Preparatory Apparel

Production Process
History of Apparel Industry in
Bangladesh
 Reaz garments established in 1960, as a small tailoring outfit, named
Reaz store in Dhaka, served only domestic market of its initial 15 years.
 In 1973, it changed its name to Reaz Garments Ltd and started to export by
selling 10000 pieces of shirt to France, valued 13 million franc in 1978. That
was the first direct export of apparel.
 There were only 9 export oriented garment manufacturing industry in 1978,
earn only 1 million dollar.
 Desh Garments Ltd, first joint venture in Bangladesh, Technical and
Marketing Collaboration with S. Korean Daewoo Corporation, established
in 1979, which was the first 100% export oriented company.
 In 1980, youngone (49%) and Trexim (51%) formed a company named
Younone. Bangladesh export first consignment of padded and non-padded
jackets to Sweden in dec.1980.
 At the end of 1982, there was only 47 garments manufacturing units.
Continue………

 In 1984-85, break through occurred when numbers of garment factories

increased to 587.
 In 1986, Bangladesh industry was brought under the quota system.
 From the late 1980s to1990s, the center gravity of the industry shifted from
foreign ventures to indigenous producers and traders, who increased exports
to large retailers and branded markers in Europe and North America.
 In 1990, knitwear sector developed significantly in Bangladesh.
 In 1994, the international community decided to abolish the quota system
gradually. The phased abolition of the quota system began in 1995 and was
completed in 2005.
 In 2006, Bangladesh entered into the quota free world.
 At present there are 5400 garments industries in Bangladesh and 4 million
workers are employed here, 85% of them are illiterate rural women.
 75% of total industries are situated in Dhaka and the rest of them are in
Chittagong and Khulna.
Continue………
 In 1983-84, Bangladesh earned 31.57 million US dollar by exporting
RMG which was 3.89% to total export of Bangladesh but in 2011-12,
Bangladesh earn 19089.69 million US$ by exporting RMG which is
78.60% to total export of Bangladesh.
 Last 2011-12FY, Bangladesh export to EU countries 73.60% knit garments
and 46.11% woven garments and to USA Bangladesh export 36.83%
woven items and 10.57% knit items.
 Bangladesh enters 2013 with a firm footing as the world’s second largest
garment exporter.
 The world Trade Organization (WTO) declared Bangladesh as the second
largest RMG garments worth $ 19.09 billion.
 Bangladesh now claims 4.8% of the global RMG trade of $412 billion.
 Bangladesh export two types garments like shirt, jeans pant, jackets,
trouser, sweaters, sports, dress, night dress, kids and infants wear, school
wear etc.
Key Features of the RMG sector in Bangladesh:

Characteristics & Descriptions :

 Nature :
The RMG industry in Bangladesh consists of many small to medium
garment factories, both registered and unregistered, that produce
garment catering to foreign buying houses. The factories are mostly
export oriented. A very few are primarily focusing on home markets.
 Natures of Production :
Garment production is divided mainly into three divisions such as
Cutting, Sewing and Finishing. The sewing section is over represented by
women.
 Nature of Employment :
Usually, garment industries are quite susceptible to fluctuations in
employment as a result of seasonal variations in demands. Both Full-time
and part-time employees are employed here. Most employment is
temporary in nature...Usually in down season, unskilled and semi-skilled
workers are fired from job and in peak season they are hired again with
comparatively lower salary.
Continue………
 Service Rules:
The jobs of garment industries are highly vulnerable, insecure and fragile
in nature as there is no structured rule for appointment, promotion and
dismissal in this sector. Therefore the garment owners enjoy utmost liberty.
• Occupation Type:
The occupation types are Production Manager, Quality Controller,
Supervisor, Line Man, Cutting Master, Cutting Helper, Sewing Operator,
Sewing Helper, Folder/Finishing Operator, Iron Man, Finishing Helper etc.
 Level of Skills required :
Most of the garment workers are unskilled or semi-skilled. Usually, 4 types
of employees work in garments industry based on required skill levels.
They are: Technician, Craftsman, Operator, and Helper.
Continue………
 Job Nature:
More than 80% workers in the garments industry are women, mostly
unmarried, young and migrants from rural areas who have no prior
work experience. There is a gender biased discrepancy in wages
between men and women in garment enterprises.
 Trend of using technologies in production :
The demand of the garment customers are moving towards more
sophisticated product that further leads towards using new technologies
in garments production. This has a significant impact on RMG industry
in Bangladesh.
Management Hierarchy of Garment Industry

Hierarchy: A system with grades of authority from lowest to the

highest of an organization. A hierarchy is also be maintained in a
garment or apparel industry. The hierarchy is given below:

Grade Designation
1----------------------------Chairmen
2----------------------------Managing Director (MD)
3----------------------------Executive Director (ED)
4----------------------------Directors( Admin, Finance, Merchandising )
5----------------------------General Manager ( GM of production, Quality)
6----------------------------Managers( production, Quality, Merchandising)
7----------------------------Asst.Managers ( production, Quality, Merchandising)
8----------------------------Line Chief ( LF for line A,B,C )
9----------------------------Supervisor & Inspector ( S &I )
10---------------------------Operator & Helper ( Operators & Helper )
Problems surrounding ready made garments sector:

 Raw materials:
Bangladesh imports raw materials for garments like cotton, thread color etc. This
dependence on raw materials hampers the development of garments industry. Moreover,
foreign suppliers often supply low quality materials, which result in low quality products
 Unskilled workers:
Most of the illiterate women workers employed in garments are unskilled and so their
products often become lower in quality.
 Improper working environment:
Improper ventilation, stuffy situation, filthy rooms are the characteristics of the
majority of our factories. Taking the advantages of workers' poverty and ignorance the
owners forced them to work in unsafe and unhealthy work place overcrowded with
workers beyond capacity of the factory floor and improper ventilation.
 Lack of managerial knowledge:
There are some other problems which are associated with this sector. Those are- lack
of marketing tactics, a small number of manufacturing methods, lack of training
organizations for industrial workers, supervisors and managers, autocratic approach of
nearly all the investors, fewer process units for textiles and garments, entry/exit
complicated and loading/unloading takes much time, time-consuming custom clearance
etc.
 
 Continue………
Insufficient of loan:
Insufficiency of loan in time, uncertainly of electricity, delay in getting materials, lack of communication,
problem in taxes etc.
 Unit labor cost:

Bangladesh has the cheapest unit labor cost in South Asia. It costs only 11 cents to produce a shirt in
Bangladesh, whereas it costs 79 cents in Sri Lanka and 26 cents in India. Clearly, Bangladesh’s comparative
advantage lies in having the cheapest unit labor cost.
Working hours:

Though the wages are low, the working hours are very long. The RMG factories claim to operate one eight-
hour shift six days a week but they don’t follow this when required.
Safety Problems:

Because of the carelessness of the factory management and for their arrogance factory doors used to be kept
locked for security reason defying act. Safety need for the worker is mandatory to maintain in all the
organization. But without the facility of this necessary product a lot of accident is occur incurred every year in
most of the company.
 Political crisis:

Garments industries often pay dearly for political unrest, hartal and terrorism etc. The international market
has withdrawn quota advantage over garments export form Bangladesh since December 2005.Bangladesh has
to advance cautiously for getting better position of her garments in the world market. Finally destruction of
twin tower in 11 September 2001. invasion on Afghanistan and Iraq and depression in world Economy have
seriously affected the export trade of Bangladesh.
 
