over
for meals at home. We have a big family, CARLOS’ NEW RESTAURANT CARLITOS, ESSENTIALLY MEANS “LITTLE CARLOS” IN SPANISH
WHICH WAS ALSO WHAT HIS FAMILY AFFECTIONATELY CALLED HIM WHEN HE WAS YOUNGER.
so it was common to cook for 20 to 25
family members. I have fond memories
helping my mom out in the kitchen to cook
for everyone since a very young age. It will
just be the two of us in the kitchen, and I
enjoyed cooking together with her. It was
our way of spending time together, and it
remains a precious childhood memory.

I also recall loving Iberico ham so much


that I asked for a Iberico ham leg (and
some video game that I don’t remember
now) from Santa for several years. I would
look forward to going home daily, as I
would carve it myself after coming back
from school, and share with whoever was
home at that time. I remember being
bummed out when we finished it – it only
lasted a couple of months, but it was real
fun while it lasted!
• 34 •

FOOD / CHRISTMAS MEMORIES

Chef Kirk Westaway,


Executive Chef JAAN by Kirk Westaway
My New Year’s Resolution...
and The Albion by Kirk Westaway
In 2025, I will be busy with the first year of
operations at Carlitos. We have put in a lot
of work to launch it, and I can’t wait to have
guests over!

I always think that my restaurant is a table with


three legs – my guests, team and shareholders.
If one leg fails, the table will collapse. Hence,
every decision I make is based on keeping the
guests, team and shareholders happy to ensure
a sustainable restaurant for the long term.

My favourite Christmas memory is...


a very traditional English Christmas lunch. It was always simple but
filled with joy. As the cook of the house, my mother would be in the
kitchen, preparing our meal. The kids would be helping out, sitting
around peeling the Brussels sprouts. Mum would have a glass of sherry
as she worked, and it was such a nice family moment. I always loved the
Christmas crackers at the dining table and afterwards we would watch
a Christmas movie together. It was a warm, friendly, and happy family
environment — exactly what Christmas should be.

Our Christmas meal always includes a wide variety of vegetables from


little organic farms, as my mum has always been really into organic
produce and great ingredients. It’s an approach that inspires me in the
kitchen today. Christmas was always a warm, jolly, and happy time.
While we usually had a traditional Christmas dinner, with half the family
being vegetarians, there was also a homemade nut roast, packed with
interesting nuts and served with a freshly made cranberry sauce. It was
always so impressive and absolutely delicious. I have such fond memories
of those meals. My mum is an amazing cook, and everything she makes
creates a warm, loving family atmosphere.

The dish I would recreate from my childhood is....


a Christmas or Sunday roast. For me, it’s one of the greatest meals
in the world, and definitely my favourite. It features a huge selection
THE MACARRONES DE CARDENAL THAT CHEF CARLOS’
GRANDMOTHER MAKES AT HOME IS REIMAGINED AS
of vegetables, with some roasted, some butter-blanched, and
“CANELONES DE ABUELA” AT CARLITOS. others braised, alongside crispy Yorkshire puddings and perfectly
• 35 •

FOOD / CHRISTMAS MEMORIES

THE NEWLY OPENED


ALBION BY KIRK
WESTAWAY CHAMPIONS
MODERN BRITISH CUISINE.
AT CHEF KIRK’S OUTPOST
IN VIETNAM, GUESTS
CAN EXPECT CASUALLY
ELEGANT DISHES PERFECT
FOR SHARING, COMPLETE
WITH PANORAMIC VIEWS
OF HO CHI MINH CITY.
DISHES OFFERED INCLUDE
WHOLE ROAST CHICKEN
AND KIRK’S KRISTAL
CAVIAR SANDWICH
FINISHED WITH FRESH
CHIVES AND GOLD LEAF.

turnips, crosnes,
celeriac, and
potatoes. We want
broken roast potatoes. We always have to create a dish that’s
incredible gravies, a big spoonful of creamed truly special, warm,
horseradish and mustard, and maybe a slice and comforting.
of beef or turkey if needed. But for me, the
highlight is always the vegetables. They My New Year’s
are the true stars of the dish, with the meat resolution is...
playing a secondary role. The charred, crispy to focus on staying
onions, roasted carrots with a touch of honey active with more
— amazing. That’s what excites me about running and exercise,
this meal, the special childhood memories of while also making
those Christmas holidays and Sundays, where sure to spend more
the vegetables took centre stage. quality time with
of bundling up in scarves, we’re usually in shorts my family. For the
Even though I live in Asia now... and t-shirts, enjoying the warmth of Singapore. restaurants, we have
I still try to recreate the traditional English some very exciting
Christmas here. I usually invite a group of This festive season... plans in the pipeline.
friends over, and luckily for me, many of them at JAAN, we’re aiming to elevate the traditional I’m a strong believer
are in F&B or are sommeliers, so they bring Christmas experience. We’ll be serving a beautiful in ‘don’t tell people
along some incredible bottles they’ve been saddle of venison, paired with clean, bright and your plans, but show
saving for years. It’s always a fun moment, fresh vegetables with rich sauces made from all them your results’.
sharing amazing food and wine together on the trimmings. The focus will be on winter and root Watch this space for
Christmas Day. The only difference is, instead vegetables such as Jerusalem artichokes, roasted the new year.
• 36 •

FOOD / CHRISTMAS MEMORIES

Mirko Febbrile, At midnight, the table is cleared to


make space for a dish that is meant to
Chef-Partner, bring prosperity, success and wealth
Somma AND Fico into the future of the starting year:
an Italian pig terrine made with the
poorest part of the pig, stuffed like a
To me, Christmas is... salami and cooked in boiling water for
always extra special, and it’s usually
many hours and known by the name
the largest gathering of the year. Back
of cotechino. It’s always served with a
home, we’d sometimes even bring our
generous portion of lentils.
own dining tables over to the host’s
home so that we can all eat together.
We pay tribute to this memory and
My favourite memory is seeing my
celebratory dish through one of our
family cook in the kitchen, while the rest
signatures at Somma: Pig Snout -
of us gathered around the fireplace.
Onions - Black Bread - Parmigiano
It sounds picture-perfect and in many
Vacche Rosse. In reference to my years
ways, it was — there’s nothing else
in Asia, we slow-cook the pig snout in
quite like it.
Chinese rice wine, bay leaves, dried
dates, juniper berries, and soy sauce.
Christmas meals are... We then brush it with a barbecue sauce
quite traditional for us, and the celebrate both the past and the new we make with roasted tomatoes, and
festivities stretch all the way into the beginnings, toasting for a hopeful year grill over charcoal. We pair this with
new year. On the last day of the year, ahead. The meals would start early in a Parmesan fondue, slow-cooked,
families and friends come together to the evening and last well into the night. charcoal-grilled Borretana onions, lentil

ONE OF THE SIGNATURES AT SOMMA INCLUDES A


DISH FEATURING AN ENTIRE SLOW-COOKED PIG
SNOUT COMPLETE WITH PARMESAN FONDUE, SLOW-
COOKED, CHARCOAL-GRILLED BORRETANA ONIONS,
LENTIL CRACKER AND GRATED PARMESAN.
• 37 •

FOOD / CHRISTMAS MEMORIES

cracker and grated parmesan for added richness. Olivieri 1882, an award-winning, family-run PANETTONE ENCAPSULATES
The bread sauce, made from leftover bread, bakery from Arzignano, Italy. I met the fifth- THE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS
FOR CHEF MIRKO, WHO
miso water, and vegetable stock, is emulsified generation owner, Nicola, a few years ago, and
IS BRINGING A SLICE OF
with olive oil to create a smooth, savoury we immediately connected. He has a brilliant HOME TO SINGAPORE WITH
accompaniment. A topping of toasted bread mind, and I truly respect the thought and THE PANETTONE FESTIVO
crumble and crispy fried onions adds texture technique that they put into every product. AT FICO.
and sweetness, completing the dish. Finally, the We collaborated on a delicious recipe for the
dish is finished with a drizzle of rich pork jus at Fico x Olivieri 1882 Panettone Festivo that
the table. combines the nostalgia of roasted chestnuts
with a hint of bergamot and the indulgence
Every Christmas... of gianduja. I’m glad we have the opportunity
we will receive dozens of panettone. These will to showcase their 140-year heritage with our
sit under the tree until Christmas day. We end up friends here.
with so many that this becomes a breakfast staple
right through February! My dad, in particular, Christmas in Singapore feels...
absolutely adores panettone. He dips it with a different. I come from a small town in Puglia,
little bit of milk in the mornings. so Christmas has always been family-oriented
and cosy. Singapore is super fast-paced! I try
So, to me, the panettone really encapsulates to replicate this as best as I can, for example,
the spirit of Christmas, and I wanted to I invite my mum to Singapore every year
bring a true slice of home to our community for Christmas, and I’ll throw a party with my
in Singapore. This year we are introducing friends and cook at home, just like how we
Panettone Festivo at Fico, in collaboration with used to at my grandparents’ home.
• 38 •

FOOD / CHRISTMAS MEMORIES

Louis Pacquelin, chef-partner


of Les Ducs and Madame Claude CHEF LOUIS PACQUELIN, REIMAGINES FRENCH BRASSERIE FAVOURITES WITH ASIAN TOUCHES AT LES DUCS.

When I was young... French braised dish made with small lobster thermidor, and more. Our social
I lived in Sardinia, Italy, where Christmas and bundles of sheep tripe, usually stuffed club, Madame Claude, will also offer
New Year’s Eve are taken very seriously. They with sheep’s feet, sweetbreads and amazing champagnes at special prices
host big parties (even with fireworks) that last for various herbs and garden vegetables from to complement our caviar bites, which
days. You really don’t stop eating for almost 15 Aveyron. Like I mentioned earlier, I indulge are seasonal snacks that will change
days straight. I also have fond memories from in boudin noir from the Basque country; based on the market.
La Rochelle, France, where dinners with friends andouillette from Troyes; and saucisse
often ended in the morning. Before heading to de diots (sausages of fatty ground pork We will have special dishes throughout
bed, we would indulge in oysters to combat the seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg) the festive season. I’ve decided to
hangover that would come the next day. from Haute-Savoie. I love the powerful introduce special items like oysters,
flavours of these meaty dishes. grilled blue lobster with caviar and
A typical Christmas meal back home featured passion fruit beurre blanc, beef tartare
plenty of seafood — lobsters, scallops, This Christmas at Les Ducs... with seaweed vinaigrette, and more.
langoustines — and a bit of foie gras. But the I have developed a partnership with Sturia
oysters were a must-have every Christmas. Caviar, a French caviar farm located just Next year I would love to...
50 km from my hometown. We’re offering spend more time with my one-year-
Holiday essential dishes include... weekly specials at Les Ducs that will pair old twins, and my wife. As for Les
offal, boudin noir (a tasty combination of fresh perfectly with this caviar. From 1 to 31 Dus, 2025 will be filled with surprises,
pork blood, pork and caramelised onions), December, we’ll offer our “Caviar By The including collaborations that will be
andouillette (a French coarse-grained sausage Gram” special, allowing guests to enjoy announced early next year. Madame
made from the intestine of pork, pepper, from 1g to 500g of this exquisite French Claude will also be hosting wine
wine, onions, and seasonings) and other caviar at a special price. We’ll also have events as part of our “Meet the
delicacies. Unfortunately, it’s quite difficult, if a takeaway menu available from 15 to 31 Winemaker” programme, as well
not impossible, to import these to Singapore. December. It will feature foie gras, volailles as some quarterly party brunch and
So when I go home, I must have tripoux — a aux truffes (roast chicken with truffles), special themed nights.
• 40 •

F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E

TROPEA ONION, CUTTLEFISH GARUM,


ALLIUM OIL (PHOTO: SILO)

Waste Not, Want Not


These zero-waste pioneers are reshaping modern dining with
creative solutions to sustainability’s toughest challenges.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
• 41 •

F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E

Z
ero-waste. Sustainability. Farm-to-table. Nose-to-tail.
These are just some of the buzzwords that have been
synonymous with modern dining trends. While the
shift towards more sustainable practices is celebrated as a
whole amongst consumers and those in the industry alike,
few truly understand the immense challenges that come with
running a waste-free establishment.

