A project on

“PRACTICE SCHOOL”
On the topic
“COSMECEUTICALS”
Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of
“BACHELOR OF PHARMACY”
By

AYUSH SINGH
B.Pharm 4th year
2102610500015
Under the supervision of
MR.PAWAN KUMAR SINGH

(Assistant Professor)
SHAKTI COLLEGE OF PHARMACY , BALRAMPUR (U.P.)
College code :-261

To
DR.APJ ABDUL KALAM TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY , LUCKNOW (U.P.)
SESSION:-2024-25
 CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that : AYUSH SINGH has successfully completed the

project of “PRACTICE SCHOOL” on the topic “COSMECEUTICALS”
under the supervision of :-MR.PAWAN KUMAR SINGH (Assistant
Professor).
We are satisfied with their initiative and efforts for the completion of
the project as the part of the curriculam of the “BACHELOR OF
PHARMACY”.

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR PRINCIPAL

MR.PAWAN KUMAR SINGH DR.RAJIB KUMAR SINGH

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 AKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all these individuals for

mentoring and supporting me in completing this project.
I would like to thanks :- MR.PAWAN KUMAR SINGH (Assistant
Professor) for providing me with invaluable insights and direction.
I would like like to thanks :- DR.RAJIB KUMAR SINGH (Principal) and
other teaching staff like :- MR.J.S.YADAV , MR.SHIVAM H.
CHATURVEDI and MR.LOKESH SAINI for making an environment of
learning and creativity within our College.
To my Parents , their constant encouragement , patience and
understanding have been the pillars of my success.
I am grateful to my friends who contributed ideas and perspectives
that enriched the project.
Thanks to everyone for shaping this project and enhancing my learning
experience.

AYUSH SINGH
B.Pharm 4th year
2102610500015

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 DECLARATION

I hereby declare that the project entitled :-“PRACTICE SCHOOL” on the

topic “COSMECEUTICALS” is an outcome of my own efforts under the
supervision of :-MR.PAWAN KUMAR SINGH (Project Guide).
The project is submitted to the DR.APJ ABDUL KALAM TECHNICAL
UNIVERSITY , LUCKNOW (U.P.) for the partial fulfillment of the
requirements for the degree of “BACHELOR OF PHARMACY”.
I also declare that this project report has not been previously
submitted to any other purpose.

AYUSH SINGH
B.Pharm 4th year
2102610500015

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 INDEX

SR.NO. PARTICULARS PAGE.

NO.
1. CERTIFICATE 1
2. AKNOWLEDGEMENT 2
3. DECLARATION 3
4. ABSTRACT 5
5. INTRODUCTION 6
6. SKIN CARE COSMECEUTICALS 7
7. COLOUR COSMECEUTICALS 17
8. CURRENT COSMECEUTICALS 18
COMPOUNDS
9. CONCLUSION 20
10. REFERENCES 21

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ABSTRACT

Cosmeceuticals, which is the fastest growing segment of the natural

personal care industry. These cosmeceuticals, serving as a bridge
between personal care products and pharmaceuticals, have been
developed specifically for their medicinal and cosmetic benefits.
Cosmeceuticals (or alternatively, cosmeceuticals) are topical cosmetic
pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the beauty through
ingredients that provide additional health-related function or benefit.
The cosmeceutical concept is used by many skin-care companies;
especially those endorsed by dermatologists, to give the impression
that the products contain more effective or more biologically active
ingredients than just ordinary cosmetics. Hence, anyone can slap the
label with tall claims to promote these products saying the products
are more beneficial than the existing conventional regulated cosmetic
products.

