Track 4
Culture-Based Innovation:
A Localized Approach
for Designing
Alaa El Anssary
German University in Cairo
alaa.elanssary@guc.edu.eg
ORCID 0000-0003-1175-3879
Ahmed Wahby
German University in Cairo
ahmed.wahby@guc.edu.eg
Abstract
Egypt’s craft industry encompasses many dependent businesses, while crafts are slowly dissipating in the flourishing
digital age, designers are emerging and becoming more
substantial. Handicrafts are actually in their majority environmentally friendly, offer a quick and short monetary cycle, and
most of all are a reflection of the local culture and identity.
Globally, cultural inspired designs can easily be trendy and
fashionable. This paper argues that designers play a major
role in solving this matter. Culture integration into the new
designs is rather challenging as there is no solid theoretical framework linking design and culture. Designers have
the ability to address how core components of culture can
be embedded in innovative functional objects. The paper
analyses the role of design from the outcome of local startup
project and based on a design intervention conducted in collaboration with the International Labor Office (ILO) in Egypt.
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Keywords
Culture-based Products
Product Innovation
Egyptian Crafts
Design Practice
Design and Social Innovation
Copyright © 2022
diid disegno industriale
industrial design
CC BY-NC-SA
Handicrafts: Current Perspectives
The present status of Egyptian handicrafts is unappreciated and
undeveloped. Many Egyptians view handicrafts as purely decorative
and not practical, and they make these items primarily for tourists.
Despite this stigma, handicrafts are often better for the environment,
have a shorter financial cycle, provide economic independence to
women and families without other means of consistent support,
and, most importantly, are a representation of the local culture and
identity. This means that institutions in authority have a role to play in
advancing, modernizing, and repositioning the craft manufacturing
sector. The goal of making such a contribution is to better the production, design, technology, innovation, and quality of life of craftsmen (Dash, 2010).
The preservation and growth of handicrafts depend critically
on their cultural significance. Razzaghi, and Ramirez (2005) argue
that items having a cultural character are more appealing and are
consequently seen as a source of satisfaction to customers. It’s a
personal expression of the owner and maker, which often inspires
new and interesting ideas. Culturally influenced designs may easily be popular on a global scale. This will eventually lead to parity
between domestic and global markets. There are five main reasons
why the cultural factor is often overlooked when creating products.
It’s challenging to “globalize” these items because of the high cost
of R&D, the inexperience of most designers with cultural integration,
and the difficulty of designing for many cultures at once. Consumers
would rather buy mass-produced, technologically advanced products than artisanal, one-of-a-kind objects. Speaking in general, but
with special emphasis on Africa, Moalasi, et al explains that there is
a lack of in-depth research and appropriate methods in addition to
the nascence of a theoretical framework that combines design and
culture. (Moalosi et al., 2007)
To conclude this section, crafts are fundamental to creativity and
serve as a tool that expresses the country’s image in international
markets. As a result, it is now being used as a creative catalyst in
both industrial and communication designs. This is due to its ability
to distinguish between local and internationally renowned designs
(Dash, 2010).
Italian Findings
For a long time, the idea of handicrafts as a vital economic sector
was overlooked in favor of other mass manufacturing businesses.
For example, Bertacchini and Borrione (2013) pointed out a debate
that has been going on in Italy for some time despite the country’s
long history of artistic achievement and the prevalence of design in
its consumer goods. Specifically, 2007 was the first year that a report
on Italian inventiveness was published. Focusing on the creation of
new cultural and creative output rather than only preserving existing works of art is a key recommendation of the 2007 report on the
creative industries. They use the UNCTAD 2008 report to further
explain that “looking at the external trade statistics of creative goods,
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Italy ranks among the leading creative economies when design and
fashion items are included. Consequently, this paper argues that
the Egyptian economy would benefit greatly from the handicrafts
sector if the sector adopted three interdependent factors: designed
marketing strategies, the addition of new values (mainly cultural), and
innovation.
