© 2022 IJNRD | Volume 7, Issue 4 April 2022 | ISSN: 2456-4184 | IJNRD.

ORG

Formulation and Standardization of Herbal Lotion:

A Review
Nikita M. Rathi, Shital V. Sirsat, Surekha S. Tayade, Abhijit S. Khot; Akshay C. Deshmukh

nmrathi43@gmail.com; vijshi2006@gmail.com; surekhatayade14@gmail.com; abhijitkhot718@gmail.com;

akshaydeshmukh691@gmail.com

Abstract
The herbal cosmetics are those when natural herbs and their products used for their aromatic value in cosmetic
preparation among consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for natural products and natural extracts
in cosmetics preparations.
Lotions are liquid preparations meant for external application without friction. They are applied directly to skin
with the help of some absorbent material, such as, cotton wool or gauze soaked in it. Formulation of aloe vera
lotion, formulation of menthol lotion and aloe vera lotion with arrow root powder is prepared using different
composition.
These formulations were evaluated with different evaluation parameters like Homogeneity, Appearance, After
feel, Acid Value, pH measurement, Irritancy test, Viscosity, Accelarated stability testing, Subjective Properties,
Spreadability, Type of emulsion test, Sensitivity Test, Washability Test, statistical analysis, In vitro permeation
studies, Test for thermal stability, Determination of total fatty matter, Determination of water content, Patch test.
The objective of this review is to compile the information of different herbal formulations of lotion and its
evaluation. Herbal lotion formulations studied by many researchers and this information can be used by many
researchers for novel herbal cosmetic formulations with new herbs.

Keywords: Herbal Cosmetic, Herbal Lotion, Aloe Vera, Menthol, Arrow Root Powder

Introduction

Herbal Cosmetics, here referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to
form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic advantages only,
shall be called as "Herbal Cosmetics". The herbal cosmetics are those when natural herbs and their products
used for their aromatic value in cosmetic preparation among consumers for herbal products triggered the
demand for natural products and natural extracts in cosmetics preparations. 1
Lotions are liquid preparations meant for external application without friction. They are applied directly to skin
with the help of some absorbent material, such as, cotton wool or gauze soaked in it. Lotions may be used for
local action as cooling, soothing or protective purposes.
Containers: Lotions should be dispensed coloured flutted bottles in order to distinguish them from preparation
meant for internal use.
Storage: Lotions should be stored in a well filled, well closed in an air tight container in cool place.2
Equipment:- Digital balance, pH meter ,measuring cylinder, glass bowl, spoon, Brooke field
viscometer.

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Formulation of Aloe Vera Lotion:
Composition

Sr. No. Ingredients Quantity

1 Aloe vera gel 150ml

2 Coconut oil 120ml
3 Rose water 240ml
4 Vitamin E 14 capsule
5 Glycerin 150ml
6 Essential oil 4 drops
7 Arrowroot powder 39 gm

Preparation before the formulation: - Clean and sanitize your work area and all you packaging materials. It
is suggested that you wear gloves, protective clothing and a hair net while preparing this recipe.

Method of formulation
Formulation method of gel:-
 Collect raw material (aloe leaves).
 Wash leaf and remove base and tip of the leaf.
 Leaf is cut into section (Filleting).
 Extract mucilage part of the leaves into mixing jar.
 Heat it and add agar agar into the mixing jar.
 Grinding/Homogenization of Unpasteurized Juice
 Add Vitamin E and Pasteurize the mixer cool the mixer of aloe leaf
 Package the produced gel and Store it.

Steps Used In Formulation of Gel

 Reception of raw materials- The Aloe vera leaves after harvesting were preferably transported to the
processing place. The leaves should be sound, undamaged, mold/rot free and matured (3-4 years) in
order to keep all the active ingredients in full concentration. Filleting operation- It was shown that the
aloe gel, once extracted from the leaf, had greater stability than the gel left in the leaf. In order to avoid
the decomposition of the biological activity, the filleting operation must be completed within 36 hrs. Of
harvesting the leaves.

 Grinding/homogenization- The major steps in this process include crushing or grinding. The aloe gel
fillets should be crushed and homogenized using a commercial high speed tissue crusher at room
temperature (25°C).And add agar agar into the mixture.

 Addition of vitamin E- The unpasteurized aloe gel juice was fortified with vitamin E to improve the
flavor of Aloe vera gel juice and to stabilize the juice. It is used for its antioxidant activity.

