Functional finishes:

Water repellent
Flame retardant
Soil repellant
Anti Bacterial finish
Anti static finish (Comfort finish)
Absorbency finishes (Comfort finish)

Presented by:
Ms. T. Srivani,
Assistant Professor, DFT

Special purpose or functional finishes

are applied to Fabrics to enhance performance in a
specific area.

Although these finishes usually do not alter the

appearance of fabrics, however may pose some
consumer problem and add to product cost, but their
impact on performance may be difficult for consumers
to recognize.
Many functional finishes are topical-a chemical
compound is added to the surface of the fabric
But it may not penetrate to the interior of fibres or
yarns. The effect of some of these finishes may be
invisible or beyond consumer perception, especially at
the point of purchase.

Appearance retention
Finishes
Soil or stain Repellency
Anti Pilling finishes

Soil or stain Repellency :

Soil release finishes reduce the degree of soiling of the
fabric by repelling the soil or by preventing formation of
a bond between soil and fabric.
They improve a fabrics performance in resisting soil,
releasing soil and retaining whiteness by resisting redeposition of soil from the wash water.
The fabric cannot be made soil resistant but a type of
finish is given to the fabric so that during washing, the
accumulated soil on the fabric can be easily removed
from the fabric
This type of finish is known as soil repellent, stain
resistant or anti soil or anti stain finishes.

Purpose
This type of finish is mainly given to synthetic fibres.
Many cotton/polyester blends are treated to be durable
press.
Untreated cotton is hydrophilic and has excellent oily soil
release performance, it releases oily soil when laundered
Since polyester is hydrophobic and oleo-philic, it must be
spot treated to remove oily soil from fabrics.

Controlling factors:
It should not affect the fastness properties of dyed
material
It should not affect other physical properties such as
strength, feel, drape etc.
It should be fast to light, wash and laundering

Factors governing soiling:

As the static charge increases, soiling increases
As the moisture regain increases, soiling decreases
As the temperature increases, soiling increases.
As the size of soiling particle increases, soiling decreases
As smoothness of surface increases, soiling decreases
As the denier of fabric increases, soiling decreases
As the twist in the yarn increases, soiling increases

Methods of bringing soil / stain release property:

1.Mercerization of cotton
2.Using film forming substances like CMC, PVA, Starch
3.Converting the fibre and make it hydrophilic
4.Using metal oxides like silica, alumina, Ba So 4, Ti O2
5.Using acrylic polymers with PE, DEC, PE emulsions etc.
6.Using silicone emulsions, which are widely used today

Soil repellent or soil release finishes are mechanically or

chemically bonded to the surface. Many are organic
silicon substances.
These finishes include Scotch guard & Scotch release by
3M, Visa by Milliken, Teflon by Dupont and Zepel.
There are several stain / soil repellents, which can be
applied to the fabric or finished textile product by the
consumer

Process of finishing PET fibre ( Polyester):

Polyester can be padded with a solution containing polyethylene glyco

and sodium hydroxyde by PAD DRY-CURE method
PAD DRY-CURE polyester with 1-3 % of Cirrasol PT

Polyester yarn can be padded with 10% of Na OH at 60o C for 10 minut

PAD DRY
Pad polyester with phosphoric acid, PAD DRY

For Polyester / Woollen blends:

Soil release agents and fluorescent brighteners are pad-drycured
at an expression of 60 percent, followed by drying at a
temperature of
70-90 C and then curing at 180 210o C for 20 seconds.
There are several companies that can be hired by design
firms or consumers to add a chemically protective soil and
stain resistant finish on site to products such as carpeting,
upholstery, wall coverings etc.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROL FINISHES

Anti microbial finishes
Insect and moth control finishes
Mildew proof
Rot proof

Anti microbial finishes

Anti microbial finishes inhibit the growth of bacteria
and other odor causing germs, prevent decay and
damage from perspiration, control the spread of
disease and reduce the risk of infection following
injury.
Antimicrobial finishes are also known as anti bacterial,
bacteriostatic, germicidal, perma -fresh, anti-odor or
anti septic finishes.
Antimicrobial protection is provided by chemical
finishes in two different aspects.
1.Protection of textile users against pathogenic or
odor causing micro organisms
2.Protection of textile itself from damage against
mould, mildew, rot etc.

Anti microbial finishes are particularly important for

industrial fabrics that are exposed to weather.
Fabrics used for awnings, screens, tents, tarpaulins,
ropes etc.
Home furnishings such as carpeting, shower
curtains, mattress backing and upholstery also
require anti microbial finishes
Antimicrobial finishes are also applied on intimate
apparel, under wear, socks and athletic wear to
prevent unpleasant odors.