But what does it take to turn this vision into reality?

For pioneers like SEM in Portugal, Silo in London and


Nolla in Helsinki, committing to zero-waste isn’t just a
philosophy — it’s an ongoing battle against the limitations
of the current food system, unpredictable supply chains,
and the constant pressure to innovate. Every decision,
from ingredient sourcing to kitchen waste management,
requires careful planning and creativity to stay true to the SILO CULTIVATES
zero-waste mission, all whilst serving up delicious fare. For ITS OWN IN-HOUSE
KOJI, MADE
these restaurants, there’s more beyond the glossy allure of
WITH SURPLUS
eco-friendly initiatives. INGREDIENTS LIKE
PARMESAN RINDS,
Reality bites BEETROOT SKINS,
Barcelona-born Albert Franch Sunyer of Michelin Bib WASTED EGG
WHITES, TRIMMINGS
Gourmand restaurant Nolla, recalls his realisation that the
AND SO ON.
traditional restaurant model was, in his words, “crooked
and a little bit rotten.” Years of working in kitchens left
him disillusioned by the sheer amount of waste generated
nightly. “You’d have 40 guests, but the amount of garbage
he wanted to take responsibility for everything they produce,
produced could fill a room,” Albert shares. The turning point
reflecting on how the waste problem begins long before
for him came when he recognised the urgent need to take
ingredients even enter the kitchen.
responsibility and change the industry’s damaging practices.

All three establishments are part of a growing number of


Similarly, Doug McMaster, founder of Silo, felt a growing
restaurants that are committed to preventing waste rather than just
frustration with the restaurant industry’s inefficiencies. When
managing it. As Lara emphasises, “The goal isn’t to find ways to
he opened Silo in 2014, it was the first zero-waste restaurant
deal with expired food — it’s to never let that food expire in the
in the world. His motivation stemmed from a desire to
first place.” Similarly, Albert adds that preventing waste is about
challenge the wasteful status quo. According to Doug,
thoughtful sourcing, minimal packaging, and drastically reducing
energy and water consumption.
DOUGLAS MCMASTER, FOUNDER OF SIL
However, implementing such ambitious goals was met with
scepticism. Albert reflects on how, when Nolla first launched,
they were dismissed as the “guys who picked expired food from
supermarket containers.” At the time, the zero-waste movement
wasn’t widely understood, and many associated it solely with food
waste rather than a holistic approach to resource management. SEM
faced similar scepticism. “There’s always scepticism when someone
comes up with a “concept” restaurant. Is it all about the concept
and not the food? Or is it all greenwashing? But for us being zero-
waste is not a concept, it’s an operating model. The concept is
the creative cooking that arises from that operating model. We
addressed the scepticism by focusing on doing our job and doing
it well: delicious food, great wine and no compromises.”
• 42 •

F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E

(FROM LEFT) Doug’s Silo famously operates without a garbage bin, illustrating Albert and his team made a firm decision to cut
“STOUT”; how deeply the zero-waste ethos is embedded into every layer out single-use plastics altogether, but that came
ALBERT FRANCH
of the business. The restaurant uses its own compost machine to with its own set of challenges. “When we started,
SUNYER OF some suppliers just refused to work with us,” he
NOLLA
turn food scraps into nutrient-rich soil, which is then returned to
the farms that supply Silo’s produce — a powerful example of a says. “They couldn’t wrap their heads around
(PHOTOS: SOFIA
KORKALA) closed-loop system. Nolla also operates with a compost machine, delivering products without plastic.”
complete with a software that records everything that ends up
inside the composter to create data so that they can locate Both restaurants also had to educate suppliers.
hotspots on where we fail the most, tackle these failures, and try to Lara mentions having to convince local farmers
make them try to become better. and vendors to cut down on single-use
packaging, while Albert recounts the challenges
“Technically, our composter produces a pre-compost that goes of sourcing ingredients from within a strict 250 km
back to one of our farms — usually a biodynamic farm. They use radius around the Nolla.
this soil-like material as bedding for their animals. Once it absorbs
urine and waste, it is added to the compost pile to mature into
fertiliser for the next season. This way, we ensure that the material
has at least a couple of lives,” Albert explains.

Beyond just food waste


However, zero waste isn’t just about reducing food waste — it’s about
addressing all forms of waste generated by the restaurant, including
the often-overlooked problem of single-use packaging.

“Packaging is one of the hardest things to deal with,” Albert


explains. “It’s not just about the food we serve; it’s about how that
food arrives at our kitchen.” In traditional restaurant supply chains, THE COMPOST IN THE NOLLA IS PLACED IN THE DINING
nearly every ingredient comes wrapped in plastic — whether it’s AREA TO SPARK CONVERSATION AND NORMALISE THE
produce from the farm, imported spices, or fresh seafood. At Nolla, CONCEPT OF ZERO WASTE. (CREDITS: RIIKKA KATINKOSKI)
• 43 •

F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E

Finding suppliers who are willing to comply with true cost of farming. We also have high staff costs as we pay our staff
zero-waste standards requires careful vetting and, above average and offer them a holistic benefits package. These are
at times, convincing. Albert shares how they had not associated with running a zero-waste operation but with decisions
to create partnerships with local producers and made in line with our values.”
businesses that were open to using reusable or
biodegradable containers. “It’s not always easy. Similarly, Albert explains that running a zero-waste restaurant doesn’t
Some suppliers agreed to deliver in large crates necessarily mean higher raw material costs. “What drives up costs is
that we returned, while others opted for glass jars labour. “It’s more labour-intensive because everything requires more
or cloth bags,” he says. thought — how do we solve issues that have never been solved
before?” he adds.
Lara also points out how much of their waste-
free packaging effort is about communication But Albert believes the increased costs are justified. “If sustainability
with suppliers and producers. “Our suppliers means something, it’s also about social sustainability. If your staff are
share the same values and philosophy as us. All overworked and underpaid, that’s not sustainable.” Both restaurants
our suppliers go through a process of evaluation also go above and beyond to ensure that they don’t just cut costs by
to understand their processes, measures and sacrificing quality. “I can’t compete with an onion that costs 50 cents
techniques. Farmers and fishermen follow agro- and comes from who knows where. But I know where every ingredient I
ecological practices and have environmental use is from, and that transparency matters.”
impact in mind at every step of their operation
and we learn a lot from them every time we go for FOR SEM, BEING ZERO-WASTE IS NOT A CONCEPT, IT’S AN OPERATING MODEL. THE
a site visit. Whenever there are hurdles, they are CONCEPT IS THE CREATIVE COOKING THAT ARISES FROM THAT OPERATING MODEL.
usually overcome through conversation.

Tackling packaging waste doesn’t just improve


their environmental footprint, but also forces
restaurants to be more thoughtful and
innovative in their overall operations. It’s about
rethinking the entire lifecycle of a product —
from how it’s grown and packaged, to how it’s
delivered and eventually consumed. “It’s not
just about what’s on the plate,” says Albert. “It’s
about everything that happens before the food
even reaches the kitchen.”

The real costs of zero waste


Lara shares that SEM is transparent and open
about their costs. “We pay a higher price for our
produce because it is sourced from regenerative
and organic farms exclusively. Unfortunately,
the cost of responsible farming practices is
distorted because the hidden costs are actually in
subsidised, chemical heavy, industrial food. These
costs are offloaded onto us in the forms of taxes,
while responsible farming actually represents the
• 44 •

F O O D / Z E RO - WA S T E

A sustainable future?
Despite these challenges, SEM, Silo and Nolla are
constantly finding new ways to innovate. These
innovations, however, require significant time,
effort and a willingness to take risks. And these
restaurants have proven that, with perseverance,
zero-waste is not only achievable but can be
creatively liberating.

As zero-waste dining continues to gain traction,


(ABOVE) HAVING A
TASTING MENU MODEL
a major question remains: is this model scalable?
IS CRUCIAL FOR THE For restaurants like SEM, Silo and Nolla, the
OPERATION AT SEM AS answer is complex. Albert believes that change
THE MENU ADAPTS TO is possible on a larger scale if the food system
WHATEVER INGREDIENTS
evolves. “Zero-waste is the future of dining.
THEY CAN GET FROM
THEIR SUPPLIERS;
But for that to happen, governments, suppliers,
(RIGHT) SEM’S CHEFS restaurants and consumers all need to work
together to make it viable,” he shares.

For them, the road to a zero-waste future for


the rest of the industry may seem long and
challenging, but their commitment to the cause
A constant need for creativity is unwavering. Their journey serves as a reminder
Running a zero-waste kitchen demands a constant that while the concept of zero-waste may seem
rethinking of conventional practices. “We all had to idealistic, it is rooted in a very real and practical
relearn how to cook when we opened Nolla,” Albert desire to make the world a better place: one meal
admits. Techniques they had relied on in fine dining at a time. Ultimately, zero-waste dining is more
— like sous-vide cooking and syphons — became than just eliminating plastic and decreasing food
obsolete in a zero-waste environment. This forced waste. It’s about rethinking how we interact with
creativity has been both the biggest challenge and food, with each other, and with the planet. And
the most rewarding aspect of their work. for these chefs and owners, it’s a challenge worth
For SEM, the challenge wasn’t just in re-learning fighting for.
cooking techniques but also in making the most
out of locally available ingredients. “By sourcing
directly from farmers rather than corporate
distributors, we are limited to less availability of
deliveries for example, and we have structured
our model to accommodate these hurdles,”
Santo explains. We source our river fish directly
from the fisherman, which means if he has an
unexpected situation and cannot deliver the
produce, we don’t have alternatives to turn to.
The menu adapts. This decision is also aligned
with our values — if we are to be working with
nature, rather than against it, we need to be able SEM’S CO-FOUNDERS GEORGE MCLEOD AND
LARA ESPÍRITO SANTO
to adapt to what nature can provide.”
is a world of
gastronomic delight
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• 46 •

FOOD / LUXURY DINING SERIES

(FROM LEFT) CHEFS TAKUJI NAKANO, YOSUKE ASANO FROM


VLADMIR VEIGA AND SANDRO GAMBA THE RITZ-CARLTON, KYOTO

TEA MASTER HEAD BARTENDER


NORIYASU UESHIMA KENTARO WADA

(FROM LEFT) EXECUTIVE CHEF SANDRO GAMBA, PRESIDENT


TAKUJI NAKANO, OF SUGI BEE GARDEN KOICHI YONEDA, EXECUTIVE PASTRY
HEAD CHEF OF TOWERS CHEF JONG TZE KHANG AND SOUS CHEF YASUSHI WATANABE
• 47 •

FOOD / LUXURY DINING SERIES

CHEF HISAO ISHIDA


OF HINOKIZAKA

Celebration
of culinary
craftsmanship
Culinary talents from The Ritz Carlton, Tokyo
craft exquisite dishes and drinks using ingredients
sourced from Japan’s finest producers, with the aim
of preserving cultural heritage through food.
B Y A M Y VA N
P H O T O S : T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N , T O K Y O

BONSAI MASTER
he Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo kicked off the Marriott International

T
KANTA HIROTA
Luxury Group Dining Series in September this year,
drawing gourmands to experience outstanding gastronomy
woven with the best ingredients sourced from Japan. The two-month,
multi-city event spanning locations from Bali to Bangkok, will culminate
at JW Marriott Hotel Singapore from 29 November to 1 December.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N
The sold-out sessions at the upscale hotel in Roppongi were made possible
by the brigade of passionate chefs and bartenders who worked tirelessly to
impress everyone with their creations.