Designed Marketing Strategies
Researching about marketing strategies will compile a lot of literature, however very few actually relate design to the marketing strategies. Bruce and Daly (2007), suggest that firms should evaluate the
role of design from a marketing perspective; thus, the term designed
marketing was established. The relationship between managing
design and marketing, nevertheless, is not entirely obvious. The significance of managing design arises from the need for marketing and
design skills to be able to adapt to user’s needs and then communicate brand values through not only the product but through its way of
showcasing whether packaging, brand image, or advertising. Design
is essential since it is the “visual manifestation” of marketing and
thus communicates the brand’s values to consumers. At a certain
point, design was seen only as a functional tool to support marketing.
Nowadays, however, designers are more regarded for their ability to
make strategic decisions and contribute to leadership without direct
supervision. In addition, design also boosts innovation, improving a
company’s intellectual property and ultimately its competitive edge.
This knowledge is crucial because it recognizes design as a tool for
sustainable innovation and creativity.
Furthermore, studies have shown that a marketing approach
aimed at local customers may succeed in reaching an international
clientele. For instance, Balcioglu and Emgin (2014) noted that Western models were already popular among Turkey’s higher classes;
thus, Turkish designers just imitated them. Local Turkish designs
emerged on the global stage in the 1990s, after the country’s economic rise. Turkish designers have improved the home market in
hopes of gaining a worldwide audience, and this is largely owing to
the pragmatic design approach adopted from local cultural resources.
The goal of this strategy was to promote Turkish design internationally as a brand, therefore meeting the desire for novelty in foreign
markets. Taiwan has used a similar tactic. Lin claims that Taiwanese
designers are becoming confident in their ability to introduce their
own cultural style to the global economic market (Lin, 2007).
Adding New Aspects; Reintroducing Cultural Values
According to Balcıoglu and Emgin, (2014) The Turkish designers’
emphasis on national cultural notions was an effort to develop a
national design style, rather than a strategy for increasing their part
of the global market. Lin (2007) claims that cross-cultural design
will impact future design appreciation. This means that designers
need to expand their experiences not only with cross-cultural factors
but equally important are the knowledge of local elements. Inter-
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estingly, Balcioglu and Emgin (2014) argue that understanding the
importance and positive future effects of the new design strategy,
the Turks coined the concept of Turkishness of Products. The term
triggered the designers to opt for Turkish cultural products which
prompted Turkish designers to re-identify their own local culture
and represent it in an innovative modern way. The iconic Turkish tea
glass in the form of a tulip is used as an illustration of this approach
as this cup is considered the most Turkish product. According to
Kaygan (2006), a Turkish tea ceremony wouldn’t be complete without
this glass. Designer Erdem Akan gave this traditional Turkish custom a modern makeover, resulting in the East Meets West tea cup
seen in Fig. 1. Here, a traditional strategy was adopted in promoting
a traditional object into contemporary technological conditions and
aesthetic conventions.
Fig. 1
Designer Erdem Akan,
East Meets West teacup.
http://www.erdemakan.
com/accesories/eastmeetswest-teaglass.html
(accessed 20/04/2016)
Innovation: Introduction of New Concepts
and/or New Functions)
Innovation is an important aspect because old-fashioned products
do not appeal to clients. In addition, being updated with the changes
in consumer tastes and preferences is what pushes artisans forward
to change their crafts. Yet the new change should attract present
customers, as well as encourage designers to work accordingly
fulfilling the demands of customers. (Dash, 2010). Thus, according
to Bruce and Daly (2007) design is fundamental to retaining success and maintaining competitiveness in the market. Consequently,
designers and producers need to develop their creations, whether
products or services, in order to be able to create new markets. New
approaches emerged to create further market goals to either maintain current position or create new markets.
This paper has argued so far that local cultural elements are
essential to developing a design strategy that results in a well-defined product identity, which is necessary for success in a global
market. It is now common knowledge that including cultural elements in a product’s design increases its value.
