Uptown Down South

Foreword

It was 1989, and the city of Charleston was recovering from the aftermath of the devastation of Hurricane Hugo when my late father, Tom Parsell, purchased an old historic building in the French Quarter District. In fact, it was the site of the city’s original Customs House in 1739. Despite the Quarter having become a rundown part of town in the preceding years, he had a vision to reinvigorate the area with a traditional Lowcountry fine dining restaurant. Magnolias opened soon after that, in 1990, igniting a culinary renaissance and paving the way for restaurants in Charleston and across the South with its upscale southern cuisine. Likewise, Charleston itself has become a premier culinary destination in the South.

As I reflect on the past 25 years at Magnolias, I think of the history that has taken place in the restaurant—the countless meals we have provided for guests, the training given to young chefs chasing their dream, and the memorable experiences that we have created for those that have visited us. I have personally enjoyed many of those experiences over that time, including the marriage proposal to my wife, Louisa, as well as my family’s annual Christmas Eve dinner. This cookbook celebrates those great meals, our loyal patrons and the unprecedented talent that has come through the kitchen—all of which have played a vital role in Magnolias’ success.

How does a restaurant continue to be successful and relevant after two and a half decades? By providing the highest level of food and service day in, day out. We have been very fortunate to have had an incredible management team in place throughout the years to maintain that consistency. Since 1991, Executive Chef Don Drake has been the driving force behind Magnolias’ ability to perpetuate the impeccable bar that has been set. His passion for food and hospitality continues to keep Magnolias at the top of its game, and I salute his dedication.

Chef Drake and I thought the 25th anniversary was the perfect time to refresh the restaurant space itself with a significant renovation to offer an updated environment with a new look. The dining room presents patrons with an enhanced experience complemented by the original southern charm for which Magnolias is best known. Similarly, we thought it was time for an updated cookbook. Inspired by Magnolias’ original menu, this celebratory book features signature dishes from Chef Drake, as well as recipes from successful chefs that have spent time in Magnolias’ kitchen. Our hope is that you will find recipes that will create as many special memories in your own kitchen as they have in ours.

—TJ Parsell, President/Owner

Hospitality Management Group, Inc.

Magnolias/Blossom/Cypress/Artisan Meat Share

Introduction

When it comes to cooking, my philosophy is straightforward: cooking shouldn’t have a strict set of rules, and it should always be fun. I encourage you to play around and experiment with the recipes and ingredients, have fun with them. But I do have a few rules that will make a difference in every recipe you cook, from simple to complex.

Always use fresh produce and the freshest ingredients possible. It is a waste of your time, energy and money to use mediocre ingredients because the food you produce is only as good as what you started with, no matter how good the recipe.

Because acidic ingredients, such as vinegars or tomatoes, react with aluminum to create a metallic taste or discolored sauces, use cast iron pots and nonreactive mixing bowls and utensils for most of these recipes. (Nonreactive simply means that the bowl, pot or container contains no aluminum.)

Try to keep most of your pantry items in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight and away from heat.

If you’re just learning how to cook, start out with the easier recipes and work your way up as you gain confidence in your skills. Cooking is like most other arts: the more you practice, the better your craft becomes.

I’ve grown accustomed to making big batches of food at Magnolias, so it’s hard to make small batches when I’m at home. But if you’re cooking just for two, go ahead and cut the recipe in half—that way you’re not wasting anything. Finally, make sure you have enough time to enjoy the fruits of all the effort you put into making the meal. Slow down, pour a big glass of iced tea or open a bottle of wine, and savor the meal with family and friends.

Many of the basic ingredients in these recipes are found in the kitchens of most home cooks across the nation or are readily available at local grocers. Other products are regional in availability, but with the rise in popularity of the Southern Food movement, most can be found wherever you live.

Put on your apron. It’s time to start cooking.

