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Lonely Planet Best of China
Lonely Planet Best of China
Lonely Planet Best of China
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Lonely Planet Best of China

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Lonely Planet: The world's leading travel guide publisher

Lonely Planet Best of China is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Explore the Forbidden City in Beijing, marvel at the Terracotta Warriors in Xi'an, or wander around the pagodas and lilting willows of Hangzhou's West Lake -all with your trusted travel companion. Discover the best of China and begin your journey now!

Inside Lonely Planet Best of China:

  • Full-colour maps and images throughout
  • Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests
  • Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
  • Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices
  • Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sight-seeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
  • Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, festivals, cuisine, architecture, religion, environment, wildlife, painting, literature, film
  • Free, convenient pull-out Beijing map (print version)
  • Covers Beijing, Great Wall, Xi'an, Shanghai, Three Gorges, Huangshan, Hangzhou, Yangshuo, Fenghuang, Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Sichuan, Macau, Yunnan and more

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet Best of China, our easy-to-use guide, filled with inspiring and colorful photos, focuses on China's most popular attractions for those looking for the best of the best.

  • Looking for a comprehensive guide that recommends both popular and offbeat experiences, and extensively covers all the country has to offer? Check out Lonely Planet China guide.
  • Looking for a guide for Beijing or Shanghai? Check out Lonely Planet Beijing guide and Lonely Planet Shanghai guide for a comprehensive look at all these cities have to offer; Lonely Planet Pocket Beijing and Lonely Planet Pocket Shanghai, handy-sized guides focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

About Lonely Planet: Since 1973, Lonely Planet has become the world's leading travel media company with guidebooks to every destination, an award-winning website, mobile and digital travel products, and a dedicated traveller community. Lonely Planet covers must-see spots but also enables curious travellers to get off beaten paths to understand more of the culture of the places in which they find themselves. The world awaits!

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves, it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' - Fairfax Media

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' - New York Times

LanguageEnglish
PublisherLonely Planet
Release dateMay 1, 2017
ISBN9781787010536
Lonely Planet Best of China
Author

Damian Harper

Con dos licenciaturas (una de ellas en chino clásico y moderno por la SOAS University of London), Damian Harper ha colaborado con Lonely Planet desde hace dos décadas, en destinos tan dispares como China, Vietnam, Tailandia, Irlanda, Londres, Mallorca, Malasia, Singapur, Brunéi, Hong Kong y Reino Unido. Este curtido autor de viajes ha escrito artículos para numerosos periódicos y revistas, como The Guardian y The Daily Telegraph, y actualmente reside en Surrey (Inglaterra). Se le puede seguir en Instagram (damian.harper).

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  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    The usual LP package of general information and detailed guides on places no other guidebook mentions. However, due to the sheer size of China the number of cities contained is limited (some provinces have less than ten entries). Chinese characters are given for town names, maps contain characters too. Prices rarely match, but are highly variable and negotiable in most places anyway.

Book preview

Lonely Planet Best of China - Damian Harper

Best of China

Top Sights, Authentic Experiences

Contents

Plan Your Trip

China's Top 12

Need to Know

Hot Spots For...

Local Life

Month by Month

Get Inspired

Itineraries

Family Travel

Běijīng

Forbidden City

Tiānānmén Square

Temple of Heaven Park

Summer Palace

Ming Tombs

Sights

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

The Great Wall

Climbing the Great Wall

Shānxī

Historic Píngyáo

Yúngāng Caves

Píngyáo

Sights

Tours

Eating

Dàtóng

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Xī’ān & the Terracotta Warriors

The Terracotta Warriors

Huá Shān

Xī'ān

Sights

Tours

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shànghǎi

Exploring the Bund

Yùyuán Gardens & Bazaar

The French Concession

Sights

Activities

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Huángshān & Huīzhōu Villages

