City of Bellevue

Pruning Guidelines
November 2009

Table of Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Why Prune Trees? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Pruning Goals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Pruning Techniques:
Structural Pruning of Young Trees. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Crown Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Crown Thinning. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Crown Raising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Crown Reduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Crown Restoration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Root Pruning. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Proper Pruning Practices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Pruning Cuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Practices That Harm Trees. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
When to Prune. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Pruning Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Conclusion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Appendix A: Glossary of Terms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Appendix B: Additional Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Introduction
The City of Bellevue is committed to natural resource stewardship and
a healthy and sustainable urban forest. Trees and vegetation provide
a multitude of benefits, which include clean water, clean air, enhanced
quality of life, and improved property values. A study in 2008 conducted
by the city to assess the benefits of the citys tree cover found 36 percent
tree canopy coverage city-wide. The tree canopy provides 62 million
cubic feet in stormwater detention services valued at $123 million.
Bellevues canopy removes 687,000 pounds of air pollutants annually at
a value of $1.55 million per year. The study also found that Bellevues tree
canopy stores 332,000 tons of carbon in trees wood and sequesters
2,582 tons of carbon annually. For these and many other reasons, the
preservation and care of trees is addressed in the citys Comprehensive
Plan as well as in its codes and regulations.
This guide is intended to inform residents, business owners, and
city staff of tree pruning techniques that reflect industry standards and
acceptable best management practices for trees in the city. This guide
represents acceptable guidelines for pruning of trees and should be used
in conjunction with Section 20.25H.055.C.3.i.vii of the Bellevue Land Use
Code. The techniques described here are allowed in geologic hazard
critical areas and critical area buffers without requiring a Critical Areas
Land Use Permit. A Clearing and Grading Permit (Bellevue City Code
Chapter 23.76) is still required. These pruning techniques are not allowed
in any other critical area or buffer without a Critical Areas Land Use
Permit. Finally, this guide can facilitate effective communication when the
expertise of a competent tree care professional is required. For questions
regarding permit requirements, call 425-452-4188.
The practices set forth in this guide are consistent with the pruning
guidelines and Best Management Practices adopted by the International
Society of Arboriculture, the American National Standard for Tree Care
Operations Tree, Shrub, and Other Woody Plant Maintenance-Standard
Practices (ANSI A300-1995), the U.S. Forest Service, and the National
Arbor Day Foundation. This guide was prepared by the City of Bellevue
with technical expertise from Davey Resource Group, a division of The
Davey Tree Expert Company.

page 1

Throughout this document key terms are in bold with their definition
found in the Glossary of Terms (Appendix A). In addition, critical
information and important rules of thumb are designated by this symbol
a.

Why Prune Trees?

Trees, having evolved in forests where they must compete for available
light, developed a natural ability to shed limbs. As this natural process
occurs, the tissue around the branch attachment in the stem develops
wound-wood as it heals and protects against decay. For trees in an
urban or suburban landscape setting, this natural process of branch
development and shedding can pose a risk to people and property.
These trees may require pruning. Pruning branches can be one of the
most beneficial practices arborists do to trees, significantly improving
their health, structure and beauty. Conversely, improper pruning can
hasten the demise of a tree and cause damage, which can continue for
the life of the tree.
There are three primary reasons trees should be pruned.

Health

Safety
Figure 1. Reasons to Prune

Aesthetics

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood,

thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems,
and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be
used to encourage trees to develop a strong structure and reduce
the likelihood of damage during severe weather. Removing broken or
damaged limbs encourages wound closure.

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Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fail and cause
injury or property damage, trimming branches that interfere with lines of
sight on streets or driveways, and removing branches that grow into utility
lines. Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species
that will not grow beyond the space available to them and have strength
and form characteristics that are suited to the site.
Pruning for aesthetics involves enhancing the natural form and
character of trees or stimulating flower and fruit production. Pruning for
form can be especially important on open-grown trees that do very little
self-pruning. In some cases, tree pruning can be conducted to enhance
views beyond the tree itself. This is a reasonable option when the trees
structure and health can be preserved, allowing it to continue to provide
benefits that would be lost if the tree were removed altogether.