According to Lin (2007) Industrial Design plays the leading role in this process. He further forwards the notion that products created to emphasize local cultural elements are becoming
more established in the design process. According to Dash (2010)
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Designers are the ones who anticipate design-related problems,
try to address them in light of what may be needed in the future,
and ultimately enhance the existing product. Furthermore, design
determines the products’ shape, function, way to use, material, and
manufacturing processes.
Egyptian Case Studies
Design interventions for the Red Sea Artisans
Within the framework of Decent Jobs Egypt’s Young People Project created by the International Labor Organization (ILO) in Cairo,
a design intervention was conducted for business development
services for Red Sea artisans and handicrafts sector to maximize its
potential in employment creation and to make the Red Sea handicrafts sector attractive. Believing that design has an advantage
in fostering the external and internal rational between producers,
products, and markets broadens the scope of the core value chain
players (artisans/NGOs.). Therefore, an intervention to build new
capacity and to create a supportive enabling environment became
crucial. Essential to this was to develop a range of new products
that turn these crafts into lucrative businesses for the artisans and
attract new entrants to learn and practice the craft. For these tasks a
group of 8 designers with various design and practical backgrounds
were selected including product; graphic; and media designers. They
have been invited to visit the project locations in the Red Sea area to
familiarize themselves with the people, the crafts and the locations to
figure out the uniqueness of each aspect.
The assignment started its first phase which involved the
review of available data about the sector in the Red Sea and a field
visit to the areas of focus to form an initial idea about the situation of
the sector. The initial field visit included interviews with artisans at
the Red Sea. The focus of all interviews was the quest for available
data and information about the handicrafts sector and the artisans
in the areas of Ras Ghareb, Hurgada, Safaga, Qusseir and Shalateen.
The needs assessment survey covered the two main components
of the sector: the traditional products produced by 99 artisans and
combined by a semi-structured interview with three NGOs working
in these areas. At this point and due to the huge data extracted from
the survey and interviews, we focused on the need for new designs
as the crafts in the Red Sea lend themselves to endless opportunities and diversity for development. However, as illustrated in Fig. 2
marketing, raw materials, tools and money are the most frequently
mentioned needs to make the Artisans better at their crafts.
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Nevertheless, functionality, trendiness, quality of materials and level
of finishing were all essential elements in the process of product
development. The products made by the designers are appropriate for everyday use. By following clear instructions provided by
designers, individual producers from the artisans’ group have been
selected to perform direct intensive work (through workshops) resulting in the development of a range of new high-quality products that
are appropriately priced, saleable, and appropriate for local, national,
and international markets. By using a strategy of coaching, a range
of final products including basketry, leather products, kilim, crochet,
and khayameya work were developed in the form of prototypes with
packaging materials from selected producers, complete with pricing
and quality standards, which can be offered to existing and new customers. Samples of the products developed over a one-year project
can be seen in Fig. 3.
Fig. 2
ILO report. Marketing,
Raw Materials, Tools and
Money are the most frequently mentioned needs
to make the Artisans
better at their crafts.
Fig. 3
ILO project. Design intervention results.
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Packaging was an integral component of the marketing strategy and
supports the identity of the brand. The designs of eco-friendly packages that suit the various products accommodated the products’
sizes, shapes, fragility, travel, in addition to appeal. The production of
packages from recycled paper or local fabrics has been considered.
On the other hand, an inside-out marketing perspective contributed
to the promotion strategy and plan to cover the promotional messages by creating the brand identity for this project by designing the
logo, promotional materials, hang tags, business cards, packaging
materials and providing the storytelling. The project also involves
providing the storyboard for the promotional movie and a plan for the
launch of the brand. (Rifaat & Al Gazzar, 2013)
The role of the designers in the implementation phase was
mainly supervision, and to follow up the steps of productions. This
role was divided into 2 essential phases: The Roll Out phase & the
Exit phase. In the Roll Out phase the designs and technical training
were accomplished in parallel with capacity-building training and
launching the Red Sea crafts brand. In the Exit phase several activities were repeated, namely a design and product development project for new items to be added to the collection, the development of a
website for the brand, the organization of another round of technical
and capacity-building training for new member NGOs and artisans in
view of creating a pool of in-house trainers.
