Fine Woodworking Chests and Cabinets

W Chests
and Cabinets
Editors of
Fine Woodworking
W Chests
and Cabinets
Editors of Fine Woodworking
T
Text © 2014 by The Taunton Press, Inc.
Photographs © 2014 by The Taunton Press, Inc.
Illustrations © 2014 by The Taunton Press, Inc.
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L ib r a r y o f C o n g r e s s Catal o gi n g - i n - P u bli c ati o n Data
Fine woodworking chests and cabinets / editors of Fine woodworking.

pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-62710-712-9
ISBN 978-1-63186-019-5 (e-book)
1. Chests. 2. Cabinetwork. I. Fine woodworking. II. Title: Chests and cabinets.
TT197.F527 2014
684.1’6--dc23
2014017190
P r i n t e d i n t h e U n it e d Stat e s o f A m e r i c a
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
This book is complied from articles that originally appeared in Fine Woodworking
magazine. Unless otherwise noted, costs listed were current at the time the articles
first appeared.
A b ou t You r Saf et y: Working wood is inherently dangerous.
Using hand or power tools improperly or ignoring safety practices can lead
to permanent injury or even death. Don’t try to perform operations you
learn about here (or elsewhere) unless you’re certain they are safe for you.
If something about an operation doesn’t feel right, don’t do it. Look for
another way. We want you to enjoy the craft, so please keep safety foremost
in your mind whenever you’re in the shop.
Acknowledgments
Special thanks to the authors, editors,

art directors, copy editors, and other
staff members of Fine Woodworking who
contributed to the development of the
chapters in this book.
contents
Introduction 3
Part oNe
Chests and Cupboards
• shaker Blanket chest 4
• hickory and Ash Blanket chest 14
• shaker chest of drawers 24
• classic storage cupboard 34
• Frame-and-Panel doors Made easier 42
• chimney cupboard 48
• Pennsylvania spice Box 58
Part tWo
Sideboards and Consoles
• The high Art of the Lowboy 70
• Arts and crafts on display 80
• The versatile huntboard 90
• Sleek TV Console 100
• A Low Console for Home Theater 110
Part Three
Wall Cabinets
• Wall Cabinet in Cherry 118
• A Better Way to Build Wall Cabinets 126
• A Vanity Cabinet 134
Part Four
Bookcases
• Quick, Sturdy Bookcase 143
• Cherry and Fir Bookcase 151
• A Classic Bookcase 159
Metric Equivalents 167

Contributors 168
Credits 169
Index 170
2
Introduction
O
ne of the best things about Fine Best of all, you can get right to building.
Woodworking magazine is the No need to worry or fret over design, or
array of furniture projects we making prototypes to get a feel for scale
offer. From simple mitered boxes to tables to and appearance. Our expert builders and
chests, we’ve done them all. designers have done it all for you, providing
The hard part as a reader is waiting for tasteful takes on all types of chests and
that perfect project to appear in one of our cabinets, from period-perfect pieces to one-
six regular issues. That’s because we can fit of-a-kind, modern designs.
only two or three projects in an issue, and You’ll get classic Shaker designs for a
we have to offer a variety of pieces. So over blanket chest, a chest of drawers, and two
the course of a year we may do only one chest types of cupboards for your dishware. You
of drawers, or one blanket chest. But with can build an Arts and Crafts display cabinet
Chests and Cabinets, you get a collection of or bookcase, or take on the challenge of a
some of the best storage projects Fine Wood- vintage lowboy or Pennsylvania spicebox.
working has published. You’ll even get great designs for wall cabinets
Our editors scoured the pages of the mag- and bookcases. And each project is loaded
azine, looking for a perfect mix of projects with tips and tricks for getting the most out
to meet all skill levels, and putting them all of both machine and hand tools, techniques
in one place. With this complete collection, you’ll use down the road as you build more
you’ll get detailed instructions and plans, and more furniture.
paired with rich, informative photographs, I hope you have fun in the shop with these
to guide you through each project. projects. Now it’s time to get to work.
—Tom McKenna
Editor, Fine Woodworking
3
Shaker
Blanket C h a r l e s Du r f e e
Chest
T
he earliest storage chests were Match the dimensions to
simple boxes made of six boards. your hand-picked boards
As they evolved, a base, or plinth, Although the Shakers probably would have
was added to lift them off the floor and give used painted pine, modern woodworkers
them aesthetic appeal. Although molding the may prefer the natural look of fine wood. I
edges created a more finished look, anyone used some excellent single-log Pennsylvania
who used such a chest soon found that they cherry with lots of curl, nicely matched in
had to fish around for small items that ended grain and color.
up on the bottom. To solve this problem, You may need to adjust the overall dimen-
furniture makers added first one drawer, sions if you want to use specific boards in
and then two or even three drawers. Finally, particular places. In this case, I made the
the lid was eliminated, leaving a full chest of overall height a bit less than planned so that
drawers as we know it today. I could use an exceptionally fine single-width
During the evolution from blanket box board for the front. You can lay out the
to chest of drawers, the grain in the sides actual dimensions on a story stick, using one
changed from horizontal to vertical. Many of face each for height, width, and depth. The
the single-drawer versions exhibit an inter- story stick will give you all of the informa-
mediate stage in this evolution, with vertical tion necessary to begin construction, so you
grain in the sides nailed to horizontal grain won’t need any drawings.
in the front, which probably is the only way After double-checking to ensure plan-
they could be joined. In this piece, the older ning and layout make sense, mill and glue
style with all horizontal grain is retained, the boards for the front, sides, back, top,
which enables the front, back, and sides to and drawer front. Leave the inner bottom
be joined with dovetails. As long as the sides oversize; it should be sized to just fit into its
don’t get too tall, this is a superior form of grooves. In addition, you can make up the
construction: Seasonal wood movement bottom frame-and-panel. Remove any dry
results in the parts moving together, instead excess glue and flatten the boards using
of against each other. planes or sanders and a straightedge. To save
time, I take the parts to a local mill shop and
run them through a thickness sander.
With the case front, back, and sides cut to
size, run the grooves for the inner bottom (on
the front, the groove technically is a rabbet).
(continued on p. 8)
4
SH A K ER BL A N K ET C H ES T 5
Dovetailed Blanket Chest with a Drawer
Because of the drawer, the front corners have fewer dovetails than the rear corners. The dovetail spacing
may be slightly different on the back than on the front but should appear to be the same.
401⁄ 2 in. 193⁄4 in.
131⁄ 2 in.
211⁄4 in.
27 in.
5 in.
391⁄ 2 in. 20 in.
Lipped-Front Drawer
The cherry drawer front is lipped on the top and sides.
The sides, back, and bottom of the drawer are made
of a secondary wood.
Groove, 1⁄4 in. deep by
Thumbnail 1⁄ 2 in. wide
profile
Drawer bottom,
1⁄ 2
in. thick
Front, 3⁄4 in. thick

by 131⁄ 2 in. wide by
38 in. long
Rabbet,
1⁄4in. deep
Drawer front, 13⁄16 in. thick,
by 3⁄4 in. wide
has a 1⁄4 -in. rabbet along
the sides and a 1⁄4 -in. by
5 ⁄16 -in. rabbet at the top. Drawer sides
and back, 1⁄ 2 in.
thick
6 c h e s t s a n d c u p b oa r d s
Top-Molding Detail
Top, 3⁄4 in. thick by The molding consists of a half-
18 5⁄ 8 in. wide by round and a cove glued together
381⁄4 in. long, not and attached to the chest lid.
including molding The side molding on the top slides Half-round
on dovetail keys and is glued only Key, 1⁄4 in. thick
molding, 7⁄ 8 in.
at the miters (see detail). by 1⁄ 2 in. wide
thick by
11⁄ 8 in. wide
Inner bottom, 3⁄4 in. thick

by 177⁄16 in. wide by Cove molding,
367⁄ 8 in. long, glued at 1⁄ 2 in. by 1⁄ 2 in.
front only
Back, 3⁄4 in. thick by

211⁄4 in. tall by 38 in. long
Cedar lining,
1⁄4 in. thick
Stopped groove in Rabbet,

each side, 3⁄16 in. 3⁄ 8in. deep by
deep by 3⁄4 in. wide 3⁄4 in. wide
Stopped groove,
3⁄ 8 in. deep by
3⁄4 in. wide
Bottom frame,
181⁄ 8 in. wide by
371⁄4 in. long
Panel, 1⁄ 2 in. thick,

with 1⁄4 -in.-thick by
3⁄ 8 -in.-wide tongues
Sides, 3⁄4 in. thick

211⁄4 in. tall
Base front and back, Trim pieces, 1⁄ 2 in.

3⁄4 in. thick by 5 in. thick by 3⁄4 in. wide
by 71⁄ 2 in. long
wide by 391⁄ 2 in. long
Cleats, 3⁄4 in. sq., Frame, 3⁄4 in. thick by 2 in. wide,
screwed to base and with 1⁄4 -in. by 1-in. tenons
bottom frame
Base sides, 3⁄4 in. thick
by 5 in. wide by 20 in. long
Sh a k er bl a n k et c h es t 7
Lay out the dovetails. Use a pair of dividers to
lay out the dovetails evenly. The spacing on the
front corners may need to be slightly different
from the spacing on the rear due to the presence
of the drawer.
Extend the layout to the end of the board.

After marking the tails on the face of the board
with a sliding bevel, extend the lines across the
Line up the boards. Before laying out the pins, ensure that the boards are flat
end of the board using a square and a knife.
and meet at 90°.
The knife cuts will help guide the saw as you cut.
The grooves need to be stopped before the
ends and carefully aligned from the top so
that all four grooves match up. I use a 3⁄4 -in.
straight bit in a plunge router and run the
tool against a straightedge to ensure a
straight cut. Make the rabbet for the frame-
and-panel bottom in the same fashion,
stopped at the rear corners only.
Construct the carcase

with dovetails
Mark the pins from the tails. With the boards secure, use a
There are a lot of dovetails to cut in this
sharp pencil to transfer the location of the pins. A flashlight helps project, so you might as well decide on a
you see into the corners.
method of cutting them and stick with it. If
you use a router setup, make sure the jig can
handle the long row of the rear corners or has
a way to index setups. I cut the dovetails with
hand tools, which mostly is an exercise in
marking and sawing accurately.
When laying out the joints, aim for a spac-
ing between pins of about 13⁄4 in. on-center.
This chest has the peculiar problem of the
front and back rows being different lengths,
due to the drawer opening. Try to have the 1
front series end with a small half pin or a

small half tail, for appearance’s sake. Make
your scribe marks on the front edge of the
sides down to the drawer opening only.
When cutting the dovetails, orient the
outside face of the side toward you. Begin
sawcuts at the top back corner; come across
the top edge to set the saw in and then down
the front face at an angle, keeping the saw
completely in the kerf. Then finish the cut
by raising the handle gradually. To ensure 2
the cut is made to its full depth, I follow an

old-timer’s practice of cutting slightly past
the scribe on the back side. After cutting
the tails, check that they are square and do
any necessary paring. In this way, any
adjustments to get a good fit are done on
only the pins.
Use the tails to mark the pins

When marking from one part to the next,
make sure the front and back are perfectly
square to each side and that the grooves line
up so that the inner bottom will be able to
slide in. I use a very sharp pencil lead extended
from a lead holder for marking. It leaves a 3
fine line, is much easier to see than a knife Assemble the chest in stages. Gluing this many dovetails is
scribe, and doesn’t accidentally cut the tail. stressful enough without trying to do all of them at once. Before
With the case dovetailing done, cut the you start, make some cauls on the bandsaw to fit over the
protruding pins. (1) First glue the front to the two sides and slide in
recesses for the trim pieces on the lower front
the inner bottom, gluing the front edge into the rabbet and allowing
edges of the sides. the rest to float. (2) When this first assembly has dried, glue on the
back, again using the cauls. (3) When the back is dry, fit and glue
the frame-and-panel base into the bottom rabbet.
When Things Go Wrong With Your Dovetails
Hand-cut dovetails should not be perfect and indeed rarely will be. However, some faults that occur during fit-
ting or assembly need to be repaired because they detract from the overall appearance of the piece.
When a test fit Unsightly gaps

cracks the wood between pins
When dry-fitting dovetails, it and tails
takes only one too-tight pin Don’t despair if there are
to cause a crack. This needs gaps on either side of the
to be repaired before the two pins and tails. If the gaps are
boards are dovetailed to- very narrow, you can repair
gether. It’s difficult to force them by inserting some glue
glue down into the crack, and peening the tail or pin
but by placing the board with a ball-peen hammer.
half hanging off the bench and then flexing it while The blows spread out the end grain until it fills the
pushing the glue into the crack with your finger, you gaps. This method requires that the tail or pin pro-
can work the glue in from both sides until the joint trude at least 1⁄16 in. because it will be necessary to
is saturated. Place waxed paper over the joint to plane away the crushed surface end grain.
protect the clamp that keeps the two sides of the If the gaps are wide, the best way to fill them is by
crack parallel, and then place another clamp across tapping in a thin wedge lubricated with a little glue.
the board to pull the crack together. After the glue has dried, saw off the protruding part
Repair a crack. While flexing
of the wedge and smooth the surface with a block
the board up and down, force plane. The end grain of the wedge will be an almost
glue into the crack (left). Use perfect match with the pin or tail.
one clamp to keep both sides
of the crack aligned, with
waxed paper between the
glue and clamp; then close
the crack with another clamp
across the board (below).
Peen small gaps. Small

gaps can be filled by
inserting a little glue and
then hitting the pin or tail Shim larger gaps.
with a ball-peen hammer. Do A narrow wedge driven
this before planing the pins into the gap beside a
flush so that the hammer pin will make an almost
marks can be removed. invisible end-grain repair.
Dry-fit the carcase before
Trim Pieces
final assembly Hide the Apply glue
When dry-fitting the case parts, push the End Grain only at the
joints together as much as possible by hand, top.
Trim pieces are
then use a rubber mallet. When the joints attached with sliding
Notch in
are almost there, resort to clamps. You walk a dovetail keys that
chest side
allow for seasonal
fine line when fitting exposed dovetails: Too for trim
movement. The
piece
tight, and you risk splitting the wood; too pieces stop short
of the bottom by
loose, and you leave gaps between the pins 1⁄4 in., with the gap
Notch the
and tails. Fortunately, splits and gaps can be concealed by the cove chest bottom
molding of the base.
fixed (see “When Things Go Wrong with to accommodate
Dovetail
the trim piece.
Your Dovetails” on the facing page). key
For the glue-up, I make special clamp
cauls (see the photos on p. 9) to span the pins
because they protrude somewhat. To make Trim piece
the glue-up less nerve-wracking, break down slides onto
the key.
the process into steps. Assemble the front,
the two sides, and the inner bottom as a unit
first. The front edge of the inner bottom is
glued only to the front rabbet (the rest is left
unglued to allow for seasonal movement).
If necessary, cut a temporary spacer to hold
the rear edges in the correct alignment. The
second step is to glue on the back. When the
back is dry, fit and glue the base frame into
the bottom rabbet.
Cap the end grain. To conceal the end grain, the sides are
notched adjacent to the drawer, and trim pieces are attached over
dovetail keys. (1) After assembling the case, notch the case bottom
where it intersects the sides. (2) Then screw the dovetail key to the
case using the trim piece to aid alignment. (3) Finally, saw apart
the key to allow for seasonal movement of the case. Glue the trim
1 piece only at the top.
Conceal the end grain
Install the Bracket Base
with trim pieces
Frame-and-panel With the carcase assembled, cut a notch in
bottom the base frame at each front corner for the
trim pieces. On original Shaker chests, these
Cove
molding, trim pieces as well as the moldings were
1⁄ 2 in.
simply nailed on, which not only caused
by 1⁄ 2 in.
seasonal wood-movement problems but also
Cleats are
screwed to were aesthetically unpleasing in an unpainted
5 in. the base piece. A more elegant solution is to attach
and chest. 4 in.
these cross-grain parts with sliding dovetail
Corner block is
keys. I vary this method slightly, screwing
glued to the base.
the key on beginning at the inboard end and
3 in. pulling off the molding, fastening as I go.
The segments are cut out and the molding
slid back on with glue at the inboard end.
Leave the bottom end of the trim pieces
about 1⁄4 in. short of the case bottom to allow
for seasonal expansion. The cove molding
will cover the gap.
Save the waste piece. After cutting the profile of the base, save
the offcuts, which can be cut in two and used as clamping cauls
when gluing together the base.
2 3
Attach the cleats. Screw cleats to all four sides of the base. Fit the molding. Because the grain on the chest runs
Then drive screws up through each cleat to attach the base to horizontally, the base molding can be glued to both the base
the chest. and the sides.
Build the base and the top same direction as the case. Cut the dovetails
before attaching the molding by hand, but use a Forstner ® bit to drill
On this chest, the base runs around all four out the bulk of the waste between the half-
sides, as opposed to most Early American blind pins.
chests, which have bracket bases on the front
and sides only. Saw the dovetails first and Attach the hardware and
then cut out the profile on the bandsaw; you finish the piece
can save the cutouts to use as clamp cauls. By now you will have something that looks
Nail a plywood template to the back of the like a chest. The top is secured with mortised-
base pieces and clean up the profile on the in butt hinges. I used extruded-brass hinges
router table with a top-guided bearing bit. from Whitechapel (www.whitechapel-ltd.
Screw cleats to the inside of the base and com), but you may opt for a more authentic
drive screws through the cleats to attach the style with thinner leaves. When the top is
base to the chest. fastened, find the location for the stay. I used
Because the moldings overlap the top edge a brass chain, which isn’t strictly traditional
of the case, the top should be sized so that Shaker but still shares a similar simplicity.
the front clearance is proportional to the Throughout the construction process, you
amount of seasonal wood movement. I built should have been planing, scraping, and/or
this chest in the winter, and the wood’s sanding to all but the final passes. I gener-
moisture content was 6%, so I sized the top ally take out machine marks (including the
with a minimal clearance of a strong 1⁄16 in. tracks left by the thickness sander) with a
(3⁄16 in. to 1⁄4 in. should be sufficient clearance handplane and scraper. The final work is
for a summer-built chest). done with a 220-grit disk in a random-orbit
The top molding consists of a half-round sander.
and a cove made on the router table and then I used Minwax ® Antique Oil Finish, but
glued together. While you’re at it, make some any oil/varnish mixture will work well. The
extra cove molding for the base. The front first coat is always exciting—the figure fairly
piece is mitered and glued to the top, while jumps off the surface—but it also reveals any
the sides are installed over dovetail keys, with dents, dings, and glue splotches that should
glue at the miters only. be wet sanded with finish using 220-grit or
The drawer front is in the traditional style, higher sandpaper.
lipped on the top and sides and molded all After the finishing is completed, add the
around. The sides and back on my drawer are thin cedar lining in the chest bottom. I used
quartersawn pine, and the bottom is poplar. some leftover western red cedar clapboards.
You can find quartered stock at any lumber- I planed them down, shiplapped the edges,
yard—just look through a stack of boards for and tacked them in, leaving them unfinished.
ones with growth rings perpendicular to the Years hence, a light sanding will refresh the
board’s face. smell, allowing me to recall the pleasure of
Cut the drawer front first, with its side building this piece.
rabbets trimmed so that they just fit into
the opening. The top rabbet needs to have
only about 1⁄16 in. of clearance because sea-
sonal movement of the drawer will be in the
Hickory and
Ash Blanket peter t urner
Chest
W
hen thumbing through was one of the three proposals I submitted,
furniture books, I find myself and this is the piece the jury chose.
drawn to long, low chests, To present my proposal, I offered scaled
similar to the wooden chests my folks had in drawings that gave top, front, and end views.
our living room when I was a kid. So when The process of drawing usually lets my mind
I was invited to participate as a guest artist walk through the fabrication so I’m sure
in the New Hampshire Furniture Masters the piece will work. Everything comes off
Association’s 2008 auction, a blanket chest the drawings. When things get tricky, like
14
Legs Are the Cornerstones Taper the
3⁄4 in.
Mortises, 1⁄4 in. wide Legs First
3⁄ 8 in.
93° Plywood Clamp
11⁄ 2 in. base
171⁄ 8 in. 53⁄4 in.
Panel grooves,
5 ⁄16 in. wide by
3⁄ 8 in. deep by
10 in. long
A simple jig establishes the angle. To
Mortises, keep the grain parallel with the outside slant
7⁄ 8
in. deep of the leg, the author tapers the inside edge. 3°
19⁄16 in.
3°
21⁄4 in. Fence
90° 1 in.
87°
11⁄4 in.
1 in. 51⁄ 2 in. 17⁄ 8 in.
angled or intricate joinery, I go back to them,

laying pieces right on the full-size drawings
to physically check measurements and angles.
I did full-sizers of the leg blank and the ends, Now cut the legs to length. Putting the
and to be extra sure, I made story sticks to lay inside edge against the fence means you can
out the frames and panels. avoid cutting a compound angle on the ends.
A simple 3° blade tilt does the job.
The legs of this frame-and-panel chest
serve as end pieces for the front, back, and
end frames. The top and panels are ash; the assemblies lean into the angle on the end as-
frames are hickory. I applied battens to the semblies, so the tops of all the long top rails
one-piece top to keep it flat. I kept all thick- will need the angle too.
nesses beefy for heft and used double floating I favor floating tenons because of their
tenons for strength. To emphasize the length efficiency when dealing with angled joinery.
of the chest, the grain of the panels runs They are as strong as any integral tenon, and
horizontally. you don’t need to fit angled shoulders—you
To keep the construction manageable, all just make simple butt joints. After planing
the angles are the same, off from square by my tenon stock to fit a test mortise, I rounded
3°. First, the angle is found on the outside both edges of the stock on the router table
top and bottom of each leg. Next, the end and scored both faces with two shallow kerfs
frames and panels also get the 3° angle, but for glue relief. With a few crosscuts, I had
the front and back frames and panels don’t, my tenons.
which means the end joinery is angled but
the front and rear are not. The front and rear
h ic kory a n d a sh bl a n k et c h es t 15
Blanket Chest Top, 7⁄ 8 in. thick by 16 in.
wide by 48 in. long
A straightforward approach to angled joinery simplifies the
construction of this frame-and-panel chest, while thick parts
and dense woods (ash and hickory) lend heft to a sleek design.
Eye straps
Battens, 3⁄4 in. thick by

