Bungee Bazooka

http://www.instructables.
com/id/Bungee-Bazooka/
Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop
Bungee Bazooka
by seamster on October 10, 2011
Table of Contents
Bungee Bazooka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: Bungee Bazooka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 1: Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Step 2: Tools and materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Step 3: Main tube layout & access holes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Step 4: Trigger handle build-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Step 5: Ammo ring holding pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 6: Ammo ring release shuttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Step 7: Trigger mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Step 8: Front handles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Step 9: Pulley system front end assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 10: Pulley system front end mounting to tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Step 11: Pulley system back end . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Step 12: Bungee tubing bands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Step 13: Bungee kickback deflecting loops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Step 14: Bungee kickback deflecting side tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Step 15: Wood finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Step 16: Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Step 17: Sling for alternate ammo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bungee-Bazooka/
Author:seamster
I like to make fun, interesting things.
Intro: Bungee Bazooka
This is essentially a shoulder-mounted sling shot that shoots large homemade Nerf-type darts.
It can also be used to launch other things like tennis balls, golf balls, tomatoes, apples, and even raw eggs.
This is something I had been working on in the back of my mind for over a year, trying to figure out all the details. For some reason the challenge of making a
homemade, self-contained, bungee-powered, multi-ammo launcher was incredibly intriguing to me. I had never seen anything like it, and thought it would make a great
experimental project.
The finished product is by no means high-powered like a compressed air- or combustion-fueled cannon, but it still packs a decent punch for what it is, and has turned out
to be extremely fun to play with.
Please note that most of the information and details for this project are contained in the photos in the form of notes (the little yellow boxes). If you plan to make one of
these, be sure to study all the photos and their notes carefully.
Thanks for looking!
Image Notes
1. Loaded and ready to fire.
2. Resistance tubing bands are attached to eye bolts on this butt plate with quick
links. Key rings are attached to both ends of each section of the stretchy tubing.
3. The tubing bands are stretched through a pulley on either side of the front end
of the bazooka, attached to hooks protruding from either side of the dart, and the
dart is pulled back down inside the tube and attached to a pin at the back end of
the bazooka.
Image Notes
1. Rear sight.
Image Notes
1. Thankfully, the bazooka didn't misfire right as I was preparing to take this
2. Front sight. The sights are there mostly for looks.
3. These are U bolts that act as deflectors to keep the released tubing bands
from whipping wildly out to the sides.
4. These PVC tubes keep the tubing bands from whipping the shooter in the
face.
photo!
Image Notes
1. Front handles were added to both sides to allow lefties and righties to shoot
comfortably, and to act as a tripod.
Image Notes
1. Rear handle section, which houses the trigger mechanism.
Image Notes
1. Trigger mechanism is housed in this piece.
Image Notes
1. The ammo release mechanism. The back piece of wood with the two angled
rods coming out of it slides backward when the trigger is pulled, and lifts the key
ring off of a holding pin, this firing the dart.
Image Notes
1. This piece slides back when the trigger is fired...
2. ...pushing the key ring up and off of its holding pin...
3. ...and off flies the ammo.
Image Notes
1. There is a single piece of wire bent across and firmly attached to the bottom of
the tennis ball, with small hooks bent on either side that protrude out just enough
to slip on the key rings from the tubing bands. The black webbing you see is sewn
to the tennis ball wire, and fed through the foam tube. All the energy from the
tubing bands is directly transferred down the length of webbing back to the key
ring which is held by a holding pin.
Image Notes
1. For firing other items, I made a sling out of webbing and a piece of cotton
canvas, with two hand-bent wire hooks that connect this to the tubing band key
rings.
Image Notes
1. These hooks needed to be bent down a little tighter, but still loose enough to
slip off when the object is fired. The sling sometimes flips out a few feet in front of
the bazooka when fired, and other times stays attached. The object leaves the
sling once it reaches the end of the bazooka either way.
Step 1:Video
Here's a video showing the Bungee Bazooka in action.
Step 2:Tools and materials

To make your own Bungee Bazooka you will need a number basic woodworking tools along with all the various items listed below. Keep in mind that there are frequently
many ways to accomplish the same task, so be sure to adapt as needed to the tools and materials you have available to you.
