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NAPLES, POMPEII & THE AMALFI COAST

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Naples, Pompeii & The Amalfi Coast: The Journey Begins Here

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Beyond Procida

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Storybook

A History of Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast in 15 Places

Meet the Neapolitans

Mermaids, Sirens & Hell: Greek Myth in Campania

The Mediterranean Diet

Neapolitan Art: The Presepi

This Book

NAPLES, POMPEII & THE AMALFI COAST

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Faraglioni, Capri | JANOKA82/GETTY IMAGES ©

Campania is the Italy everyone thinks they know – sun-drenched coastal glamourscapes and grandmothers stirring pots of sauce. But what I love is its capacity to amaze: one moment familiar; the next, a total surprise. How mere metres separate the graffiti-covered grit of Naples’ Quartieri Spagnoli from the splendour of Piazza del Plebiscito; how the whitewashed streets of Capri’s centro yield to crags overlooking the sea. I don’t think anyone is ever prepared for the magnificence of Pompeii or the juiciness of artisanal mozzarella di bufala. This is peak Italy, the Italy of people’s dreams. In mine, I’m on Naples’ Mergellina waterfront, with a fresh-fried graffa in one hand and a tarallo in the other, the twin-humped Mt Vesuvius looming in the distance. Or a thermal beach with steaming sands in Ischia that I can only reach by boat. It changes; Campania’s layers are unending. Just like a sfogliatella.

Eva Sandoval

@ieatmypigeon

My favourite experience is tackling Campania’s amazing hikes. I usually focus on foodie adventures when travelling, but I totally thrive on those craggy landscapes and otherworldly views. See? Endless layers!

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places that, for them, define Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast

STEVEN SWINNEN/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Whenever I go back home to Naples, I can’t really settle until I’ve witnessed the sunset, with the sun going down on the sea, the light reverberating in a myriad of colours. Whether from a viewpoint like in Posillipo facing the north side of the gulf and the islands of Procida and Ischia, or directly at sea level on Via Caracciolo with Castel Dell’Ovo and Mt Vesuvius, it evokes a sense of peace and infinity and I feel like I belong again, no matter how long I’ve been away.

Federica Bocco

@ladymultifandom

Federica is a traveller by passion and a writer by natural necessity, although she sometimes wishes it was the other way around.

BEACH TRIPS

When you’re headed to islands and the coast, you’re bound to run into a beach or two. But if you’re envisioning long stretches of yellow sand, you might want to shift your perspective. Apart from the Cilento Coast – which is home to numerous sandy escapes – pretty pebble and dramatic cliff beaches are the norm in volcanic Campania, with rare exceptions. No matter the setting, all of Campania’s beaches are 100% raw Italian beauty.

Cetara | ANDREW MAYOVSKYY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Beach season

Beach season generally runs from May to October. Depending on the weather and the demand, some beach clubs may even open as early as Easter.

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Beach clubs

Most beaches have ’free’ areas and stabilimenti (beach clubs with snack bar/restaurant service) where you rent a lettino (sunbed) or an ombrellone (beach umbrella).

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Beachwear

Cover up when you go to the bathroom or sit down to eat. Water shoes are essential for the pebble and cliff beaches.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Reward yourself for finishing Capri’s Sentiero dei Fortini with a dip at Punta Carena’s 1cliffside beach, Spiaggia di Faro, famous for its sunsets.

Head to Cetara’s Spiaggia di Lannio 2 for a secluded sandy/pebbly beach experience at the foot of the town’s most famous landmark, the Torre di Cetara tower.

Climb down – and then back up! – hundreds of steps to reach Fiordo di Furore 3, a pebbly beach crowned with an arched bridge. Worth it.

Take a quick gozzetto (dinghy) ride from Capri’s Marina Grande to Bagni di Tiberio 4, a pebbly beach with a dramatic backdrop of Roman ruins.

Drive down from Forio or take a boat over from Sant’Angelo to Baia di Sorgeto 5, a pebbly beach in a thermal spring.

WINE BY THE GLASS

Rolling Tuscan hillside is nice, but have you ever sipped vino from a cliff while gazing down at the wine-dark sea? Campanian wines are under-the-radar delights, pressed from local grapes, such as the Tintore red or the Piedirosso varietal grown in the volcanic soils of Ischia and Campi Flegrei.