1 3⁄4 in. wide by 13 in.
long; end screw holes
slotted to allow for
movement
Butt hinge
Groove for
tray runner
Pins, inserted from
inside after glue-up,
locate panels.
Loose tenons,
1⁄4 in. thick by
11⁄ 2 in. wide
by 1 3⁄4 in. long
Ledgers, screwed
to bottom frame
and case sides
3⁄16 -in.
dowels
locate side
Lower side rails, 1 in. panels to legs.
thick by 4 in. wide by
Bottom frame
153⁄ 8 in. long
stiles, 3⁄4 in. thick
11 in. long
Loose tenons, 1⁄4 in. thick by Bottom frame rails, 3⁄4 in. thick
21⁄4 in. wide by 1 5⁄ 8 in. long by 21⁄ 2 in. wide by 411⁄ 2 in. long
(bottom trimmed to fit later)
16 in. 48 in.
7⁄ 8 in.
3° 3°
90°
18 in.
2 in.
153⁄ 8 in. 6 in.
Tray sides, 9⁄16 in.
thick by 5 in. wide
by 20 in. long
Upper side rails, 1 in.

thick by 23⁄ 8 in. wide Tray hangers,
5 ⁄16in. thick by
by 1331⁄ 32 in. long
11⁄16 in. wide by
Tray runners, 1⁄ 2 in.
wide by 35 in. long by 18 1⁄4 in. long, fit
7⁄16 in. tall into 5⁄16 -in.-deep
Side panels, 1 in. thick by
Tray ends, 9⁄16 in. 5 ⁄16 in. groove.
71⁄4 in. wide by 10 in. long
thick by 5 in. wide
These tongues can’t be
pinned from the outside, so 11⁄16 in.
center a dowel on the tongue. Tray
hanger
Upper rail,
1 in. thick by
Bottom panels, 3⁄4 in. thick by 23⁄ 8 in. wide
103⁄4 in. wide by 111⁄ 2 in. long by 35 in. long
Bottom dividers, 3⁄4 in. thick

by 1 5⁄ 8 in. wide
by 11 in. long
Center panel, 1 in.

thick by 10 in. wide
Side panels, Dividers, 1 in. thick by

1 in. thick by 11⁄ 2 in. wide by 101⁄4 in.
10 in. wide by long
10 in. long Stub tenon,
3⁄ 8 in. long
Lower rail, 1 in.

thick by 4 in. wide
by 35 in. long
48 in.
Tongues on panels,
5 ⁄16 in. thick by
16 in.
3⁄ 8 in. long 24-in. radius
Legs, 1 in. thick

by 51⁄ 2 in. wide
7 3⁄4 in.
Create compound-
angled legs
Generally, I like to start with the trickiest
joinery. That way, I can get the most difficult
parts finished and know it will only get easier
as I go. On this chest, the mortises on the
legs and rail ends called loudest to go first.
Before I cut any mortises, I had to create the
angles in the legs. By removing the wedge
from the inside of the leg rather than the
outside, I kept the grain orientation parallel
to the leg’s outer slanting edge. Then I cut
them to length at an angle, which establishes
the only compound angles in the piece (see
photos on p. 15).
Cut mortises in pairs

Nearly all the parts of this chest are 1 in.
thick. The weight called for substantial
joinery, so I doubled the tenons to create
twice the glue surface. There are a lot of
mortises to cut in the leg edges, leg faces, and
all the rail ends. I used a basic spacer method
on the edge guide of my router to give me
repeatability so that all the pairs of double
mortises would match.
Face mortises. Run the router’s edge guide

along the outside edge when cutting both face
and edge mortises. After cutting the first set
of mortises, the author attaches a spacer with
double-faced tape (top) to bump out the edge
guide and make the second set of mortises
parallel to the first (above).
Same method for edge mortises. When

cutting double mortises on the leg edges,
stack two legs to give the router base more
surface to ride on.
Mortise and shape the rails. End rails have angled shoulders. The author cuts the 3° angle on one end of the rail and then uses a
full-size drawing to mark the length (left) of the other end. He uses a simple vise-mounted jig when mortising the ends. It holds the rails
square and gives a surface for the edge guide to ride on. The jig works for the angled rails too (right).
To cut the leg face mortises, transfer the

locations from the drawing and use a plunge
router with an adjustable edge guide. Though
the tenons come in at an angle, I cut the mor-
tises perpendicular to the leg face. The time
savings makes up for the bit of glue surface
that must be trimmed from the tenons.
I mortised the leg edges by again using a
plunge router with an edge guide. To give the
router base more surface to ride on, I stacked
two legs together, flush at the angled edge.
For the rail ends, I used a jig that mounts in
my bench vise. For all of these doubled mor-
tises, use the same spacer for the second cut.
Later, I used a dado blade to cut grooves
in the rails and dividers that hold the panels.
But the panel grooves in the leg faces and
leg edges cannot go through or they will be
visible, so while you’re working on the legs
and the router is out, plunge-rout all of these Cut the curve in the lower rails. Once the mortises are cut,
stopped grooves with a 5⁄16 -in. straight bit. the author bandsaws the curve of the lower rails close to the line
Square up the ends by hand. and then template-routs the final curve.
Groove the Rails
All of the panel grooves are square,
but the long top rails need an angled
groove for the tray runner.
93° Groove,
7⁄16 in. wide
by 3⁄16 in.
deep
Rabbet 1⁄4 in.

by 1⁄4 in.
93°
Angle the dado set. Use a bevel gauge Cut the groove. Once the dado blade
90°
Tray runner,
to ensure that the dado blade matches the is tilted, set the blade height and cut a
7⁄16 in. by 1⁄ 2 in. 3° angle on the rest of the blanket chest. through-groove to hold the tray runner.
Groove for panel,
5 ⁄16 in. wide by
3⁄ 8 in. deep Once all the mortises and grooves are
cut, bandsaw the curves that define the feet
and give the lower rails their final shape.
After glue-up, you’ll return to the spots
where the feet meet the bottom rails and
refine the curve.
Panels and dividers

are tongue-and-groove
After the mortises, it’s time to work on the
dividers, rails, and panels. Using multiple
passes over the tablesaw blade and a stop
clamped to the crosscut sled, cut stub tenons
on both ends of the dividers. Then, using a
dado set, cut grooves for the panels in the
edges of the dividers.
Without changing the dado-blade setting,
run the straight grooves (for the panels
and divider tenons) in the long rails. And
Bevel the top edges. After switching back to a rip blade, the top
while the dado set is still in the tablesaw, edge of the top rails must also be cut to the 3° angle.
make the angled grooves for the tray runners
in the inside faces of the long upper rails.
Finally, rip the angle on the top edge of the cut a tongue in the center to keep the faces of
upper rails. the panels flush with the frame. First I cut the
I like the look of uninterrupted surfaces on angle on the outside edges of the end panels.
the same plane, so rather than inserting thin Then I cut the tongues on the tablesaw.
panels in a groove, I used thick panels and
Cut tongues on the
tablesaw. With the panels
facedown, cut around the
edges on all sides. Then
ride the panel on edge
and cut off the rest of the
waste material, leaving
the tongue. Keep the panel
between the blade and the
fence so the offcuts fall to
the outside of the blade.
Make the panels. The side panels are tapered. To angle the
outside edges, the author uses the same jig he used to cut the
angle on the legs.
Glue up in stages: front and back first. The author uses Unibond 800 for more open time. Place the center panel into the bottom rail,
add the dividers and then the end panels, set the top rail on, and add the legs last (left). Center marks help locate the dividers and keep
everything evenly spaced. Angled cauls keep the clamps aligned. Next, the author uses a coping saw to cut the curve at the top of each leg
and then uses a block plane to take it to its final shape (right).
Add the ends. Lay the front

assembly face down and add
the end rails. Slide in the first
panel, then the divider, and
then the second panel (far
left). Once you add the back
assembly, gently turn the
whole thing upside down and
clamp securely (left). Use the
same angled clamping cauls
as before.
Glue up in sections to cut the lid to shape. I made a full-size
Start the glue-up with the front and back, template for the end curves, but before using
each with two legs, two long rails, two the template and the router to cut the shape,
dividers, and three panels. Use angled cauls I wasted away close to the line with the band-
and pipe clamps to help distribute pressure. saw. From there I used a handheld router and
Once the front and back assemblies have a 1⁄ 2-in. roundover bit with bearing to shape
cured, pin the panels in place from the inside the ends and front edge to their final profile,
with toothpicks. This keeps the gaps even as a roundover with a distinct sharp edge.
the solid panels expand and contract. Pin-
ning the panels after the glue-up works with Sliding tray glides on
the front and back frames but doesn’t work shopmade runners
on the ends of the chest, where the panels fit The carcase glue-up gives interior dimensions
into the face of the leg. There, I used a dowel for both the dovetailed sliding tray and the
centered in the tongue and groove. frame-and-panel bottom.
After finish-sanding the interior, it is time Cut the rabbet for the chest-mounted tray
to add the short sides (two angled short rails, runners from wide stock on the tablesaw.
one divider, and two panels per side), reus- Then rip the pieces to width. Chop the run-
ing the angled cauls to clamp the case. Take ners to length to exactly match the length of
care that all top rails sit flush with the legs, or the upper rails. Give both ends a curve and
you’ll have to take great pains to flush every- then glue them into the front and back rails
thing up after the glue-up. of the chest. It’s important that the runners
While this assembly is drying, glue and be fully seated in their grooves so that they
clamp the bottom frame (two rails, two provide maximum support for the sliding
dividers, and three panels), and set it aside to hangers.
fit into the case later. After hand-cutting the dovetails, rout
stopped grooves on the outside top of the tray
Hinge the lid after
glue-up is complete
On a one-piece top, I like to orient the lid’s Install the Bottom and Top
end grain so that the rings look like smiles.
Bevel the bottom and Screw the ledger
Then, at some point in the future, if it wants test-fit, repeating until strip to the side
to cup, the front edge of the lid should dive the fit is snug. and bottom.
into the front of the chest rather than up

and away.
Rout the rear rail for its hinges. Place the
oversize lid on the chest to adjust its position.
Once you’re sure about the placement of the
lid, use the mortises in the rail to mark and
then rout the corresponding mortises in the
lid. By mounting the lid, you can test its fit
again, mark and cut its finished dimensions,
and grab a measurement for the rope stop.
With the top cut to length, I used a tem-
plate and router with a flush-trimming bit
Fit and secure the bottom. The ledger strips
have pairs of holes: One is for screwing the strip
into the side of the chest and the other is for
fixing the bottom in place.
sides to hold the hangers and then glue and

clamp the hangers into their grooves. To
make the openings for the tray handles, I Attach the lid. The author uses a strip of wood, clamped to the
used a shopmade template and a router back of the chest, to help hold the lid in place while he secures
the hinges.
equipped with a guide bushing and 1⁄4 -in.
straight bit. First I marked the cutouts and
removed the waste, just outside the line, Apply finish
with a jigsaw. Then I clamped the template and add a rope stay
on the tray and routed to the line, removed I finished the lid and bottom before
the template, and hit the edges with a 1⁄4 -in. attaching them to the chest. The interior
roundover bit to soften them. and tray got a couple coats of Zinnser® Bulls
Eye® clear shellac, cut with equal parts of
Ledger strips hold denatured alcohol. For the outside, both
the bottom in place sides of the top, and the battens, I wiped on
Because the sides and ends of the chest angle a mixture of equal parts tung oil, satin spar
in, the frame-and-panel bottom must be varnish, and thinner. When the finish was
fitted from the bottom and then secured dry, I attached the battens, remounted the
with a ledger strip from underneath. I drilled lid, and secured the bottom.
and countersunk for pairs of screws in the For the rope stay, I found a Web site
ledger strips. There’s a little trial and error as (www.animatedknots.com) that showed me,
you sneak up on the fit of the bottom. Keep step by step, how to create an eye in the end
in mind that a small decrease in width and of a line. I positioned the eye straps and rope
length allows the bottom to take a large jump so that the straps clear each other when the
up into the chest. lid is closed and the open lid rests just a bit
past vertical.
Shaker
Chest of C h r i s t i a n Be c k s vo or t
Drawers
24
Y
ears ago, clients wanted me to make
a blanket chest to store shirts and
sweaters. Blanket chests are great
for quilts and blankets, but they tend to
allow small items to drift toward the bottom
and get lost. For clothes, I mused, drawers
would make the contents more accessible.
And if I used the same outside dimensions
as a blanket box, they could still place the
chest at the foot of the bed and sit on it, or Dual-purpose jig for dadoes and dovetails. Like many chests
push it against the wall to use as a dresser. of drawers, the sides of this one need a dovetail–dado combo for
The different drawer depths would add to the rails and drawer runners and a long sliding dovetail for the
bottom. One simple jig handles them all. Setup is easy. Registering
the versatility of what the chest could hold.
off the front edge of the side, it’s easy to clamp the jig square and
They took my advice and they still love the cut dadoes and dovetails precisely.
finished chest.
As with much of my work, this design
is heavily influenced by the Shaker design
ethic, with its simple lines, functional design,
solid construction, and cherry wood. There
are a number of parts, but the construction
is straightforward. I use half-blind dovetails
to secure the sides to a subtop, and a sliding
dovetail to secure the bottom to the sides. A
vertical divider gets centered in the top and Dovetail meets dado. Use a 3⁄4 -in. dovetail bit to cut the dovetail
bottom and dadoed in place. Front and back notch for the front and back rails (left). Without moving the jig (the
rails are notched around the vertical divider author has two identical routers so he doesn’t have to change bits),
use a 3⁄4 -in. straight bit to cut the dado that will hold the drawer
and dovetailed into place. I use a sturdy
runners (right).
frame-and-panel back, glued into a rabbet,
so the piece looks beautiful from all direc-
tions. And the main top gets screwed in place
from the underside of the subtop. This is
the same construction I use on all my case
pieces, so the anatomy could work for a taller
chest, too.
Tackle the sides first

Most of the business happens on the side
pieces. But before I hand-chop any half-blind
dovetails, the side pieces get a rabbet, leg
arches, a sliding dovetail, and a dado with a
dovetail at the front.
Two cuts for a long sliding dovetail. Before the final pass with
(continued on p. 28)
a 3⁄4 -in. dovetail bit, the author uses a smaller straight bit to waste
away the material, making the dovetail cleaner and easier to cut.
Sh a k er c h est of dr aw er s 25
Built to Last
Half-blind dovetails, sliding dovetails, and dadoes ensure
decades of flawless function. A frame-and-panel back makes
the chest look good from all directions.
A. Stretcher end detail

Dado for vertical
divider, 3⁄4 in. wide
Dado, 3⁄4 in. wide by 1⁄ 8 in. deep
by 1⁄ 8 in. deep
3⁄4 in. Rabbet for back, 1⁄ 2 in.
Tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick by wide by 5⁄ 8 in. deep
3⁄4 in. wide by
11⁄ 2 in. long
3⁄ 8 in. Vertical divider,

3⁄4in. thick by
18 5⁄ 8 in. deep by
173⁄4 in. tall
B. Stretcher/vertical divider detail
Tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick by 3⁄4 in. A

wide by 11⁄ 2 in. long Drawer
runner
Dado, 3⁄4 in. wide
by 1⁄ 8 in. deep Spline, 1⁄4 in. thick
by 1 in. wide
B
Notch, 3⁄4 in. wide

by 11⁄ 8 in. deep
Rail, 3⁄4 in. thick
Vertical divider by 21⁄ 8 in. wide by
461⁄ 2 in. long
Drawer sides and

back, 1⁄ 2 in. thick
Groove, 1⁄4 in. wide Drawer bottom,
48 in. 1⁄4 in. thick
by 1⁄4 in. deep
77⁄ 8 in.
24 in.
87⁄ 8 in.
Drawer front,
3⁄4 in. thick
31⁄ 2 in. 41⁄4 in.

Drawer pull, 1 in. dia. by
451⁄ 2 in. 1 in. long, with 1⁄ 2 -in.-dia. by
5 ⁄ 8 -in.-long tenons
47 in.
Top, 3⁄4 in. thick by 193⁄4 in. Top edge detail
1⁄4 -in. radius
wide by 48 in. long
Subtop, 3⁄4 in. thick by 18 5⁄ 8 in.

wide by 461⁄ 2 in. long, screwed to 1⁄ 2 -in. radius
top from underneath
Top rail, 5⁄ 8 in. thick

by 1 3⁄4 in. wide by
Center stiles, 5⁄ 8 in. 461⁄ 2 in. long
Tenons, 1⁄4 in. thick by
181⁄4 in. long
1 3⁄4 in. long
Panel, 5⁄ 8 in. thick by 91⁄4 in. wide

by 16 in. long, with 1⁄4 -in.-thick by
1⁄ 2 -in.-long tongue
End stile, 5⁄ 8 in. thick by

1 3⁄4 in. wide by
231⁄4 in. long
Bottom rail, 5⁄ 8 in.

