Skincare Cosmetics
Skincare Cosmetics
Skincare Cosmetics
CARE
COSMETI
CS
BY,
JOAN
VIJETHA.R
II1
SEM,M.PH
CONTENT
INTRODUCTION
STRUCTURE OF SKIN
CLASSIFICATION OF SKIN COSMETICS
CONCLUSION
SUMMARY
REFERENCES
2
INTRODUCTION
Cosmetics arise from a Greek word kosmeticos which means adorn.
If any material used for beautification or improvement of appearance
is known as cosmetics.
In the last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased in among
in females and males The cosmetics are external preparation are
meant to be applied to external parts of the body .
In other words they may be applied to skin, hair and nails for the
purpose of covering colouring, softening, cleansing , nourishing ,and
protection.
SKIN
Skin is the external barrier of the body,
both physical and immunological
skin is the largest organ of the body, it
constitutes about 16% of body weight
its total surface area is about 1.2-2.2 m 2
function:
protection, sensory reception, excretion
and thermoregulation
SKIN STRUCTURE
SKIN PHYSIOLOGY
The skin is the outer most layer of the body. It is
constituted of 2 layers :
Epidermis:
Stratum corneum : It consist of epidermal cells lipophilic
nature The membrane provides about 10 -15 layers of
flattened keratinized dead cells It is 10 um when it is dry.
But It can take up moisture up to 15 -20 % When
occlusive dressing / cream applied over the skin prevent
the evaporation of water It plays a role in controlling the
percutaneous absorption of chemical substance
Sebaceous gland
Oil is produced in the sebaceous gland , this production is
stimulated by hormones. Oil flows into the hair follicle then onto the
skin surface
Skin Functions
Epidermis barrier
Waterproofs
Protect from UV
Dermis
Sweat glands
Blood vessels
Nerve endings
9
10
CLASSIFICATION OF
SKIN COSMETICS
SKIN
CREAM
POWDER
SKIN
COLOURANTS
1.LIPSTICK 2.ROUGES
1.POWDER AND
COMPACT ROUGES.
2.ANHYDROUSCREAM
ROUGES
3.EMULSION CREAM
ROUGES.
4.LIQUID ROUGES
SUNBURN
PRODUCT
1.SUNSCREEN
2.PALLIATIVE
3.SIMULATIVE
12
SKIN CREAM
Creams are semisolid emulsions containing
mixture of oil and water. There consistency
varies between liquids and solids.
13
1.CLEANSING CREAM
They are used for the purpose of removing makeup, remove
the dirt on the skin and to clean the secretion
of skin form the face and neck respectively.
PROPERTIES:
How to apply?
They are applied on face and neck with the help
of finger tips. Then the fingers are rotated upward
on the skin for spreading purpose. Tissue paper
or cotton wool is used to remove the residue of
the cream.
15
QTY
Mineral oil(lubricant)
28g
14g
Acetoglyceride(luster)
2.5g
Petroleum jelly(lubricant)
7.5g
beeswax(emollient)
15g
Borax(buffer)
1g
Water(vehicle)
32g
Preservative
q.S
perfume
q.s
16
Liquefying type
This type of creams consist of a mixture of
oil and water which are translucent in
nature. They are anhydrous creams with
thixotropic character i.e. they liquefy when
applied on the skin.
INGREDIENTS
QTY
Mineral oil(lubricant)
80g
Petrolatum(protective agent)
15g
Ozokerite wax(humectant)
5g
Preservative
q.S
perfume
q.S
17
2.COLD CREAM
These type of creams are water-in-oil
type of emulsions. They produce cooling sensation by
the evaporation of water, after their application on to the
skin, hence known as cold creams. They should
possess emollient action and the layer left on the skin
after application should be non-occlusive.
INGREDIENTS
QTY
White beeswax(emollient)
20g
Mineral oil(lubricant)
50g
Distilled water(vehicle)
28.8g
Borax(buffer)
0.7g
Perfume
0.5g
18
3.VANISHING CREAM
Properties:
1.It should have high melting point.
2. It should be pure white in color.
3. It should possess very little
Odour.
INGREDIENTS
QTY
Stearic acid(lubricant)
17g
Sodium carbonate
0.5g
0.5g
Glycerin(humectant)
6g
Water(vehicle)
7g
Alcohol(antiseptic)
4.5g
Perfume
0.5g
20
4.FOUNATION CREAM
Foundation creams vary widely in viscosity
and are available in the form of pourable
lotions to thicker creams. These creams
are prepared by incorporating powders
like titanium dioxide, kaolin, bentonite and
pigments
21
Properties:
1.They provide emollient base or foundation to skin.
They are applied before applying face powder or
other make-up preparation.