Continue………
 Price competitiveness:
China and some other competitors of Bangladesh have implemented sharp price-cutting
policies in exporting garment products over the last few years, but Bangladesh has failed to
respond effectively to such policies. China was able to drop the export price of 29 garment
categories by 46 per cent on average in the United States within a year, from $6.23 per sq
metre in December 2001 to $3.37 per sq metre in December 2002. Bangladesh needs to
respond to such price-cutting policies of its rivals in order to remain competitive in the quota-
free global market.
 Lead time:
Lead time refers to the time required for supplying the ordered garment products after the
export order has been received. In the 1980s, the usual lead time in the garment industry was
120-150 days for the main garment supplier countries of the world; it has been reduced to 30-
40 days in the current decade. However, in this regard the Bangladesh RMG industry has
improved little; for example, the average lead time is 90-120 days for woven garment firms
and 60-80 days for knit garment firms. In China, the average lead time is 40-60 days and 50-
60 days for woven and knit products respectively; in India, it is 50-70 days and 60-70 days for
the same products respectively. Bangladesh should improve its average lead time to compete
in the international market
Competitiveness of the Bangladesh RMG
industry
Surface Level:
a) Export competitiveness in the United States market.
b) Export competitiveness in European Union market.
c) Price competitiveness
d) Lead time.

Deep Level:
e) Linkage expansion.
f) Compliance issues.
g) Product and market composition.
h) Production and distribution time.
 Apparel Terms & Definition
 Allowance: The addition as extra to the exact measurement of
the body with which a garment is made out.

 Accessories: Except fabric, all the other materials used for

apparel manufacturing are known as accessories. For shirt
making some commonly used accessories are sewing thread,
button, interlining, label, poly bag, tissue, board paper and so
on.

 Approved sample: The sample which is made according to

spec sheet and then approved by the buyer, called approved
sample.

 Appliqué: A decoration or ornamentation made by cutting

pieces of one material and applying them to the surface of
another.
 Apparel Terms & Definition
 Basic Block: When a pattern is made with exact measurement
of different parts of human body & their flexes & folds without
any allowance & style, called basic block/ block pattern.

 Blind Stitch: Special types of stitch which is partially inserted

into the fabrics and invisible on front side of the garments but
visible on the back side on the garments.

 Basting: Temporary stitching on the garments by hand or

machine before final stitching to facilitate accurate placement ,
is called basting.

 Bespoke garments: Bespoke garments are made on the basis of

individual clients and according to the individual’s size and
requirements.
 Apparel Terms & Definition

 Button Ligne no: Measuring unit of button. It indicates the size of button
i.e. dia of button.
1 ligne = 0.635mm
16 ligne standard for men’s shirt

 Bar tack: Re-stitching is done over a very short length in a particular

space of garments e.g. belt loops, pocket corner and so on.
 Category: Category is a number which indicates the type of fabric used to
make the garment and the type of garment.
 Dart: Dart is used for tightness of garments which is made by sewing.
 Donkey: One type of dressing board with which pressing is done
 Apparel Terms & Definition
 Button Stand: Distance between center of the button to edge of the
garments. Generally button stand is 1cm.

 C.F.L (center front line): The distance between top button center to bottom
of the front part of a shirt, called C.F.L.

 C.B.L (center back line): The distance between middle point of collar to
bottom of the back part of a shirt, called C.B.L.

 Disposable garments: The garments which are used only one time called
disposable garments.

 Drape: The hanging property of fabrics, called drape. It depends on fabric

construction, types of fibre and fabric finishing.
 Apparel Terms & Definition
 Facing: A piece of material sewn to the edge of a garment as
lining or decoration or protection of that garment.

 Fullness: By sewing extra fabrics into some parts of a

garment to get a desired shape, this kind of shape is called
fullness such as sleeve head.
 Grading: Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of
master pattern piece to make pattern of different
sizes(Smaller or Larger).Like-S,M,L,XL,XXL.
 Grain Line: Pattern pieces normally contain a line which is
parallel to the warp or wales & at right angle to the weft or
course direction of fabric ,is known as grain line.
 Off Grain: When grain line of pattern paper is not parallel to
fabric length or not at right angle to fabric width then it is
known as off grain.
Apparel Terms & Definition
 Pattern: The individual parts of garments which is made by
drawing on hard paper following all the specifications of all
components.
 Working Pattern: The pattern which is used to make sample
garments is known as working pattern . Generally 1 size (medium
size) pattern is used for making sample.
 Production Pattern: The pattern which is used for bulk
production is called production pattern . Here size grading is done.
 Sample Garments : The garment which represents the huge
quantity of garments that is called sample garment .
 Counter Sample : One kind of approved sample which is not
signed by buyer is called counter sample . It is kept for smoother
production.
Apparel Terms & Definition
 Marker: Marker is a thin paper which contains components
of all sizes for a particular type of garments.
 Pleat: It is used for looseness or fullness of garments which is
made by folding fabric.
 Invoice: Invoice is a document which indicates the type of
item, quantity of item and price of the item. There are 2
types of Invoice-
 Proforma invoice: This type of invoice is used for opening L/C
 Commercial Invoice: This type of invoice is used for getting
payment from buyer .
Apparel Terms & Definition
Letter of Credit(L/C):A letter of credit (also known as documentary credit) is a
document issued by a bank on behalf of an applicant (the buyer) undertaking to
make payment to a beneficiary (the seller) up to a stated amount of money, within a
prescribed time limit and against stipulated documents.

There are usually two banks involve in a letter of credit operation. The issuing bank
is the bank of the buyer and issues the credit; the advising bank usually located in
the sellers country.
A letter of credit should usually stipulate a requirement for the following documents:
 Bill of lading
 Copy of the certificate of origin
 Commercial invoice
 Export license
 Packing list
Apparel Terms & Definition
There are three common types of credit: Revocable, Irrevocable, and
irrevocable and confirmed.
Revocable credit:
This type of credit can be amended or cancelled by the applicant without
any prior warning or notice to the beneficiary. More risks are involved for
the seller (The beneficiary) as he /she will then have to deal directly with
the buyer to obtain payment. However the buyer has more flexibility.

Irrevocable Credit:
This type of credit can be amended or cancelled only with the agreement
of all parties concerned. It also represents a definite undertaking by the
issuing bank to pay provided that the stipulated documents are presented
and that the terms and conditions of the credit are complied with.
Apparel Terms & Definition
Irrevocable and confirmed credit:
This type of credit involves the undertaking of the advising bank in addition to
that of the issuing bank, it means that the issuing bank request a second bank
to add its own confirmation to the credit so that the confirming bank is
responsible to make payment if the issuing bank fails to pay the beneficiary.