461⁄ 2 in. long
Panel groove,
1⁄4 in. wide by
1⁄ 2 in. deep
Bottom, 3⁄4 in. thick

by 185⁄ 8 in. wide by c. Bottom detail
461⁄ 2 in. long
Tenon, 1⁄4 in. long by
11⁄ 2 in. wide
C Drawer runner, Side

3 ⁄4in. thick by
21⁄ 8 in. wide by
171⁄ 8 in. long,
Glue rear tenons not 3⁄4 in.
blocks glued
31⁄ 2 in.
3 ⁄4 in. Apron detail

Bottom
15⁄16 in. 1⁄ 2 in.
Drawer stop, 3⁄ 8
in.
Radius,
1 3⁄4 in. thick by 5⁄ 8 in. wide by
2 in. long, inset
Cut profile 3⁄4 in. from front edge Side, 3⁄4 in. thick 21⁄ 8 in.
after glue-up. by 191⁄4 in. wide by
11⁄ 2 in. 231⁄4 in. long
21⁄ 8 in.
First, rabbet the side pieces with two ripcuts parallel bars, spaced the width of the router
on the tablesaw. This rabbet will accept the base, clamping it square to the carcase side.
back. Then draw the leg arches on the side The same jig works for the dadoes on the
pieces and use a bandsaw to cut them out and sides of the vertical divider and the dadoes in
a block plane to smooth the straight edges. I the subtop and bottom that hold the vertical
clean up the arches using a balloon sander on divider. While the router and jig are out, cut
my lathe and finish up with hand-sanding. the dadoes in each side of the vertical divider.
Now it’s time to pick up the router and Along with the dadoes in the sides, these will
tackle the dovetail–dado that holds the front hold the drawer runners. Line them up with
and back rails and the drawer runners as well the dadoes on the sides but leave the piece a
as the sliding dovetail that holds the bottom. bit long until you glue up the carcase and get
For all three I use a shopmade jig with two an exact measurement.
Half-blind dovetails in large panels. Half-blind dovetails make Chop and pare, chop and pare. Keeping the wide workpiece
a strong but clean-looking case. They can be a challenge on big flat, make a vertical cut in the scribed line, tipping the chisel
pieces, but the author has tricks for keeping the pieces flat and slightly forward (top right). Make the first cut light. Then, paring
aligned. On the subtop, the author marks the centers of the pins horizontally in from the end grain, remove a chip (above). Alternate
and uses a dovetail guide to lay out the tails (top left). To saw the between cutting down and cutting in until about halfway through,
long, wide board, he rests it on the floor and secures it in a vise. A then turn the board over and repeat the process until you’ve met in
thick, straight hardwood board clamped near the action keeps the the middle. Follow the same procedure after sawing the pins.
wide board flat (above).
Nail down the tail board to mark pins. Mark the location of the
tails on the pin board. On long, wide workpieces, the author uses a
Dovetailing small nail to help in the transfer. Align the boards and predrill. Tap
in the nail partway so it can be easily removed (top left). Using a
a large case piece marking knife and working from the nailed corner, scribe the tails
Cutting dovetails on a large piece is very onto the pin board (bottom left). Pivot the tail board into alignment
similar to cutting dovetails on a smaller box whenever necessary.
or drawer, but there are a few more things
to consider. Holding the pieces is more
challenging, keeping them flat is important,
and of course there is more material to
remove. The good news, at least with this
piece, is that even if your dovetails don’t look
perfect, they’ll be hidden by the subtop. I
always lay out and cut the tails first, then
transfer them and finish up with the pins.
Once you have the dovetails cut, it’s time
to glue the subtop to the sides. But first rout
the dadoes for the vertical divider in the sub-
top and bottom (using the same jig as before).
To find the center of both, it isn’t necessary
to do a dry-fit. The subtop, the bottom piece,
and the rails are all the same length, so just
stack the top and bottom together with the
ends flush and measure for the center. After
routing the dadoes, glue the dovetailed sub-
Cut the pins and then glue the top and sides. Spacers
top to the sides. The bottom doesn’t go in
between the legs keep the assembly square while the author
yet, so use spacers at the bottom of the legs to attaches the subtop to the sides. To keep from marring the carcase
keep everything straight and square. with heavy bar clamps, he uses spacers on the top and cauls on
the sides.
rails. The tenons get glued into the front rail
How to Tame Long sliding
but are left loose in the back rail to allow for
Long Sliding dovetails
can bind and
Dovetails wood movement.
freeze during
assembly,
but not if you Finish panels before
follow the
author’s steps
gluing in frames
closely. A frame-and-panel back, although more
work, gives as much diagonal racking
1⁄ 2
resistance as plywood (unlike nailed
in.
shiplapped, tongue-and-groove boards) and
looks much better. Once the case and all the
dividers are in place, make the frame-and-
panel back, leaving it a little too wide so
you can sneak up on the perfect fit with a
While that assembly is drying, move to the block plane. I profile the four panels with a
router table to cut the sliding dovetails in the 221⁄ 2° panel-raising bit. I pin the rails and
ends of the bottom and front and back rails. stiles for extra support and a nice design
Then slide the bottom into place. I glued only detail. Then I sand the inside face and fit
the last 3 in. to 4 in. at the front of the slid-
ing dovetail. Because the dovetail slot is deep,
it weakens the sides of the case, so I added
five glue blocks underneath each side. This
strengthens and anchors the lower sections of
the case sides to the bottom, yet still allows
for wood movement.
Divider helps drawers

run smoothly
The four drawers are separated by a vertical
divider that is cut to fit after the case is
assembled. With a handsaw, notch the
vertical divider to accept the notched front
and back rails, and then slide it in place.
These notches line up with the dadoes that
are already in the vertical divider. Don’t glue
the vertical divider in place because it is an
end-grain to long-grain joint, and glue won’t
hold. Instead, screw it in place, plugging the
holes in the bottom. The holes in the subtop
will be covered by the top.
The bottom drawers run on the bottom of
the case, but the top drawers run on a frame: Big workpiece is an added challenge. A featherboard applies
two rails and four drawer runners. The run- even pressure, keeping the long board on track and the cut
ners are tenoned into the front and back precise. Go for a snug fit.
Please don’t freeze. To prevent binding, don’t
use glue yet, and keep the bottom as straight as
possible as you slide it in most of the way (left).
Glue only the front 3 in. to 4 in. of the bottom
(above); otherwise, the joint will seize while you are
trying to bring the piece home. Use clamps to pull
the bottom evenly and steadily. Clamping blocks
that extend over the side keep the workpieces from
getting damaged and, more important, stop the
bottom when it is exactly flush with the sides.
the back to the case. I glue the back in place, introduce cross-grain gluing and could self-
secure it with small brads, countersink them, destruct. This way, the base expands and
and plug the holes. contracts (up and down), while the case side
it is glued to does not change in length.
Complete the base Next, sand the entire case and then cut
and profile the top the top of the case to size, allowing a 1⁄ 2-in.
To finish the front of the case, miter and overhang on the front and on each side. Rout
spline the three-piece base assembly, bandsaw the profile into the front and sides, sand the
the arches to the same radius as the sides, and top, and screw it into place from underneath
glue it into place. A one-piece base would through the subtop.
Rails and Dividers Guide the Drawers
This simple system keeps drawers from racking back and forth, tipping up, or dropping down.
1. Fit the vertical divider and tap it into position without glue. Screw it in from the top and bottom.
2. Fit the front rail and glue it into the sides and onto the vertical divider panel.
3. Install the four drawer runners. Apply glue only to the front tenons.
4. The back rail is glued into the dovetail slots and onto the vertical divider. The back mortise-and-tenon joints
are not glued. This allows the web frame to telescope in and out as the case expands and contracts.
5. Fit the back. The end stiles extend beyond the bottom rail and become an integral part of the back legs.
Use a block plane to sneak up on the fit before clamping and gluing.
6. Apply the mitered front base assembly. Add glue blocks afterward to strengthen the corner joints.
1 2
Drawers are the final step to mark the tight spots and a belt sander to
Before starting the dovetails on the drawers, remove material as I carefully fit the drawers
groove the sides and front. Now lay out the to their openings.
tails, saw and chop them, and move on to the Insert the drawer bottoms, and hold them
pins. I cut the pins and tails slightly proud in place with two saw slots and round-head
and flush everything up with a belt sander screws in the underside of the drawer backs.
after the drawers are glued. Knob holes also The knobs are turned on the lathe, the tenons
can be drilled at this point. I use a pencil cut to length, and then glued into place.
3 4
5 6
Before applying a finish, I go over the en-

tire piece to break and sand all edges includ-
ing around the drawer openings, and the gaps
between the frames and panels on the back.
Then I sign the piece and give it three coats of
an oil finish. The first coat is straight Danish
oil, and the final two coats are a mixture of
Tried & TrueTM varnish oil and spar varnish.
Classic
Storage C h r i s t i a n Be c k s vo or t
Cupboard
I
n “Shaker Chest of Drawers” (p. 24), Large panels can
I wrote about a low chest of drawers be a challenge
and focused on its case construction, Other than the size of the panels, the
drawer runner system, and using a shopmade carcase construction on this piece is almost
jig and router to cut dadoes and dovetail slots the same as the low chest in “Shaker Chest
in the carcase. Since then, a client asked me of Drawers.” There are a few differences:
to build a large cupboard to use in a kitchen. Because of the size of the pieces, I used a
This piece (and this chapter) picks up jigsaw instead of a bandsaw to cut the arches
where “Shaker Chest of Drawers” left off. I’ll into the bottoms of the two sides. This chest
expand on how I approach Shaker casework, has a permanent middle shelf that the low
showing you how to apply the three-sided chest doesn’t, and also because of the size of
face frame to the front. I’ll also walk you the pieces, I got creative about dovetailing
through how I fit and install drawers. Also, and how I transferred the tails to the pin
because the drawers are so wide, I included a boards. I laid out and cut the tails first on the
simple but effective center guide that keeps subtop, then moved to the half-blind pins
big drawers from binding. on the sides. I rested the long workpieces
The way I approached the doors is ap- on the ground and tacked the top in place
propriate for almost any Shaker piece, so the with a small brad, creating a freestanding
editors gave that technique its own spotlight inverted U. I stood on a stool to transfer the
(see “Frame-and-Panel Doors Made Easier” tails to the pin board, and then cut the pins
on p. 42). By the way, because this piece will at the bench. Once the dovetails, dadoes,
live in a kitchen, I sized the drawers to hold and rabbets were cut, I glued the subtop and
cutlery, kitchen linens, and even pots and bottom to the sides.
pans. But this classic storage piece can With the carcase together, it’s time to work
be adapted to any room of the house. on the web frames and runners that will hold
That’s what the Shakers would have done. the drawers in place and allow them to run
smoothly. For step-by-step details on this,
see “Rails and Dividers Guide the Drawers,”
p. 32. To separate the top drawers, I added a
centered vertical drawer divider and behind
that a center runner. Although the three
wide drawers at the bottom get an added cen-
ter guide, don’t tackle that until you’ve glued
the frames in place and made the drawers.
(continued on p. 39)
34
SH A K ER BL A N K ET C H ES T 35
1⁄4 in. Top detail
Door frame rail, 3⁄4 in.
thick by 1 3⁄4 in. wide
Cupboard Details
11⁄16 in.
The subtop and fixed shelf are cut back
to accommodate the face frame and
back assembly. The middle shelf also
acts as a stop for the lower edges Top rail, 3⁄4 in. thick
3 ⁄4 in.
of the doors. by 27⁄ 8 in. wide by
1313⁄16 in. long
Groove, 1⁄4 in. wide by

1⁄ 2
in. deep
Molding, Door
quarter-round,
1⁄4 in.
347⁄16 in.
Stiles,
76 in. Door 3⁄4 in.
4 in. panel, thick by

1⁄4 in. thick 27⁄ 8 in.
5 in.
by wide by
6 in. 11 5⁄16 in. 347⁄16 in.
wide by long
7 in. 233⁄16 in.
long
8 in.
Dovetail,
3⁄4 in.
42 in. 20 in. Knob, thick by
1 in. dia. 5 ⁄ 8 in.
wide
Web frame detail

Peg,
1⁄4 in. dia.
Dado, 3⁄4 in. wide
by 1⁄ 8 in. deep
Bottom rail,
3⁄4 in. thick by
33⁄4 in. wide by

Tenon,
1⁄4 1313⁄16 in. long
in. thick Drawer
Vertical divider,
by 3⁄4 in. 3⁄4 in. thick by divider,
wide by Tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick 3⁄4 in. thick
by 21⁄ 2 in. wide by 17⁄ 8 in. wide by
11⁄4 in. by 11⁄4 in.
21⁄4 in. long 101⁄ 2 in. long
long wide
Dovetail, 3⁄4 in. Drawers

Drawer back,
thick by 3⁄4 in. wide 3⁄4
in. thick
by 3⁄ 8 in. long
Drawer front,
3⁄4 in. thick
Knobs:
small, 1 in. dia.;
large, 1 3⁄16 in. dia.
Drawer bottoms: small, Drawer sides,
1⁄4 in. thick; large, 3⁄4 in. thick by
5 ⁄16 in. thick 18 5⁄ 8 in. long
Door stop, 3⁄ 8 in. thick by Top, 11⁄16 in. thick by 21 in. wide by 44 in. long,
11⁄4 in. wide with crown molding routed into 3 sides.
Back top rail, 5⁄ 8 in.

thick by 1 3⁄4 in. wide Back upper center stile,
Face-frame Shelf, 3⁄4 in. thick
by 411⁄ 2 in. long 5/8 in. thick by 4 in. wide
stile, Subtop, 3⁄4 in. thick by 18 in. wide by
3⁄4 in. thick by 185⁄ 8 in. wide by 401⁄ 2 in. long by 3213⁄16 in. long
by 43⁄16 in. 41 3⁄4 in. long Tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick

wide by 11⁄4 in. wide by
Rabbet, 1 3⁄4 in. long
5⁄ 8 in.
deep by
1⁄ 2 in. wide
Back stile, 5⁄ 8 in. thick
by 1 3⁄4 in. wide by
7415⁄16 in. long
Side, 3⁄4 in.

thick by
20 in. wide Grooves, 1⁄4 in. wide by
by 7415⁄16 in. in. deep
long
Back panel, 5⁄ 8 in.
Fixed shelf, thick by 103⁄4 in. wide
3⁄4 in. thick by by 323⁄4 in. long, with
18 5⁄ 8 in. wide a 1⁄4 -in.-thick by
1⁄ 2 -in.-long tongue
by 403⁄4 in.
long
Back center rail, 5⁄ 8 in.
411⁄ 2 in. long
Drawer guide, Back lower center stile,

3⁄ 8 in. thick by 5⁄ 8
in. thick by 4 in. wide
3⁄4 in. wide
by 317⁄16 in. long
Center stile, Back panel, 5⁄ 8 in. thick

3⁄4 in. thick by 103⁄4 in. wide by
by 21⁄4 in. 333⁄4 in. long, with a
1⁄4 -in.-thick by 1⁄ 2 -in.-long
wide
tongue
Back bottom rail, 1⁄ 2 in.

Frame rail, thick by 4 in. wide by
3⁄4 in. thick by 411⁄ 2 in. long
17⁄ 8 in. wide by
411⁄ 2 in. long Tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick by
31⁄ 2 in. wide by 1 3⁄4 in.
Drawer runner,
3 ⁄4 long
in. thick by
Drawer 11⁄ 8 in. wide 3⁄4 in.
stop
Glue 1 5⁄ 8 in.
Spline
block
Apron
Apron rail, detail
3⁄4 in. thick
Corner
by 1 5⁄ 8 in. block
wide
3 in.
Apron leg, 3⁄4 in. thick by
211⁄16 in. wide 31⁄ 2 in.
c l a ssic s t or age c u pboa r d 37

Make a solid face frame. Mortise-and-tenon Inset it. The face frame goes inside the sides of the piece, but overlays the subtop,
joints add strength and simplify assembly: One which is cut short to accommodate it. Make the frame just a bit larger than the
clamp will hold it together. Gluing the frame into opening, and trim the side pieces with a block plane to perfect the final fit. Apply
the case makes it completely rigid. clamp pressure from top to bottom, front to back, and along the sides.
Add the middle shelf and back. The fixed middle shelf (left) sits
on the web frame below it, sharing a wide dado in the case sides.
A dab of glue at the front and a finish nail through the top drawer
frame hold it in place. Keep the clamps on the face frame or allow
the glue to dry completely before adding the middle shelf. A frame-
and-panel back (above) adds rigidity and racking resistance. Fit it
and glue it into the rabbeted sides.
U-shaped face frame The back comes next. Because the back
is applied is captured in rabbets on the sides, I used
Once the rails and runners are in place, make 13⁄4 -in.-wide quartersawn cherry for the side
the face frame for the upper half of the stiles and the top rail. The bottom and center
cabinet. You can do one of two things: Use rails as well as the center stiles can be flat-
an applied face frame that butts against sawn and wider, for strength. The six panels
the inside edges of the sides or use a more are flat and flush inside and out. Use a block
complicated approach that involves notching plane to carefully fit the back so that it just
or mitering the side pieces on just the upper drops into the rabbet, and glue it in. Now
portion. I use the first, less complicated you can make and fit the doors (see p. 42).
method, which leaves the edge of the cabinet
sides exposed all the way to the top. This
requires careful wood selection to hide the
glue joint where the outsides of the frame
meet the sides of the carcase but saves time
How to fit wide drawers.
and effort because you don’t have to notch Careful fitting and smart stops
the carcase sides halfway or cut a stopped are the key to good-looking
miter on the sides and miter the face frames. drawers and a flush front. Size
the front to the opening. Leave
When the frame is glued in place, sand
a small gap at the top edge to
the entire face of the cabinet flush. Then glue allow for wood expansion. Then
the fixed middle shelf into place, sliding it in cut the dovetails and assemble
from the back and against the face frame. the drawer box.
Fit them individually. Start by rough-sanding

the pins flush and get the drawer to just fit the
opening (right). As you pull out the drawer, make
pencil lines where the sides rub and use those
lines as a guide to sand or plane the sides to an
exact fit (above).
c l a ssic s t or age c u pboa r d 39

Add stops for a flush front. All the drawers get a stop at both ends. Use a trim router resting on the front edge of the
drawer frames to cut shallow, 1 3⁄4 -in.-long by 3⁄ 8 -in.-wide grooves (left) for handmade stops. Then glue and clamp the
stops into the grooves (right).
Wrap up some details, make the tracks for the wide drawers to run
then tackle the drawers on. They are fitted, centered, and glued and
With the doors complete, most of the hard screwed to the front and center rails. Now
parts are finished. While the case is still drill a hole and insert a dowel into the drawer
open, use a handheld drill and jig (a simple back, centered exactly. Finally, test-fit each
piece of plywood with predrilled holes) to drawer and make adjustments.
drill holes on both sides of the upper section I finished the case with Tried & True Dan-
to accept pins for the adjustable shelves. Then ish oil. Once dry, I screwed in the drawer bot-
glue in the mitered, splined apron in the base toms, polished the brass hinges, and added
at the front. leather bumpers to the door and drawer stops.
Once the case is sanded, cut the top to size
and then run a cove profile around the front
and sides of the top on the router table. Screw
it to the subtop from the inside. Center Guides Keep Them in Line
Drawers are the last hurdle and the most Wide drawers have a tendency to bind, but this simple
dowel system keeps them running smoothly.
time-consuming. I cut half-blind dovetails in
the front and through-dovetails in the back,
Drawer
and I always cut the tails first. On the table-
saw, groove the front and the two sides for
the drawer bottoms. These grooves will help
align things when it’s time to transfer the tail
layout to the pin boards. On the wide drawers,
make sure to locate the grooves 3⁄4 in. from
the bottom to allow enough room for the
Drawer
center track. bottom is Dowel, 1⁄4 in. dia. by 1 in. Drawer guide has
After you complete the drawers, turn the notched for long, mounts in the bottom 1⁄4 -in.-wide by
dowel. of the drawer back. 5 ⁄16 -in.-deep groove.
knobs, glue them in place, and add drawer
stops to the fronts of the web frames. Next,
Make a groovy center
strip. The center guide is
simply a piece of wood with
a groove that runs straight
through.
Center a dowel on the drawer bottom. The author measures Use a stick to keep it on track. To keep the guide centered as
for the center to lock in the location and uses a doweling jig to you mark around it, use a notched stick at the front and then the
drill straight. back. Glue and screw the guide only to the front and back rails of
the web frames.
c l a ssic st or age c u pboa r d 41