If you have access to a table saw, band saw, and drill press, it will simplify the making of some of the key wooden parts for this project. At minimum, you can get by with a
circular saw, jigsaw, hand-held drill, a Dremel-type tool, and a few other basic hand tools. Specific tools are mentioned in the particular steps where they're needed.
Here is a finalized list of what I used to complete my Bungee Bazooka (some of which are shown in the photos above):
5 feet of 4" PVC sewer pipe (I've seen both green and white varieties. The wall on mine is 3/16" thick.)
Two pulleys - for rope sizes up to 3/8". These must be the kind with a removable center pin, so you can take them apart and only use the actual pulley wheel.
(Mine are made for ceiling/wall applications, and were purchased at an Ace Hardware store. The center hole in pulley wheel was 5/16".)
Two 5/16", 3" long bolts with a section of smooth shaft on which the pulley wheels will spin.
Handful of washers to match pulley wheel bolts. (I ended up using 14.)
Two locking nuts to match pulley wheel bolts.
Handful of key rings. Heavier-duty variety, four 1" size for bungee bands, and one 1 1/4" size for each dart. I got extras to replace ones that may break, and for
making the sling for shooting non-dart projectiles (see steps 16 & 17). I got my keyrings at an office supply store.
Two 3/16" quick links. Mine said "615 lbs. max load."
Two 1/4" eyebolts, 2 1/2" long, with two washers and two locking nuts to match.
One 3/16", 48" long metal rod (ended up only using about half of it.)
Nine 1/4" carriage bolts, 2" long with matching washers and locking nuts. (Most were trimmed off with a Dremel once they were bolted in place. I bought them all
long on purpose just to ensure they would all fit in their various applications.)
About twenty 1-inch "pancake head" screws. I bought these at Ace Hardware. The screw head is thin enough that they can be used in the inside of the PVC pipe
without them sticking up and being in the way. See the photo of them above.
Two additional washers, one with a 3/16" inside diameter, and one with a 1/4" inside diameter
Two U bolts designed for 1" pipe
8 feet of therapy resistance tubing. I had some blue Thera-Band that I used. You can get it from most medical supply stores, like this one online. I actually got
mine from welding supply store.
A small amount of hardwood (I used birch), and a small amount of plywood (I used some 1/2" and some 3/4")
A small amount of craft foam
Various adhesives: wood glue, original gorilla glue, epoxy, hot glue
Here's a list of what I needed to make some darts and the sling for shooting other items:
Foam tubes. I got mine at a thrift store, and I'm not sure what their original purpose was. The outside diameter is 1 3/4", and the inside diameter is 5/8". Smaller
pool noodles would work great, as would foam insulation for pipes.
Small amounts of webbing. I used some 1" and some 3/4". You can get this out outdoor stores, craft stores, and most hardware stores.
Craft foam for fins
Stiff wire, like hanger wire
Tennis balls
Some heavy fabric (for the sling)
Image Notes
1. Metal-to-metal pancake head screws. They work well in this project because
of the low profile of the screw head.
Image Notes
1. This specific type of pulley is crucial to this project. They have to be a kind that
you can take apart and just use the actual wheel.
Image Notes
1. You will need a lot of key rings. Try to find some that appear to be somewhat
heavy-duty.
Step 3:Main tube layout & access holes
Guidelines were laid out on the PVC tube for where I was going to cut the access holes in the top, and where I was going to attach the handles and other components to
create the bazooka.
Begin by getting the circumference of the tube by wrapping a sheet of paper around it and marking where the paper overlaps.
Measure from the overlapped edge to the mark you made. This is the circumference. On the paper, lay out and make marks as needed for the location of where you will
want guidelines the tube, re-wrap the paper onto the tube, and transfer the marks onto the tube.
I placed four guidelines equally spaced on the tube, dividing it into quarters lengthwise with a top and bottom line, and a left and right line. I then added guidelines for the
placement of the front handles, as well as the side cuts of the access holes.
A hole saw was used to cut out the corners of the access holes, and a jigsaw was used to make the straight cuts. These opening were sanded gently to take away the
sharp edges.
Take a look at photo 3 in its original size (click on the box in the upper left corner) to see where all my marks were made to help layout my tube. If the circumference of
your tube is close to 336mm as mine was, you can copy my measurements directly from that photo. If not, you will have to do some easy math to divide the
circumference of your tube into equally spaced quarters, place marks on your paper, and create guidelines on your tube accordingly.
