XR650R Clutch Mods https://web.archive.org/web/20150420051232/http://www.xr650r.

us/clutch/

The Wayback Machine - https://web.archive.org/web/20150420051232/http://www.xr650r.us:80/clutch/

Chances are, if you've made it to this page, you looking for answers for one or more of three
following common BRP clutch related questions.

1. What about the clutch bushing?

2. What about adding the extra clutch plate?
3. What about my judder spring?

The BRP, overall, has a pretty bulletproof clutch layout. I've totally abused mine and it has performed
above and beyond my expectations. BUT, some have not had the same results.

Question #1 is the most common. The '00 through '01 bikes, and
possibly even the new ones, come with the first of two clutch bushing
designs. This original bushing (22116-MBN-670) has a large
occurrence of seizing up due to lack of lubrication. The updated
bushing (22116-MBN-671) has a couple of extra holes, plus an added
gallery on it's inner face. The differences can be seen, if you look
carefully, in the picture at right. Notice the gallery machined in the
middle.

Not all bikes see this failure. I have a gazillion off road miles on mine and only swapped it out to have
pictures for this page. The bushing is most prone to fail when in gear and stopped with the clutch
disengaged, such as at a stop light or abusing it while stuck in a mudhole. It makes sense, as this is the
only time the bushing is actually in use. At all other times the inner and outer shafts are both spinning
at the same rpm. Symptoms of a toasted bushing are the same as though you have broken a cable.

It's a cheap part at around 12 bucks U.S., and is a very easy fix if replaced BEFORE it fails. If the
bushing fails, chances are that you will be replacing a shaft and the clutch basket, so if you don't feel
lucky, do it now.

Question #2 is more of a performance and durability add on. The first mention that I know of was
from the gurus at Summers Racing. They have a long explanation, so check it out. Here's my short
one. The oem clutch pack wears to a overall thickness that is
less than what the clutch basket allows for. The remarkably easy fix is
to simply to add another metal plate (22321-KA4-710).

Again, I added this plate only for the pictures in this page, and to be
able to talk you guys through it. My clutch had 3 seasons of strictly
woods abuse on it and I MAY have been feeling a bit of slip. I believe
that I got a more positive bite from the mod, which under the
circumstances, makes perfect sense.

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Now for question #3. Several of the groupees have removed their judder springs from the clutch pack,
replacing it with another fiber plate. The reason for doing so is to prolong clutch life (I don't believe it
would make a measurable difference)and give a more positive engagement (Maybe). I have not done
this mod, and have no intentions of doing so. The judder spring performs the same duties in our BRP
as it does in a car. It is a spring that allows for smoother actuation of the clutch, performing it's duties
only when the friction producing components of the clutch begin to engage.

Of those who have admitted on the group to removing the judder, I'd be willing to bet that 50% of
them reported either a grabby clutch, an obnoxious squeak on engagement, or both. I'll leave the
decision to do this one up to you.

Ok, there's the "why?", and if you're still awake, we'll get to the "how".

The Haymaker. The "How"

These mods are all pretty easy. The judder and extra disc mods need nothing more than 8 and 10mm
sockets, while the bushing replacement takes only a bit more. If you are replacing the bushing, order at
the same time the large locking nut that holds the clutch center. It is P/N 90236-HA0-000 and is an
18mm nut with a flange around it that is staked in place. You may also want a new oring gasket, P/N
11352-MBN-671, for the clutch cover. I've found that it can swell in length and be a pain to reinstall. In a
pinch you can cut the excess from the ring at it's highest point, and use a dab of RTV to seal it.

Plan on 1 steel plate (22321-KA4-710) for the adding of a disc, and

another fiber (22201-MW3-960) for the judder removal.

The first step, as with any of the projects I have here, is to make sure
you have a copy of the service manual. I've said it before, I'll say it
again, this is the bible for your bike! Take a peek in the navbar at left
and you'll find a link for a pdf copy. It's only there until I get caught
for copyright violation, so download it soon.

One of the easiest things here is what you DON'T have to do. Just clean the area, put the bike on it's
kickstand, and stuff a rag under the side cover to catch any oil as shown in the picture above. This trick
also works, if you're a neat freak like me, for filter changes.