The High Art of P h i l i P c . l ow e
the Lowboy
T
he Queen Anne lowboy is about many, in fact, that you’re almost guaranteed
as traditional as American to learn one or two new ones before you’re
furniture gets, but from a modern done. The piece combines a mortise-and-
perspective this 18th-century piece is still tenoned case with cabriole legs, dovetailed
highly practical. The lowboy can be used as drawers, and a tabletop with a hand-shaped
a dressing table or hall table, and the design edge profi le. A fan carving decorates the
has lost none of its elegance in the last center drawer.
300 years. I’ve modified some of the period construc-
For an intermediate woodworker looking tion details to build a case that will accom-
to grow as a craftsman, the lowboy is an ideal modate seasonal wood movement. It’s not an
project. It’s not overly big or complex, but it is exact reproduction, but it captures the spirit
a satisfying, high-level test of many skills; so of the early pieces.
70
Top, 7⁄ 8 in. thick
Mahogany Lowboy Center runners/kickers have 1⁄4 -in.-thick by by 18 in. wide by
3⁄4 -in.-long tenons wedged through the back.
This small piece lets you develop 32 in. long
your turning, joinery, and carving
skills and learn how to apply
an antique-looking finish.
Side runners/kickers are held in place

Back, 3⁄4 in. thick by Cleat for with pegs through the case back.
271⁄4 in. long by mounting top
Front tenons,
141⁄ 2 in. tall, with 1⁄4
3⁄4 -in.-long tenons in. thick by
1⁄4 in. long
Stop block
Front rails, 3⁄4 in.
thick by 1 5⁄ 8 in. wide
by 271⁄4 in. long
Dovetail,
3⁄4
in. long
Drawer
guide
Runners,
3⁄4in. thick by
21⁄4 in. wide
Notch Tenons,
Sides, 1⁄4 in. thick Vertical
end of side partitions,
3⁄4 in. thick
runners to by 3⁄4 in. long 3⁄4 in. thick by
by 141⁄4 in. fit legs. Blocking, Dovetail, 3⁄ 8 in. thick
long by 1⁄4in. thick 1 5⁄ 8 in. wide by by 3⁄4 in. wide by
141⁄ 2 in. tall 71⁄ 2 in. long 1⁄ 2 in. long
Front apron,
Tenons, 1⁄4 in. thick, Transition 3 ⁄4in. thick by
centered, by 3 in. wide block
21⁄ 2 in. wide by
by 7⁄ 8 in. long 271⁄4 in. long
Legs, 291⁄ 8 in. apron detaIL

long, cut from a
25⁄ 8 -sq.-in. block
21⁄ 2 in.
Collar, 1⁄ 8
in. thick by 11⁄4 in.
1 in.
1 3⁄16 in. sq. 253⁄4 in.
3⁄4 in. 1 5⁄ 8 in. 53⁄ 8 in. 1 in.

3 ⁄4 1⁄ 2 in. dia. 4 in.
in. Bottom, 1⁄ 2 in.
drawer detaIL
thick, beveled to fit
1⁄4 -in. groove
61⁄ 2 in.
1 3⁄ 8 in. dia.
21⁄ 8 in.
Front, 1 in. 71⁄ 8 in. 10 in.

drop fInIaL
thick, with 1⁄4 -in.
The pattern shown thumbnail profile Sides and back,
here is half size. on edges 1⁄ 2 in. thick
t h e h igh a rt of t h e l ow boy 71
Turn and Shape the Legs
The cabriole leg:
The legs take shape in two distinct stages. Start by laying out
and turning the pad foot. Then rough out the leg’s overall shape grace under pressure
at the bandsaw and refine it with chisel, rasp, file, and scraper. These cabriole legs are slender but balanced
and strong enough to support a heavy case
Support piece without stretchers. They also do more
spur
than just hold the case off the floor; their
The leg is shaped long top posts are an integral part of the case
from a blank
that’s 25⁄ 8 in.
itself. The case can’t go together until the legs
sq. by 301⁄ 8 in. are done, so let’s begin with the four legs.
long. The pattern
1 5⁄ 8 in. It’s most practical to turn the foot and cut
shown here
is 25% actual the mortises before sawing and shaping the
size. The extra curved cabriole profile. The first step is to
inch of length is
insurance against orient the leg blanks for the best figure.
131⁄ 8 in. turning mistakes. Mark the inside corners of each leg, then
147⁄ 8 in. trace the cabriole pattern on these two adja-
cent surfaces. On each leg, use a cutting
gauge to score a line defining the post block.
1 3⁄4 in.
Set the gauge to the dimension of the waste
1 3⁄ 8 in. to be cut away. Score these lines on the tops
of the legs, too; this helps keep the position
of the leg clear.
To lay out the turned foot, scribe a line
around the bottom of the blank to mark the
top of the foot. Draw center marks on the
two ends of the blank to locate the points of
the lathe centers for the offset turning.
Turning and mortising

At the lathe, use a parting tool to turn a
The foot is turned. Use a
parting tool to turn cylinders cylinder for the foot from the layout line to
291⁄ 8 in.
for the foot and pad, then use the end of the blank. Then turn a narrower
a skew chisel to create the cylinder at the very end of the blank to
quarter-round profile.
Support establish the pad at the bottom of the foot.
spur Next, use the point of a turning skew to score
a line where the square corners of the blank
21⁄ 2 in. dia. meet the cylinder, defining the top of the
3 ⁄4
foot. Use the skew to soften the hard corners
in.
1 3⁄4 in. dia. by
3⁄16 in.
of the square and then shape the foot by
rounding off the cylinder to a quarter-round.
Sand the foot while it is on the lathe.
Center point of the turned pad is
11⁄4 in. from the outside faces. Each leg is mortised on the two inside faces
to accommodate one case side and either
the solid back or the front apron and rails.
72 s i de b oa r d s a n d c o n s o l e s
Cut the curved profile. Rotate the blank and cut again. Save the
Start cutting the profile by first cutoff with the pattern drawn on it and tape it
defining the edge of the spurs. back in place to guide this second cut. The spurs
Then make cuts to complete will steady the leg for these subsequent cuts.
the basic profile.
Layout lines guide the shaping. Start with a
centerline on each face, then split the distance
from the centerline to the edge of the leg with
a line that runs from the knee to the ankle.
Shave away the remaining

Chamfer the corners to form an octagon. corners. Use a flat-soled
Use a flat chisel. To stay with the grain, always spokeshave to cut a second,
work from the convex surfaces to the narrower set of chamfers,
Smooth the surface. Finish rounding the profile
concave ones. effectively rounding the leg.
with a rasp and a smooth file.
Referencing from the top of each blank and

factoring in the extra inch, use a combination
square to mark the tops and bottoms of the
mortises. Use a cutting gauge and reference
from the inside corner of each blank to mark
the fronts and backs of the mortises. Cut the
mortises at the drill press or mortiser.
Saw and refine the shape

At the bandsaw, cut the leg’s curved profile
into one of the laid-out faces. Tape on the
waste piece at the back of the leg and cut
the other face. Be sure to save the long waste
piece sawn from the post. You can use this
Trim the post. Dimension the post block with a pair of stopped
material for transition blocks. Next, with
cuts on the tablesaw. These cuts are made to the right and left
the leg held in a bar clamp and vise, use a of the fence so the inside corner of the post block is against the
spokeshave to remove the bandsaw marks fence. The untrimmed waste just above the knee is removed
and smooth all four surfaces. after glue-up.
Lay out matching tenons. Clamp one of the front rails to Cut the joinery with a dado set. For consistency, cut face-side
the back panel and scribe the shoulder lines for both pieces tenon cheeks on all of the pieces before adjusting the setup (if
simultaneously. Clamp the scribed rail to its mates and scribe needed) to cut the opposite cheeks.
shoulders on the remaining pieces.
Mark out and cut the tenons. For the sides

and back panel, you need to fashion multiple
tenons from the full-width tongues. Hold each
panel against its mating post and scribe the
mortise locations on the tongue (above). Remove
the waste with a coping saw and chisel (right),
leaving a little room for the tenons to move in the
top and middle mortises. This allows room for
seasonal expansion of the sides and back toward
the top. The transition blocks prevent downward
expansion.
After cleaning up the cuts, finish shaping With the mortises already cut in the posts,
the leg by cutting a series of chamfers at the the next step is to lay out and cut the tenons
corners to round the profile. File the leg and on all of the mating pieces. I begin with the
scrape with a card scraper. Then trim the post back and the front rails. These pieces must
blocks and cut the posts to length. match exactly in overall length from tenon
shoulder to shoulder. This helps ensure that
Precise joinery the case comes together squarely and cleanly,
ensures a square case with no gaps.
Building the case is a challenge in precision. It’s also crucial to locate all of the tenons
There are no steps or reveals to mask correctly on the thickness of the stock so that
inaccuracies where the sides, back, or rails the outside case surfaces are flush with the
meet the corner posts. Everything is flush. posts when the joint is assembled. To do this
Mortise for the runners and kickers. The top Locate the kickers and runners. They are
rail is dovetailed into the tops of the leg posts. tenoned into the front rails and apron, and those
The author rabbets the tail to enhance accuracy mortises can be cut by machine, but the back
when transferring the layout. panel’s width means its mortises must be cut by
hand. The mortise locations are picked up from
the dry-fit front assembly (above) and marked on
both faces of the back panel. Use a 1⁄4 -in. chisel
to chop the through-mortises, working in from
each surface (right).
consistently, scribe the end grain for both

cheeks using the outside face as a reference
for your marking gauge. Set the gauge for
1⁄4 in. to scribe the outside cheeks and 1⁄ 2 in.
to scribe the inside cheeks.

To cut the cheeks, set the stock face-side
down on the tablesaw and raise a dado cutter
to just under the lower scribe line on the end
of the first workpiece. Adjust the rip fence for
1⁄ 32 in. less than the tenon’s length and use the
miter gauge to help control the workpieces.

For the intermediate front rail, use a 1⁄ 2-in.
dado stack to remove the waste from between
the twin tenons. Hold the piece vertically
against a miter gauge. Use a sacrificial backer
block and use the miter fence as a stop. Raise
the blade to just below the scribe line before
making the cut. Measure to locate the
At the workbench, use a shoulder plane to drawer partitions. The whole
fit the tenons to their mortises. To help keep case is dry-fit at this point
(above). The vertical drawer
the outer surfaces flush, avoid paring too
partitions are dovetailed into
much stock from either tenon cheek. After the top of the apron and the
paring to the shoulder lines with a chisel, bottom of the intermediate
cut the multiple tenons from the full-length rail. The clamp helps hold the
partitions in place while you
tongues on the back and side panels.
knife the profile on the front
Before you can start gluing up, you’ll need
surfaces of the apron and rail
to dovetail the top rail, then mortise the (left). Now disassemble the
front rails and the case back for the kickers case, saw the mortise, and
and runners that will support the drawers. chop and pare to fit.
Then, with the case dry-fit, locate and fit
Glue up the front and back.
Apply yellow glue to both
mortises and tenons. Once
each assembly is in clamps,
lay a straightedge across both
post blocks to make sure they
don’t twist out of square. On
the front assembly, check
the diagonal dimensions and
adjust the clamps to bring it
into square. Glue the partitions
in place after the front
assembly has dried.
the dovetailed vertical partitions. Finally, block to fit. When this is done, draw the pat-
bandsaw out the shape of the front apron and tern on the front and saw the front profile,
clean up the profile. saving the offcut. Now return to the bench,
hold the block in position again, and trace
Transition blocks the shape of the leg onto the surface of the
marry legs to case block that mates to the leg. To bandsaw this
Start building the case by gluing up the back profile, set the transition block back onto the
and front assemblies separately. The legs offcut and saw, staying 1⁄16 in. from the line.
transition into the case with blocks that are Glue the two front transition blocks in
glued on and shaped to match the curved place using a rub joint and hold them with
profile. It’s much easier to apply and shape a spring clamp if needed. Use a chisel, rasp,
the two blocks on the front apron now than and scraper to shape the blocks. The side
when the case is fully glued up. transition blocks are attached and shaped in
Begin by holding each block in position the same way, but are installed after the case
to see whether it is flat against the apron and has been glued up.
the back of the knee. If needed, plane the
Add the transition blocks.
The blocks are shaped in place.
After cutting the basic curves
in the bottom and front of the
block, glue it in place with
a rub joint (above left). With
the block in place, pare away
excess material to reach the
final, rounded shape. Start
with a chisel, making a series
of side-to-side passes (above
right). Then use a carving
gouge with a shallow profile
in a series of bottom-to-top
passes to blend the curve
further (left).
The final glue-up. Back and front assemblies are joined by gluing the side panels Wedge the tenons. The center runners are
into the rear posts, gluing the interior kickers and runners into their mortises in the secured in back with wedged through-tenons.
front, and then settling the front assembly into position. Glue the wedges and tap them home. When dry,
saw them off and plane them flush.
Dry-fit the case for layout them. On the center runners and kickers,
The next step is to add the sides without make handsaw cuts 1⁄4 in. from the edge and
glue and clamp the case snug so you can 1⁄4 in. from the shoulder to accept wedges for
accurately fit the crossmembers that span the the through-tenons in the back panel. The
interior. These are the runners that support left and right runners and kickers are
the drawers from underneath and the kickers notched to fit around the post blocks.
that sit above the drawers and prevent them
from tipping downward when pulled out. In 20 mortises, 20 tenons,
the space separating the upper and lower one glue-up
drawers, the crossmembers serve both of The case is ready to come together. With
these functions. Rip all of the runners and clamps ready, apply glue to the mortises
kickers and crosscut them to a little over in the back legs and to the corresponding
final length. tenons on the sides. Seat the sides. Next, glue
Measure from the back side of the apron the center runners and kickers into their
and middle rail to the inside of the back. Use mortises in front, then apply glue to the
a knife to mark these distances on the parts. front leg mortises and matching side tenons.
Cut the tenons with a dado blade and fit Gently lower the front into place, taking care
to seat the unglued tenons of the runners
Hand-Shaped Edge Profile
and kickers in the rear-panel mortises. Stand
the assembly upright and use bar clamps to 1⁄ 8 in. 1 in.
seat the joints. Before the glue sets, check
the diagonals for square. When all is square,
drive the wedges into the through-tenons at
1⁄4 in.
the back of the case. Clamp the side runners
in place, drill into them through the back,
and drive wooden pegs to secure them.
Drop finials adorn

the front apron No router in sight. Start by
In order to create a 1-in.-sq. platform for using a dado blade to cut a
1⁄ 8 -in.-deep rabbet. Then use a
each drop finial and collar, glue 1⁄4 -in.-thick
handplane to shape the profile
backer blocks to the rear of the 3⁄4 -in.-thick (left). A shoulder plane allows
front apron, matching the latter’s profi le. you to work all the way into the
Drill a 1⁄ 2-in.-dia. hole into the center of each corner (below).
platform and into two blanks for the collars.
Turn and sand the finials, including the
1⁄ 2-in.-dia. tenon.
To mark the size of the collar, slip it over

the finial’s tenon and insert the tenon into
the apron. Using a 3⁄ 32-in.-thick spacer held
against each edge of the platform, scribe a
line around all four sides of the collar. Hand-
saw to these lines and then clean up the edges
with a block plane. To create the bead, bevel
all eight edges, moving the piece across the
bottom of a plane, then refine the curve with
sandpaper. Last, glue the collar to the plat-
form and the finial into the apron.
Stain and shellac
Crowning touch: for a ﬂattering finish
a hand-shaped top I finished the piece with a water-based stain
The two-board top has a thumb-molding (Cuban mahogany from www. wdlockwood.
profi le that is characteristic for this period, com) and shellac. This approach evens out
and I enjoy creating it with hand tools. The variations in the color, shows the figure well,
top is fastened with screws through the front and yields a richer tone than the brassy color
rail, the two top kickers, and the cleat on the that natural mahogany sometimes has. Next,
top inside surface of the back panel. Elongate I applied dark grain fi ller to help show the
the screw holes in the back to accommodate pore structure and followed with a few more
movement. coats of shellac. The last step is to rub out the
finish with 0000 steel wool and apply a coat
of paste wax.
Arts and Crafts M ic h a e l P e kov ic h
on Display
S
imple is not always easy. Take Arts proportions, hardware choice, or finish, and
and Crafts furniture. Woodworkers the design falls down. I’ve been building Arts
fond of the style—with its beefy and Crafts furniture for a long time, and I’ve
parts, rectilinear lines, and exposed mortise- worked through the challenges in making a
and-tenon joinery—may think the furniture piece that’s true to the style.
is easy to make. But this simple form is This case piece is an original design, yet
unforgiving of mistakes. Make one slip-up in it would not be out of place in an antique
80
Full-Size Template
Simplifies the Sides
To cut matching mortises that align perfectly, make a full-size
template from 1⁄4 -in.-thick medium-density fiberboard (MDF). The
template is quick to make using a 3⁄ 8 -in. straight bit
on the router table.
Slot for mortises,
in. wide by 21⁄ 2 in. long
7⁄ 8
First cuts. Clamp stop blocks on both sides of the bit for the
stopped cuts. With the spacer in place (see the drawing below),
21⁄ 8 in.
plunge through the template and make one pass in the first
11⁄ 8 in. mortise slot. Just flip the template to do the opposite slot.
77⁄16 in.
Stop Blocks and a Spacer

Ensure an Accurate Template
1 in. 1 in.
Fence-to-bit distance: Top mortises, 1. Drop the template
25⁄ 8 in.; divider mortises, 715⁄16 in.; onto the bit and make
bottom mortises, 37⁄ 8 in. the first pass.
Spacer,
The outside dimensions 1⁄ 2
in. wide
of the template are 381⁄ 2 in.
the same as the case
sides. The template Stop
mortises are larger block to
than the case mortises bit,
to accommodate the 31⁄ 8 in.
guide bushing used
to rout them see
“Through-Mortises
without Mess-Ups”
on p. 84).
2. Flip the
template
and rout
151⁄ 8 in. the second
mortise.
33⁄ 8 in.
11⁄4 in.
21⁄4 in.
13 in.
Stickley catalog. With its quartersawn white

oak, exposed joinery, fumed finish, and
hand-hammered hardware, it breathes Arts Second cuts. After the first passes, remove the spacer between
and Crafts. The leaded-glass doors are typi- the fence and template and finish routing the mortise slots. Adjust
cal too and add to the handcrafted look. You the fence and repeat the process for each set of mortise slots.
can have panels made by a local artist or you
a rt s a n d c r a f t s on displ ay 81
Original Piece, Traditional Design
In Arts and Crafts furniture, it’s all about the wood and small details. The tight grain and magnificent ray fleck of quartersawn oak is
the primary ornamentation. To give the piece a solid feel without being clunky, the author varied the thickness of the parts. The sides
are a full 1 in. thick, the top and bottom are 7⁄ 8 in. thick, and the remaining interior dividers are 3⁄4 in. thick. Also, each piece is slightly
inset from the other, creating subtle shadow lines.
Tenon, 3⁄ 8 in. thick
Through-mortise, 5⁄ 8 in. Mortise, 1⁄4 in. wide by 1 3⁄ 8 in. long by 1 5⁄ 8 in. wide Rabbet,
wide by 21⁄4 in. long by 13⁄16 in. deep, inset 3⁄ 8 in. from by 11⁄ 8 in. long 3⁄ 8
in. wide
top and 5⁄16 in. from back. by 5⁄ 8 in.
Dado, 5⁄ 8 in. wide by Upper rail, deep
3⁄ 8 in. deep 7⁄ 8 in. thick by
21⁄ 2 in. wide by

101⁄ 8 in. long
21⁄4 in.
11⁄ 8 in. 411⁄16 in. Stile,

7⁄ 8 in. thick
Glass
by 21⁄ 2 in. stop,
wide by 3⁄ 8 in.
26 in. long sq.
Mortise, 5⁄ 8 in. wide
by 21⁄4 in. long by
13⁄16 in. deep
Rabbet, 5⁄ 8 in. wide

by 1⁄ 2 in. deep by
361⁄4 in. long Tenon,
3⁄ 8 in. thick
Shelf-pin holes, by 31⁄ 8 in. Lower rail, 7⁄ 8 in.