Image Notes
1. Mark here six inches from the front.
2. Front of bazooka tube.
3. Mark here four inches from the back.
4. This section is four inches wide.
5. Each of these openings is 14" long.
6. This section is four inches wide.
Image Notes
1. Getting a distance to measure to figure out the tube's outer circumference.
Image Notes
1. Circumference was 336mm. This means a middle mark would be at 168mm...
and so on. Click on that little "i" to see this in it's original size so you can make
out all the little measurements I wrote on this sheet.
Image Notes
1. The paper taped in place back on the tube, and all the marks transferred to
the tube.
Image Notes
1. Use a straight edge of some kind to draw guidelines extending the marks
along the full length of the tube.
Image Notes
1. A sheet of paper is wrapped tightly around the tube to act as a guide to make
the cross-ways marks.
Image Notes
1. This is a 1 3/8" hole saw. It's not crucial to do it this way, but it makes the
access holes look clean and nice.
Image Notes
1. Use a new, fine-toothed blade, work slowly, and wear eye protection. Always
wear protection to avoid getting unwanted things... in your eyes.
Step 4:Trigger handle build-up
The trigger handle was made by laminating three layers of 1/2" plywood. The center layer is laid out and cut to allow room for the trigger and accompanying parts to be
installed inside of it later on.
The shape of this trigger handle/trigger mechanism housing went through various modifications throughout the project, as you may notice in some of the photos. The
main thing that is needed is a spot for the trigger with room for it to slide back about 3/4", and a channel along the top for the metal rod to be housed in the that connects
the actual trigger to the rear mechanism (see step 7 for lots of photos of this).
Be sure to examine all the photos and read the photo notes for dimensions and additional information.
Image Notes
1. This is made from three layers of 1/2' plywood glued and clamped together.
2. I sanded down any imperfections between the three layers after the glue-up
and routed the edges with a round-ever bit to make it more comfortable.
Image Notes
1. The trigger connects to a rod that runs down this channel and connects to
the rear release mechanism.
Image Notes
1. Walther P99 airsoft gun was the model for the handle shapes.
2. About 2 1/2" from front end to handle.
3. This piece is one inch wide, and entire length of the piece is 23 1/2".
Image Notes Image Notes
1. The first piece was cut out with a jigsaw, and then flipped over and traced as a
pattern to make the other side.
1. This middle section was cut 1/2" thinner along the top, which creates the
channel for the trigger rod.
Image Notes
1. Always apply a thin layer of glue to both pieces to be joined together. I glued
one side to the middle section, and when that was dry, added the other side
piece.
Image Notes
1. Clamped to the table itself to ensure that the piece dries up straight and not
warped.
Step 5:Ammo ring holding pin
This piece was made from solid birch, with a short section of metal rod placed through the center of it. The metal rod is just a hair over the length of the diameter of the
inside of the tube, and is place through a hole drilled through the block all the way flush to the bottom of the block of wood. It should protrude 1/2" over the top of this
block of wood. The backside of this block should be sloped enough to accommodate the two sloped pins coming out of the shuttle piece shown in the next step.
The block was bolted in place with carriage bolts with the back edge exactly 3 1/2" from the back end of the PVC pipe.
All components made from hardwood are made from 1" stock, except for the actual trigger piece (more info on that in step 7).
Image Notes
1. For the carriage bolts on this piece, push them up through the PVC from the
outside. The rounded heads should be on this outside of the tube for this piece.
Image Notes
1. Use a hole punch to mark where you want to drill your holes. This helps center
the bit and keep it from wandering.
Image Notes
1. Note that the pin is angled slightly back. This was intentional, and helps
keep the key ring from slipping off accidentally and misfiring the bazooka.
Image Notes
1. All of the holes through which carriage bolts were attached were first drilled
out, and then carved square with an exacto blade. A dremel could also be used
for this task if you had a small carving bit. When attaching the carriage bolts, be
careful not to over tighten them, as this will strip out the square cut in the
relatively soft PVC.
Step 6:Ammo ring release shuttle
This piece is made from solid birch. It slides backward when the trigger is pulled, and the two little rods lift the keyring off of the holding pin and releases the object to be
fired. It is 2" inches long, 1 1/2" tall, and 1" wide.