The role of design from the outcome
of Local Startup Project
In recent years, several local startups projects in Egypt with a focus
on innovating current craft products and introducing new designs
have been initiated and successfully implemented to transform traditional crafts into modern and innovative products. Menn Baladha
project presents a case study in which the goal of students and
lecturer was to establish a link between design and craft pottery and
its richness in culture and authenticity. Rather than seeking new
products, the involved designers tried to re-add new functions to the
simple Egyptian traditional clay pot used for baking food in ovens
called Tagen. This product is known to be inexpensive yet healthier
than most metal pots. Egyptians commonly believe that the taste of
foods baked in a Tagen is much more refined than dishes cooked in
other containers. The Tagen was chosen as the first clay example to
be redesigned for many reasons: First, it is a very traditional Egyptian
product with roots extending to ancient Egypt. Second, many Egyptians tend to neglect the Tagen since it does not meet the modern
life style; it reflects a poor personality on the dining table. Third,
many users do not prefer the Tagen due to difficulties in handling and
cleaning. Fourth, the Tagen is a healthy product that does not react
with the food it contains.
The process started with intensive research and field visits
by the students in which they observed the traditional Tagen production techniques and tools used. The students gained a lot of insights
by observing and discussing with the craftsmen and the workshop
owners. Market research was also conducted and Egyptian consumers were interviewed (class A, age group 30-40s targeted) regarding
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their conception of the cooking utensils. The core of design process
was to analyze the gathered research data and field experiences in
order to initiate inspiration, fresh preceptive, and redefine the cultural features in a modern way. The following step was visualizing
different concepts. The main obstacle was manipulating traditional
knowledge and adding to a deeply rooted culture-based product that
has fulfilled its purpose for thousands of years. Another obstacle was
the clay material itself; how to modernize something perceived as
archaic the way clay is seen by the target group.
The design solutions were addressed through a design-oriented approach to improving the traditional Tagen’s usability and by
introducing new practical features to the cooking techniques. The
new items added to the Tagen highlight how it functions: first, the
edges became thicker for better heat distribution. Second, a lid was
introduced not only to maintain the gained heat inside the Tagen,
but also to create a compositional balance between the pot and its
lid and added greatly to the appearance and status of the product.
Third, two sturdy handles were created to achieve more control and
balance while manoeuvring. Fourth, a second tagen was designed to
fit one on top of the other. The upper Tagen had a perforated base to
function as a steamer, allowing the user to cook two different dishes
simultaneously. Fig. 4
Fig. 4
Menn Baladha local startups project. Design and
craft pottery development
In addressing the problem concerning the archaic appearance of the
clay material and in order to publicize different aesthetic senses, the
visual values of the Tagen were reconsidered by concentrating on its
surfaces. The lid, as well as other parts of the Tagen, were painted
either with plain vivid colors or with added patterns evoking a unique
emotional character for each Tagen.
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Fig. 5
The four factors necessary for developing
handicraft products.
A positive intervention in the community is one that builds on existing relations and promotes synergies. To start, it is necessary to
assess the current existing handicrafts sector to see if it fulfils the
functional and cultural needs of the intended target groups. Contemporary and updated human needs must be observed and defined
carefully in order to guarantee an innovative product that meets a
need. The handicrafts community, whether individual artisans or
NGO board members should focus on developing the sector and
be willing to work together and cooperate to maximise the handicrafts business for the best interest of the artisans. The craftsmen
should avoid resistance in accepting new ideas and techniques
that are different from what they have been doing traditionally for
ages. Innovative products encompass not only the form, but also
the function whether traditional, added, or introduced. Furthermore,
the production material and techniques should be given prominent
care. As argued earlier in this paper, the cultural aspect of the newly
introduced products is very important as it not only helps market the
product to locals, but also gives it a competitive edge on an international level. The semantics of any product developed along the lines
of a cultural background give it a unique identifiable character.