Pruning Goals
As indicated, pruning should only be done with a specific goal in mind.
Before any tree pruning project is undertaken, the goal or outcome
should be identified. In many cases, different goals require different
pruning approaches.
When tree care professionals are hired, it is critical that the arborist and
the property owner agree on the desired goal. Extensive communication
before any work begins ensures the tree receives the most appropriate
pruning.
The following matrix (Table 1) will guide property owners and arborists in
choosing the best prescription for the desired goal. If your desired goal or
tactic is not listed as an option, it is likely that pruning is not necessary for
your situation.

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Table 1. Pruning Goal/Method Matrix

Pruning Techniques

GOAL

Structural

Reduce Risk of
Failure (Safety)

Crown
Cleaning

Crown
Thinning

Provide Clearance
Reduce Shade and
Wind Resistance

Crown
Crown Restoration Root
Raising Reduction Pruning Pruning
X

Maintain Health

Influence Flower
or Fruit Production

X
X
X

Improve
Aesthetics

Tree Planting

Improve View
X

X
X

Sidewalk/
Driveway Repair

X
X
X
X

a WARNING: Only Qualified Line Clearance Tree Trimmers can prune within ten
(10) feet of any electrical conductor. Contact your local utility if your trees are growing near
the power lines. Assume all overhead wires are energized!

Pruning Technique:
Structural Pruning of Young Trees
Structural pruning principles are primarily used when pruning young
or newly planted trees. Properly trained young trees will develop into
structurally strong trees that should require little corrective pruning as
they mature. One of the best ways to prevent potential tree hazards and
increased maintenance costs in the future is to choose quality tree stock
for new plantings, perform proper structural pruning at an early age (go
to http://www.ufei.org/Standards&Specs.html#purchase for choosing
quality nursery stock), and be sure the right species is chosen for the
right situation.
Trees that will be large at maturity should have a sturdy, tapered trunk
with well-spaced branches smaller in diameter than the trunk.
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If two branches develop from apical buds at the tip of the same stem,
they will form co-dominant branches (Figure 2). Each co-dominant
branch is a direct extension of the stem. It is best if one is removed when
the tree is young. Remove these co-dominant branches by cutting one
branch at the proper angle in relation to the crotch (Figure 2).

Figure 2.
Codominant Branches

Figure 3.
Included Bark

Branches with narrow angles of attachment and co-dominant branches

tend to break at the point of attachment if there is included bark (Figure
3). Included bark is bark that gets enclosed inside the crotch as the two
branches develop. It weakens the branch attachment, making the tree
more prone to storm damage. Such branches are preferably removed.
a The relative size of a branch in relation to the trunk is more
important for strength of branch attachment than is the angle
of attachment. When pruning young trees for structure, the goal
should be to have branches that are not greater than one-half the
diameter of the trunk or the parent stem.

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B
C

Branch Bark Ridge

Branch Collar

Figure 4. Conifer Pruning

Conifers may require minor pruning to remove crossing branches or
some shaping during the first few years after planting. Figure 4 illustrates
some conifer pruning tips.
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Pruning Technique: Crown Cleaning

Crown cleaning is a series of pruning cuts that remove hazardous,
declining, and/or dead branches. Excessive epicormic branches
(watersprouts, suckers) throughout the tree canopy are also
selectively removed, leaving more dominant ones intact that show good
development in desired directions (Figure 5).

Figure 5. Crown Cleaning

Crown cleaning can help reduce conditions in the tree that could place
people or property at risk. It can be performed on trees of any age but is
most common on medium-aged and mature trees that have had minimal
maintenance. Crown cleaning could also include some restructuring
such as removing branches with included bark to reduce likelihood of
breakage.
Since crown cleaning involves the removal of limbs that may have
diseases, it is important to follow good sanitation practices. Some
diseases, such as canker stain of plane tree and fire blight in crabapple
and mountain ash, can be spread by pruning tools.
a When removing branches in trees infected by these or other
diseases, cut 12 to 18 inches below the unhealthy area.
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As a precaution, pruning tools should be disinfected between each

pruning cut. Rubbing alcohol, disinfectant spray, or a 1:10 mixture of
bleach and water are the recommended disinfectants. This precaution
can take extra time and is not always followed by every tree company,
but can go a long way in keeping trees healthy and should be insisted
upon.