 Back to Back L/C: The small L/C which is opened against

master L/C is back to back L/C.
Apparel Terms & Definition
 Bill of Lading(B/L):A bill of lading is a document issued by a
carrier which details a shipment of merchandise and gives title of that
shipment to a specified party.
 FOB (Free On Board): The Seller delivers the goods on the board of ship

and clears the goods for export. From that point, the Buyer bears all costs
and risks of loss or damage.
 CFR(Cost & Freight): The Seller clears the goods for export and pays the

costs of moving the goods to destination. The Buyer bears all risks of loss or
damage.CFR=FOB + Freight
 CIF(Cost Insurance & Freight):The Seller clears the goods for export and

pays the costs of moving the goods to the port of destination. The Buyer bears
all risks of loss or damage. The Seller, however, purchases the cargo insurance.
CIF=CFR+Insurance
Apparel Terms & Definition
 CM (Cut & Make): The buyer supplies all the materials to the
manufacturer & manufacturer get the charge of making the garments.
 CMT(Cut, Make and trim):The buyer provides the fabric and the
supplier manages all accessories to make the garments.Supplier will get
the charge of accessories & making charge.
Apparel Terms & Definition
 Import Documentation:
1. Bill of Entry
2. Copy of B/L
3. Copy of Invoice
4. Packing List
5. Certificate of Origin
6. UD/UP
7. Copy of Master L/C
8. Proforma Invoice & etc
Apparel Terms & Definition
 Export Documentation:
1. Shipping Bill of Entry
2. Export L/C
3. Packing List
4. Invoice
5. Export Permission Form
 Apparel Terms & Definition
 Quota: A certain amount of garments which are allowed to be exported by
manufacturing country to the imported country. Actually this is a
agreement between the government of exporter country and importer
country.
 Category: A particular type of garment is defined by a number which is

called category.
 Non-quota: The category which are exported without any limitations or

given conditions is called non-quota.

Example: USA quota category
Categories Description
237 ------------------------------- Play suits
338/339-------------------------- Cotton knit shirt
USA non-quota category
239--------------------------------Babies wear
345--------------------------------Sweater
Accessories for a shirt
 Sewing thread
 Button
 Interlining
 Label(Care, International,Flag,Woven)
 TRL/BEL
 RFID &UPC
 Hanger & Hanger Hook
 MRP
 Motif
 Neck board
 Back board
 Plastic collar insert
 Hang tag/Swing Ticket
 Kimble
 Gum tape
 Plastic pin
 Tag pin
 Tissue paper
 Poly bag
Accessories for a Trouser/Pant
 Pocketing fabric
 Interlining
 Zipper
 Elastic
 Sewing thread
 Button
 Label (woven label, care label, international label etc )
 Hanger & Hanger Hook
 Hang tag/Swing Ticket
 TRL/BEL
 RFID & UPC
 Tag pin
 Tissue paper
 Brass pin
 Poly bag
Machines required for making a Shirt
 Plain machine ( lock stitch machine )
 Over lock machine
 Button attaching machine
 Button holing machine
 Feed of the arm sewing machine
 Fusing machine
Machines required for making a Trouser/Pant

 Plain machine ( lock stitch machine )

 Over lock machine
 Button attaching machine
 Button holing machine
 Bar tack machine
 Kansai machine
 Fusing Machine.
Difference between sample apparel and production apparel

Sample Apparel Production Apparel

It is made based on working It is made based on production
pattern. pattern.
It is sent to Buyer for Approval to It is sent to Buyer as contract wise.
get order for bulk production.
If any faults found in apparel, they If any faults found in apparel they
are rectified and then again sent to would be rejected or accepted with
Buyer for Approval. less price by the Buyer.
Fabrication of the apparel should Fabrication of the apparel must be
be actual or available. actual according to contract.

Shade and accessories of the Shade and accessories of the

apparel should be actual or apparel must be actual according
Difference between tailoring and Industrial
methods for Apparel making
Tailoring Method Industrial method
Garments are made acc to Garments are made acc to
individual client’s body standard body measurement.
measurement.
Investment cost is low. Investment cost is high.
Generally 1 or 2 machines are Many and different types of
required. machines are required.
More times needed to make a Less time needed to make a
garment. garment.
For making a garment 1 or 2 For making a garment many
persons are required. persons are required.
No needed for pattern grading. Pattern grading is required.
Fabric wastage is high. Fabric wastage is comparatively
less.
Apparel Manufacturing
Sequence
Receive Tec pack from buyer
↓
Basic Block
↓
Working Pattern Making
↓
Sample Making
↓
Identifying Basic Manufacturing Difficulties
↓
Sample Approval
↓
Production Pattern Making
↓
Pattern Grading
↓
Pattern and marker making for test cutting
↓
Bulk production
Apparel Manufacturing
Sequence
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting & Bundling
↓
Embellishment(if required)
↓
Sewing
↓
Inspection
↓
Washing (if required)
↓
Pattern Grading
↓
Pattern and marker making for test cutting
↓
Bulk production
Apparel Manufacturing
Sequence
Ironing
↓
Folding
↓
Packing
↓
Cartoning
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Ex- Factory
↓
Ship Out
 Sample
 Definition: Sample: A few item or goods taken from a large number of
similar goods are called sample. Sample represents the bulk apparel.

The details attached to the Apparel Sample:

 Ref. no
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Style no/ size
 GSM of gmt faric
Different types of Samples
 Development Samples: This is a sample made from the first pattern
and intended to test the designer’s idea or concept in the chosen
fabrication.
 Salesmen Sample or Promotional Samples: Buyer needs this kind of
samples for getting the orders from their customers. The salesmen
will book the orders from their customers, by showing these
samples. Then buyer will place the orders to the manufacturers
accumulating the quantities.
 Fit Samples: These samples are needed to check the measurements,
style fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but
measurements and specifications must be actual.
 Photo Samples: Photo samples are made with actual color material to
be worn by the models on the event of shooting for catalog. These
samples may be needed for local advertisement or buyer’s
promotional occasions.
Continue…………
 Counter or Reference Samples: These samples are to be made in actual
fabrics with actual trims and should be strictly as per the specifications in
the order sheets.
 Pre-production Samples: These samples are almost like approved samples.
They have to be made in actual production fabric with actual bulk trims.
They will represent that the production will be like these samples.
 Production Samples: During production some samples are sent to Buyer as
a reference that the bulk is being produced as per specifications. Buyer
wants to be assured that correct materials is sourced & line workmanship
conformed to the quality level.
 Shipping Sample: A sample is kept from every pre-shipping inspection to
be referred, if required after the order has been delivered. Usually for any
claim shipping samples is most important.
 Size set Sample: Consists of one piece from each size for each color
combination.
Difference between Approved Sample & Counter Sample

Approved Sample Counter Sample

The sample which is approved by The sample which remain to
the Buyer is called approved manufacturer after sending sample
sample. to Buyer for approval is called
counter sample.
This sample should be kept by the This sample should be kept by the
Buyer as their reference. manufacturer as their reference.
Approved sample should not be Counter sample should be used in
used in bulk production. bulk production and hanged in
sewing floor during sewing.
If required, Buyer gives comments Counter should be rectified
on Approved sample according to this comments.
Sample is required for order Counter sample is required for
 Continue………..

 Mock-up: Any part of the garment to make particular

purpose, not complete garment.