“Working on the Luxury Group Dining Series event gave us the


opportunity to showcase the talents of our incredible chef team and
introduce the amazing products from Japan that we make the effort every
day to discover and bring back to our kitchens,” says The Ritz-Carlton,
Tokyo's Executive Chef Sandro Gamba.

During the three-day (read: non-stop) feasting, guests also learned


>LœÕÌÌ iÛ>ÀˆœÕÃ>«>˜iÃiÌÀ>`ˆÌˆœ˜ÃÃÕV >ÃޜÌ>ŽÕwà «Àˆ˜Ìˆ˜}]
Japanese tea ceremony and the art of bonsai by the family-run Omiya
Bonsai. They also sampled premium green tea from Wazuka, Kyoto and
honey from Kumamoto.
• 48 •

FOOD / LUXURY DINING SERIES

FINE DINING FEAST AT


HÉRITAGE BY KEI KOBAYASHI
Following the successful event, the hotel's fine
dining restaurant Héritage by Kei Kobayashi was
awarded one star by the Michelin Guide Tokyo
2025 in October.

Héritage by Kei Kobayashi offers a unique


‘gastronomie française’ that blends French
culinary techniques with Japanese ingredients
and sensibilities. The dishes are marked by
the natural flavours of high quality ingredients
rather than being masked by rich, creamy sauces.
Chef Kei Kobayashi, renowned as the first Asian
chef to receive three Michelin stars in France
for his acclaimed Restaurant KEI in Paris, has
maintained his restaurant’s three-star status for five (FROM LEFT) EXECUTIVE CHEF TERUKI MURASHIMA OF HÉRITAGE BY
consecutive years since 2020. KEI KOBAYASHI WITH THE RENOWNED CHEF KEI KOBAYASHI

Chef Sandro says, “The relationship with Chef


Kei Kobayashi began to take shape in August Osaka-born Teruki trained under Chef Kei in France prior to this.
2022 during our ‘Special Dinner Event by Chef "During my time at Restaurant KEI, I had the opportunity not only
Kei Kobayashi,’ a gala dinner at The Ritz-Carlton, to refine my culinary skills but also to learn about Chef Kobayashi's
Tokyo. The former Azure 45 underwent a concept philosophy, vision, and approach to restaurant management, as
transformation with Chef Kei as the supervising well as his unique world view,” shares Teruki. To source the best
chef and Chef Teruki Murashima as the chef de seafood, he regularly visits his culinary playground – Toyosu Fish
cuisine in August 2023. We then unveiled Héritage Market – where he has strong relationships with the purveyors to
by Kei Kobayashi on 29 January 2024, with ensure top quality ingredients.
the aim of passing down French cuisine to the
next generation." Sandro adds, “We share the Sandro shares, “For locally sourced ingredients, we procure fish,
same vision, passion, and dedication for French vegetables, and fruits that are in season. The restaurant also
gastronomy so working together was a very easy features French ingredients, particularly meats such as pigeon,
decision for all of us.” lamb, and veal, as well as lobster, black truffles and vegetables like
artichokes [luxed up with French caviar].”
Sandro continues, “I have been collaborating
with Chef Kei for the last 30 months on Héritage's The menu is not superfluous yet exquisite in flavour and texture.
concept. It is not easy to earn a Michelin star with a For the Homard Bleu creation, the chefs expertly coaxed out the
great master chef like Kei especially since he lives naturally sweet flavour of the blue lobster by smoking it. And instead
over 10,000km away. I needed to ensure we had of overwhelming it with sauces, they lightly perfumed the crustacean
the perfect team to understand Chef Kei's vision with vanilla and coconut milk.
and execute all the small details that distinguish us
in Tokyo's fine dining restaurant scene." The richly flavoured risotto is perfectly executed and finished
with truffles from Alba in Italy. And the main course of Landes
He praises Chef Teruki’s understanding of the pigeon is succulent with depth of flavour. Dessert comes in the
restaurant’s concept: "He is passionate about form of a delicate chocolate tart — matched with a glass of Louis
French gastronomy and admires Chef Kei greatly. XIII cognac (if you must). To pair with your meal, the restaurant
We have the perfect team to achieve Héritage's offers the finest French wines from esteemed wineries such as
gastronomic dreams.” Chateau Haut-Brion.
• 50 •

FOOD / LUXURY DINING SERIES

(CLOCKWISE) HINOKIZAKA WAS ADORNED WITH BEAUTIFUL


BONSAI PLANTS COURTESY OF OMIYA BONSAI; EXQUISITE
KAISEKI CUISINE IS SERVED AT HINOKIZAKA; THE CHEFS
REGULARLY PROCURE TUNA FROM TOYOSU MARKET.

KAISEKI DINNER AT HINOKIZAKA


Hinokizaka, one of the best places to take in Tokyo's dazzling
skyline, boasts four dedicated dining areas, each specialising in
kaiseki, sushi, tempura and teppanyaki.

Here, Chef de Cuisine Hisao Ishida leads the team of highly


skilled Japanese chefs. The restaurant sources much of its
seafood including large slabs of premium ruby-red tuna and an
array of fresh fish from Toyosu fish market.

At the elegant tatami dining room, the chefs ensure that the
intricate art of kaiseki is underscored by the best seasonal
ingredients, meticulously prepared and elegantly plated.
For instance, guests can savour ingredients such as chestnut,
persimmon, and muscat dressed with tofu; alongside gingko
nut, mukago yam dumpling, peanuts and sweet potato – as
showcased in the current autumn-inspired hassun platter.

For the sake pairing dinner held in September, the restaurant was
adorned with 17 stunning bonsai plants (ranging from 20 to 300
years old) from Omiya Bonsai Village. Guests were served seasonal
tile fish partnered with delicate chrysanthemum petals in a clear
soup, followed by glistening tuna sashimi and a variety of delicate
sushi. Other sublime highlights included the crisp, airy tempura
of prawn, maitake mushroom and eggplant, and the perfectly
grilled wagyu beef fillet. The experience was complete with the
finest sakes (including Rokushu sparkling sake and a special wine
christened “Goes well with beef”).
• 51 •

FOOD / LUXURY DINING SERIES

NIGHTCAP AT THE BAR


During the Luxury Group Dining Series event, award-winning
bartenders Kentaro Wada of The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo and Yosuke Asano
from The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto presented four cocktails inspired by the
Nakasendo Way — an ancient route linking Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. The
concoctions were also based on Japan’s 72 microclimates, connecting
the different seasons of Japan with the ingredients native to the
country. Kentaro says, “We believe that every cocktail is a story waiting
to be told — a narrative infused with passion, culture, and creativity.”

The drinks were served in specially crafted 3D-printed cocktail vessels


EXQUISITE AFTERNOON TEA
by Italian manufacturer 3D Vault. One of the dramatic creations was a
Guests were treated to a beautifully
miniature sakura tree with a glass at the bottom — when a concoction
curated afternoon tea at The Lobby
is poured through, it trickles into the drink, changing its colour.
Lounge featuring artisanal Sugi Bee
Honey. Founded in 1946 in Kumamoto,
From this November, The Bar (recognised by World’s 50 Best
Kyushu Island, Sugi Bee Garden’s honey
Discovery), will be serving these innovative new cocktails. Some of the
is known for its rich floral notes and
highlights to look forward to include the savoury Shubun, Autumnal
exceptional quality. President Koichi
Equinoc made with Japanese craft vodka Haku, seasonal tomato,
Yoneda was present to share insights about
chicken consomme soup, ryogoku shichimi, and seasonal Japanese
his company’s beekeeping practices and
herb. There’s also the refreshing Shosetsu – a concoction of Ki No Tea
wholesome honey products.
Kyoto Dry Gin, with Horii Shichimeien hojicha, Lillet Blanc, Japanese
fresh bergamot, and red pinewood the Japanese bitters.
Executive Pastry Chef Jong Tze Khang and
his team rolled out a host of creative sweet
and savoury treats, alongside a dessert
NEW COCKTAILS INSPIRED BY THE ANCIENT NAKASENDO ROUTE.
trolley laden with Manuka Honey Orange
Spice bread; Raspberry Honey Madeleine;
Bee Pollen Sablé; Honey Comb Candy and
Jara Honey Florentine.

FOUR-HANDS BRUNCH
A special brunch at Bistronomy Towers was
prepared by Chef de Cuisine Takuji Nakano
in collaboration with Chef Vladimir Veiga
from Michelin-starred LAB by Sergi Arola in
Portugal. The menu, featuring a range of
appetisers followed by mains of poached
seabass and veal with Japanese langoustine,
was matched with green tea, including
Ritz-Carlton Tokyo’s exclusive original blend
of green tea grown in Wazuka, Kyoto. A
highlight of the brunch was the sencha tea
pairing session led by Noriyasu Ueshima, a
tea master and fifth-generation tea farmer
from Wazuka, Kyoto.
Capturing Kyoto’s
seasonal beauty
Chef ’s Table By Katsuhito Inoue offers an imaginative, one-
of-a-kind menu and an unforgettable dining experience that
celebrates flavour, craftsmanship, and an artistry.
B Y A M Y VA N
P H O T O S : T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N , K Y O T O
• 53 •

F O O D / C H E F ’ S TA B L E

THE ONE-OF-A-KIND CHEF’S TABLE IS BASED ON THREE FOUNDATIONS: KYOTO’S LOCALITY, JAPANESE SENSE OF
BEAUTY, AND CHEF KATSUHITO INOUE AND GARDENER KOUKI SUZUKI’S COLLABORATIVE ARTISANAL WORK.

Chef’s Table by Katsuhito Inoue is a hidden gem the 2019 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and awarded
within The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto. Unveiled on one star in the Michelin Guide. He has been in his
4 October, the newly transformed space is a current position since 2019.
feast for both the palate and the eyes. It also
pays homage to Kyoto’s rich culinary heritage, For him, dining is not only about aesthetics and
reimagined through the refined lens of modern flavour but also about promoting well-being and
kaiseki cuisine. harmony with nature. Embracing Kyoto’s tradition of
zero-waste cooking, he draws inspiration from the
Tucked away behind a sliding door is an intimate city’s centuries-old ethos of collective betterment.
space whose table is decked with the most The chef’s philosophy is deeply rooted in Kyoto’s 72
beautiful autumnal arrangement — as if you are micro-seasons, with creations that reflect the ever-
dining in a miniature garden. Positioned just in front changing landscape and seasonal bounty.
of the table is a counter where Chef Katsuhito Inoue
and his team demonstrate their culinary artistry. The culinary journey in this unique space is
elevated via a collaboration with gardener Kouki
The chef was raised in a family with deep culinary Suzuki (who is involved in hand-picking the foliage
roots. His grandfather operated a high-end and flowers). The carefully selected natural granite
wagyu business, and his father ran a prestigious stone for the tabletop enhances the presentation of
steakhouse. After honing his skills in some of the ingredients and chef’s creations. Furthermore,
Europe’s top kitchens, including those in Spain and every element, from the cutlery to the tableware,
Italy, Katsuhito developed a modern approach to has been thoughtfully crafted in collaboration with
cooking while staying true to his family’s traditions. local artisans.