5 ⁄16 in. dia. by wide by thick by 4 in. wide
Inside face 1⁄ 2 in. deep 11⁄ 8 in. long by 101⁄ 8 in. long
of side
48 in.
15 in. 143⁄4 in.
41⁄ 2 in.
381⁄ 2 in.
18 in.
26 in.
31⁄ 2 in. 81⁄ 2 in.
Mortise, 1⁄4 in. wide by 1 3⁄ 8 in.

long by 13⁄16 in. deep, inset 1 in. 131⁄4 in. 123⁄ 8 in.
from front and 11⁄ 2 in. from bottom
33⁄ 8 in. 46 in.
Drawer dividers, Horizontal divider, Backsplash, Upper back detail
3⁄4 in. thick by 5 in. tall by 3⁄4 in. thick by 125 ⁄16 in.
7⁄ 8in. thick by Tenon,
1⁄4 in. thick by
121⁄4 in. wide, inset 1⁄4 in. wide by 471⁄ 2 in. long, 21⁄ 2 in. wide by Top
471⁄ 2 in. long 1 3⁄ 8 in. wide Backsplash
from case front inset 3⁄16 in. from
by 3⁄4 in. long
case front
Top, 7⁄ 8 in. thick by 127⁄8 in. Back

Dovetail key, 1⁄ 2 in.
Side, 1 in. thick wide by 483⁄8 in. long, inset wide by 1⁄4 in. long,
by 13 in. wide by 1⁄ 8 in. from case front
top and bottom
381⁄ 2 in. long
Rabbet,
5⁄ 8 in. wide by
1⁄ 2 in. deep
Shiplapped back slats, 3⁄ 8 in.

thick by 51⁄ 2 to 6 in. wide,
are screwed in place.
Pin,
5 ⁄16
in.
Lower dividers, Shelf dia. by
3⁄4 in. thick by
pins, 2 in. long
121⁄4 in. wide by 5 ⁄16 in.
261⁄ 2 in. long, dia. by

inset 1⁄4 in. from 1 in.
case front long
Shelf, 3⁄4 in.

thick, notched
for shelf pins
Hinge strip,
1⁄4 in. thick by
7⁄ 8 in. wide
by 26 in. long,
inset 1⁄4 in. from Stub tenon,
front edge 3⁄ 8 in. long
Bottom, Sliding dovetail stops

7⁄ 8
in. thick by 11⁄ 8 in. from front Rabbet,
1 in.
123⁄ 8 in. wide of case. 5 ⁄ 8 in.
by 483⁄ 8 in. long, wide by
inset 1⁄ 8 in. Apron, 3⁄ 8 in.
7⁄ 8 in. thick by
from case front Tenon,
Rear apron, deep
23⁄ 8 in. wide by 1⁄4 in. thick
7⁄ 8 in. thick
1
Groove ⁄4 in. sq., inset 471⁄ 2 in. long by 1 3⁄ 8 in.
Tenon, by 33⁄ 8 in.
3⁄ 8 in. from bottom wide by 5⁄ 8
3⁄4 in. long in. thick wide by
by 21⁄4 in. Lower back detail
471⁄4 in.
wide by long Bottom
1 3⁄16 in. long Back
Drawer
front,
7⁄ 8 in.
thick Bottom, 3⁄ 8 -in.-thick pine,

rabbeted to fit groove Rear
Drawers are apron
Sides and back,
inset 5⁄16 in. from 5 ⁄ 8 -in.-thick beech
case front.
Through-Mortises without Mess-Ups
5 ⁄ 8 -in.-dia. guide Template
bushing
3⁄ 8 -in. bit 13⁄16 in.
Start on the inside face.

To make it easier to hold the
workpiece and template, the author
uses an elevated clamping table. A
bushing guides a spiral upcut bit.
1⁄ 2 -in. bearing-guided bit
The Paolini trick. To complete

the through-mortises with no
tearout, the author uses a trick he
learned from Greg Paolini. Drill a
hole through each mortise (right),
flip over the piece, insert a bearing-
guided bit in the hole, and rout out
the remaining waste (far right).
Fences
1⁄ 2 -in. 3⁄ 8
T I P Place tape over the divider
bearing-guided bit in.
mortises so you don’t drill through
Connect the slots.
them accidentally.
To rout the shallow dadoes that
connect the through-mortises,
clamp fences on both sides of the
mortises and use a top-bearing-
guided bit.
Two-part tenons. The dado blade does most of the work. After cutting the tenon Saw off the stub tenon. Use the bandsaw to
cheeks and shoulders with a dado set, cut the through-tenons to width, using a tall cut the stub tenons to length. The fence ensures
fence to support the board. The scrapwood behind the tenons backs up the cut and a parallel cut.
reduces tearout.
can make them yourself. If you are interested The through-tenons are prominent fea-
in building in this style, I hope you’ll find a tures of the design, so you must get them
few valuable lessons here. Also, this piece is right. For clean cuts and no gaps, I fitted the
a versatile one: I designed it to hold books router with a guide bushing and straight bit
and cherished items, but it could work as a and cut the mortises using a full-size tem-
sideboard, too. plate (see “Through-Mortises without Mess-
When building an Arts and Crafts piece, Ups” and photos on the facing page). Then I
the most important step is to choose good cut the dadoes between mortises for the stub
wood. The tight grain and magnificent ray tenons. Finally, I squared up the mortises
fleck of quartersawn oak is the primary orna- with a chisel.
mentation, so don’t skimp on the lumber. I To cut the remaining mortises for the
found some great boards online that I supple- backsplash and the lower apron, attach a
mented with lumber from a local yard. fence to the router and use a spiral upcut bit.
With a large project like this, I start from Then square them with a chisel.
the outside and work my way in because it’s Once the mortises have been cut, cut out
easier to build the case first and fit the inte- the foot recess and profile the tops of the
rior dividers after. The top and bottom of the sides. Clean up the cuts with a block plane, a
case attach to the sides with through-tenons. spokeshave, and files. The last task is to drill
To help keep the case square and the wide holes for the tenon pins. For this, I used a
boards flat, I added a stub tenon between the doweling jig to help keep the bit aligned.
through-tenons.
Use a fence to guide the slot cuts. To ensure that the dovetail slots are parallel, clamp a medium-density fiberboard (MDF) fence to the
workpiece to steer the router’s guide bushing.
Remove the waste. Drill a

Sliding Dovetails 1⁄ 2 -in.-dia. hole at the stopped
Made Easy end, then rough out the slot

using a 1⁄4 -in. straight bit. The
5 ⁄ 8 -in.-dia. 1⁄4 -in. piece of MDF opposite
guide bushing
the fence prevents the router
from tipping.
1⁄4 in.
1⁄4 -in. straight bit Final cut. Use a 1⁄ 2 -in. dovetail

bit to finish the slot. The hole
at the end of the slot lets you
drop the bit into the cut before
turning on the router. The hole
will be hidden by the divider.
1⁄ 2 -in. dia. 14º dovetail bit
Glue-up without screw-ups. The case glue-up
involves eight pieces. That many solid parts can
be a pain to assemble and align during a single
glue-up. So assemble the piece in stages. Start
with the backsplash and apron first. Dry-fit the
case to ensure proper alignment when gluing
the backsplash and apron to the case top and
bottom. These parts will help keep the case
square in the later stages.
Top, bottom, and sides.

Use grooved clamping cauls
over the through-tenons to get
pressure where it’s needed
(far left). Place the case on
T-supports to make clamping
easier (left). Be sure to keep
glue off the ends of the
through-tenons.
Crosspieces must line up the stub tenons to length using a bandsaw.

shoulder to shoulder Once you’re sure everything is fitting well,
Now it’s time to cut the tenons on the top, trim the through-tenons to their final length
the bottom, the horizontal divider, the and chamfer their ends.
backsplash, and the apron. These parts have Now rout the slots for the stopped sliding
three different tenon lengths among them, dovetails that connect the vertical dividers
but they all have the same shoulder-to- to the top, the bottom, and the horizontal
shoulder length. To ensure the case remains divider. Then cut the rabbets in the sides and
square, it is critical to get this dimension top for the back panel.
exactly right.
To help, I use a trick I learned from con- Assembly: keep it square
tributing Fine Woodworking editor Steve It’s critical that the case remains square as
Latta. Cut the parts all the same length, and you assemble it. Otherwise, you’ll be fighting
then cut the tenon shoulders using the same to fit the doors and drawers. To simplify the
setting on the tablesaw. Test the fit, and then glue-up and to help keep the case square, I
trim the through-tenons to width. Next, cut first glued the backsplash and apron to the
Long sliding dovetails with no binding. The trick is to slide in
the dividers from the back almost all the way without glue, leaving
about 2 in. exposed, and then apply glue to that exposed end and
into the slot at the front. Now you can drive the divider home with
a mallet.
Vertical dividers. After cutting the dividers to length, use the

Build the drawers and doors
dovetail bit to cut the keys. A tall fence supports the long boards With the case glued up, it’s time to build and
and a featherboard keeps the piece snug against the fence. fit the drawers and doors. All three drawer
fronts are cut from one board for continuous
grain and color. Original Stickley pieces
typically use white oak for the drawer sides as
case top and bottom, respectively. Then I well, but I chose beech because of its dense,
glued up the sides, top, and bottom. fine grain.
After the glue is dry, drill holes though the The doors are rabbeted for simple leaded-
tenons and dry-fit the pins. Cut the pins to glass panels. I wanted them to be inset 5⁄16 in.
length and chamfer the exposed end of the from the front of the case, which means I
pins before gluing them in. couldn’t hinge them directly to the case sides.
Once the case is assembled, cut the vertical So I added 1⁄4 -in.-thick hinge strips to the
dividers to length and rout the dovetail keys inside of the case, inset 1⁄4 in. from the front
on the ends, using the same dovetail bit used edge. The strips provide clearance for the
to rout the slots. After installing the dividers, doors to open and it’s easy to cut the hinge
cut and fit the shiplapped back panels. mortises before installing them.
Fumed Finish Made Easy
Fuming wood involves exposing it to ammonia fumes, which react with tannins in the oak to darken its color.
The longer the wood is exposed, the darker it becomes.
Most people build a complicated tent to house the workpiece and contain the ammonia fumes. But I just
drape plastic sheeting over the piece. It works as well as the tent and makes it easier to take the cover off the
ammonia once it’s safely inside. The sheeting also makes it easy to remove sample blocks to check the finish.
Though my method is low-tech, I still treat the ammonia carefully because it’s a toxic chemical that can dam-
age your lungs, skin, and eyes. Be sure to set up the fuming area in a low-traffic, well-ventilated area. Wear
goggles and gloves when you’re pouring it, and be sure to wear gloves when you take the lid off the container
once it’s under the plastic. Also, when you remove the sheeting, it’s a good idea to run a fan in the space to help
ventilate the area. The good news is that the fumes dissipate quickly.
Respirator not required.

Drape plastic sheeting over
the piece as a tent. Then put
the ammonia in a covered
container and slide it under
the tent. Wear gloves when
you reach under the cover to
remove the lid.
How to dial in the

color. The effect
won’t be apparent Warm it up. Fuming imparts a greenish-
until finish is applied, gray cast to the wood. The author warmed
so it’s a good idea to up the look with a coat of garnet shellac
throw in a few sample before applying Waterlox. He rubbed
blocks, remove them out the finish with steel wool and brown
at hour intervals, and wax made from melting Kiwi brown shoe
wipe on some finish polish into paste wax using a double-
to preview the final effect. boiler setup.
Details that would make (for details, see “Fumed Finish Made Easy”
Stickley proud above).
No matter how true you are to the Arts and After fuming, I warm up the wood with
Crafts ideals when you build a piece, you a coat of garnet shellac. Then I switch to
can kill the design if you choose the wrong Waterlox®, a wipe-on tung oil varnish. The
hardware or mess up the finish. For this last step is to rub out the finish with steel
piece, I chose traditional hand-hammered wool and apply a dark wax. This fills the open
hardware (the hinges were from Horton pores of the oak and pops the rays.
Brasses www.horton-brasses.com, part Now screw on the back slats, add the glass
no. PB-409B) and fumed the wood before panels to the doors, install the traditional
applying a topcoat. Fuming may intimidate hardware, and the piece is ready for your
people, but I’ve developed a low-tech method living room.
90
The Versatile g a r r e t t h ac k
Huntboard
T
he huntboard is a wonderful I want potential bidders to see what they
furniture form, a relaxed country need—a sideboard in this case—but I also
cousin to the more formal and think my work could have many lives beyond
high-style sideboard. It’s essentially a tall the one I design for. This piece would be at
serving table, with drawers and doors for home serving as a desk or a display table in a
storage of dinnerware. I’ve long admired foyer or hallway.
the form, so for one year’s annual auction The focus of my design is the three central
of the New Hampshire Furniture Masters, drawers, with flanking doors adding a sense
I decided to design and build a cherry of balance. The case itself is deep and tall
huntboard. and is engineered to withstand the weight of
Typically, when designing furniture, my a collection of flatware and dinnerware. It’s
first thoughts are about form, proportion, also designed to withstand seasonal wood
shape, and detail. But versatility also can be movement.
an influence, especially for speculative work.
Start with the legs.

Leg Tapers The foot of each leg is
highlighted with a cuff-
banding inlay and a
secondary taper that give
the piece a light, elegant
appearance. After cutting 1
Upper portion
tapers from the the primary tapers on
base of the apron the bandsaw, miter and
to the cuff. glue in the cuff-banding
sections (1). Cut the
secondary taper on all
four sides, staying well
clear of the cuff. Refine Assembly note.
2
the taper with a The huntboard glue-up is
Secondary handplane. Make guide complex. It’s easiest to start
taper begins
marks just below the cuff by assembling the side aprons
just below the
cuff. (2) and at the toe of the and the legs. But glue only
foot, then plane until the front legs in place at this
both marks are gone (3). stage—you’ll need to remove
the rear legs for a later step
3 (see p. 95).
91
Shelf, 5⁄ 8 in. thick by
Stylish Huntboard 9 in. wide, sits in
1⁄4 -in.-deep groove.
For a calm appearance, the primary wood is
quartersawn cherry. To add interest and contrast,
the door panels are flame birch, with African
blackwood pulls and Gabon ebony beading.
Top and bottom rear

rails, 13⁄16 in. thick by
31⁄ 8 in. wide
Partitions connect to the
bottom board with sliding
dovetails, 5⁄ 8 in. wide by
5 ⁄16 in. long.
Panel tenon,
3⁄ 8 in. thick by
1⁄4 in. long
Back panel, 13 ⁄16 in.

thick by 71⁄4 in. wide
Splines,
3⁄16 in.
thick by
1⁄ 2 in.
wide, float
in their
grooves. Dividers,
Stiles, 1⁄ 2 in. thick
Front rail
Bottom board, (see detail on
7⁄ 8 in. by 2 in. wide
Side white pine, facing page) thick by
7⁄ 8 in. thick
panels, 11⁄16 in.
13⁄16 in. Top and wide
bottom side
thick by Legs, 393⁄16 in. long,
rails, 13⁄16 in.
71⁄4 in. taper from 17⁄16 in. Case interior
thick by
wide at top to 9⁄16 in. at
31⁄ 8 in.
Rail tenons, bottom. Partitions, Wedge
wide 3⁄ 8 in. thick 3⁄4 in. thick
Tenon,
by 1 in. long 3⁄ 8 in. thick
Top kicker,
Bottom side rail 1⁄ 2 in. thick by 1⁄ 2 in. long
by 11⁄ 8 in.
Bead,
3⁄16 in. dia. wide
Side panel
Guide,
1⁄4 in. thick
Spline Stile
by 13⁄16 in.
Groove for wide
bottom board, Bottom side rail
1⁄4 in. deep by Runner,
1⁄ 2 in. thick
Tenon,
5 ⁄ 8 in. wide 1⁄4in. thick
by 11⁄ 8 in.
by 3⁄16 in.
wide
long, fits into
Bottom board Tenon, divider.
5⁄ 8 in. thick by 3⁄4 in.
3⁄ 8
Tongue, in. thick by 1⁄4 in. long Divider long, fits into stile.
Fitting a critical joint.
The front stretcher is
rabbeted and dovetailed
Stretcher, 1⁄ 2 in. thick to the legs and side
by 27⁄16 in. wide by aprons to help stabilize
451⁄ 8 in. long the case against
Front rail racking forces. Begin by
marking the shoulders
Bottom 1⁄ 8 in. of the rabbet with the
board
case dry-assembled
Front (top). Cut the stepped
rail rabbet using a backsaw
and chisels, then saw
Spline, the dovetails (middle).
3⁄16 in. thick by Bead, Set the stretcher in
1⁄ 2 in. wide 3⁄16 in. place and scribe for the
dia.
dovetail housings in the
leg and apron (bottom).
Bottom, 5⁄16 in. thick, is beveled around
the edges and screwed to the back.
Drawer fronts, 5⁄ 8 in. thick, with

Sides, 1⁄ 8 -in.-dia.
bead on top and
3⁄ 8 in. thick bottom edges
521⁄ 2 in. 181⁄4 in.

46 in. 157⁄ 8 in.
3 in. 31⁄ 8 in.
121⁄ 8 in. 33⁄ 8 in. 11 5⁄ 8 in. 71⁄4 in.