 Swatch: Swatch is a presentation of all the materials (Fabric &

Accessories) used for any specific style/order. Usually small
piece of fabric and each piece of accessories are attached in
board paper in a systematic manner.
 Trimmings
 Accessories for a shirt
 Sewing thread
 Button
 Interlining
 Main label
 Care label, International label, Flag label etc
 TRL/BEL
 RFID/UPC
 Motif
 Neck board
 Back board
 Plastic collar insert
 Hang tag/Swing Ticket
 MRP
 Hanger
 Hanger Clip
 Kimble
 Gum Tape
 Plastic pin
 Tag pin
 Tissue paper
 Polybag
Fabric Used in Apparel Sector
Generally three types of fabrics are used in Apparel Sector. They are-
 Woven Fabric
 Knitted Fabric
 Non- Woven Fabric

Woven Fabric:
Commonly used woven fabrics are-
 Plain Weave Fabric
 Voile
 Poplin
 Chambray
 Taffeta
 Georgette
 Chiffon etc
Fabric Used in Apparel Sector
 Twill Weave Fabric:
 Herring bone
 2/2 twill,2/1 twill etc
 Satin Fabric
Knitted Fabric:
 100% Cotton Single Jersy
 Lycra Single Jersy
 Single & Double Lacoste
 Pique
 Rib
 Interlock etc
Non Woven Fabric:
 Mesh Backing Fabric
Components of A Basic Shirt
Major Components of A Basic Shirt
1. Collar
2. Collar band/ stand
3. Upper yoke
4. Lower yoke
5. Left front part
6. Right front part
7. pocket
8. Sleeve
9. Cuff
10. Back part
11. Facing
12. Button Stand
Components of A Basic Trouser
Components of A Basic Trouser
1. Waist Band
2. Belt Loop
3. Side Pocket
4. Fly Piece
5. Back Pocket
6. Front Part(Right & Left)
7. Back Part(Right & Left
 Pattern
Pattern: Pattern is template of all components of garments
which is made by drawing on hard paper following each &
individual component’s measurement.
Pattern Making Stages/Steps: The pattern is made in two
steps in garment industry-
1. Block Pattern: Block Pattern or Basic Block is individual
components of garments without any style , design &
allowances. It is produced acc. to exact dimension of
standard body measurement.
 Block Pattern is made in two ways-
A. Flat Method
B. Modeling
 Pattern
A. Flat Method : In Flat Method, different parts of garments
like body part, sleeve etc are made by technical drawing. In
technical drawing , the rule & application of method of body
measurements and its ratio depend on pattern maker. This type
of pattern can be made by computer. Measurements are taken
from sizing system (chest , waist , hip & so on) and lines are
drawn to complete the pattern.
B. Modeling: It is primary method & still used to make pattern .
In this method, Block is made with standard body measurement
of dummy /mannequin which is called Toile . Toile is worn on
dummy to check fittings. Then toile is worn out from the body of
dummy and individual parts of toile are drawn on hard paper . It
is more time consuming process but more efficient .
 Pattern
2.Garments Pattern: Garments pattern is made on the
basis of block pattern or basic block. Allowances ie sewing,
washing , trimmings; styles , designs like dart ,pleat , button
hole shrinkage etc are considered . Individual block pattern
is laid /drawn on hard paper or board paper to copy the
block pattern. In garments pattern grain line is indicated by
arrow mark. U or V notch/cut mark is marked on pattern for
accurate cutting & sewing. After drawing , pattern parts are
separated from board paper by knife . Size and individual
part’s name are written on every part.
 Pattern
 Pattern making tools:
 Pencil/Fine point sharp marker
 Measuring Tape
 Ruler
 Curved Ruler
 Scotch Tape
 Scissor
 Pin
 Tracing wheel
 Tracing Paper
 Set Square
 Tailor Chalk etc
 Marker
Marker: Marker is a piece of paper on which all size
patterns of a garment are drawn so that the required number
of garments can be made using the minimum quantity of
fabrics.

 Marker width is taken as the minimum fabric width & marker

length depends on below
 Number of garments to be made from one lay of fabric
 Cutting table length
 Production planning etc.
 Marker
Marker-
 Marker
Factors related to marker efficiency:
 Marker Planner: Marker efficiency depends on technical
knowledge ,experience ,skill , effort & sincerity of marker
planner .The greater the number of times the marker will be
made ,the higher the possibility of getting better marker
efficiency.
 Size of garments: The more the number of the pattern sizes
are included ,the more possibility to get better efficiency.
 Marker length: Higher the marker length higher the efficiency .
It also increases the production of cutting room.
 Marker Width: Generally marker width depends on fabric
width . The greater the width of a marker, the easier for the
marker man to plan the marker. And the possibility of getting
better marker efficiency.
 Marker
 Fabric Characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those
which are similar to all directions when rotate at 180 degree
angle. Marker efficiency is good in these type of fabric.
Asymmetrical are those which fabrics are not similar to all
direction when rotate at 180 degree angle. So, marker
efficiency will be less for these type of fabrics.
 Marker Making Method: Mainly there are two methods for
marker making –manual marker & computer aided marker. If
the computer aided marker is done , the efficiency becomes
greater than manually done marker.
 Garment Type: The garments where big sizes patterns are
greater than small sizes patterns such as overcoat etc ,less
marker efficiency is obtained. But in the garments where the
number of small size patterns are more, comparatively the
higher efficiency is obtained .
Points to be considered before marker making

The following points should be considered

before marker making:
 Fabric width must be higher than marker width(1 cm)
 Fabric length must be higher than marker length
( 2cm+ 2cm)
 The grain line of pattern pieces should be parallel to the grain
line of fabric( parallel to the warp in woven fabric and Wales
in knitted fabric) during laying down on the fabric.
 All pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same
direction when laid down on asymmetric fabric.
 Cutting table length should be considered.
 Garments production plan should also be considered.
Marker
 Constraints of Marker Making
 The factors which prevent the marker man to
make the efficient marker are listed below:
o Grain Line: During marker making, the grain line of
pattern must be placed in parallel with the warp side of
woven fabric and the Wales of knitted fabric . If the marker
planner doesn’t pay proper attention to the grain line ,the
finished garments won’t hang or drape correctly when worn.
It restricts the freedom of marker planner.
o Fabric Characteristics: In case of symmetrical fabric ,
there is no problem during marker making .But in case of
asymmetrical fabric ,during marker making special attention
should be given otherwise the garments look may be
defective. For this reason, the pattern can’t be moved
randomly as per wish which is a constrain .
 Constraints of Marker Making
o Garment Design Characteristics: In garments
where special designs are must such as Mirror Image i.e. the
left & right side along the centre front line be looked as
same. During fabric spreading marking special attention is to
be given so that after making garments the desired designs
are obtained in each garment.
o Cutting Quality: Precautionary measures should be taken
during marker making so that for moving the knife for
cutting the patterns, no problem arise; otherwise chances of
defective pattern cutting will be seen.
o Production Planning: When an order is placed for a
quantity of garments ,then it specifies a quantity of each size
and color. Marker planning to meet the requirements of
production schedule is very important during marker making.
Marker Making
 Marker Efficiency:
the percentage of the total fabric
that is actually used in garment
parts.

