TM 9-811 DIAMOND T CARGO, PONTON, WRECKER, DUMP

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WAR DEPARTMENTTECHNICAL MANUAL
<Tl
4:JON, 6x6 TRUCKS
mAMOND T MODELS
968A CARGO,
969A WRECKER,
970A PONTON,
AND 972 DUMP)
'94;
WAR DEPARTMENT
25JANUARY 1944
Generated on 2013-06-12 07:42 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243767 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google
WAR DEPARTMENT TECHNICAL MANUAL
*TM 9-811
4-TON, 6x6 TRUCKS
(DIAMOND T MODELS
968A CARGO,
969A WRECKER,
970A PONTON,
AND 972 DUMP)
WAR DEPARTMENT
25 January 1944
"This manual supersedes TB 811-1 dated 22 October 1943. This manual also con-
tains pertinent information from TM 10-1297, TM 10-1335, TM 10-1517,
TM 10-1533, TM 10-1605, and TM 10-1607, and, together with
TM 9-1811 and TM 9-1832A, supersedes these manuals.
WAR DEPARTMENT
Washington 25, D. C, 25 January 1944
TM 9-811, 4-ton, 6x6 Trucks (Diamond T Models 968A Cargo, 969A
Wrecker, 970A Ponton, and 972 Dump) is published for the informa-
tion and guidance of all concerned.
[A. G. 300.7 (3 June 43)]
BY ORDER OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR:
G. C. MARSHALL,
Chief of Staff.
OFFICIAL:
J. A. ULIO,
Major General,
The Adjutant General.
DISTRIBUTION: X
(For explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6)
-'
ri
CONTENTS fV-tt.
PART ONEVEHICLE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION
in
IV
VI
VII
VIII
Introduction
Description and tabulated data
Driving controls and operation
Operation of auxiliary
equipment
Operation under unusual
conditions
Inspection and preventive
maintenance service. .
Paragraphs Pages
1 5- 6
2-4
5-8
7-23
24-37
Lubrication
Tools and equipment stowage
on vehicles. .
9-13 38-53
14_19 54-66
20-24 67-76
25-26 77-84
27-31 85-96
PART TWOVEHICLE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION IX
FSMWO and major unit as-
sembly replacement record.
Organizational tools and equip-
32
97
ment
33
98
XI
New vehicle run-in test . . .
34-36
99-103
XII
Organization preventive main-
tenance services
37
104-118
XIII
Trouble shooting
38-56
119-133
XIV
Engine maintenance and ad-
justment in vehicle
57-68
134-148
XV
Engine removal and
installation
69-70
149-154
XVI
Clutch
71-74
155-160
TM 9-811
4-TON, 6x6 TRUCKS (DIAMOND T MODELS 968A CARGO,
969A WRECKER, 970A PONTON, AND 972 DUMP)
Paragraph!
Pages
SECTION XXIII
Batteries and lighting system .
100-102
203-218
XXIV
Transmission
103-105
219-225
XXV
Transfer
106-109
226-232
XXVI
Propeller shafts and universal
joints
110-112
233-239
XXVII
Front axle
113-117
240-245
XXVIII
Rear axles
118-121
246-249
XXIX
Brakes
122-136
250-279
XXX
Wheels
137-139
280-291
XXXI
Suspension
140-144
292-307
XXXII
Steering
145-149
308-311
XXXIII
Frame and bodies
150-154
312-320
XXXIV
Power take-off
155-157
321-323
XXXV
Front-mounted winch
158-163
324-330
XXXVI
Wrecker
164-171
331-343
XXXVII
Wrecker air compressor
172-176
344_348
XXXVIII
Dump pump and hoist
177-179
349-354
TM 9-811
PART ONEVEHICLE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Section I
INTRODUCTION
Paragraph
Scope 1
1. SCOPE.
a. *This technical manual'is published for the information and
guidance of the using arm personnel charged with the operation and
maintenance of this materiel.
b. In addition to a description of the 4-ton, 6x6 truck (Diamond T,
Models 968A Cargo, 969A Wrecker, 970A Ponton, and 972 Dump),
this manual contains technical information required for the identifica-
tion, use, and care of the materiel. The manual is divided into two
parts. Part One, section I through section VIII, contains vehicle oper-
ating instructions. Part Two, section IX through section XLIII, con-
tains vehicle maintenance instructions for the using arm personnel
charged with the responsibility of doing maintenance work within their
jurisdiction.
c. In all cases where the nature of the repair, modifications, or
adjustment is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the responsible
ordnance service should be informed, so that trained personnel with
suitable tools and equipment may be provided, or proper instructions
issued.
*To provide operating instructions with the materiel, this technical manual has
been published in advance of complete technical review. Any errors or omissions
will be corrected by changes, or, if extensive, by an early revision.
4)
>
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
Section II
DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA
Paragraph
Description 2
Designations 3
Data 4
2. DESCRIPTION.
a. General. The various models covered by this publication are
all built on the same basic chassis, which is a 4-ton, 6x6 job, powered
with a conventional six-cylinder gasoline engine. A five-speed overdrive
transmission and a direct and underdrive transfer are used on all mod-
els. All three axles are driving axles of conventional double-reduction
design. Rear axles are dual-wheeled.
h. Identification. The four chassis are similar in appearance, and
are built with open-type and closed-type cabs. These vehicles may be
recognized by the design of the cabs, the contour of the fenders, and! the
appearance of the hood and radiator. The axle housings are clearly
visible under the vehicle, and may be recognized as the banjo type.
The' vehicles may be positively identified by the nomenclature plate
mounted on the left cowl side under the hood.
c. Differences among Models (figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4).
(1) CARGO TRUCK (MODEL 968A). The cargo truck is built on
the standard 4-ton, 6x6 chassis. Special equipment consists of a stand-
ard-type wooden cargo body with a tarpaulin top and troop seats, a
power-driven, front-mounted winch, and two spare tires. The power
take-off is mounted on the transmission.
(2) WRECKER TRUCK (MODEL 969A) (figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8). The
wrecker truck is built on the standard 4-ton, 6x6 chassis. Special
equipment consists of a steel wrecker body, twin boom power-driven
wrecker equipment, welding tanks and equipment, a gasoline-driven
air compressor unit, a power-driven front-mounted winch, and two
spare tires. The power take-off which drives the wrecker equipment is
mounted on the transfer, and the power take-off which drives the winch
is on the transmission.
(3) PONTON TRUCK (MODEL 970A) (figs. 9 and 10). The ponton
truck is built on a chassis which is the same as the standard 4-ton, 6x6
chassis, except that it has a longer wheelbase (par. 5). Special equip-
ment consists of a standard-type wooden ponton body, with a tarpaulin
top and a power-driven front-mounted winch. The power take-off is
mounted on the left side of the transmission.
(4) DUMP TRUCK (MODEL 972) (figs. 11 and 12). The dump
truck is built on the standard 4-ton, 6x6 chassis. Special equipment
consists of a steel dump body, with power-driven hoist equipment. The
power take-off for the hoist is mounted on the transfer case. There is
no winch on this model.
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
10
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
3. DESIGNATIONS.
a. General. Serial numbers and type designations sometimes
appear on plates attached to the various units, and sometimes are
stamped on the units. Detailed information regarding the location of
these follows: .
b. Chassis Plate (fig. 13). A chassis nomenclature plate, showing
the vehicle nomenclature, make, model, weights, serial number, and
gasoline and oil recommendations, is attached to the left side of the
cowl under the hood.
c. Engine Plate. An engine serial number plate is located on the
left side of the cylinder block.
d. Publication Plate (fig. 14). A plate is mounted on the left side
of the cowl under the hood, which lists the Ordnance Department num-
bers of publications applying to these vehicles.
e. Winch Plate (fig. 14). A plate is mounted on top of the winch
gear box which gives the model and serial number of the winch assem-
bly. This plate is not found on dump trucks.
f. Winch Power Take-off Plate (fig. 14). A serial number plate
is mounted on the transmission power take-off shifting cover. This
plate is not found on dump trucks.
g. Wrecker Plate (fig. 14). A serial number plate is attached to
the right side of the wrecker frame.
h. Wrecker Air Compressor Plates (fig. 14). A serial number
plate is attached to the air compressor units used on wrecker models.
i. Miscellaneous Designations.
(1) FRAME. Vehicle serial number is stamped on the right side-
rail over the front spring rear hanger.
(2 ) FRONT AXLE. The front axle serial number is stamped on the
top of the housing banjo, and that of the differential carrier is stamped
on a boss at the filler plug.
(3) REAR AXLES. The forward rear axle serial number is stamped
on the housing just above the level plug. The rear rear axle serial num-
ber is stamped on the housing banjo on the side opposite the filler plug
near the carrier deck.
(4) TRANSFER. The transfer serial number is stamped on a boss
on the case next to the filler plug.
(5) TRANSMISSION. The transmission serial number is located on
the rear face of the case.
(6) STEERING GEAR. An identification number is stamped on top
of the gear housing.
(7) ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES. The generator, distributor, start-
ing motor, starter switch and solenoid switch have plates designating
model and manufacturing data. Generators also carry serial numbers.
(8) AIR COMPRESSOR. A plate showing model and manufacturing
data is attached to the air compressor.
(9) GOVERNOR. A plate showing the serial number is attached to
the governor flyball housing.
(10) BATTERY. The type designation is stamped on one of the cell
connecting bars.
11
12
TM 9-811
13
TM 9-811
14
TM 9-811
15
TM 9-811
a.
u.
16
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TM 9-811
17
TM 9-811
734619 0-47-2
JC
18
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19
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TM 9-811
4. DATA.
a. Vehicle Specifications.
Cargo
Wrecker
151
Ponton
Dump
Wheelbase
(in.)
151
268
96
114
20
9.00x20
172
296%
96
114
20
9.00x20
151
Length, over-all
(in.)
291%
101
111
20
9.00x20
Width, over-all
(in.)
Height, over-all
(in.)
Wheel size
(in.)
20
Tire size
(in )
9.00x20
Tire tvDe .....,...,,..
Rib
Tread
Rib
Tread
Rib
Tread
Rib
Tread
Tread (center to center)
(front)
(in.)
73%
73%
73%
73%
Tread (center to center)
(rear} .........
(in.)
72%
18,400
26,400
60.7
72%
21,700
72%
18,800
TM 9-811
DESCRIPTI
ON Ah
ID TABUI
.ATED Dt
ITA
Maximum speeds in higl
in transfer:
Transmission in Isf . . .
Transmission in 2nd . .
Transmission in 3rd. .
Transmission in direct
Transmission in over-
drive
i range
Cargo
Wrecker
Ponton Dump
(mph)
(mph)
(mph)
(mph)
16
30
16
30
44
88
16 16
30 30
(mph)
. (deg)
40
37
46
40
37
46
40 40
Approach angle
37 37
46 46
Departure angle
. (deg)
Minimum turning radius,
Right
(ft in.)
(ft in.)
36-5
35-0
36-5
35-0
38-5 36-5
37-0 35-0
Left
Fording depth (height of
tail pipe
. . (in.)
24
24
24 24
Towing facilities:
Front (tow
hooks)
TM 9-811
d. Capacities.
Fuel tanks 60 gal
Engine crankcaserefill 16 qt
Cooling system 48 qt
Transmission with P.T.0 24 pt
Transmission without P.T.0 21 pt
Transfer 3 pt
Front axle differential 15 pt
Rear axle differential (2 differentials) each 7V2 pt
Winch 3V2 pt
Carburetor air cleaner 4 Vi pt
Engine crankcase breather % pt
Briggs and Stratton engine 1 pt
Kellogg compressor Vi pt
DeVilbiss compressor 1 pt
Wrecker transmission 8 pt
NOMENCLATURE TRUCK.PDNTDN.4TQNIHOBX6
SUPPLY ARM OR SERVICE
MAINTAINING VEHICLE ORDNANCE DEPT.
MAKE AND MODEL DIAMOND-T MODEL KSZffl
SERIAL NUMBER
GROSS WEIGHT
MAXIMUM PAYLOAD
MAXIMUM TRAILED LOAD
DATE OF DELIVERY
RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURER
OCTANE RATING OF GASOLINE
S.A.E. GRADE OF OIL BELOW 32" F.
I S.A.E. GRADE OF OIL ABOVE 32F.
1ENCLATURE TRUCK WRECKER, li TON , 6X6
SUPPLY ARM OR SERVICE
MAINTAINING VEHICLE OPDNANCE DEP1
MAXIMUM BOOM LOAD
RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURER
OCTANE RATING OF GASOLINE
S.A.E. GRADE OF OIL BELOW 31 f.
S.A.E. GRADE OF OIL ABOVE 32 F.
RE TRUCK. DUMP. 4 TON (HD6X6
OR SERVICE
VEHICLE ORDNANCE DEPT.
DEL DIAMOND-T MODEL
GROSS WEIGHT
MAXIMUM PAYLOAD
DATE OF DELIVERY
TENDED BY MANUFACTURER
.ATING OF GASOLINE
ADE OF OIL BELOW 32 F.
I S.A.E. GRADE OF OIL ABOVE 32F.
RA PD 303935
Figure 13Chassis Plates
22
TM 9-811
o.
MEAD MORRISON TAKE-OFF
SERIAL NUMBER
Civs StRlll uuf* unii. ijmJiSiN; Pans
MADE IN U S I
GAR WOOD INDUSTRIES INC.
DETROIT, MICHIGAN
WINCH P.T.O. PLATE
AIR COMPRESSOR PLATES
MFD. BY
ERNEST HOLMES CO.
CHATTANOOGA, TENN.
U. S. A.
MODEL No.
SERIAL No.
WRECKER PLATE
J IMPORTANT MAINTAIN OIL LEVEL BETWEEN
*m- '/, AND \ MARK ON GAUGE
OIL PRESSURE AT WORKING SPEED
FIRING ORDER 153624
DIAMOND T MOTOR CAR Co
CHICAGO. ILL
ENCINE PLATE
MEAD MORRISON WINCH
MODEL NO.
SERIAL NO,
GIVE MODS! AND SERIAL NUMBIRS
PATENT NUMDERS
1417349 I4787S6 1534538
14' Mh I SIS 400 I'lSblB*
GAR WOOD INDUSTRIES, ING.
DETROIT. MICHIGAN
WINCH PLATE
PUBLICATIONS APPLYING TO THIS VEHICLE
ORDNANCE PARTS LIST SNL G - 509
OPERATORS MANUAL TM 9-811
MAINTENANCE MANUAL TM9-1811A&B
PUBLICATION PLATE
RA PD 313907
Figure 14Serial Plates
23
TM 9-811
Section III
DRIVING CONTROLS AND OPERATION
Paragraph
Controls and cab equipment 5
Starting and warming up the engine 6
Operating the vehicle 7
Towing the vehicle 8
5. CONTROLS AND CAB EQUIPMENT (figs. 15 and 16).
a. General. The controls are employed according to the usual
automotive practice. The driver must become thoroughly familiar with
the location and use of all control devices and instruments before
attempting to operate the vehicle.'
b. Steering Wheel. The vehicle is steered by a conventional type
of steering mechanism.
c. Horn Button. A conventional push-button type of horn control
switch is located at the center of the steering wheel.
d. Warning Plate (fig. 17). Several plates which contain special
information and cautions to be observed in vehicle operation are
mounted on the dash inside the cab. The operator should read these
plates and become familiar with their content before operating the
vehicle.
e. Windshield Wiper. Conventional-type windshield wipers are
mounted at the top of each windshield glass. They are controlled by
valves at each end of the instrument panel.
f. Hand Control Valve. A hand control valve is mounted on the
steering post and is used to control air brakes on a trailed unit.
g. Windshield Wiper Control. Air control valves are mounted
at each end of the dash to control the windshield wipers.
h. Instrument Lights. Three instrument lights are arranged at
the top of the dash to illuminate the instruments for night driving.
