A8.

Construction manual for a slow sand filter

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TABLE OF CONTENTS 0.0 Introduction................................................................................. pg. 71 1.0 Description................................................................................... pg. 71 2.0 Essential Design Criteria....................................................... pg. 71-72 3.0 Supplies ........................................................................................ pg. 72 4.0 Construction ................................................................................ pg. 73 4.1 Preparing the Barrel....................................................... pg. 74 4.2 Constructing/Installation of PVC Tubing .................... pg. 74 4.3 Washing the gravel and sand ......................................... pg. 77 4.4. Final assembly ................................................................. pg. X 5.0 First run and Operation ............................................................. pg. 80 6.0 Maintenance ................................................................................ pg. 80

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0.0 Introduction This instruction manual will show how to build, operate and maintain an intermittent filtration system. An intermittent filter is one that does not require continuous flow. This allows for the user to filter water when needed. This particular filtration system includes an intermittent slow sand filter and a moringa seed flocculation tank. The filter process is shown in Figure 1. The flocculation tank works to reduce the amount of suspended particles in the water before filtration. This is important because removing particles greatly reduces the amount of bacteria in the water and increases the life of the slow sand filter. The slow sand filter uses a naturally occurring biofilm called a schmutzdecke to aid in water filtration. It is important to know that the biofilm provides the main mechanisms for filtration and maintaining the biofilm is the greatest concern.

Figure 1: This figure shows the filtration process. Step 1 is flocculation of dirty water, add ground moringa seeds and wait over night. Step 2 shows filtration of flocculated water.

1.0 Description The slow sand filter described in this document will produce approximately 1.5 liters of clean water per minute. The filter takes 2 or 3 people about 5 hours to construct. It requires 3 weeks of operation to begin producing clean water. Many of the components used in the construction of this filter may not be available in your area. We suggest alternatives for some of the components throughout the manual. The design can be altered as long as the essential criteria are met. In Nairobi, Kenya a filter with similar attributes was constructed for around 15 US dollars, about 1050 Kenyan shillings. 2. 0 Essential Design Criteria The essential design criteria are the necessary components and filter requirements to allow operation. Listed below are the Essential Design Criteria:

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5. 6. 7. 8.

The dirty water travels through a 45 cm tall column of sand. The sand is prevented from leaving the barrel by a layer of small gravel. The top layer of sand remains under 2 cm of water between uses. The top layer is not disturbed when the dirty water is poured in.

2 cm above the sand

45 cm washed sand

Pebbles to prevent sand

Figure 2: Quarter-section of Slow Sand Filter showing essential criteria.

3.0 Supplies The primary slow sand filter described in this document, as shown in Figure 1, can be made from supplies list on the left of Table 1. An alternative filter can be constructed with the supplies listed on the right of Table 1. Table 2 shows the supplies needed to build a flocculation tank. Included in the supply lists are the tools needed for construction. It should be noted that the sand and gravel are listed in height measurements. While you will not purchase sand and gravel by these measurement it is meant to describe how tall the column of sand and gravel should be. The width of the barrel used will determine the overall volume of sand and gravel required. As long as the sand column is 45 cm deep and the gravel column is 10 cm deep all is well.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Primary Filter Supplies 1 ~55 gallon barrels with seal 5 ft of PVC tubing 45 cm washed sand 10 cm washed pea gravel Fine washed gravel Bulk head with washer PVC joint elbows, no threads PVC joint elbows (one end threaded)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Alternative Filter Supplies 1 ~100 liter barrels with seal 5 ft of PVC tubing 45 cm washed sand 10 cm washed pea gravel Fine washed gravel 2~ PVC joint elbows PVC glue End cap Knife
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9. Non-toxic PVC glue 10. Ball Valve 11. End cap 12. Fine mesh bag or pillow case 13. 20 L bucket 14. Drill or knife 15. Saw 16. 6 mm screen, 60 cm x 60 cm

10. Saw 11. Fine mesh bag or pillow case 12. 20 L bucket

Table 1: This table shows the supplies needed to construct the primary filter and an alternative filter.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Flocculation Tank Supplies 1 ~55 gallon barrel with seal 2x Bulk head with washer 2x Ball valve 2.5 ft of PVC tubing 1 End cap 1 PVC joint elbow, no threads Drill or knife Saw Non-toxic PVC glue

Table 2: This table shows the supplies need to construct a flocculation tank.