Climbing Huángshān

The Huīzhōu Villages

Túnxī

Sights

Tours

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Hong Kong & Macau

Victoria Peak

Central District

Colonial Macau

Hong Kong

Sights

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Macau

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Guǎngxī & the Lí River

Exploring Yángshùo

Lóngjǐ Rice Terraces

Yángshùo

Sights

Activities

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Guìlín

Sights

Activities

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Yúnnán

Yuányáng Rice Terraces

Lìjiāng's Old Town

Hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge

Lìjiāng

Sights

Activities

Tours

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Dàlǐ

Sights

Activities

Tours

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Sìchuān

Éméi Shān

Lè Shān's Grand Buddha

Chéngdū

Sights

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

The Yangzi River

Cruising the Yangzi River

Chóngqìng

Sights

Tours

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Yíchāng

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Gānsù & the Silk Road

Mògāo Grottoes

Labrang Monastery

Jiāyùguān Fort

Dūnhuáng

Sights

Tours

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Jiāyùguān

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Lánzhōu

Sights

Activities

Shopping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

In Focus

China Today

History

People of China

Chinese Cuisine

Arts & Architecture

Religion & Beliefs

China's Landscapes

Survival Guide

Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Climate

Bargaining

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Food

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBT Travellers

Money

Opening Hours

Passports

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to China

China. The name alone makes you want to get packing. It's going places, so jump aboard, go along for the ride and see where it's headed.

Karst landscapes along the Lí River, near Yángshuò, Guǎngxī | APHOTOSTORY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

China is vast. Off-the-scale massive. A riveting jumble of wildly varying dialects and climatic and topographical extremes, it's like several different countries rolled into one. Take your pick from the ethnic mix of the southwest, the yak-butter illuminated temples of Xiàhé, a journey along the dusty Silk Road or getting into your glad rags for a night on the Shànghǎi tiles. You're spoilt for choice: whether you’re an urban traveller, hiker, cyclist, explorer, backpacker, irrepressible museum-goer or faddish foodie, China’s diversity is second to none.

And few countries do the Big Outdoors like the Middle Kingdom. China's landscapes span the range from alpha to omega: take your pick from the sublime mist-wreathed peaks of Huángshān or the impassive deserts of Gānsù, island-hopping in Hong Kong or biking between the fairy-tale karst pinnacles around Yángshuò. Swoon before the rice terraces of the south, take a selfie among the gorgeous yellow rapeseed of Shèxiàn or hike the Great Wall as it meanders across mountain peaks. Get lost in green forests of bamboo or, if you really want to show off to your friends back home, hike through one of the world's deepest and most dramatic canyons – Tiger Leaping Gorge in Yúnnán.

It’s all there, ready and waiting.

Plan Your Trip

China's Top 12

1 Běijīng

Běijīng is China's supreme historic capital

It's so modern in parts it's easy to forget this ancient capital was home to Mongol, Ming and Manchu emperors. Few cities can boast a history so dramatic or turbulent as Běijīng: repeatedly razed and restored to reassert its authority as capital of a land that is today home to almost 1.4 billion people and with the Forbidden City at its heart, Běijīng is the must-see city in China.

Wangjing Soho at night, Beijing | LU JINRONG / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

2 The Great Wall

China's greatest engineering feat meanders haphazardly across the north of the land

Spotting it from space is both tough and pointless: the only place you can truly put the Great Wall under your feet is in China. Select the Great Wall according to taste: perfectly chiselled, dilapidated, stripped of its bricks, overrun with saplings, coiling splendidly into the hills or returning to dust.

The Great Wall | CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

3 Xī’ān & the Terracotta Warriors

Former Tang dynasty capital and one of China's most ancient cities

Standing silent guard over their emperor for over two millennia, the terracotta warriors are one of the most extraordinary archaeological discoveries ever made. Xī’ān itself stands among China's most appealing destinations, stuffed with dynastic history, boasting a superb city wall, and cooking up some of the best food in the land.

Terracotta Warriors | HUNG_CHUNG_CHIH / GETTY IMAGES ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

4 Shànghǎi

Shànghǎi typifies modern China, while being unlike anywhere else in the land

More than just a city, Shànghǎi is the country’s neon-lit beacon of change, opportunity and modernity. Whether it's your first stop in China, or you're pulling in after a 30-hour train journey from Gānsù, you'll find plenty to indulge in here. Start with the Bund and move on to the French Concession, Shànghǎi's epicentre of food, fashion and fun.

Shànghǎi | 123ARTISTIMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

5 Guǎngxī & the Lí River

Cycle, raft or hike the picture-perfect landscape

It’s hard to exaggerate the beauty of Yángshuò and the Lí River area, renowned for classic images of mossy-green jagged limestone peaks providing a backdrop for tall bamboo fronds leaning over bubbling streams, wallowing water buffaloes and farmers sowing rice paddies.

Guǎngxī & the Lí River | VADIM PETRAKOV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

6 Gānsù & the Silk Road

Boasting ancient Buddhist artefacts, geographic diversity and adventures galore

An impressive length of the historic Silk Road runs through Gānsù province, dotted with sublime fragments of Buddhist civilisations, including the outstanding Mògāo Grottoes, and leading to the mighty desert fort of Jiāyùguān, while also guiding travellers to the atmospheric Tibetan Buddhist enclave of Xiàhé and Labrang Monastery.

