Hair Care

Products
HAIR STRUCTURE
 Hair is composed primarily of
proteins (88%).
 These proteins are of a hard fibrous
type known as keratin.
 A hair is a specialised outgrowth of
part of the skin called the
epidermis. It has two distinct
parts, the hair follicle and the hair
shaft
 HAIR STRUCTURE
A hair follicle is a tiny cup-shaped pit buried deep in
the fat of the scalp. The follicle is the point from which
the hair grows. It is well supplied with minute blood
vessels, and the blood passing through them nourishes
the growing region
The hair follicle can be divided into two regions.
The hair bulb lies inside the hair follicle. It is a
structure of actively growing cells, which eventually
produce the long fine cylinder of a hair.
New cells are continuously produced in the lower part
of the bulb. As they grow and develop they steadily
push the previously formed cells upwards.
Special cells in the hair bulb produce the pigment
that colors the hair. The pigment is called melanin, and
these cells are known as melanocytes.
HAIR CHEMISTRY

 When the hair is in its normal unstretched state, it is

referred to as A of alpha kertin.
 The original configuration of the hair is held in place by the
bonding found in the cortex layers of the hair.
 There are four types bond.
 The Hydrogen Bond
 The Salt Bond
 The Cystine Bond
 The Sugar Bond
HAIR LIFE CYCLE

 Hair is actually dead material when it leaves its root. The

root of a hair fiber sticks in a bag in the skin. The fiber is
pushed out of this bag about 0.35mm per day, making an
average growth rate of 1cm, or half of an inch, per month.
 There are three phases in the hair life cycle:
 Active growth phase, or anagen phase
 Transition phase, or catagen phase
 Resting phase, or telogen phase
HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
 Hair cleansers:
 Shampoos of various types
 Hair dressings:
 Brilliantine (make the hair lustrous), pomades, hair oils, hair
creams.
 Hair wavers, curlers & straightners:
 Hair waving, cold waving
 Hair tonics:
 Containing sulphur derivatives, vitamins.
 Hair removers:
 Depilatories, epilatories
 Hair dyes & bleaches:
 Shaving preparations: soaps, creams
DEFINITION

 Shampoo is a common hair care product

 Used for the removal of oils, dirt, dandruff,

environmental pollutants and other contaminant
particles that gradually build up in hair.
Shampoo: Ingredients
 The primary ingredient of a shampoo is the detergent, either from an
organic soap or a synthetic.

 Vegetable oil soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, sodium or

triethanolamine alkyl sulfates, sulfated monoglycerides, sulfated oils
and nonionics are typical.

 The concentration used varies with the individual detergent and the
shampoo type and will vary from about 10% to 50%.

 Shampoos usually include modifying agents such as opacifiers,

clarifying agents, antifreezes, conditioning and finishing agents,
sequestrants, thickening agents, proteins, foam builders, and
antidandruff agents. The use level of these modifiers is usually about
1% to 10%.
Function of Shampoo
 Depending on their functions, shampoos are used as cleaning agents
for cosmetic purposes, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents and
keratolytic agents.
Type of Shampoo Key Features
Clarifying Shampoo Contain heavy – duty surfactants. Used to deep clean hair and
remove the gunky build – up of conditioners, sprays, and gels.
Volumizing Shampoo Add body to limp hair. Contain proteins that bond to hair and
“pump it up”
Moisturizing shampoo Best choice for dry, flyaway hair, make split ends look better, pull
moisture onto hair to keep it from getting too dry.
Revitalizing Shampoo Made for color – treated, permed, and damaged hair. Use as a
gentler cleanser, protect color from fading.
Dandruff Shampoo Contain medication that loosens and rinses away those annoying
flakes.
2-in – 1 Shampoo With conditioner, save time.
Swimmer’s Shampoo Remove chlorine and other minerals.
 Qualities of Shampoo
 Easy spreading  Good finish after washing hair
 Easy rinsing  Minimal skin/eye irritation
 Should completely remove  Feels thick and/or creamy
dust or soil, excessive  Good foaming ability
sebum  Slightly acidic (pH LT 7), since a
 No damage to hair basic environment weakens the
 Pleasant fragrance hair by breaking the disulfide
 Low toxicity bonds in hair keratin.
 Good biodegradability
 Effectively wash hair
Factors taking into consideration while
manufacturing
* Safety or non- toxicity
* Ease of distribution & lathering power
* Lustre imparted to hair
* Ease of combing wet hair
* Speed of drying
* Ease of setting dry hair
Shampoo design consideration factor
 The first step to understanding the chemical interactions that
are present at a colloid level in a typical shampoo is to first
understand the parts making up the entire mixture.
 Shampoos rely on a selection of species, which are included in
the design to further a specific design goal.
 Within each of these categories is room for selection to tailor a
product more closely towards the intended audience.
 It is important to design a shampoo with its outcome clearly in
view.
 Desirable qualities for a shampoo are “Lathering in hard or soft
water, easily and completely removable lather, without leaving a
residue. Safe for repeated use, non-irritating, chemically and
physically stable, and not damaging to the eyes”
REQUIREMENT OF A SHAMPOO
 Remove sebum & atmospheric pollutants from the hair & scalp.
 Remove the residues of previously applied hair treatment
 Deliver an optimum level of foam
 Leave the hair in satisfactory condition after rinsing so that it can
be combed easily both in wet & dry state
 Perform as a vehicle for the deposition of beneficial materials
onto the hair & scalp
 Non-toxic & non-irritating to the hair & the scalp
 Non-damaging to the tissues of the eyes if inadvertently
splashed.
Action of shampoos on hair