Evaluation and Conclusion
The strength of design lies in approaching problems from different
perspectives with the aim of not only developing new expendable
forms or functions that are re-marketed but also managing the
situation while respecting its cultural and social environment. In the
Egyptian context, design emerges as a separate entity that does not
respond to many issues when it comes to the integration of culture
in design. Findings from the literature presented and the participation in the development of Egyptian crafts indicated that traditional
crafts possess the elements of development and modernization, but
mostly suffers from the absence of contemporary needs of daily life
products represented in the creation of form and function. In addition
to the previous fact, the craftsmen are the heroes of this dilemma as
they are the designers and marketers simultaneously. Handicrafts
practices in Egypt remain a reproducible activity of cultural patterns
and the designs are not in touch with the market trends and fall short
of having consistent quality standards. As for heritage crafts, while
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Alaa El Anssary
Graduated from the faculty
of Applied Arts at Helwan
University in Cairo and
completed his postgraduate studies and obtained
his PhD in Design Sciences
from the Faculty of Art
and Design (Folkwang
Hochschule der Künste), in
Germany. Since 2007, he
is working as a Professor
at the Product Design
Department, German University in Cairo and as well
as working as a freelance
designer and consultant
for different design studios,
NGOs and manufacturing
organizations in Egypt.
Ahmed Wahby
Graduated in 1992 with
a degree in Architecture
from Ain Shams University
in Cairo Egypt. In 2000 he
obtained an MA degree in
Islamic Art and Architecture
from the American University in Cairo, AUC where he
had worked as a research
assistant for more than
4 years. In 2008 he was
awarded his Ph. D degree
in Islamic Art, Architecture
and Archaeology from the
Oriental Department of the
Otto-Friedrich University, School of Human
Sciences, Art and Culture,
in Bamberg, Germany. Dr.
Wahby has been teaching
since 2008 at the German
University in Cairo GUC, the
Faculty of Applied Sciences
and Arts. He has numerous
publications in local and
international journals.
fully respecting their ethnic identity, they still lack quality in finishing
and their designs could be developed to appeal to larger segments
of consumers (ILO, 2013). The cycles illustrated in Fig. 5 show the four
factors necessary for developing the handicraft sector products that
need a level of integration that should be monitored and understood.
The argument concerning the relationship between the
designer and craftsman and the role of designers in the craft section has already been demonstrated by Dormer, (1997) in his edited
volume the culture of craft the designer is not ‘expendable’ as long
as they are not designing for their own needs. Their role and importance stem from the fact that they are able to design according to the
needs of others. Building on this notion, this paper argues that the
Designer is the key player in connecting the four elements demonstrated in Fig. 5 in order to reach a highly innovative product able to
compete on many levels. Through education, skills, and training, the
Designer has the ability to comprehend and transform established
cultural elements as well as new trends, materials and techniques
towards creating new products. They also have the ability to communicate on different levels, macro and micro, using sophisticated
terminology when dealing with international entities in marketing
for example and local language when collaborating or instructing
a manufacturing process to small workshops. Because marketing
requires branding, As El Anssary (2009) demonstrates that the
designer has a holistic approach to the creation of a new product as
their role extends to the creation of a brand that gives the product a
well-received market value. According to the case studies discussed
above, and following the need assessment findings, and the analysis
of the existing production processes of some crafts sectors in Egypt
with emphasis on the two case studies presented in this paper, the
conclusion is reached that the sector will only be attractive to craftsmen and capable of job creation when its production processes are
under the influence of experienced designers. Finally, the role of
the designer is not only to create profit, but he also needs to make a
difference in society.
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