These are controlled by a plunger-type switch mounted on the dash.
i. Main Light Switch. This switch, located at the top of the dash,
controls the complete lighting circuit. When the button is flush with the
dash, all of the lights are out. When pulled out against the latch stop,
the blackout lights come into service. With the latch depressed and the
button pulled to the second out position, all the service lights come into
operation. For day driving the stop lights only are in circuit with the
button pulled to the full-out position.
j. Tachometer. A tachometer, or engine revolution counter, is
provided to aid the driver in maintaining definite engine speeds, and in
intelligently changing gear ratios in the transmission and transfer case.
The tachometer has a set hand with a lock, which records the maximum
engine speed reached.
24
TM 9-811
k. Ammeter. A conventional-type ammeter is located near the
center of the dash. It is useful in checking operation of generator and
regulator.
1. Panel Light Switch. A plunger-type switch is mounted near the
center of the dash to control the instrument lights. It will not turn the
dash lights on unless the main light switch is in the second out position.
m. Front Battery Ammeter. An indicating ammeter (without
graduations) is mounted on the left side of the dash. It indicates when
the front battery (which does not register on the ammeter in the charg-
ing circuit) is not being charged.
n. Viscometer. A viscometer gage is mounted on the dash on the
right side of the instrument group. It indicates the condition of the
crankcase lubricant. If the viscosity is not normal on the gage after
the engine is thoroughly warmed up, it is an indication of an improper
grade of oil, a sludge condition, or dangerous crankcase dilution. NOTE:
Run engine at a speed slightly in excess of idling speed.
o. Speedometer. A conventional mileage recording speedometer
with a speed range of 60 miles per hour is used. It is located near the
center of the dash.
p. Temperature Gage. This gage is located above and to the
right of the ignition switch. It registers the operating temperature of
the engine, which should be 160F to 180F for good performance.
q. Hand Throttle Button. The throttle button, mounted at the
right of the choke, is used when starting or making adjustments on an
engine. It should be kept in idling position (flush with dash) during all
ordinary driving.
r. Oil Pressure Cage. An oil pressure gage is located at the center
of the dash and is an indicator of the efficiency of engine lubrication.
Oil pressure should not be less than 5 to 10 pounds at idling speeds and
not less than 25 pounds at running speeds.
8. Choke Button. A choke control button is mounted on the dash,
to the right of the ignition switch. The choke is used to assist in starting
the engine, especially when cold. Choking the engine results in an over-
rich mixture which washes lubricant from the cylinder walls and dilutes
the crankcase oil. For this reason the choke should be used only when
necessary.
t. Ignition Switch. A lever-operated ignition switch is located at
the center of the dash. It functions the same as the conventional key-
type ignition lock, except that a permanently mounted lever tumbler is
used, and no key is required.
u. Fuel Gage. An electric-type fuel gage is mounted on the dash
above and to the left of the ignition switch.
v. Spark Control. A manual control, mounted on the dash to the
left of the ignition switch, is provided to 'advance and retard the spark
as driving conditions warrant. The spark should be retarded with the
engine lugging, to eliminate spark knock.
w. Air Pressure Gage. This gage registers the air pressure (in
pounds per square inch) available for brake application. It provides a
convenient method of checking the operation of the compressor, and is
25 I
TM 9-811
A FIRE EXTINGUISHER
B STEERING WHEEL
C HORN BUTTON
D WINDSHIELD WIPER CONTROL
I WARNING PLATES
F DASH LAMP
6 BLACKOUT DRIVING LAMP SWITCH
H MAIN LIGHT SWITCH
I FUEL GAGE
J AMMETER
K FRONT BATTERY AMMETER
L PANEL LIGHTS
M TEMPERATURE GAGE
N SPEEDOMETER
O VISCOSITY GAGE
P WINCH CAUTION PLATE
(Hoist Caution Plate on Dump Truck)
Q COOLING SYSTEM PLATE
R THROTTLE CONTROL
Figure 15Instruments and
S CHOKE CONTROL
T IGNITION SWITCH
U ACCELERATION PEDAL
V COWL VENTILATOR HANDLE
W BRAKE PEDAL
X TRANSMISSION LEVER
T STARTER BUTTON
Z POWER TAKE-OFF SHIFT LEVER
A A HAND BRAKE VALVE
AB AIR PRESSURE GAGE
AC TACHOMETER
AD TACHOMETER LOCK
AE DIMMER SWITCH
AF SPARK CONTROL
AG OIL PRESSURE GAGE
AH CLUTCH PEDAL
Al TRANSFER SHIFT LEVER
AJ TRANSFER DECLUTCH LEVER
AK PARKING BRAKE LEVER
ControlsOpen Cab
26
TM 9-811
5-6
as much a warning signal as the buzzer. IMPORTANT: Do not drive
the vehicle with less than 70 pounds air pressure. If the gage should
read below 50 pounds pressure with the vehicle in motion, stop at once
and ascertain cause of low air pressure.
x. Accelerator Pedal. The accelerator pedal is of the conven-
tional type, and is located on the toeboard. It is operated with the right
foot, and controls the speed of .the engine by regulating the amount of
gasoline fed to it.
y. Brake Pedal. The brake pedal is located on the toeboard, and
controls the air valve in the air braking system. The pedal should be
depressed gradually to avoid slamming on the brakes.
z. Dimmer Switch. The dimmer switch, located on the toeboard
to the left of the clutch, is operated with the left foot, and controls the
selection of the upper or lower headlamp beam. Pushing down on the
switch changes from one selection to the other.
aa. Clutch Pedal. A conventional clutch pedal is located on the
toeboard. When it is depressed the engine is disengaged from the trans-
mission, making it possible to shift gears. Do not ride with foot on the
clutch pedal as it will cause excessive wear on the clutch facings.
ab. Transmission Lever. The transmission lever is located in the
middle of the cab floor, and is used to select the various gear ratios pro-
vided in the transmission according to the shifting diagram above the
dash. The lever controls this selection ( 5 speeds forward and 1 reverse )
through a set of shifting forks and rails.
ac. Transmission Power Take-off Shift Lever. The power take-
off lever is located in back of the transmission lever, and is used to
engage the take-off gears with the transmission for winch operation. As
illustrated on the shifting plate, the power take-off has a high and a low
range, a reverse and two neutral positions.
ad. Hand Brake Lever. The hand brake lever is mounted inside
the cab and controls the disk brake in the drive line. It should be used
as a parking brake or in emergencies.
ae. Declutching Lever. The declutching lever is located behind
the transmission lever, and is used to engage or disengage the declutch-
ing unit to the front axle drive.
af. Transfer Case Shift Lever. The transfer case shift lever is
located behind the transmission lever, and is used to change the gear
ratio in the transfer case according to the positions shown on the shifting
plate.
ag. Cranking Motor Switch. A cranking motor switch is located
on the floorboard in such a position as to be conveniently reached with
the right heel.
ah. Blackout Driving Lamp Switch. A plunger-type switch is
mounted on the dash next to the main light switch, and is used to control
the blackout driving lamp.
6. STARTING AND WARMING UP THE ENGINE.
a. General. Good driving is perhaps the most important requisite
for long and satisfactory service of any automotive vehicle. A real
driver is more than a machine with one hand on the transmission lever
TM
9-811
AC
A STEERING WHEEL
B HORN BUTTON
C WARNING PLATE
D WINDSHIELD WIPER
I GLOVE COMPARTMENT
F REAR VIEW MIRROR
0 CAUTION PLATE
H WINDSHIELD SECTOR ARM
1 HAND AIR VALVE
J WINDSHIELD WIPER CONTROL
K INSTRUMENT LIGHTS
L MAIN LIGHT SWITCH
M TACHOMETER
N AMMETER
O PANEL LIGHT SWITCH
P FRONT BATTERY AMMETER
Q INSTRUMENT LIGHT
R VISCOMETER
S WINDSHIELD WIPER CONTRO
T SPEEDOMETER
U TEMPERATURE GAGE
V HAND THROTTLE BUTTON
W OIL PRESSURE GAGE
X CHOKE BUTTON
Y IGNITION SWITCH
Z FUEL GAGE
AA SPARK CONTROL BUTTON
AB AIR PRESSURE GAGE
AC ACCELERATOR PEDAL
AD BRAKE PEDAL
AI DIMMER SWITCH
AF CLUTCH PEDAL
AC TRANSMISSION LEVER
AH POWER TAKE-OFF SHIFT LEVER
AI HAND BRAKE LEVER
AJ DECLUTCHING LEVER
AK TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LEVER
AL NIGHT LATCH BUTTON
AM RFMOTE CONTROL HANDLE
RA PD 303943
Figure 16Instruments and ControlsClosed Cab
28
TM 9-811
6-7
and the other on the steering wheel. He must be able to think and feel
his truck. He must recognize any unnatural condition such as vibrations,
scrapings, knocks, clicks, sluggishness, etc.
b. Preliminary Instructions. Before the engine is started, make
the prestarting inspection outlined in paragraph 21. To start the engine,
proceed as follows:
(1) Place transmission lever in neutral position.
( 2 ) Set hand brake lever.
(3 ) If the engine is cold, crack hand throttle about % open, and pull
choke button until it is half open. These steps may not be necessary
when the engine is warm. If it is very cold, it may be necessary to choke
the engine more.
(4) Turn on ignition.
(5) Push clutch pedal to floor and hold there until after engine is
started.
(6) Press starter button.
(7) Release the starter button the moment the engine begins to
run. Never press the starter button for more than 10 to 15 seconds at
a time. If the engine has not started after two such trials, allow the
starter to cool for one minute. If the engine fails to start, or makes a
false start, do not press the starter button again until the engine has
come to a complete stop. Failure to observe this precaution, especially
after a false start, may result in a broken starter motor drive housing.
(8) After the engine has started, slowly release the clutch. Adjust
the hand throttle to prevent the engine from racing. As soon as the
engine runs smoothly, push the choke control. Excessive use of the
choke will cause dilution of the engine oil and probable engine failure.
During the engine warm-up period, operate the engine at 800 to 900
revolutions per minute as indicated by the tachometer. Idling is per-
missible for only very short periods of time, not to exceed five minutes.
7. OPERATING THE VEHICLE.
a. Starting under Normal Conditions. After the engine has been
thoroughly warmed up and checked for satisfactory operation, the
vehicle may be started by following the steps listed below. NOTE: Be
sure that sufficient air pressure (70 pounds per square inch as shown on
dash gage) has been built up to provide adequate braking power (figs.
15 and 16).
(1) Push clutch pedal to the toeboard to completely disengage the
clutch.
(2) Disengage the front axle drive by shifting the declutch lever
as shown in the shifting diagram. (When extra traction is needed, en-
gage front axle.)
(3) Shift transfer case lever into proper position. (Transfer case
should be in low when heavily loaded, or when starting on a grade, and
in high when unloaded or when starting on level ground.)
(4) Shift the transmission lever into first speed.
29
TM 9-811
, WINCH CAPACITY 15DDQ POUNDS
ON FIRST LAYER OF ROPE IN LOW SPEED OF TAKE-OFF.
LINE SPEEDS REQUIRE THAT WHEN THIS WINCH IS USED TO
ASSIST THIS VEHICLE WITH WHEELS DRIVING,THE TAKE-OFF
SHOULD BE IN [QW SPEED, TRANSMISSION IN |_OW GEAR.
WITH TRANSFER CASE IN LOW RANGE.
VEHICLE AND WINCH GUARANTEE REQUIRE THAT THE WINCH
SHALL BE OPERATED AT ALL TIMES AS REQUIRED BY
APPROPRIATE REGULATIONS.
GAR WOOD INDUSTRIES, Inc. DETROIT, MICH,
TO DRAIN COOLING SYSTEM
TO COMPLETELY DRAIN THE
COOLING SYSTEM, OPEN
PET COCKS AT;
II) RADIATOR LOWER FITTING
(2) LEFT SIDE OF CYLINDER
IF ENGINE IS OPERATED FOR
ANY LENGTH OF TIME AT A SPEED
GREATER THAN 2300 RPM. AS
SHOWN BY ENGINE SPEED
RECORDER ON INSTRUMENT
PANEL. THE ENGINE WILL BE
SERIOUSLY DAMAGED
o;
- WARNING -
BUZZER OPERATION IS AN
INDICATION THAT THE
MUST IMMEDIATELY BE E
TO A STOP AND THE C,
THE LOSS OF BRA
PRESSURE DETERMINED
HOIST CAUTION
ENGINE SPEED MUST NOT EXCEED 1000 R.P.M.
WHEN HOIST IS OPERATED
BLOCK ELEVATED BODY WHEN SERVICING
RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURER:
GRADE OF OIL ABOVE 8O F. OE SAE 3O
GRADE OF OIL 1O F. TO 8O F. OE SAE 1O
GRADE OF OIL BELOW 1O F. OH HYDRAULIC OIL
FILL HOIST TO LEVEL OF FILLER OPENING WITH
BODY FULLY ELEVATED
Figure 17-
Jnstrifction Plates
RA PD 313908
30
TM 9-811
(5) Release the hand brake.
(6) Push down on the accelerator pedal to speed up the engine and
at the same time release the clutch gradually. Feed sufficient gasoline
to the engine to insure a smooth even start. Do not race the engine.
b. Gearshift (Transmission) (figs. 18, 19 and 20).
(1) After the vehicle is started, to increase speed it is necessary
to shift through the transmission to the high position.
(2) As the truck increases speed, release the accelerator pedal,
disengage the clutch and move the transmission lever into neutral, and
RA PD 303949
Figure 18Shifting PlateCargo and Ponton Vehicles
then into the second speed position. Then release the clutch pedal
smoothly, and at the same time accelerate the engine.
(3) Repeat this for each step in the transmission until it is in driv-
ing gear. Shifting should be accomplished with a smooth, positive, yet
unhurried movement of the transmission lever.
(4) When it is necessary to reverse the truck, stop truck and shift
into reverse position in the transmission.
( 5 ) It is very important that every shift made be complete, with the
gears fully in mesh. Incomplete shifting leads to uneven gear tooth wear
31
TM
9-811
and expensive repair. With a little experience the driver will feel the
poppets engage when gears are completely in mesh.
(6) It is good driving practice to drop a step in the transmission
before the vehicle loses too much speed and the engine starts to latx"
It is easiest to double-clutch when shifting into a lower gear as follov>_.
(a) Disengage clutch and release accelerator pedal.
(b) Move transmission lever into neutral position.
RA PD 303950
Figure 19Shifting PlateWrecker Vehicles
(c) Release clutch pedal and accelerate engine to synchronize it
with vehicle speed.
(d) Disengage the clutch once again and shift into lower gear.
(e) Engage clutch smoothly while accelerating the engine. IMPOR-
TANT: Never force transmission lever into position or shift into lower
gears at high engine speeds.
c. Gearshift (Transfer Case). It is good practice to operate the
vehicle in high range over hard-surfaced terrain when there is easy
rolling. When there are extreme grades, or when the conditions are so
difficult as to require high traction, the low range should be utilized,
32
TM 9-811
especially when heavily loaded, to help the engine to "hold on" in the
main transmission. NOTE: The shift from high to low speed should
never be attempted unless the vehicle is standing still, or being oper-
ated at low speeds.
(1) Disengage the clutch and move the shifting lever to a neutral
tuition.
5^(2) Release clutch and accelerate engine.
(." Disengage the clutch again, and move the shift lever into the
low position.
(4) Release clutch and accelerate engine to synchronize with
vehicle speed.
(5) IMPORTANT: Shift smoothly, never forcing the shifting
lever, as a sudden shock of gear engagement is likely to damage the
transmitting parts. The shift from low to high may be accomplished at
any speed, whether the vehicle is in motion or standing still. Follow
the same procedure outlined above except shift into high in the third
step.
d. Use of the Tachometer in Gear Ratio Selection.