4. 0 CONSTRUCTION The construction section describes, in detail, how to assemble the primary filter. Keep in mind that an alternative assembly is possible as long as the minimum criteria are met. It is advised to build the filter in the desired final location. Once the filter is constructed it will be too heavy to move. It should be placed on level ground in a location where the flocculation tank can be elevated as seen in Figure 3.

Flocculation tank

Bio-Filter

Figure 3: Showing a good filter location with a raised flocculation tank.

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4.1 Preparing the barrel Preparing the barrel consists of punching the necessary holes in the barrel and diffuser plate. The diffuser plate fulfills the minimum criterion of "not disturbing the biological layer." The diffuser plate allows the water to drip slowly into the barrel to avoid mixing of sand and water which disturbs the biological layer. The diffuser plate can be made out of the plastic seal that comes with most barrels. If the barrel does not have a plastic seal then a fine 2mm screen would be a good alternative. Using the components and equipment from Table 3a or 3b and following instructions below will complete barrel preparation. In appendix A-1 an exploded view of the barrel, plastic seal (diffuser plate), and vent can be seen. Table 3a Equipment Materials Drill Barrel w/ plastic seal Table 3b Equipment Materials Knife Barrel w/ plastic seal

Table 3: Table 2a shows the equipment and used to make the primary filter. Table 2b shows the minimum equipment and components required.

1. Drill (or cut) a hole 58 cm from the bottom of the barrel, big enough for the bulk head to fit through. If a bulk head is not available, cut the hole as close to the outside diameter of the PVC tubing as possible. 2. To make the diffuser (Figure 4) cut 2-3mm holes 2 cm apart throughout the barrel seal. (The diffuser prevents the dirty water poured in from disturbing the biological layer this is very important). 3. Drill of cut a hole in the center of the plastic seal/diffuser plate such that a small section of PVC tubing can fit snugly without falling through.
Figure 4: Punching holes in the plastic seal to make a diffuser plate. Also shown is the installed bulkhead and ball valve.

4.2 Constructing/Installation of PVC Tubing This section explains how to construct and install the internal PVC tubing. For the primary filter we suggest using a bulk head to allow water to pass through the barrel wall. If a bulk head is not available then a PVC pipe will work. If a PVC pipe is used instead of a bulk head it is important to seal the hole around the PVC with silicone or PVC glue. Below, in Table 3, are the required materials for constructing the primary filter and an 74

alternative filter. The exploded pipe assembly in Figure 5 shows the correct order and layout of each piece included in the pipe assembly for the primary filter. Note that the numbered parts in Figure 5 correspond to the part numbers in instructions. Figure 2 shows how the pipe assembly is situated in the bio-filter.
Table 3a Materials 5 ft of PVC tubing End Cap PVC joint elbows PVC joint elbows (one side female threads) Bulk Head Ball Valve Equipment Knife Saw PVC Glue Table 3b Materials 5 ft of PVC tubing End Cap PVC joint elbows PVC joint elbows (one side female threads)

Equipment Drill Saw PVC Glue

#8 Elbow that is

#10 Ball Valve

#3 Unthreaded #6 Bulk-

#11 End cap

#2 Middle section

#1 Bottom section Figure 5: Exploded view of piping system and bulk head

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4.2.1 Construction and installation of PVC tubing 1. Using the saw cut a section of PVC tubing that fits across the bottom of the barrel with 3 cm of relief from both walls. 2. Drill or cut 5mm diameter holes, 2-3 cm apart down the length of the tube. Do this on four sides of the tube as seen on part #1 of Figure 5. This creates part #1. 3. Without gluing, attach unthreaded PVC elbow (#7) to the bottom PVC section (#1). 4. Using the rest of the PVC pipe attach the middle section (#2) to the elbow (#7). 5. Place attached bottom and middle sections into the barrel as situated in Figure 2. On the middle section, mark the point where the PVC tube touches the top of the bulkhead hole. 6. Using the saw cut the middle section where it is marked. 7. Using the remainder of the PVC pipe cut a piece that is 15 cm long and install into the center hole of the diffuser plate. This will act as a vent when pouring the water of the diffuser plate. 8. To install the bulk head into the barrel use Figure 6 and follow steps a through d. Keep in mind that Figure 6 shows the order in which the bulk pieces fit together. i. Placing the O-ring on the Threaded flange Slide part 6c (O-ring) down the threaded portion of part 6b (threaded flange) until it is snug against the flange. ii. Slide part 6b through the hole you cut in the barrel, such that the threads come from inside the barrel to outside the barrel. Ensure that the o-ring is sandwiched between the threaded flange and the inside of the barrel wall. iii. Thread part 6d (nut) onto the threaded flange. iv. Thread part 6a into the threaded flange.