From the Southern Pantry

Stock and Sauce Basics

Nothing goes to waste in Magnolias’ kitchen. I’m a little bit of a culinary packrat because I try to save everything: chicken bones, duck bones, shells from peeled shrimp, lobster shells, ham bones, vegetable scraps. They’re all useful for making stocks, sauces and soups. If you have room in the freezer, wrap them up and freeze them for later. Things that seem like scraps will later add depth and flavor to all kinds of stocks.

When it comes to cooking, we frequently rely on descriptions borrowed from other languages and cultures. Fond is one such word, borrowed from French; it refers to the tasty little bits left at the bottom of a pan after something has been cooked. Using fonds is essential to creating flavorful stocks and sauces.

Looking at the big family tree of sauces and stocks, there are two grandparents. One is a fond blanc (white), the other, fond brun (brown). The bones in fond brun are roasted, whereas the bones in a fond blanc are not. A fond brun would be used for veal demi-glace or beef stock, and a fond blanc would be used for vegetable stock or shellfish and fish stocks. Either can be used for poultry stock.

Ratios for fonds and stocks are:

50% bones

10% mirepoix (a combination of onions, carrots and celery, chopped to about the size of a nickel)

40% enough water to cover

When making brown fonds or stocks, you’ll sauté the mirepoix with the bones. To caramelize, add a little tomato paste, then add bay leaf, thyme and black peppercorns. Deglaze the pot with wine, using a red wine for darker sauces (fond brun) and a white wine for lighter sauces, scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon. Then add water to cover, letting it cook 2 hours for chicken, 45 minutes for shellfish or seafood, and about 3 hours for veal.

For a fond blanc or a white stock rinse your bones before cooking and sauté your vegetables just until softened but not browned. Then add herbs and peppercorns. Add wine if called for and enough cold water to cover.

Let’s say the grandparents, fond blanc and fond brun, have five children and they are all women. They are known as mother sauces, or leading sauces, in the culinary world and are created by combining a liquid and a thickening agent.

Milk + White Roux = Béchamel Sauce

White Stock + White or Blond Roux = Velouté

Brown Stock + Brown Roux = Espagnole

Tomato + Stock = Tomato Sauce

Butter + Eggs = Hollandaise

Think of all other sauces as distant cousins in the family tree. They are called small sauces and are all made from the mother sauces.

Roux is very basic but adds a great amount of flavor. Remember the ratio that works best is 1:1, meaning one part oil to one part flour. In a pan the size that suits your needs, heat the oil until it’s very hot, then stir in an equal amount of flour. Use a large wooden spoon and try to stay away from rubber spoons when making roux, because the high temperature can cause them to melt. Reduce the heat and continue stirring until the roux reaches the color you are looking for—light roux for light sauces and darker colored for darker sauces. (The longer it cooks, the darker it becomes.) For instance, when I make gumbos I cook my roux until it turns medium brown. Then I add just the onions so they will caramelize. I don’t add other vegetables until later on. They release too much water and deter browning, making it hard to get the dark chocolate color I need for a good gumbo base.

Chicken Stock

Makes 1-1/2 quarts

1/4 cup canola oil

1 medium to large onion, roughly chopped

1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped

1 leek, white part only, roughly chopped

1 rib celery, roughly chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1 pound roasted chicken bones or 1-1/2 pounds rinsed chicken backs

1 dried bay leaf

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

3 quarts water

Heat the canola oil in a large pot over moderate heat. Cook the onion, carrot, leek, celery and garlic, stirring often, until they are soft but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add the chicken bones and carcass, bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns and water. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce to low and simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Continue cooking for about 2 hours, until the stock has reduced by half.

Strain the stock through a china cap or fine-mesh strainer. Allow the stock to chill in an ice bath. When the stock has cooled, skim the fat. It freezes well, so you can separate the stock and freeze it in small batches for future use.

Variations: To make fish stock, crab stock, or country ham or ham hock stock, substitute a seafood or ham protein of your choice for the chicken bones.