Area of pattern in the marker

Marker Efficiency =
-----------------------------------------X
100%
Total area of the marker plan
Fabric wastage outside marker
 Ends of ply losses: For the extensibility of the
fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2
cm allowances is required in each end of the
each ply.
 Loss of fabric ends: during preparation of the
fabric lay, the last or end remains of the
fabric roll are separated by cutting.
Fabric wastage outside marker
 Selvedge losses: Each fabric has two
selvedges along width. The amount of cut out
is considered 3% (approximately) along width
 Purchase loss: Less fabric may wound on roll

than identified length

Methods of Drawing a Marker
 1. Marking directly on the fabric
a. Drawing by Chalk or pencil:
mark directly onto the fabric
using pipe clay or wax
not allow copying
least accurate method
Not applicable method for pile or
woolen fabric
Methods of Drawing a Marker
 B. Paint Spray: fine jets of paint are sprayed
over the patterns that have been laid on the
fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when
they are removed
More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint.
Paint can migrate under the pattern edges
Pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up
The machine must be cleaned every day.
Methods of Drawing a Marker
 2. Marking on the paper: pattern pieces are
precisely arranged on to the marker paper
and draw the outline of the patterns by
using pencil. This method is widely used in
the industry.
 3. Computerized Drawing:
◦ Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on
screen to produce a marker
◦ the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen and
the range of the pattern pieces are shown on top
Methods of Drawing a Marker
 4. Photographic System: patterns pieces are
set onto a light sensitive paper passing
through ultra-violet light and revealed by
using ammonia vapor. This method is quick
and clean
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
 a. Carbon duplicating: Carbon paper in
between two marker paper
◦ Suitable to copy 3-4 pieces
◦ This duplication method has fairly low capital and
material costs
◦ dirty , poor impression in the lower layer
◦ Spreading and rolling of carbon paper is difficult,
labour intensive process
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
 b. Spirit duplicating: working procedure is
same as Office duplicating machine/Xerox
machine
◦ Only significant difference is that the size of the
machine
◦ Suitable for copying 40-50 pieces
◦ Not suitable for higher marker width
◦ May produce defective copy if master copy set on
the machine improperly.
Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
 c. Photographic method: With the
photographic method, the original marker is
set onto a light sensitive paper using ultra-
violet light and revealed by using ammonia
vapor. This method is quick and clean and
produces unlimited numbers of duplications
Methods of marker making
 A. Manual method.
In this process, marker can be made in two ways
a. By using full size pattern:
-full size pattern pieces on marker paper
or
-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a
spread
b. By using miniaturized pattern:
-full size pattern pieces are reduced to 1/5
of its original size by using pantograph
-made by plastic sheet or thick board paper
-Marker planning is done by using those
miniaturized patterns
-reproduced full size using the mini-marker as
a reference.
Methods of marker making

 Area Covered by pattern measured by

planimeter to get Marker efficiency.
 higher marker efficiency as control over the

marker is better than the full size pattern

 rapidly being replaced by computerized

method
Features of manual marker making
 time consuming and require a great deal of space
 errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain
variation, poor line definition, placement and
alignment of pieces and slip of the pieces
 Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on
the skill of the individual who laid out the marker
and traced it
Methods of marker making
B. computerized marker making
 very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for
pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest
response time
 Production patterns may be developed on the computer or
digitized or scanned in to the computer
 parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from
cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and fabric
width
 Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure the
grain alignment and prevent overlapping of pieces
 Automatic marker making may be used to determine yardage
requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to line
adoption
Advantages of computerized method

 Increases in material efficiency with subsequent

decreases in material waste,
 Time and labor savings in making markers;
 Improvements in overall marker quality;
 Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and
 Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.
Disadvantages of computerized method:
 Initial investment is high.
 Skilled operator is required.
 Fabric Spreading
Fabric Spreading: Fabric spreading means the smooth laying
out of the fabric in superimposed layers as per marker
length and width. The shape of the fabric that is attained as
per spreading of fabric , is called “fabric lay”.
 The objective of spreading
  To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the
marker plan correctly aligned as to length and width and
without tension.
  To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use
of multi garment marker plans and the saving in cutting time
per garment that result from cutting many plies at a time.
 To make every ply plain and flat.
 Requirements of fabric spreading
 1.Allignment of fabric plies: Fabric spreading is
done as per the length and width of a marker.
Otherwise the fabric of any ply which will be placed
beyond the dimension of the length or width of the
marker , will be cut defectively.
 2.Correct ply tension: During spreading it must be
ensured that each ply of fabric must be tension free
whether spreading is done in manual or mechanical
way. Fabric spread should not be in too tight or too
loose condition.
 3.Fabric must be flat: During fabric spreading there
should not be any crinkle or folding in fabrics.
Spreading must be in flat condition.
 Continue……
 4.Elimination of Fabric flaws: If there is any flaws in
fabric then it must be removed during spreading by
necessaries steps.
 5.Correct ply direction: Before spreading of fabric it is

to be checked what sort of fabric it is . If the fabric is

symmetric , then no problem will arise. But in case of
Asymmetric fabric, the fabric ply must be spread in
correctly.
 6.Elimination of static electricity: If spreading is done

by manmade fabrics, static electricity may generate. It

can be eliminated by reducing friction or increasing
humidity of the room. Earthling can also reduce it.
 Continue……

 7.Easy separation of cut lay into bundles: The

bundle size of the cut fabrics depends on the
height of the fabric lay. During spreading for easy
separation of cut parts , low priced colored paper
layer is used.
 8.Avoidance of fusion of plies during spreading :
During the time of fabric cutting, heat is
generated due to the friction between fabric and
knife. The fabrics in which there are thermoplastic
fiber, those fibers melt due to frictional heat and
form polymer bid. To avoid this anti fusion paper
is used between fabric layers in regular gap.
 Continue…
 9.Avoidance of distortion in spread: To avoid
this fabric spreading should be on smooth
table.
 10.Matching checks or stripes: During

spreading matching of checks or stripes will

be done properly ; otherwise garments design
will change.
 Types of fabric lay
1. According to the construction:
a) Straight Lay: Every ply is placed according to the marker
length. It is most common and most of the garments are
used this type of lay.
b) Stepped Lay: In this type of lay, each ply of the fabric is not
spread in full length , that means they arranged in steps.
Different type of marker is required for stepped lay. Fabric
wastage is high ; it is rarely used.
2. According to the direction of spreading:
3. a) All face up/down: This type of lay is suitable for open and
wide fabric. The face side of each ply of the fabric is paced
either on the top side or on the bottom side. But the fabric
spreading direction is always in the same direction. After
spreading of each ply, the fabric end is cut and again the
fabric is spread from the same end.
 Continue…
2) Face to Face: This type of lay is suitable for wide and
open fabric. The front side of the ply of the fabric is placed
face to face in pairs and for making the lay, the fabric roll is
required to be turned after completion .

3) Zig Zag Lay: For making this type of lay, fabric spreading
starts from one end as per the marker length and reach the
other end and without cutting the fabric end, it is kept hold
and the fabric spreading runs continuing. This way zig zag
lay is done. Zig zag lay is widely used in garments industry
but for Asymmetric fabrics this type of lay may create
problem.
 Methods of spreading

There are mainly two methods of fabric spreading-

1)Manual method
2) Mechanical method
1) In this method, fabric spreading can be done in three ways which are :
a) Fully manual spreading: As per the length and width of the marker, two
workers spread the fabric roll manually from two sides of the table.
b) Manual spreading with the help of hook: In this case, the top of the
table which is used for fabric spreading , is set at 10 degree angle with
the perpendicular. Then one selvedge of the fabric is hooked with the 15
cm length hook placed on the top of the table and the other end
(selvedge) of the fabric remains hanging due to its own weight. The
hooks are placed in the same row at a distance of 20 to 25 cm from each
other. For check matching laying of fabrics by this method is very much
suitable . The fabric tension along the width in fabric lays is uniform and
the tension along the length depends on the worker’s skill . After
spreading the fabric, the top of the table is set again parallel to the floor.
Then the hooks are removed and the marker is placed on the fabric lay.
 Continue….