(1) The tachometer is a valuable aid to intelligent gear ratio
selections in the transmission. Best performance will be obtained with
the engine operating between 1800 and 2300 revolutions per minute.
If conditions are such that the vehicle cannot maintain its speed in the
gear ratio being used, shift down in the transmission to keep the engine
operating between the recommended limits. When shifting up in the
transmission, do not select a higher ratio until after the engine speed
reaches 1800 revolutions per minute.
(2) The figures in the table (fig. 21) are based on a maximum
engine speed of 2300 revolutions per minute and hence indicate the
difference in the readings obtained on the tachometer and speedometer.
The tachometer indicates at any time the speed at which the engine
is turning over, and might be considered as a measure of the amount
of work the engine is doing. Note that the engine can develop its maxi-
mum torque and peak horsepower for any gear selection in the trans-
mission or transfer case. The speedometer on the other hand indicates
only the linear speed, or distance the vehicle moves per unit of time.
; (3) Experienced drivers use the tachometer rather than the
speedometer in vehicle operation, especially in the low gears. In that
> way they can get the most out of their power plant by selecting the
proper gear ratios to permit the engine to operate in its most effective
range, between 1800 and 2300 revolutions per minute.
e. Cautions.
(1) In shifting from one speed ratio to another, do not skip positions.
(2) Do not ride the clutch. The driver's foot should rest on the
clutch only when he is operating it.
(3) Do not engage the clutch suddenly. A sudden engagement is
injurious to the mechanism and may stall the engine.
(4) Disengage the clutch fully, to avoid gear damage and shifting
difficulties.
734619 0-47-3 33
TM
9-811
f. Front Axle Drive. The front axle drive should be engaged
before the vehicle leaves hard-surfaced roads to negotiate hazardous
conditions. Driven by all wheels, a vehicle can traverse mud, snow, ice
or sand which it might not negotiate with the rear drive only. The front
axle engagement is controlled by the declutch lever in the cab as indi-
cated on the shifting diagrams (figs. 18, 19 and 20).
(1) ENGAGING. If the engagement cannot be made readily, try
shifting while turning the vehicle to right or left. The gears involved
DUMP BODY
P.T.O. LEVER
USE ONLY IN
iNDJORrjROjGEAR
TRANSMISSION
DUMP HOIST
SHIFT LEVER
RANGE DECLUTCH BRAKE
HIGH DISENGAGED OFF
DISENGAGED
RANGE DECLUTCH BRAKE
LOW ENGAGED ON
DISENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE WHEN OPERATING ON DRY HARD SURFACED ROADS
RA PD 303951
Figure 20Shifting PlateDump Vehicles
turn at slightly different speeds while the vehicle negotiates the turn,
the difference in their speeds permitting them to engage. Do not force
the shifting lever.
(2) DISENGAGING. It is generally more difficult to disengage the
front axle drive than to engage it. Action is aided by exerting moderate
pressure on the shift lever while the vehicle is rolling slowly in first or
reverse gear. Avoid sudden shock to the driving parts when in low gear.
Guard carefully against engaging the clutch suddenly at any time, and
especially if the vehicle rolls backward, no matter how slowly.
34
TM 9-811
(3) CAUTIONS. If there is any tendency for the vehicle to roll
backwards, block the wheels before attempting to start, and then
engage the clutch and accelerator carefully. If it is not convenient to
block the wheels, and should conditions permit, by all means allow the
vehicle to coast back, under control of the brakes, to a standstill before
attempting to start forward. Failure to observe these simple precautions
will result in snapping of drive shaft gears and shafts.
(4) It is not possible to drive in the low range with the front axle
declutched because of stops on the transfer case and declutch control
levers. When in the high range, it is possible to engage or disengage the
front axle at will. This is advantageous under easy rolling conditions
where the front drive is not required.
g. Stopping. This vehicle is equipped with air brakes providing
exceptionally great braking capacity. A person inexperienced with this
type of brakes must exercise caution until quite familiar with them, for
his own as well as his passengers' comfort and safety.
(1) Release accelerator pedal and depress the brake pedal gradu-
ally to apply the brakes smoothly.
(2) When the truck's speed is down to from ten to fifteen miles per
hour, disengage the clutch and shift the transmission into neutral.
(3) When the vehicle is completely stopped, release clutch pedal,
set hand brake and release brake pedal.
(4) When another unit is trailed behind this vehicle, the air lines
are arranged so that when the foot pedal is depressed the brakes are
applied on both the truck and the trailed unit. However, the hand brake
valve will operate only the trailer brakes.
(5 ) Hard application of the brakes should cause all wheels to lock;
however, note that the maximum retarding effect occurs just before
they lock. Intermittent application will reduce wear of brake linings and
drums. Application should be gradual with just enough force to accom-
plish the desired result.
(6) In anticipating a stop, make full use of the engine braking
effect, disengaging the clutch in time to avoid stalling the engine. When
descending hills, let the engine brake by using the proper gear ratio and
applying the brakes from time to time to prevent over-speeding the
engine. Do not turn off the ignition. The engine speed when descending
a hill should be no greater than the speed necessary for ascending the
hill at the same transmission gear ratio. On steep hills, engage the proper
gear before the vehicle is started down the hill. Attempting to shift
gears after the vehicle has started down a steep slope may result in a
runaway vehicle.
( 7 ) After passing through water, set the brakes slightly and operate
the vehicle for a short distance until the brakes are dry.
h. Stopping Engine. The engine may be stopped by turning the
ignition switch to the left or into the "OFF" position. In the event that
35
TM 9-811
7-8
the engine is excessively overheated, allow it to idle until a normal
temperature (160F-180F) is reached before shutting it off.
i. Traction Aids. Chains should always be carried with the
vehicle. Keep them in serviceable condition to permit installation with
a minimum of delay. Remove them promptly when they are no longer
necessary in order to prevent unnecessary damage to tires and roads.
Apply the chains before the vehicle becomes mired. Install them prop-
erly with the fastenings in correct relation to the direction of rotation
so that the chains will not be lost. Fairly loose adjustment gives better
traction and less tire wear than tight adjustment. Install chains on all
wheels.
8. TOWING THE VEHICLE.
a. Towing to Start Vehicle. If mechanical difficulties make it
impossible to start the vehicle with the starting motor, this can generally
Transmission
Selection
MAXIMUM PERMISSIBLE ROAD SPEEDS
Transfer Case
in Low
Transfer Case
in High
1 it or Reverse
2 M.P.H.
4 M.P.H.
2nd
4 M.P.H.
8 M.P.H.
3rd
9 M.P.H.
16 M.P.H.
Direct
17 M.P.H.
30 M.P.H.
Overdrive
22 M.P.H.
40 M.P.H.
RA PD 303952
Figure 21Table of Road Speeds
be accomplished by towing the vehicle. Run a chain or cable over the
tow hooks on the front bumper, and attach it securely to the towing
vehicle. Shift the transfer into low range and the transmission into
direct in the stalled vehicle. When the towing truck starts, the driver of
the towed vehicle should disengage the clutch until starting speed is
reached. When the vehicles are moving from 10 to 15 miles per hour,
the clutch should be released slowly to engage the engine. When the
engine starts the clutch should be released, and the hand throttle pulled
out far enough to idle the engine at 800 to 900 revolutions per minute
as shown on the tachometer. The driver of the towed vehicle should
then shift the transmission to neutral, and signal the driver ahead to
stop. After the vehicles are stopped, the tow chain may be disconnected.
When a vehicle is started in this manner, always report it to the proper
authority.
36
TM 9-811
b. Caution. The driver should always note the reading of the air
pressure gage before his vehicle is towed. If less than 70-pounds pres-
sure is indicated, the air brakes are not to be depended upon to stop
the vehicle. Check the condition of the hand brake, and if it is satis-
factory the vehicle may be stopped with this device. If air pressure is
below 70 pounds per square inch and the hand brake is in poor adjust-
ment, no attempt should be made to start the vehicle by towing it.
e. Towing Disabled Vehicle. If a vehicle is disabled with no
damage to the running gear or the steering apparatus, it may be towed
in the same manner as prescribed for towing to start a vehicle. (See sub-
paragraph a above). Be sure that the vehicle to be towed has brakes.
If the brakes are inoperative or the running gear is damaged it will be
necessary to use a wrecker to tow the vehicle, making use of a V-type
tow bar (par. 9 h).
37
TM 9-811
Section IV
OPERATION OF AUXILIARY EQUIPMENT
Paragraph
Winch 9
Wrecker 10
Air compressor 11
Dump truck 12
Fire extinguisher 13
RA-PD 304043
Figure 22Winch Clutch Poppet Handle
9. WINCH.
a. General. A front-mounted winch is used on all cargo, wrecker
and ponton vehicles. The winch is power-driven and may be used for
pulling, hoisting or lowering. The winch is power-driven through a
three-speed power take-off mounted on the side of the vehicle trans-
mission. The driving torque is transferred from the power take-off
through a propeller shaft with universal and slip joints to the winch
38
TM
9-811
drive shaft. The winch cable is 300 feet long, and has a safe pull capac-
ity of 15,000 pounds on the first layer of cable.
b. Operation. The winch is operated from inside the cab. It has
an automatic safety brake which will sustain the load while the power
take-off is being shifted. Winch pulling speeds are based on a maxi-
mum engine speed of 1000 revolutions per minute, which should not be
exceeded in winch operation, as excessive speed will result in strains
and failures of parts. Note the instructions on the winch caution plate
in the cab (fig. 18).
Figure 23Winch Power Take-off Shift Lever
(1) HOOKING ON.
(a) Disengage the sliding jaw clutch by shifting the poppet handle
mounted on the winch (fig. 22).
(b) Pull the cable off the drum by hand. The drag brake will keep
the drum from spinning. Care should be exercised to avoid kinking the
cable.
(c) Run the cable out to the load and hook on. Take care not to
damage cable when hooking on. It is best to wrap a chain or cable
around the load and to attach the winch cable to it.
(2) PULLING.
(a) Engage the sliding clutch, making sure that the poppets are
locked.
39
TM 9-811
(b) Start the engine, depress the clutch, shift the transmission into
neutral, and shift the power take-off into high or low speed. See vehicle
shifting plate for power take-off lever positions (figs. 18, 19, 20 and 23).
(c) Release the clutch gradually and accelerate engine to pick up
the load. Do not jerk load or exceed 1000 engine revolutions per
minute.
(3 ) STOPPING. To stop pulling it is necessary to release the clutch
and to shift the power take-off into neutral.
(4) LOWERING OR REVERSING. To reverse the winch, it is neces-
sary to disengage the clutch, slip the take-off lever into reverse and to
release the clutch pedal. When reversing it is not necessary to accel-
erate the engine.
c. Winding Speeds. The power take-off has a high and low gear
ratio for winding in, permitting two different winding speeds. Use the
high-speed gears for handling light loads, and the low-speed gears for
heavy loads. Never race the engine when winching, especially when
pulling a light load or winding in a rope.
d. Winding Cable. The cable should never be wound on the
drum without some load on it. If no load is available, the rope should
be properly attached to an anchor or tree and the vehicle pulled for-
ward by the winch. A very light pressure on the vehicle brake will
insure a neat and tight wind. It is important that the first layer of rope
goes on in order. If necessary, it should be hammered or pushed into
place with a block of wood to insure the first layer being closely
wrapped. It is also necessary to see to it that each additional layer
starts back across the drum properly. In case of emergency where
there is no time to exercise this care, the rope should be wound onto
the drum as well as possible and then should be rewound at the first
opportunity.
e. When Winch Is Not in Use.
(1) Power take-off must be in neutral.
(2) Power take-off shift lever lock must be in place to prevent the
power take-off from being thrown into gear accidentally (fig. 23).
(3 ) Winch sliding clutch must be in mesh with drum clutch so that
drum will not turn due to vibration or weight of chains.
(4) End of cable must be securely wrapped around bumper hooks
so that it will not come loose and drag.
f. Shear Pins. The front universal joint of the winch propeller
shaft is connected to the winch drive shaft by means of a shear pin. It
is made of a special material so that it will shear before parts fail when
the winch is overloaded. NOTE: Never substitute other rivets, bolts
or pins for the standard shear pin, as to do so may result in damage to
equipment or personnel. When a shear pin fails, remove the broken
parts and install a new one. (Extra shear pins will be found in vehicle
tool kit.) Attempt to correct overload before again operating winch.
g. Snatch Block. A snatch block is provided for use in winch
operations where the load is very heavy, or where low pulling speeds
are desirable with a high engine torque. When using the snatch block,
40
TM 9-811
9-10
the cable should be run through the block sheave free of twists or kinks,
and the free end of the cable brought back to the vehicle bumper hook.
The snatch block hook is then attached to the load, and winching is
accomplished as already described.
10. WRECKER.
a. General. Twin boom wrecker equipment of 5-ton capacity
(10-ton capacity when snatch block is used) is installed on all 4-ton,
6x6 wrecker vehicles. The equipment is made up of a wrecker frame
mounted on the chassis which supports the wrecker transmission, the
winches and the booms. The transmission has a forward and a reverse
speed, and is so arranged that it can drive the winches separately or
simultaneously. The winches are each provided with 200 feet of cable.
The booms are on pivots so that they may be swung out to a position at
right angles to the vehicle and may be raised or lowered as desired.
A telescoping outboard brace leg is mounted on each side so that these
may be swung out to give the vehicle greater stability in wrecking oper-
ations. The necessary anchors, blocks, tow bars, clamps, etc., are fur-
nished with the vehicle (fig. 24).
b. Brace Legs.
(1) The two brace legs are tubular steel telescoping in design, the
upper and outer portion being pinned to a swivel mounted on the end
of the wrecker frame. The lower or sliding member is equipped with
a steel foot, to which a chain is attached. The chain, with a grab hook
at the free end, serves to limit movement of the brace leg when in use,
and to prevent kicking out under load. In traveling position the brace
leg is secured in a bracket welded to base of wrecker frame. The sliding
portion is secured in its nested position by a spring pin near the bottom
of the outer tube which passes through a corresponding hole in the inner
or sliding tube.
(2) To place the brace leg in position for operation, operator
should lift it by the handle on the foot clear of carrying bracket and
draw spring pin, allowing sliding portion to move out. Swing brace leg
in direction of load, and carry out towards the load as far as is neces-
sary, dropping brace leg foot to the ground and locking pin in upper-
half so tha,t the inner portion cannot slide and the two sections become
a single stiff-leg. Tie the chain to loop in the base of the wrecker frame.
(3) The brace leg on the load side only of the wrecker should be
used, as if the one on the far side from the load is also lowered, the strain
of the pull on the vehicle will tip it towards the load, and the brace leg
on far side will tend to slip in towards the wrecker, so that when strain
of pull is slacked, the wrecker would not return to its normal position,
but would be cocked up by the brace legs.
(4 ) After operation is complete, raise brace leg and replace in hold-
ing bracket before moving vehicle.
c. Operation (fig. 25).
(1) To release cable, winch drum is thrown out of gear by means
of a handle controlling a sliding pinion which meshes with the bull gear.
A backlash brake prevents cable unwinding when there is no pull on
41
TM 9-811
10
A TOW BAR
B STOWAGE BOX
C CABLES
D BOOM SHEAVES
E BOOMS
F SPARE TIRES
G MAST SHEAVES
H SPOT LIGHTS
I CRANE
J AIR COMPRESSOR
K BRACE LEGS
L WINCHES
M WRECKER TRANSMISSION
N ACETYLENE TANK SUPPORT
O TRANSMISSION DRIVE CHAIN
P OXYGEN TANK SUPPORT
Q CONTROL HANDLES
R BRACE LEG LOCK PIN
5 BRACE LEG CHAIN
T BOOM DRUM RATCHET AND PAWL
RA PD 304045
Figure 24Wrecker Equipment
42
TM 9-811
10
the line. When cable is released it may be slacked sufficiently to unhook
from loops in back of wrecker body so that it will be free for work at
back of truck, or to swing with the boom when the latter is unlocked for
rigging in position for work at an alongside position.