Pruning Technique: Crown Thinning

Crown thinning is the selective removal of branches and epicormic
growth to increase light penetration and air movement and to reduce end
weight on tree branches (Figure 6). Proper thinning involves removing
branches at their point of origin or back to appropriate lateral branches.
Crown thinning may reduce risk of storm damage among intact tree
canopies, allowing wind to pass through canopies of balanced foliage
and stems.
Thinning does not normally influence the size or shape of the tree and
should result in an even distribution of branches along individual limbs,
not a grouping toward the ends. Removal of only interior branches
can create an effect known as lion-tailing. This displaces foliar weight
to the ends of the branches and may result in sunburned bark tissue,
watersprouts, reduced branch taper, weakened branch structure, and
breakage.
a A properly thinned tree should look natural, balanced, and
healthy. Almost like no work has been done at all.

Figure 6. Examples of Crown Thinning

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Pruning Technique: Crown Raising

Crown raising is the removal of the lower branches of a tree in order
to provide clearance on trees that obstruct vision and/or may interfere
with pedestrian and vehicular traffic (Figure 7). Lifting or raising should be
performed on young and medium-aged trees to prevent low branches
from growing to a large diameter. Lower limbs on young trees should
remain as long as possible to create and maintain trunk taper and
develop a stronger trunk. Young or medium-aged trees also tend to heal
better than older trees. Removal of large diameter limbs low on the tree
can create large wounds that may not heal and promote decay on the
main trunk.
A common practice on young trees to avoid large low branches is to
shorten low branches regularly and suppress their growth to force more
growth in the upper branches. The shortened branches are later removed
to raise the crown as needed.
a To promote tree health and stability do not remove more than
30-33 percent of the lower canopy (Figure 8).

Figure 7. Crown Raising for Sign Clearance

retain
67 percent
crown

prune
33 percent

Figure 8. Crown Raising for Urban Landscapes

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Conifers may require crown raising to provide clearance (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Crown Raising of Conifers

a A good rule of thumb is to never remove lower limbs that
would result in less than 50 percent of the trees height being
covered in live limbs.

Pruning Technique: Crown Reduction

Crown reduction (drop-crotch pruning) is the cutting of limbs back to
their point of origin or back to a lateral branch capable of sustaining the
remaining limb and assuming apical dominance of the limb (Figure 10).
Reduction is used to reduce the size of
a tree by decreasing the length of one
or many stems and branches (Figure
11).

Figure 10.
Drop-Crotch Pruning

Crown reduction is not the same

as topping. The City of Bellevue and
the tree care industry do not condone
topping or heading cuts back to stubs
or weak lateral branches because this
creates large wounds and can increase
risk and potential liability for the tree
owner.

Crown reduction must consider the

ability of the species to sustain this type of pruning. Reduction cuts
at smaller laterals require knowledge of plant anatomy and pruning
page 10

methodology. Properly executed, this technique ensures subsequent

wound closure and reduces the risk of long-term damage from decay.
a When a branch is cut back to a lateral, no more than onefourth of its foliage should be removed.
a The remaining lateral branch must be at least one-third the
diameter of the removed portion. This rule can vary with species,
age, climate, and the condition of the tree.
Although crown reduction pruning can control tree size to a certain
degree, it is no substitute for matching the correct tree species with the
site when planting, Right-Tree Right Place.

Figure 11.
Crown Reduction Pruning

Pruning Technique: Crown Restoration

Crown restoration pruning is performed to improve the structure, form,
and appearance of trees that have been topped, vandalized, or storm
damaged. The success of restoration pruning depends on the ability of
the tree to compartmentalize decay, extent and location of damage
and the skill of the arborist attempting restoration. Restoring a tree to
a sustainable structure usually requires a number of prunings over a
period of years as new dominant branches will take time to form. Not
all trees that have been damaged are candidates for crown restoration
and a professional tree care specialist should be consulted to evaluate
the tree. It may not be possible to restructure the tree and removal and
replacement may be a more viable option.
page 11