3) With the help of manual spreading track:

There is spreading track on the one end of the
spreading table in which the fabric roll is set. Then the
track is manually driven from one end to the other end
of the table and simultaneously the fabric is unwound
from the roll kept in the track and the spreading of
fabric continues as per the length and width of the
marker. For guiding the journey of the spreading track
easy and in certain track, generally it is done by two rail
lines and wheels on them at the two sides of the
spreading table top. Sometimes the spreading track is
placed at one end of the table and two workers holding
the two selvedges of the fabric from the two sides of the
table ,spread the fabrics drawing from one end of the
table to the other.
 Continue….
2) Mechanical method: The machines which are used for
fabric spreading are of two types:
a) Semi Automatic : The spreading m/c is run on the specific
path with the help of motor on two rails at the two sides of the
top of the table. The fabric roll is placed at the specific place in
the m/c. The spreading m/c makes the fabric lay on the table
by spreading of the fabric moving from the one end of the
table to the other with the help of electrical and mechanical
power. The advantages of semi automatic m/c are listed below:
 There is a system for counting the fabric plies automatically.

 There is a system for cutting the fabric plies automatically.

 There is system for holding the ends of the fabrics

automatically after cutting of the fabric plies.

 There is inspection light for making the fabric faults during

spreading of fabrics.
 Continue….
 There is system for controlling of fabric tension.
 There is leveling blade for making the fabric top flat and
straight.
 There is photo electric guide for making the selvedge
alignment.
 There is table for turning the fabric roll.
 Fabric is unwound from the fabric roll with positive speed and
it is adjusted with the speed of the fabric spreading m/c
speed.
 It can spread up to 100 meters of fabric per minute.
 Up to 25 cm of height lay can be made.
 Continue….
2) Full automatic: The full automatic m/c is the improved
version of semi automatic m/c. This is run by robot and
micro processor controlling.
 The m/c can be pre-set for spreading of any specific

number of plies . After spreading of specific number of

plies, the m/c will be stopped automatically and will give
signal.
 During the running of fabric spreading with robotic system,

if the fabric roll is finished , the spreading head

automatically comes to the housing end and leaving the
blank paper tube of fabric roll to the specified place and
placing the new fabric roll in the spreading head, restarts
the spreading of the fabric , allowing the required splice
,from the place where the fabric of previous roll was
finished.
 Continue…
 There is sensor placed at the spreading head.
Previously marked fabric defects are
identified by sensor and the spreading head
stands instantly and cut the width of the
fabric at the defective place. Then the
spreading head turning back to some extent ,
restart spreading of fabric from the nearest
splice mark.
 Almost all kinds of fabric can be spread with

this m/c; takes less time ,labor cost is

minimum but initial investment is high.
Manual Spreading Machines
Advantages:
• Easy to operate
• Low investment
• Suitable for small scale garment
industries

Limitations:
• Speed limitation
• Skilled labor required to operate
• Chances of improper selvedge
alignment
• Small roll size
Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines

Advantages:
• Fast and economical
• Proper selvedge alignment
• Ease to operate with electronic clutch

Limitations:
• Fabric roll loading, cutting is still
manual
• Not suitable for large scale
manufacturing houses
• Small roll size
 CUTTING MACHINE
Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machine:
According to the operating process, the Cutting Machine can be
classified into three types. Such as-
Manual
Semi- Automatic
Automatic / Computerized
Manual Cutting
Machine
Semi-Automatic Cutting
Computerized Cutting
Hand Scissors.
Machine
Machine
Straight knife of Cutting
Knife Cutting Machine.
M/c.
Laser Cutting Machine.
Round Knife Cutting
Water Jet Cutting Machine.
Machine.
Air jet Cutting Machine.
Band Knife Cutting
Ultrasonic Cutting
Machine.
Machine. 
Die Cutting Machine.
 STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
STRUCTURE OF STRAIGHT
KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE:
The Straight knife cutting
machine consists of a;
1.base plate,
2. an upright stand to hold
the vertical blade,
3. motor,
4. a handle for moving
assembly,
5. a sharpening device and
6. a handle to transfer the
whole assembly from one
place to another.
 STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
KINDS OF POWER ARE REQUIRED TO
OPERATE A STRAIGHT KNIFE.
• Motor power drives the
reciprocating blade and
• operator power drives the
knife through the lay.
CUTTING MACHINE PARTS INVOLVED
IN CUTTING
5. Base plate
1. Knife/Blade
6. Moving
2. Sharpener
handle
3. Motor
7. Transport
4. Fabric
handle
presser
 STRAIGHT KNIFE
STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
CUTTING MACHINE

Blade MACHINE
Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm. Knife stroke is 2.5
cm to 4.5 cm.
Sharpener
It is small band with Grinder/sharpening material
on it and its main function is to sharpen the
blade.
Motor
Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000 and its main
function is to move blade up and down and also
slightly in front direction to create a stroke on
fabric.
Knife cut the fabric very fast due to high speed of
motor. That increases the risk of fabric damage.
 STRAIGHT KNIFE
STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
CUTTING MACHINE

MACHINE
Fabric presser
It is a device in the machine which hold the
layers of the fabric tight so than it will easy for
cutter to cut the fabric.
Base plate
Wheels are under the base plate to move the
machine smoothly.
Machine weight is around 12-15 kg.
Moving handle
This handle is to hold the machine as well to
move in
predefined direction
Transport handle
 STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
ADVANTAGES OF STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
•Comparatively cheap & and can be cut many plies
at a time

•Higher lay of height can be cut very easily.

•Round corners can be cut more precisely than

even round knife.

•Production speed is very good.

•Garments components can be directly separated
from fabric lay.
 STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
DISADVANTAGES OF STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
High speed of the machine causes high risk of
damage.
Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.

Motor weight creates knife deflection which may

be creates faulty pieces.

Risk is high for physical damage of operator.

Knife required to replace.

ROUND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
ROUND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
ROUND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
 ROUND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
Features of Round Knife Cutting Machine:
• It contains a round but slightly octagonal type
knife with sharp edge.
• The other main parts of this machine are base
plate, electric motor, handle & knife guard.
• Knife diameter varies from 6-20 cm.
• Manual grinder is used.
• Motor r.p.m. is 800-1600.It depends on machine.
• A handle for the cutter to direct the knife.
• Easy to handle & movement due to low weight.
• Knife is lubricating manually.
• Base plate gives support for fabric.
• Maximum 40% of the knife diameter can be used
 ROUND KNIFE CUTTING
Round knife cutting machine

MACHINE
Advantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:

• Suitable for cutting single ply as well as

multilayer (say 20-30layers).
• Easy to handle & operate.
• Suitable for small scale cutting.
• Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.
• To cut the larger part of the garments.
• With a same r.p.m. its efficiency is 10
times greater than the straight knife.
 ROUND KNIFE CUTTING
Round knife cutting machine

MACHINE
Disadvantage of Round Knife Cutting
Machine:
• Very low r.p.m. & knife height.
• Manual grinder is used.
• Low productivity since few number of lay
can be cut.
• Difficult to cut small components & high
curve line.
• Not suitable for large production.
Uses/Application
• Lubrication is of Round Knife
manually Cutting Machine:
done.
It’s useful for gentle curve line cutting, big parts
cutting, cutting out fabric block from lay & small
scale cutting. It’s normally use for small
NOTCHER CUTTING MACHINE

Hand Notcher
 Notcher cutting machine
NOTCHER CUTTING MACHINE
Features of Notcher Machine:
• A knife notcher is an upright, cylindrical
device which cuts the side of a block to a
predetermined distance.
• Both straight notches and V notches are
available.
• An alternative machine, the hot notcher,
incorporates a heating element in order
that the blade may slightly scorch the
fibers adjacent to the notch in order to
prevent it fraying and disappearing.
• This cannot be used with thermoplastic
NOTCHER CUTTING MACHINE
Dis-advantages of Notcher Machine:
• Only use to make notch to the fabric.
• Thermoplastic fiber can’t cut by this machine.
• The use of machine is limited.

