Aari Work

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Aari

embroidery of
gujarat

By Vansha Jain
• The origin of Aari can be traced to the 12th
History of aari work century.
• First developed by leather workers in the
western Indian state of Gujarat, it was used to
create embellished footwear.
• In later years, under the patronage of Mughal
emperors, Aari embroidery was done on fine
silk and cotton fabrics exclusively by male
artisans.
• Trade with countries like China and England
brought in interesting design influences. Royal
garments from the 17th century sport rich
oriental landscapes as well as
European botanical morifs like daffodils and
irises, all embroidered using aari technique.
What is aari embroidery?
• Aari gets it's name from 'Aar', which is a small, hooked needle or awl.
• The Aari embroidery technique demands an enormous amount of skill,
training , patience and precision.
• The craftsmen must concentrate on following the fine outlines of the
design, while creating the subtle gradiations of colour required to fill
in the motif.
How is it done?
• First the pattern is carefully drawn on thin
or transparent paper by a specialised
artisan.
• Tiny pinholes are made along the outlines
and the paper is placed on the fabric.
• A special powder is rubbed over the paper
and gets deposited in little dots that go
through the pinholes, creating the outline of
the intricate pattern on the fabric below.
• The fabric is then mounted on a
rectangular , wooden frame, ready for the
Patience and precision: Aari technique

• piled from above, but fed by silk


The Aari needle is
thread brom below the fabric. The craftsmen sit on the
floor, one hand plying the sharp needle and the other
holding the thread in the place.
• Aari craftsmen move the needle swiftly in
repetitive loops, to create an unbelievably fine line of
chain stitches.
• It is common practice to include embellishments like
small beads and sequins in aari work for richer effects.
Gold, silver and copper threads called 'Zari' are also
used to create gorgeous patterns that hark back to the
days of Mughal royalty.
Products

• Shawls
• Cushion covers
• Kurtis
• Blouses
• Bags
• Sarees
Thank you!

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