In a city of more than 26 million, the scenes playing out around Shanghai's Fuxing Park make for a pleasing tableau. There are elderly couples performing their daily routine of tai chi under a big-leafed tree. A group of women dressed in tracksuits twirling their diabolos in the bright sunshine. And an elderly gent wearing a jaunty cap sending soulful riffs towards the sky with his saxophone. This serene oasis