Prior to this, he was head chef at Bvlgari Il In the following interview, the chef tells us more about
Ristorante Luca Fantin, which was ranked 18th in the restaurant’s concept and culinary philosophy.
• 54 •

F O O D / C H E F ’ S TA B L E

The best part of the Chef ’s Table Thoughts on Kyoto’s ingredients and cuisine CHEF INOUE
The heart of the Chef’s Table experience lies in Fresh fish, prawns, octopus, shellfish, CAREFULLY SELECTS
preparing each dish in front of our guests. While and other seafood arrive from Awaji THE IDEAL RICE
GRAIN, WITH A
meticulous preparation is done in advance — from each morning, alongside seasonal Kyoto
METICULOUS FOCUS
carefully handling ingredients to drawing broth vegetables, local eggs, milk, produce grown ON WATER QUALITY
over hours — cooking takes place just in time for by generations of farmers, and meticulously AND PRECISION
serving, with only minimal finishing touches. nurtured beef. These are irreplaceable gifts, IN COOKING
each imbued with a unique life. No two days TECHNIQUES. FOR
THIS RICE CREATION,
Techniques like grilling, boiling, steaming, bring the same ingredients; it is both my role
CHEF BLENDS
and frying are all executed right in front of the and mission as a chef to respect this life and TRADITIONAL
guests, allowing them to experience each dish bring out the best in each. Daily changes JAPANESE FLAVOURS
with all five senses. We believe the essence of in these offerings inspire new creations and WITH INNOVATIVE
the Chef’s Table is for guests to enjoy the full deepen our connection to nature and the GLOBAL TECHNIQUES.

process of creation in real time, from the sizzling cycle of life. We strive to convey the depth
sounds and fragrant aromas to the rising steam and seriousness of this story to our guests,
and vibrant colours, making each moment as inviting them to experience the narrative
memorable as the dish itself. within each ingredient.
• 55 •

F O O D / C H E F ’ S TA B L E

Kyoto water and cooking


Every morning, we draw pure groundwater
from a sacred shrine in Kyoto to create the
foundational stock for our cuisine. This water,
with its clear taste and soft texture, is essential to
elevate the flavours of each dish. In Japan, there
is a longstanding tradition of hospitality in which
hosts draw fresh water before welcoming guests,
using it to prepare tea as a gesture of offering
the purest and most pristine refreshment.

This practice reflects the Japanese spirit of


“omotenashi” — welcoming guests with
deep sincerity. Kyoto’s soft water is especially
suited to drawing out the delicate flavours of BEFORE
RETURNING TO
Japanese ingredients and is the very base of our
JAPAN, CHEF
culinary creations. We are deeply committed to KATSUHITO
preserving the quality of Kyoto’s water to provide INOUE HONED
our guests with an experience of true refinement. HIS CRAFT
IN SOME OF
EUROPE’S FINEST
Rice possibilities and the 72 seasons KITCHENS.
In the “ojiya” rice dish served at the end of the
meal, we capture the spirit of Japan’s 72 micro-
seasons, reflecting each subtle change in nature. Zero-disposal cuisine
But rice is not always used in its simple form. We To achieve a “zero-disposal” approach to cooking, I incorporate a
dry and fry rice to create chips that mimic fish variety of resourceful techniques. For example, vegetable trimmings
scales, adding an accent to seafood dishes, and we are used to make homemade bread, and we create stock from the
explore rice’s versatility through diverse techniques. day’s fish bones, which become a rich base for soups and sauces. Even
For example, rice straw is used to smoked vegetable scraps are soaked in vinegar to add subtle aroma, and no
dishes for a rich, smoky aroma, while homemade part of any ingredient goes to waste. We further maximise flavours
fermented seasonings are crafted from rice malt by slow-cooking peels and cores into seasonings and incorporating
to deepen flavours. By leveraging rice’s starch inedible parts into miso preparation.
for a soft texture and incorporating it in inventive
ways, we introduce a unique depth to each dish, This philosophy is inspired by the “spirit of sashiwari” that deeply
showcasing rice’s potential across the seasons. rooted in Kyoto. The word “sashiwari” means “from beginning to end,”
or in other words, the spirit of using everything with care until the very
end, a mindset that values using everything with respect. For a chef, it’s
essential to creatively use all ingredients to the fullest, and this approach
not only minimizes waste but fosters originality and innovation. We
believe that these efforts give rise to unique dishes, memorable
experiences, and meaningful advancements in culinary practice.

What can guests expect?


Guests will get to experience the evolution of kaiseki cuisine like never
before, where each bite resonates with the timeless spirit of Kyoto.
Since moving to Kyoto and working closely with local producers, I’ve
gained a profound appreciation for the significance and responsibility
of participating in agriculture here. As a chef and cultural steward, my
role extends beyond creating and serving food—it is about thoughtfully
preserving the cultural legacy and ensuring that this heritage endures for
future generations.
Sip into the season
Discover fresh takes on holiday drinks with expert
pairings that bring a twist to your festive spread.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N

For the ultimate holiday meal, choosing the perfect drink is as important as selecting the food itself. While
traditional pairings like champagne or red wine may be the go-to choices for many, why not explore something
a little more unexpected this year? In the world of beverages, the options are plentiful, and when it comes
to festive meals, variety can elevate your dining experience. Whether you stick to time-honoured classics or
venture into bold and surprising combinations, these recommendations by top sommeliers and bartenders will
inspire you to mix things up this festive season.
• 57 •

DRINKS / UNCONVENTIONAL PAIRINGS

Classic combinations Lesley Liu, Odette’s sommelier, Over at Manhattan, one of Singapore’s
Pairing the perfect drink with a festive approaches this by creating contrasts leading cocktail bars, head bartender
meal is no small task, especially when between the dish and the drink. “I Zana Möhlmann shares her approach
the food is rich and indulgent. Holiday prefer cocktails with a drier flavour to pairing cocktails with festive
feast staples like turkey and ham are profile to cut through the richness dishes. “Wine pairing is about finding
often accompanied by substantial and fattiness,” Lesley explains, noting complementary flavours, and cocktail
sides like stuffing, mashed potatoes, that a Negroni, garnished with dried pairing works the same way,” she says.
or glazed vegetables. burnt orange, is a perfect match Zana likes to use spirit-forward drinks with
for turkey. The citrus tones of the strong herbal or smoky notes to stand
garnish enhance the herbal dressings up to the rich, savoury flavours of holiday
commonly used in turkey preparation, meats. A smoky mezcal Negroni or a
providing a delightful balance. robust Vieux Carré, she says, are ideal
companions for turkey or Christmas ham,
She also suggests that an Aperol as their bold flavours create a balance
Spritz, with its bubbly and slightly that wine might not always achieve.
bitter profile, works well when
paired with festive dishes like When it comes to dessert, Zana
ham. “The bubbles refresh the believes that cocktails can provide a
palate, while the rosemary garnish refreshing contrast to the often-sugary
adds a subtle earthy note that ties nature of holiday sweets. “For spiced
everything together,” she says. For desserts like mince pies or poached
wines, Lesley recommends robust pears, I recommend something
reds, such as 2020 Montevertine zingy and fresh,” she explains. A
Toscana ‘Le Pergole Torte’ from Clover Club, with its blend of gin,
Italy. Made from 100% Sangiovese raspberry syrup, and lemon, offers
grapes, this wine offers earthy a bright and fruity counterpoint to
undertones, red fruit notes, and the richness of traditional holiday
strong tannins that help cut through desserts. Meanwhile, a Pisco Punch,
MANHATTAN’S HEAD
meat-heavy dishes. Its vibrant with its lively citrus flavours, adds an
BARTENDER, ZANA MÖHLMANN
acidity also enhances the flavours of extra dimension of zest to a Christmas
turkey or ham without overwhelming pudding, lightening the palate while
the palate. still complementing the spice.

LESLEY LIU, SOMMELIER


AT ODETTE
• 58 •

DRINKS / UNCONVENTIONAL PAIRINGS

KATE PASCAL, ASSISTANT MANAGER


AND TEA SPECIALIST AT ESORA

Unexpected pairings
If you’re looking to surprise your guests with
something different, non-alcoholic drinks can
provide just as much depth and flavour as their
alcoholic counterparts. Kate Pascal, assistant
manager and tea specialist at one-Michelin-
starred Japanese restaurant, Esora, suggests
using Japanese teas as an innovative alternative
to traditional wines or champagnes. “One of
the best ways to serve tea at a festive meal is to
carbonate it, making it sparkling,” Kate advises.
She compares the experience to drinking
champagne, with the added complexity of tea’s
delicate flavours. “Sparkling tea opens up the
palate and pairs well with many types of food,”
she adds.

Kate’s pairing of choice for festive ham is Hoji-


genmaicha, a roasted tea with nutty flavours and
sweet rice puffs that complement the meat’s
glaze. For Christmas puddings, she recommends
a black tea infused with vanilla or lavender.
“The floral notes add a delicate sweetness that
balances the heaviness of the dessert,” she
explains. Kate also highlights a recent discovery:
an Okumidori red tea smoked with Ichiro’s malt
barrel. “When I tasted it, I immediately thought
of pairing it with ham or turkey,” she says, noting
how the whiskey notes in the tea bring a new
depth to traditional holiday dishes.
DANIAL ROSMAN, BAR SUPERVISOR AT CHRISTINA’S

Balancing richness with brightness


Meanwhile, Danial Rosman, bar supervisor at Christina’s,
located within Mondrian Singapore Duxton, emphasises the
importance of acidity and brightness when balancing cocktails
with festive food. “I like to pair turkey and ham with cocktails
that have bright, acidic elements like citrus or cranberry,”
Rosman says. This contrast refreshes the palate and enhances
the flavours of the meat without overpowering them. He
suggests a cranberry-based cocktail or a citrus-forward gin fizz
for the perfect balance of richness and brightness.

When dealing with spicy or heavily spiced holiday dishes,


Danial’s strategy is to temper the heat with cooling ingredients
like cucumber or mint. “It’s important not to intensify the
spice,” he says, adding that the cocktail should support the
dish rather than overwhelm it. One of his favourite holiday
pairings is a mojito with mint and lime, which provides a
cooling counterpoint to spiced meats or desserts.

Danial, who recently won Young Mixologist at the Young


Chef Young Waiter Young Mixologist 2024 competition,
also enjoys experimenting with unexpected flavour
combinations. One pairing he swears by is Advocaat, a
rich and creamy liqueur, mixed with coffee. “I think it pairs
beautifully with mince pies or spiced cookies,” he says. The
richness of Advocaat complements the sweetness of the
desserts, while the coffee adds depth and warmth to the
overall experience.

For any festive meal, Lesley believes that the goal is to find
balance and “…to enhance the flavours of the food while
bringing something new to the table.” So this year, don’t
be afraid to step out of your comfort zone – you just might
discover a new holiday tradition in the process.