 The purpose of shampoo is to cleanse the hair.

Three basic component of hair soil
1. Sebum
2. Proteinaceous matter
3. Atmospheric pollutants & residues
 Soil removal
 Mechanism and Theory in Cleaning Process

 The colloid and surface phenomena

in Shampooing
 Action of shampoos on hair
 Shampoo cleans by stripping sebum from the hair. Sebum is an oil secreted by
hair follicles that is readily absorbed by the strands of hair, and forms a
protective layer. Sebum protects the protein structure of hair from damage, but
this protection comes at a cost. It tends to collect dirt, styling products and scalp
flakes.
 Surfactants strip the sebum from the hair shafts and thereby remove the dirt
attached to it.
 While both soaps and shampoos contain surfactants, soap bonds to oils with
such affinity that it removes too much if used on hair. Shampoo uses a different
class of surfactants balanced to avoid removing too much oil from the hair.
 The chemical mechanisms that underlie hair cleansing are similar to that of
traditional soap. Undamaged hair has a hydrophobic surface to which skin lipids
such as sebum stick, but water is initially repelled. The lipids do not come off
easily when the hair is rinsed with plain water. The anionic surfactants
substantially reduce the interfacial surface tension and allow for the removal of
the sebum from the hair shaft. The non-polar oily materials on the hair shaft are
solubilised into the surfactant micelle structures of the shampoo and are
removed during rinsing. There is also considerable removal through a surfactant
and oil "roll up" effect. The foamy effect achieved by massaging shampoo into
the hair is purely aesthetic.
Action of shampoos on hair
 Chemistry of Shampoo: General Composition
 Cleaning agents: the prime ingredients in all shampoos are substances called surfactants.
Responsible for cleaning action and latherring properties, they largely determine the hair’s
condition after shampooing.
 Modifying agents: Shampoos contain far more components other than surfactants. There
are thickeners (xanthan gum), preservatives (parabens), emulsifiers (glycol distearate), color
additives and foam boosters (cocamide monoethanolamine). Some shampoos also include
panthenol, which can diffuse into the hair shaft and bind to proteins, strengthening their
structure. Humectants, which help to retain moisture, also are added. Ethyl alcohol, isopropyl
alcohol and sodium xylene sulfonate can be used to maintain clarity in shampoo.
 pH adjuster: In healthy hair, the cuticle consists of translucent cells overlapping like shingles
on a roof. In damaged hair, these shingles are more open and ragged. As the rough adjacent
hairs rub against each other, transfer of electrons can produce a static electrical charge. The
result is the dreaded affliction of flyaway hair. Ideally, a shampoo should smooth down the
cuticle and cover it with a clean coating of a sebum-like material. The smoothing effect is
readily achieved by controlling the shampoo's acidity. All shampoos, whether they make the
claim or not, are pH balanced. The proper pH range is maintained by addition of buffering
agents, such as citric acid.
 Fragrance: Fragrance oils are added so that hair is left smelling fresh, which attracts
consumers
Good and Bad Ingredients in Shampoo
 In shampoo, some chemical ingredients are rarely degradable or non –
degradable, thus bad for environment, some ingredients are harsh for
eye and skin, and some ingredients are necessaries for cleaning and
conditioning