There is slot cut into bottom of the PVC that is 2 1/2" long and a hair over 1/4" wide that begins immediately behind the block attached in the previous step, and extends
toward the back of the pipe.
This ring release shuttle piece is bolted in place with a carriage bolt in the back and a smaller guide screw in the front (because there wasn't room for another bolt in the
front because of the two metal rods being in the way). The bolts are kept just loose enough so that the shuttle can slide freely in a long cut made in the bottom of the PVC
when the trigger is pulled.
Image Notes
1. The angle on these rods is crucial. Use whatever method works for you to get
them to fit and work correctly along with the holding pin created in the last step.
Once they are glued securely in place, they can be bent and tweaked a little at
a time. This part will require a lot of trial and error and minor adjustments to get
it right.
2. These rods are imbedded into the wood about one inch or so, right to where
the carriage bolt comes up through the back. Use some gorilla glue to lock them
in place. Put the glue directly on the rods, and a few drops of water inside the
holes, and tap them into place.
Image Notes
1. Drill holes first on either end of the desired slot location, and then cut out the
slot with a jigsaw.
Image Notes
1. Carriage bolt tightened just enough so it keeps the block in place but allows it
to slide smoothly.
Image Notes
1. The two rods should come up in the middle of the key ring, and rise to the
same height as the pin. You may need to grind off the very top of the back edge
of the pin to help the key ring slip off easier. However, don't do this until you've
tested it out to find out if you really need to. Make sure the key ring stays on
under pressure in the first place, and then you can worry about it coming off
properly.
Image Notes
1. The shuttle should slide back and forth easily, and should sit flush up against
the pin block, and travel backward about 3/4". This all needs fit and work
precisely, so adjust and tweak until everything works thus far before moving on.
Step 7:Trigger mechanism
The trigger mechanism is completely housed in the trigger handle build-up, but not actually attached to it.
The trigger handle build-up is bolted to the PVC with a carriage bolt at the front and back. Please examine the photos for more detailed information.
Image Notes
1. The actual trigger. It is made from hardwood, which is just a bit less than 1/2"
thick so it slides smoothly in the opening created for it in the trigger handle. It is
made so there is about 1/2" travel behind it when installed in the handle.
2. This notch was cut with a small saw and a chisel and holds the spring-stop
block back so the spring stays under pressure.
3. The spring stop block. Made from hardwood to fit the notch cut below. A hole
was drilled in the center, big enough to allow the trigger rod to slide smoothly,
but small enough to not let the spring escape.
4. The trigger rod, made from 3/16" metal rod. I'm not sure on the length...
measure and fit as needed.
5. This end is bent up and matches up to a hole drilled into the bottom of the
shuttle piece made in the last step.
Image Notes
1. This is a pancake head screw with the two different-sized small washers I
mentioned in the materials step, along with a 1/4" nylon spacer. This is tightened
down when the trigger mechanism is attached to the main tube. This is attached
through a slot cut in the main tube where it can slide back and forth freely.
Image Notes
1. This slot is cut much longer than is actually needed.
Image Notes
1. Metal rod is glued into the trigger with gorilla glue.
2. Trigger was painted at this point.
Image Notes
1. I found that by adding a sort of "gasket" made from craft foam to the upper
edges of the trigger handle piece, it fit better once bolted to the main tube.
These little strips of craft foam were glued in place with wood glue.
2. I added a little bolt here because the spring wasn't putting quite enough
pressure on the trigger with the spring stopping block where I had positioned it.
3. The spring stop block just sits in the notch and is not glued or attached in any
way.
Image Notes
1. It might be hard to see, but the sides of the channel here have been carved
Image Notes
1. This entire piece is attached first, and then the handle is bolted in place over
out a little more with my dremel to make room for the carriage bolt heads so they
don't either pinch and bind up or keep the handle from sitting flush with the main
tube when bolted in place.
it. This set-up is nice because everything can quickly be broken down if need
for adjustments or repairs.
Step 8:Front handles
The front handles are made from a laminate of 1/2" plywood and 3/4" plywood. This was just the thickness that felt nicest.
These were bolted in place with carriage bolts.