Advantages of Notcher Machine:

It is a special type of cutting machine & use in
special case.
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric.
It is most useful to make consistency in notching.

Uses/Application of Notcher Machine: 

To make the notch mark on the fabric
BAND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
 BAND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
• Band Knife cutting machine is look
like a wood cutter machine.
• Band knife is used for precision
cutting small parts of garment.
• This band knife cutting machine has
lower noise, less temperature up,
high power, less vibration and auto
sharpening device.
 BAND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
Main Features;
• This machine worked as saw mill technique.
• Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay.
• Block pieces of fabric required in bundle from to
cut by this machine.
• Blade moving vertically through a flat working
table.
• Machine remains stationery and fabric is
moveable.
• It comprises a series of three or more pulleys,
which provide the continuous rotating motion of
the knife.
• An endless knife is used here.
 BAND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
Main Features;
• Air blower blows the air to minimize the weight of
fabric.
• Balls in air blower help to move the fabric in
different direction.
• Automatic grinder is used.
• In this method machine is stationary but fabric is
movable.
• High speed r.p.m. motor is used.
• Required a large space for it.
• This is like a saw mill cutter.
• Knife life time depends on fabric type & uses of
machine.
 BAND KNIFE CUTTING
MACHINE
Advantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:
• Suitable for any types of line
• Very large productivity for limited product
• Such as collars, cuff, placket etc.
• Automatic grinder grind the knife instantly
• Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which
increases smooth movement of fabric.
• Possible to cut 900 angle of the lay.
• Intensity of accident is low.
Disadvantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:
• Not suitable for large component due to the length of the
table.
• Work load is high as machine is stationary & fabric is
movable.
• Running cost is higher, Fabric wastage is high.
Required fix space.
DRILL CUTTING MACHINE
 DRILL CUTTING MACHINE
Features of Drill Machine:
• The drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate with a
hole to allow the drill to pass through, and a spirit level to
ensure that the base is horizontal and hence the drill
vertical.
• The momentum of drill is completed at 90 ̊ angle in the
fabric lay by the level of sprit.
• On many fabrics the drill is used cold and the hole
remains visible until the sewing operator comes to use it.
• For tightly woven fabric the hole is permanent for a long
time.
• On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, a
hot drill is used, which will slightly scorch or fuse the
edges of the hole to make it permanent for a long time.
• A hypodermic (or dye spot) drill may also be used which
leaves a small deposit of paint on ply of fabric to find the
mark place easily.
 DRILL CUTTING MACHINE
Advantage of Drill Machine:
• This machine is needed to mark on the end of
components of dresses specially for setting
pocket, dart & so on.
• It can make the hole permanently for a long.

Dis-advantage of Drill Machine:

• The use of machine is limited.

Uses/Application of Drill Machine: 

• It is used to make hole on the fabric for button
attaching & to make reference mark for
attaching different small components on the
garments. 
 WATER JET CUTTING
MACHINE
A water jet cutter, also
known as a waterjet, is a
tool capable of slicing into
metal or other materials
(such as granite) using a jet
of water at high velocity
and pressure, or a mixture
of water and an abrasive
substance. The process is
essentially the same as
water erosion found in
nature but greatly
accelerated and
 WATER JET CUTTING
MACHINE
Advantages to Waterjet Cutting
Waterjet cutting has many applications, and there
are many reasons why waterjet cutting is preferable
over other cutting methods. Listed below are
several advantages, along with a brief explanation.
• In waterjet cutting, there is no heat generated.
• This is especially useful for cutting tool steel and
other metals where excessive heat may change
the properties of the material.
• Unlike machining or grinding, waterjet cutting
does not produce any dust or particles that are
harmful if inhaled.
• The kerf width in waterjet cutting is very small,
 WATER JET CUTTING
Disadvantages of water jet cutting machine:
• One of the main MACHINE
disadvantages of water jet cutting
is that a limited number of materials can be cut
economically.
• While it is possible to cut tool steels, and other
hard materials, the cutting rate has to be greatly
reduced, and the time to cut a part can be very
long. Because of this, water jet cutting can be very
costly and outweigh the advantages.
• Another disadvantage is that very thick parts can
not be cut with water jet cutting and still hold
dimensional accuracy.
• If the part is too thick, the jet may dissipate some,
and cause it to cut on a diagonal, or to have a
wider cut at the bottom of the part than the top.
 DIE CUTTING MACHINE
Feature of Die cutter
Machine:
• Fast die change and
set-uptimes
• Driven pinch rollers
• In feed and out feed
conveyers
• Moveable control
console for easy
operation
• Language-selectable
keypad with inch or
millimeter readout
• PLC controlled
servomotor indexing
• Automatic or manual
 DIE CUTTING MACHINE
Advantages of Die Cutter:

• Very accurate and excellent for small

components
• The greater the blade movement , the faster
the blade cuts the fabric & the more rapidly.
• The operate can be easily & push the Machine.

Die Cutter Uses:

• Mainly used for mass production of slow
change items.
• Dies having the exact shape of the garment
pieces.
•
 COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE
CUTTING
This methods provides the most accurate possible
cutting , at high speed,.
• A typical computer system has a table with a
cutting surface consisting of nylon bristles which
support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to
permit penetration and movement of the knife
blade which is supported only on the top.
• The bristles also allow the passage of air through
the table to create a vacuum, reducing the height
of the lay and holding it in place .
• It is ideal for placing notches in a lay and has a
depth adjustment guide to stop you notching too
deeply. It has a depth capacity of 200mm
and selectable temperatures of 300, 400 or
 COMPUTER CONTROLLED KNIFE
CUTTING
Very active & fast cutting by computer controlled
system.
Suitable for very large-scale production.
Speed of cutting can be controlled.
Cutting defects are less than other.
Less labor cost.
No need of marker paper.
Disadvantages
Very expensive machine.
Higher maintenance cost.
 LASER CUTTING MACHINE

• Laser cutting processing depends on its

precise processing, faster, simple
operation, high degree of automation has
been widely used in the leather and
textile garment industry.
• Laser cutting machine is not only with low
price, low consume, more over laser
processing doesn't have mechanical stress
to the work piece, so the precision and
cutting speed of the cut products' result
are very well.
 LASER CUTTING MACHINE