(2 ) Figure 25 identifies operating mechanism. The cable backlash
brake loop is shown in brake applied position. Tension on the cable
straightens it and, by pulling the loop into a vertical position, releases
the brake through an eccentric.
(3) To free cable drum when running out the cable, the pinion
shift lever is pushed in, and pulled out when it is desired to again
engage the drum with the power mechanism.
(4) The booms are raised or lowered manually by the hand oper-
ating crank on the end of the ratchet wheel shaft. The same crank may
be used on the cable drum when tightening cable for traveling.
(5 ) The power operation of the winding (cable ) drums can be con-
trolled from either side, there being two handles on each side. The
outer handles control the near drums, while the inner handles control
the drums on the far side of the wrecker. The inner handles are also
equipped with a sleeve which can be twisted to accelerate or decelerate
the engine, similar to the throttle control on a motorcycle.
(6) APPLYING POWER (fig. 26).
(a) Shift transfer case lever into neutral.
(b) Shift transmission into direct speed, as normal operations can
be carried out in this gear. All the speeds in the transmission may be
used in wrecker operation except overdrive and reverse.
(c) Engage transfer case power take-off by pulling up the lever at
the lower left of the control levers in cab, to engaged position as shown
in figure 26.
(d) The chain drive connecting the power take-off with the wrecker
transmission main shaft is now in operation. To apply power to the
cable drums for pulling or lowering, the load operator should stand on
side nearest load. The control handles are held in neutral by a heavy
spring so that as soon as pressure is released they return to neutral,
stopping movement of drum and cable, the load being held by self-
locking brake on worm shaft. To raise load, bear down on handle
(fig. 25). To lower load, raise up on handle. Be sure that these shifts
are made complete to prevent faulty engagement of the transmission.
Speed of haul can be controlled by sleeve throttle control as previously
described.
d. Cautions.
(1) Never run engine over 1800 revolutions per minute when
operating wrecker. Never race the engine, especially when wrecker is
operating without a load or with a very light load.
(2) Always use moderate speeds when pulling heavy loads until
the load starts to move.
(3) When pulling over rough ground where possible use crowbars
to ease load over rocks or other obstructions.
43
TM 9-811
10
A BRACE LEG
B BOOM
C HAND OPERATING CRANK
D BOOM DRUM CABLE
E BOOM DRUM RATCHET
F BOOM DRUM PAWL
G PAWL SPRING
H BRACE LEG CHAIN LOOP
I BRACE LEG REST
J R.H. WINCH CONTROLS
K L.H. WINCH CONTROLS
L BOOM HEEL SWIVEL
M ROLLER CHAIN
N PINION SHIFT HANDLE
O SERVICE DRUM
P BRACE LEG
Q BACKLASH BRAKE LOOP
R WRECKER FRAME
RA PD 304051
Figure 25Wrecker Operating Mechanism
44
TM 9-811
10
(4) Whenever possible to turn a wreck on its wheels this should
be done as early in the operation as possible.
( 5 ) Watch the cables to see they do not chafe on sharp edges.
(6) Keep cables free of kinks.
(7) Anchor lines must always be at least as strong as a service or
hauling line.
(8) Cables should always be wound tight on drums. Wherever
possible wind them up under load.
RA PD 304052
Figure 26Wrecker Cab Controls
e. Safety Rings on Body Bolster (fig. 27).
(1) When the wrecker equipment is not in use, the ends of the
cables should be hooked to the safety rings on the rear bolster of the
body. These rings are designed so that if an excess tension is placed on
the cables, the safety ring strap will open up and release the ring before
damaging the body bolster.
f. Stowing Cable.
(1) In order to secure the proper tension on the cables when not in
use, the truck transmission should be placed in one of the lower gears
to slow down the cable speed and then by means of the winch-operating
45
TM 9-811
10-11
levers, the cable should be wound up until the backlash brake loop is
moved forward until there is only Vi-inch to 3/4-inch bend in the cable
from top sheave to drum. This backlash brake loop serves as an excel-
lent gage for the cable tension, and is in clear view of the operator.
(2) It is necessary that these cables be kept under a slight tension
to prevent up-and-down movement of the booms on rough roads.
11. AIR COMPRESSOR (figs. 28 and 29).
a. Description. An independent air compressor unit is mounted
on the wrecker body for use in tire inflation. The unit consists of a belt-
Figure 27Rings on Body Bolster
driven compressor, a gasoline engine, an air reservoir, an automatic
cut-off switch, a check valve, a safety valve and a pressure gage. The
cut-off switch automatically shuts off the engine when the reservoir
pressure reaches 150 pounds per square inch. The check valve pre-
vents air in the reservoir from flowing back when the compressor stops.
b. Operating Suggestions.
(1) BELT TENSION. The belt should be kept in proper adjustment
at all times. When adjusting belts be sure pulleys are properly lined up.
Belts should be just tight enough to prevent slippage. Heating of motor
pulley indicates slipping.
47
11
AIR
TM 9-811
AIR CLEANER
COMPRESSOR
RA PD 304056
STARTING HANDLE
Figure 28Air Compressor UnitKellogg
TM 9-811
11
STARTING HANDLE
AIR CLEANER
AIR
COMPRESSOR
FUEL TANK
RA PD 304057
Figure 29Air Compressor UnitDe Vilbiss
48
TM 9-811
11-12
(2) DRAINING CONDENSATION. Open the screen chamber drain
and check valve drain every day while the compressor is running to
blow out moisture which has condensed in the pipe and tubing.
(3 ) KEEP THE MOTOR AND COMPRESSOR CLEAN. See that no dirt
or water enter when adding oil or gasoline. Always wipe off the gaso-
line cap and oil filler plugs, as well as around them, before refilling.
(4) EXHAUST TUBING. Water is condensed in the exhaust after it
cools off. For this reason, after stopping motor, place exhaust tube so
that water cannot drain into exhaust port of motor to corrode the
mechanical parts.
c. Starting Air Compressor Unit.
(1) See that both the compressor and the engine are properly lubri-
cated, and that there is gasoline in the fuel tank.
(2) Open check valve drain to relieve the back pressure on the
compressor to assist in starting.
(3) Choke engine and pull quickly on starter lever three or four
times to prime the engine.
(4) After motor is primed, open choke about halfway and again
pull on starter lever to start motor. After motor is started, close check
valve drain to pump air into reservoir tank.
(5) As the motor warms up, adjust the choke until the motor oper-
ates smoothly. Use the choke in the same way that the choke on an
automobile is used.
(6) To start the motor shortly after having stopped it by choking,
and while it is still warm, pull the starter lever three or four times with-
out choking. If it does not start, prime as explained above. A warm
motor does not require as much priming as a cold one.
( 7 ) If the motor fails to start after a reasonable number of trials,
report to the proper authority.
(8) To stop unit, press the spring clip against the spark plug to
short the ignition circuit.
12. DUMP TRUCK (fig. 30).
a. General. The dump body is attached to a hoist subframe by
means of hinges at the rear and is elevated by a power-driven hydraulic
arm type hoist located under it. Pressure is delivered to the hoist cylin-
der by a hydraulic pump driven from a drive shaft connected to a power
take-off on the top of the transfer. The body is of all-steel construction
and has a capacity of 4 cubic yards. A stop chain is provided to pre-
vent overdumping and damage to equipment.
h. Controls.
(1) Power hoist controls are installed in the cab as shown in fig-
ure 31. Instructions for operating these controls are shown in figure 20.
(2) POWER TAKE-OFF LEVER. The dump body power take-off
lever has two positions, namely, "engaged" and "disengaged." When it
is pulled up to-the engaged position, power from the engine is trans-
mitted through drive line from the transfer power take-off to the hoist
734619 O - 47 4 49
50
12
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TM 9-811
12
pump. NOTE: It is important that the operator keep the power take-
off disengaged when the hoist is not being operated to prevent damage
to the pump. Dump trucks are being equipped with a warning device
which emits a loud rattling noise when the truck is in motion with the
power take-off lever engaged. When this noise is heard the operator
should stop the truck and disengage the power take-off before proceed-
ing. Vehicles in early production were not equipped with this device
and so special care must be exercised to be sure the lever is always in
the disengaged position when the vehicle is in motion.
XV
Figure 31Hoist Controls
RA PD 304058
(3) PUMP HOIST LEVER. This lever may be shifted to any one of
three different positions, namely, "raise," "hold" or "lower." With the
lever in the "raise" position, the pump valves are so arranged that fluid
is pumped into the cylinder and the body is raised. (When the body
reaches the limit of its travel it automatically stops.) When the lever
is in the "hold" position, the body remains suspended in whatever posi-
tion it was in when the lever was shifted. With the lever in the "lower"
position, the fluid is forced out of the cylinder by the weight of the body,
and the body comes down.
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(4) TAIL GATE CONTROL. The tail gate is controlled by a lever
located at the left front corner of the body. When the lever is against
the body, the tail gate hooks are locked, but when it is away from the
body, the tail gate hooks are open and the lower end of the tail gate is
free to swing out (fig. 40).
c. Operation.
(1) Release tail gate locking lever. Start engine if it is not running.
Depress clutch pedal. Shift transfer to neutral. Shift transmission to
second or third speed.
Figure 32Tailgate Arranged for Spreading
(2) Engage the dump power take-off. Release the clutch pedal.
Move the dump hoist lever forward and accelerate the engine to raise
the body. Do not exceed an engine speed of 1000 revolutions per min-
ute during this operation. The body will automatically stop when it has
reached the limit of its travel.
(3) To stop the body in any intermediate position, shift the dump
hoist lever to the "hold" position. It is not necessary to use the clutch
to accomplish this.
(4) When the hoist has reached its full stroke, depress the clutch
pedal and disengage the power take-off to prevent wear and tear on the
pump.
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(5) To lower the body, shift the dump hoist lever to the "lower"
position, and the body will return to a horizontal position. It is not
necessary to run the engine during this operation. Lock tail gate lever.
13. FIRE EXTINGUISHER.
a. Carbon Dioxide Extinguisher.
(1) The wrecker truck is equipped with a large carbon dioxide
extinguisher mounted on the right running board. It is held in place by
a snap clamp and is easily removed in emergencies. To use the extin-
guisher, proceed as follows:
(2 ) Carry extinguisher to fire and then open valve. Carry it in one
hand and hold the nozzle at the hose end of the handle with the other.
(3) Direct discharge close to fire. Do not stand at a distance, as
effectiveness will then be lost.
(4) Direct discharge first at the edge nearest the operator, or if on
a vertical surface, at bottom of fire.
(5) Slowly and deliberately increase the discharge as flame is ex-
tinguished. Do not haphazardly direct discharge over various sections
of fire. Put out one portion of fire completely before attacking other
parts.
(6) Continue discharge after flames are out to coat hot material
with carbon dioxide snow.
(7) Recharge extinguisher as soon as possible after use.
b. Carbon Tetrachloride Extinguisher. All vehicles are equipped
with a one-quart carbon tetrachloride extinguisher mounted on brack-
ets inside the cab. The extinguisher is operated by twisting the handle
past the locking lugs and then pumping, directing the discharge at the
fire. Attack the fire in the same manner as described in subparagraph a
above. Recharge extinguisher as soon as possible after use.
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Section V
OPERATION UNDER UNUSUAL CONDITIONS
Paragraph
Operation in extreme cold 14
Operation on ice 15
Operation in snow 16
Operation in extreme heat 17
Operation in desert or sandy terrain 18
Operation in mud 19
14. OPERATION IN EXTREME COLD.
a. General.
(1) Operation and maintenance of automotive vehicles at low
temperatures involve factors not found at normal operating tempera-
tures, and operators must devote more time to protective maintenance.
Failure to provide extra service will result in actual damage, unneces-
sary and unwarranted expense, and failure to start.
(2) Temperatures have been divided into two ranges: above 0F,
and below 0F. Metals and lubricants undergo changes in their physical
properties below 0F. In subzero temperatures accessory equipment
for supplying heat to engine, fuel, oil, and intake air is required.
b. Gasoline for Low Temperatures.
(1) SELECTION. Use the winter grade of gasoline procured under
U. S. Army Specification 2-103, grade C, latest revision.
(2) The formation of ice crystals from small quantities of water in
the fuel sometimes causes considerable trouble. To keep water out of
the fuel tank, observe the following precautions:
(3) Strain the gasoline through a filter paper or any other type of
strainer that will prevent the passage of water. CAUTION: Be sure to
provide a positive metallic contact between fuel container and gasoline
tank, unless both fuel tank and container are independently grounded.
(4) Insofar as possible, always keep the fuel tanks full. This will
reduce the free air space above the fuel from which moisture can be
condensed.
(5) Add one quart of denatured alcohol, grade 3, to fuel tank at
start of winter season and one pint per month thereafter. This will
reduce the hazard of ice formation in the fuel.
(6) Do not store fuel in old drums unless they are free from rust
and have been thoroughly cleaned. If time is not an urgent factor, do
not pump fuel from drum to vehicle until it has settled for 24 hours
after filling or moving the drum. Keep portable fuel pumps clean and
protected from snow and frost.
(7) When a drum has been opened, be sure to cover the opening
or replace the bung to keep out snow, frost, or other foreign matter.
Store drums in a covered building, or cover them with a tarpaulin.
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c. Engine Lubrication.
(1) Engine lubrication at temperatures above 0F is covered in
section VII, and in the Lubrication Guide. The following instructions
supplement this information, and apply only to instances where the
temperature falls below 0F for long periods.
(2) Several methods of keeping engine oil sufficiently fluid for
proper lubrication at temperatures below 0F are listed below. Give
preference to these methods in the order listed according to available
facilities.
(a) Keep the vehicle in a heated enclosure when not in operation.
(b) When engine is stopped, drain crankcase oil while it is hot, and
store in a warm place until vehicle is to be operated again. If warm stor-
age is not available, heat the oil before reinstalling. (Avoid overheating
the oil; heat only to the point where the bare hand can be inserted
without burning.) Tag the vehicle in a conspicuous place in the drive
compartment to warn personnel that crankcase is empty. Close both
shut-off valves to prevent flooding of the carburetor, and crankcase
dilution because of the accumulation of gasoline vapor pressure in the
gasoline tanks.
(c) Dilute the crankcase oil with gasoline or Diesel fuel, with pref-
erence given to gasoline. For satisfactory starting in subzero tempera-
tures, use one of the following two procedures to provide the engine with
properly diluted engine oil.
(3) GASOLINE AS DILUENT.
(a) Fill engine crankcase to the "FULL" mark with the grade of
engine oil prescribed for use at temperatures from +32 F to 0F. Add
IVz quarts of gasoline for each 5 quarts of crankcase oil capacity.
EXAMPLE: Crankcase with capacity of 10 quarts will require 3 quarts
of gasoline as an oil diluent.
(b) Run the engine 5 to 10 minutes to mix the lubricant and diluent
thoroughly.
(c) Stop the engine and note that the level of the diluted oil is
above the normal "FULL" mark on the oil gage. This level should be
marked on the gage for future reference.
(d) The presence of a large percentage of light diluent will increase
oil consumption and, for that reason, the oil level should be checked
frequently. Use the grade of engine oil prescribed for use between
+32 F to 0F to maintain the oil level to manufacturer's "FULL"
mark on the gage during operation.
(e) If the vehicle is operated four hours or more at operating tem-
perature, redilution will be necessary if it is anticipated that the vehicle
will be left standing unprotected for five hours or more. This can be
accomplished by adding engine oil prescribed for use between +32F
to 0F to the manufacturer's "FULL" mark; then adding gasoline to the
dilution mark on the gage described in subparagraph c (3) (c) above.
