Guatemala's El Petén: Tikal, El Mirador & the Maya Biosphere

Guatemala's El Petén:Tikal, El Mirador & the Maya Biosphere

Shelagh McNally

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This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

Thanks

It's always an adventure visiting Guatemala and there were quite a few people who helped me along the way. I can't name you all, but there are few that cannot be missed.

Elizabeth Maher and Tom Dunn kept my home fires burning while I went off exploring. My daughter, Shannon Tosic-McNally, provided some important translating while my mother, Lynne Colvey (an intrepid traveler even in her 70s) reminded me to keep my sense of humor and relax. Thanks to all of you for helping me keep it together.

I'm grateful to the wonderful people of Guatemala for their continued kindness and generosity in sharing their country. They inspire me.

This book wouldn't have been as well put together without the tireless patience and dedication of my editor Kim André. Always a pleasure working with you, Kim.

Dedication

To Guadalupe. Where would I be without your advice?

About the Author

Shelagh McNally is a Canadian writer who has been visiting Latin America since the mid 1970s. She lived in Mexico from 1997-2002, where she began exploring Guatemala while working as a writer for Mundo Maya magazine and other travel publications. She's visited over 35 Maya ruins and still misses the view from atop the pyramids. Her primary residence these days is Montreal, Canada, where she works as an environmental journalist and travel writer. Her Spanish is still terrible.

Introduction

History

Mundo Maya

Colonial Times

Independence

Laying the Foundation for War

The Scorched Earth

Hope for Peace

Geography & Land

Borders

Regions

Central Highlands

Los Altos

Northern Highlands

El Petén

Izabal

Eastern Plains

Pacific Coast

Flora & Fauna

Plants

Forests

Crops

Wildlife

Insects

Birds

Government & Economy

Politics

Economy

The People

Cultural Groups & Religion

Language

Food

Drinks

Travel Information

When To Go

Climate

Seasonal Concerns

Holidays & Festivals

January

February

March

May

June

July

August

September

November

Money

Currency

Credit Cards & ATMs

Tipping & Taxes

Customs & Immigration

Documents

Getting Here

Overland

By Air

Getting Around

By Air

By Bus

Hitchhiking

By Car

By Taxi

Staying in Touch

Telephones

Cell Phones

E-Mail

Snail Mail

Accommodations

Considerations

Tips for Budget Travelers

Hotel Rates

Personal Safety

Leave it at Home

Feminism - A New Concept

Travel Warnings

Staying Healthy

Hospitals in Guatemala City

Private

Public

Serious Ailments

Medical Travel Insurance

Top 20 Attractions

El Petén

History

Flora & Fauna

Melchor de Mencos

Getting Here & Getting Around

By Bus

Adventures on Foot

Exploring Maya Ruins

Yaxhá-Nakúm-Naranjo Triangle

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Lake Petén Itzá

Flores

History

Getting Here & Getting Around

By Bus

By Car

By Plane

By Boat

Adventures on Foot

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

San Andrés & San José

Getting Here

Spanish Language

SIGHTSEEING

WHERE TO STAY

EL REMATE

HISTORY

GETTING HERE

ADVENTURES ON FOOT

HIKING IN BIOTOPE CERRO CAHUI

ADVENTURES IN NATURE

BIRDWATCHING IN BIOTOPE CERRO CAHUI

ADVENTURES ON WHEELS

BIKING AROUND THE LAKE

ADVENTURES ON HORSEBACK

ADVENTURES ON WATER

CROCODILE TOUR

WHERE TO STAY & EAT

Maya Biosphere

TIKAL NATIONAL PARK

GETTING HERE

HISTORY

EXPLORING THE RUINS

Complex Q & Complex R

The Great Plaza

MUNDO PERDIDO (LOST WORLD COMPLEX)