Good Ingredients
What it is What it does What it's called
Gentle Cleans your hair sodium laureth sulfate and ammonium laureth
Surfactants sulfate
Silicone Conditions Dimethicone, cyclomethicone
Quarternary helps create manageable hair Guar hyroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Ammonium dicetyldimonium chloride, dihyrodenated
Compounds tallow benqylmonium chloride, quaternium 18,
stearalkonium chloride.
Panthenol adds lustre, movement, and keeps in Panthenol
moisture
Proteins good conditioners, but might just wash collagen, elastin
out
Humectants condition and keep moisture in, but are glycerin, sorbitol, glycols, propylene glycol
water-soluble and might just get
washed away
Shampoo fillers
What it is What it does What it's called
Water a large part of all shampoos water, aqua
Preservatives keep out contamination Methylparaben, propylparaben,
phenoxyethanol, DMDM hydantoin, 2-
bromo-2-nitropropate-1, 3-diol,
imidazolidinyl urea
Thickeners make shampoo thicker cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,
hydrogenated lanolin, polyethylene glycol
(PEG), glycol stearate, palmitic acid
Citric Acid keeps the pH level of the citric acid
shampoo balanced
Foam boosters make more lather cocamide MEA, lauramide MEA, lauric
DEA, lauramine oxide, cocamidopropyl
hydroxysultaine, polysorbate 20
Harsh Ingredients
Surfactants that will make matters worse if you Sodium lauryl sulfate, alkyl sodium
are harsh have dry scalp or hair. sulpgate, and sodium oelfin sulfate, TEA-
lauryl sulfate
Some "natural" May cause skin sensitivity on almond extract, allspice, angelica, arnica,
ingredients or your scalp or sun sensitivity balm mint oil, balsam, basil, bergamot,
essential oils chamomile, cinnamon, citrus, clove,
COMPOSITION
 Surfactant (Cleaning agents)
 Preservatives
 Germicidal & antidandruff agents
 Conditioning agents
 Thickening agent
 Color additives
 Perfumes or Fragrance
 pH adjuster
 Sequestrants
 Pearlscent agent or Opacifying agents
 Humectants
 Clarifying agents
Surfactant (Cleaning agents)
 The prime ingredients in all shampoos
 Responsible for cleaning action and lathering properties,
they largely determine the hair’s condition after
shampooing.
 The major types of surfactants are:
 Anionic,
 Cationic,
 Nonionic and
 Amphoteric
 Anionic Surfactants
► Anionic surfactants carry a negative charge when ionized.
► It provides
 a lot of the lather and
 detergency in the shampoo
 excellent cleanings,
 foaming, and
 solubility properties.
► The most commonly used anionic are:
 Sodium laureth sulphate and
 Sodium lauryl sulphate.
► A major disadvantage is that they can be harsh and irritating to the
scalp.
► Frequently, other surfactants and ingredients are added to reduce skin
irritation
 Cationic surfactants
►Cationic surfactants carry positive charge when ionized.
►They are used less frequently due to their dangerous threat
to eyes if used in large quantities.
►The gentleness of shampoo depends on the surfactant
found in its ingredients.
►Consequently they are not easily removed during the
rinsing process and form the basis of conditioning.
►Polyquarternium-10 is one of the most common cationic
conditioners.
 Nonionic surfactants
► Nonionic surfactant has no charge to the molecule.
► Not used as a cleaning agent, but are often used in
combination with the primary cleanser
 to change or modify it’s actions,
 they aid in solubility,
 modifying foam,
 conditioning.

► They can strip the hair and lead to scalp irritation due to
excessive defatting.
► These include laureth-3 or 4, cocamide diethanolamine.
 Amphoteric surfactants
► Carries both positive and negative charges when ionized.
► They are very useful for
• decreasing the irritancy of a formulation
• increasing the active contents level of the product
• quality of the lather produced.