Vineyards, Gulf of Salerno | BLUEJAYPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Wine quality

DOC and DOP wines adhere to stringent controls, but even restaurant house wine will be good. Bonus if it was made by someone’s nonno (grandpa).

Wine varieties

White wine dominates because of the ocean climate and fish-based diet, but Italy’s rosé renaissance has brought deliciously bold results.

BEST WINE EXPERIENCES

Try the award-winning Fiorduva white wine at the Cantine Marisa Cuomo 1 in Furore.

Head up to the idyllic Vigne di Raito 2 for a relaxed vineyard picnic with incredible views.

Get tipsy on bold reds at Tenuta San Francesco 3, then devour a meal made with produce from the vineyard’s garden.

Enjoy artisanal cheese and salumi with your wines at Tramonti winery-B&B Monte di Grazia 4.

Take a detour to Cantina del Vesuvio 5 to sample the area’s famous Lacryma Christi wine.

CONCERTS & FESTIVALS

Traditional Neapolitan music – with its shimmying tambourines, trilling mandolins and plaintive tenors – can be heard echoing throughout Campania at folk festivals and beach stabilimenti. But campani love all kinds of music, so you’ll find festivals and concerts galore. But what genre?

Music festivals

Music festivals run year-round and showcase a wide range of genres. Jazz is popular, but branch out to experience hip-hop and rap performances in Naples.

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Traditional beats

You’ll hear traditional Neapolitan music at folk festivals all over Campania, but the best performances are spontaneous, erupting in the streets and piazzas.

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Be in the know

It’s fun to stumble into a music festival, but you’ll need tickets to attend Campania’s best music events. Check calendars while booking your trip.

BEST FESTIVAL EXPERIENCES

Catch world-class jazz acts and theatrical events at Naples’ summertime Pomigliano Jazz Festival 1held in the city’s best venues and even the crater of Mt Vesuvius.

Follow the travelling summertime Pozzuoli Jazz Festival 2 to enjoy the music against the most glorious backdrops of the Campi Flegrei.

See what’s new in music at Newroz 3, a summertime festival showcasing multiple modern genres.

Sob over an opera at the 18th-century Teatro San Carlo 4 opera house, right off Naples’ Piazza del Plebiscito.

Head to Ravello, where you can hear the world-class, Wagner-inspired performances at the summertime Ravello Festival. 5

ARTISINAL TASTES

This is why you really came to Campania: to create food memories for a lifetime. Much of the ’Italian’ cuisine that’s popular abroad has roots here, so you will see global hits such as ravioli and pizza – but there’s a wealth of other uber-local food experiences. From clifftop wine tastings to panini bulging with mozzarella di bufala bought straight from the dairy. The region’s food isn’t always the lightest, but you’re on holiday – treat yourself!

La Pignasecca | MASSIMO BORCHI/ATLANTIDE PHOTOTR/GETTY IMAGES ©

DOP on your radar

Locally produced regional ingredients are prized, so keep an eye out for artisanal delicacies such as colatura di alici from Cetara and provolone del Monaco from Agerola.

GABRIELE SCOTTO DI FASANO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Be bold!

Don’t shy away from super-popular traditional proteins, such as sardines, island rabbit, octopus and sea urchin. Push your limits – when in Campania, right?

SICIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Street food

Some of Campania’s best foods are held in your hand. Grab some delicious street treats when you’re short on time – or even when you’re not.

BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES

Binge on street food at La Pignasecca 1 street market, stopping at Pescheria Azzurra or a fresh-fried cuopp’ of calamari and sardines.

Learn to make mozzarella fior di latte with master cheese-maker Biagio Staiano 2 at historic Caseificio Staiano in Ravello.

Escape the swarms of tourists in Positano and head up to Montepertuso for lunch at Il Ritrovo 3, a mountaintop osteria (casual tavern) over-looking the coast.

Indulge your sweet tooth with a pillowy-soft graffa (fried dough) at Chalet Ciro 1952 4 on Naples’ Mergellina as you stroll beside the sea.

Upgrade from basic pizza al portafoglio with a gourmet pie at Naples’ Michelin-starred 50 Kalò 5; each pizza is matched with the perfect artisanal olive oil.