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INTRODUCTION

The Egyptians were the first to recognize the health properties of

cosmetics. Up to the 19th century, there was no clear distinction
between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals; the separation occurred
when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was developed.
Cosmeceuticals rapidly expanded in the 1980s due to hydroxy acids
(natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants against wrinkles. Raymond Reed,
founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic Chemists,
coined the term ‘Cosmeceutical’ in 1961. In 1971, Albert K lingman
reactivated interest in cosmeceuticals by developing a formula to
improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin, using
retinoic acid.
They are applied topically as cosmetics, butcontain ingredients that
influence the skin’s biological function . Cosmeceuticals improve
appearance, but they do so by delivering nutrients necessary for
healthy skin. Desirable features of cosmeceutical agents are efficacy,
safety, formulation stability, novelty, and patent protection,
metabolism within skin and inexpensive manufacture .
Even though some products claim to be unique botanical extracts or
containing some rare ingredients with magic antiaging properties,
most of the cosmeceutical formulations use fundamental ingredients
such as peptides, retinol, coenzyme Q- 10, ceramides, alpha lipoic acid,
alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, aloevera, panthenol, kinetin
and vitamins A, C, E.

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SKIN CARE COSMECEUTICALS
Cosmetics and skin care products are the part of everyday grooming.
Protecting and preserving the skin is essential to good health. Our skin,
the largest organ in the body, separates, and protects the internal
environment from the external one. UV radiations from sunlight
penetrate the skin and accelerated damage due to free radicals, which
includes inflammation, wrinkling and hyper pigmentation. Due to
prolonged exposure to UV radiation the collagen and elastin fibres of
the skin are broken down by enzymes collaginase and elastate and
texture of skin deteriorates. Collagen and elastin are responsible for
maintaining the elasticity and integrity of the skin. Several plant
extracts and anti oxidants obtained from natural sources are able to
prevent the aging and also improving the appearance of the skin.
Cosmeceuticals being cosmetic products having medicinal or drug-like
benefits are able to affect the biological functioning of skin owing to
type of functional ingredients they contain. There are skin-care
products that go beyond coloring and adorning the skin. These
products improve the functioning/texture of the skin by encouraging
collagen growth by combating harmful effects of free radicals, thus
maintaining keratin structure in good condition and making the skin
healthier.
The most important botanicals pertaining to dermatologic uses, such
as cosmeceuticals, include teas, soy, pomegranate, date, grape seed,
Pycnogenol, horse chestnut, German chamomile, curcumin, comfrey,
allantoin, and aloe; only green and black tea, soy, pomegranate, and
date have been studied to the extent that clinical trials for the
treatment of parameters of extrinsic aging have been published.
Potential cosmeceutical agents in this category include green tea,
grape seed extract, vitamin E, and beta-carotene.

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The following ingredients are most commonly used cosmeceuticals,
some of them listed below:-
Bowsellic acids

It is obtained from Boswellia serrata. The main function is to inhibit

the enzymes responsible for inflammation (5 - lipoxygenase) and
damage of the skin.

Tetrahydrocurcuminoids

It is obtained form white (colour free) curcuminoids ofturmeric

(curcuma longa) carnosic acid, cosmarinic acid,ursolic acid from
rosemary extract Rosemarimus officinalis as anti oxidants are the
other compounds which are used to facilitate the tissue damage and
restoring the healthy status of skin.

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Retinoids

A great amount of research has concentrated on its use as an antiaging

compound as well as its use for other cutaneous disorders. Vitamin A
and its derivative shave 2 main functions: they act as antioxidants, and
they activate specific genes and proteins. Structural changes
underlying the cosmetic benefits include correction of epidermal
atrophy, deposition of new collagen, generation of new vessels, and
enhancement of mitogenesis. This enhanced mitogenesis promotes
the shedding of melanin-laden keratinocytes, resulting in bleaching
and subsequent depigmentation. The ability of topical tretinoin to
improve the appearance of aged and photo-damaged skin by reducing
wrinkles, decreasing laxity, bleaching hyperpigmented spots, and
bringing about a smoother surface have been well studied and
documented.

Hydroxy acids

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Hydroxy acids are organic carboxylic acids classified into alpha hydroxy
acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) according to their
molecular structure. Many are derived from natural sources and are
often referred to as fruit acids.
The different AHAs include the following: glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric
acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid. AHAs have been
shown to decrease the signs of aging. The skin appears smoother and
more uniform.
BHAs are aromatic compounds. Salicylic acid is the reference BHA; it
has dermolytic properties and helps in various xerotic and ichthyotic
disorders. Other BHAs include 2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid, also
known as beta-lipohydroxy acid (B-LHA), and tropic acid.
Studies show that AHAs may increase sensitivity to UVradiation and
that sunscreen application may be advisable when these products are
used.