2.They should be easily spread on the skin.
3.They should be non-greasy in nature.
4.They should be capable of leaving a non-occlusive
film on skim after application.
They are of two types:
1-Pigmented foundation creams.
2-Unpigmented foundation cream.
22
INGREDIENTS
QTY
Lanolin(emollient)
2g
Cetyl alcohol
0.50g
Stearic acid(lubricant)
10g
0.40g
Propylene glycol(humectant)
8g
Water(vehicle)
79.10g
Perfume
q.s
Preservative
q.s
23
Properties:
1.They should be easy to apply.
2.They helps in softening or imparting emollient
effect to hands.
3.They should not leave behind sticky film after
their application.
4.They should not interfere with perspiration of
the skin as it may reduce its bio availability.
5.Perfume and color should be added in cream
preparation for pleasant smell and
appearance.
25
INGREDIENTS
QTY
4g
Mineral oil(lubricant)
2g
Stearic acid(lubricant)
3g
Emulsifying wax(emulsifier)
0.275g
Lanolin(emollient)
2.5g
Glycerin(humectant)
3g
Triethanolamine(emulsifying agent)
1g
Water(vehicle)
84.225g
Perfume
q.S
Presevation
q.s
26
27
28
Properties:
1.These creams are formulated with fatty
substance which helps in their easy spreading
on the skin.
2.These creams help in providing occlusive
layer to the skin, which reduce the rate of
water loss from the transepidermal layer. The
occlusive layer is also responsible for
providing moisturizing effect on the skin.
29
INGREDIENTS
QTY
Beeswax(emollient)
8g
Mineral oil(lubricant)
15g
Lanolin oil(emollient)
7.5g
10g
2g
Borax(buffer)
0.5g
Water(vehicle)
35g
Perfume
q.s
Preservative
q.s
Antioxidant
q.s
30
7.All-purpose\sport cream
These creams are used by sportspersons
and also by people who do outdoor activities,
hence called as sports creams.
Properties:
1.They are oily in nature but non-greasy.
2.They provide protective film to the skin.
3.They make the rough surface of the skin
smooth.
31
32
INGREDIENTS
QTY
WOOL ALCOHOL(EMMOLLIENT)
2.5g
6g
Mineral oil(lubricant)
21g
Petroleum jelly(lubricant)
5g
Glycerin(humectant)
5g
0.7g
water(vehicle)
59.8g
Perfume
q.s
Preservative
q.s
Butylated hydroxyanisol(antioxidant)
q.s
33
FILLING
34
PACKAGING
35
EVALUATION
IN-VITRO METHODS:
Tensile strength tester :- For determining the tensile property
of the excised stratum corneum of the skin.
Hargans gas bearing electro dynamometer(GBE) :- Helpful in
determining and monitoring the viscoelastic behaviour of the
skin.
Gravimetric analytical method:- Helps in establishing
relationship between water content present in stratum corneum
and relative humidity.
Thermal analytical method:- Various methods like DSC, TMA
and TGA are used in order to provide information about the
effect of temperature which cause changes in stratum
corneum .
36
IN-VIVO METHODS:
1) Transpirometry :-Helps in measuring trans epidermal
water loss of the skin which helps in providing
information on moisturizing potential.
2) Scanning electron microscopy :- Skin replicas are
used in this method to know the effects of topical
preparations on the skin condition i.e dry and rough skin.
3) Sensitivity test :-These test are performed in order to
measure the irritancy, sensitization potential and
phototoxicity of the skin.
37
POWDER
The main property of face powder is to impart
smooth finish to the skin, masking of minor
visible imperfection, masking of shine due to
moisture or grease.
Powder are considered as one of the important
products of skin care preparation.
The a widely used by both men and women
38
CHARACTERISTICS
It should possess good covering powder in
order to hide blemishes present on the skin.
It should remain on the skin for a long period
of time.
It should be able to impart peach like
appearance to the skin.
It should possess good absorbent property.
It should remove the shine present on the
skin as well as around the nose.
It should be able to produce transparency
effect.
39
Properties:
1.It should not be hard in nature.
2.It should have less solubility in water and
mixtures of fat.
3.It should be non-toxic in nature.
4.It should not be irritant to the skin.
5.It should be chemically stable.
40
1.FACE POWDER
INGREDIENTS
LIGHT
MEDIUM
HARD
Talc(slip character)
63g
39.7g
20g
Kaolin(covering material)
20g
39.5g
20g
Calcium carbonate(absorbent)
5g
5g
39g
5g
7g
15g
5g
7g
Magnesium carbonate(absorbent)
1g
1g
5g
colour
0.5g
0.2g
0.5g
perfume
0.5g
0.6g
0.5g
42
COMPACTS
Loose powder or dry powder are
compressed in form of cake along with
binders by compaction process, in order to
form compact powders.