 Pasteurization- Treatment (at 85-95°C for 1-2 min) is an effective method to avoid the bad flavor and
the loss of biological activity of the Aloe vera gel. Flash cooling- After pasteurization, the juice is flash
cooled to 5°C or below within 10-15 sec. This is a crucial step to preserve biological activity of the Aloe
vera gel.

 Storage- Relative humidity and temperature are two most important environmental parameters that affect
product quality.

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 Formulation method of lotion:-
 Measure the quantity of above formulated gel. Weigh all other ingredient used in formulation.
 Take a large glass or plastic mixing bowl.
 Add measured out gel of the aloe vera into the mixing bowl.
 Then add other ingredients of the formulation one by one like coconut oil, rosewater, vitamin E, glycerin,
essential oil & arrowroot powder with measured quantity.
 Mix all the ingredient of the bowl in vigorously manner. Herbal lotion was prepared.3

Formulation of Menthol Lotion:

Composition:

Sr. No. Ingredients Quantity (%)

1 Menthol 0.2
2 Powdered Tragacanth 0.5
3 Alcohol 9.0
4 Glycerine 4.5
5 Water 85.8

Procedure:
1. The required amount of each ingredient should be weighed/measured accurately.
2. Take 0.2ml of menthol and mix in 9ml alcohol with simultaneously addition of 0.5gm of tragacanth.
3. Add measured amount of glycerine and make volume upto 100ml with water.
4. Mix the contents thoroughly until a smooth mixture results.4

Formulation of Aloe Vera Lotion:

Composition:

Sr. No. Ingredients Quantity

1 Bees wax 2gm
2 Shea Butter 2gm
3 Coconut Oil/Almond oil 2gm
4 Aloe Vera Gel (extract) 1gm
5 Mineral Oil/ Peppermint oil 10-12 drops
6 Perfume 1-2 drops

Procedure:
1. Take grated bees wax, add coconut oil and shea butter to it and keep on water bath for melting of all
ingredients in double boiler.
2. Take a blender pour a above melted ingredients
3. Refrigerate for 15 mins
4. Again blend and add aloe vera gel
5. Again blend and in last add peppermint oil
6. Blend again and keep the lotion in air tight container

Evaluation of herbal lotion:

1. Homogeneity
The formulation were tested for homogeneity by visual appearance and by touch.
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2. Appearance
The appearance of the lotion

3. After feel
Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amount of lotion was checked.

4. Acid Value
Take 10gm of substance dissolve in accurately weighed in 50ml mixture of equal volume of alcohol and solvent
ether. The flask was connected reflux condenser and slowly heated, until sample was dissolved completely. To
this 1ml of phenolphthalein added and titrated with 0.1N NaOH, until faintly pink colour appeares after shaking
for 30sec.
Acid Value=n x 5.61/w
n= number of ml of NaOH required
w= weight of substance

5. pH measurement
The pH meter was calibrated using standard buffer solution. About 0.5gm of clotion was weighed and dissolved
in 50ml of distilled water and its pH was measured using digital pH meter.

6. Irritancy test
Mark an area (1 sq. cm) on the left hand dorsal surface. The lotion was applied to the specified area and time
was noted. Irritancy, erythema, edema, was checked if any for regular intervals upto 24hrs and reported.

7. Viscosity
Viscosity of the formulation was determined was brookfield or ostwald viscometer at 100 RPM, using spindle
no. 7 at temp 25oC. The determinations were carried out in triplicate and the average of three reading was
recorded.

8. Accelarated stability testing

Accelarated stability testing of prepared lotion was conducted for 2 most stable formulations at room temp,
studied for 7 days. The formulations were placed at 40oC + 1oC for 20 days. Both formulations were kept at
room temp and elevated temp and observed on oth, 5th, 10th, 15th and 20th day for any change in color, phase
separation etc.5

9. Subjective Properties
Consistency, feel on application and irritation parameters are determined.
10. Spreadability
Two glass slides of standard dimensions (20 × 5cm) were selected. The formulation was over one of the slide.
The other slide placed on the top of the lotion such a that the formulation sandwiched between the two slides in
an area occupied by a distance of 7.5 cm, alongside 100 gm weight was placed uniformly to form a thin layer.
The weight was removed and the excess of lotion adhering to the slides was scrapped off. The two slides in a
position were fixed to stand (45° angle) without slightest disturbance and in such a way that only the lower slide
held firmly by the opposite fangs of the clamps allowing the upper slide to slip off freely by the force of weight
tied to it. 60 gm of weight was tied to the upper slide carefully. The time taken for the upper slide to travel the
distance of 5 cm and separate away from the lower slide under the direction of weight was noted. The experiment
repeated for 3 times and the mean taken for three such dimensions was calculated.The results were recorded.
The Spread ability is calculated by using formula:
S = M x L/T
Where,
S= Spread ability,
L= Length of glass slide,
M= Weight tied to the upper slide and
T= Time.