BOMBER J
Spirited away
From sustainable bottles to new local flavours, raise your glass
to the new wave of spirits recently launched in Singapore.
B Y J O C E LY N TA N

I
n a world where sustainability and creativity and beverage industry, turning what might have been (ABOVE) ONE MAN’S
collide, Singapore is a vibrant hub for waste into unique, flavourful offerings. WASTE IS ANOTHER
MAN’S…ALCOHOL?
innovative alcohols that celebrate both
THESE THREE
flavour and the environment. This exciting new Sweet Cascara Vermouth breathes new life into the LIBATIONS FROM
wave of spirits isn’t just about quenching your discarded fruit of the coffee cherry, resulting in a rich, DISCARDED SPIRITS
thirst — it’s about crafting narratives that honour full-bodied vermouth that boasts deep, fruity notes DEMONSTRATE THAT
the past while looking towards a greener future. with layers of complexity. Ideal for crafting a delightful SUSTAINABILITY CAN
BE DELICIOUS TOO.
From inventive gins that evoke fond childhood Cascara Negroni, this vermouth exemplifies the brand’s
memories to bold sakes that challenge innovative approach, seamlessly blending creativity with a
traditional norms, explore new drinks that are commitment to reducing waste in an impactful way.
making waves in Singapore’s spirits scene.
Meanwhile, Banana Peel Rum offers a delightful tropical
Toward a sustainable future twist, ingeniously made from the peels of bananas
Imagine transforming yesterday’s waste into typically discarded after processing. This rum captures the
today’s liquid treasures. Singapore warmly comforting essence of banana bread, making it a perfect
welcomes a trio of innovative spirits from base for cocktails like the Banana Peel Old Fashioned,
Discarded Spirits Co., part of William Grant & where its warm flavours shine through. For those who prefer
Sons, demonstrating that sustainability can be spirit-forward options, Grape Skin Vodka is crafted from
irresistibly delicious. Each of these spirits — Spanish Chardonnay grape pomace, delivering a smooth
Sweet Cascara Vermouth, Banana Peel Rum, mouthfeel and an intricate tapestry of aromas that includes
and Grape Skin Vodka — has been thoughtfully hints of green apple, lychee, and a bold pink peppercorn
crafted from overlooked by-products of the food finish. This is perfect for sipping neat or in creative cocktails.
• 61 •

DRINKS / UNIQUE SPIRITS

Go local
Brass Lion Distillery continues to push the boundaries of craft spirits with its
latest creation, Hawthorn Gin, a remarkable spirit that blends Singaporean
nostalgia with artisanal craftsmanship. Drawing inspiration from the beloved
childhood treat of haw flakes, this gin utilises tangy Asian hawthorn berries
to deliver a bright, fruity profile that captures the essence of Singapore. The
flavour is beautifully balanced by a lingering, delicate sweetness, creating
a spirit that pays homage to local culture while being versatile enough for
various cocktail applications.

If you’re seeking the ideal refreshment on a lazy, balmy afternoon, consider


pouring a splash of Hawthorn Gin with tonic and garnishing it with a twist of
orange. This combination transforms the gin into a refreshing drink that pairs
wonderfully with the tropical climate.

That’s not all: Brass Lion further reinforces its sustainability commitment
by offering delicious hawthorn fruit strips made from spent botanicals with
every bottle — these strips serve as a tasty snack and a charming cocktail HAWTHORN GIN AND TONIC, COMPLETE WITH
garnish, further minimising waste and celebrating local flavours. AN ORANGE TWIST

BRASS LION DISTILLERY’S LATEST CREATION, THE


HAWTHORN GIN, IS INSPIRED BY THE LOCAL
FAVOURITE SNACK, HAWTHORN FLAKES.
• 62 •

DRINKS / UNIQUE SPIRITS

AGAINST THE GRAIN IS SINGAPORE’S NEWEST SAKE


For good time’s sake
IN TOWN, CREATED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF Breaking the mold of traditional sake, Against the Grain
SINGAPOREAN DESIGNER LARRY PEH by normat is more than just a drink — it’s a bold statement
about reimagining how we perceive and enjoy sake. Crafted
in Niigata, Japan, under the creative direction of visionary
Singaporean designer Larry Peh, this sake marries classic
Japanese craftsmanship with modern, global flavours, aimed
at defying conventional expectations and rewriting the rules
of sake consumption.

The Junmai Daiginjo is brewed from 100% Koshitanrei rice,


resulting in a silky-smooth sake that features enticing notes of
sweetness and umami, gliding effortlessly across the palate.
With its mellow fruit aroma and a finish as delicate as melting
snow, this sake pairs beautifully with a wide range of dishes
— from fresh sushi to local hawker favourites like Nasi Lemak,
making it an incredibly versatile choice for any dining occasion.

Conversely, the Tokubetsu Junmai offers a more


complex tasting experience, brewed with a rare blend of
Gohyakumangoku and Tsukiakari rice. This sake presents
bold umami, subtle acidity, and a lingering velvety texture.
Adding to the charm of this unique offering is a cool
surprise: a whimsical graphic hidden beneath the back label,
which adds a playful touch to Peh’s creation.

CHOOSE FROM TWO OPTIONS:


THE JUNMAI DAIGINJO OR THE TOKUBETSU JUNMAI
•• 6633 ••

F O FOODO /D F/E X
STXI V E

Holiday Feast
Celebrate this joyous season with classic fare from Wolfgang’s Steakhouse

S
pecial occasions call for an exceptional experience, The meal is perfectly complemented by decadent sides like
and there’s no better venue to celebrate the festive creamy mac n’ cheese, fried onion rings, sautéed mushrooms,
season than at Wolfgang’s Steakhouse by Wolfgang and the steakhouse’s popular creamed spinach. For a sweet
Zwiener, nestled within the Intercontinental Singapore finale, Wolfgang’s signature Chocolate Yule Log, wheeled to the
Robertson Quay. diner’s table on a traditional dessert trolley, completes the dining
experience with a flourish.
The month of December will be one to remember as the
restaurant presents an exclusive Christmas set menu. Not to be missed from the beverage menu is the White Noel cocktail,
Available for two ($428) and four guests ($828), the feast a whimsical tipple that fits the spirit of the season. Blending vodka,
begins with your choice of the soup of the day or a richly Baileys, caramel toffee, creamy white cacao blue curaçao, the drink is
indulgent lobster bisque, followed by an array of premium delicately finished with a hint of dried cranberry for a velvety treat.
entrées which showcase the restaurant’s expertise with
premium cuts such as the 100% USDA Prime Ribeye Steak In addition to the Christmas set menu, Wolfgang’s offers a festive
and the USDA Prime Filet Mignon; as well as Grilled King lunch menu daily until 4pm, featuring select favourites for those who
Salmon and Colorado Lamb Chops. wish to enjoy their celebration in a more relaxed atmosphere.
The voice of autumn
René Redzepi and the Noma team return to Japan’s Ace Hotel Kyoto for a
second Noma Kyoto pop-up, capturing the spirit of Autumn in a tasting menu
replete with seasonal mushrooms, full-flavoured game, and resplendent foliage.

B Y R E N Y I L I M , P H O T O S B Y N O M A K Y O T O / M I T S U R U WA K A B A Y A S H I

“P
sst - you’re not supposed to eat the leaf!” my In my defence, leaves play a leading role in Noma’s 10-week
dining companion whispers from across the residency at Ace Hotel Kyoto — the second of its kind — which
table. I look down in horror at the fig leaf I’ve runs from 8 October to 18 December this year. About 5,000
been nibbling, along with the piece of fruit leather on pressed and hand-sewn leaves dangle inside the restaurant in
top of it. Our waiter looks thoroughly amused (“It’s is the a kaleidoscope of autumnal colours, while pristine greenery
first time it’s happened this season!” he chuckles) before accompanies many of the dishes on this year’s menu as
reassuring me that I’ll live through the night. Perhaps the decorative, textural, and aromatic elements. Fall is out in full
inadvertent ingestion of foliage is par for the course during force at this collaboration between Noma and Atelier Ace, which
lunch or dinner at Noma Kyoto — and in the spirit of — inevitably — was fully booked within an hour of reservations
autumn, too. being released.
• 65 •

T R AV E L / N O M A K Y OTO

(CLOCKWISE, FROM OPPOSING PAGE) KING CRAB LEG items such as kuromoji (spice bush) stems, Aomori pine, and kabosu citrus
ATOP OHARA-FORAGED LEAVES; DANISH CHEF RENÉ fruits. “Actually, the ingredients that wow me the most are things that we
REDZEPI, CO-OWNER OF NOMA; MYOGA IN AMAZAKE
SAUCE; FOREST BROTH AND HUSCUP BERRY FRUIT
take for granted, in the sense that they’re usually available elsewhere —
LEATHER LEAF. but when you have them here, they’re fresh and it’s picked on the same
day,” Kenneth remarks.

As might be expected of Noma, foraging for ingredients continues to play a


primary role in guiding the direction of their Kyoto menu. The kitchen team
journeys out to the prefecture’s countryside every week to search for leaves
and wild Japanese forest herbs like sorrel, while professional foragers on
Noma Kyoto’s roster venture as far as Shige Prefecture and Lake Biwa.

An opening dish of matsutake pine mushrooms — grilled lightly before being


sliced and steamed, then served beneath a pile of foliage foraged from
the rural mountain town of Ohara in northern Kyoto — exemplifies Noma’s
philosophy of presenting a challenging dish that manages to refrain from
drifting into esotericism. The matsutake’s earthy notes shine through with the
singular adornment of a nutty rose fudge sauce, painted on at the table using
a magnolia flower brush, while the leaves (which we search through by hand to
find our mushrooms) bring to mind a glistening forest floor.
Where 2023’s Noma Kyoto residency took place
in spring, 2024 presents an entirely different
The two dishes that follow hint at the labour intensive work performed by
playground for Danish chef and co-owner of
Noma’s kitchen team: first, a silken, savoury jellied broth of king crab (one
Noma, René Redzepi, and his restaurant team,
of René’s favourite ingredients of the season) with mushroom gel hidden
who’ve spent the past year preparing for their
beneath, topped with pine oil and snow-like shavings of almonds. If it were
time in Japan, right down to selecting ceramic
physically possible to eat a piece of fragrant wood, I think, this is what it might
crockery and commissioning new cedar furniture
taste like. Lightly cured salmon roe sprinkled with bergamot and pumpkin
pieces. “The sakura season is justly famous
bushi — ripe pumpkin that’s been painstakingly hand-grated, dried, and
around the world, but the explosion of autumn
smoked for up to two months — is served in a hand-folded leaf flute that gets
reds and golds that define koyo season is just
tipped straight into our mouths.
as stunning,” René remarks. “So, too, are the
ingredients synonymous with fall in Japan:
A bowl of still-green ginkgo nuts roasted in sencha butter stakes a solid
wonders that grow in the forest, beautiful
claim to being the star of the season at Noma Kyoto. Picked while unripe
seafood, and a variety of game.”
and still attached to their trees, the nuts are paired with minuscule pinecones
gathered in Copenhagen and preserved in salt brine, answering a question
Noma’s creative process is a subtle art that
posed by Kenneth earlier: “How can we bring Copenhagen fall here, but
walks the finest of lines between amplifying an
ingredient’s flavours to reveal the fullness of its
autumnal voice or simply letting it speak quietly
on its own terms. “We always try to have a fresh
approach to our pop-ups, and this time, René was
quite adamant about this idea of polishing rice,”
explains head chef Kenneth Foong Kin Meng.
“In saké production, the finest saké is polished
down to 60-80 percent. What we were after was
creating something that’s great at face value, then
polishing it several times more to get it to another
level — but without gilding the lily unnecessarily,”
says the Singaporean chef.