41⁄4 in.
1 3⁄ 8 in. 31⁄ 8 in.
21⁄4 in.
40 in. 13 in.
Taper begins Cuff,
5 ⁄ 8 in.
111⁄ 2 in. 18 in. 133⁄4 in. from
top of leg. wide
431⁄ 8 in.
7⁄ 8 in. sq.
41⁄ 2 in.
9⁄16 in. sq.
t h e v er sat i l e h u n t boa r d 93
Shape the legs will open during the dry winter months, I
and add the banding cut beads in the center panel where it meets
In designing the legs of the huntboard, the rails (see “Bottom Side Rail” on p. 92).
I used a full-size mock-up to help me gauge The most accurate way to cut the tenons
where they needed refining. After all, visual and shoulders on the three parts of each
strength is just as important as actual apron is to dry-assemble them with the
strength. Once I completed the mock-up, I splines and cut them all at once, holding the
used it to lay out and cut the real legs as well pieces together with masking tape. Clean
as to lay out the cuff banding and mortises. up the shoulders with a shoulder plane, then
Cut the legs on the bandsaw and refine the take apart the assembly and trim the center
shape with handplanes. panel tenons down to 1⁄4 in. long. Now,
After cutting all of the mortises and the cut the miters and haunches in the longer
primary taper in the legs, install the cuff tenons of the rails. Finally, cut a groove in
banding. Although you can make your own the bottom rail to accept the tongue of the
custom banding, ready-made banding is bottom board.
available (www.vandykes.com, www.wood-
craft.com, and www.rockler.com). Cut the Fit the front rail
dadoes that house the banding using either a and stretcher
router or hand tools. Each section of banding When the aprons have been fitted, it’s time to
is mitered using a 45° guide block and chisel; cut, shape, and fit the bottom front rail. Also,
the block is also used to miter the door bead- cut the slot in the rail for the spline that
ing. After the banding is glued in place, level connects it to the bottom board, and scratch
the sections with a block plane, then plane a the bead along the bottom edge.
tapered toe from the cuff to the floor. The front stretcher is dovetailed into the
top of the front legs and into the top of both
Assemble the side side aprons just behind the legs (see the
and rear aprons photos on p. 93). For accuracy, dry-assemble
One of the most challenging aspects of the case and place the rail in position. Lay
this design is planning for the inevitable out the location of the shoulders and dove-
seasonal movement of the 131⁄ 2-in.-wide tails and then cut them. Place the rail back in
aprons. Cherry boards that wide will move position, mark the dovetail housings, then
significantly, increasing the potential rout and chop them out. Finally, cut the mor-
for cracking the case, opening a gap where tises for the two kickers of the top drawer
they meet the top, and pinching a drawer into the back edge of the stretcher. Also, cut
or a door. the mortises for the knife hinges in the
A simple and attractive solution is to make stretcher and the bottom front rail.
each apron in three parts: a top and bottom
rail and a center panel, joined with cherry
splines but no glue. The tenons of the rails are
glued into the legs, while the stub tenons of
the panel float in their mortises. As a decora-
tive element, and to disguise small gaps that
Attach the front rail to the Glue the drawer stiles and dividers to the Slide in the interior partitions from the
bottom. Glue the spline into front rail. Assemble the stiles and dividers, then back. Glue will help the tapered pins slide.
the bottom board, then add fit them into the front rail as a unit. Clamp the partitions, then let the glue dry
the front rail. Be sure all of before going any further.
the joinery lines up before
clamping.
Attach the case to the rear assembly. After gluing the front legs and side aprons to the case, slide the shelf into position and drop the
carcase into place.
Add the top stretcher and kickers. With the
case upright on the floor, install the stretcher.
This is tricky because you have to glue in the
kickers for the top drawer at the same time.
The stiles of the drawer frame are tenoned into
the stretcher. Drive wedges into the tenons, then
screw the stretcher to the interior partitions.
Thick stock and solid joinery To cut the dovetail slots in the bottom board,
create a stiff structure dry-fit the face-frame assembly and the bot-
With a huntboard, it’s possible that many tom rail. Connect the bottom board with the
heavy items will be stored in the drawers and spline and mark out the dovetail-slot locations.
compartments. To make the case quite stiff Remove the bottom board and cut the slots.
and sturdy, the bottom board and the top are Clamp a fence to the board and remove most of
thick, and strong joinery in the face frame the waste with a straight bit. Then finish with a
and interior partitions helps tie the top and 5⁄8-in. dovetail bit. Taper the slot by shifting one
bottom together. end of the fence over by about 1⁄16 in. and then
The face frame and the drawer runners and running the dovetail bit through the cut again.
dividers are joined with mortises and tenons Use a router table when cutting the dovetail
while the interior partitions connect to the pins in the partitions. Be sure to leave the parti-
bottom board with sliding tapered dovetails tions long for now, as trial and error is the only
(the slots and pins are wider at the back and way to set the pin cut for a perfect sliding fit. I
narrower toward the front). Tapered dovetails use a side rabbeting plane to taper the pins to
ease assembly but still provide a strong me- fit, though you also could use a paring chisel.
chanical joint.
Jig creates perfect bead stock. The jig is a piece
of 1⁄ 2 -in.-thick plywood with two fences spaced the
width of a block plane. The plane rides on identical
shims, ensuring uniform thickness. A brad in front of
the beading holds it in place.
for the buttons that secure the top as well

as the mortises in the rear apron for the
two top-drawer kickers. Once you’re sure
everything is fitting nicely, get ready for
the glue-up.
There are a lot of pieces to put together
here, so to make the job easier, assemble the
Build doors and drawers case in steps. After the case is glued up, cut
after glue-up the top to final dimensions, shape the under-
When all the partitions have been cut and beveled edge, and secure it in place with but-
fitted, dry-assemble the piece, then lay out tons and screws.
and cut the slots in the partition and side Finally, after building the doors, assem-
apron for the shelf that’s tucked behind one bling the drawers, and turning and installing
door. Also, lay out and cut all the mortises the knobs, the piece is ready for finishing.
Glue the beading to the frame. The beading
should be proud of the outside of the frame.
Use plenty of clamps and a caul to ensure a
good bond.
Simple jig for perfect miters. Clamp a 45° guide block to the frame members and
chop the beading to length.
Doors Feature Contrasting Beading
Top rail and outside stiles,

1 3⁄ 8 in. wide
Panel,
1⁄ 2 in. thick
Center stile, 7⁄ 8 in. wide
Frame stock,
3⁄4 in. thick Panel groove,
Beading, 1⁄4 in. deep
3⁄ 32 in. thick
by 1⁄4 in. wide
by 5⁄16 in. Bevel,
wide 11⁄4 in. wide
Bottom rail,
21⁄ 8 in. wide
Tenons,
3⁄ 8 in. thick
by 1 in. long Rabbet, 1⁄ 8 in. deep

Wood peg by 1⁄4 in. long
Scratch the Bead
Cutter
Cutter fence
Run a simple scratch stock along the

beading. You’re done when the cutter just starts
to bite into the frame.
Cut the panel grooves,

then assemble the door.
Cutting the grooves after the
beading is applied ensures a
flush fit between panel and
beading. Trim the horns after
the glue dries.
Nothing beats rubbing it out between coats with 0000 steel

the dazzle of shellac wool. A final ghosting with a rag with just
To bring out the rich color of the cherry, vapors of alcohol leaves a beautifully smooth
I started with a light coat of oil/varnish. finish. A topcoat of wax is the final and
Once dry, I padded on many layers of orange renewable protective finish.
shellac (1-lb. cut) using a clean cotton rubber,
Wall Cabinet M at t h e w T e ag u e
in Cherry
M
ost every home has a narrow
wall—usually at the end of a
hallway or beside an entry
door—where nothing seems to fit. This piece
was designed for such a space. I keep tall
vases in the cabinet and candles in the lower
drawer, but it can be adapted easily to all
sorts of needs. Add a few drawers, and you
have a good spot for sewing supplies. With
more shelves, this piece makes a handsome
spice cabinet; the lower drawer is perfect for
storing teas or loose spices.
Instead of using elaborate moldings, raised
panels, or an arched door, this cabinet design
highlights the basic joinery that is the stan-
dard in quality woodworking. Traditional
dovetail joinery holds the case together,
while sliding dovetails lock the shelves into
place. The door is a simple frame-and-panel
assembly, but I chose bridle joints instead of
traditional mortises and tenons because the
exposed joinery complements the through-
dovetails on the case. Instead of cutting a
raised or fielded panel, I opted for the clean
look of a flat panel.
An efficient method for

dovetailing the carcase
I cut the dovetails with a combination
of traditional methods and power tools.
The tails are cut first, using a 1⁄ 2-in. by 14°
dovetail bit and a shopmade sled that is run
against a fence on the router table. The first
and last pins should be inset about 3⁄ 8 in.
118
Cherry Cabinet
The small size of this project makes it ideal for practicing dovetails and learning a quick and handsome frame-and-panel joint.
Cleat, 3⁄ 8 in. thick by Top and bottom, 1⁄ 2 in. thick by 61⁄ 2 in.
21⁄ 2 in. wide by 10 in. long wide by 11 3⁄4 in. long
Door panel, 1⁄ 2 in. thick

with 1⁄4 -in. rabbet
Rabbet,
3⁄ 8
in. wide
by 5⁄ 8 in.
deep
Hanging Butt
bracket, hinge
45° bevel
Back,
1⁄4in. Sliding
thick dovetail
Sides,
1⁄ 2 in.
thick by
51⁄4 in.
wide by
301⁄4 in.
long
Shelf,
1⁄ 2 in.
Backer strip, thick by

3⁄ 8 in. thick 45⁄ 8 in.
by 3⁄ 8 in. wide
wide
21⁄ 2 in.
Dovetails
Pins
61⁄ 2 in. 11 3⁄4 in.
Drawer side, 1⁄ 2 in. Drawer front,

thick by 27⁄16 in.
1⁄ 2 in. thick by Rail,
5⁄ 8
in. thick
wide by 45⁄ 8 in. long 27⁄16 in. wide by Walnut
10 5⁄ 8 in. long knob by 21⁄4 in.
Drawer back, wide
1⁄ 2in. thick by 1⁄4 -in. walnut
301⁄4 in. 17⁄ 8 in. wide by
Drawer bottom, dowel pin
10 5⁄ 8 in. long 1⁄4 in. thick by
Stiles,
43⁄ 8 in. wide by 3⁄4 in. thick by
101⁄ 8 in. long
1 5⁄ 8 in. wide
wa l l c a bi n et i n c h er ry 119
Lay out the tail centerlines. A single line is all that’s needed
to mark the tail centerlines (above). On the tablesaw, use the
miter gauge with a tall auxiliary fence to make a sawcut at each
centerline (right).
Mark the pins with the tails. Use a marking knife to scribe the
pin lines on the ends of the top and bottom.
Cut the dovetails on the ends of the case sides. Using the Hand saw the pin lines. With the knife lines as a reference, use
router table equipped with a dovetail bit and a sled to support the a dovetail saw to cut along each pin line.
stock, the author cuts the dovetails in short order.
120 wa l l c a bi n e t s
Rout away the waste. After clamping a backer
block flush with the top edge of the top or
bottom piece, use the router and a straight bit
to cut close to the dovetail-saw cut lines.
Trim the excess. After routing, a thin web of

wood sometimes remains in the pin. Use a chisel
to remove the web and shave away excess stock
as needed.
bit to remove in one pass, so I remove a little

at the tablesaw first. Holding the stock up-
right against the miter gauge or crosscut sled,
I take a single pass split on each centerline at
the tablesaw. The rest of the stock is cut with
a single pass through the router bit. Be sure
that you clamp the stock to the sled before
routing, but don’t worry if the tail spacing is
slightly irregular; any irregularities in the
work will actually do a better job of mimick-
ing traditional hand-cut joinery.
To start cutting pins, use a marking gauge
Test the fit. Good-fitting dovetail joints should go together with
only moderate hand pressure or a little persuasion from a mallet.
set to the thickness of the sides and mark
both ends of the top and bottom to establish
the baseline of the dovetails. Clamp the pin
stock in the vise, align the ends squarely, and
from the ends, with the other three pins use a marking knife to mark out the pins
spaced evenly between them. from the tails. Then trace all the cut lines
Using this cutting method, you need only with a pencil so that they will be easier to see
mark the centerline of the cuts and set the when cutting. Saw the pins by hand, then
router bit to the exact height of the mating clean up the excess stock with a router set to
stock. This is a lot of material for the router cut as deep as the top and bottom are thick.
Sliding dovetails are easy on a router table.
The router table and a single dovetail bit are
used to cut the dovetail grooves in the sides and
the dovetail on each end of the shelves.
Create the groove. Cut

No Need to Change the dovetail groove with the
case side flat on the table.
the Bit Height
Use a pusher board to feed
The router-bit height is the same no matter
the workpiece and to keep it
if you are cutting the dovetail groove in a
side or the dovetail on the ends of a shelf. square to the fence (above).
Position the shelves vertically
Routing the case against the fence to cut the
tails (left).
Case side
1⁄4 in.
Routing the shelves
Fence Shelf
To rout out the bulk of the waste and
establish a baseline for the tails, use a simple
right-angle jig or large backer block clamped
1⁄4 in.
to the end of the stock; the block is used to
help register the base of the router as you
remove the waste.
Once the pins are cut, you’ll probably need
to trim a little here and there. It’s best to trim
the pins instead of the tails, which have a ten-
dency to split as you pare them to size. Once
trimming is complete, the pins and tails
should fit together with firm hand pressure on the case. Use a piece of test stock and ad-
or a few light mallet taps. just the fence in small increments to sneak up
If you’ve got the hinges in hand, go ahead on a good fit.
and mortise the sides of the case to accept the When you’re satisfied with the fit, rout
hinges. You could do this later by hand, but each side of the two shelves and slide the
it’s easier to do now with a router. shelves into place. A drop of glue at the front
and back of each shelf—applied as the shelf
Sliding dovetails slides into the dovetail grooves—is all
secure the shelves you need.
At this point, you’re ready to cut the sliding
dovetails that hold the shelves. Again, start Rabbet the case
by marking out the centerlines of the shelf to accept the back
locations on the case sides. It’s a good idea After the case is glued up, I use a rabbeting
to remove a little of the stock at the tablesaw bit on the router table to cut a 3⁄ 8-in.-wide
before routing. by 5⁄ 8-in.-deep rabbet around the back of the
case. To minimize the chance of splintering,
Cut the dovetail grooves first, stop the cut just short of each corner, then
then assemble the case complete the rabbet with a bench chisel.
Because this is such a small cabinet, I cut the Also, it’s best to take about three light passes
dovetail grooves on the router table. Use the instead of trying to hog off all the stock in
same bit you used to dovetail the carcase. one pass.
Position the bit in the router table so that The back is nothing more than a 1⁄4 -in.-
about 1⁄4 in. is exposed, and use a square thick panel glued and brad-nailed to the cen-
backer board. The pusher board not only ter of the top, bottom, and shelves. The back
holds the case sides square to the fence, it must be free to expand and contract with
prevents tearout as you rout the tails. Once changes in humidity, so limit the glue to an
the dovetail grooves are cut on the case sides, area about 2 in. wide. Small strips of 3⁄ 8-in.-sq.
you can assemble the case. Be sure to glue stock are glued to the sides of the rabbets on
it on a flat surface. After the clamps go on, the back of the case to secure the panel.
double-check to make sure the assembly
is square. Mount case to wall with cleats
I used a simple two-piece cleat to hang the
Cut the shelves to length and cabinet (see “Cherry Cabinet,” on p. 119).
rout the dovetails on each end When the cabinet is hung, the pieces
With the case assembled, mark the shelf interlock for a tight fit against the wall.
length directly from the case. Measure for a Attach one piece to the cabinet so that it
snug fit. Use the router table to cut the tail butts against the underside of the case top.
on each end of each shelf. There’s no need to Use a couple of screws spaced about 21⁄ 2 in.
change the height setting from the dovetail- apart and drive them into the back edge of
groove cut made earlier in the case sides. the cabinet top. Apply a coat of glue between
Adjust the router fence so that only a small the screws.
edge of the bit is exposed. Rout the tails on
the ends by taking a pass on each face using
the same jig you used to rout the dovetails
Quick door frames on the tablesaw. With
each stile and rail connected by a unique version
of the mortise-and-tenon called a bridle joint,
the door frame enjoys plenty of strength and
good looks. To start, cut the tenon shoulders
on the rails. After grooving the frame members
and mortising the stiles, use the tablesaw to
establish the tenon length on each rail.
Add the shelves. After the case is glued and

clamped, the shelves are slid into the grooves.
For easier assembly, the author applies glue to
the back half of the grooves and the front half of
the dovetails.
Shadow lines make the panel to the center of both rails. Add a
a simple door interesting few drops of glue to the mortises, then slide
To build the door, the frame is grooved first the stiles into place on the rails and panel.
at the tablesaw and then the joinery is cut on Once the door is together, pegging the
the tablesaw using a tenoning jig. The jig can joints will strengthen the assembly and help
be either aftermarket or shopmade. I cut the frame the cabinet visually. For contrast, I
open mortises on the stiles first, then cut the used 1⁄4 -in. walnut dowel pins. To add the
rail tenons to fit. pegs, simply drill a 1⁄4 -in.-dia. hole just shy
When the joinery has been cut, plane of the door thickness, then tap a length of
down the front face of the rails an extra 1⁄ 8 in. dowel into the hole. The excess can be sawn
so that they will be slightly inset on the stiles. off and then chiseled flush to the front of
The simple flat panel for the door is cut the door.
from 1⁄ 2-in.-thick stock, then rabbeted to fit After assembling the door, test the fit
into the frame. Start by gluing the center of against the case. If the assembly went to-
Cut the tenon cheeks. With a tenoning jig
supporting the rails on end, cut each tenon
cheek. The jig also is used to cut mortises on
each end of the stiles to accept the tenons.
A dowel pin adds an interesting detail and

a little extra strength. Drill a 1⁄4 -in.-dia. by
5 ⁄ 8 -in.-deep hole in the front face of the door,
centered on the bridle joint, then glue a dowel

pin into the hole.
gether square, you should have a perfect I drilled an off-center 7⁄ 8-in.-dia. hole into
fit. If necessary, trim it for a tight fit on the the drawer face to serve as a finger pull. The
case using either a plane or the tablesaw. hard edges on the finger pull are softened
Because you’ve already mortised the case for with a knife, and the whittled surfaces are
the hinges, all that’s left is to cut the mating a nice surprise when someone opens the
hinge mortises in the door. I use a router to drawer for the first time. Without fail, they
cut mortises, but a chisel works as well. pull out the drawer and take a closer look.
That closer look is as near to a trophy as a
Adding a drawer woodworker gets.
The lower drawer inside is joined using
through-dovetails at both the front and back.
You can use the same dovetailing method
you used for the case.
Quick, Sturdy M a r t i n M i l kov i t s
Bookcase
I
n my home, bookcases show up in
every room, serving not only as places
to store our growing collection of
books but also as places to display art and
other items of interest. This butternut-
and-maple bookcase is a versatile piece, big
enough to hold a good number of books and/
or collectibles while small enough to fit in
almost any room.
The design is understated, with bracket
feet and gentle curves along the tops of the
sides, and maple back boards contrasting
softly with butternut sides and shelves.
But you can use this construction method
to build a bookcase in any style. The shelves
are attached to the sides with sliding dove-
tails, which provide a mechanical connection
that will never pull apart. Sliding dovetails
also are used to connect cabinet tops to bot-
toms, to join vertical partitions to shelves,
to attach molding to case sides, to connect
breadboard ends to tabletops, and to attach
drawer fronts to sides. In this case, I stopped
the dovetails for a clean look on the front of
the piece. The back boards are shiplapped to
allow for wood movement.
143
Top shelf,
101⁄ 2 in. wide
Simple ShiplAp
but Strong 1⁄ 32 -in. gap