Gānsù | DEA / G. DAGLI ORTI / GETTY IMAGES ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

7 Hong Kong & Macau

Past foreign rule lends these territories a unique feel and a different way of life

Way down south in China's energetic Cantonese heartland, Hong Kong is an enticing fusion of traditional Chinese culture, international savoir faire and some of the best chow money can buy. The views across Victoria Harbour are stunning, too. And don't forget Macau, a photogenic city with bundles of Portuguese heritage (and more of that excellent food).

Hong Kong | ZHU DIFENG / SHUTTERSTOCK

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

8 Yúnnán

A combination of superlative sites and ethnic groups

Yúnnán is China's most diverse province, both in its extraordinary mix of peoples and in the splendour of its landscapes, making it the trendiest destination for China’s exploding domestic tourist industry. Most visitors are here for Lìjiāng, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Dàlǐ and the Yuányáng Rice Terraces, and you should be too.

Shānxī | MEIQIANBAO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

9 Shānxī

Waist-deep in living history

Shānxī brings you face to face with time-warped Píngyáo – an intact, walled Chinese town possessing an unbroken sense of continuity to its Qing dynasty heyday. The dusty province is also home to the astonishing Buddhist heritage of the Yúngāng Caves, while nearby Dàtóng is an increasingly handsome city worth several days of exploration.

Yúngāng Caves | BEIBAOKE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

10 Huángshān & Huīzhōu Villages

Home to archetypal granite peaks, graceful pines and picturesque hamlets

Often shrouded in mist and offering some of the most sublime images of pine-clad peaks, Huángshān has a pull that attracts millions of annual visitors. Also within the same region are perfectly preserved Hui villages, including Xīdì and Hóngcūn. Unesco, Ang Lee and Zhang Yimou were captivated – you will be too.

Huángshān | CHRISTOPHE BOISVIEUX / ROBERT HARDING ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

11 The Yangzi River

Few panoramas have inspired as much awe as China's longest, most scenic river

The mighty Yangzi River reaches a crescendo with the Three Gorges, carved out throughout the millennia by the inexorable persistence of its powerful waters. A Yangzi River cruise is a rare chance to hang up your travelling hat, take a seat and leisurely watch the drama unfold.

Three Gorges, Yangzi River | VIEWSTOCK / GETTY IMAGES ©

CHINA'S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP

12 Sìchuān

A land of many guises, including China's most famous face - the giant panda

Capital Chéngdū shows a modern face, but just beyond its bustling ring roads you'll find a more traditional landscape of mist-shrouded, sacred mountains, a countryside scattered with ancient villages, and cliffs of carved Buddhas. And don't overlook China's spiciest cuisine (not that you'll be able to miss it).

Giant pandas | WIBOWO RUSLI / GETTY IMAGES

Plan Your Trip

Need to Know

Currency

yuán (元; ¥)

Language

Mandarin, Cantonese

Visas

Needed for all visits to China except Hong Kong, Macau and trips of less than 72 hours to a number of cities including Běijīng, Shànghǎi, Xī'ān, Guìlín, Chéngdū, Kūnmíng and Chóngqìng.

Money

Credit cards in big cities accepted, elsewhere less widely accepted. ATMs in cities and towns.

Mobile Phones

Pay-as-you-go SIM cards can be bought locally for most mobile phones.

Time

GMT/UTC plus eight hours

When to Go

High Season May–Aug

o Prepare for summer downpours and tourist crowds.

o Accommodation prices peak during the first week of the May holiday period.

Shoulder Feb–Apr, Sep & Oct

o Expect warmer days in spring, cooler days in autumn.

o Optimal season in the north, with fresh weather and clear skies.

o Accommodation prices peak during holidays in early October.

Low Season Nov–Feb

o Domestic tourism at a low ebb, but things are busy for Chinese New Year.

o Bitterly cold in the north and at altitude, and only warm in the far south.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than ¥200

o Dorm bed: ¥40 to ¥60

o Food markets, street food: ¥40

o Bike hire or other transport: ¥20

Midrange: ¥200–1000

o Double room in a midrange hotel: ¥200 to ¥600

o Lunch and dinner in local restaurants: ¥80 to ¥100

o Taxis: ¥60

Top end: More than ¥1000

o Double room in a top-end hotel: ¥600 and up

o Lunch and dinner in excellent local or hotel restaurants: ¥300

o Two tickets to Chinese opera: ¥300

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/china) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Ctrip (www.english.ctrip.com) Hotel booking, air and train ticketing.