► Each amphoteric surfactant has cationic and anionic charge

groups, positive and negative.
► Most amphoteric shampoo surfactants are used in baby
shampoos, because they are gentle and won’t burn the eyes.
o cocamido propyl betaine,
o cocamido betaine.
 Surfactant Functions in Shampoo
 Cleansing:
 Cleansing is a function of the primary surfactant.
 To be an effective cleansing agent the surfactant system must work
quickly at a relatively low temperature.
 It must be effective in hard and soft water, be able to remove lipids
and other soils and residues left after previous hair treatments and
it must not leave any residues of its own.
 It must be non-toxic and reasonably non-irritant to skin and eyes.
 EX.
 Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS)
 Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)
 Foaming:
 Foam is also a function of the primary surfactant
 Few materials can compete with ALS or SLES for
quick foam.
 Additional materials may depress the foam or make
it creamier and stabilise it.
 Conditioning :
 There are many ways of improving hair conditions.
 SLES and other anionic surfactants leave the hair
feeling dry and difficult to manage.
 The introduction of a suitable secondary surfactant
greatly reduces this.
 Viscosity:
 Products must have sufficient viscosity to stay on the
palm of the hand prior to application but must not come
out of the bottles as a globular lump.
 Anionic systems may be thickened by the addition of
electrolytes or non – ionic compounds.
 Sodium chloride is the materials of common choice.
 Preservatives
 Bacterial attack may lead to break detergency in shampoos results
in discoloration of product.
 Formaldehyde (0.1- 0.15%) : but not compatible with ings.
 Esters of parahydroxy benzoic acid is also used but inactivated in
presence of non-ionic surfactants & not effective against
pseudomonas.
 Sodium benzoate is another preservative used in shampoos. It kills
bacteria, fungi, and yeasts, and works well in acidic mixtures.
 DMDM hydantoin (dimethylodimethyl hydantoin)
 Imidazolidinyl urea (to prevent fungal and bacterial spoilage)
 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol. (bactericide)
Germicidal & antidandruff agents

 Used to prevent microbial infection (germ)

 Treat dandruff
 Germicides:
 quaternary ammonium compounds
 Benzalkonium chloride,
 Cetrimide
 Antidandruff:
 Selenium sulphide,
 Cadmium sulphide,
 Sodium sulphacetamide etc…
Conditioning agents
 Give special conditioning effect to hair
 Example:
 lanolin, oils,
 natural products
 Herbal extract,
 Egg,
 Amino acids,
 Lecithin.
Thickening agent

 Used to make shampoo, viscous for easy handling & minimize wastage while
pouring
 Example.
 Alginates,
 PVA,
 MC,
 PEG,
 Colloidal silicates

 Sometimes suitable combination of surfactant is also used to make preparation

viscous
 Example: Sulphonated castor oil + Sulphonated olive oil
Color additives

 Preferred by several people

 Used by some manufacturer only
 Nowadays commonly used
 Only certified colors are used
 Used to produce attractive impact
 Colors used should be water soluble.
Perfumes

 Used to have an after-use fragrance on the hair

 Mask the odor of the other ingredients, particularly
detergents
 Various perfumes are used in concentration of 0.3 -
1.0%
 pH balance
 Most shampoos are made slightly acidic, to keep the
cuticle smooth and lying flat on the hair shaft.
 Ingredients like citric acid are added to acidify the
shampoo.
 As the shampoo mixes with the water in the shower or
bath, or mixes with dirt on the hair, it can become less
acidic as the acids mix with alkaline water or dirt.
 A compound that releases more acidifying ions when the
acidity gets low, or absorbs acid when the acidity gets too
high, is called a buffer.
 A typical buffering agent used in shampoo is sodium
citrate.
Sequestrants

 They form water soluble complex with Ca + + & Mg + +

 Prevent the formation of insoluble salts of soaps or
detergents by these two divalent ions present in water
 Examples:
 Sodium salt of EDTA
Pearlscent agent or Opacifying agents

 Used to shine the hairs

 Used to brighten the hairs
 Examples:
 4 - methyl coumarins
 Used in conc. of 0.2 to 1%
 Generally used in pH 4.5-6.
Clarifying agents

 Used to clear the shampoo

 Used to improve transparency
 Example:
 Ethanol,
 Isopropyl alcohol,
 PG,
 Phosphates etc…
Types of shampoo

 Powder shampoo
 Clear liquid shampoo
 Liquid cream or lotion shampoo
 Solid cream or gel shampoo
 Oil shampoo
 Medicated shampoo
 Antidandruff shampoo
 Baby shampoo
 Soap Baby shampoo
 Aerosol shampoo
 Herbal shampoo
Powder shampoo
Formula

