You can add the option fnRowCallback (for DT v1.9) or rowCallback (for DT v1.10) with the DTOptionsBuilder.withOption:

$scope.dtOptions = DTOptionsBuilder.fromSource('data.json')
    .withOption('fnRowCallback', function(nRow, aData, iDisplayIndex, iDisplayIndexFull) {
        // Do your things
        return nRow;
    });

You can find an example here (click on firstName column and item on angular scope is updated).

Thanks for the helpful example.

It leads to another issue, though.

Does running ajax calls via fromSource seem to go against
the "angular way" of getting data from a factory / service?
Maybe I am being thrown off a bit by the separate json file
getting called, but that seems unlikely to be a real
world scenario of an ajax call, especially with an angular app.

DataTables 1.10 has an option for passing data called: 'data'.
http://datatables.net/manual/data

It seems like supplying data via that method would be more
common in angular apps, but I am not seeing that option
available in the code.

No, it's indeed not the "Angular way" to fetch the data.
The problem comes from the fact that Datatables renders once and permanently. It does not re-render the table if we change the value of aaData (or data for v1.10).
I did not manage to find a solution that would satisfy the way we do in Angular.

However, your comment makes me realize that I can use promises instead of an ajax call, something that will look like this:

$scope.dtOptions = DTOptionsBuilder.fromPromise(myFactory.getFoo());

and myFactory will be factory that will use $resource to fetch the data:

angular.module('myModule').factory('myFactory', function($resource) {
    return {
        getFoo: function() {
            return $resource('foo.json').get().$promise;
        }
    };
});

Here an example using fromPromise that uses a promise instead of an Ajax call.