Chinasmack (www.chinasmack.com) Human-interest stories and videos.

Popupchinese (www.popupchinese.com) Excellent podcasts.

Far West China (www.farwestchina.com) Indispensable resource for Silk Roaders.

Opening Hours

China officially has a five-day working week; Saturday and Sunday are public holidays.

Banks Open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm (or 6pm); may close for two hours in the afternoon. Many also open Saturday and maybe Sunday.

Bars Open in the late afternoon, shutting around midnight or later.

Post offices Generally open daily.

Restaurants Open from around 10.30am to 11pm; some shut at around 2pm and reopen at 5pm or 6pm.

Shops Open daily 10am to 10pm; same for department stores and shopping malls.

Arriving in China

Běijīng Capital Airport

Train Airport Express connects to subway lines 2, 10 and 13; every 10 minutes from 6am to 10.30pm

Bus Express buses run to central Běijīng; every 10 to 20 minutes from 5am to midnight

Taxi ¥90 to ¥120; 40 minutes to one hour into town

Pǔdōng International Airport

Train Maglev train connects to Longyang Rd metro station; every 20 minutes from 6.45am to 9.40pm. Metro Line 2 takes 45 minutes to People's Square

Bus Shuttle buses run every 15 to 25 minutes from 7am to 11pm

Taxi ¥160; one hour into town

Hong Kong International Airport

Train Airport Express runs to Hong Kong Station in Central every 12 minutes

Bus Spread out to many Hong Kong destinations

Taxi HK$280 to Central; luggage is HK$5 extra

Getting Around

Train Extensive modern network covers the nation; high-speed trains connect many cities

Bus Extensive network; cheaper and slower than the train, but reaches extra destinations and runs more regularly

Air Numerous domestic flights

Car Limited but growing options; roads chaotic

Taxis Cheap and plentiful in cities and big towns

For more, see the

Plan Your Trip

Hot Spots For...

Chinese Food

Probably your first experience of China, Chinese cuisine has a global following, but if you want the real thing, you've simply got to visit the homeland of Chinese food.

FISHWORK / GETTY IMAGES ©

Ancient Towns

North China is home to old dynastic capitals and walled towns that conjure up flavours of the China of yesteryear. If history floats your boat, you'll be spoiled for choice.

YUSTINUS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Hiking

China's epic landscapes are made for hiking so you'll never be short of reasons to get your walking shoes on. Mountains, gorges, terraced fields and the Great Wall: everything you could want.

OSTILL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sacred China

China's sacred dimension can be easy to miss in the big cities, but a palpable atmosphere of religious devotion is not hard to find beyond town, on mountains and in caves.

MEIQIANBAO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip

Local Life

Activities

All manner of activities are available around China. Grab copies of expat magazines in Běijīng, Hong Kong and Shànghǎi for information on sports such as golf, running, horse riding, cycling, football, cricket, hiking and trekking, hot-air ballooning, martial arts, swimming, ice skating, skiing, skateboarding, waterskiing and rock climbing, as well as more Chinese-centric activities such as classes in cooking, Chinese herbal medicine, acupuncture, taichi, qì gōng and beyond.

Shopping

You can find almost anything in China, and at low prices. Only imported goods and big-name electronics are more expensive than elsewhere (even if they're manufactured here). Antiques markets are good for curios, but never take anything at face value (its best to treat items more as souvenirs). Check out the big garment markets in larger cities for cut-price clothing, while bird and flower markets are excellent for a taste of local life, with locals browsing for flowers, pet birds, crickets and fish. Bargaining in markets is crucial; be firm, but polite.

Entertainment

Chinese opera – especially in Běijīng – is a colourful must-see (even if you don't understand it). International musicals are performed, though often in Chinese and usually in the big towns. Some local theatres in the largest cities perform in English or even bilingually.

China's music stages feature everything from local bands to traditional performances and martial arts. To catch some informal singing, dancing, taichi or playing of traditional instruments, visit a public square or park in the evening or early morning.

SHUPIAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Eating

Snacking your way around China is a fine way to sample the different flavours of the land while on the move. Most towns have a street market or a night market (夜市; yèshì), a great place for good-value snacks and meals; you can either take it away or park yourself on a wobbly stool and grab a beer.