There has been a wealth of produce to


experiment with, ranging from magnificent
mushrooms, game, and shellfish to more obscure
• 66 •

T R AV E L / N O M A K Y OTO

(FROM LEFT) CHESTNUTS WITH CAVIAR;


NOMA’S SINGAPORE-BORN HEAD
CHEF, KENNETH FOONG KIN MENG;
INTERIOR STYLIST CHRISTINE RUDOLPH
WORKED WITH DESIGN PARTNER OEO
STUDIO AND TOKYO FURNITURE BRAND
TIME & STYLE TO TRANSFORM ONE
OF ACE HOTEL KYOTO’S EXISTING
RESTAURANTS INTO NOMA KYOTO

also make you feel like you’re in the middle of generously in egg yolk, sukiyaki-style. Portions of wild deer, newly plumped in
a Kanazawa forest?” Bathed in a delicate sauce preparation for Japan’s colder months, are served as part of a hot pot course
derived from tomato water, the waxy texture of with pearlescent ribbons of fat, partnered with bairingu mushrooms, seaweed-
the ginkgo nuts and crumbling crunch of the cured yuba skin, and a dipping sauce of sunflower seeds and shiso flowers.
pinecones are unlike anything I’ve ever eaten —
or may ever eat again. It is, however, a lightness of touch that shows Noma Kyoto at its most
magically transportive during the 14-course meal. A salad of pink myoga
Embracing the spontaneity of every season is ginger, Japanese tsuru-murasaki spinach, seaweed, a parsley and sansho
deeply embedded in Noma’s DNA, and that holds pepper paste, and a sauce of jasmine, amazake (a fermented rice drink), and
true in Kyoto too. “Things change. It’s what we bergamot is by turns intriguing and perplexing, tasting of soap, perfume,
always tell our cooks,” Kenneth says, pointing and fragrant flowers. A warm forest broth concocted from mushrooms,
out that Japan’s abundance of micro-climates pine, and sansho arrives concealed beneath green and red Japanese maple
can proffer fabulous produce that’s only available leaves, which we’re encouraged to stick our faces into. I picture wind-teased
for, say, 10 days. “There’s something magical treetops before biting into sharply sour fruit leather made of wild huscup
about the fleeting nature of having really cool berries gathered in Hokkaido (and misguidedly, the leaf beneath it).
ingredients to work with, but only for the blink of
an eye — then it goes away. When we have things A sense of illusory playfulness permeates the final three courses, starting with
we’ve never seen before that aren’t available sweet oysters composed of milk ice cream, mikan compote, and milk crumbs,
outside of Japan, it’s like being kids in a candy all shaped in individual silicone moulds that are painted using seven different
store: we’re curious and we just want to taste, colours, and intended to be eaten shell and all. Warm chestnut custard with
touch, and smell everything.” pumpkin seeds, hojicha tea gel, and caviar appear in a hollowed-out, bur-
covered Japanese chestnut, looking strangely akin to a sea urchin. And a
Heartier dishes rooted in the seas and ground whole peanut constructed from peanut mousse is eaten with a Mexican-style
echo that mingling of transience and wonder: chocolate sauce, elderflower oil, and a single candied pinecone.
sliced shiro bagai sea snails from Fukui prefecture
served with barbecued squares of Noma’s Encapsulating autumn within a tasting menu is a feat to marvel at, and Noma
barley koji; black rice cooked in Kyoto spring Kyoto has managed to capture the season’s earthy glory, stirringly evocative
water with kelp salt and squid sauce; and meaty details, and ephemeral nature (what the Japanese might refer to as wabi-
abalone mushrooms with a whisky glaze, expertly sabi) with characteristic imagination and a boldness of vision. To experience it
caramelised over a grill before being dipped all again, I’d gladly eat another leaf — or, for that matter, an entire bushel.
• 67 •

S PE C I A L F E AT U R E

Brand new chapter


After 60 years of F&B expertise, the former Sopexa is now called
HOPSCOTCH Season. The pioneering events and public relations
group writes a new chapter in its history.

I
n June 2024, Sopexa evolved and
changed its name to HOPSCOTCH
Season. This fresh transformation
marks a new era driven by a fitting
ambition to extend their food &
beverage expertise to the lifestyle and
cultural experiences that enrich lives
around the world.

It is not just a name change.


HOPSCOTCH Season is evolving while
maintaining what has been integral to
their DNA for over 60 years — creating
impactful campaigns, promoting products
across all continents, delivering messages Brand new chapter
that resonate, and evoking emotions that EXAMPLES OF EVENTS BY
The change is part of a development dynamic
leave a lasting impression. HOPSCOTCH SEASON
that enables the group to extend their
• Asia’s Best French Wine Sommelier
consulting activities while promoting art de
The group has worked closely with Contest: An annual contest powered by
vivre around the world.
companies, brands, local authorities Taste France that identifies and rewards
and institutions in the food and the top sommeliers in Asia, promoting
With a team of 250 passionate, multicultural
beverage sector in the development and French wines and enhancing the wine
experts, HOPSCOTCH Season is in-the-know
implementation of their international culture in the region.
with market trends and local influencers. To
communication and influence strategies. create impactful communication strategies,
More creative, more innovative, and • European Cheese Campaign: A 360
HOPSCOTCH Season provides clients with
more ambitious than ever, the group campaign for the French Dairy Board,
in-depth understanding of the sectors,
continues to work towards creating that promotes European cheese,
consumers, and target markets.
engagement as well as uniting highlighting the unique characteristics
communities with awareness of of agricultural production methods in
HOPSCOTCH Season’s industry specialists
environmental and social issues. the European Union.
have unique insights into products,
particularly the wine and spirits sector.
Integrated into the Hopscotch network The group also has detailed knowledge
since 2019, Hopscotch Season of institutional financing regulations,
accelerates synergies between different guaranteeing enhanced reliability in the
business and sectoral expertise. This management of collective campaigns
cohesive group, which is present in 30 benefiting from public co-financing.
countries, is dedicated to producing
both global and local campaigns, Their expertise covers the full range of
to enhance the visibility of products marketing and communications, enabling
and brands, leveraging their long- them support clients with integrated
established relational network. 360° campaigns.
• 68 •

T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D

Nature’s playground renewed


Kangaroo Island's resilience has been evident over the past few years. The destination
has bounced back after the devastating bushfires in 2020. And today, the newly
rebuilt Southern Ocean Lodge and its surroundings are flourishing once again.

B Y A M Y VA N
PHOTOS SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION AND SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE
• 69 •

T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D

(ABOVE) SOL THE SEMI-WILD KANGAROO RETURNS TO SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE FOR A VISIT.
(BELOW) STROLL ALONG THE BOARDWALK FOR THE BEST OCEAN VIEWS.

M
ost people may not realise that
Kangaroo Island is similar in size to Bali,
and six times bigger than Singapore.
Australia’s third largest island, located 13km off
the mainland of South Australia, is blessed with
rugged coastlines and pristine waters. A third
of its area is protected nature reserves, home
to diverse wildlife such as koalas, kangaroos,
wallabies, sea lions, fur seals, and echidnas. You
might even encounter some of these animals
roaming freely in their habitat. The vegetation surrounding the resort have also
regenerated, including the resilient yucca trees with their
The Black Summer bushfires of 2020 – the largest bushy palms, known for their ability to thrive after fires.
in Kangaroo Island's recorded history – burned
nearly half of the island and affected vast numbers Even Sol, the lodge’s semi-blind and semi-wild resident
of wildlife. Four years later, the landscape has kangaroo, has returned for a visit. Hand-raised as an
returned to its natural glory. orphan by the lodge, Sol was thought to have perished
in the bushfire. However, he cleverly sheltered under
The iconic Southern Ocean Lodge (SOL), set the sprinkler system to save himself. Half a dozen staff
on the picturesque cliffs of the southwest coast, members who remained at the lodge during the fires
was razed in the fires. The owners committed also survived by taking refuge in bunkers. When Sol
to rebuilding the 25-suite property, which was reappeared after the bushfire, it reaffirmed to everyone
successfully reconstructed and reopened in that Kangaroo Island is a place of remarkable resilience
December 2023. and wonder.
• 70 •

T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D

Signature experiences
Today, guests of the luxury lodge are welcomed
back to its brand new premises. The highlight
of your stay will be participating in the various
signature experiences and discovering the island’s
natural attractions.

The guided tours organised by Southern Ocean


Lodge include the Seal Bay Safari. For about
two hours, wander among Australia’s third
largest colony of sea lions along the shores of
the Southern Ocean at Seal Bay Conservation
Park. During the tour, the lodge's expert guide
will lead you along the boardwalk and down to
the beach to observe the wild sea lions. Watch
as the mothers rest after hunting for fish, while
adorable, curious pups play in the sand.

Another spectacular highlight of the island is


its stunning coastal rock formations. Flinders
Chase National Park in the west is famous for
the breathtaking sculpted Remarkable Rocks.
To truly appreciate their beauty, you must be
there to experience them firsthand. The granite
boulders, streaked with orange-gold lichen, have
been shaped by forces of nature – wind, water,
etc. – over 500 million years. Enjoy a few minutes
of “hide-and-seek” among the rocks, and snap
your Instagram-worthy photos before the crowds
ascend the rocky slopes.

In the area too is the impressive stalactite-


covered Admirals Arch, which you approach via a
series of zigzagging stairs. As you meander down
the walkway, pause along the way to take in the
sweeping ocean views.

Between these rock explorations, your guide will


captivate you with stories from the era of sailing
ships in the treacherous Southern ocean. While
CURIOUS BABY SEA LIONS HANGING OUT AT THE SEAL BAY you listen to tales of shipwrecks and lighthouses
CONSERVATION PARK; PERCHED ABOVE THE SEA IN FLINDERS CHASE
NATIONAL PARK, REMARKABLE ROCKS ARE A CLUSTER OF GRANITE of yesteryear, munch on homemade scones paired
BOULDERS SCULPTED BY THE FORCES OF NATURE. with tea.
• 71 •

T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D

If you’re eager for more encounters with furry wildlife, (FROM TOP) PAUSE TO TAKE IN THE OCEAN VIEWS ON YOUR WAY TO
your guide can take you to the Hanson Bay Sanctuary, THE ADMIRALS ARCH; SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE'S LOUNGE HAS A
SELF-SERVE OPEN BAR WITH A WIDE RANGE OF BEVERAGES.
where koalas can be spotted snoozing in the treetops
after feasting on eucalyptus leaves. In the evenings,
you be immersed in the history of the early settlers at
Grassdale, enjoying drinks and snacks as kangaroos
venture out to graze.

Beyond those iconic spots, guests will have the


chance to explore the labyrinth of sinkholes and
caverns in the subterranean Kelly Hill Caves, along
with guided commentary. The signature experiences
run year-round. But during the summer months,
guests might opt for bespoke experiences like
beach fishing or a hike back along the coast from
Remarkable Rocks. You can tailor your own getaway,
and choose to participate in as many scheduled
experiences or as few if you wish.

Back in the lodge


After returning from the great outdoors, soak in the
tranquillity of the lodge. You can head to the calming
Southern Spa, which boasts three treatment rooms.
Or unwind in the sauna or temperature-controlled hot
and cold plunge pools.