After you've cleaned up any leftover road kill and pulled the cover, remove the four bolts that hold the
clutch pressure plate in place. It'll be the bolt, washer, and a spring, in that order.

After you've removed the four bolts, pull out the pressure plate and
clutch pack. Also remove the bearing and the small piece it rides on.
Now is a good time to check the plates for wear, warping, and
overheating. If the clutch has been overheated, the steel plates will be
discolored. A piece of glass can be used to check for warping. The
service limits are listed below. Plate "A" is the 6 like fiber discs, plate
"B" is the lone fiber disc that the judder spring (the two skinny rings
near the bottom, one of which is concave)mates with, and then the 6
steel discs.

• Plate "A" 3.00mm (.118in)

• Plate "B" 2.69mm (.106in)
• Steel (checking for warpage) 0.30mm (0.012in)

Chances are, as long as they aren't warped or blued, the steel discs will be fine. The plate next to the
judder will have a groove worn in it.

If all you are intending to do is add the plate or remove the judder, you can skip this next section on
replacing the bushing. As I said before, it's straightforward, easy, and cheap insurance against bushing
seizure.

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Start the bushing swap by removing the 18mm nut at right. Use a
small punch or Dremel to remove the portion that is pushed into the
keyway. Be sure not to let any metal debris or grindings fall into the
gearbox. Stuffing shop towels around the basket will help keep
contaminates out.

The simplest way to remove the nut is with an impact gun. Next is to
find a partner to hold in the rear brake with the bike in 1st gear.
Another method is to purchase or make a basket holder, which is
usually a large pair of ViseGrips

with two fingers that grab the grooves in the clutch hub. If you were to remove the entire sidecover, you
could put a penny in the teeth of the clutch gear, locking it in place. Don't be tempted to stick a large
screwdriver into the basket and the four threaded lugs that held the pressure plate. You will break them!

Remove the nut, cone washer, and flat washer. The hub will now pull out of the way. The bushing will
either be exposed on the mainshaft or still within the hub. Hopefully upon removal, you'll see no signs of
burring or galling of any of the wear surfaces. Slight galling can be removed with emery cloth. For some
reason I do not have any pictures of this stage, but it's simple even without them.

A bit of play in the fit between the large drive gear and basket seems to be normal.

Install the new bushing on the shaft after coating it with a good slime of motor oil or assembly lube.
This is important! We don't want to cook the new bushing before we ever use it! Reinstall the basket and
hub, thrust washer, and lock washer. Make sure that the "OUT SIDE" marked on the lock washer is just
what it says, facing out. Assure everything is seated and throw the NEW locknut on. Use whatever trick
you used to remove it and torque her down to 87lb-ft (118n-m). Stake the nut into the keyway with the
punch. The hard part is done!

After everything is all set, coat the new steel disc with oil and install it into the basket. If all you are
doing is adding the plate, go ahead and throw the rest of the clutchpack in. If you are also removing the
judder, leave it out, along with it's matching seat and the skinny fiber plate. replace it with a new "A"
(22201-MW3-960) plate. Be sure that all the plates have a good coating of oil on them.
As shown in the picture at right, the
last fiber plate installed needs to be
offset from the others and installed in
the the shallow slots at the top of the
basket fingers. Reinstall the throwout
bearing and spacer. Check the other
side of the bike to make sure that the
clutch actuator is in the neutral
position to assure the throwout rod is
seated properly.

Finish up the clutch work by installing the springs and bolts. Tighten the bolts to a mere 9lb-ft (12n-m)
in a criss-cross pattern, using 2 to 3 steps before arriving at the final torque. Be careful not to over torque
these, as the soft basket will break easily. The springs will hold tension and keep them from loosening.

Reinstall the clutch cover, being carefull to assure that the o-ring stays in it's groove. A few dabs of
grease will help it stick in place. Never-Sieze the cover bolts and tighten them down to 9lb-ft (12n-m),
again using a criss-cross pattern.

Screw in the cable adjustment on the clutch perch as far as it will go, then adjust free play at the
adjustment down on the cases. Do the fine tuning at the perch.

Clean things up with a bit of contact cleaner and you're done! Thanks to Tommy Deem for his help with
the info in this page.

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