Image Notes
1. Note how these are placed on the handle guidelines--not centered, but lined up
below them.
Image Notes
1. A modified version of the trigger handle, only angled forward for ergonomics.
Image Notes
1. Note the craft foam gasket once again. These were routed with a round-over
bit for comfort.
Image Notes
1. Carriage bolts placed through from the inside for the handles, to keep the
inside of the tube as protrusion-free as possible.
Step 9:Pulley system front end assembly
The pulley front end assemblies are made from birch.
Various pieces were cut and pieced together with screws and glue to create a secure way to attach the pulleys to the front of the bazooka. These parts are crucial, and
the pulleys must be placed in precisely the right spot for the bungee cord to travel as needed both inside and outside the bazooka. See photo notes for details.
Image Notes
1. Those holes in center were a mistake, hence the plugs you see in the first
photo. If I had bolted these in place through these holes as I had intended, the
bolt heads (even though they were the round, mostly flat carriage-style) would
have been right in the way of the tubing bands when the bazooka was loaded.
Image Notes
1. All pieces made from birch hardwood.
2. These pieces are 1" by 1/2" by 6".
3. These pieces are 1 3/4" by 1" by 8" to begin with. Then one side is cut at a 30
degree angle.
Image Notes
1. Edges were cut with a jigsaw to look sleek and tapered toward the back
edges.
Image Notes Image Notes
1. The placement of these holes is crucial, as this is what lines up the pulley with
the opening of the tube. Make sure the pulley wheels are placed in a position
that allows the tubing bands to enter the PVC tube freely, but keeping the pulley
wheels away to the left and right of the bazooka mouth as far as possible so they
don't obstruct the opening of the tube any more than they need to. This will
require precise lining up and measuring on your part.
2. Disregard the holes on these pieces.
3. These holes are countersunk just a bit with a spade bit, but this is just for
looks. If you don't do this, you may need to buy slightly longer bolts than I have
listed.
1. A combination of glue and screws was used to put all these pieces together.
Image Notes
1. Predrill and countersink all holes for screws. The combination of screws and
glue make these pieces extremely solid.
Image Notes
1. Carefully note where the first round of screws went, and place the next round
accordingly to miss them.
Image Notes
1. I ended up needing five washers per bracket (three under and two over each
pulley wheel) to lift up the pulley wheels and space them evenly in the front arms
of the brackets.
Image Notes
1. Craft foam strips added to make a better fit against the main tube.
Step 10:Pulley system front end mounting to tube
The completed pulley brackets were screwed to the front end of the bazooka with pancake head screws. Epoxy was added prior to screwing them in place to add more
strength. I'm not sure how well epoxy holds up on PVC, but I'm guessing not so well. The screws probably suffice by themselves.
If you look inside the front end of the bazooka in some of the photos, you can see a lot of extra holes . . these reveal how many tries it took till I got the pulley brackets
attached precisely where I wanted them. (Turns out this was not as easy as screwing two flat items together, that's for sure!)
I didn't have a stubby-enough screw driver to get into the inside of the pipe to put all these screws in place, so I had to make my own. You can see it in the last two
photos above. It is made from a plug of wood created by drilling out a hole with a hole saw. A phillip's driver bit was glued into a 1/4" hole with gorilla glue. This super mini
screwdriver worked really well, and was the MVT of this project.
Image Notes
1. First mark and predrill holes in the PVC that will line up with the upper and
lower arms of each bracket.
2. Then position the bracket in place where you want it, and use a short pencil
to mark through the predrilled holes in the PVC onto the wood where you will
need to drill pilot holes.
Image Notes
1. Use a pencil to mark through these holes onto the bracket.
2. These lines help position for the correct angle when you drill the pilot holes.
Note that the screw heads will not sit flush in the inside of the pipe if you drill the
pilot holes perpendicular to the slanted face of the bracket arms.
Image Notes
1. I added some epoxy just for kicks. I searched a bit for the best adhesive to
attach wood to PVC, and came out knowing little more than when I started. My
gut tells me Shoe Goo might work better than epoxy, but ultimately mechanical
fasteners are the only way to go here.
2. See all the extra holes? The positioning of those didn't work out, so I placed
pieces of duct tape on the inside of the tube, and filled the non-usable holes with
hot glue. Then removed the tape when the glue was cooled.