PRACTICALITIES

WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO EAT

UAXACTÚN RUINS

HISTORY

EXPLORING THE RUINS

TOURS

WHERE TO STAY

BIOTOPE EL ZOTZ

EL MIRADOR NATIONAL PARK

HISTORY

EXPLORING THE RUINS

TOURS

EL MIRADOR TOUR OPERATORS

RÍO AZUL NATIONAL PARK

HISTORY

EXPLORING THE RUINS

TOURS

AUTHORIZED RÍO AZUL TOUR COMPANIES

LAGUNA DEL TIGRE NATIONAL PARK

ADVENTURES IN NATURE

SCARLET MACAW TRAIL

LAGUNA DEL TIGRE TOUR COMPANIES

Southwest of the Maya Biosphere

SIERRA LACANDÓN NATIONAL PARK

SIERRA LACANDÓN TOUR COMPANIES

PIEDRAS NEGRAS RUINS

PIEDRAS NEGRAS TOUR COMPANIES

SIDE TRIP TO MEXICO

GETTING THERE

BONAMPAK RUINS

YAXCHILÁN

PALENQUE

HISTORY

EXPLORING THE RUINS

WHERE TO STAY

Sayaxché & Petexbatún Lagoon

SAYAXCHÉ

GETTING HERE

MAYA RUINS

CEIBAL

ALTAR DE SACRIFICIOS

PUNTA DE CHIMINO FORTIFICATION

AGUATECA

Nacimiento (Birth)

DOS PILAS

Exploring the Ruins

TAMARINDITO

ADVENTURES ON WATER

TOURS

WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO EAT

Southeast of the Maya Biosphere

POPTÚN

IXCÚN & IXTONTÓN MAYA RUINS

ADVENTURES ON FOOT

CAVING

MACHAQUILÁ FOREST RESERVE

ADVENTURES ON HORSEBACK

WHERE TO STAY & EAT

Appendix

Information Sources

Conservation Organizations

Eco-Tourism Agencies

Embassies & Consular Offices of Guatemala

Emergency Phone Numbers

Travel Agencies

Volunteer Opportunities

Website Directory

Recommended Reading

Spanish Glossary

Introduction

Guatemala is the heart of the Maya world and it is mysterious, compelling, magical and tragic all at once. Layers of history envelop this country like a patchwork quilt. There are enigmatic Maya ruins alongside grandiose cathedrals built by the Conquistadors. The diversity of the landscapes is astonishing. In a matter of hours you can go from a windswept mountain peak to steamy mangroves by tropical waters. But the real reason we come to Guatemala is for the Maya people. In this age of anonymous, mass-produced culture, they are unique. The Maya have held onto their language, culture and traditions against an onslaught from the Western world that began with Conquistadors and continues with the United States. Their lasting powers are seen in the enigmatic Maya ruins, centuries old, that are found alongside grandiose cathedrals built by the Conquistadors.

Guatemala offers incredible adventures, not only with the nature but also with the Maya themselves. Coming here changes you - exactly what adventure travel is all about.

Lake Atitlan

History

Guatemala has been settled for thousands of years7. Throughout the centuries there have been many battles fought over land and power. Unfortunately, little of the fighting has helped the people of Guatemala, who are still waiting for a more democratic society. In order to understand Guatemala today, you must know its history. Once you understand how much the people have gone through, you can appreciate their courage and admire their ability to still celebrate life.

Mundo Maya

The Olmecs were the very first to arrive and are considered the forefathers of the Maya. Remnants of their cities and monuments are found scattered throughout the Pacific region and date back to 3000 BC. Little is known about the Olmecs, and most of the information about them comes from Veracruz, Mexico, where many of their sculptures and ruins are found.

The Olmec civilization peaked around 2500 BC. As it began its decline, the Maya emerged, eventually developing into one of the most advanced civilizations in the ancient world. While most of Europe was still squatting in caves, the Maya were building grand temples and pyramids.

Maya calendar date drawn by SG Morley

The Preclassic period began in 1500 BC with the construction of several sites located in Belize and northern Guatemala. By 700 BC, the Maya had advanced enough to develop writing and a hieroglyphic language. They began recording dates and experimenting with mathematics as well. Around 400 BC they made another giant leap forward with their development of the concept of zero. They used this discovery to create their calendar system and develop astronomy using highly evolved mathematics. The Maya calendar system remains the most accurate calendar created by man and was far more precise than the Gregorian calendar used by modern man. Some of their astronomical calculations rival those made at NASA. By 300 BC, the Maya society had created the concept of the king and a hierarchy emerged. The cities of Kaminal Juyú, Abaj Takalik and El Mirador were built up and extensive trade routes grew between them. During this time, the Maya calendar was perfected even further and sophisticated architectural styles were developed.