Chinese eateries come in every conceivable shape, size and type: from shabby, hole-in-the-wall noodle outfits with flimsy PVC furniture, blaring TV sets and well-worn plastic menus to gilded, banquet-style restaurants where elegant cheongsam-clad waitresses show you to your seat, straighten your chopsticks and bring you a warm hand towel and a gold-embossed wine list. In between are legions of very serviceable midrange restaurants serving cuisine from across China.

English menus are on the increase and most reputable or popular places should have one, but they are vastly outnumbered by restaurants with menus solely in Chinese.

VICHIE81 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Drinking & Nightlife

There are plenty of bars in larger cities, especially Hong Kong, Běijīng and Shànghǎi, many of them aimed at Western travellers or Chinese drinkers seeking a foreign vibe. Visit Western-style pubs to connect with travellers and homesick expats, listen to Western live music and often be treated to a non-Chinese menu. Hong Kong, Běijīng and Shànghǎi have the most club options, with home-grown electronic music on the rise. Cocktail bars are very popular in the big cities, and even in smaller towns you can usually find a selection of bars serving the more cashed-up drinkers in town, even if they are in four- and five-star hotels.

Bars aimed specifically at Chinese are great for experiencing local life, but tend to be noisier and more aimed at the KTV crowd.

China's Best Bars

Great Leap Brewing

Glam

Long Bar

Club 71

Ping Pong Gintoneria

Plan Your Trip

Month by Month

January

North China is in deep freeze, but the south is less bitter; preparations for the Lunar New Year get under way well in advance of the festival, which arrives any time between late January and March.

Spring Festival

The Lunar New Year is family-focused, with dumpling feasts and hóngbāo (red envelopes stuffed with money) gifts. Most families eat together on New Year’s Eve, then China goes on a big weeklong holiday. Expect fireworks, parades, temple fairs and lots of colour.

Spring Festival decorations, Shānxī | MEIQIANBAO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

February

North China remains shockingly icy and dry, but things are slowly warming up in Hong Kong and Macau. The Lunar New Year could well be under way, but sort out your tickets well in advance.

Monlam Great Prayer Festival

Held during two weeks from the third day of the Tibetan New Year and celebrated with spectacular processions (except in Lhasa or the Tibet Autonomous Region); huge silk thangka (sacred art) are unveiled and, on the last day, a statue of the Maitreya Buddha is conveyed around.

Lantern Festival

Held 15 days after the spring festival, this was traditionally a time when Chinese hung out highly decorated lanterns. Píngyáo in Shānxī is an atmospheric place to soak it up.

March

China comes to life after a long winter, although it remains glacial at high altitudes. The mercury climbs in Hong Kong and abrasive dust storms billow into Běijīng, scouring everything in their path. It's still low season.

Fields of Yellow

Delve into the countryside in the south to discover a landscape saturated in bright yellow rapeseed. In some parts of China, including lovely Yángshuò, it’s a real tourist draw.

April

Most of China is warm and it’s a good time to be on the road. The Chinese take several days off for the Qīngmíng festival, a traditional date for honouring their ancestors and now an official holiday.

A Good Soaking

Flush away the dirt, demons and sorrows of the old year and bring in the new during the Dai New Year, with its water-splashing festival in Xīshuāngbǎnnà. Taking an umbrella is pointless.

Third Moon Festival

This Bai ethnic minority festival is an excellent reason to pitch up in the lovely north Yúnnán town of Dàlǐ. It’s a week of horse racing, singing and merrymaking from the 15th day of the third lunar month (usually April) to the 21st.

Formula One

Petrol heads and aficionados of speed, burnt rubber and hairpin bends flock to Shànghǎi for some serious motor racing at the track near Āntíng. Get your hotel room booked early: it’s one of the most glamorous events on the Shànghǎi calendar.

May

Mountainous regions, such as Sìchuān’s Jiǔzhàigōu National Park, are in full bloom. For the first four days of May, China is on vacation (Labour Day). Buddha's Birthday falls on the 8th day of the fourth lunar month, usually in May.

Buddha's Birthday in Xiàhé

A fascinating time to enjoy the Tibetan charms of Gānsù province's Xiàhé, when Buddhist monks make charitable handouts to beggars and the streets throng with pilgrims.

Great Wall Marathon

Experience the true meaning of pain; not for the infirm or unfit. See www.great-wall-marathon.com for more details.

June

Most of China is hot and getting hotter. Once-frozen areas, such as Jílín’s Heaven Lake, are accessible – and nature springs instantly to life. Peak tourist season is cranking up.