INTO THE WILD

It’s easy to get distracted by pizza and Roman ruins, but Campania is wild, with incredible hiking trails to prove it. Head out as early as possible to savour the unique shrubby beauty of the Mediterranean ecosystem, gazing down at the sea and inhaling the scent of wild rosemary, sea salt and lemons.

Baia di Ieranto | SERGEY NEMIROVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Responsible hiking

Look for the red-and-white CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) signs or paint marks to stay on the right path. Avoid protected areas and respect local wildlife.

Be prepared

Sandals and sundresses won’t cut it for these hikes; bring trail shoes and plenty of water to tackle these challenging but supremely rewarding sentieri.

BEST HIKING EXPERIENCES

Commune with the gods when you hike out of Agerola to the Sentiero degli Dei 1.

Hike to Massa Lubrense’s Baia di Ieranto 2 to reach a secluded pebble beach surrounded by cliffs.

Cut through tiny villages to see waterfalls along the leafy Sentiero delle Ferriere 3 between Scala and Amalfi.

Count the 19th-century watchtowers along Capri’s cliffside Sentiero dei Fortini 4 from dizzying yet beautiful heights.

Take the Enotri path from Sacco to Grotta di Jacopo 5; a secret natural cavity.

ISLAND ESCAPES

The islands in the Gulf of Naples are a favourite escape, even for locals. Located on the westernmost edge of the Campi Flegrei, these volcanic islands are home to black beaches, thermal waters and Roman ruins. Each has its own distinct personality: sleepy Procida, adventurous Ischia and glamorous Capri – perfect for all of your moods.

How to get there

Regular ferries to the islands run from Naples, Positano, Amalfi and Sorrento, but in the low season ferry services from Positano and Amalfi decline sharply.

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High season

Procida and Ischia are manageable even in the hot summer months, but Capri explodes with tourists. Consider visiting in September or October.

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Getting around

Ischia’s public-transport system is serviceable, but a scooter is ideal for getting around hilly Capri – if you already know how to drive one.

BEST ISLAND EXPERIENCES

Watch the rich, beautiful people and maybe spot a celebrity or two in Piazza Umberto I 1, the heart of Capri’s whitewashed historic centre.

Heal thyself with the famous curative thermal waters at the mountaintop Fonte delle Ninfe di Nitrodi 2, just as the ancient Greeks did.

Climb Monte Epomeo 3, Ischia’s highest mountain. Go at sunset or sunrise for the most magical views of the island and its surrounding waters.

Hike up to a promontory or walk down to Marina Corricella 4 to experience Procida’s fishermen’s bay with its famous rainbow-coloured houses.

Witness the miracle of magical blue underwater phosphorescence when you take a boat ride to Capri’s Grotta Azzurra 5.

MAJOR ART HISTORY

Naples has attracted a legion of artistic masters in its 27 centuries, and the rest of Campania is no slouch in the fine-arts department. Feed your soul with museums housing some of the most important works in history, such as moody Caravaggios and stunning Roman mosaics. You’ll find the stamps of baroque painters Francesco Solimena and Luca Giordano all over Naples, and medieval triptychs that’ll make you wish you’d listened in art class.

La Battaglia di Alesandro contro Dario, Museo Archeologico Nazionale | JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET/LONELY PLANET ©

Lunch break

Museums often close for lunch and reopen after 4pm or 5pm, so be sure to check schedules to avoid being disappointed.

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Don’t speed through

The number of pieces of priceless art in Campania is staggering: every museum corner yields another surprise. Give yourself enough time to enjoy it all.

BJANKA KADIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Flash photography

Many museums and exhibits discourage flash photography, especially for frescoes – something to keep in mind when you’re tempted to capture the moment.

BEST ART EXPERIENCES

Visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale 1 in Naples to see the Farnese Bull as well as frescoes and mosaics taken from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Head up Capodimonte Hill in Naples and enjoy the Museo di Capodimonte 2, with its excellent collection of 17th- and 18th-century art.

See jewelled ecclesiastical treasures of inestimable value at the Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro 3, nestled in the Duomo di Napoli.

Hunt for the Cup of Nestor in Ischia’s Museo Archeologico di Pithecusae 4, found at the idyllic Villa Arbusto in Lacco Ameno.