In AD 200 the Classic period began. This was a golden era that saw many cities built and filled with monumental sculptures and magnificent temples. Smaller cities, such as Tikal, blossomed into major forces throughout the Maya world. Other cities - such as Yaxchilán, Dos Pilas, Ceibal, Piedras Negras, Uaxactún, Yaxhá and Naranjo - were built up during this time with their famous stelae and temples. They became part of the network of kingdoms throughout Guatemala. By AD 500, Tikal controlled most of these cities, along with the trade routes extending up into the northern Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico and as far south as El Salvador. Society became even more structured, with an elite competing for a chance to rule. Not only did the king constantly have to prove his right to the throne, he also had to show how he was directly descended from the gods. Monumental art, using limestone carved with hieroglyphics and portraits of the kings, were their main form of propaganda. The elaborate details of their victories have become our best source of information about the Maya.

From AD 705 and well into the Terminal Classic period (AD 900-1400), the whole area was plagued by war. One theory is that these prolonged wars were brought about by the necessity of the king to prove his worthiness in battle and to conquer neighboring cities. In AD 800, the Toltecs from northern Mexico began invading the Maya world and there were more battles to be fought. By AD 950, long-standing alliances and trade routes had begun to break down and, by AD 976, the Classic period was over; many of the great cities were abandoned.

No one knows what caused the collapse of this great civilization and it remains one of the greatest mysteries surrounding the Maya. But the Maya did not completely disappear. There were pockets of tribes that continued building cities, albeit on a much smaller scale. In AD 1200, the northern Itzá tribe, escaping war in the Yucatán, fled south to create their kingdom of Noh-Petén (now Flores) on the island of Chal Tun Ha (Lake Péten). At the same time the Kingdom of Petexbatún, farther west, was also building up its cities. But these kingdoms eventually fell and, by AD 1470, only the Northern Highland tribes were flourishing. The Cakchiquel Maya developed their capital city of Ixmiche and began conquering the surrounding tribes. They were soon at war with the Quiche and eventually became their slaves. The Quiche developed their capital, K'umarcaaj, and controlled the area until the Conquistadors appeared in 1524.

Colonial Times

Although the Spanish arrived in Central America as early as 1501, they did not visit Guatemala until 1523 when Hernán Cortés sent his lieutenant, Pedro de Alvarado, to conquer Guatemala. Alvarado had a reputation as a brilliant but vicious solider, and it did not take him long to bring the feuding Maya tribes under his control. After landing on the Pacific coast, he gradually headed north to what is now Quetzaltenango, leaving a trail of death and destruction along the way. He named this newly conquered land the Kingdom of Guatemala; it extended as far north as Chiapas, Mexico and south to Panama. Alvarado founded Santiago de Caballeros de Guatemala, the first Conquistador capital, near Ixmiche. This city became his base as he conquered the rest of Central America, Peru and Ecuador. He moved Santiago Antigua to the Panchoy Valley near the foot of Volcán Agua in 1541. Shortly afterwards, he was killed in a battle in Mexico, in an area now known as Guadalajara. Alvarado's wife, Dona Beatriz de la Cueva, took over as the first (and only) female governor of Guatemala. She was in office only a few weeks before being killed in the earthquake and subsequent mudslide that destroyed Antigua Viejo.

Pedro de Alvarado

The army of soldiers and monks that Alvarado and his wife left behind continued to conquer the country. As part of their campaign to convert the Maya to Christianity, the Franciscan and Dominican monks built churches, cathedrals and convents in every region, often using the rubble from the Maya temples destroyed by Alvarado. By 1650, European disease or guns had killed 85% of the Maya. Those who survived were enslaved and forced to work on Conquistador farms. A small portion escaped to the mountains.

When it was determined that no gold or silver would be found, Spain lost interest in Guatemala and, by the late 1700s, it was almost completely ignored. This did not mean that Spain relinquished its hold, though. It insisted that all of Guatemala's tobacco, indigo, cotton, cacao and cochineal dye be sent directly to Spain and did not allow Guatemala to trade with any other country. This economic bias created a wealthy merchant class centered in Antigua; the rest of the country was populated with poor farmers. Antigua grew into one of the most beautiful cities in Central America, while the rest of the country stagnated.

The 1800s were marked by civil unrest. A rigid social hierarchy had formed, with the Spanish at the top, followed by Creoles (pure Spanish born in Guatemala), then Ladinos (Maya and