Alternatively, simply lounge at the Great Room with


floor-to-ceiling windows and seek out the inviting
open bar laden with an extensive range of alcoholic
drinks. Try the local honey liqueur or Baillies 9 wild
gin (the lodge’s own small batch gin using fresh
botanicals including the island's native juniper,
blended by Kangaroo Island’s resident distillers John
and Sarah Lark of KI Spirits). The staff are on-hand to
assist with concocting a cocktail – or three. Sunset
drinks are served each evening to allow guests to
mingle and share the day’s adventures.

A stay at the lodge is inclusive of all meals, help-


yourself bar stocked with premium beverages,
and an in-suite bar generously filled with a daily-
replenished selection of local cookies, chocolates,
nougat, cheese and beverages.
• 72 •

T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D

(FROM TOP) DURING BREEZY EVENINGS, UNWIND AT SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE'S OUTDOOR AREA COMPLETE WITH A
MODERN FIREPLACE; PICK YOUR FAVOURITE SIPS IN THE WALK-IN CELLAR; FEAST ON KANGAROO ISLAND PRODUCE AT
THE LODGE'S RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW.

What's even more exciting for wine enthusiasts is the


opportunity to explore the walk-in cellar. Feel free to pick any
bottle of wine you'd like to try and take it to the table to pair
with your meals.The cellar wines are carefully curated, with
many only available at South Australia’s cellar doors. Kangaroo
Island is a relatively new and lesser-known wine region, so be
sure to sample some of its vinous offerings, such as the elegant
and refined wines from Islander Estate.

The gourmet food at the lodge is excellent to boot, offering


a memorable Southern Australian culinary experience. The
menu of locally sourced food and beverages is designed to
connect guests with Kangaroo Island’s farmers and artisan
producers. The chefs source fresh produce from nearby,
including honey, olives, marron, oysters, fresh range eggs,
and many others.

A four-course menu changes daily, incorporating the freshest


island and regional ingredients with seasonal flavours. Expect
to savour dishes like sweet local marron, line-caught whiting,
pork with tamarind glaze, apple and celeriac, or Port Lincoln
Kinkawooka mussels with green curry and roti. Dessert might
include creations like cornflake ice cream sandwich with
honeycomb and popcorn, followed by a selection of cheeses.
• 73 •

T R AV E L / K A N G A RO O I S L A N D

Rest & relax


Back in your suite, admire the golden summer sunset, or if you
are extremely lucky, catch a glimpse of the Southern Lights
during dark winter nights. Wake up to a glorious sunrise as you
watch the waves break on the shore.

When the 25 suites were rebuilt, they were reoriented to


provide even better views of the ocean and coastal wilderness.
The new orientation of the modern architectural design now
features generous indoor and outdoor lounging areas, as well
as baths and cosy Eco-Smart fireplaces.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Environmental sustainability is a core of the lodge’s SOL is set overlooking Hanson Bay on Kangaroo Island’s
new design, with a significant hybrid solar and battery south-west coast.
infrastructure that enables the luxury lodge to operate
off-grid in its remote location while reducing diesel fuel To get there, Qantas Link operates 50 minutes flights
consumption by more than 50 percent. connecting Adelaide to Kingscote (KI Airport). The resort
is 50 mins drive from the airport. The all-inclusive stay
Finally, a journey to Kangaroo Island is made even more also covers airport transfers and signature experiences.
memorable thanks to the warm and affable staff who ensure
that everyone is well-fed and pampered from the moment they The signature experiences operate at scheduled times and
arrive until they leave. Be warned however: saying goodbye to are included in the guests’ itineraries based on length of
this stunning destination can be extremely difficult. stay and arrival/ departure times.

(FROM TOP) THE LODGE'S FLINDERS SUITE BATHROOM WITH SEA VIEWS; SAYING GOODBYE TO THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE IS VERY TOUGH
• 74 •

T R AV E L / C A N B E R R A

Capital interest
The landscape is pristine, the community is diverse, and the culinary scene is outstanding.
Here’s why Canberra should be on every food lover’s radar.
B Y A M Y VA N
PHOTOS: VISIT CANBERRA AND TOURISM AUSTRALIA
• 75 •

T R AV E L / C A N B E R R A

CANBERRA BOASTS WORLD CLASS MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES LIKE THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF AUSTRALIA.

E
veryone knows that Canberra is Australia’s and oak trees, followed by fabulous truffle-
capital, where politicians convene for serious inspired meals.
sessions at the parliament. But the city’s
appeal extends beyond well-known landmarks Another bonus point is Canberra’s convenience:
like the Parliament House, the Australian War most attractions and activities are within a 15-to
Memorial, the National Gallery of Australia, and 20-minute drive, free from the traffic jams that
the National Museum of Australia. While these plague larger cities. The city’s proximity to stunning
iconic sites are significant, enlightening, and worth natural landscapes only adds to its appeal. And
visiting, Canberra might sometimes be perceived to get there is easy — just one-hour flight from
as a little bit formal and sterile – at least to those Melbourne or three hours’ drive from Sydney.
unfamiliar with its hidden charms.

What many don’t realise is that Canberra is


a gourmet wonderland. Unlike the bustling
energy of Sydney or Melbourne’s reputation as a
diverse food capital with a strong coffee culture,
Canberra offers a unique and understated culinary
scene. Here, you can enjoy café hopping in
neighbourhoods like Braddon, where the trendy
set mingle and sip on expertly brewed coffee
from artisan coffee roasters.

Beyond dining, this destination is also a thriving


cool-climate wine region whose cellar doors are
within easy reach from the city. Autumn brings the
added delight of truffle hunting among hazelnut
• 76 •

T R AV E L / C A N B E R R A

Modern dining
Sightseeing can be accomplished in a day
or two in Canberra, but be sure to weave in
culinary experiences or a caffeine fix when
you are in town. Firstly, swing by one of the
city’s modern restaurants, which rival those in
Melbourne and Sydney.

The funky younger sibling of Canberra’s renowned


Pilot, Such and Such (220 London Cct) is in
the heart of the city, just a short stroll from the
Canberra Theatre, a major performing arts venue.
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) SUCH AND SUCH IS A GREAT SPOT FOR MODERN AUSSIE
The restaurant’s eclectic interiors features terrazzo FLAVOURS; BRODBURGER DISHES OUT SOME OF THE BEST BURGERS IN CANBERRA;
ENJOY CASUAL ASIAN-INSPIRED FARE AT AKIBA.
flooring, coloured lights, and offbeat artwork.
There’s also an outdoor courtyard, perfect for
summer dining.
Akiba (40 Bunda St), also situated within the city centre, showcases the many
The menu offers a contemporary take on styles of Asian barbecue — cooked over wood and charcoal. The casual
nostalgic classics, with options that include menu is complemented by an exotic cocktail and drinks list.
snacks, share plates and larger dishes. Start with
the crumpet-like sourdough flatbread, followed Under the snacks and street food category, all manner of buns and
by anchovy and sage cruller with tuna tartare dumplings and pancakes are offered. Think: Japanese fried chicken bun
and artichoke. Mains might include pork cutlet, balanced with kewpie, sriracha and pickles, or the pork belly bun with char
fired up over charcoal and laced with a sweet siu and Asian slaw. There’s also a raw bar section dishing out items like
and sour sauce. Otherwise, try the duck with ocean trout tartare, brown butter, yuzu, dashi, and sesame.
fish sauce caramel and kumquat or Rangers
Valley striploin with smoked fat and mushroom Share plates consist of proteins like beef short rib with tamarind caramel,
butter. The drinks list ranges from organic, low- shiso chimichurri, and crisp shallot, or barramundi with miso lemon butter,
intervention wines to thoughtfully crafted non- pickled enoki, and pickled chilli. Akiba’s informal and convivial atmosphere
alcoholic alternatives. makes it a great spot for chilling out with friends.
• 77 •

T R AV E L / C A N B E R R A

(ABOVE) CANBERRA GLASSWORKS IS A HUGE GLASS MAKING FACILITY WHERE YOU CAN WATCH GLASS ARTISTS AT WORK.
(BELOW) CAPITAL BREWING CO COLLABORATED WITH BRODBURGER TO ROLL OUT A HOST OF SUPERB BURGERS AND BEERS.

Glass making, burgers and beers


Visit the suburb of Kingston, about 4km from the city centre, where you will
find Canberra Glassworks, the largest glass making facility in the Southern
Hemisphere dedicated to studio glass. The state-of-the-art studios and
exhibition space offer a unique experience for art enthusiasts. You can enjoy
contemporary glass art exhibitions, watch artists at work in the Hotshop,
take a self-guided tour of the facility, and shop for unique handmade items
in the Gallery Shop.

After your visit, pop by next door for a good meal of burgers and beers.
Capital Brewing Co is one of the largest independent craft breweries in
Australia. Be sure to try their seasonal releases, which is rolled out three
times a year. These special editions are designed to complement the Core
Range and Special Release beers, and are often crowd favourites from
previous small batch releases.

On cooler evenings, huddle at the long communal tables and enjoy cold
beer right next to the tank where it was brewed. Match your drinks with
some of the best burgers around. Capital Brewing’s team collaborated with
Brodburger to offer top-notch burgers and hotdogs. The range of creations
include flamed-grilled beef patties stacked with bacon, homemade aioli and
tomato relish. For something even more substantial, go for the sirloin steak
with bacon, egg, caramelised onion, beetroot, bbq aioli and tomato relish.
• 78 •

T R AV E L / C A N B E R R A

Truffle hunting
For a unique experience, visit Beltana, a small truffle orchard
(truffière) that boasts luxe accommodations and a superb
restaurant. Tucked away in picturesque Pialligo, Beltana Farm
is planted with over 800 trees.

“We started out as just a hobby and maybe a retirement


plan, but we fell in love with it and get to share the farm with
people,” says owner Alice O‘Mara, who established Beltana
11 years ago with and her husband Doug.

Alice explains that the trees are a mix of hazelnut and oak,
inoculated with fungi and spread across about three and a
half acres. “The truffle starts its life cycle roughly in October,
become fully grown by January and February depending on
the weather, and starts to ripen in May,” she shares.

During truffle season from June to August, Alice’s adorable


and enthusiastic resident dog, Drake, sniffs out the tubers,
which are later used in the restaurant's menu.

There are plenty waiting to be unearthed here. Visitors can


embark on truffle hunts on crisp winter mornings and enjoy
superb gourmet farm-to-table dining with shared plates in
the restaurant. The seasonal menu features the best of the
farm and regional produce and suppliers.

Beltana Farm “hunt and dine” experience allows a select


number of guests to participate in truffle hunts throughout
the winter months. They can learn firsthand how truffles are
grown, checked for maturity, and then harvested. It’s actually
more than a hunt – it's an immersive, hands-on activity.

For those looking to extend their stay, Beltana offers luxury


farm stay accommodations, including a contemporary
two-bedroom cottage; two-bedroom yurt for small groups
and families; and other options. Each accommodation
nestled within the property boasts plush furnishings, a
self-contained kitchen, a cosy fireplace, and all the modern
TRUFFLE FARM OWNER ALICE O'MARA AND DRAKE GO TRUFFLE HUNTING; amenities you need.
BELTANA'S RESTAURANT SERVES EXCELLENT SEASONAL DISHES.
• 79 •

T R AV E L / C A N B E R R A

PHOTO: KARA ROSENLUND

Cool climate wine tasting


From Beltana, consider exploring the renowned
Mount Majura Vineyard nearby.

