1) Charles Frederick Worth was the first modern fashion designer in the mid-19th century, establishing his fashion house in Paris where design and creation was handled by anonymous workers.
2) In the early 20th century, all high fashion originated in Paris, with magazines and department stores copying and adapting these styles for their customers. Paul Poiret transformed silhouettes in the 1900s-1910s from tight corsets to loose, flowing designs.
3) Designers like Coco Chanel in the 1920s helped popularize sportswear and simplified styles like the little black dress, influencing fashion worldwide.
1) Charles Frederick Worth was the first modern fashion designer in the mid-19th century, establishing his fashion house in Paris where design and creation was handled by anonymous workers.
2) In the early 20th century, all high fashion originated in Paris, with magazines and department stores copying and adapting these styles for their customers. Paul Poiret transformed silhouettes in the 1900s-1910s from tight corsets to loose, flowing designs.
3) Designers like Coco Chanel in the 1920s helped popularize sportswear and simplified styles like the little black dress, influencing fashion worldwide.
1) Charles Frederick Worth was the first modern fashion designer in the mid-19th century, establishing his fashion house in Paris where design and creation was handled by anonymous workers.
2) In the early 20th century, all high fashion originated in Paris, with magazines and department stores copying and adapting these styles for their customers. Paul Poiret transformed silhouettes in the 1900s-1910s from tight corsets to loose, flowing designs.
3) Designers like Coco Chanel in the 1920s helped popularize sportswear and simplified styles like the little black dress, influencing fashion worldwide.
1) Charles Frederick Worth was the first modern fashion designer in the mid-19th century, establishing his fashion house in Paris where design and creation was handled by anonymous workers.
2) In the early 20th century, all high fashion originated in Paris, with magazines and department stores copying and adapting these styles for their customers. Paul Poiret transformed silhouettes in the 1900s-1910s from tight corsets to loose, flowing designs.
3) Designers like Coco Chanel in the 1920s helped popularize sportswear and simplified styles like the little black dress, influencing fashion worldwide.
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History of Fashion
Design BY Pallavi Joshi Faculty DOLL
The first designer who was not merely a
dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth (1826 1895). He set up his maison couture fashion house in Paris, the clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous people, and high fashion descended from style worn at royal courts. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments.
Early 20 Century th
all high fashion originated in Paris, and to a lesser
extent London. Fashion magazines from other countries sent editors to the Paris fashion shows. Department stores sent buyers to the Paris shows, where they purchased garments to copy (and openly stole the style lines and trim details of others). Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear departments featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores' assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of their targeted customers.
fashion style magazines now include photographs
and became even more influential than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public taste.
Talented illustrators - among them Paul Iribe,
Georges Lepape, Ert, and George Barbier.
most famous of these magazines was
La Gazette du bon ton which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel.
1900s
The outfits worn by the fashionable women of the
'Belle poque' (as this era was called by the French) were similar to those worn in the heyday of the fashion pioneer Charles Worth. Resemble hourglass-shaped style of the 1800s. The curvaceous S-Bend silhouette dominated fashion up until around 1908. The S-Bend corset was very tightly laced at the waist and so forced the hips back. Toward the end of the decade the fashionable silhouette gradually became somewhat more straight and slim, partly due to Paul Poiret's highwaisted, shorter-skirt.
Fashionable hats at the time were either tiny little
confections that perched on top of the head, or large and wide brimmed, trimmed with ribbons, flowers, and even feathers.
The Maison Redfern was the first fashion house to
offer women a tailored suit based directly on its male counterpart and the extremely practical and soberly elegant garment.
1910s
the fashionable silhouette became much more
flexible,fluid and soft than in the 1900s. The couturier Paul Poiret was one of the first designers to transformed harem girls in flowing pantaloons, turbans, and vivid colors and in exotic kimono. Simple felt hats, turbans, replaced the styles of headgear popular in the 1900s. The first real fashion shows were organized during this period in time, by the first female couturier, Jeanne Paquin, who was also the first Parisian couturier to open foreign branches in London, Buenos Aires, and Madrid.
The Venice-based designer Mariano Fortuny y
Madrazo conceived a special pleating process and new dyeing techniques. He gave the name Delphos to his long clinging sheath dresses that undulated with color. Each garment was made of a single piece of the finest silk, its unique color. Changes in dress during World War I were dictated more by necessity than fashion. As more and more women were forced to work, they demanded clothes that were better suited to their new activities. By 1915 fashionable skirts had risen above the ankle and then later to mid-calf.
1920s
Soon after the First World War, a radical change
came about in fashion. Corsets were abandoned and women borrowed their clothes from the male wardrobe and chose to dress like boys. A bustless, waistless silhouette emerges supported by feather boas, embroidery, and showy accessories. The hat was widely-worn and sportswear became popular with both men and women during the decade, with designers like Jean Patou and Coco Chanel popularizing the sporty and athletic look.
The great couturire Coco Chanel was a major
figure in fashion at the time, as much for her magnetic personality as for her chic and progressive designs. Chanel helped popularize the bob hairstyle, the little black dress, and the use of jersey knit for women's clothing and also elevated the status of both costume jewelry and knitwear. Two other prominent French designers of the 1920s were Jeanne Lanvin and Jean Patou.
The Lanvin style embraced the look of the time,
with its skillful use of complex trimmings, dazzling embroideries, and beaded decorations in light, clear, floral colors that eventually became a Lanvin trademark. By 1925 Lanvin produced many different products, including sportswear, furs, lingerie, men's fashion, and interior designs. The style of Jean Patou was never mainstream, but full of originality and characterized by a studied simplicity which was to win him fame, particularly in the American markets. Many of his garments, with their clean lines, geometric and Cubist motifs, and mixture of luxury and practicality.
In menswear there was a growing mood of informality,
among the Americans especially, which was mirrored in fashions that emphasized youthfulness and relaxation.
Short suit jackets replaced the old long jackets of the
past which were now only worn for formal occasions. Men had a variety of sport clothes available to them, including sweaters and short pants, commonly known as knickers.
For evening wear a short tuxedo was more fashionable
than the tail-coat, which was now seen as somewhat old-fashioned. The London cut, with its slim lines, loosefitting sleeves, and padded shoulders, perfected by the English tailor Scholte, was very popular.