Antioxidants
In addition to these external insults like UV radiation, drugs, air
pollutants, and heat and/or cold , the skin also has to cope with
endogenous mitogens, most importantly reactive oxygen species
(ROS) and other free radicals. These species are continuously
produced during physiological cellular metabolism.
To counteract the harmful effects of ROS, the skin is equipped with an
antioxidant system to maintain equilibrium between the pro-oxidants,
or damaging agents, and the antioxidants, or protective agents; these
antioxidants intervene atdifferent levels in the protective process.

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Here some of the antioxidants are listed below,
Vitamin C

Vitamin C is necessary for the hydroxylation of procollagen, proline,

and lysine. Vitamin C improves and normalizes the changes caused by
photodamage. Vitamin C has been used effectively to stimulate
collagen repair, thus diminishing some of the effects of photoaging on
skin. However, vitamin C is easily degraded by heat and light, which
along with its high acidity, presents certain challenges for use in a
multipurpose skin care formulation. A recently introduced synthetic
collagen fraction offers greater stability and compatibility, along with
improved efficacy.
Vitamin E

Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) is the major lipophilic antioxidant in

plasma, membranes, and tissues. The term vitamin E collectively refers
to 8 naturally occurring molecules (4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols),
all of which exhibit vitamin E activity. Its major role is generally
considered to be the arrest of chain propagation in lipid peroxidation
by scavenging lipid peroxyl radicals, hence protecting the cell

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membrane from destruction. Vitamin E topically applied before UV
irradiation has been shown to reduce erythema, edema, sunburn cells,
immunosuppression caused by sunlight, and DNA adduct formation.

Panthenol
Panthenol, the alcohol analog of vitamin B-5, is a water-soluble
humectant commonly found in various commercial skin creams,
lipsticks, lotions, and hair preparations. It is stable in the presence of
oxygen and light but unstable in the presence of acids, bases, and high
temperatures. Panthenol is converted in the skin to pantothenic acid,
which is an important component on coenzyme A essential for normal
cellular metabolism.

Lipoic acid
Lipoic acid is a unique free radical protector. It is fat and water soluble.
Once lipoic acid crosses the cell membrane, it is broken down into
dihydrofolic acid, which is also an antioxidant. Alpha lipoic acid also
recycles other key antioxidants, such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and
glutathione.

Niacinamide

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Niacinamide is stable in the presence of oxygen, acid, and high
temperatures, and it is inexpensive to formulate. Most of its known
effects are the result of increased epidermal turnover and exfoliation.
Topical kinetin and niacinamide have been found to exert asynergistic
antiaging cutaneous effect in people in theRepublic of China.

Dimethylaminoethanol
Topical preparations containing dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) have
been touted for their ability to improve skin firmness and to lift sagging
skin. DMAE is able to diminish the cross-linking of proteins that occurs
during aging, probably acting as a free-radical scavenger.