11. Type of emulsion test

Dye solubility and dilution test was conducted to determine the type of emulsion formed.

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12. Sensitivity Test

A portion of lotion was applied on the forearms of 6 volunteers and left for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes any
kind of irritation if occurred was noted.

13. Washability Test

A portion of lotion was applied over the skin of hand and allowed to flow under the force of flowing tap water
for 10 minutes. The time when the lotion completely removed was noted.6

14. In vitro permeation studies

In vitro permeation studies of TRA lotions across rabbit skin were carried out using two-chambered Franz-type
diffusion cells (manufactured “in house”) having a receptor phase of ~5 ml, 2 and a diffusional area of ~0.788
cm .Adult rabbit skin was used for permeation studies at 37 ± 0.5 C. Abdominal full thickness skin of male
White New Zealand rabbit (3 - 4 kg weight) was carefully excised after sacrificing the rabbit. Subcutaneous fats
and other extraneous tissues adhering to the dermis were completely removed and trimmed with forceps and
scissor. The skin was cleaned with phosphate buffered saline (PBS) at pH 7.4 and stored in 500 ml normal saline
in a o refrigerator (18 – 20 C)
The skin was used within one week of excision. Sheets of the skin were cut to appropriate sizes 2 (~ 1 cm in
diameter) and soaked overnight in the receptor solution (PBS). The membrane was then placed between the two
compartments of the diffusion cells with epidermis side facing the donor compartment while the dermal side
was bathed with PBS at pH 7.4 (receptor fluid). The donor compartment was filled with PBS at pH 7.4 ± 0.1.
This pH is close to that of human skin. The receptor fluid was stirred with a magnetic stirring bar at 500 rpm,
keeping the temperature at 37 ± o 0.5 C by means of a water jacket. Care was exercised to remove any bubbles
between the underside of the skin and the solution in the receiver compartment. Vacuum grease was used to
produce a leak-proof seal between the membrane and the two compartments of the diffusion cell, i.e., donor and
receptor. Ultrasonic bath. To avoid evaporation from the compartments, the cell arm and donor compartment
were covered with a parafilm. Constant mixing of the receptor phase was obtained with a magnetic stirrer placed
in the receptor compartment. The diffusion cells were placed on a stirring-bed immersed in a water o bath at 37
± 0.05 C, to maintain the temperature of membrane surface. After 24 hours, both chambers were cleared of PBS
and the receptor compartment was immediately refilled with pre- thermostated PBS, while the skin remained
intact. The donor compartment was charged with 1 ml of the lotion (test formulation). At time intervals of 5,
15, 30, 60, 90, 120, 180, 240, 360 and 480 min, 0.2 ml sample was drawn, using a micro-pipette, from receptor
solution followed by addition of same volume of pre-thermostated receptor solution to maintain sink conditions.
The samples were analyzed spectrophotometrically at 271 nm using UV/Vis spectrophotometer to obtain the
amount of TRA permeated through rabbit skin after diluting with 1.8 ml PBS. Since skin shows great sample-
to-sample permeability variations, each of these analyses was conducted in pentaplicate (n = 5). To construct a
calibration curve, 500 mg of TRA was dissolved in PBS (10 ml) in 100 ml volumetric flask and the final volume
made up to 100 ml by adding PBS to prepare stock solution. From this solution, dilutions of 10, 20, 30, 40, 50,
60, 70, and 80 μg/ml were prepared. The resultant dilutions were analyzed spectrophotometrically for UV
absorbance’ maximum UV absorbance of TRA was found at 271 nm. The linear equation of the constructed
calibration curve was y = 0.022x – 2 0.021 and correlation coefficient (R) of 0.998. Steady-state flux was
determined from the slope of the linear portion of the cumulative amount of permeation (Q) versus time (t) plot.
The input rate of TRA permeating across rabbit skin was determined as in Eq
Input rate = K p × C × A................
Where, K p is permeability coefficient,
C is donor amount (μg), i.e., amount of drug in the donor compartment and
A is the Franz cell area of 2 permeation (~0.788 cm).
Enhancement ratio (ER) was calculated by dividing the flux of the test formulation by the flux of control
formulation.