Compact powder are applied with the help
of powder puff.
The pressure is used for the compaction
Process which is very important
In this type of formulation.
43
QTY
Talc(slip char)
69g
Kaolin(covering
material)
18g
Titanium dioxide
8g
Zinc stearate(slip
char)
5g
Colour, perfume
Q.s
binder
Q.s
INGREDIENTS
QTY
1g
Glycerol(emulsion binder)
5g
Water(vehicle)
94g
preservative
Qs
44
INGREDIENTS
QTY
Talc(slip char)
75g
10g
5g
Magnesium carbonate(absorbent)
5g
Aluminum stearate
4g
Boric acid(antiseptic)
0.3g
perfume
0.7g
46
Evaluation tests
shade test- The variation of colour shade is determined and
controlled
colour dispersion test- with the help of magnifying glass,
segregation or bleeding of colour is observed.
Pay-off test- check the adhesive property of powder with the
puff, mainly used for compact powder.
Flow property test- Measured by measuring the angle of
repose. Mainly for body powder.
Particle size determination- with the help of microscope or seive
analysis.
Abrasive character
Moisture content-can be determine by using this formula,
Moisture content(%)= weight of water in sample X 5 weight of
dry sample
47
SKIN COLOURENT
1.ROUGE
Rouge are one of the form of skin colorants or
beauty aid. They help in altering the appearance
of the skin which in turn enhance attractiveness
They are available in various shades of
colours,texture and lustre.
They should not damage the skin.
48
CHARACTERISTICS:
1.Smooth texture
2.Evenly distributed colour
3.Good covering power
4.Ease of application
5.Perfect blending on skin
6.Good adhesiveness
7.Ease of removal without residual stain
8.Well formed cake which will not flake,
crack or crumble or be too hard.
49
Classification:
50
QTY
8.3g
14,5g
Talc(slip char)
55g
Pigment
14g
perfume
2g
51
QTY
Beeswax(emollient)
16g
Petroleum jelly(lubricant)
4g
Castor oil(adhesive)
54g
Paraffin oil(lubricant)
11g
Lanolin(emollient)
5g
Lakes(colour)
10g
Perfume, pigment
q.s
52
Emulsion rouges
They are one of the widely used popular
preparations as they are easy to apply and are
available in the form of cold cream or
vanishing cream.
53
Liquid rouges
This type of preparation contain solution of
hydro-alcoholic colour.
1-easy to apply.
2-produce good effect on skin.
3-dry quickly.
4-should not cause an harm to the skin.
INGREDIENTS
QTY
Erythrosine(colour)
0.5g
Propylene glycol
20g
Ethyl alcohol
10g
Rose water
69.5g
54
EVALUATION
Melting point- It is determined by capillary tube
method
Colour dispersion test- It is checked under
microscope and no particle, above 50, should be
there
Stability test- product is kept at over 40o c for a one
month period noting the changes
Compatibility with container- Compatibility of the
product with the plastic is to be checked.
Sedimentation rate test
55
2.LIPSTICK
Lipstick may be defined as dispersion of
the colouring matter In a base consisting of a suitable
blend of oils, fats and waxes with suitable perfumes
and flavors, moulded in form of sticks to impart
attractive gloss and colour, when applied on lips.
Lipstick provide moist appearance to lips
accentuating them and disguising their defects.
56
Characteristics
It should efficiently cover lips with colour and
impart a gloss which would last long.
It should show a smear proof colouring
effect.
It should not be gritty.
It should dry easily.
The stick should not dry.
It should be safe and non irritating.
It should adhere firmly to the lip
57
evaluation
Melting point-The determination of melting point is done in order to
determine the storage characteristics of the product.
Breaking point-To determine the strength and hardness of the lipstick.
Determination of thixotropic character-to determine the uniform
viscosity of base.
Microbiological tests
Test for rancidity-:- Can be done by using hydrogen peroxide and
determining its peroxide number.
Test for application force
Stability
Determination of surface characteristics
Determination of colour dispersion.
58
SUNBURN PRODUCTS
Exposure to sunrays produce both beneficial
and harmful effects. Cosmetic products which
prevent the skin from the deleterious effects of
sun like sunburns and sun tan are collectively
called sunburn products.
59
Beneficial effects:
60
Harmful effects:
IMMEDIATE
TANNING
3000-6000A0
IN ONE HOUR
DELYED
TANNING
2900-3200A0
IN 5-9 DAYS
TRUE TANNING
WITHIN 2DAYS
REACH
MAXIMUM
LEVEL WITHIN 23WEEKS
61
PROPERTIES
They provide protection to the skin in form of a layer. This
layer helps in preventing sun rays reaching the skin either
by absorbing or reflecting.