Before restoration

Remove some sprouts and shorten others

Figure 12. Thinning of Epicormic Growth

The process of crown restoration can be a combination of crown
cleaning, crown thinning, and crown reduction, depending on the severity
of the damage. Removal of dead or broken limbs and stubs should
be completed first. If the tree had been topped or broken limbs are
present, there will most likely be epicormic growth that will need thinning
to allow more dominant limbs to grow (Figure 12). Sometimes these
limbs will need to be reduced to a proper lateral (drop-crotch pruning) to
completely remove the stub and sucker growth. When selecting branches
to remain on the tree consideration to how the limbs are attached must
be given.
a Choose limbs that are more U-shaped to remain rather than
limbs with a sharper angle of attachment; V-shaped (Figure 13).
Remove these co-dominant branches by cutting one branch at the
proper angle in relation to the crotch (Figure 13).

Figure 13. Correcting Co-Dominant Branches

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Pruning Technique: Root Pruning

Root pruning is the selective removal of tree roots. It is done when
conflicts between tree roots and existing infrastructure (such as sidewalks
and driveways) or underground utilities (such as water or sewer lines)
have been identified. Root pruning may be necessary to repair damaged
hardscape, reduce the potential hazards, or correct girding roots.
When trees are root pruned, there is always a risk of tree failure. Tree
species, age, size, site conditions, existing problems, vigor, and extent of
pruning are just some of the factors. Mature trees can be less tolerant of
root pruning than young trees. Trees with defects or poor general health
are not good candidates for root pruning.
Excavate the root zone using an air-spade and/or by hand digging
prior to root pruning. This allows for exposure of the roots for easy
identification and clean cuts. Make all cuts with a clean, sharp saw. In
some cases, a stump grinder may be used to cleanly cut roots. Root
pruning cuts should not be made with an axe, a back-hoe bucket, or
ditch excavating machine. These tools tend to shatter and splinter roots,
promoting decay and decline. After removing the offending roots, add
coarse gravel as a base for a new sidewalk or pavers.
Determine the presence of girdling roots and remove if necessary.
Girdling roots can be caused by the unfavorable growing conditions or
restricted space (Figure 14).
a Ideally, all root
pruning cuts should be
at least a distance of five
times the trunk diameter
from the outside of the
trunk. For example, if the
tree is 24 inches in diameter
at breast height, then the
closest root pruning cut
growing next to curbs
growing around trunk
should be a minimum of 120
Figure 14. Girdling Roots
inches from the trunk. The
closer to the trunk the roots
are pruned the greater the effect on the tree.
a Cutting more than 25 percent of a trees root zone can cause
fatal injury to a tree and should be avoided.
page 13

Proper Pruning Practices

Most people can easily acquire tools for proper pruning at most local
hardware stores or home improvement centers. Unfortunately, it is
much more difficult to obtain the skills necessary to safely carry out the
pruning technique appropriate for the desired objective. Professional
tree trimmers, or arborists, undertake hours of training and practical
experience on various pruning techniques, tree identification, tree
climbing practices, and safety before they are qualified to perform these
specialized techniques.
Pruning Cuts
Correctly removing a branch from a tree involves having a basic
understanding of plant physiology and how a tree heals. Each cut should
be made carefully, at the correct location, leaving a smooth surface with
no jagged edges or torn bark.

Figure 15. Proper Pruning Cuts

Figure 16. Three-Step

Pruning Cut

a The correct anatomical location is just beyond the branch

collar or shoulder (Figure 15). This method is also known as
natural target pruning.
Large or heavy limbs should be removed using three cuts. The first cut
undercuts the limb one or two feet out from the parent branch or trunk. A
properly made undercut will eliminate the chance of the branch peeling
or tearing bark as it is removed. The second cut is the top cut which
is usually made slightly further out on the limb than the undercut. This
allows the limb to drop smoothly when the weight is released. The third
cut is to remove the stub, while preserving the branch collar and branch
bark ridge (Figure 16). This method can be used for most pruning cuts
including drop crotch pruning.
page 14

a Use the following guide for size of branches to be removed:

1. Under two inches in diameter go ahead,
2. Between two and four inches in diameter think twice, and
3. Greater than four inches in diameter have a good reason.
Practices That Harm Trees
Topping and tipping (Figures 17A and 17B) are pruning practices
that harm trees and should not be used. Topping is the pruning of large
upright branches between nodes and is often done to reduce the height
of a tree. Tipping is a practice of cutting lateral branches between nodes
to reduce crown width or branch length. These practices result in the
development of epicormic sprouts or in the death of the cut branch back
to the next lateral branch below. These epicormic sprouts are weakly
attached to the stem and eventually will be supported by a decaying
branch.
Improper pruning cuts cause unnecessary injury and bark ripping
(Figure 17C). Flush cuts can injure stem tissues and can result in decay
(Figure 17D). Stub cuts delay wound closure and can provide entry to
canker fungi that kill the cambium, delaying or preventing wound-wood
formation (Figure 17E).
It is important that the safety of the tree be evaluated by a professional
arborist before any pruning is attempted on a tree. There may be
structural defects that will endanger property and the people who use the
area as well as the worker who attempts to prune the tree.

Figure 17. Improper Pruning Cuts

page 15

When to Prune
The best time to prune trees depends on your goal and pruning
technique employed.
a Growth after pruning is maximized if pruning is done just
before the period of rapid growth, which is in early spring.
Plant growth can be reduced if pruning takes place soon after growth
is complete for the season. Most routine removal of weak, diseased,
undesirable, or dead limbs can be accomplished at any time with little
effect on the tree.
Flowering can be enhanced or prevented by pruning at the appropriate
time of the year. Trees that bloom on the current seasons growth,
such as crepe myrtle or linden, are best pruned in winter, prior to leaf
emergence, or in late summer after bloom has occurred. Plants that
bloom on last seasons wood, such as fruit trees, should be pruned just
after bloom or after leaf fall.
Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but pruning during the
dormant season may minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches.
However, some species of pine are more susceptible to pest infestation
when pruned during the growing season. Recent wounds and the
chemical scents they emit can actually attract insects that spread tree
disease.
Table 3 demonstrates some suggested pruning times of certain tree
types.

page 16

Table 3. Suggested Pruning Periods by Tree Types*

WINTER
December

January

February

conifers
summer/fall flowering trees
elms, oaks, ash, maple
fruit trees
SPRING
March

April

May

July

August

broadleaf evergreens
SUMMER
June
broadleaf evergreens
spring flowering trees

summer/fall flowering
trees

FALL
September

October

November

elms, oaks, ash, maple

conifers
summer/fall flowering
trees
fruit trees
*Check with your county extension agent or a horticulturist for additional information.

page 17

Pruning Tools
The proper pruning equipment is almost as important as knowing and
practicing correct pruning. Pruning operations progress more smoothly
and safely if the right tools are selected for the job and if the equipment is
well maintained.

A B
bypass shears anvil pruner
Figure 18. Hand Pruning Shears

Hand pruning shearsthe smallest shearsare made for cutting

branches up to about a one-half-inch in diameter. Bypass shears (Figure
18A) are the recommended type. They should make a shearing cutthe
cutting blade passes the anvil as it cuts through the branch. A close cut
can be made with less effort by placing the cutting blade against the
branch or trunk from which the limb is to be removed. Bypass shears are
especially useful to give shrubs a natural appearance. The anvil pruner
(Figure 18B), where the cutting blade presses against the anvil as the cut
is completed, is not recommended for pruning trees because they tend
to crush branches instead of slicing.

Figure 19. Lopping Shears

Lopping shears (Figure 19) have long handles to exert great cutting
power when pruning branches up to two inches in diameter. As with hand
page 18