Spin traps
Free radical spin traps are species that react with reactive free radicals
to produce fairly stable, unreactive free radicals, thus blocking the free
radicals from damaging cellular components.
· DMPO (5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline-N -oxide)
· DEPMPO (5-diethoxyphosphoryl-5-methyl-1-pyrroline-N-oxide)
· TEMPONE-H (1-hydroxy-2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-4- oxo-piperidine)
Melatonin
Melatonin, a hormone secreted by the pineal gland. This beneficial
action of melatonin has been explained in terms of its ability to
scavenge free radicals and to augment the activities of antioxidant
enzymes. It has been shown to suppress UV radiation–induced
erythema.
Catalase
Catalase, an enzyme present in almost all cells of the human body,
catalyzes the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide to water and
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oxygen. High amounts of this enzyme in the skin can impart
antioxidative activity.
Glutathione
Glutathione is a tripeptide of glutamic acid, cysteine, and glycine. It is
found in all active animal tissue. It is fundamental as an antioxidant,
and significantly decreased amounts of glutathione are found after UV
exposures.
Superoxide dismutase
Superoxide dismutase (SOD) is an enzyme that destroys superoxide (a
highly ROS). SOD is a large molecule and has difficulty penetrating
deep into the skin. In theory, once in the lower epidermis and dermis,
SOD should decrease UV erythema and damage and act as an excellent
antioxidant.
Glucopyranosides
Resveratrol and polydatins are glucopyranosides found in many fruits
and vegetables, the highest concentrations being found in grape skins,
which synthesize these compounds in response to exposure to UV-A
and UV-B and fungal pathogens.
Polyphenols
Polyphenolic compounds (eg, catechins, flavonols, thioflavins,
thearubigins), also known as epicatechins, are antioxidant in nature.
These compounds, tested against human keratinocyte cells stressed by
UV-B irradiation, showed high antioxidative properties.
Cysteine
Several recent studies have shown that cysteine derivatives can
protect against the negative effects of UV exposure. In particular, N-
acetylcysteine (NAC) is shown to be an effective protector against UV-
B–induced immunosuppression.

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Allantoin
Allantoin promotes cell proliferation, aiding in the healing process.
Allantoin has long been known to enhance the effectiveness and
desirability of cosmetic creams and lotions by its action as a skin
protectant. Allantoin has been incorporated into shampoos, lipsticks,
shaving creams, suntanning products, bath foams, hair gels, baby
powders, and various aerosol preparations. Allantoin has been called
a cell proliferent, an epithelization stimulant, and a chemical debrider.
It is said to clean away necrotic tissue, hastening the growth of new
healthy tissue.

Furfuryladenine
Furfuryl adenine (Kinerase) is a natural plant growth factor that retards
the aging process in plants. Cut leaves dipped in a solution that
contains furfuryladenine remain green, while untreated leaves turn
brown. It is marketed as the natural evolution of antiaging treatment
with similar effects in vitro on human skin cells as that in plants,
helping to slow and reverse alterations that naturally occur in the cell-
aging process.

Carnosine
Carnosine (beta-alanyl-L-histidine) is a physiological dipeptide that can
rejuvenate senescent cultured human fibroblasts. Carnosine has been
shown to contain antioxidant, free radical- and metal ion– scavenging
activities.

Depigmenting Agent
Hyperpigmentation is the result of an increased amount of melanin in
the epidermis, the dermis, or both This pigmentary change can be

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divided into 2 pathophysiologic processes: melanocytosis (increased
number of melanocytes) and melanosis (increased amount of
melanin). Depigmenting agents work best when melanosis or
melanocytosis is restricted to the epidermis. Depigmenting agents can
be divided into several groups:-

Phenolic compounds include the following:

· Hydroquinone
· Monobenzylether of hydroquinone
· 4-Methoxyphenol
· 4-Isopropylcatechol
· 4-Hydroxyanisol
· N -acetyl-4-S-cysteaminylphenol
Nonphenolic compounds include the following:
· Corticosteroids
· Tretinoin
· Azelaic acid
· N -acetylcystein
· L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate
· Kojic acid
Combination formulas include the following:
· Kligman's formula
· Pathak's formula

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COLOUR COSMECEUTICALS
Colour is a key property of a product to determine the attractiveness
for consumers and, therefore, its successful marketing. Colouring
agents can be added to cosmetics in order to colour the product itself
or to colour a part of the body (skin, hair, nails or eyelashes).
In this latter case, the so-called colour cosmetic is a sector with a
strong growth in the industry of cosmetics, given the increasing
concern with body image motivated by the popularity of social media.
According to their use, cosmetics can be classified as leave-on, those
that are in prolonged contact with the skin such as lipstick, cream or
body lotion, and rinse-off, those that are removed after application
such as shampoo, gel or soap.
Colorants can be classified according to their structure, source, colour,
solubility and application method .
Two main categories are established according to solubility: dyes and
pigments. Dyes are synthetic organic compounds that are hydro or oil-
soluble and they can be found in cosmetics such as skin care products
or toiletries whereas pigments are insoluble, they remain in
particulate form, and they are mainly employed in toothpastes or
decorative make-up .
Among the thousands of substances employed as colouring agents,
synthetic dyes are preferred over natural (obtained from plants,
animals and minerals) given their lower production costs and long-
lasting properties such as brightness or greater stability towards light,
heat or pH extreme that may occur during the manufacturing process.