Note: If a bulkhead is not available then stop at step 6 and follow steps I - VI. If a bulkhead is not available the PVC tubing will be installed in the same manner except without the bulkhead, where the threaded elbow will pass through the barrel instead of the bulkhead passing through the barrel. 9. Without gluing, attach the threaded PVC elbow (#8) to the top of the middle section (#2), as shown in Figure 5. After installing the bulk head make sure the elbow meets the inside of the bulk head. a. If the elbow does not line up with the bulk head take the elbow off and trim the middle section down until the elbow properly connects with the bulkhead. 10. After ensuring the pipe assembly will fit in the barrel and align with the bulkhead glue the end cap (#11), bottom section (#2), unthreaded elbow (#3), and middle section (#2) in the order shown in Figure 5. 11. Place the glued pipe assembly in the barrel as seen in Figure 2. Attach the threaded elbow (#8) to the bulkhead via part 6a. 12. Glue the middle section (#2) and threaded elbow (#8) together.

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13. Thread ball valve (#10) into the bulkhead. 14. This completes the construction and installation of the PVC tubing. On the middle section of the pipe mark the appropriate gravel and sand heights, 10cm and 55cm respectively, from the bottom of the barrel. I. Glue the threaded elbow (#8) into the cut hole such that the threads are facing out and the unthreaded portion is facing down the barrel. II. After installing the threaded elbow make sure the middle section is the proper length to fit in the elbow a. If the pipe does not connect with the elbow properly, trim the pipe so it fits snugly inside the elbow. III. After ensuring the pipe assembly will fit in the barrel and aligns with the threaded elbow glue the end cap (#11), bottom section (#2), unthreaded elbow (#3), and middle section (#2) in the order shown in Figure 5. IV. Place the glued pipe assembly in the barrel as seen in Figure 2 and glue middle section (#2) to the threaded elbow (#8). V. Thread the ball valve (#10) into the threaded elbow (#8).
6b 6

6d

Figure 6: Exploded view of the bulkhead.

4.3.0 Washing the gravel and sand This section will describe how to wash the sand and gravel. It is very important to wash the sand and gravel before using in the filter. If either the sand or gravel is not washed the filter will produce cloudy water. The size of the sand and gravel is also important. It is desirable to use gravel smaller than 6mm. A 6mm screen can be used separate small rocks from larger rocks. If a 6 mm screen is not available one can pick 6 mm rocks by hand. The sand should be medium grade construction sand.

Table 4a Equipment Fine mesh bag or pillow case Water source 20 L 6 mm 60 cm x 60 cm screen Materials Sand Pea gravel

Table 4b Equipment Fine mesh bag or pillow case Water source 20 L

Materials Sand Pea gravel

Table 4: Table 4a shows the equipment and materials used to build the primary filter. Table 4b shows the minimum material required to build the alternative filter.

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1. Washing the pea gravel a. Wash a quarter of a bucket of pea gravel in the mesh bag by running water through the bag. This can be done by dipping the bag into the water source. Repeat this process until the water coming off the rocks is clear (Figure 8) or nearly clear. If the gravel is very dirty this will take a long time (up to 40 minutes per quarter bucket). b. Before adding the gravel to the barrel, make sure the barrel with tubing assembly is washed and the PVC glue is dry. c. Repeat gravel washing process until there is enough gravel to fill the barrel to the 10 cm mark 2. Washing the sand a. Apply the same washing process used for the pea gravel, stirring the sand helps speed this process up. b. Fill the barrel to the sand height mark of 55 cm. c. Clean one and a half more buckets full of sand (this will be needed later).