(4) DIESEL FUEL AS DILUENT. Drain the crankcase while the
engine is still warm and refill using engine oil prescribed for tempera-
tures between +32F to 0F diluted with grade X Diesel fuel oil in
the proportion of IVfc quarts of Diesel fuel to 5 quarts of engine oil.
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The presence of a large percentage of diluent will increase oil consump-
tion and, therefore, the oil level will be checked frequently during opera-
tion and maintained with the diluted oil to manufacturer's "FULL"
mark on gage.
d. Transmission, Transfer Case and Differentials.
(1) Where the use of SAE 10 engine oil is prescribed for use at
temperatures +32F to 0F, it will be used undiluted for operation
below 0F.
(2) SAE 80 universal gear lubricant, where prescribed, is suitable
for use at temperatures as low as 20 F. If consistent temperature
below 0F is anticipated, drain the gear cases while warm, and refill
with grade 75 universal gear lubricant which is suitable for operation
at all temperatures below -(-32 F. If grade 75 universal gear lubricant
is not available, SAE 80 universal gear lubricant, diluted with the fuel
used in the engine in the proportion of 1 part fuel to 6 parts SAE 80
universal gear lubricant, shall be used. Make-up oil will be diluted in
the same proportion before it is added to gear cases.
(3) After engine has been warmed up as provided in subparagraph
a (2 ) above, engage clutch and maintain engine speed at fast idle for 5
minutes until gears can be engaged. Put transmission in low (first)
gear, and drive vehicle for 100 yards, being careful not to stall engine.
This will heat gear lubricants to the point where normal operation can
be expected.
e. Chassis Lubricants.
(1) At temperatures below 0F lubricate chassis points with No. 0
general purpose grease.
( 2 ) Brake bands, particularly on new vehicles, have a tendency to
bind when they are very cold. Always have a blowtorch handy to warm
up these parts if they bind when you are attempting to move the vehicle.
Parking the vehicle with the brake released will eliminate most of the
binding. Precaution must be taken, under these circumstances, to block
the wheels or otherwise prevent movement of the vehicle.
(3) Inspect the vehicle frequently. Shock resistance of metals, or
resistance against breaking, is greatly reduced at extremely low tem-
peratures. Operation of vehicles on hard, frozen ground causes strain
and jolting which will result in screws breaking or nuts jarring loose.
(4) Disconnect oil-lubricated speedometer cables at the drive end
when operating vehicles at temperatures of 30 F and below. These
cables often fail to work properly at these temperatures, and sometimes
break due to the excessive drag caused by the high viscosity of the oil
with which they are lubricated. Grease-lubricated cables should oper-
ate satisfactorily at all temperatures, provided they are coated with
No. 0 general purpose grease and there is no excess grease in the housing.
f. Antifreeze.
(1) Protect the cooling system with antifreeze compound for oper-
ation below+32 F.
(2) Before adding antifreeze compound, be sure the cooling sys-
tem is clean and completely free from rust.
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(3) Inspect all hose and replace if deteriorated. Inspect hose
clamps, plugs, and petcocks, and tighten if necessary. Make sure radi-
ator does not leak before adding antifreeze compound, and that no
exhaust gas or air leaks into the cooling system.
(4) After the cooling system is clean and tight, fill with water to
about one-third capacity. Then add antifreeze compound, using the
proportion of antifreeze compound to the cooling system capacity indi-
cated below.
ANTIFREEZE TABLE
Lowest expected Pint*, compound antifreeze
temperature per gallon of cooling iytm capacity
+ 10F 2
0F 21/2
10F 3
20F
30F
40F
50F 5
(5) After adding antifreeze compound, fill with water to slightly
below the filler neck; then start and warm the engine to normal operat-
ing temperature.
(6) The engine should then be stopped and the solution checked
with a hydrometer, adding antifreeze compound if required.
(7) Inspect the coolant weekly for strength and color. Rusty
solution must be drained, the cooling system thoroughly cleaned, and
new solution of the required strength added. CAUTION: Use an accu-
rate hydrometer. To test a hydrometer use 1 part antifreeze compound
to 2 parts water. This solution should produce a hydrometer reading
of 0F.
g. Other Lubrication Points.
(1) Drain steering gear housing if possible, or use suction gun to
remove as much lubricant as possible. Refill with grade 75 universal
gear lubricant, or, if not available, with SAE 80 universal gear lubricant
diluted with fuel used in the engine in the proportion of 1 part fuel to
6 parts SAE 80 universal gear lubricant. Make-up oil will be diluted
in the same proportion before it is added to the housing.
(2 ) For oilcan points where engine oil is prescribed for above 0F,
use light preservative lubricating oil.
h. Protection of Electrical System.
(1) GENERATOR AND STARTER. Inspect the brushes, commutators
and bearings. See that the commutators are clean. The large surges of
current which occur when starting a cold motor require good contact
between brushes and commutators.
(2) WIRING. Inspect and clean all connections, especially the bat-
tery terminals. Take care that no short circuits are present, or that there
is no ice on the spark plugs, wiring, or other electrical equipment.
(3) COIL. Check coil for proper functioning.
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(4) DISTRIBUTOR. Clean thoroughly, and clean or replace points.
Check the points frequently. In cold weather the current is heavier, and
the points may pit and burn more than usual.
(5) SPARK PLUGS. Clean, test and replace if necessary. If it is diffi-
cult to make the engine fire, reduce the gap 0.005 inches. This will make
sparking easier at the reduced voltages likely to prevail.
(6) TIMING. Check carefully. Take care that the spark is not
unduly advanced or retarded.
(7) BATTERIES.
(a) The efficiency of batteries decreases sharply with decreasing
temperatures and becomes practically nil at 40 F. Do not attempt to
start the engine with the battery when it has been exposed to tempera-
tures below 30 F, until the battery has been warmed unless a warm
slave battery is available.
(b) A fully charged battery will not freeze at temperatures likely
to be found even in arctic climates, while a fully discharged battery will
freeze and rupture at -)-5F. See that the battery is always fully charged
with a hydrometer reading between 1.275 and 1.300.
(c) Do not add water to a battery when it has been exposed to sub-
zero temperatures unless the battery is to be charged immediately. If
water is added and the battery not put on charge, the layer of water will
stay at the top and freeze before it has a chance to mix with the acid.
Keep vent holes in filler plugs open. Keep terminals tight and clean.
At regular intervals, apply a coating of general purpose grease, No. 0,
or light rust preventive compound.
(8) LIGHTS. Inspect lights carefully.
i. General Conditions.
(1) Make sure that no heavy grease or dirt has been left on the
starter throw-out mechanism. Heavy grease or dirt may keep the
gears from being meshed, or cause them to remain in mesh after the
engine starts and thus ruin the starter.
(2) Pull the choke control all the way out to secure the air-fuel
ratio required for cold weather starting. Make sure the butterfly valve
in the carburetor closes all the way and otherwise functions properly.
(3) Carburetors which give no appreciable trouble at normal tem-
peratures may not operate satisfactorily at low temperatures. A fuel
pump which will deliver enough gasoline at normal starting speeds of
400 revolutions per minute may have leaky valves, or a diaphragm
which will prevent it from delivering a sufficient quantity of fuel at
cranking speeds of 30 to 60 revolutions per minute. Another source of
trouble is the float needle valve which, although a close fit, must move
freely. Different expansions of the metals used in the needle valve parts
may cause the needle valve to stick at extremely low temperatures.
(4) Inspect the vehicles frequently. Shock resistance of metals or
resistance against breaking is greatly reduced at extremely low tem-
peratures. Operation of vehicles on hard, frozen ground causes strain
and jolting which will loosen or break bolts and nuts.
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(5) Remove or bypass oil filters at temperatures below 30F,
because the viscous oil will not flow freely through them.
(6) Disconnect speedometer and tachometer cables at the drive
end for operating vehicles at temperatures of 30 F and below. These
cables often fail to work properly at these temperatures, and they some-
times break, because of excessive drag caused by the high viscosity of
the lubricating oil.
(7) Remove and clean sediment bulb, strainer, etc., at frequent
intervals.
j. Starting and Operation.
(1) It is possible to start gasoline engines with batteries at tem-
peratures as low as 30F, if the engines are properly lubricated and
in good mechanical condition.
(2) To insure that the engine will start on the first attempt, proper
preparation of the engine is very important. Should the engine fire a
few times and stop, water vapor, which is a product of combustion, may
form frost in the combustion chamber and make it impossible to start
without heating the engine to above 32 F. Prolonged starting efforts
wear down the battery.
(3) Pull the choke lever all the way out for starting, and keep it
partially pulled out until the engine has warmed up. Since only the
lightest components of the gasoline vaporize in a cold engine, a very
rich mixture is necessary. Depress the clutch pedal to ease the starting
load.
(4) When attempting to start, turn the engine over as rapidly as
possible. All engines have a critical cranking speed, i. e., the engine must
be turned over at a certain rate of speed before any start at all is pos-
sible. For engines in good mechanical condition, this critical rate of
speed may vary from 40 to 70 revolutions per minute. Below this speed,
the fuel pump will not deliver fuel fast enough.
(5) After the engine is started, idle it at 800 to 1,000 revolutions
per minute until it has warmed up enough to run smoothly. Do not
place the vehicle in operation under its own power until its operating
temperature of 160F has been reached. Maintain this temperature by
adjusting the radiator shutters during operation.
(6) Cover engine with tarpaulin, tent, or portable shed. Place oil
stoves, fire pots, or four or five ordinary kerosene lanterns under the
covering about three hours prior to starting time.
(7) Keep vehicles in sheltered areas shielded from wind. Cold
winds increase starting difficulties.
k. Stopping. Increase engine speed before turning off ignition.
Then turn off ignition and release throttle at the same time. As the
engine coasts to a stop, it will blow out all the residual products of com-
bustion, including water vapor, and leave only air and gasoline vapor
in the engine.
1. Cold Weather Accessories.
(1) A number of the most commonly used accessories have been
mentioned in the preceding sections. These, together with other acces-
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series and attachments used successfully in northern climates, are listed
below. The use of these accessories is not mandatory. They are given
only as suggestions, and are to be used at the discretion of officers in
charge of the materiel.
(2) Tarpaulins, tents, or collapsible sheds are useful for covering
vehicles, particularly the engines.
(3) Fire pots (Primus type) or Van Prag blowtorches, ordinary
blowtorches, oil stoves, or kerosene lanterns can be used for heating
vehicles.
(4) Extra batteries and facilities for changing batteries quickly
help in starting.
(5) Steel drums and suitable metal stands are useful for heating
crankcase oil.
(6) Insulation for the fuel line helps prevent ice formation inside
the line.
( 7 ) Radiator covers, improvised locally, help keep the engine run-
ning at normal temperatures.
15. OPERATION ON ICE.
a. General. It is essential, when driving on ice or slippery terrain,
that the operator exercise special care in order to avoid skidding and
possible accident. The hazards of this type of operation are greatly in-
creased when visibility is poor and when equipment is trailed behind
the vehicle. It is a test of the driver's ability, his judgment, and his "feel"
of the truck. In general, automotive vehicles should be operated on ice
at slow speeds with all wheels driving.
b. Starting and Accelerating on Ice.
(1) . When starting from a dead stop all available traction is re-
quired, so that it is necessary that the front axle drive be engaged. Tire
chains will make starting easier, but will not prevent the wheels from
spinning.
(2) Shift the transfer case into high range, and select a gear ratio
in the transmission one step higher than that required for a normal start
on dry pavement. The ratio to be selected will depend on the load that
is carried, but in general the start should be made with the transmission
in second gear when the vehicle is loaded (and with the transmission in
third gear when the vehicle is unloaded).
(3) After shifting into the proper gear in the transmission, acceler-
ate the engine slightly more than would be necessary for a normal start
to take care of the extra load on it, and release the clutch very slowly
until it is all the way out. If the wheels start to spin, immediately release
the clutch and start over again.
(4) Accelerate very slowly to avoid spinning the wheels. Shift up
in the transmission to driving gear, and accelerate to driving speed. If
at any time the wheels start to spin, immediately release the accelerator
pedal and then depress it gradually to pick up the load.
c. Vehicle Speed. It is not possible to drive as fast on slippery
roadways as it is on dry pavement. The speed at which the vehicle may
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be safely operated depends on the skill of the driver and the condition of
the road. Drive the vehicle at such a speed that it is under control at all
times. Stay far enough behind the vehicle ahead so that it will be pos-
sible to coast to a stop without hitting it. Avoid any tendencies toward
sudden changes in direction or speed. Make all sharp turns at a very
low speed.
d. Stopping on Ice.
(1) WARNING. Do not attempt to apply the brakes and make a
quick stop on slippery pavement. This is not possible. The wheels will
lock and the vehicle will skid and more than likely spin. This situation
is especially acute on vehicles equipped with air brakes. The ideal
method of stopping on slippery pavement is to stop without any brake
application.
(2) The driver must at all times be prepared to start to stop well
in advance of the real necessity. He must watch the road ahead and
anticipate the necessity of halting the vehicle.
(3) When it is necessary to stop, start well in advance and utilize
the engine compression as a brake. Shift progressively down in the
transmission as the vehicle slows up. If brake application is necessary it
must be very light but do not release the clutch when braking, unless
the vehicle speed is very low. If the brakes lock and the wheels skid,
release the brakes immediately. If possible avoid stopping where it will
be necessary to start uphill.
(4) When the vehicle is stopped, shift to neutral, shut off the engine
and apply the hand brake. If the vehicle is in a precarious position, block
the wheels to prevent accidents.
e. Recoveries.
(1) It will sometimes happen under extremely bad conditions that
the vehicle will start to skid and spin in spite of the care exercised by the
driver, and it is important that he understand the proper method to
attempt recovery. As soon as the wheels start to spin or skid, the driver
should immediately release the accelerator or the brake, whichever he
is using. In most instances this will be all that is necessary. In the event
that the vehicle is skidding or spinning, the driver must steer in front
of the vehicle. That is, he must steer in such a direction that the front
of the vehicle will stay forward. If the back end swings to the left, steer
to the left; if it swings to the right, steer to the right. Straighten out the
wheel as the vehicle corrects itself. Do not apply the brakes.
(2) When equipment is trailed behind the vehicle there is always
the possibility of "jackknifing." In the event this occurs, do not apply the
brakes, but accelerate the engine slowly and try to stay ahead of the
trailer. It is important that the acceleration be gradual enough so that
the wheels will not spin. Apply the trailer brakes lightly. The possibility
of recovery from this jeopardy depends on the alertness of the driver,
as it is impossible to straighten out once the trailer has swung out too far.
f. Vehicle Stalled. If the vehicle is stopped on an incline, in a rut,
in a hole or against the curb so that it is impossible to drive the vehicle,
do not accelerate wildly or spin the wheels. Extra traction may be ob-
tained by scattering sand, ashes, gravel, etc., under the wheels. In
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emergencies, it is possible to drive out on blankets or tire chains placed
on the ice ahead of each wheel. When the latter expedients are used it
is of the utmost importance to avoid spinning the wheels, else the blan-
kets or chains be kicked out from under them.
g. Frozen Terrain. In general, tire chains are of great value when
going cross country over frozen ground, and may be indispensable.
Start and stop slowly, drive cautiously and avoid holes and deep ruts
whenever possible.
h. Steep Inclines. It is almost impossible for automotive vehicles
to negotiate steep inclines on ice or slippery pavements. Where dis-
tances are not too great and where suitable anchors are available,
winching operations may be accomplished to raise or lower the vehicle
and load. In operations of this type, care should be exercised to prevent
injury and damage in the event of accident.