The small cellar door at Mount Majura is


located only 15 minutes from Canberra’s city
centre. Book a wine tasting which comes with
cheese platter and cold cuts.

The range of wines include regional favourites


such as Riesling and Shiraz as well as the
flagship variety, Tempranillo. The winery also
features emerging and rare varieties like
Graciano and Ansonica.

Mount Majura's Local Favourites Wine Tasting


is a great way to get acquainted with their
selection. You might sample local favourites
Pinot Gris and Rosado or exciting new varieties
like Graciano and Mondeuse. The Winemakers
Choice Tasting is a terroir-driven tasting
experience that highlights their Tempranillo
wines. The tasting also includes Canberra
District varieties such as Riesling and Shiraz –
showcasing the best of Mount Majura Vineyard,
the Canberra District and the region.

Both tastings include six wines plus a small


complimentary tasting platter and takes around (FROM TOP) MOUNT
an hour. Tip: Lug home a bottle or more of MAJURA VINEYARD'S
their fine wines at the cellar door as they aren't CELLAR DOOR IS WORTH
A VISIT TO STOCK UP ON
available in many places outside of Australia.
THEIR ELEGANT WINES; IF
THE WEATHER PERMITS,
Canberra is like a "boutique" city that offers HOT AIR BALLOONING
many special moments and experiences – IN THE EARLY MORNING
from culture to excellent cuisine and wines. IS A SPECTACULAR
EXPERIENCE NOT TO BE
If you’ve never thought of visiting Canberra,
MISSED IN CANBERRA.
why not set aside a couple of days for this
destination when you are in Australia — you
will be duly charmed.
• 80 •

T R AV E L / P H U Q U O C

La Dolce Vita
The arrival of La Festa Phu Quoc, Curio Collection by Hilton on
Vietnam’s picturesque ‘Pearl Island’ brings a sophisticated injection of
Mediterranean glamour to the Italian-inspired Sunset Town development.
BY RENYI LIM
P H O T O S B Y L A F E S TA P H U Q U O C , C U R I O C O L L E C T I O N B Y H I LT O N

Blessed with stretches of sandy white beaches along its 150km the arrival of the first Curio Collection by Hilton property in
coastline, sparkling seas, and an abundance of year-round Vietnam, selected for its distinctive architecture and design,
sunshine, the island of Phu Quoc justifiably deserves its moniker of one-of-a-kind curated experiences, and polished culinary
‘Pearl Island’. Set in the Gulf of Thailand towards the southernmost offerings - all of the brand’s characteristic calling cards.
part of Vietnam, the country’s largest island was renowned for its
natural beauty as early as the French colonial era, but has only Clearly determined to do things differently from the outset,
recently embarked on the process of being developed into a La Festa Phu Quoc is located in Sunset Town, which takes its
premium tourist destination. name from the hillside’s reputation as a spectacular sunset-
viewing spot. The development — an intriguing blend of real
The newest addition to Phu Quoc’s small but selective luxury estate, hospitality, and entertainment — has been constructed
hotel scene is La Festa Phu Quoc, Curio Collection by Hilton — to resemble a picturesque coastal Italian village, right down to
an Amalfi Coast-inspired resort replete with Italian charm and its Taormina-style townhouses, candy-coloured pastel buildings,
personality. Its official opening in February this year marked Greco-Roman statues, and an imitation Colosseum.
• 81 •

T R AV E L / P H U Q U O C

A 75m-tall red brick clock tower based on the bell tower of St Mark's
Basilica in Venice even serves as a landmark for the hotel. This can be easily
spotted during the 25-minute car journey from Phu Quoc International
Airport. There are also subtler ways in which La Festa Phu Quoc brings the
Mediterranean la dolce vita to its guests, such as the citrus-flavoured iced
slushies (a nod to the zesty zing of prized Amalfi lemons) presented as a
signature welcome ritual and the Italian-accented interiors of the property’s
(CLOCKWISE, FROM OPPOSITE PAGE) THE TROPICAL
197 rooms and suites. ISLAND OF PHU QUOC RECIEVES AROUND 2,370
SUNSHINE HOURS PER YEAR; THE BRICK CLOCK TOWER
Vibrant splashes of terracotta and cerulean are tempered with calm RISING FROM LA FESTA PHU QUOC, CURIO COLLECTION
BY HILTON WAS BASED ON ST. MARK’S CAMPANILE IN
white walls, voluptuously arched ceilings, and delicate terrazzo surfaces, VENICE; GUESTS AT THE HOTEL HAVE AN IMPRESSIVE
transforming all 13 room categories — from a King Classico Room to the 13 ROOM CATAGORIES TO CHOOSE FROM.
supersized, split-level King Dolce Vita Suite — into a stylish private haven
that overlooks the ocean. Securing a room with a Juliet- or loggia-style
balcony is an ideal way to marvel at the island’s breathtaking sunsets, which
frequently span a full technicolour display of blazing yellow, royal blue,
violet, and rose pink.

While the resort will appeal to travellers who have neither the time nor
the patience to make the long journey over to Europe (along with those
drawn in by the unusual prospect of exploring a corner of Italy within the
perimeter of Southeast Asia), Vietnamese-focused hospitality experiences
play as equally important a role at La Festa Phu Quoc as those that
espouse the continental glamour of a holiday along the Italian Riviera.
The aesthetic detailing of eforea spa, for instance, pays tribute to both
the pebble-lined beaches of Italy and the purple myrtle flowers scattered
across Phu Quoc’s hills. The spa’s Saigon Heritage massage employs the
use of aromatic Vietnamese herbal poultices.
• 82 •

T R AV E L / P H U Q U O C

Authentic dining
The all-day dining venue The Merchant also
bridges the geographical gap between Italy and
Vietnam by serving dishes from both culinary
cultures. For international guests who rarely
venture beyond national favourites like ph鄙
bò (beef noodles), it’s a prime opportunity to
sample some of the country’s region-specific
cuisine, infused with fresh northern herbs or the
assertive spice levels of central Vietnam. (For
the record, La Festa Phu Quoc’s Executive Chef,
Brett Muller, is still immensely proud of their
ph鄙. It remains a staple during The Merchant’s
breakfast service, and he considers it to be on
par with what’s offered at local ph鄙 stalls.)

Local produce from around the island is


creatively channelled into The Merchant’s menu,
with freshly caught baby squid (a famous Phu
Quoc delicacy), clams, snails, and sea urchins
gracing seafood buffets. Hill’s chickens —
cageless poultry that are allowed to roam freely
along the slopes — are steamed and served
with honey and lime leaf, while locally grown
peppercorns are stir-fried with beef and garlic.
At breakfast, sweet-toothed guests are bound
to be delighted by honeycombs sourced from
an apiary that’s a mere 15-minute drive from
the hotel. Your day is complete with a decadent
frozen yoghurt and ice cream station flavoured
with native fruits like mango and lychee.

La Festa Phu Quoc’s joy-filled, Italian-themed


narrative truly comes alive at the hotel’s
Mediterranean restaurant, Mare, which goes
the extra mile to create authentic Italian dishes:
carbonara is prepared the traditional way with
silken egg yolk and guanciale, then tossed
within a wheel of pecorino romano by the
Sardinian head chef. An old-school tiramisu
is similarly assembled à la minute in front of
diners, then finished off with an industrial-
strength espresso shot. In addition, it takes
the form of a high tea set laden with crostini at
the palazzo-inspired lobby bar Il Salone or an
Aperol Spritz-fuelled dinner at the top of the
Campanile clock tower.

(FROM TOP) DINING OPTIONS AT LA FESTA PHU QUOC


COVER CLASSIC MEDITERRANEAN FARE AND REGIONAL
VIETNAMESE FAVOURITES; SWEET CRAVINGS ARE EASILY
SATED AT THE IL SALONE LOBBY BAR, ALONG WITH
REQUESTS FOR INDUSTRIAL-STRENGTH COFFEE.
• 83 •

T R AV E L / P H U Q U O C

Beyond the hotel artists, which means that evenings in Sunset Town are always
Guests at La Festa Phu Quoc won’t have to venture guaranteed to be lively.
far from the property in search of activities or
amusement. Inquisitive travellers who fancy a day An extravagant seven-minute firework display signals the conclusion
trip beyond Sunset Town might enjoy a visit to one of the show, but for guests who’ve decided to embrace La Festa Phu
of the island’s burgeoning pearl farms or a family-run Quoc’s ethos of celebrating the joy of life, that may well mean that the
production facility that makes sweet ruou sim (rose party’s only just getting started.
myrtle) wine, which is said to be an excellent local
digestif. Those with a head for heights can take the
Hon Thom Cable Car — which travels a distance of
(FROM TOP) THE LIGHT-FILLED LOBBY OF LA FESTA PHU QUOC TAKES INSPIRATION
almost eight km and holds a Guinness World Record FROM THE CERAMIC WORKSHOPS OF ITALY; BETWEEN 24TH DECEMBER TO 1ST
as the world’s longest three-wire cable car — to the JANUARY EVERY YEAR, THE SUN SETS PRECISELY BETWEEN THE TWO ENDS OF
islet of Hon Thom, giving passengers a dazzling KISS BRIDGE, MAKING IT PERFECT FOR INSTAGRAM-CONSCIOUS COUPLES.

bird’s eye view of the turquoise seas and verdant


jungle-lined shores below.

As the sunset hour approaches, Kiss Bridge —


a symbol of love and harmony that stretches
out into the ocean in front of La Festa Phu
Quoc — is the photography spot of choice for
many Instagram-conscious couples. After that,
take a leisurely stroll through Vui-Fest Bazaar, a
seaside night market that sells street food and
handcrafted souvenirs. Regular performances of
the ‘Kiss of the Sea’ — a phantasmagorical drama
performed in a sea-based theatre next to the
hotel - employ laser projections, pyrotechnics,
water cannons, and a cast of 60 performing
• 84 •

L A S T CO U R S E / C H R I S T M A S T R E ATS

Savour the season


G
ather your friends for a joyous celebration at Pan assorted crêpes. The festive afternoon tea is available now until
Pacific Singapore’s Pacific Emporium – one of the best 1 January 2025.
spots, we think, to indulge in a festive afternoon tea.
If you’re looking for edible gifts for your loved ones, check
Munch on beautifully plated savoury creations such as hickory out Pacific Emporium’s festive hampers. Perfect for meat
smoked pulled pork slider, Scottish salmon pumpernickel, lovers is the Delicatessen Deluxe Hamper, brimming with
and duck rillettes roll. And round off with festive sweet treats, homemade charcuterie, hams, and sausages, including
including Sicilian pistachio choux puffs with lemon gel, Christmas citron thyme bratwurst, chicken rocket parmesan
peppermint milk chocolate tart, and more. sausage, Mediterranean salami sticks, honey ham, and more.
For the ultimate decadence, opt for the Pacific Festive Hamper,
On weekdays, guests are invited to select a main course, such which includes a bottle of Taittinger Brut Réserve Champagne,
as stuffed lamb saddle with winter vegetables to complement truffle honey, Christmas nougats, minced fruit pie, orange
the afternoon tea. On weekends, five live stations serve dishes à confit stollen, gingerbread cookies, panettone classico, and
la minute. Think: festive salmon Wellington, traditional roasted assortment of Christmas homemade pralines. Festive sweets
turkey breast, Penang prawn noodle soup, Singapore laksa, and and hampers are available until Boxing Day.
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