The Bra Makers Manual

The Bra-makers I
Manual
Table of
Contents
1. The History of The Bra……………...…….…….…………1-
12  The Bra Family Tree
 So Who Invented the First Bra?
 The Twenties and Thirties
 The Rise of Elastic
 Wartime and the Boomer Years
 Burn That Bra!
 That 70’s Look
 The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s
 The Return to Cleavage – 1990s
2. Terms and Definitions………………..………………..…13-

23  Parts of a Bra
 Types of Bras
 Cups
 Frames
 Bridges
 Straps
 Bra Findings
3. What is Good Fit?………………..……..………...……...24-

33  What is Good Fit?
 Characteristics of a Well-fitting bra
 Measuring for Ready-to-wear (North American method)
 Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International method)
 Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement
 The Underwire System
 International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart
4. Making Fabric Choices…………………….…..….……....34-

50  Knits or Wovens
 Knit terms
 Percentage and Direction of Pull
 Beefing Up the Fabric
 Fibre Content
 Fabric Pull and how it Affects Design
 Fabric quantities
 Elastic Terms
II The Bra-makers
Manual
5. Obtaining the Pattern.……………...….…………………51-
73  Home Sewing Patterns
 Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra
 Breast Moulds
 Bra Drafting Software
 Drafting a Bra Pattern From a Sloper
 Professional Bra Blocks
 Terms Used in bra Design
 Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces
 Evaluating a Bra Pattern
 Observations about Bra Grading
 An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern
 Grading One Size Larger
6. Birth of a Bra……………………….….…........................74-
88  The Tester Cups
 Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time
 Fabric Selection
 Framework
 Closure
 Seamline Variations
 Bridge and Band Detail
 Straps
 Bra Design Sheet
7. The Construction Process………………………………...89-

122
 Setting Up to Sew
 The Equipment
 The Tools
 Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting
 Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra
 Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra
 Alternate Methods of Construction
 Alternate Methods of Front Strap Attachment
 Alternate Methods of Back Strap Attachment
 Choices for Wire Line Treatments
 Alternate Band Construction
 Common Mistakes Everyone Makes
The Bra-makers Manual III
8. Fitting to a Live Model………………….…….………123-

145
 Fittings Prior to Sewing
 Assessing The First Fitting
 Alterations to the Straps
 Alterations to the Band
 Alterations to the Bridge
 Alterations to the Cups
9. Style Changes for Fashion………....……………….…..146-