pruning shears, the bypass type is preferred

over the anvil type.
A pole pruner (Figure 20) is a specially
designed pruning shear adapted for use on
the end of a pole. The anvil is more strongly
hooked than in hand pruners or lopping
shears to grasp the branch more securely
as the cut is made. Because tree experts
often work close to energized lines, the only
metal in professional pole pruners is in the
cutting parts.
a To avoid serious electrical shock,
never use aluminum poles.
The operator exerts cutting power through
a rope from the end of the handle to a
compound lever arrangement at the cutting
head. Pruning poles vary in length and some
have a connecting sleeve and an additional
10foot pole so that the operators reach is
extended to 20 feet.
The basic saw available at most arborist
Figure 20. Pole Pruner supply outlets is the 24inch curved
speed saw (Figure 21A). This saw cuts
rapidly and, unlike carpenter saws, cuts
when pulled rather than when pushed. This saw can cut branches with
diameters ranging from too large for the hand pruner to several inches in
diameter. There are smaller,
curved pruning saws that cut
on the pull and have finer teeth
than the large speed saws
(Figure 21B). These smaller
saws are useful where there
are many small cuts to be
made that are too large in
diameter for hand pruners.

Figure 21. Types of Saws

Pole saws (Figure 21C)

are smaller versions of the
finetoothed, curved speed
page 19

Figure 22. Chain Saw

saws. They cut

on the pull and
are mounted
on tenfoot
lightweight
poles, extending
the operators
reach by the
length of the
pole.

The chain saw

(Figure 22) is probably the most often used and most dangerous pruning
equipment an arborist handles. The user must respect the power and
speed with which they cut. Chain saws are especially useful in removing
large limbs or cutting up fallen limbs and trees.
Professional tree care personnel will also have a variety of climbing gear
to safely ascend into a tree to perform pruning operations (Figure 23).
Properly trained climbers can easily
work in the tree while being securely
tied in and can safely move around
the branches.
The use of climbing spurs can
assist climbers in safely moving
about a wet or moss-covered tree,
but spurs can cause damage to
trees by wounding the wood and
should only be used when a tree is
to be removed.
The practice of climbing trees with
ropes should only be performed by
qualified persons and should not be
attempted by untrained individuals.
Other personal protective gear
should include safety glasses, hard
hat, gloves, and appropriate clothing.
Figure 23. Professional Climber
page 20

If you feel you lack the necessary skills, equipment, or understanding to

perform any of the described techniques, you should contact a licensed
professional arborist.
a A good rule of thumb is that if you have to leave the
ground, even on a ladder, to prune your tree, you should hire a
professional.

Conclusion
Pruning is one of the most important and visible management actions
used on woody vegetation in the urban environment. Proper pruning is
a wise investment that can extend the useful life of trees and shrubs,
improving their safety and adding significantly to the values they provide.
Conversely, improper pruning can irreparably damage a tree or shrub,
significantly detracting from its value and possibly making it hazardous.
This pruning guide should be used to make informed decisions as to
whether pruning is necessary based on your overall objectives and to
improve understanding of tree health and maintenance needs.
The pruning practices set forth in this guide represent the current
accepted standards in the industry. The City of Bellevue promotes
these guidelines as the expected level of care for both city and privately
owned trees. Property owners and tree care professionals are strongly
encouraged to adhere to these pruning guidelines and seek additional
advice from the City of Bellevue if conflicts or questions arise. When
higher standards of care are put into practice by all stakeholders, the
multiple benefits of the urban forest can be realized.

page 21

Appendix A: Glossary of Terms

Air Spade: A pneumatic soil probe that delivers sudden bursts of
air to crack, loosen, or expand the soil to improve the root growing
environment or for trench excavation to preserve root tissue.
Apical buds: The terminal bud, or tip, of a stem of a main leader that
maintains dominance. Removing the apical bud can promote lateral buds
to grow.
Arborist: A professional who possesses the technical competence
through experience and related training to provide for or supervise
the management of trees and other woody plants in the residential,
commercial, and public landscape.
Branch: A secondary shoot or stem arising from one of the main axes
(i.e., trunk or leader) of a tree or woody plant.
Branch collar: Trunk tissue that forms around the base of a branch
between the main stem and the branch or a branch and a lateral. As a
branch decreases in vigor or begins to die, the branch collar becomes
more pronounced.
Branch bark ridge: Raised area of bark in the branch crotch that
marks where the branch wood and trunk wood meet.
Cambium: Dividing layer of cells that forms sapwood (xylem) to the
inside and bark (phloem) to the outside.
Climbing spurs: Sharp, pointed devices affixed to the climbers leg
used to assist in climbing trees (also known as gaffs, hooks, spurs,
spikes, climbers).
Co-dominant: Two main branches that originate at the same point on
the main trunk. These create a weak union that is more prone to failure
than normal branch development.
Compartmentalization: The process within woody plants of building
cell walls around decay to prevent the spread.
Conifers: Cone bearing trees such as pines, firs, and redwoods.