Requirements:
These finishes should be
safer for consumers and producers
easy to apply
durable to repeated washings &
not adversely affect the fabric

Mechanism:
The chemicals used are surface reactants such as
quarternary ammonium compounds, zirconium
peroxides or N-halamines for cotton fabrics.
Liquid solutions are applied by padding or chemicals
may be added to spinning solutions or diaper services
add the finish during each laundering
These finishes include chemical treatment, gas
treatment and irradiation treatment. The anti
microbial agent is slowly released on the fabric
surface or in the interior of the fabric
The second type of anti microbial finish consists of
molecules that are chemically bound to fibre surfaces
Antimicrobial finishes that control the growth and
spread of microbes are called biostats

Insect and moth control finishes:

Moths and carpet beetles are likely to damage protein fibres
such as wool.
Insects, spiders, silver fish, crickets, cockroaches damage
textiles.
In most cases an insect infestation occurs when there is soil
as a food source.
Manufactured fibres are not immune, but natural fibres are
more likely to be damaged by insects
Insect and moth control finishes are also known as
fumigants, insecticides or insect repellent finishes

Application:
Insect resistant finishes are most commonly applied
during dyeing.
When applying insect resist finishes to wool/nylon blends,
care must be taken to make a choice. Chlorophenyloid
derivatives exhaust nylon
Application of insect resistant finishes during scouring is
also possible.
Ex: Wool yarns for carpets, blankets, apparel and
upholstery, but this method do not allow finish to
penetrate completely in to the fibres
It can also be applied by combining the finish with
spinning lubricants. This method produces yarns with
only a superficial treatment with much lower fastness
than applications during dyeing and scouring.

Cautious spray of chemicals or dipping method is used for

protection and preservation of wool and silk exhibits in museums
Mitin FF, Eulan CN, Permethrin has excellent stability, but
is not fast to wet finishing or laundering. Silico fluorides
are used as sprays

Requirements:
Exposure to light as well as mild washing, dry cleaning
and shampooing can reduce the effectiveness
Finish baths must be disposed off
Care must be taken to prevent accidental release of these
poisons to the envoronment.

Mildew Proofing:
The finish that protects cellulosic fibres susceptible to
mildew attack is known as mildew proofing.

Purpose:
The finish is important for untreated fabrics that become
stained, malodorous and that is deteriorated by fungus.
Ex: Surgical cloths, bed sheets, under wear etc.
Temperature of 25o C to 35o C and high humidity at a Ph
of 4-7 are favorable for their growth.

Requirements:
They should not affect the fastness of dyed fabrics
Should not affect the physical properties of fabric
Durable and non-durable finish can be produced
Finish should be fast to light, wash and dry cleaning

Chemicals:
Many antiseptic substances have been used to prevent
growth of mildew in cotton goods.
Shower curtains or other cottons can be proofed at home
by soaking in very soapy water, then without rinsing
dipping in Cu SO4 solution
Anti-septic such as boric acid and carboxlic acid are also
used
One compound that is not easily washed out is a 0.05%
solution of phenyl mercuric acetate in water
Phenols, Cresols, Chlorophenols, salts of zinc, copper and
mercury are also used
PAD DRY CURE is the process at a concentration of
0.5%.

Rot proofing:
Rot proofing has been defined as the protection from
biological decay of textiles exposed to moisture with or
without contact in soil or other contaminant

Purpose:
Cellulosic textiles are more susceptible to rotting like
jute, hemp and flax as they are attacked by bacteria.
Bed sheets, surgical cloth, under wear etc. made out of
cellulosic fibres need to be protected from bacteria.
When the material is exposed to high moisture content
or left damp for prolonged period there is every chance
for growth of bacteria on it.

The organisms which attack the textile material are of two ty

1.Moulds or fungi

2. Bacteria

The attack is increased if the material contains starches, gums, dextr

Flours etc.

Even the natural impurities present in grey cotton itself serve as food
Therefore, the first step to produce rot proof material would be to
scour all impurities and avoid finishes

The chemicals used for rot proofing should be non-toxic to human bei
Should have no objectionable odor
Should not discolour the material
Should not affect the handle of goods.

Finishing agents:
Compounds of antimony, cadmium, cobalt and copper have
been used as outdoor fungicides
Tellurides are applied to the fibre by padding using a binder
and emulsifier with water followed by drying
Cupra ammonium solution is used on canvas, tarpaulins
etc.
Emulsions of Zinc or copper naphthanate is known as
Micro-nil.
Zirconium compounds can also be used

Penta chlorophenyl laurate is an effective rot

proofing agent but degrades cotton on exposure to
light.
N-Methylol & glyoxal are effective rot proofs for
canvas, awnings, lawn & deck furniture and other
outdoor applications.
PAD DRY CURE is the process sequence.