Veal Stock

Makes 1-1/2 quarts

1 pound veal bones

1/4 cup canola oil, divided

2 medium onions, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 rib celery, chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1 leek, white part only, chopped

3 tablespoons tomato paste

750 ml red wine

1 dried bay leaf

3 sprigs fresh thyme

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Place veal bones in a roasting pan with sides, using half the oil to coat the bones. Roast the bones until well browned, about 45 minutes. Heat the remaining oil in a pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and caramelize until they reach a dark brown color, about 10 minutes. Add carrot, celery, garlic, leek and tomato paste and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring often.

Add the veal bones to the pot, along with the wine, bay leaf, thyme and peppercorns. Add enough water to the pot to cover the bones, about 3 quarts. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. Skim off and discard the foam and any excessive amounts of fat that appears on top. Cook for about 2 hours, until the stock has reduced by half.

Strain stock through a fine sieve into a container with a lid, making sure to press all the juices from the vegetables. Allow to cool. Once the stock has chilled, the fat will solidify on top and you can easily scrape it off and discard. Divide into small batches and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 3 months.

Shellfish Stock

Makes 6 cups

1/4 cup canola oil

1 medium to large onion, roughly chopped

1 rib celery, roughly chopped

1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped

1 leek, white part only, roughly chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

3 sprigs fresh tarragon

6 fresh basil leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 dried bay leaf

Shells from 3 large lobsters, crushed or 1 pound shrimp shells, crushed

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 cup brandy

8 cups water or reserved liquid from cooking the lobster

Heat the canola oil in a large pot over moderate heat. Cook the onion, celery, carrot, leek and garlic, stirring often, until soft but not brown, about 4 minutes. Add tarragon, basil, black peppercorns, bay leaf, and crushed lobster or shrimp shells. Add tomato paste and stir to coat the shells. Continue to cook until the tomato paste has darkened a little, then deglaze the pan with brandy and reduce the liquid by half, about 5 minutes. Add your water or liquid from cooking the lobsters. Bring to a simmer; remove and discard any impurities that might have risen to the top. Simmer for 35 minutes. Chill well, then place in small containers and freeze for up to 3 months or refrigerate for up to 1 week.

Trinity

Makes 3 cups

Trinity consists of onions, celery and bell peppers. In southern Creole cuisine, this flavorful combination is referred to as the Holy Trinity, and rightly so. It is the foundation of a multitude of dishes, from gumbo to étouffée.

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cups diced yellow onion

2 cups chopped celery

1 cup diced red bell pepper

In a heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat, add the olive oil and sauté all ingredients until soft and just beginning to caramelize, about 15 minutes.

If making trinity for chicken or roasted Creole dishes, heat the oil and sauté the onions until caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add the celery and bell peppers and sauté for another 5 minutes, adding about 1/8 cup water. Turn the heat to low and cook for another 20 minutes, stirring often. The mixture will be a golden brown.

Grilled Sweet Corn Relish

Makes 3 cups

8 ears corn on the cob, shucked

7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup finely diced red onion

1/4 cup finely diced red bell pepper

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onion

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

2 teaspoons seeded and minced jalapeño

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Start the grill. When the fire is hot, rub each corn on the cob with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and place the corn on the hot grill. Grill until slightly charred. Allow to cool. Using a sharp knife cut the kernels off the cob, place them in a medium-sized bowl and mix with the remaining ingredients. Store in airtight container and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

Canning, Pickling and Putting Up

You can pretty much can and pickle almost any kind of food. At Magnolias we mostly preserve vegetables and fruits, extending the spring and summer seasons to enjoy later. I’m a big fan of pickled fruits and vegetables, and preserving has been popular in southern cuisine since the invention of glass. Most of the containers we use are common Mason jars. They’ve been around for many years. A lot of hardware stores carry them, and they cost a lot less than the ones you’ll find at fashionable culinary stores. If you have enough room to store the jars, buy them by the dozen, and they will be cheaper. Besides, there aren’t any recipes I know of that only yield one jar of