 Sodium bicarbonate : 50 %
 Disodium phospahate : 20%
 Soap powder : 30%
 Perfume : q.s
 Procedure:
 Mix all ingredients & add perfume finally
Clear liquid shampoo
Formula
 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate : 45%
 Coconut monoethanolamine : 2%
 Water : 53%
 Perfume : q.s.
 Color : q.s.
 Preservative : q.s.
 Procedure:
 Made by simple solution
 Color & Preservative should be dissolved in water
 Perfume should be added last
 Oil shampoo
Formula
 Sulphonated olive oil : 16%
 Sulphonated castor oil : 16%
 Water : 68%
 Perfume : q.s.
 Color : q.s.
 Preservative : q.s.
 Procedure:
 Mix all ingredients together
 Color & Preservative should be dissolved in water
 Perfume should be added last
 Antidandruff shampoo
Formula
 Thymol : 0.05%
 Menthol: 0.10%
 Camphor: 0.10%
 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate: 50%
 Water: 49.75%
 Perfume: q.s.
 Procedure:
 Mix thymol, menthol & camphor together
 Add perfume & add smalll amount of detergent with stirring
 Continue the addition of detergent with gentle stirring
 Add water to volume
Herbals used in shampoo
 Aloe
 Marigold
 Arnica
 Rosemary
 Chamomile
 Horsetail
 Licorice
 Shampoo’s
1. Clinic Plus
2. Sunsilk
3. Chik Anti Dandruff Shampoos
1. Clinic All Clear
2. Head and Shoulders
3. Dandrazol
Herbal Shampoos
1. Ayush
2. Dabur Vatika
3. Nyle Baby Shampoo
1. Johnson's Baby Shampoo
2. Dalin Baby Shampoo
Shampoo Production
 Shampoo in terms of product consists of surfactants (cleaning agents)
and conditioners.
 Surfactants suspended in distilled water with perfume.
 Conditioning agents are added which could be different silicones or
cationic polymers.
 For general production, fist dispersing thickener in deionized water,
then add some PH – adjuster, then add surfactants, preservatives and
other additives, at last final PH was adjusted to 5.0 – 6.0. After the
system cool down, add fragrance.
 In all the process, continuing stir is needed in order to guarantee all
chemicals and water mix completely.
 Shampoo is then filled in bottles or sachets. Packaging is technology
intensive.
Evaluation of Shampoo
 Determination of pH
 Determine Percent of Solids
 Shake Test - Determination of Foam Formation
 Foam Quality and Retention
 Determination of Relative Viscosity
 Dirt Dispersion
 Effect on skin & eyes
 Effect on hair
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO

 Ease of application
 Lather
 Rinsing
 Ease of combing
 Softness
 Luster or shine
 Body
 Manageability
 Stability
 Safety of shampoos
Ease of application

 Related to shampoo Viscosity

 Should be viscous enough to remain in the palm of the

hand during pouring, but should easily disperse over
the hair during application
Lather

 It is not an indication of cleaning efficiency

 Speed with which lather is generated
 The volume
 The quality (i.e, loose or creamy)
 Stability of lather on the hair
Rinsing

 Shampoo easily rinse out of the hair

 The rinsing ability of shampoo is related to
 lather consistency,
 surfactant adsorption to the hair ,
 water conditions, such as hardness, temperature, rinsing rate &
 the amount of hair.

 The surfactants should not precipitate onto the

hair in hard water, nor should they leave a residual
sticky or tacky feel on the hair surface.
Ease of combing

 The ease of aligning hair fibers in a parallel arrangement

with a comb
 Wet hair- hair conditioning-hair softness & lubricity
 The ease of combing attribute include ease of snag removal
& ease of comb slip on both wet & dry hair.
 Methods to evaluate combing ease include both qualitative
combing of tresses combined with stastistical evaluation of
the results & qualitative instrumental methods
 Instrumental methods involve the measurement of
combing forces on tresses following treatment, using an
Instron or Diastron tensile tester.
Softness

 Associated with a smooth feel, devoid of stiffness &

stickness
 It is evaluated on wet & dry hair as well as at the scalp
& the ends of the hair.
Luster or shine

 Both instrumental methods & subjective evaluations

of tresses or heads of hair have been used to evaluate
shine.
 Effects of shampoos on hair shine can vary.
Body

 Several instrumental methods have been developed to

evaluate parameters associated with the hair body.
These approaches measure
 Changes in fiber friction

 Stiffness, curvature,

 Diameter,

 Weight

 Cohesion

 Length

 Treatments that increase the hair’s curvature or diameter

increase the frictional forces between fibres or make the
hair stiffer increase body; those that increase the cohesion
between fibres or weigh them down will decrease hair body
Manageability

 Is a measure of styling ease & style retention

 Style arrangement manageability
 Style retention manageability
 Flyaway manageability
Stability
 Should be stable at least 2 to 3 years at room temperature
during warehouse storage
 Typically, elevated temperatures are used to accelerate the
aging of a product & predict its stability.
 Aging a products at multiple temperatures provides a more
rigorous evaluation of stability, particularly for example
emulsion.
 Freeze-thaw or temp cycling indicates whether the product
performannce or asthetics will be impaired in colder
climates.
 Evaluated for colour stability
Safety of shampoos