Yukshin Gardan Sar

Yukshin Gardan Sar (Urdu: یکشن گردن سر) is a high peak in the Shimshal Valley, a village in the Karakoram range in Pakistan. Its height is also often given as 7,469 m (24,505 ft) or 7,641 m (25,069 ft). It lies about 16 km (10 mi) northeast of Khunyang Chhish and 6 km (3.75 mi) northwest of Kanjut Sar. It is flanked on the northwest by the Yazghil Glacier and on the northeast by the Yukshin Gardan Glacier; both drain into the Shimshal River. According to many residents of Shimshal, Yukshin Gardan Sar is the name of the adjacent peak Kanjut Sar, and vice versa. In Shimshal village, the original namings are widely accepted and used, as opposed to what is recognised internationally.

Yukshin Gardan Sar یکشن گردن سر
Yukshin Gardan Sar (background left) and Kanjut Sar (background centre)
Highest point
Elevation	7,530 m (24,700 ft) Ranked 55th
Prominence	1,313 m (4,308 ft)[1]
Coordinates	36°15′00″N 75°22′30″E
Geography
Yukshin Gardan Sar یکشن گردن سر Location in Gilgit-Baltistan Yukshin Gardan Sar یکشن گردن سر Yukshin Gardan Sar یکشن گردن سر (Gilgit Baltistan)
45km 30miles Pakistan 45 42 41 38 35 33 31 28 26 25 24 19 18 15 13 12 11 10 8 7    The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height. Legend： 1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V   Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Location	Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent range	Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	June 26, 1984 by Willi Bauer, Walter Bergmayr, Willi Brandecker, Reinhard Streif (Austrian)
Easiest route	South Ridge: glacier/snow/ice climb

Yukshin Gardan Sar
Simplified Chinese	雅克辛嘎丹峰
Transcriptions

Yukshin Gardan Sar was first climbed in 1984, by a Pakistani-Austrian group, led by Rudolf Wurzer. They ascended via the South Ridge, which they accessed via the Yazghil Glacier on the west side of the peak.

The second ascent followed very shortly after the first, on July 23, 1984. A Pakistani-Japanese group that had been on the mountain simultaneously with the first ascent party switched from their unworkable North Ridge route to make an alpine style ascent of the first ascent route on the South Ridge.

The third ascent of the peak was in 1986, by a Spanish team comprising Alejandro Arranz, Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, and Tomás Miguel. They used the same route as the first-ascent party. According to the Himalayan Index, there have been no other ascents or attempts on this peak since that time.

Notes

1. ^ This prominence figure is approximate.

References

• Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989.
• American Alpine Journal 1985, 1987.
• Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990.