Image Notes
1. Homemade screwdriver.
Image Notes
1. Toothpick used to wet the inside of the drilled out hole where the bit was to be
glued in.
2. I used my rotary tool with a metal cut-off attachment to cut grooves and
notches all around the bit. This gave a place for the glue to expand in and grab,
locking the bit into the wood that much more securely.
Step 11:Pulley system back end
The pulley system back end is made from two pieces of 3/4" plywood that were glued together. These were laid out so the back piece inside diameter was equal to the
inside diameter of the tube, and the inside diameter of the front piece was equal to the outer diameter of the tube. This created a lip so the tube butted right up against the
back piece, to make it that much more secure.
This was epoxied and screwed in place with pancake head screws. Eye bolts were added lined up with the left and right tube guidelines, to which the bungee cords
attach with quick links.
Image Notes
1. These were cut out with a jigsaw.
Image Notes
1. This glue was spread out into a thin layer before joining these two pieces.
Image Notes
1. After the glue was dry, I ran a router with a flush trim bit around the outside of
the ring on ones side and then the other. This cleaned up any imperfections that
existed between the two joined pieces.
2. That's about a 3/16" lip in there.
3. This are was removed from the front half of the ring to make room for the very
back of the trigger handle piece.
Image Notes
1. This notch is for the rear sight. Not that it will ever be used, but I thought it
would make the bazooka look cooler... like it you could use it as a sniper
bazooka.
Image Notes
1. Pull saw used to cut down 3/4" on that bottom notch.
Image Notes
1. Bottom notch chiseled out, and eyebolts added to line up precisely with the
side guidelines on the bazooka tube.
Step 12:Bungee tubing bands
I ended up using two 4-foot sections of blue thera-band for my bungee tubes. I experimented with bands created with the same length of amber surgical tubing, and with
other lengths of both types of tubing, but concluded that the 4-foot blue tube worked the best.
Each end of tubing was wrapped over a keyring, and taped tightly in place with filament tape.
Image Notes
1. I was wary about just taping these in place, but it has held up very well. I still
keep an eye on them and check them every time we use the bazooka to make
sure the tubing hasn't slipped through at all.
Step 13:Bungee kickback deflecting loops
Without these, and the side tubes shown in the next step, the bungee cords would kick back and smack the shooter in the face.
These U bolts act as an initial deflection that force the bungee tubes to retract back parallel to the main tube itself, rather than whip wildly out to the sides.
Image Notes
1. I cut the threaded sections off of these U bolts with my dremel . . . er, Black &
Decker rotary tool. (I generally think B&D branded tools are junk, but this is an
excellent tool and cost less than $30.)
Image Notes
1. Measured and drilled out holes to place the U bolts in place. I just pounded
this in place and didn't use any glue. They're not coming out any time soon.
Step 14:Bungee kickback deflecting side tubes
These side tubes keep the tubing from whipping all the way back and smacking the shooter in the face. They are made from 28-inch long pieces of 1" PVC.
Wooden brackets were made from plywood. The PVC is glued to the plywood brackets, and the brackets are screwed to the main tube.
Image Notes
1. Used a coarse sanding attachment to flute out the inside edges of both ends
Image Notes
1. Didn't quite fit in the holes made with my closest-sized hole saw, so I added a
of each PVC pipe, to make sure they don't cut up the tubing bands. few wraps of duct tape till they fit snugly.
Image Notes
1. These were glued in place with a ring of hot glue.
Step 15:Wood finish
All wood surfaces were finished with a few coats of brush-on polyurethane.
Step 16:Dart
The darts are basically a foam tube with a tennis ball on the end. The wires that stick out the sides attach to the front key rings on the resistance tubing on the bazooka,
and transfer the pull of the tubes back down the webbing to the back key ring, which is attached to the holding pin at the back end of the bazooka. See photo notes for
details.
Image Notes
1. I traced this and included a PDF of the pattern.
2. Seven-inch section of foam tube.
3. 12 inches of 3/4" webbing.
4. 1" by 2" pieces of craft foam for fins.
Image Notes
1. I just eyeballed the placement of the fins, marked the spot, and cut a slit
about a half-inch into the foam along each line.