They help in filtering the sun rays. Tis is done by absorbing
rays which have wave length range of 289m-320m. UV
rays and higher wavelength rays are allowed to reflect.
The products containing biological substances, histamines
ect. prevent the symptoms of inflammation caused by sun
rays.
The products containing dioxyacetone,8methoxypsoralene(10-20mg internally)ect.,help in
accelerating the process of tanning
62
CLASSIFICATION
SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS
They are considered as one of the important preparation of
cosmetics. They provide protection against sunburn .
They also help in absorbing the portion of erythema on
the skin caused by sun's radiant energy
In winter high proportion of UV rays are reflected than
summer.
63
Properties:
They should be able to absorbing light, which
has wavelength in range 280-320m.
They should be stable in order to withstand
heat, light and perspiration.
They should be non=toxic and neutral in
nature.
They should not cause any irritation.
64
INGREDIENTS
QTY
8g
Tween(emulsifying agent)
7.5g
Mineral oil(lubricant)
2g
Spermaceti
5g
Glycerin(humectant)
5g
Water(solvent)
72.5g
Perfume,preservative
q.Ss
65
PALLIATIVE PRODUCT
These products help in treating irritation and other
problem such as steam burn ect.
PROPERTIES
-They should be antiseptic in nature in order to treat
bacterial infection, which is secondary effect of sunburn.
-they should be aqueous solution or emulsions(o/w)
-They should provide both protective and cooling effect.
-They should be non-greasy and non-oily preparation
66
INGREDIENTS
OTY
Calamine(emollient)
15g
5g
Camphor
1g
Alcohol(antiseptic)
10g
Glycerin(humectant)
10g
Rose water(vehicle)
59g
Methyl paraben
q.s
67
SIMULATIVE/ARTIFICIAL SUNTAN
PRODUCTS
INGREDIENTS
QTY
4g
Ethyl alcohol(antiseptic)
28g
Sorbital syrup
3g
1g
Methyl paraben
1g
Allantoin(soothing agent)
0.3g
Water(solvent)
60.7g
perfume
2g
70
EVALUATION
Spectrophotometric evaluation :-To evaluate the u.v
71
M SKIN BLEACH
CREAM
most
by pigments,
melanins
INGREDIENT
QTY
Hydrogen peroxide
8.0%
EDTA
0.5%
Hydrogen quinoline
0.1%
Ethanol
3.0%
Propylene glycol
5.0%
Water
To make 100%
Preservative
q.s
73
74
INGREDIENT
QTY
Paraffin wax
60.0%
Microcrystalline wax
12.0%
Mineral oil
22.0%
Cetyl alcohol
4.0%
Isopropyl alcohol
0.5%
bentonite
1.5%
75
BATH PREPARATION
Bath preparation are formulated for different
purposes. A bath preparation may serve
severs or all the following purposes:
To give the user refreshing felling.
To soften hard water.
To impart pleasing effect to bath, by addition
of colour and perfume.
To clean the body of dirt and colour.
76
BATH SALTS
There are two main type of bath salts;
-those which primarily impart colour &
perfume to the bath.
-Those which soften hard water facilitating
cleansing in addition to imparting colour
and perfume to the bath.
Sodium chloride
97.5%
perfume
2.5%
colour
q.s
77
BATH POWDER
Bath powder can be prepared either form
sodium carbonate(dry) or sodium
sesquicarbonate. A small amount of alkyl
sulphate salt or borax can also be included in
the formulation.
Sodium carbonate(dried)
90%
10%
q.s
78
FOAM BATH
35%
Alkyloamide
3%
Perfume
5%
Water
100%
q.s
80
BATH OIL
Dry skin affects both young and old. Mild drying
causes rough skin and its scaling. In old age
cutaneous and subcutaneous layers becomes thin
due to atrophic changes.
Sebaceous and sweat glands also slow down there
by making the skin more dry and flaky.
Bath oil is classified into four main categories:
INGREDIENT
QTY
Isopropyl myristate
35%
Mineral oil
35%
Diethy phthalate
10%
Perfume
20%
colour
q.s
82
CONCLUSION
83
SUMMARY
84
REFERENCES
Hand book on cosmetics by S.K Singh,pg-201-220.
Cosmetics-formulation, manufacturing & quality contral
by PP Sharma, ed2005,pg-131-291.
Cosmetic technology bySanju nanda, Arun nanda, Roop
k khar, ed-2011,pg-238-306.
A seminar on SKIN CARE PRODUCTS. By:- V arun M
Gandhi(ppt)
A seminar by K.Senthil.(ppt).
.
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