Anti static finishes

These finishes are important in both production and use of
fabrics.
Static buildup cause fabrics to cling to machinery in
factory and to people, Attract dust, soil, lint and produce
sparks and shocks.
Controlling static buildup on natural fibre fabrics is done
by increasing humidity and using lubricants, but this does
not work with thermoplastic fibre fabrics.

Anti static property can be brought out by

Reducing the charge
Increasing surface conduction power
Making fibre hydrophilic

Most of these finishes are quarternary ammonium

compounds.
Silicon emulsions, PE Glycols, Acrylic polymers etc. can
also be used.
Infact silicon emulsion when used produces antistatic
property by reducing friction with added advantage of
soil release property, softness and suppleness etc.
Process: PAD-DRY-CURE
Anti stat PP is used on polyester fabric in 5-10gpl
concentration.
It is added in the finishing bath itself along with other
additive.

Methods of application:
1. By incorporating non-durable antistatic agents into
polymer during manufacturing of fibres
2. By applying either non-durable or durable agents
on the filament yarn or fabrics by exhaust method or
PAD-DRY-CURE method.
3. The moisture regain of fibre plays an important role
in static dissipation.
The higher the regain, lower the static accumulation.

Absorbency finishes:
Although cellulose fibres of cotton, linen and rayon have
good absorbency, Sometimes, it is desired that they
become absorbent.
Water absorbent finishes increase the moisture
absorbency of the fabric with increased drying time.
Appropriate application of ammonium compounds
modifies the cellulose to become more absorbent,
provides greater comfort and usefulness for such
applications as undergarments and towels
A more radical effect, which will permit fibres to absorb
more than 30 times their weight in liquid was developed
by V.T. Stanett & J.L. Williams.

Process & Mechanism:

Grafting water absorbent hydrophilic molecules to a
material made of cellulose fibre by a chemical or
radiation process
Subsequently, soaking the material in a chemical bath
which de crystallizes the rigid parts of a fibre allowing
additional water to penetrate the amorphous area.
In addition, the process separates the fibrous molecules,
making the structure more susceptible to swelling.
The degree of absorbency can be controlled by the
strength of the solvent or time of contact.

Applications:

Towels
Diapers
Napkins
Under garments
Sports wear
Health care products
Hospital supplies etc.

Absorbency of Nylon:
The absorbency of Nylon 6 and Nylon 6,6 may be
increased by treating them in a solution of Nylon 8 which
is more absorbent.
This is known as Nylonizing. Another finish used to
increase nylon absorbency is Nylonex.
Hysorb is a compound of surfactants and synthetic
resins used to give absorbent properties to fabrics of
man made fibres.

Absorbency in Polyester fabrics:

Processes such as Fantessa applied to polyester fabrics
render the fibres adsorptive
Although the fibres do not absorb more water, they do
wick or adsorb the water along their surfaces as a
result of change in molecular structure of surface.
This capillary action eliminates the disadvantage of
clamminess in treated fabrics making them more
suitable for such uses as sports wear, blouses, dresses
and shirts.
There are no adverse effects on other characteristics of
the fibre.

Anti pilling finishes:

Pilling is a phenomenon exhibited by fabrics formed from
spun yarns or staple fibres.
Pills are masses of tangled fibres that appear on fabric
surfaces during wear and laundering. Loose fibres are pulled
from yarns and are formed in to spherical balls by the
functional forces of abrasion.
The entangled fibres are held to the fabric surface by longer
fibres called anchor fibres.
Fabrics made from cotton, wool or rayon do not usually
display pilling as the anchor fibres are easily broken and
falls down. In case of blended fabrics, pilling is severe.

Factors influencing pilling:

Fabric and yarn construction
Tighter constructions show less problem than do
looser constructions
Use of staple fibres
Blending of Hydrophobic fibres with hydrophilic fibres
Use of soft twisted yarns in fabric construction
Exposure to severe abrasion.

Anti Pilling Treatments:

1.Mechanical Treatments:
Cropping, Shearing & Singeing are included in this
category. The fabric is first sheared and then
cropped.
The process is repeated 2-3 times.
In singeing the protruding fibre ends are burnt,
which is
usually done before dyeing as it causes
speckled
appearance.
Heat setting at 150O C for 5 minutes reduces pilling
which is carried out after singeing and before
washing off.

2. Chemical treatments:
The fabric is treated with 2 gpl of caustic soda solution
at 60O C
for 30 min, washed, dried and heat set.
In another method, the fabric is treated with 3.5%
Ammonia solution at 130O C for a few minutes followed
by washing and drying.
In both these methods, the strength of fibre is reduced
resulting in lower pilling.
Another simple method of reducing piling tendency is
to apply a solution of adhesive or resin to make the
fibres cling more strongly to each other in yarn and
fabric. However, it creates a harsh handle on the fabric.
For this, a 2.6% aqueous emulsion of PVC is applied by
PAD-DRY-CURE Method.

THANK YOU