Figure 7: Clean sand or gravel yields clean water leaving the bag.

4.4.0 Building the flocculation tank This step will explain and show how to build a flocculation tank. The flocculation tank is easy to construct and requires only a few pieces. The Flocculation tank will use the following tools and materials:

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Table 5 Equipment Materials Drill or 1x 55 gallon barrels with seal Knife 3 ft of PVC tubing Saw End Cap PVC Glue PVC joint elbows 2x Bulk Heads 2x Ball Valves Thread adapter

1.

2. 3. 4.

5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Cut a hole in the barrel wall 5cm above the bottom large enough for the bulkhead to fit through. Be sure the hole is high enough to provide ground clearance for the ball valve. Install bulk valve in the same manner as step 7 of PVC installation section. Install ball valve by threading it into the bulkhead. Cut another hole in the barrel wall 5cm above the bottom large enough for the bulkhead to fit through. This hole will be located directly opposite of the first hole. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the second hole. Attach thread adapter to one of the bulk heads. Cut two length of PVC that is half the width of the barrel. For the primary design this is length is 27cm. Drill or cut holes in one length of pipe in the same manner as step 2 of the PVC installation section. Using PVC glue attach the pipe which have no holes to bulkhead and thread adapter assembly. Glue elbow to the non holed pipe, thread adapter, bulkhead assembly using PVC glue. Glue the other pipe, with holes, to the elbow such that rises up the barrel as seen in Figure 8. Allow glue to dry before use.

Flocculated Filthy Drain 5 cm Figure 8: Flocculation tank. 5 cm

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5.0 First Run and Operation Before operating the filter it is important to understand how the process works. The first steps of producing clean water is a process called flocculation. Flocculation is a process which removes suspended particles and is achieved by adding ground moringa seeds into dirty water. This will be done in the flocculation barrel. When the water is finished flocculating there will be a layer silt at the bottom of the barrel, this is illustrated by the yellow layer in Figure 1. Once the flocculation process is complete silt can be drained. After draining the silt layer the cleaner flocculated water, illustrated in blue, can be drained into the filter via flocculated water drain. Follow steps 1-8 to produce clean water.

1. Fill up flocculation tank with dirty water, be sure ball valves are closed. 2. Shell and grind moringa seeds, using 1 seed per liter, into a powder using a rock or a mortar and pestle. 3. Add a small amount of water to moringa powder such that a thick morninga paste is created. 4. Mix the moringa paste with the water in flocculation tank. 5. Allow flocculation tank to sit overnight, approximately 8 hours, while flocculation occurs. 6. When dirty water is flocculated drain the filthy water out though the filthy drain. 7. Once the filthy water is drained the flocculated water can be drained into the filter. 8. Repeat steps 1-7 for three weeks before testing water. The filter will not hold as much water as the flocculation tank. So water must be added to the filter from the flocculation tank throughout the day. 80 to 100 L should be ran through the filter each day. After running 80-100L of flocculated water though the filter for three weeks the water should be tested for coliform (see water test kit instructions). Upon passing the flocculation test the water can then be consumed. The first days you run water through the filter, air bubbles escape from the sand, and the sand height falls. Add the excess clean sand to ensure that the sand level meets the sand height marked on the barrel.
6.0 Maintenance Maintaining the filter requires minimum work. Most of the filter maintenance is maintaining the biofilm. The most important aspect in maintaining the biofilm is when one adds water. It is important to pour water over the diffuser plate so it drips slowly into the filter. This will ensure no damage is done to the biofilm whenever water is added. If the biofilm is destroyed then repeat first operation steps.

When the flowrate drops to an inconvenient level or below 0.25 liters per minute it is time to clean the filter. A process called wet harrowing is used to clean the top layer of the filter.

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1. 2. 3. 4.

Close the ball valve. Pour 1 bucket into the barrel. Remove diffuser plate. With your hand slowly swirl the water in the filter. Be careful not to touch the sand with your hand. The movement of the water loosens the accumulated dirt and suspends it into the water. 5. Remove the water with a cup. 6. This process can be repeated until most of the dirt is removed. The flowrate should increase considerably.

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Appendix A-1 Air Vent

Diffuser

Barrel

Figure 3: This figure shows an exploded view of the barrel, diffuser plate and vent.

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