Anatomy
Side 3⁄16 in.
This butternut-and- rABBet
maple bookcase can
hold a heavy load of
Back of side
books. The tapered Top 1⁄4 in.
sliding dovetails that 3⁄ 8 shelf
connect the shelves in. 5 ⁄16
3⁄ 8 in. in.
to the sides create 3⁄4
a powerful wedged in. 3⁄ 8 in.
joint and eliminate
the need for clamps Back 1⁄4 in.
1⁄ 2 in. board
during assembly.
All of the parts are Cove
made of 3⁄4 -in.-thick
stock, except for the groove
back boards (see for
detail). BACK
Shelves, 3⁄4 in.
BoArd
thick by 10 in. wide
Sides, 3⁄4 in. thick by by 341⁄ 2 in. long,
101⁄ 2 in. wide by shoulder to shoulder
64 in. long
Shelf
14°
dovetAil 5 ⁄16 in.
Key shorter
than slot
depth
Stopped
dovetAil
Back boards,
3⁄ 8in. thick,
6 in.
5⁄ 8 are attached
in.
8 in. to shelves
1 in. with 15-ga.
finish nails.
9 in.
Apron, 3⁄4 in. thick by Bottom shelf,
21⁄ 2 in. 91⁄4 in. wide
10 in. 41⁄4 in. wide by
64 in. 341⁄ 2 in. long, is
glued to shelf and
11 in. screwed to sides.
1 3⁄4 in.
Glue block, 1 in. by glue

12 in. 1 in. by 31⁄ 2 in. long BloCK
41⁄4 in.
101⁄ 2 in. 36 in. Glue

block adds
Pocket
strength.
screws
144 b o o kc a s e s
Tapered Slots in Two Steps
To ensure consistent results, the slots for each shelf are routed using a long fence and a plywood cleat.
After the first pass, add a shim between the fence and cleat, then use the same router setup to taper the slot.
Attach a plywood The width of the fence Router base Stop

cleat to the top of determines the position of the rides along
Fence
the workpiece. stop and depends on the size of the fence.
your router base.
Align the fence

Screw the cleat to Case
flush with the
the waste area of side
back of the case.
the case side.
Stop
Side view
3⁄ 8 in.
Fence
Screw
5 ⁄16 in. stop to
fence.
Case side Dovetail bit, 1⁄ 2 in., 14°
First pass. Attach a cleat

to each case side. Screw the
plywood cleat to the top of the
inside case sides and perfectly
Clamp the fence to the workpiece. Align the Rout the slot. Holding the router tight against
square to the edges. Place
front edge of the fence flush with the back of the the fence for control, cut until you reach the stop.
screws in areas that will be
case side and tight against the cleat at the top. Let the bit stop spinning before backing it out of
wasted away when you profile
the slot or you could ruin the cut.
the ends.
qu ic k , s t u r dy bo okc a se 145
Second pass. Shim out the back side. Place the shim between Reclamp and rerout. With the shim in place and the fence
the fence and the cleat. Veneer tape is the perfect thickness reclamped, run the router through the slot to add the taper.
(1⁄ 32 in.) to create the desired taper.
Add a shim to taper the slots
Taper
Router
Shim Back of case
Trim the fence. After routing both slots for the

bottom shelf, cut the fence down to repeat the to slide the shelf in from the back without
process on the next set of slots. binding and creates a wedging action in front
as the shelf is tapped home.
The amount of taper is not that critical
as long as it is consistent. I keep it to about
Why taper the dovetail? 1⁄ 32 in. (about as thick as three business cards)
A sliding dovetail has two parts: the slot and per 10 in. of board width. With a taper like
the dovetail key. Here the slots are routed this, the joint can be almost completely as-
into the case sides and the keys are cut on the sembled for trial fitting and can be driven
ends of the shelf. When you use this joint in home with a few mallet blows.
wide stock, binding is a common headache
during glue-up. The joint goes halfway home, Router method simplifies
then the glue makes the wood swell and complex joint
the joint seizes. That’s why I taper the joint Tapered sliding dovetails can be cut by hand,
slightly toward the front of the case. The using saws and chisels, but this method can be
taper—cut on one side of the slot and on the imprecise and time-consuming. I prefer to use
corresponding face of the key—makes it easy a router and a few simple jigs to do the job. The
method is clean and allows you to dial in the a stop to the business end of the fence and
fit of each joint. To avoid confusion, be sure to clamp the assembly in place (see “Tapered
label mating parts as you work. Slots in Two Steps” on p. 145).
Set the router to make a 5⁄16 -in.-deep cut
Cut slots with a handheld router and rout the slot across the side until you
For strength, the slot should be no deeper reach the stop. Next, remove the fence and
than half the thickness of the side. Likewise, place a shim between the rear edge of the
the thin part of the key should be at least half cleat and the rear edge of the fence. Re-
the thickness of the shelf, and the length at clamp the fence in place, then pass the router
least one-third the thickness of the shelf. through the slot to create the taper along the
First, screw a 3⁄4 -in.-thick plywood cleat to bottom edge. Repeat this operation in the
the top of the case sides. Mark the shelf loca- opposite side of the case. Once you have both
tions on each side, then make a 3⁄4 -in.-thick slots for the bottom shelf routed and tapered,
plywood fence to locate the slots in both trim the fence to cut slots for the next higher
sides. Cut the fence to a length that aligns shelf and repeat all of the previous steps.
the router bit with the lower shelf location Now is a good time to cut the bracket
and rip it to a width that will place the router feet on the bottom of the sides as well as the
bit 3⁄ 8 in. from the front of the side. Screw profi le on top. Clean up those edges before
proceeding.
Taper the Dovetail Keys

The keys are cut and tapered at the router table
using the same bit that cut the slots, adjusted
so that its height is a hair under the slot depth.
Use a tall auxiliary fence to keep the long
workpieces stable.
Shim the rear edge of the shelf

bottom and rout both sides of
the shelf end. Test piece gets you started. Take light passes
along both edges of a test piece (made from a
Front shelf offcut) until it slides halfway or more into a
of shelf slot with hand pressure.
Tapered
edge of
key
Straight Shim on
edge of bottom
key face of Shim out the bottom rear of the shelves. Use
shelf a shim of the same thickness used to taper the
slots. Veneer tape is great because you can iron
it on and take it off easily.
Fine-tune the fit. Keep making hairline passes on the router
table to get the key to slide closer to home (top left). To micro-
adjust the fit, use a sanding block cut to the same angle as the
dovetail bit and attach adhesive-backed P120-grit sandpaper to it
(below). The goal is to get the shelf to slide with just hand pressure
until it is about 11⁄ 2 in. from being fully home (below left).
Cut keys on the router table

Place the same bit you used to cut the slots
into the router table and set the depth so
that it’s a hair less (0.005 in. or so) than the
depth of the slots. This will create a tiny gap
to make the sliding action easier. Using a test
piece the same thickness as the shelves, adjust
the fence and take light cuts on both sides
until the test piece fits about halfway or more
into a slot with hand pressure. Once you’ve
reached that point, you are ready to rout the
actual shelves.
First, add a shim to the bottom rear of
each shelf. The shim should be the same
thickness as the shim used to taper the slots.
Rout the top side of the key on each end of
each shelf. Then flip each shelf to cut the
bottom of the keys. At this point, each shelf
should slide freely about halfway home but
tight after that. To fit the shelves individu-
ally, make hairline passes across the top,
straight side of each key until the shelf slides
to within 11⁄ 2 in. of being fully home with
Trim 5⁄ 8 in. from the front
of the key. Use a handsaw to
remove most of the waste,
and clean up the cut with a
sharp chisel.
Push and pound. Stand the sides rear-edge up on an assembly

bench. To install each shelf, place a spot of glue inside the
corresponding slots near the front edge. Push in the shelf as far
as you can by hand and fist, then rap the shelf home with a mallet.
When installing the bottom shelf, put the apron in place to serve
as a stop. Later you can screw the apron into place.
Nail in the back boards
in order. Slide the top edges
of the boards into the groove
under the top shelf. To avoid
misses, mark the shelf
locations across the back,
then nail each board to each
shelf with 15-ga. finish nails.
only hand pressure. Use a small, angled sand- boards are cut to final size, use a raised-panel
ing block to dial in the fit. cove cutter to rout a 1⁄4 -in. tongue along their
Next, use a handsaw and a chisel to trim tops. Then rout the rabbets along their sides
5 ⁄ 8 in. from the front of the keys. Refine the fit to create the shiplap.
with the sanding block if needed. Now rout a To glue in the shelves, stand the sides rear-
groove under the top shelf, 1⁄4 in. from the back edge up on an assembly bench. Place a spot of
edge, for the back boards. Next, rip the lower glue inside the corresponding slots near the
shelves to size along their back edges and trim front edge, slide in the shelf as far as you can
an additional 3⁄4 in. off the front of the bot- with hand pressure, then tap the shelf home
tom shelf to accommodate the apron. Finally, with a mallet.
cut the rabbets that hold the back boards. After installing the apron and glue blocks,
the piece is ready for finishing (the back
Glue in shelves, boards are finished before final installation).
then add back boards For this bookcase, I sprayed on Deft® clear
Once you have all the shelves fitted to the lacquer.
sides, the hardest work is done. Now’s After you have the back boards in place,
the time to glue up the case and cut and the bookcase is ready for your collection of
fit the back boards and apron. Russian nesting dolls.
The maple back boards are ripped to ran-
dom widths no wider than 31⁄ 2 in. Once the
Cherry and Fir Peter Zuerner
Bookcase
S
everal years ago, my sister Cicely was
looking for a bookcase that would be
attractive, functional, and reasonably
easy to move. The piece I designed and built
for her is now one of the stock pieces in
my furniture shop. I call it, appropriately,
Cicely’s Bookshelf.
I wanted the bookcase to have a spare and
elegant look, so I kept the frame parts to a
minimum and elevated the piece off the floor
by extending the corner posts to create four
short legs. All four edges of the top, along
with the front edge of each shelf, were given
a generously sized cove to create the illusion
of thinner stock. As a result, even when the
piece is filled with books, it appears light
and graceful.
Choose the wood with care

For me, the first and most important step
in any furniture project is the process of
selecting the wood. Consistent color and
grain are important, and I’m always on
the lookout for something interesting. I
especially like to incorporate special grain
or a natural defect. Not only does an odd
grain or a small defect make each piece a bit
more unique, it also provides a strong visual
connection to the tree from which it evolved.
For instance, the piece shown here has a
small, sound knot near the front of the lower
shelf, about midway across the span.
In this piece, I liked the idea of blending
darker cherry with the strong grain of quarter-
151
Frame-and-Panel Bookcase Top, 1 3⁄ 8 in. thick by 18 in. Upper rail, 11⁄4 in. thick by 21⁄4 in. wide by
wide by 441⁄ 2 in. long 371⁄4 in. long, shoulder to shoulder
The author incorporated frame-and-panel
construction in his bookcase, with the mortise
and tenon accounting for most of the joinery.
Back rails, 11⁄4 in. thick by

21⁄4 in. wide by 371⁄4 in. long,
shoulder to shoulder
Shelves, 1 in. thick

by 121⁄ 2 in. wide
Wood button (including 21⁄4 -in.-wide
secures top front edging) by
381⁄ 8 in. long
Back panels,
5⁄ 8
in. thick by
18 in. wide by
541⁄16 in. long Bottom shelf is
screwed to the
lower front rail
and the cleat.
Shelf pin
Center divider,
Lower front rail,
11⁄4 in. thick by
11⁄4 in. thick by
21⁄ 2 in. wide by
21⁄4 in. wide by
533⁄ 8 in. long,
375⁄ 8 in. long,
shoulder to
shoulder to
shoulder
shoulder
Cleat, 1 in. sq. 441⁄ 2 in. 18 in.

by 371⁄4 in. long
Side panels,
5⁄ 8 1⁄4 in.
in. thick
11 in.
by 11 3⁄ 8 in.
wide by
541⁄16 in. 111⁄ 2 in.
long 1 in. 11⁄4 in.
651⁄ 2 in.
Side rails, 11⁄4 in. Posts, 12 in.
thick by 21⁄4 in. wide 1 5⁄ 8 in. sq. by
by 103⁄4 in. long, 641⁄ 8 in. long 5 ⁄16 in.
shoulder to shoulder 121⁄ 2 in.
91⁄ 2 in.
401⁄ 2 in. 14 in.
Cut the Joinery for the Posts and Rails
The rails have stepped tenons that fit snugly in both the panel
groove and the mortise, adding strength to the joints.
Grooves in posts,
Post detail 5 ⁄ 8 in. wide by Back rails,
Posts, 3⁄ 8 in. deep 11⁄4 in. thick by
15⁄ 8 in. 1 5⁄ 8 in. sq. 21⁄4 in. wide
3⁄ 8 in.
11⁄ 2 in.
1⁄ 2 in.
Cut grooves to accept the fir panels.
3⁄ 8 in.
To cut stopped grooves in the posts, first clamp
an extra-long auxiliary fence to the rip fence of
the tablesaw, then clamp a stop block to the
auxiliary fence. Use a dado head to cut
the grooves. 5⁄ 8 in.
Back panels,
5⁄ 8
in. thick
Square the
corners. The
dado head leaves Tenon detail
a rounded portion 5 ⁄ 8 in.
3⁄ 8 in.
at the stopped
end of the
grooves. A chisel
makes them
square in short 3⁄ 8 in. 3⁄ 8 in.
order. 5⁄ 8 in.
End of
side rails
11⁄ 2 in. 3⁄ 8 in.
Grooves in
rails, 5⁄ 8 in.
wide by
3⁄ 8 in. deep
65⁄ 8 in.
6 in.
Side rails,
Two-step tenon. Use a dado head to cut the 11⁄4 in. thick
tenons. First clamp a stop block to the fence to by 21⁄4 in.
wide
establish the tenon length. Then cut the portion
of the tenon that fits into the groove. To create 11⁄ 8 in.
the step, reset the blade height and reposition
the stop block, as shown.
c h er ry a n d f i r bo okc a se 153
sawn Douglas fir. So I used cherry for the After all of the joints had been cut and
frame parts, the top, and the front edging on fitted, I cut the panels to final length and
the shelves. The quartersawn fir is incorpo- width. All of the panel surfaces were sanded
rated into the panels. through 220 grit. After that, I applied four
Sometimes, when wood is moved from coats of tung oil to each panel.
one location to another, the new conditions Oil finishes sometimes bleed from the
of temperature and humidity can cause it to wood pores while drying. When that hap-
warp a bit, often within a few hours of the pens, the finish often ends up with tiny beads
relocation. So once I have all of the oversize of hardened oil, and that can give the finish
stock together in my shop, I like to give it a a slight roughness. So once a coat had dried,
few weeks to acclimate to its new temporary I sanded it lightly with 1,000-grit sandpaper
home. Then, after rough-milling the stock, I wetted with mineral oil. The wet-sanding
allow it to sit for another day before cutting removed any beads that formed. Then, I
it to final size. Any last-minute twisting or wiped the sanded surfaces with a clean, soft
cupping gets removed at this stage. cloth and allowed the mineral oil to dry.
Once it was dry, I added the next coat of
Construction is tung oil.
straightforward
I began by gluing up blanks for the 5⁄ 8-in.-
thick side and back panels. To do that, I
resawed 8/4 fir, book-matching the panels to
add a balanced look.
All of the shelves were made from com-
mercially available 5/4 by 12-in.-wide stair
stock. However, the front of each shelf
received an edging of 21⁄4 -in.-wide cherry, so
the bookcase ends up with an all-cherry
Assembly begins at the back. With all of the
look when viewed from the front. The cherry parts cut and fitted to his satisfaction, the author
edging has another plus. Because fir some- is ready to begin assembly. First, though, he
times can be splintery, the cherry almost applies four coats of tung oil finish to all of the
eliminated any splitting out when the coves panels.
were cut.
Most of the frame was put together with
mortise-and-tenon joints. The one exception
is a sliding dovetail joint that I used to con-
nect each end of the lower front rail to the
lower side rail.
To accept the panels, I cut 5⁄ 8-in.-wide
grooves into the posts, the center divider,
the side rails, and the upper and lower back
rails. The grooves in the posts were stopped
about 7 in. short of the bottom. Then, at each Assemble the back. The two back panels are
stopped end, I used a bench chisel to square slipped into the grooves in the frame parts and
up the rounded portion. then clamped.
Add the remaining frame-
and-panel parts. Once the
back glue-up has dried, the
remaining frame-and-panel
parts are added in one big
glue-up. First, the lower front
rail is assembled to the two
lower side rails and then all
four of the side rails are added
to the back posts. Following in
quick succession are the side
panels, front posts, and the
upper rail (left). An assortment
of clamps keeps the joints tight
until the glue sets up (above).
Assembly starts While the clamped parts dried, I cut the

with the back section top and the shelves to final width and length.
I started the assembly process by putting to- Then I cut the coved profile. Although you
gether all of the parts that compose the back can use a special shaper cutter, I cut the coves
section—the two back posts, the upper and in two steps using a tablesaw and a router
lower back rails, the center divider, and the table. For this technique, I used a dado head
two back panels. Except for the panels, all of
the mating surfaces were glued together. That
way, the panels are free to expand and contract
in width as their moisture content changes.
Once the back section was dry, I joined
most of the remaining parts in one big glue-
up. I began by adding the lower front rail to
the two lower side rails. After that, the four
side rails were assembled to the mortises in
the two back posts. Then I simply slid the
side panels into the grooves in the side rails.
Once the upper front rail was mounted, I The lamb’s tongue. A small bevel at each
added the clamps and checked the frame corner of the top is cut with a chisel to help
for square. soften the hard right angle of the edges.
1
Remove most of the waste. Make a series of increasingly deeper

cuts with the dado head. A test block, with the cove profile marked
on the end, helps establish the location of the cuts.
Cut the Coves in Two Steps