16. OPERATION IN SNOW.
a. General. The conditions of operation in snow vary with its
amount and quality. In general, operations in light snow or slush are
similar to ice operations. For heavier snow, the driver should avoid
unnecessary perils and heavy drifts whenever possible. When a snow
plow is available, it should be used to clear a roadway for other vehicles.
b. Light Snow. When driving on light snow or slush, tire chains
are not necessary. Operate the vehicle with caution, stop and start
slowly and observe the precautions outlined in paragraph 14.
c. Heavy Snow. With all six wheels driving, and with tire chains
installed, these trucks can operate successfully in snow up to 18 inches
deep. When trucks are traveling in convoy all vehicles should follow
in the tracks of the leader. It is important to keep the truck going; select
the proper gear ratio in the transmission to permit the engine to operate
with full power (1800 to 2300 revolutions per minute) to avoid stall-
ing. In the event the vehicle is stalled, do not attempt to start again
bucking heavy snow. Back up in the vehicle tracks far enough before
starting so that the vehicle will have acquired sufficient momentum to
avoid stalling when it hits the snow.
d. Drifts. In driving through drifts the vehicle transmission
should be put into low gear before entering the drift, and should have
sufficient momentum before it hits it. Once in the drift, keep the vehicle
moving. Stopping or slowing up to change gears in a drift will often
result in stalling.
e. Stalled Vehicles. When the vehicle is so badly stalled that it
cannot be freed by rocking the vehicle (alternate shifting from forward
to reverse speed), the driver should get out and determine the serious-
ness of the situation. NOTE: Do not make more than a few attempts
at rocking the vehicle as this will only cause the vehicle to dig in and
make the situation worse. Dig out around the wheels and make a path
for the vehicle. If chains are not installed, put them on. Drive out cau-
tiously and then keep the vehicle moving to avoid further stalling.
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f. Steep Inclines. When inclines are encountered which are too
steep to be negotiated in heavy snow, winching operations may be
attempted. Observe the same precautions as are observed for winching
in icy conditions.
17. OPERATION IN EXTREME HEAT.
a. General. The engine cooling system will require careful atten-
tion in torrid regions. The loss of cooling water will cause severe engine
damage and prevent operation of the vehicle. In addition to the most
careful attention for the cooling system, the operator must exercise spe-
cial maintenance precautions to prevent failure of critical parts.
b. Overheating.
(1) In order to prevent overheating it is essential that all units be
in proper adjustment to permit a cool-running engine. Cooling system
checks must be made at every possible opportunity in order to prevent
trouble. It is of the utmost importance that all water leaks be discov-
ered and repaired before they can cause damage to the engine. Check
possible causes of overheating as follows:
(a) Keep radiator full of water. Repair leaks.
(b) Keep fan belt in proper adjustment.
(c) Flush cooling system if it is clogged up.
(d) Be sure water pump is properly functioning.
(e) Check thermostat for faulty action.
(f) Look for rotted or defective rubber hose.
(g) Clean dirt or insects from radiator air passages, and clean dirt
or sand from bottom of radiator shroud.
(h) Check crankcase oil level.
(i) See that choke valve will open all the way to prevent a rich
mixture.
(j) Clean carburetor and check float level to prevent a lean mix-
ture.
(k) Check timing.
(1) Do not drive with spark too far retarded.
(m) Check exhaust for restrictions.
(n) Check brakes for dragging.
(o) Do not permit engine to labor. Drive in proper gear.
(2) In torrid regions it may be necessary to permit free circulation
of water to get the maximum cooling effect. This may be accomplished
by removing the thermostat and blocking off the thermostat bypass
tube. If this is done, it is recommended that the vehicle be tagged con-
spicuously so that the changeover may be reversed if the vehicle moves
into another climate.
(3) Special surge tanks or condensers are available for vehicles
operating in extremely hot regions. These are used in connection with
pressure cooling systems and serve as a reservoir for water which would
be lost with an ordinary cooling system.
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(4) Scale and rust formations in the cooling system occur more
readily than usual during operations in extreme heat. Rust inhibitors
should be added to the cooling liquid. Use only clean water and avoid
the use of water containing alkalis or other harmful substances.
c. Special Maintenance.
(1) In extremely hot weather preventive maintenance checks must
be made as frequently as possible. Rubber hose and diaphragms dete-
riorate rapidly when exposed to heat.
(2 ) Lubricating oils thin out and flow past seals more readily than
at normal temperatures.
(3) Brake drums become excessively hot, with the danger of gall-
ing and cracking.
(4) Tires wear out rapidly and inflation must be checked more
frequently than usual.
( 5 ) Excessive heat may cause vapor lock, and it may be necessary
to insulate the fuel lines or to install special pressure caps on the gaso-
line tanks. If vapor lock occurs, pour water over the lines and affected
units, or wait until they cool off.
(6) The level of the water in the battery should be checked daily
and replenished, if necessary, with drinking water.
18. OPERATION IN DESERT OR SANDY TERRAIN.
a. General. Desert driving calls for great individual skill on the
part of the driver because of the necessity for dispersion and for avoid-
ing the tracks of preceding vehicles. It takes considerable experience
to develop the quick eye necessary to pick the best ground and the
proper gear.
b. Cooling System. In desert operations, it is important that all
preventive maintenance practices outlined in paragraph 17 be followed.
Special emphasis should be placed on those aspects of preventive main-
tenance which are concerned with the cooling system as water is at a
premium in the desert.
c. Air Cleaners. There is always sand in the air in the desert and
more is stirred up by the wind and by the passage of vehicles. In order
to prevent damage to the engine, the air cleaners (engine air cleaner,
air compressor, air cleaner and auxiliary unit air cleaners where pro-
vided) be given very frequent attention. Under extremely bad condi-
tions it may be necessary to clean the air cleaners every hour or so.
When cleaning the air cleaners always check the breathers on the
engine, transfer case and axles.
d. Tires.
(1) In desert operations the tires must be suitable for almost every
type of terrain. The greatest difficulties will be encountered in sand.
The tires should be of plain rib tread and of round cross section, as tires
with deeply corrugated or raised flat treads will break through the crust
and dig into the soft sand underneath. Air pressure must be varied to
suit the type of ground surface.
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(2) When going over sand or soft powdered clay, the tires should
be deflated as much as is possible. By deflating the tires, the area in
contact with the ground is increased and hence the unit ground pres-
sure is decreased. The soft tire fits itself into the-irregularities of the
sand without breaking through the crust. It has been found that tire
life is very little shortened by running soft over sandy ground which
does not contain rocks or imbedded boulders.
(3) On rocky ground the tires must be fully inflated. Soft tires
would be quickly rendered useless from chafing against the rocks.
(4) Since a normal day's march will take a vehicle over different
kinds of ground, strict tire discipline is necessary. These vehicles are
equipped with an air hose so that air from the air brake reservoirs can
be used to inflate the tires.
e. Special Operating Instructions.
(1) Operations over sand should be made with the front axle
engaged with the transfer case in low range.
(2) All starts and stops on sandy ground should be made slowly
and gradually without spinning or skidding the wheels. When changing
gears, release the clutch gradually to prevent sudden changes in vehicle
speed. To neglect these precautions will cause the vehicle to break
through the crust and become stuck.
(3) The driver should shift gears at the proper time so as not to
lose vehicle speed, or cause the engine to labor. He must learn to make
full use of momentum to keep from being stuck any more often than
can be helped. If possible, the truck should never be parked facing
uphill.
(4 ) As soon as the vehicle has broken through the sand crust and
ceased to move, no attempt should be made to get the vehicle out under
power, as to do so will only cause the vehicle to sink deeper into the
sand. Dig a path out in front of the wheels which are dug in, making it
long and of shallow slope and as deep as the wheels are sunken in. Place
mats in front of the front wheels and place a single spar between the
duals of the rear wheels (so that it will function as a rail) and drive out
slowly and carefully. In extreme cases it may be necessary to attempt
winching operations.
19. OPERATION IN MUD.
a. General. The operation of an automotive vehicle over mud
and soft ground calls for the utmost in skill and judgment on the part
of the driver. The driver must avoid bad holes and deep ruts, and should
steer for those parts of the ground which afford the easiest going.
b. Preparation. Operations in mud require all available flotation
and traction. If the mud is not very bad, it may not be necessary to
make any special installations, but for deep mud it may be desirable
to mount the spare wheels on the front axle to provide duals all the way
around for extra flotation, and to install tire chains for extra traction.
c. Hints for Operation.
(1) Engage the front axle drive and shift to low range in the trans-
fer case before starting through the mud.
734619 O - 47 - 5 65
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( 2 ) Keep the engine wound up and do not permit it to labor. Select
the proper gears and shift up or down in the transmission to keep the
engine up to its full power (1800 to 2300 revolutions per minute).
(3) Keep the vehicle moving to make full use of its momentum.
Change gears quickly.
(4) If the vehicle becomes bogged down, do not attempt to drive
out as it will only cause the wheels to dig in deeper. Dig the wheels
clear and spread dry soil, sand, branches, etc., in front of them. It may
be necessary to attempt winching operations.
TM 9-811
20
Section VI
INSPECTION AND PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICE
Paragraph
Purpose 20
Before-operation service 21
During-operation service 22
At-halt service. . , 23
After-operation and weekly service 24
20. PURPOSE.
a. To insure mechanical efficiency it is necessary that the vehicle
be systematically inspected at intervals each day it is operated and
weekly, so defects may be discovered and corrected before they result
in serious damage or failure. Certain scheduled maintenance services
will be performed at these designated intervals. The services set forth
in this section are those performed by driver or crew, before operation,
during operation, at halt, and after operation and weekly.
b. Driver Preventive Maintenance Services are listed on the back
of "Driver's Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service Record,"
WJD. Form No. 48, to cover vehicles of all types and models. Items
peculiar to specific vehicles, but not listed on W.D. Form No. 48, are
covered in manual procedures under the items with which they are
related. Certain items listed on the form that do not pertain to the
vehicle involved are eliminated from the procedures as written into the
manual. Every organization must thoroughly school each driver in
performing the maintenance procedures set forth in manuals, whether
they are listed specifically on W.D. Form No. 48 or not.
c. The items listed on W.D. Form No. 48 that apply to this vehicle
are expanded in this manual to provide specific, procedures for accom-
plishment of the inspections and services. These services are arranged
to facilitate inspection and conserve the time of the driver and are not
necessarily in the same numerical order as shown on W.D. Form No. 48.
The item numbers, however, are identical to those shown on that form.
d. The general inspection of each item applies also to any support-
ing member or connection, and generally includes a check to see
whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or
excessively worn. ,
e. The inspection for "good condition" is usually an external visual
inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond safe or
serviceable limits. The term good condition is explained further by the
following terms: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken
or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut.
f. The inspection of a unit to see that it is "correctly assembled" is
usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its normal
assembled position in the vehicle.
g. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is "secure" is usually
an external visual examination, a hand-feel, or a pry-bar check for
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looseness. Such an inspection should include any brackets, lock wash-
ers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.
h. "Excessively worn" will be understood to mean worn close to, or
beyond, serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not replaced
before the next scheduled inspection.
i. Any defects or unsatisfactory operating characteristics beyond
the scope of first echelon to correct must be reported at the earliest
opportunity to the designated individual in authority.
21. BEFORE-OPERATION SERVICE.
a. This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to see
that the vehicle has not been tampered with, or sabotaged since the
After-operation Service was performed. Various combat conditions
may have rendered the vehicle unsafe for operation, and it is the duty
of the driver to determine whether or not the vehicle is in condition to
carry out any mission to which it is assigned. This operation will not
be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations.
b. Procedures. Before-operation Service consists of inspecting
items listed below according to the procedure described, and correcting
or reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of the service, results
should be reported promptly to the designated individual in authority.
(1) ITEM 1, TAMPERING AND DAMAGE. Look for injury to vehicle
in general, accessories or equipment, caused by tampering or sabotage,
collision, falling debris or shell fire since parking vehicle. Look under
hood for signs of tampering of sabotage, such as loosened or damaged
accessories, loose fuel, oil or water lines, disconnected wiring or linkage.
Dry electrical wiring or accessories, if necessary, to facilitate starting.
(2-) ITEM 2, FIRE EXTINGUISHERS. Inspect for corrosion, clogged
nozzle, full charge (shake to test), and secure mounting.
(3) ITEM 3, FUEL, OIL AND WATER. Observe amount of fuel in
tanks, vehicle and wrecker air compressor and spare cans; add fuel if
necessary. Read crankcase oil level (also oil level of compressor on
wrecker). Add oil if necessary. Inspect water level and condition of
coolant. If necessary to add considerable water during period when
antifreeze is used, have hydrometer check made of coolant and add
antifreeze if required. Investigate and report any appreciable change
in levels since performing last After-operation Service.
(4) ITEM 4, ACCESSORIES AND DRIVES. Examine all accessories
such as carburetor, generator, regulator, starter, fuel pump, fuel strainer,
fan, and water pump for loose connections and mountings or leaks.
Make sure winches are not engaged and that cable is properly wound
and fastened. Examine winch transmission roller chain (wrecker) for
good condition, and one-half inch deflection from vertical opposite idler
gear. Examine fan belts for good condition and one-inch deflection
between fan and crankshaft pulleys.
(5) ITEM 5, AIR BRAKE TANKS. Inspect air brake valve assem-
blies for leaks with brakes applied and released; check connections
if hooked up to trailer. See that dummy couplings are installed. Exam-
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ine air brake reservoir tanks for damage and security of mounting, also
air line connections for tightness. Be sure water (condensation) is
drained from air tanks. CAUTION: Close drain valves.
(6) ITEM 6, LEAKS, GENERAL. Look under vehicle and on ground
for indications of fuel, oil, water, and gear oil leaks. Examine radiator
core and hose, oil filters, crankcase, fuel tank and fuel and oil lines for
leaks. Correct leaks or report.
(7) ITEM 7, ENGINE WARM-UP. Start engine. Observe any tend-
ency toward slow cranking speed, and improper or noisy engaging or
disengaging when starting control is operated. Set throttle to give 800
to 900 revolutions per minute (tachometer reading) and warm-up
engine while proceeding with the following Before-operation Service.
NOTE: During engine warm-up listen for unusual noises and observe
instrument indications and engine performance, such as misfiring and
rapid temperature rise. If oil pressure does not read at least 5 to 10
pounds at idle immediately after starting, STOP ENGINE, and report.
(8) ITEM 8, CHOKE. At starting, test operation of choke. As en-
gine warms up, push in choke to prevent overchokhig and engine oil
dilution.
(9) ITEM 9, INSTRUMENTS. Inspect for secure mounting, prbper
connections, damage, and proper readings.
(a) Oil Pressure Gage. Normal gage pressure is 5 to 10 pounds at
idle and 25 pounds minimum at running speeds, with warm engine.
Pressure will be higher before engine warms up.
(b) Ammeters. After engine starts and is running at 800 to 900
revolutions per minute (fast idle), both ammeters should show a high
positive (-j- ) charge rate for short period until battery current used in
starting is restored, then a zero or slight positive ( + ) charge, with
lights and accessories turned off.
(c) Fuel Gage. Must register approximate amount of fuel in tank.
(d) Temperature Gage. Reading should increase gradually as en-
gine warms up to 160 to 180F operating temperature.
(e) Tachometer. Observe whether tachometer indicates engine
revolutions per minute without undue noise or fluctuation.
(f) Air Brake Pressure Gage and Warning Buzzer. Gage should
show 70-pounds pressure before starting truck. Warning buzzer should
operate up to 50- to 60-pounds pressure. If 70-pounds pressure is not
reached within reasonable warm-up time, investigate system for faulty
operation or leaks. Maximum governed pressure is 105 pounds.
(g) Viscosity Gage. Gage may indicate "heavy" during warm-up
period, but must indicate "ideal" after warm-up. "Thin" indication
shows need for oil change.
(10) ITEM 10, HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPER. If tactical situa-
tion permits, test horn. Operate windshield wipers, and observe for
blade contact throughout full arc of operation.
(11) ITEM 11, GLASS AND REAR VIEW MIRROR. Inspect for dam-
aged frames, brackets, and discolored glass. Clean windshield and
door glass. Clean mirror and aim properly.