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15. Statistical analysis
The receptor and donor compartments were filled with PBS at pH 7.4 ± 0.1. To remove air bubbles and preclude
the development of air pockets in the receptor phase, PBS was degassed in an The results are expressed as mean
± standard deviation (SD, n = 5). Statistically significant differences between various permeation datawere
determined using F-test, Fisher’s least significant difference (LSD), analysis of variance (ANOVA) and multiple
range tests at 95 % confidence level.7
16. Preference Test: The parameters of preference tests based on sensory evaluation were a scent, color, and
sensation on the skin. The level of preference was assessed using a numerical scale, i.e. 5 = like extremely, 4 =
like, 3 = neutral, 2 = dislike, 1 = dislike extremely.8

17. Test for thermal stability

Thermal stability of the formulation was determined by the humidity chamber controlled at 60- 70% RH and
37 ± 1oC.

18. Determination of total fatty matter

2g of the sample was weighed in a conical flask, added 25ml of dil. HCL (1% v/v) & refluxed. Poured this into
the separating funnel and 50ml of ethyl ether were added in to it. The separating funnel was shaken well until
two layers were separated. The aqueous layer was separated out and added 50ml portion of ether twice. All the
ether extracts were combined and filter through the filter paper containing dried sodium sulphate on it. Distilled
off the ether (filtrate) & dried the material remaining in the flask at temperature 60±2oC to constant mass.
Calculation
Total Fatty Matter% = 100xM1/M 2
Where, M1= mass in gram of residue
M 2= mass in gram of material taken for test

19. Determination of water content

10g of the material was weighed and transferred it into the flask. 200ml of toluene and few pieces of pumice
stone was added and connected the apparatus with condenser. The flask was heated until toluene was begin to
boil and refluxed. When the H2O was distilled over source of heat was removed.
Calculation
Water % by mass = V X D x 100/ M
Where, V = volume of water in ml at room temperature collecting in receiving tube
D = density of water at room temperature
M = Mass in gm of the material taken for the test

20. Patch test

About 1-3gm of material to be tested was placed on a piece of fabric or funnel and applied to the sensitive part
of the skin e.g. skin behind ears. The cosmetic to be tested was applied to an area of 1sq.m.of the skin. Control
patches (of similar cosmetic of known brand) were also applied. The site of patch is inspected after 24 hrs. As
there was no reaction the test was repeated three times. As no reaction was observed on third application, the
person may be taken as not hypersensitive.9

References:

1. Saudagar R. B.* 1 and Sisodiya M. H., Review on Herbal Cosmetics, World Journal of Pharmaceutical
Research, Volume 7, Issue 7, 573-591.

2. R. M. Mehta, Pharmaceutics-II, Fourth Edition, (119-120) Vallabh Prakashan 2015.

3. Harshita Verma *, Dr. Dharmesh Sisodiya; Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lotion of Aloe Vera
(AloeBarbadensis) 2020 Scholars Academic Journal of Biosciences | Published by SAS Publishers, India

4. Dr. Santram Lodhi; Dr. Mohanlal Kori, Practical Book of Herbal Drug Technology, Edition 2020 S. Vikas &
Company- Medical Publishers P. No. 34-35

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5. Dr. Sweta Srivastava Koka; Ms. Surpriya Shidhaye, Handbook of Experimental- Herbal Drug Technology,
S. Vikas & Company- Medical Publishers,Editio 2020, P. No. 16,18,19

6. Vishakha Shinde; Kundan Tiwari; Formulation and Evaluation of Lemongrass Lotion International Journal
of PharmaO2Vol.2/Issue6/Nov.-Dec. 2020

7. SNH Shah et.al. Effect of Permeation Enhancers on the Release Behavior and Permeation Kinetics of Novel
Tramadol Lotions Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research February 2013; 12 (1): 27-32

8. N. M. Saptarini1, and G. Hadisoebroto, Formulation and Evaluation of Lotion and Cream of Nanosized
Chitosan-Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana L.) Pericarps extract Rasayan J. Chem., 13(2), 789-795(2020)

9. Namita and Nimisha Development and Evaluation of Herbal Cosmeceutical for Skin Care Int J Pharm Bio
Sci 2013 Apr; 4(2): (P) 86 - 92

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