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CURRENT COSMECEUTICALS COMPOUNDS AVAILABLE:-

Bo-Peptide Eye Cream–

An HCG diet friendly mixture of various peptides and

glycosaminoglycans along with the Lipo Light light reflecting
technology.

Anti-Aging Eye Cream–

Powerful mixture of the anti-oxidants melatonin and Idebenone in

Glycine Soya Protein solution, designed to restore youthful texture to
skin.

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Collagen Booster Lotion–

HCG diet friendly formula to improve and restore skin matrix contains
Palmitoyl penta peptide, glycine soya protein, kinetin and glycos
aminoglycans.

Eye Wrinkle Gel–

HCG diet friendly formula designed to provide maximum moisture to

support skin matrix contains Sodium Hyaluronate, DMAE, Acetyl D
Glucosamine and glycine soya protein. Ask pharmacists to help you
decide which formulas are best for your skin care needs.

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 CONCLUSION
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products that contain biologically active
ingredients, which provide a therapeutic benefit to the skin. These
products have revolutionized the skincare industry, offering
consumers a wide range of options for addressing various skin
concerns.
In 2006, the cosmeceutical market rose to nearly $8.2 billion in profits
in the USA alone. The development, use, and marketing of these
products will continue to rise as the aging population strives to find
non-invasive alternatives to anti-aging regimens. Well designed,
randomized, placebo-controlled trials and basic science research is
lacking. Industry is leading the research behind much of the science
we now know to influence the development of cosmeceuticals. As the
market grows, so should our understanding of the products, as it is our
patients who use these products leaders of the field of dermatology,
we need to understand the science of cosmeceuticals in order to
provide our patients with optimal education and skin care guidance.

Key Takeaways:
1. Cosmeceuticals combine cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
2. They contain active ingredients that provide therapeutic benefits.
3. Popular cosmeceuticals include retinoids, peptides, and
antioxidants.

Benefits:
1. Improved skin texture and appearance.
2. Reduced fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Enhanced skin hydration.
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 REFERENCES
1. Dureja, H., Kaushik, D., Gupta, M., Kumar, V. and Lather, V.
cosmeceuticals: An emerging concept, Indian J. Pharmacol, 1995, 37,
155–159.
2. Dooley TP, Hori W, Drug discovery approaches for developing
cosmeceuticals: advanced skin care and cosmetic products.
Southborough: IBC Library Series; 1997.
3. cosmeceuticals.net
4. Majeed, M. et al. Novel natural approaches to anti-aging skin care.
Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, 2005.
5. Majeed, M. et al. Fighting acne and more Effective natural
approaches to skin care. Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture
Worldwide 2004 edition, 215-219.
6. Trüeb RM. The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals,
Dermatology 2001; 202, 275-82.
7. 16. Rona C, Vailati F, Berardesca E (2004). The cosmetic treatment
of wrinkles. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 3(1): 26-34.
8. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/Ancient-history-cosmetics.
9. Barbalova, I. 2011. “Global Beauty and Personal Care: The Year in
Review and Winning Strategies for The Future” (online).Retrieved from
http://www.incosmetics.com/RXUK/RXUK InCosmetics /documents/
IC11EuromonitorIntGlobalBeautyAndPersonalCare (Accessed 15 June
2014).
10. www.pharaminfo.net.
11. Thornfeldt C. Cosmeceuticals containing herbs: fact, fiction, and
future. Dermatol Surg. Jul 2005; 31: 873-80.

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