Dragon Boat Festival

Head to Zhènyuǎn or the nearest large river and catch all the water-borne drama of dragon boat racers in this celebration of one of China’s most famous poets. The Chinese traditionally eat zòngzi (triangular glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in reed leaves).

Dragon-boat racing, Hong Kong | OSTILL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

July

Typhoons can wreak havoc with travel itineraries down south, lashing the Guǎngdōng and Fújiàn coastlines. Plenty of rain sweeps across China: the ‘plum rains’ give Shànghǎi a big soaking, and the grasslands of Inner Mongolia and Qīnghǎi turn green.

Torch Festival, Dàlǐ

Held on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month (usually July), this festival is held throughout Yúnnán by the Bai and Yi minorities. Making for great photos, flaming torches are paraded at night through streets and fields, and outside shops around town.

August

The temperature gauge of the Yangzi's ‘three ovens’ – Chóngqìng, Wǔhàn and Nánjīng – gets set to blow. Rainstorms hit Běijīng, which is usually 40°C plus, as is Shànghǎi. Head uphill to Lúshān, Mògànshān, Huángshān or Guōliàngcūn.

September

Come to Běijīng and stay put – September is part of the fleetingly lovely tiāngāo qìshuǎng (‘the sky is high and the air is fresh’) autumnal season – an event in itself. It's also a pleasant time to visit the rest of North China.

Mid-Autumn Festival

Also called the moon festival; celebrated by devouring daintily prepared moon cakes – stuffed with bean paste, egg yolk, walnuts and more. With a full moon, it’s a romantic occasion for lovers and a special time for families. On the 15th day of the eighth lunar month.

Confucius’ Birthday

Head to the Confucius Temple in Qūfù for the 28 September birthday celebrations of axiom-quipping philosopher, sage and patriarch Confucius.

October

The first week of October can be hellish if you’re on the road: the National Day weeklong holiday kicks off, so everywhere is swamped. Go mid-month instead, when everywhere is deserted.

Hairy Crabs in Shànghǎi

Now is the time to sample delicious hairy crabs in Shànghǎi; they are at their best between October and December. Male and female crabs are eaten together with shots of lukewarm Shàoxīng rice wine.

November

Most of China is getting pretty cold as tourist numbers drop and holidaymakers begin to flock south for sun and the last pockets of warmth.

China's Best Festivals

Spring Festival, January or February

Monlam Great Prayer Festival, February or March

Rapeseed fields around Yángshuò, mid-March

Dragon Boat Festival, June

Torch Festival, Dàlǐ, July

Plan Your Trip

Get Inspired

Read

Country Driving: A Chinese Road Trip (Peter Hessler; 2011) Hessler's amusing and insightful journey at the wheel around the highways and byways of China.

Tiger Head, Snake Tails (Jonathan Fenby; 2012) Compelling account of contemporary China's myriad challenges and contradictions.

Diary of a Madman and Other Stories (Lu Xun; 1918) Astonishing tales from the father of modern Chinese fiction.

Wolf Totem (Jiang Rong; 2009) An enthralling look at life on the grasslands of Inner Mongolia during the Cultural Revolution and the impact of modern culture on an ancient way of life.

Watch

Still Life (Jia Zhangke; 2005) Bleak and hauntingly beautiful portrayal of a family devastated by the construction of the Three Gorges Dam.

Raise the Red Lantern (Zhang Yimou; 1991) Exquisitely fashioned tragedy from the sumptuous palette of the Fifth Generation.

In the Mood for Love (Wong Kar-Wai; 2000) Seductive, stylishly costumed and slow-burning Hong Kong romance.

The House of Flying Daggers (Zhang Yimou; 2004) Vibrantly coloured romantic martial-arts epic.

Listen

Eagle (Mamer; 2009) Unique take on Kazakh folk music from northwest Xīnjiāng province.

Nothing to My Name (Cui Jian; 1986) Gutsy rock milestone from a different age.

Lang Lang at Carnegie Hall (2004) Astonishing display of virtuoso skill from China's leading pianist.

Masterpieces of Chinese Traditional Music (1995) Exquisite collection of traditional Chinese tunes.

Yuányáng Rice Terraces, Yúnnán | NUTEXZLES / GETTY IMAGES ©

Plan Your Trip

Five-Day Itineraries

Hong Kong to Shànghǎi

Bookend two of the world's most famously modern, yet historic cities with a few days gently meandering the verdant dreamy landscape around Yángshuò.

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