(12) ITEM 12, LAMPS (LIGHTS) AND REFLECTORS. Tactical situa-
tion permitting, turn on switches and see that all lights light. See that
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all lights are secure and lenses of lights and reflectors are clean and
not broken.
(13) ITEM 13, WHEEL AND FLANGE NUTS. Examine all wheel
mountings, rim and flange nuts to see they are secure.
(14) ITEM 14, TIRES. Look for damage. See that there are no
stones, glass or other foreign objects imbedded in treads or carcass, or
between duals. Inspect for presence of valve caps. Air pressure should
be 65 pounds.
(15) ITEM 15, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSIONS. See that they are
secure, not damaged or shifted.
(16) ITEM 16, STEERING LINKAGE. Inspect steering gear case
and all connecting linkage for good condition and security. Make sure
there are no excessive lubricant leaks.
(17) ITEM 17, FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Inspect for looseness or
damage. Inspect 5-gallon cans and bracket for good condition and
security.
(18) ITEM 18, TOWING CONNECTIONS. (Pintle and two tow hooks.)
See that towing connections are secure and not damaged.
(19) ITEM 19, BODY, LOAD AND TARPAULINS. Inspect for good
condition, security and even load distribution.
(20) ITEM 20, DECONTAMINATOR. Inspect for full charge (shake),
closed valve, and secure mounting.
(21) ITEM 21, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. Inspect for presence, serv-
iceability, and proper stowage.
(22) ITEM 22, ENGINE OPERATION. Engine should idle smoothly
with choke button fully depressed. Accelerate and decelerate, and
listen for unusual noises that may indicate compression or exhaust
leaks, worn, damaged, loose, or inadequately lubricated engine parts
or accessories. Note any unusual smoke from exhaust.
(23) ITEM 23, DRIVER PERMIT AND FORM No. 26. Driver must
have his operator's permit and make sure that Standard Accident Re-
port Form No. 26, and Vehicle Operator's Manual are in the vehicle,
legible, and safely stowed.
(24) ITEM 24, DURING-OPERATION SERVICE. The During-opera-
tion Service must start immediately after vehicle is put in motion.
22. DURING-OPERATION SERVICE.
a. While vehicle is in motion, listen for any sounds such as rattles,
knocks, squeals, or hums that may indicate trouble. Look for indica-
tions of trouble in cooling system and for smoke from any part of the
vehicle. Be on the alert to detect any odor of overheated components
or units such as generator, brakes, clutch, fuel vapor from a leak in
fuel system, exhaust gas or other signs of trouble. Any time the brakes
are used, gears shifted, or vehicle turned, consider this a test, and notice
any unsatisfactory or unusual performance. Watch the instruments
constantly. Notice promptly any unusual instrument indication that
may signify possible trouble in the system to which the instrument
applies.
b. Procedures. During-operation Services consist of observing
items listed below according to the procedures following each item,
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and investigating any indications of serious trouble. Notice minor
deficiencies to be corrected or reported at earliest opportunity, usually
next scheduled halt.
(1) ITEM 2 7, FOOT AND HAND BRAKES. Foot brake should operate
smoothly and effectively without pulling vehicle to right or left Free
travel before brake operation should be Vi to 1 inch. When vehicle is
stopped, hand brake should hold vehicle satisfactorily on a reasonable
incline. Reserve of Vi to l/3 of lever travel must be available.
( 2 ) ITEM 2 8, CLUTCH. Test clutch pedal for one to one and one-half
inches free travel before disengagement. Clutch must not chatter,
squeal, or slip.
(3) ITEM 29, TRANSMISSION, (POWER TAKE-OFF ON CARGO, PON-
TON AND WRECKER TRUCKS). Gears must shift smoothly, operate
quietly, and not creep out of mesh during operation.
(4) ITEM 30, TRANSFER, (POWER TAKE-OFF ON DUMP TRUCK).
Gears should shift smoothly, operate quietly, and not creep out of mesh
during operation.
(5) ITEM 31, ENGINE AND CONTROLS. Be alert for deficiencies in
engine performance such as lack of usual power, misfiring, unusual
noise, stalling, engine overheating, or unusual exhaust smoke. Note
whether engine responds to controls satisfactorily and whether con-
trols seem to be in proper adjustment, and not loose.
(6) ITEM 32, INSTRUMENTS. Observe all instruments for indica-
tion of normal functioning of systems to which they apply.
(a) Temperature Gage. Normal operating temperature is 160F
to 180F.
(b) Oil Pressure Gage. Normal oil pressure is 5 to 10 pounds at
idle and 25 pounds minimum at running speeds. Any unusual drop,
or no pressure, requires immediate stopping of engine.
(c) Ammeters. Both should indicate zero or positive (+) reading
during operation. Discharge may indicate faulty generator, regulator
or other serious electrical trouble.
(d) Fuel Gage. Should indicate approximate amount of fuel in
tank.
(e) Speedometer and Odometer. The speedometer should indicate
vehicle speed (except reverse) without noise or fluctuation. Odometer
should record accumulating trip and total mileage.
(f) Tachometer. Should register engine revolutions per minute
without noise or fluctuation.
(g) Air Pressure Gage. Should indicate 85 to 105 pounds during
operation. Maximum governed pressure is 105 pounds.
(h) Air Pressure Warning Buzzer. Indicates dangerously low
pressure (50 to 60 pounds or less).
(i) Viscosity Gage. Must show "ideal" after engine is fully
warmed up.
(7) ITEM 33, STEERING GEAR. Test for looseness, binding, pulling
to one side, wheel tramp wander, shimmy, or unusual noises.
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(8) ITEM 34, RUNNING GEAR. Listen for any unusual noises from
wheels, axles or suspension parts, that may indicate looseness or
damage.
(9) ITEM 35, BODY AND TRAILER. Be alert for shifting load,
abnormal sagging or tilting of vehicle, loose top, presence and condi-
tion of tarpaulin or curtains, unusual weaving of towed loads, loose
hardware, gun mounts, or equipment.
23. AT-HALT SERVICE.
a. At-halt Services may be regarded as minimum maintenance pro-
cedures and should be performed under all tactical conditions, even
though more extensive maintenance services must be slighted or
omitted altogether.
b. Procedures. At-halt Services consist of investigating any defi-
ciencies noted during operation, inspecting items listed below accord-
ing to the procedures following the items, and correcting any deficien-
cies found. Deficiencies not corrected should be reported promptly to
the designated individual in authority.
(1) ITEM 38, FUEL, OIL AND WATER. Replenish as required. Fuel
filler cap vents must be free.
(2) ITEM 39, TEMPERATURES: HUBS, BRAKE DRUMS, TRANSFER,
TRANSMISSION, AND AXLES. Feel for overheating. Transfer tempera-
tures will run higher than other gear units. Lower than average tem-
perature of brake drum may indicate inoperative brake.
(3 ) ITEM 40, AXLE AND TRANSFER VENTS. Wipe vents clean and
examine for damaged or clogged condition; remove and clean if neces-
sary.
(4) ITEM 41, PROPELLER SHAFTS. Examine for looseness, dam-
age, or oil leaks.
(5) ITEM 42, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSION. Inspect for broken or
shifted spring leaves, damaged or loose clips, U-bolts, eyebolts, shackles,
shock absorbers, torque rods, and torque rod pins.
(6) ITEM 43, STEERING LINKAGE. Examine steering control
mechanism, arms, and linkage for looseness or damage.
( 7 ) ITEM 44, WHEEL AND FLANGE NUTS. All nuts must be present
and secure.
(8) ITEM 45, TIRES. Tires must have 65 pounds maximum pres-
sure (when cool). Examine for flats or damage. Remove foreign mat-
ter from treads and from between duals.
(9) ITEM 46, LEAKS, GENERAL. Look under hood and under
vehicle for indications f fuel, oil, water, or hoist fluid leaks.
(10) ITEM 47, ACCESSORIES AND BELTS. Examine for looseness,
damage and incorrect alinement. Fan belt must have tension to give
one-inch deflection between fan and crankshaft pulley. Wrecker rear
winch drive chain tension must have one-half inch deflection.
(11) ITEM 48, AIR CLEANERS. Cleaners must be secure and air
passages clean. When operating under extremely dirty or sandy con-
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TM 9-811
23-24
ditions, inspect air cleaners and breather caps frequently. Clean and
oil the following as required: carburetor and compressor air cleaners,
oil filler breather, and air cleaners on air compressor of wrecker.
(12) ITEM 49, FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Examine for looseness or
damage.
(13) ITEM 50, TOWING CONNECTIONS. Make sure all towing con-
nections are secure and locked.
(14) ITEM 51, BODY, LOAD AND TARPAULIN. Inspect vehicle load
for shifting and tarpaulins for secure fastening and good condition.
(15) ITEM 52, APPEARANCE AND GLASS. Clean windshield, door
and window glass, rear-view mirror, and lamp lenses, and inspect for
damage.
24. AFTER-OPERATION AND WEEKLY SERVICE.
a. After-operation Servicing is particularly important, because at
this time the driver inspects his vehicle to detect any deficiencies that
may have developed, and corrects those he is permitted to handle. He
should report promptly to the designated individual in authority, the
results of his inspection. If this schedule is performed thoroughly, the
vehicle should be ready to roll again on a moment's notice. The Before-
operation Service, with a few exceptions, is then necessary only to
ascertain whether the vehicle is in the same condition in which it was
left upon completion of the After-operation Service. The After-opera-
tion Service should never be entirely omitted even in extreme tactical
situations, but may be reduced to the bare fundamental services out-
lined for the At-halt Service if necessary.
b. Procedures. When performing the After-operation Service the
driver must remember and consider any irregularities noticed during
the day in the Before-operation, During-operation, and At-halt Services.
The After-operation Service consists of inspecting and servicing the
following items. Those items of the After-operation that are marked
by an asterisk (* ) require additional weekly services, the procedures
for which are indicated in subparagraph (b) of each applicable item.
(1) ITEM 55, ENGINE OPERATION. Test for smooth engine idle
without stalling. Accelerate and decelerate engine, noting any tendency
to miss or backfire, unusual noises, or vibration. Investigate any un-
satisfactory engine operating characteristics noted during operation.
(2) ITEM .56, INSTRUMENTS. Before stopping engine inspect in-
struments for good condition, secure mountings, proper connections, and
proper readings.
(a) Oil Pressure Gage. Oil pressure should be 5 to 10 pounds at
idle and a minimum of 25 pounds at running speeds.
(b) Temperature Gage. Temperature should range between 160F
to 180F.
(c) Ammeters. Both should read zero or slight positive charge at
idle speed (with lights and accessories turned off).
(d) Fuel Gage. Gage should indicate approximate contents of tank.
(e) Tachometer. Should register engine revolutions per minute
without fluctuation of indicator.
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(t) Viscometer. Should indicate "ideal" (normal).
(g) Air Pressure Gage. Gage should indicate in excess of 50 pounds
and not over 105 pounds with buzzer NOT operating. (Pressures sub-
ject to 5 or 6 pounds plus or minus variation.)
(3) ITEM 54, FUEL, OIL AND WATER. Fill vehicle fuel tank (and
air compressor tank on wrecker, if required ) and spare cans. Read en-
gine oil level (and air compressor oil level on wrecker) and fill to
proper level with specified oil. Note level of coolant, observe for con-
tamination, and add water if needed. If necessary to add considerable
quantity of water during period when antifreeze is used, have hydrom-
eter test made and add antifreeze if required.
(4) ITEM 57, HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPERS. Inspect horn for
secure mounting and proper connections, wipers for good condition,
smooth operation, full stroke and contact.
(5) ITEM 58, GLASS AND REAR-VIEW MIRROR. Clean and examine
for good condition and secure mounting. Cover exposed glass to avoid
reflections if situation requires camouflage.
(6) ITEM 59, LAMPS (LIGHTS) AND REFLECTORS. Observe whether
lights go on and off as operated. Inspect all lenses and reflectors for
dirt or damage; clean if necessary.
(7) ITEM 60, FIRE EXTINGUISHER. Inspect for good condition,
leaks, and tight mountings. If extinguisher has been used report for
refill or replacement.
(8) ITEM 61, DECQNTAMINATOR. Inspect for good condition
and security of mounting.
(9) ITEM 62, *BATTERIES.
(a) Inspect batteries for good condition, secure mounting and con-
nections, proper electrolyte level, and leaks. Vent caps must be clean
and secure.
(b) Weekly. Clean dirt from top of batteries and remove caps. Add
clean drinking water if necessary. When terminals or posts are cor-
roded, clean and grease lightly. Tighten terminal bolts and mounting
bolts carefully. Clean and paint battery carrier if corroded.
(10) ITEM 63, * ACCESSORIES AND BELTS.
(a) Inspect carburetor, air cleaner, compressor, generator, regulator,
starter, fan, and water pump for loose connections or mountings. Inspect
air cleaner, carburetor, and water pump for leaks. Test fan belt for one"
inch deflection between fan and crankshaft pulleys.-
(b) Weekly. Tighten, if necessary, all accessories and inspect for
any loose connections or leaks.
(11) ITEM 64, *LECTRICAL WIRING.
(a) Inspect ignition wiring and outside of spark plugs and distributor
cap for secure connections, cleanliness, and good condition.
(b) Weekly. Inspect all accessible low voltage wiring for good con-
dition and security.
74
TM 9-811
24
(12) ITEM 65, *AIR CLEANERS AND BREATHER CAPS.
(a) Inspect carburetor air cleaner, crankcase breather mesh, air
compressor cleaners, and clean if necessary, according to paragraph
26c(3).
(b) Weekly. Clean, dry and reoil air compressor air cleaners ac-
cording to paragraph 26 c (3).
(13 ) ITEM 66, *FUEL FILTER.
(a) Inspect filter for good condition, security of mounting, and leaks.
(b) Weekly. Remove drain plug from fuel strainer under left front
fender, bottom side edge (not the center bowl nut), allow water and
sediment to drain out of bowl and replace and tighten plug securely.
(14) ITEM 67, ENGINE CONTROLS. Examine for wear, damage, dis-
connected linkage, and proper lubrication.
(15) ITEM 68, * TIRES.
(a) Remove all foreign matter such as nails, glass, or stones from
tires or from between duals. Inspect tires for signs of low pressure, ab-
normal tread wear and cuts. Replace missing valve caps. Inflate to 65
pounds pressure, when tires are cool.
(b) Weekly. Replace badly worn or unserviceable tires. Inspect
valve stems on inside and outside duals; stems should be diametrically
opposite (180 degrees). Inside dual and front wheel valves point away
from vehicle; outside duals point toward vehicle. Change wheel posi-
tion at first sign of irregular wear.
(16) ITEM 69, ^SPRINGS AND SUSPENSIONS.
(a) Inspect springs for abnormal sag, broken or shifted leaves, loose
or missing rebound clips, eyebolts, U-bolts, or shackles. Inspect torque
rods, pins, and shock absorbers for looseness or damage.
(b) Weekly. Aline and tighten securely as necessary.
(17) ITEM 70, STEERING LINKAGE. Inspect steering linkage for
good condition, loose, or inadequately lubricated parts. Examine steer-
ing gear case for leaks.
(18) ITEM 71, PROPELLER SHAFTS. Remove excess dirt and grease
from around shafts and universal joints. Remove any foreign material
wrapped around shafts. Inspect for loose connections, lubricant leaks,
and damage.
(19) ITEM 72, *AXLE AND TRANSFER VENTS.
(a) Examine all axle, housing, and transfer vents for presence, good
condition and security.
(b) Weekly. Free all breather vents of obstructions.
(20) ITEM 73, LEAKS, GENERAL. Look under hood and beneath
vehicle for indications of fuel, oil, and water leaks. Inspect 'around
brake drums for lubricant leaks. Examine axles, transmission, trans-
fer, and power take-off for gear oil leaks. Inspect hoist and hoist pump
and lines on dump truck for fluid leaks. Trace all leaks to source and
correct or report.