182
 Minor Style Changes
 Major Style Changes
 The Strapless Bra
10. Style Changes for Special Needs…………………..……183-

222
 Support Challenges
 Sports Bras
 Nursing Bras
 Mastectomy Bras
11. Appendix…………………………………...…………223-230
 Suggested Further Reading
 Wire chart
 Client Information and Design Sheet
 Fitting and Style Change Drawings
 List of Sample Providers
12. Index…………………..……………….…………….231-235
IV The Bra-makers
Manual
Thanks to…..
They say all things happen for a reason…is this exciting career of mine the whole
reason behind the path my life has taken for over 50 years? When I think back to all the
things I have done and seen and tried, they all lead to where I am today. Without
sounding philosophical, where I am today is because of all that I have done, and what
has happened to me. So, in that vein, I thank God for what has transpired in my life (the
good and the bad; the joys and the tragedies) to make me the person who writes these
words.
All books are a team effort, and to say otherwise, would be unfair to the many people
who helped make it happen.
First to all, credit must go to my Professional bra-making students, all of whom spend
several months learning bra design, draft, fit and construction in our school in Hamilton,
Ontario. You, ladies, were the inspiration for this book. I apologize that the book was not
in its final format (and not many drawings) when many of you were studying!
Next, thanks to the 5,000 women who took my Personal Bra-making classes all over
Canada and the United States. You were the “real-life” models, on whom I tested and
modified my patterns, so I could make them better.
I can’t forget to thank my team of Certified Instructors who are actively teaching the
home sewist to make her own bras. These ladies travel all over the world to bring the
“Beverly Johnson Method of Bra-making” to places I no longer visit. Thank you for your
input and constructive criticism over the years; I rely on your eyes to tell me what needs
improving.
Special thanks to Ray Johnson, my wonderful webmaster, who willingly makes changes
to our website so the information is up and running, and as accurate as possible. Ray
and I co-authored the Trans-Canada Stitcher’s Guide in 1995 and we started Bra-
makers Supply in the basement, so he has been involved since day one. He also
helped with the proofreading and solved all of the computer glitches.
Rochelle Caron made dozens of sample cups as well as proofreading several times.
Judy Lantz, Becky Makellky, Fran Brook and Linda Crawford also helped with the
proofreading.
Of course, I have to thank my partner for all the times we gave up weekend plans
because of “one more chapter” or “one last drawing”.
Lastly, and mostly, thanks to you, Mom, for getting me that first treadle sewing machine,
and encouraging me to pursue a teaching career. Combining the two was the best thing
that could have happened.
Beverly Johnson
The Bra-makers Manual
V
Introduction
I don’t mind telling you, that when I got interested in bra-making, there was absolutely
nothing in print about bra design or bra-making. Surprise! The few words I did find in
one book basically told readers to “leave bra-making to the professionals”. Thanks a lot!
So I called “the professionals”, the bra manufacturers, in order to glean what information
I could about helping women sew their own bras. That’s when I got my second surprise.
No one would tell me anything! The bra-making industry was, and is, extremely
secretive, and whatever trade secrets they learned over the years, they certainly weren’t
sharing with anyone.
I did find out that a career in the industry is a very long, slow learning process.
Graduates of fashion design school (who rarely learn how to draft a bra) are taken in to
work alongside a seasoned pattern-maker. The new apprentice will be given routine
tasks such as correcting line lengths, checking match points and jobs of that nature.
One gal who is now an independent pattern-maker with 35 years in the industry, told me
it took seven years before she was trusted enough to draft an entire bra by herself.
Where are these manufacturers today? Most of the large manufacturers have left this
country to produce their goods off-shore. The golden days of domestic manufacturing
are over.
There is a silver lining to what appears to be the grey cloud of global trading. More and
more, women disappointed with the ill-fitting bras of ready-to-wear, added to the
frustration of finding a bra, only to have it discontinued the next season, have created a
wonderful niche for an enterprising home sewist. Women who can sew, can make bras
for themselves, and may even wish to start making made-to-measure bras for other
women. What a wonderful opportunity for a new business!
Didn’t I tell you there weren’t any books on bra-making? Up until now, there hasn’t been
a book that details the process of bra design, draft, fit and construction. In the following
pages, you will follow the history of the bra and its tumultuous separation from its sister
garment, the corset. Then you will follow the design process, and where to find patterns
for the basic bra. Once you make a bra that fits in the cups, you can change the style
line of that bra to create a virtual library of different styles, and all of them fitting as well
as the original. If you have occasion to make a mastectomy bra, or a nursing bra, even
a strapless bra, those details are here too.
There is no greater gift one woman can do for another than to help her into a
comfortable, supportive, and pretty bra. I hope this book starts you on a wonderful
journey into the satisfying world of the made-to-measure bra-maker.
The process of “getting there” should be as enjoyable as the goal. Enjoy the journey!
Beverly Johnson
VI The Bra-makers
Manual
Dedicated to
three amazing
women in my
life
Viva Arsenault
Gilda MacAdams
Joyce Hall

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The Bra-makers I

2. Terms and Definitions………………..………………..…13-

3. What is Good Fit?………………..……..………...……...24-

4. Making Fabric Choices…………………….…..….……....34-

7. The Construction Process………………………………...89-

8. Fitting to a Live Model………………….…….………123-

9. Style Changes for Fashion………....……………….…..146-

10. Style Changes for Special Needs…………………..……183-

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