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Crotch: The angle formed at the attachment between a branch and

another branch, leader, or trunk of a woody plant.
Crown: The leaves and branches of a tree or shrub; the upper portion
of a tree from the lowest branch on the trunk to the top.
Decay: Degradation of woody tissue caused by biological organisms.
Epicormic branches: A branch that arises from latent or adventitious
buds; also known as water sprouts that occur on stems and branches
and suckers that are produced from the base of trees. In older wood,
epicormic shoots often result from severe defoliation, excessive pruning,
or topping.
Girdling roots: Roots located above or below ground whose circular
growth around the base of the trunk or over individual roots applies
pressure to the bark area, ultimately restricting sap flow and trunk/root
growth, frequently resulting in reduced vitality or stability of the plant.
Heading: Cutting a currently growing or one-year-old shoot back to a
bud, or cutting an older branch or stem back to a stub or lateral branch
not sufficiently large enough to assume the terminal role. Heading should
rarely be used on mature trees.
Included bark: Bark enclosed between branches with narrow angles
of attachment, forming a wedge between the branches.
Lateral: A branch or twig growing from a parent branch or stem.
Natural Target Pruning: Utilizing natural markers on the tree to ensure
pruning occurs without injuring the branch bark ridge or collar.
Nodes: Point along a branch where leaf or lateral shoot growth
originates. Just above a node is also the correct place to make a pruning
cut.
Parent branch or stem: The tree trunk; or a large limb from which
lateral branches grow.

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Qualified line clearance tree trimmer: A tree worker who, through

related training and on-the-job experience, is familiar with the techniques
in line clearance and has demonstrated his/her ability in the performance
of the special techniques involved. This qualified person may or may not
be currently employed by a line clearance contractor.
Topping: An inappropriate technique to reduce tree size that cuts
through a stem more than two years old at an indiscriminant location.
Wound: The opening that is created any time the trees protective
bark covering is penetrated, cut, or removed, injuring or destroying living
tissue. Pruning a live branch creates a wound, even when the cut is
properly made.

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Appendix B: Additional Resources

ANSI Z133.1. 1994. Safety standards. American national standard
for tree care operators. Washington, DC: American National Standards
Institute.
ANSI A300. 1995. Standard practices for tree, shrub, and other woody
plant maintenance. Washington, DC: American National Standards
Institute.
Fare, D. 1999, Pruning landscape trees, shrubs and ground covers.
University of Tennessee, Agricultural Extension Service.
Gilman, E. F. An illustrated guide to pruning, 2nd Edition - 2002,
DelMar.
Fazio, J. R. ed. 1992. Dont top trees. Tree City USA Bulletin No. 8.
Nebraska City, NE: The National Arbor Day Foundation.
Harris, R.W. 1994. Clarifying certain pruning terminology: thinning,
heading, pollarding. Journal of Arboriculture 20:50-54.
ISA Performance Guidelines Committee. 1994. Tree-pruning guidelines.
Savoy, IL: International Society of Arboriculture.
OSHA Regulations for Electric Power Generation, Transmission, and
Distribution. 1910.269.
Ryan, H.D.P. III. 1994. Arboricultural pruning methodologies. Arborist
News Volume 3(4):33-38.
Shigo, A. 1991. Modern arboriculture. Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees,
Associates.
Shigo, A. 1989. Tree pruning: a worldwide photo guide. Durham, NH:
Shigo & Trees, Associates.
Trees are good, 2007 International Society of Arboriculture. http://
www.treesaregood.com/treecare/treecareinfo.aspx.
Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute Copyright 2008. http://www.ufei.
org/.

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City of Bellevue
www.bellevuewa.gov
425-452-6800

International Society of Arboriculture

www.isa-arbor.com
National Arbor Day Foundation
ww.arborday.org

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