2
Applying a generous cove to the exposed edges of
the top and the shelves makes the parts look thinner,
Make a series of cuts using the router table and a
giving this large bookcase a lighter feel.
large cove bit. Use a curved scraper to smooth out any
wavy edges left by the cove bit.
3⁄ 8 in. Top
1 3⁄ 8 in. in the tablesaw and made several passes to

remove most of the waste stock. Then, using
a 3⁄4 -in.-radius cove bit mounted in a router
2 in.
table, I made a series of additional passes. The
cove bit easily conforms to the profile, so it’s
3⁄ 8
more efficient at removing waste stock than a
in. Shelf
straight-sided dado head is.
After the work with the cove bit had been
1 in. completed, I was left with a wavy profile that
needed to be smoothed out. A curved scraper
11⁄ 2 in. came in handy here.
Once all of the coves had been cut and
smoothed, I used a chisel to cut a small bevel,
Attach the bottom shelf.
The bottom shelf is secured by
driving screws up through the
cleat and the lower front rail.
To allow the shelf to expand
and contract with changes in
humidity, the author uses a
rat-tail file to slot the portion of
the hole that accepts the shank
of the screw.
Add the top. After cutting

several shallow slots in the
upper rails, the author slips a
notched wood button in each
slot. Then the buttons are
screwed to the underside of
the top.
sometimes called a lamb’s tongue, where the I used a simple jig to drill the holes for the
coves meet at the corners. Granted, it’s a pins that support the shelf. And here I had
small detail, but it brings the corners to a two options. I could have drilled a series of
crisp point. Also, to anyone looking at the holes, spaced evenly apart, to provide adjust-
bookcase, the bevel sends a subtle message ability. Or, if the client didn’t want to see all
that this isn’t a production piece but was of those holes, I could have simply drilled
made by a craftsman. them where the shelves were going to go.
At this point in the construction, all five of To add strength to the bookcase, the bot-
the shelves were just about complete. I simply tom shelf was fixed in place. It rests on two
had to notch the front and back corners to fit parts: the lower front rail and a cleat that’s
around the inside corners of the four posts. screwed to the inside face of the lower back
Straightforward
construction. You won’t
need much more than a
weekend or two to build
this elegant bookcase.
rail. Six screws hold the shelf in place. The each coat with 1,000-grit paper while the oil
screws were driven up through counterbored was still wet.
holes in the lower front rail and the cleat. To allow the top to expand and contract in
Next, I sanded all exposed surfaces until width as the humidity changes, I attached it
smooth, except for the panels, with 220-grit to the frame using eight small wood buttons.
paper. Then, again excepting the panels, I A final rubdown with a soft, dust-free cloth
added four coats of tung oil, sanding between completed the project.
Metric Equivalents
inches centimeters millimeters inches centimeters millimeters
1⁄ 8 0.3 3 13 33.0 330
1⁄4 0.6 6 14 35.6 356
3⁄ 8 1.0 10 15 38.1 381
1⁄ 2 1.3 13 16 40.6 406
5⁄ 8 1.6 16 17 43.2 432
3 ⁄4 1.9 19 18 45.7 457
7 ⁄8 2.2 22 19 48.3 483
1 2.5 25 20 50.8 508
11⁄4 3.2 32 21 53.3 533
11⁄ 2 3.8 38 22 55.9 559
13 ⁄4 4.4 44 23 58.4 584
2 5.1 51 24 61 610
21⁄ 2 6.4 64 25 63.5 635
3 7.6 76 26 66.0 660
31⁄ 2 8.9 89 27 68.6 686
4 10.2 102 28 71.7 717
41⁄ 2 11.4 114 29 73.7 737
5 12.7 127 30 76.2 762
6 15.2 152 31 78.7 787
7 17.8 178 32 81.3 813
8 20.3 203 33 83.8 838
9 22.9 229 34 86.4 864
10 25.4 254 35 88.9 889
11 27.9 279 36 91.4 914
12 30.5 305
167
Contributors
Christian Becksvoort, a Fine Woodworking Michael Pekovich, Fine Woodworking’s

contributing editor, builds furniture in New executive art director, is also a prolific furniture
Gloucester, Maine. He has been doing restoration maker.
work at the Sabbathday Lake Shaker community
since 1975. Mario Rodriguez is a longtime contributor who
teaches at the Philadelphia Furniture Workshop
Anatole Burkin, former editor-in-chief of (philadelphiafurnitureworkshop.com).
Fine Woodworking, is the Group Publisher
of Fine Homebuilding, Fine Woodworking, and Matthew Teague lives in Nashville, Tenn.,
Fine Gardening at The Taunton Press, Inc. where he builds furniture and writes about
woodworking.
Steve Casey designs and builds fine custom
furniture, cabinetry, and original artwork and Peter Turner is a furniture maker in South
has been serving the Los Angeles and Southern Portland, Maine.
California market since 1978.
Peter Zuerner, owner of Zuerner Design,
Charles Durfee builds furniture in Woolwich, builds furniture in Middletown, R.I., just a silver-
Maine. spoon’s throw from the historic mansions of
Newport.
Garrett Hack, a professional furniture maker,
writer, and internationally known teacher, is a
Fine Woodworking contributing editor.
Steve Latta, a Fine Woodworking contributing

editor, builds reproduction and contemporary
furniture while teaching cabinetmaking at
Thaddeus Stevens College of Technology in
Lancaster, Pa. He lives in rural Pennsylvania
with his wife, Elizabeth, and their three children,
Fletcher, Sarah and Grace.
Philip C. Lowe is the master furniture maker

and director of The Furniture Institute of
Massachusetts (www.furnituremakingclasses.
com). Since 1985 he has operated a furniture
making and restoration shop in Beverly, Mass.
Martin Milkovits, a furniture maker in

Mason, N.H., is a member of the League of
NH Craftsmen, Guild of New Hampshire
Woodworkers, and the New Hampshire
Furniture Masters Association. He has work on
permanent exhibit in the Uncle Sam Museum in
Sonoma, Calif.
Gregory Paolini owns and operates a

custom furniture and cabinetry business near
Asheville, NC. He also writes and teaches about
woodworking. You can see examples of his work
at www.GregoryPaolini.com.
168
Credits
All photos are courtesy of Fine Woodworking pp. 110–124: A Low Console for Home Theater
magazine © The Taunton Press, Inc., except as by Steve Casey, issue 200. Photos by Steve Scott
noted below: except for photos p. 110 and 111 (top right and
bottom left) by Dean Della Ventura. Drawings by
Front cover: Main photo by Thomas McKenna. Top to John Hartman.
bottom: Anissa Kapsales and Ken St. Onge
pp. 118–125: Wall Cabinet in Cherry by Matthew
Back cover from top to bottom: Steve Scott, Thomas Teague, issue 180. Photos by Tom Begnal except for
McKenna, and Steve Scott photo p. 118 by Kelly J. Dunton. Drawings by John
Hartman.
The articles in this book appeared in the following
issues of Fine Woodworking >: pp. 126–133: A Better Way to Build Wall Cabinets
by Garrett Hack, issue 210. Photos by Michael
pp. 4–13: Shaker Blanket Chest by Charles Durfee, Pekovich. Drawings by Bob La Pointe.
issue 172. Photos by Mark Schofield except for
photo p. 5 by Michael Pekovich. Drawings by pp. 134–142: Build a Vanity Cabinet by Mario
Fred Carlson. Rodriguez, issue 235. Photos by Thomas McKenna.
Drawings by Bob La Pointe.
pp. 14–23: Hickory and Ash Blanket Chest by
Peter Turner, issue 203. Photos by Anissa Kapsales. pp. 143–150: Quick, Sturdy Bookcase by Martin
Drawings by Bob La Pointe. Milkovits, issue 194. Photos by Thomas McKenna.
Drawings by John Hartman.
pp. 24–33: Shaker Chest of Drawers by Christian
Becksvoort, issue 206. Photos by Anissa Kapsales pp. 151–158: Cherry and Fir Bookcase by Peter
except for photo p. 24 by Michael Pekovich. Zuerner, issue 161. Photos by Tom Begnal except
Drawings by Bob La Pointe. for photo p. 151 by Michael Pekovich, photo p. 155
(bottom) by Kelly J. Dunton, and photo p. 158 by
pp. 34–41: Classic Shaker Cupboard by Christian Scott Phillips. Drawings by Bob La Pointe.
Becksvoort, issue 218. Photos by Anissa Kapsales
except for photo p. 35 by Dennis Griggs. Drawings pp. 159–166: A Classic Case by Gregory Paolini,
by John Hartman. issue 179. Photos by Andy Engel except for photos
p. 162 by Rodney Diaz. Drawings by Bob La Pointe.
pp. 42–47: Frame-and-Panel Doors Made Easier by
Christian Becksvoort, issue 218. Photos by Anissa
Kapsales. Drawings by John Hartman.
pp. 48–57: Shaker Chimney Cupboard by Michael

Pekovich, issue 232. Photos by Ken St. Onge except
for photo p. 48 by Michael Pekovich and photos
pp. 51, 53, 56, and 57 by Rachel Barclay. Drawings
by John Hartman.
pp. 58–69: Pennsylvania Spicebox by Steve Latta,

issue 196. Photos by Steve Scott. Drawings by
Bob La Pointe.
pp. 70–79: The High Art of the Lowboy by Philip C.

Lowe, issue 201. Photos by Steve Scott. Drawings
by Bob La Pointe.
pp. 80-89: Arts and Crafts on Display by Michael

Pekovich, issue 211. Photos by Thomas McKenna.
Drawings by Bob La Pointe except for drawings
pp. 81 (left), 82, and 83 (except detail drawings) by
Dave Richards.
pp. 90-99: The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack,

issue 187. Photos by Thomas McKenna. Drawings
by Bob La Pointe.
pp. 100–109: Sleek Console Built for Today’s TVs

by Anatole Burkin, issue 214. Photos by Thomas
McKenna except for photo pp. 101 (top left) and
108 (bottom) by Michael Pekovich. Drawings by
Bob La Pointe.
169
Index
Note: Page numbers in italics Bookcase, quick and sturdy, drawings, 111, 112–13 Frame-and-Panel Doors
indicate projects. 143–50 edging/attaching top, 117 Made Easier, 42–47
design overview, 143 finishing, 117 Pennsylvania Spice Box,
A drawings, 144 open shelving, 111, 114 58–69
Arts and Crafts cabinet, gluing up, 146, 150 Console, sleek TV, 100–109
80–89 shelves, 146, 147, 148–50 carcase joinery, 100–104 D
design overview, 80–85 sliding dovetails, 146–47 design overview, 100 Dadoes
doors and drawers, 88 tapered slots, 145–47 doors, drawers, shelves, jig for dovetails and, 25
drawings, 81–83 Bullnose edges, 55, 161–63 107–09 rabbets and, 50, 51–52, 100,
fuming/finishing, 89 dry-fitting and gluing up, 104, 137
gluing up, 87–88 C 104–07 stopped, 51, 52, 62, 65
lining up crosspieces, 87 Chest, hickory and ash finishing, 109 working efficiently, 51–52
sliding dovetails, 86, 88 blanket, 14–23 solid-wood base, 109 Doors. See also Frame-and-
through-mortise-and- bottom of, 23 Cove, cutting, 66, 138–40, panel doors; specific projects
tenons, 84–85 dovetails for, 28, 29–30 156 bead stock jig, 97
drawings, 15, 16–17 Cupboard, chimney, 48–57 fitting to case, 45–47
B finishing and rope stay, 23 assembling, 54–56 mirrored, 142
Banding, making decorative, gluing up, 22 construction overview, shadow lines enhancing
132 hinging lid, 22 48–51 look, 124–25
Bead legs, 15, 18 dadoes, 51–52 simple, sturdy joints, 140
assembling frame with, 98, sliding tray glides, 22–23 dadoes and rabbets for, 50, smooth sliding, 107
99 tongue-and-groove panels 51–52 Dovetails
contrasting, 98–99 and dividers, 20–21 doors and drawers, 56–57 aligning perfectly, 129
cutting, 68–69, 94, 97, 134 Chest, Shaker blanket, 4–13 dovetails locking top of, 52 Arts and Crafts cabinet
jig for, 97 about: evolution of storage drawings, 52–53 with, 80–89
scratching, 99 chests and, 4 face frame, 53–56 bookcase with, 143–50
Beading tool, shopmade, 68 base, 12, 13 working efficiently, 51–52 crack repair, 10
dovetails for, 8–10 Cupboard, classic storage, cupboards with, 34–41,
Biscuit joinery, 114–15 48–57
drawer in, 6, 13 34–41
Blanket chests. See Chest, drawings, 6–7 assembling, 38, 41 drawers with, 57
hickory and ash blanket; dry-fitting carcase, 11 drawers, 39–40 efficient carcase system,
Chest, Shaker blanket finishing, 13 drawings, 36–37 118–23
Bookcase, cherry and fir hardware attachment, 13 face frame, 38, 39 fixing problems, 10
frame-and-panel, 151–58 hiding end grain, 11, 12 finishing, 40 gaps between pins/tails, 10
construction/assembly, matching dimensions to large panels, 34 half-blind, 25, 29–30, 40
154–58 boards, 4–8 for storage cupboard, 41 huntboard with, 90–99
drawings, 152–53 top-molding detail, 7 jig for dadoes and, 25–28
Cupboard, Pennsylvania spice for large panels, 28, 29–30
finishing, 158 Chest of drawers, Shaker, box, 58–69
post and rail joinery, 153 24–33 laying out, 8–9
back, 66 lowboy with, 70–79
wood selection, 151–54 base and top, 31 case joinery, 62–63
Bookcase, classic, 159–66 dovetailing large case, 28, rabbets in, 59, 63, 93
crown molding and feet, Shaker blanket chest with,
design overview, 159 29–30 66–67
drawings, 160–61 drawers, 30, 32 4–13
design overview, 59 Shaker chest of drawers
dry-fitting, assembling, drawings, 26–27 door, 67–68
gluing up, 164–65, 166 finishing, 30–31, 33 with, 24–33
drawings, 59–61 sliding, 11, 12, 25, 26, 30,
finishing, 165 sides of, 25–28 hidden compartments, 59,
floating tenons for, 159, 160, 86, 88, 122, 123, 126,
Console, for home theater, 65, 69 131, 146–47
161–63 110–17 partitions, 63–65
mortising and grooving spice box with, 58–69
attaching solid trim, 115–16 Cupboards stopped, 143, 144
frame, 163–64 carcase joinery, 114–15 Chimney Cupboard, 48–57
preparing stock, 159–61 tapering, 96, 146–47
design overview, 110–14 Classic Storage Cupboard, through, 40, 125
drawers, 116–17 34–41
170
using tails to mark pins, 9 fitting to case, 45–47 Mortise-and-tenon joints. See hinges, 142
wall cabinets with, 118–25, general guidelines, 42 also specific projects mirrored door, 142
126–33 making, 45 for cabriole legs, 72–73 shelves and shelf supports,
Drawers straight and tapered cuts, 46 cutting mortises in pairs, 134
Arts and Crafts cabinet traditional method, 42 18–20
with, 80–89 Fuming wood, 89 floating tenons, 15, 159, W
building, 32 160, 161–63 Wall cabinet, in cherry,
chest of, 24–33 G jigs for mortises, 141, 162 118–25
chimney cupboard with, joiner for, 100, 101, 105 design overview, 118
Grain (end), hiding, 11, 12
48–57 plywood corner joint, 101, door, 124–25
104
clean pulls for, 67 H precise, 74–76
dovetailing carcase, 118–23
detail, illustrated, 6, 26, 36, drawer, 125
Hinges, mortising, 47 routing for loose tenons,
40, 61, 71, 83, 103, 112, drawings, 119
128 Huntboard, 90–99 141 mounting with cleats, 123
dovetail, 57 design overview, 91 through, 84–85 (see also drawings)
face frames with, 39 doors and drawers, 97–99 Mortises rabbeting for back, 123
false fronts, 117 drawings, 92–93 hinge, 47 securing shelves, 123
fitting and installing, 34 finishing, 99 stopped, 57 shelves, 122, 123, 124
hidden compartments in, front rail/stretcher, 93, 94 sliding dovetails, 123
59, 65, 69 gluing up, 91 P Wall cabinets, 126–33. See
home theater console with, legs (tapered) and banding, Panels, large, 28, 29–30, 34 also Vanity cabinet
100–109 91, 94–95
cutting joinery, 131
side and rear aprons, 94–95
huntboard with, 90–99
stiff structure/joinery, 96
R design overview, 126
lipped-front, 6 drawings, 127–28
Rabbets
lowboy with, 70–79 finishing touches, 132–33
partitions, 63–65, 75–76 J for case back, 123
gluing up, 130–31, 132
dadoes and, 50, 51–52, 100,
rails/dividers for, 30, 32, Joiner, 100, 101, 105 making decorative banding
104, 137
40, 41 for, 132
dovetails with, 59, 63, 93
runners, 28 L routing, 115 molding, 133
running smoothly, 30, 32 Legs narrow, in cherry. See Wall
stopped, 26, 60
Shaker chest of, 34–41 cabriole, 72–74, 76–77 cabinet, in cherry
on tablesaw, 28
spice box with, 58–69 compound-angled, 15, 18 shelves, 127, 129, 130, 131
stops, 40
for storage cupboard, 39–40
tapered, 91, 94 S sizing case to banding,
Lowboy, Queen Anne, 70–79 126–31
TV console with, 110–17 Shiplapping, about, 159
cabriole legs/transition three-piece raised back, 131
wall cabinets with, 118–25, Sideboards. See Arts and
126–33 blocks, 72–74, 76–77 Wood, fuming, 89
Crafts cabinet; Huntboard;
design overview, 70 Lowboy, Queen Anne
F drawings, 71–72
drop finials, 71, 79 Slots
Face-jointing, 161 dry-fitting case, 78 on bandsaw, 56
Finishes finishing, 79 dovetail. See Dovetails
fuming wood, 89 gluing up, 78–79 Spice box. See Cupboard,
lacquer, 117, 142, 150 hand-shaped top, 79 Pennsylvania spice box
oil, 40, 158 mortise-and-tenon joinery,
oil/varnish mixtures, 13, 89, 74–76, 78–79 T
99, 109 TV/home theater consoles. See
sanding sealer under, 117, M Console references
165 Metric equivalents, 167
shellac, 23, 69, 79, 99 V
wax, 79, 99, 109 Miters
for feet, 67 Vanity cabinet, 134–42
Frame-and-panel doors, for molding, 139, 140–41 case joinery, 137
42–47 prebuilt, 140–41 cutting cove for, 138–40
adding molding after simple jig for, 98 design overview, 134
assembly, 44 sled for, 106 door, 140–42
arched, making, 67–69 for wenge face frame, drawings, 136
better approach, 44 106–07 gluing up, 137
cutting molding for, 44
i n de x 171
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CRAFTS & HOBBIES
The best storage

projects in one
collection
W oodworkers have been turning to Fine Woodworking

magazine for the best furniture projects for over 35 years.
This comprehensive collection of chests, cabinets, and other great
storage projects walks you through the process of building elegant
pieces of furniture with the clear instruction and comprehensive
drawings that Fine Woodworking is famous for. Whether you love
the classic Shaker style or embrace more modern design, you’re
sure to find something to inspire you. And whatever your level
of experience, the projects will provide plenty of challenges to
increase your skills and help you create furniture worthy of being
passed down for generations.
Projects include: Also Available
• Shaker chest of drawers

W Tables
• Arts and Crafts display cabinet and Chairs
• Cherry and fir bookcase

• Elegant lowboy
• Victorian-inspired vanity cabinet
Editors of
Fine Woodworking
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63 South Main Street, P.O. Box 5506 Look for other Taunton Press books wherever books
Newtown, CT 06470-5506 are sold or visit our website at www.tauntonstore.com.
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L ib r a r y o f C o n g r e s s Catal o gi n g - i n - P u bli c ati o n Data

Fine woodworking chests and cabinets / editors of Fine woodworking.

Special thanks to the authors, editors,

• A Vanity Cabinet 134

• Cherry and Fir Bookcase 151

• A Classic Bookcase 159

Metric Equivalents 167

401⁄ 2 in. 193⁄4 in.

391⁄ 2 in. 20 in.

Front, 3⁄4 in. thick

Inner bottom, 3⁄4 in. thick

Back, 3⁄4 in. thick by

Stopped groove in Rabbet,

Panel, 1⁄ 2 in. thick,

Sides, 3⁄4 in. thick

Base front and back, Trim pieces, 1⁄ 2 in.

Extend the layout to the end of the board.

Construct the carcase

front series end with a small half pin or a

the cut is made to its full depth, I follow an

Use the tails to mark the pins

When a test fit Unsightly gaps

Peen small gaps. Small

1 in. 51⁄ 2 in. 17⁄ 8 in.

angled or intricate joinery, I go back to them,

Battens, 3⁄4 in. thick by

Upper side rails, 1 in.

Bottom dividers, 3⁄4 in. thick

Center panel, 1 in.

Side panels, Dividers, 1 in. thick by

Lower rail, 1 in.

Legs, 1 in. thick

Cut mortises in pairs

Face mortises. Run the router’s edge guide

Same method for edge mortises. When

To cut the leg face mortises, transfer the

Rabbet 1⁄4 in.

Panels and dividers

Add the ends. Lay the front

into the front of the chest rather than up

sides to hold the hangers and then glue and

Tackle the sides first

A. Stretcher end detail

11⁄ 2 in. long

3⁄ 8 in. Vertical divider,

Tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick by 3⁄4 in. A

Notch, 3⁄4 in. wide

Drawer sides and

31⁄ 2 in. 41⁄4 in.

Subtop, 3⁄4 in. thick by 18 5⁄ 8 in.

Top rail, 5⁄ 8 in. thick

Panel, 5⁄ 8 in. thick by 91⁄4 in. wide

End stile, 5⁄ 8 in. thick by

Bottom rail, 5⁄ 8 in.

Bottom, 3⁄4 in. thick

C Drawer runner, Side

3 ⁄4 in. Apron detail

Divider helps drawers

• Cherry and Fir Bookcase 151