Enjoy the thoughtfully curated fine- and modern-art exhibits at Parco di Villa Fiorentino 5 in Sorrento.

UNDERWATER KINGDOMS

Don’t limit yourself to exploring the surface of Campania: this seaside and island region is teeming with magical underwater experiences. From grotte (caves) hiding ceramic nativity sets beneath their green phosphorescent waters to sunken Roman ruins, there’s as much below the surface to keep you busy as there is above it.

Parco Sommerso di Baia | ANTONIO BUSIELLO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Ensure protection

Many of the most beautiful marine areas in Campania are protected; make sure you’re in regola by only using authorised guides and dive centres.

Be respectful

Even in areas where it’s legal to swim freely, be mindful of local wildlife. Don’t take anything from the natural habitat or disrupt sea creatures.

BEST UNDERWATER EXPERIENCES

Dive into the world of Parco Sommerso di Baia 1 in Lucrino to see sunken Roman mosaics.

Visit Parco Sommerso di Gaiola 2 in Naples and learn about marine conservation while taking snorkelling and diving tours.

Take the glass-bottom-boat tour in Cartaromana Bay to see the ruins of the sunken Roman city Aenaria 3.

Duck as you enter the Grotta Azzurra 4 in Capri to see the magical blue phosphorescence glimmer beneath the surface.

Marvel at the underwater nativity set at the bottom of the Grotta dello Smeraldo 5.

PALACES & MONASTERIES

The deeply Catholic region of Campania is home to glorious places of worship that house some of the most important artworks in history. Drink in the views from Naples’ 13th-century Castel dell’Ovo and marvel at the Garden of Eden–themed tiled floor in Anacapri’s Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo.

Guides

If you don’t want to take a tour, many sites offer great downloadable audio guides that let you educate yourself at your own pace.

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Be respectful

When entering places of worship, keep shoulders and torsos covered and refrain from talking loudly or using your phone. Taking photographs is often forbidden.

MASSIMO BORCHI/ATLANTIDE PHOTOTR/GETTY IMAGES ©

Closing time

Many churches and palaces close on certain days of the week – and the entire month of August. Be sure to check before you head over.

BEST GRAND-BUILDING EXPERIENCES

Ramble north to Caserta and gawp at the former royal residence Reggia di Caserta 1. Luigi Vanvitelli’s baroque swan song.

See the miracle of the Cristo Velato at Naples’ Cappella Sansevero, 2 showcasing Giuseppe Sanmartino’s disturbingly lifelike statue of a veiled, slain Christ.

Jog up the massive 62-step staircase leading to the Duomo in Amalfi 3 to see the crypt of Sant’Andrea, Amalfi’s patron saint.

Cross a stone bridge to visit Ischia’s Castello Aragonese 4, a medieval castle with amazing views of the island and its surrounding waters.

Lose yourself in the Certosa di San Lorenzo di Padula 5, a 350-room monastery and religious complex that’s home to the largest cloister in the world.

ROMANS & GREEKS

You expect to find awesome Roman ruins in Italy, but before the Romans, there were the Greeks. Campania is the site of the ancient Greeks’ first settlements in what is now Italy, and Greek and Roman architecture is dotted all over the region. Prepare to be wowed by the Anfiteatro Flaviano in Pozzuoli, the third-largest Roman amphitheatre yet discovered, or the Porta Rosa in Velia. Pace yourself: there’s lots of ancient ground to cover.

Anfiteatro Flavio, Pozzuoli | MAREMAGNUM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Footwear

Footwear evolved for a reason: cobblestones are hard. Wear sturdy flat shoes when you visit ruins and don’t rush around as the stones are often slippery.

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Take it slow

You’ll want to savour every fresco and column, so make sure to leave enough time in your itinerary to give them the attention they deserve.

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Child friendly

Time travel is fun, but ancient Rome was known for its erotica, so prepare yourself for questions. The MyPompeii app suggests erotica-free itineraries.

BEST CLASSICAL EXPERIENCES

Brave the uphill ’walk’ to Villa Jovis 1 on Capri, an ancient Roman temple built with sweeping views of the island and the Gulf of Naples.

Admire the sophisticated Roman engineering at the