Advantages
• Very High Speed Cutting
• Suitable for single ply
cutting

Disadvantages
• Not suitable for cutting
multi layer of fabric
• Not suitable for
synthetic fabric
possibility of burning.
 Trimmings & Accessories
 Accessories: All the materials expect body fabric
that are required for garments making and
finishing are called Accessories. Accessories is
used for aesthetic purposes ie for presenting
the garments. Normally accessories is used in
finishing section.Ex-Poly,Hangtag , tissue paper
etc.
 Trimmings: All the materials except body fabric
that are directly attached to the garments ie that
are in the garments during wearing are known as
Trimmings.Ex-Button,sewing thread etc.
 Trim List
 Button
 Sewing thread
 Zipper
 Elastic, lace, tape, braid
 Hooks and eye
 Shoulder pad
 Wadding
 Snap button, poppers, rivet
 Lining
 Interlining
 Motif
 Aplique
 Label(care ,woven , main ,size etc)
 Heat seal
 Butterfly etc
 Accessories
Commonly used accessories are-
 Neck board
 Back board
 Plastic collar insert

 Plastic clip
 Tissue paper
 Price ticket/ hang tag
 Poly
 Silica bag

 Barcode sticker
 Box end label(BEL)/ Transit route label(TRL)
 Gum tape
 Carton
 Hanger and hanger clip
 Kimble/ Lock tag pin
 Label
Label: Label is a component used in garment where some
essential information is written such as the size of garments,
types of fiber, care instructions, the country of origin, trade
marks etc. Labels are generally attached to the garments by
sewing. Without any label a garment can’t be sold especially
for export oriented garments. Label is normally used for
functional purposes .Label may be also used for aesthetic
purposes. Labels may be of different types-
 Main label

 Care label

 Size label

 Composition label

 Flag label

 Price label etc

 Motif
To increase the beauty or attractiveness of
garments a special component or part is
attached outside the garments is known as
motif. Motif contains following-
 Company name
 Trade mark
 Various types of symbols etc

Most of the motifs are designed by

embroidering or by printing. It is attached to
the garments by sewing , ultrasonic welding
etc.
 Differences between label and motif
Label Motif
Label is a component that gives A tag that is used for decorative
some information about the purposes of garments is motif.
garments.
Generally label is attached inside Motif is attached outside the
the garments. garments.
The labels are made by non woven Motifs are made by embroidering
and printing the instruction of a and printing.
garments.
Label is attached by sewing Motif is attached by sewing ,
ultrasonic welding etc.
It contains care instruction, size , It contains trade mark, company
composition ,company name etc. name , various symbols etc.
Comparison between Lining and Interlining

Lining Interlining
A generic term generally used to It is used between two layers of
cover inner surfaces of garments. fabrics in a garment.
Generally smooth and lustrous Cotton, polyester, nylon,
fabrics made of silk or others are viscose ,paper , mesh etc are used
used as lining. as interlining.
This is joined by sewing. This is joined by sewing and
fusing.
Used to increase comfort and for Used to support ,reinforce ,control
decoration. area of garments and retain actual
shape.
Generally applied in jackets, coats, Used in collar, cuffs , waist band ,
ladies garments etc. placket etc .
 Button
Button is an essential trimming which is required in
almost all types of garments. It is used in garments as a
functional component or a decorative component , or for
both purposes at a time. Buttons are made from various
materials. Buttons are made from natural material like
bone, wood, pearl etc; synthetic materials like-polyester,
nylon, acrylic, metal etc. Buttons are of various types like-
 Two hole/ four hole button
 Shank button/ snap button
 Plastic button etc
Methods of quality control:

Basically two methods are used for garments

quality control –
i) Testing
ii) Inspection.

Maximum garments manufacturers apply

inspection method due to high cost of
testing equipments.
Inspection:
Inspection may be defined as the
visual examination in relation to some
standards.

Objective:
The main objectives of inspection are –
i. Detection of defects.
ii. Correcting the defects or defective
garments.
 To inspect garments an integral method
named ‘Inspection Loop’ is used given below
–
Inspection

Correction of the defects Detection of defects

Inform defects to
appropriate personnel

Determination of
causes of defects
Fig: Inspection Loop.
Steps of inspection in garments industry:

i) Raw materials inspection (Fabric

and Accessories)
ii) In Process inspection.
iii) Final inspection.
Sewing thread inspection:
A) Thread construction:
To know about thread construction
the following should be tested –
i. Thread count.
ii. Thread ply.
iii. Number of twist.
iv. Thread balance.
v. Thread tenacity.
vi. Thread elongation
B) Sew ability:
The sewing ability of a thread is
called sew ability. During sew ability test the
following quality of thread should be tested –
i. Imperfection
ii. Finish
iii. Package density
iv. Winding
v. Yardage
What are the things used to check to
determine the quality of Zipper:

i. Measuring Zipper Dimension

ii. Top and Bottom stops should be secured
iii. Uniform in color
iv. Slider should ride freely but not so free
v. Slider lock must be secured.
vi. Durability of finish of zipper chain to
laundering or dry cleaning.
vi. Color fastness to zipper to light, to crocking
(rubbing) and to laundering.
 In process inspection
Spreading defects
Possible Pattern Defects:
 Pattern parts missing  Skimpy marking
 Mixed parts  Generous marking
 Patterns not facing in the correct direction  Marker too wide
on napped fabrics  Not enough knife clearance
 Patterns not all facing in the same freedom
direction on a one-way fabric  Mismatched checks and stripes
 Patterns not aligned with respect to the  Notches and drill marks omitted,
fabric grain indistinct, or misplaced
 Line definition poor

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

 Quality department
Cutting defects
 Frayed edges

 Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges

 Ply-to-ply fusion

 Single-edge fusion

 Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut

 Notches

 Drills

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

 Quality department
Seaming defects
 Incorrect or uneven width of inlay

 Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line

 Insecure back stitching

 Twisted seam

 Mismatched checks or stripes

 Mismatched seam

 Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam

 Reversed garment part

 Blind stitching showing on the face side

 Wrong seam or stitch type used

 Wrong shade of thread used

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

 Quality department
Assembly defects
 Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.

 Finished garment not to size

 Parts, components, closures or features omitted

 Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned

 Interlining incorrectly positioned

 Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,

 Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness

 Garment parts shaded

 Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction

 Mismatched trimming

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

 Quality department
Checks for final inspection
 Open seams  Snaps, fasteners, buttons

 Skipped stitches  Labels

 Cracked stitches  Elastic

 Stitches/inch  Measurements

 Uneven seams  Mends or repairs

 Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams  Stripe

 Needle and feed cuts  Hems

 Unclipped threads and Long ends  Trim

 Raw edge  Broken needle

 Distortion

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

 Quality department
AQL: Accepted quality level
 The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection
can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
 The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be
accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

 Quality department
AQL: Accepted quality level
Sample size code letters

Lot or Batch Size Sample size code letter

2 to 8 A
9 to 15 B
16 to 25 C
26 to 50 D
51 to 90 E
91 to 150 F
151 to 280 G
281 to 500 H
501 to 1200 J
1201 to 3200 K
3201 to 10000 L
10001 to 35000 M
 Quality department
AQL: Accepted quality level
Sampling Plans
Sample Size Code Sample
Letter Size Acceptable Quality Level
    2.5 4 6.5 10
    Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3
E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4
F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6
G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8
H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11
J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15
K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22
L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22
M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22