Image Notes
1. I used tweezers to help wedge each fin into their slots in the foam. A few dots
of super glue were added to keep the fins in place.
Image Notes
1. The front section of the tube was hollowed out a bit to make room for the
backside of the tennis ball.
Image Notes
1. Front end of webbing folded over 1 1/4" and zig-zagged down with sewing
machine.
2. Back end of webbing folded over 2 1/2" and zig-zagged down. (The back end
loop is made large enough that you can put your fingers through to pull on it
when loading the dart in the bazooka, rather than pulling on the ring. I had a ring
stretch all the way apart due to the pressure on one of my first trial darts, and the
dart took off without notice and the key ring ripped a big gash in my finger as it
stretched apart.)
Image Notes
1. Dental floss is extremely tough, and I like to use it to sew stuff to tennis balls
through the felt.
Image Notes
1. Thread some dental floss onto a sewing needle, double it up and tie the two
loose ends. Start by threading the needle through a chunk of the tennis ball felt
(but don't puncture the tennis ball). To make sure the knot stays put, thread the
needle back through the two strands of floss, right in front of the knot, and pull it
tight.
Image Notes
1. Stitch over the wire and through some of the felt with each pass. Pull it tight,
and make a few passes over each side where the wire is in contact wit the ball.
Make sure you slip the webbing into place over the wire before you stitch up
both sides.
Image Notes
1. I added a few globs of hot glue over the sewed-on wire for good measure.
Image Notes
1. Thread the webbing through the foam tube from the front to back. I had to
make a little hook to reach up and grab it from the bottom.
Image Notes
1. Leave a small gap between the tennis ball and the top of the foam tube, and
squirt some hot glue onto the ball. If you squirt it onto the foam directly it will
melt it (at least it did on the first dart I made). Wait a few seconds for the glue to
cool just a bit, and then pull the webbing and tennis ball tight against the foam.
File Downloads
wire bending pattern.pdf (679 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'wire bending pattern.pdf']
Step 17:Sling for alternate ammo
The sling for alternate ammo is made from a piece of heavy canvas, some webbing, and some hand-bent wire hooks.
Well, I think that's about it. Thanks again for looking, and let me know what you think!
Image Notes
1. For firing other items, I made a sling out of webbing and a piece of cotton
canvas, with two hand-bent wire hooks that connect this to the tubing band key
rings.
Image Notes
1. These hooks needed to be bent down a little tighter, but still loose enough to
slip off when the object is fired. The sling sometimes flips out a few feet in front of
the bazooka when fired, and other times stays attached. The object leaves the
sling once it reaches the end of the bazooka either way.
Image Notes
1. 3" by 8" piece of heavy material.
2. Two hooks and a key ring.
3. 14" of 1" webbing.
4. 8" of 3/4" webbing.
Image Notes
1. I used a couple of needle nosed pliers to make these little hooks.
Image Notes
1. I began by zig-zagging around the outside of the piece of fabric.
Image Notes
1. I ironed down the top and bottom edges, and straight-stitched them down.
Image Notes
1. I ironed down the corners like you see here.
Image Notes
1. The 14" long piece of 1" webbing was sewed down to the center of the fabric
with a straight stitch.
Image Notes
1. From this side facing up here, the ironed down flaps were straight-stitched
down, and the fabric edge was zig-zagged down to the webbing.
Image Notes
1. The hooks were slipped over the ends of the webbing, and these ends were
zig-zagged down.
Image Notes
1. The 8" piece of 3/4" webbing was zig-zagged down to the backside of the
sling with a key ring in place on it.
2. Zig-zag to the sling here.
3. And to the sling here. Be sure to go back and forth on all zig-zag spots three
or four times, and keep the stitches short.
4. To itself here.
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Comments
4 comments Add Comment
mikeasaurus says: Oct 14, 2011. 9:54 AM REPLY
Great build, thanks for sharing (and for the video)!
dmdsanchez says: Oct 14, 2011. 9:33 AM REPLY
Dude this is awesome!!!!!! I need to get me one!!!!
makendo says: Oct 14, 2011. 9:00 AM REPLY
Looks great, fantastic description of the build. Water balloons? Snowballs? Possibilities are endless...
Kiteman says: Oct 14, 2011. 8:58 AM REPLY
That is outstanding. Well done, that Maker.

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