(21) ITEM 74, GEAR OIL LEVELS. Inspect differentials, transmis-
sion, and transfer case units for correct lubricant levels (from Vi inch
below, when cool, to filler hole level, when hot).
75
TM 9-811
24
(22) ITEM 75, *AIR BRAKE TANKS AND CONNECTIONS.
(a) Listen at several points about truck for indications of air leaks.
Drain condensation water from both air brake tanks, and close valves
after draining. Inspect air brake chambers and linkage for security of
mountings.
(b) Tighten tank mounting and all air-line connections that are
loose. Clean air-line hose.
(23) ITEM 76, FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Inspect for security and
good condition.
(24) ITEM 77, TOWING CONNECTIONS. Inspect towing hooks and
pintle for looseness or damage. Be sure any towed load is secure and
safety catches lock properly.
(25) ITEM 78, BODY, LOAD AND TARPAULIN. Inspect bodies for
damage and loose or missing parts. See that load is evenly distributed
and secure. Tarpaulin must be secure and not damaged.
(26) ITEM 82, *TIGHTEN.
(a) Tighten all wheel mounting, axle flange, and spring U-bolt
nuts securely.
(b) Weekly. Tighten all vehicle assembly mounting nuts or screws
that inspection indicates need to be tightened; be sure to tighten body
mounting bolt nuts.
(27) ITEM 83, ^LUBRICATE AS NEEDED.
(a) Lubricate all parts which inspection has revealed need lubrica-
tion. Wipe all dirt from fittings before applying lubricant. Report any
missing fittings.
(b) Weekly. If due, lubricate all points indicated on vehicle Lubri-
cation Guide as requiring attention on weekly or mileage basis.
(28) ITEM 84, * CLEAN ENGINE AND VEHICLE.
(a) Clean dirt and trash from inside cab and body. Remove ex-
cessive dirt and grease from exterior of vehicle and engine.
(b) Weekly. Wash vehicle and remove all dirt and excess grease.
If washing is impracticable, wipe as clean as possible using care to avoid
creating bright spots which would cause glare. CAUTION: Do not
flush out cab, but sweep when necessary. Clean engine and accessories
thoroughly.
(29) ITEM 85, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. Check all tools and equip-
ment assigned to vehicle against stowage lists to make certain they
are in good condition and properly mounted and stowed. See para-
graphs 27 through 31 of this manual.
TM 9-811
25-26
Section VII
LUBRICATION
Paragraph
Introduction 25
Lubrication Guide 26
25. INTRODUCTION. Lubrication is an essential part of preven-
tive maintenance, determining to a great extent the serviceability of
parts and assemblies.
26. LUBRICATION GUIDE.
a. General. Lubrication instructions for this materiel are consoli-
dated in a Lubrication Guide (figs. 33, 34, 35, and 36). These specify
the points to be lubricated, the periods of lubrication, and the lubri-
cant to be used. In addition to the items on the Guide, other small
moving parts, such as hinges and latches, must be lubricated at
frequent intervals.
b. Supplies. In the field it may not be possible to supply a com-
plete assortment of lubricants called for by the Lubrication Guide to
meet the recommendations. It will be necessary to make the best
use of those available, subject to inspection by the officer concerned,
in consultation with responsible ordnance personnel.
c. Lubrication Notes. The following notes apply to the Lubrica-
tion Guide (figs. 33, 34, and 35). All note references in the Guide
itself are to the subparagraph below having the corresponding
number:
(1) FITTINGS. Clean before applying lubricant. Lubricate until
new lubricant is forced from the bearing, unless otherwise specified.
CAUTION: Lubricate chassis points after washing.
(2) INTERVALS INDICATED ARE FOR NORMAL SERVICE. For ex-
treme conditions of speed, heat, water, sand, mud, snow, rough roads,
dust, etc., reduce interval by % or /(>, or more if conditions warrant.
(3) AIR CLEANERS. Daily, check level and refill engine air
cleaner oil reservoir to bead level with used crankcase oil or OIL,
engine, crankcase grade. Every 2,000 miles (daily under extreme
dust conditions) remove air cleaner and wash all parts. CAUTION:
Keep all air pipe connections clean and tight. Every 1,000 miles
(daily under extreme dust conditions) remove crankcase breather
sump and mesh and wash in SOLVENT, dry-cleaning, and reoil
mesh and fill sump to bead level with used crankcase oil or OIL,
engine, crankcase grade. Wash cab ventilator air cleaner filter screen
in water every 2,000 miles, and renew filter every 15,000 miles.
(Closed-type cab only.) Weekly, wash, dry and reoil curled hair in
air compressor air cleaner with used crankcase oil or OIL, engine,
crankcase grade. Check daily under extreme conditions. Weekly,
wash, dry and reoil curled hair and air strainers in wrecker air com-
pressor air cleaner and air compressor engine air cleaner with used
crankcase oil or OIL, engine, crankcase grade. Kellogg-type air
77
TM 9-811
26
z!
BEARITG
1 -5
Tj
ee.
<
WITRH JAW RLUTR
(Clean and oil when ne
to avoid iticking)
i WITRH SHAFT ETD
RVICED FROM UNDER
E RRANKCASE (Saa Ta
Drain, rafill (Nota 4)
Rhack laval daily
E GENERATOR (6 or B
AIR ROMPTSSOR A
RLEANER (Tota 3)
B TARHOMETER DRIVE
(Rafill cup, turn 1 full
avary 100 milas)
E DISTRIBUTOR (6 or B
E WIRK UNDER ROTOR
P WATER PUMP
( Rafill cups, turn 1 full*
E (Lata medals) (packing
E AIR RLEANER (Nota
1 STARTER (covarad oil
(Tota 12)
( Raachad from underni
on
LU
-I
O.
B CLUTCH SHAFT
> FAN (fitting)
II
i1
aE
1*
5 eft
So
00
*0
00
f- N
78
TM 9-811
LUBRICATION
26'
*W
aa
uu
ROTTROL
ck.r only)
BEARINGS
) (NoU 9)
AMSHAFT
ADJUSTER
BEARING
plug lev.l)
iEARINGS
1 (Not. 9)
il
"I-S
2-|
LU
it et
i?
II
fc*"*
E APPLIRATI
d through fl
LE\
( Lubricati
ach.d from
TAKE-OFF
RABLE (Wr
i!
BRAKE ATR
BRAKE C
EAR SPRITG
(Fill to
_J *
BRAKE C
BRAKE ANRI
VI
UJ
if
QC
TM 9-811
26
2s
.z
sI
ID O } -E -
1st?.
&
i ;-iii|| |i
i ii III in si
-w O.
- ^ -* ^ >
< -)
I _<
T <J) Z
oT 2 =|
Mil"
?3i2|
il
Q*-
;j
WTR
(Rlaan
S8
ss
IT
80
81
26
TM 9-811
LUBRICATION
734619 O - 47 -
TM 9-811
26
cleaner has felt disk; remove thin felt layer instead of washing. Proper
maintenance of air cleaners is essential to prolonged engine life.
(4) CRANKCASE. Drain only when engine is hot. Refill to "FULL"
mark on gage. Run engine a few minutes and recheck oil level.
CAUTION: Be sure pressure gage indicates oil is circulating. The
viscometer reading should be in normal range with engine completely
warm and running at a speed slightly in excess of idling.
(5) OIL FILTERS. Every 2,000 miles, or more often if necessary,
drain the niters through drain plugs. Remove filter element and clean
case. Every 6,000 miles, or more often if filter becomes clogged,
TABLE Of CAPACITIES AND LUBRICANTS TO BE USED
UNIT
CAPACITY
(Approx.)
LOWEST EXPECTED AIR TEMPERATURE
+32 F. and above
+32 f. to 0 F.
Below 0 F.
Cwikcne
16 at.
SAE 30
SAE 10
OE
Transmission with
Power Take-off
12 qt.
Transmission without
Power Take-off
10V4 at.
Transfer Case
Model 967, 5 gt.
others, 1'A at.
sJS%
SAE 80
GO
Front Differentia
7V*at.
Rear Differentia
s (Each unit)
3% qt.
Refer to
OFSB 6-11
Winch Worm Housing
1%qt.
Wrecker
Air
Compressor
Crankcase
Kellogg
V4qt.
1 0.
Curtis
Hqt
OE
DeVilbiss
Viql.
| SAE 30
SAE 10
Wrecker Air Compressor
Engine Crankcase
Hat.
Wrecker Transmission
Hqt. .
SAE 50
OE
TM 9-811
26
LUBRICATION
drain. Replace drain plugs and refill cases to correct level with
lubricant specified on Guide.
(7) UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND SLIP JOINTS. Apply GREASE, gen-
eral purpose, seasonal grade, to universal joint until it overflows at
relief valve, and to slip joint until lubricant is forced from vent at
universal joint end of spline.
(8) UNIVERSAL JOINTS (FRONT WHEELS). With truck on level
ground, remove inspection plug in rear of joint, and plug in stub shaft.
Insert fitting in stub shaft and fill until lubricant comes out inspec-
tion plug hole. Replace plugs.
(9) WHEEL BEARINGS (FRONT AND REAR). To clean and pack
bearings properly, they must be removed from the hub. Follow the
procedure below:
(a) Remove bearings from hub (par. 138) and wash in SOL-
VENT, dry-cleaning, until all the old lubricant is removed from both
inside and outside of cage.
(b) Lay the bearing cones aside to dry and wash inside of hub
and spindle with dry-cleaning solvent.
(c) When bearings are thoroughly dry, coat lightly with OIL,
engine crankcase grade, and pack races with GREASE, general pur-
pose No. 2, and reassemble in hub. To satisfactorily pack a bearing
it is necessary to knead lubricant in by hand or to pack into space
between the cage and inner race. Coat inside of hub and spindle with
a thin coat of grease to prevent rusting. The lubricant packed in
bearing races is sufficient to provide lubrication until the next service
period. An excess may result in leakage of lubricant into the brake
drum.
(d) Replace wheel and adjust bearings according to instructions
in paragraph 138.
(10) FUEL FILTER Every 100 to 1,000 miles, depending on
operating conditions, remove plug and drain. Every 1,000 miles, re-
move filter bowl and wash element.
(11) CLUTCH PILOT BEARING. At time of disassembly of clutch
for inspection, replacement or overhaul, clean and repack bearings with
GREASE, ball and roller bearing.
(12) CRANKING MOTOR. Every 6,000 miles, remove cranking
motor, clean and lubricate Bendix drive with 6 or 8 drops of OIL, lubri-
cating, preservative, special. When cranking motor is disassembled,
wash bushings and soak in OIL, engine, crankcase grade.
(13) DISTRIBUTOR. Every 2,000 miles, wipe distributor breaker
cam lightly with GREASE, general purpose, seasonal grade, and
lubricate breaker arm pivot with one or two drops of OIL, engine,
crankcase grade.
(14) BRAKE GOVERNOR. Every 20,000 miles, remove cover plate
on brake governor, located under hood, and lubricate the valve stem
with OIL, lubricating, preservative, special.
(15) WRECKER AIR COMPRESSOR CRANKCASE. Drain only when
compressor is hot. Refill to correct level. The Kellogg model has a
dip stick to determine proper oil level. The correct level for the
83
TM 9-811
26
Curtis model is to overflow level at filler plug. The DeVilbiss model
has an oil level glass.
(16) WRECKER AIR COMPRESSOR ENGINE CRANKCASE. Drain
only when engine is hot. Refill to level of filler plug on Johnson and
Briggs and Stratton engines.
(17) WRECKER AND WINCH SNATCH BLOCKS. Every 1,000 miles,
lubricate sheaves through fittings on snatch blocks with GREASE,
general purpose, seasonal grade.
(18) OILCAN POINTS. Every 1,000 miles, lubricate throttle and
accelerator linkage, power take-off control linkage, transfer case shift
linkage, transfer shaft, winch clutch control handle, ratchet and pawl on
winch boom, tow bar, wrecker block and tackle, hinges, latches, air
compressor rocker arm, pintle, wrecker controls and linkage with OIL,
engine, crankcase grade.
(19) RUBBER BUSHINGS. Every 1,000 miles, apply FLUID,
brake, hydraulic, to spring shackles and torque rod bushings. CAU-
TION: Do not use oil.
(20) POINTS REQUIRING No LUBRICATION SERVICE. Springs,
brake air compressor, clutch release bearing.
84
TM 9-811
27-28
Section VIII
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT STOWAGE ON VEHICLES
Paragraph
General .^ .. 27
Vehicle tools. 28
Vehicle equipment 29
Vehicle spare parts 30
Care of tools and equipment 31
27. GENERAL.
a. Each vehicle is equipped with a set of tools, equipment and spare
parts, which are adequate for making minor adjustments, changing
tires, removing wheels and other maintenance operations which may
be performed by the driver in the field.
28. VEHICLE TOOLS.
a. The following tools (one of each) are supplied with all Diamond
T 4-ton, 6x6 vehicles (fig. 37):
Tool Where Carried
BAG, tool Rear tool compartment*
HAMMER, ball peen, 16-oz Tool bag
PLIERS, 6-in Tool bag
SCREWDRIVER, 6-in. blade Tool bag
WRENCH, spark plug, w/handle,
14mm Tool bag
fWRENCH, water pump Tool bag
WRENCH, crescent, 12-in Tool bag
WRENCH, adjustable automotive, 15-in. Tool bag
WRENCH, open-end, %-in. and 7/ie-in. . . Tool bag
WRENCH, open-end, J/2-in. and l%2-in. . . Tool bag
WRENCH, open-end, %e-in. and Hie-in.. Tool bag
WRENCH, open-end, %-in. and 2%2-in.. . Tool bag
WRENCH, open-end, %-in. and %-in Tool bag
WRENCH, wheel bearing, front Rear tool compartment*
WRENCH, wheel bearing, rear Rear tool compartment*
WRENCH, wheel nut Rear tool compartment*
HANDLE, wheel nut wrench Rear tool compartment*
b. In addition, the following tool is supplied with Diamond T 4-ton,
6x6 cargo and ponton trucks only (fig. 38): /
Tool Where Carried
SCREWDRIVER, recessed head, No. 4.. Tool bag
*There is no rear tool compartment on the dump body, and so all items marked
with an asterisk are stowed in a carton in the cab.
|Not supplied with packless-type water pump.
85
TM 9-811
28
REAR WHEEL BEARING NUT WRENCH I
FRONT WHEEL BEARING NUT WRENCH J
TOOL BAG K
WHEEL NUT WRENCH L
WHEEL NUT WRENCH HANDLE M
OPEN END WRENCH, 3/4" x 7/8* N
G OPEN END WRENCH, 5/8" x 25/32" O
H OPEN END WRENCH, 9/16" x 11/16" P
OPEN END WRENCH, 1/2" x 19/32*
OPEN END WRENCH, 3/8" x 7/16*
SPARK PLUG WRENCH
PLIERS
ADJUSTABLE AUTOMOTIVE WRENCH
ADJUSTABLE CRESCENT WRENCH
BALL PEEN HAMMER
SCREW DRIVER
RA PD 304879
Figure 37Tools Supplied with aff 4-Ton, 6x6 Vehicles
86
TM 9-811
28-29
c. In addition, the following tools (one of each) are supplied with
Diamond T 4-ton, 6x6 vehicles equipped with the open-type cab
(fig. 38):
Tool Where Carried
SCREWDRIVER, recessed head, No. 2. . Tool bag
SCREWDRIVER, recessed head, No. 3. . Tool bag
d. In addition, the following tool is supplied with Diamond T 4-ton,
6x6 dump trucks only (fig. 38):
Tool Where Carried
WRENCH; cylinder plug (V2-in. square) Tool bag
e. In addition, the following tools (one of each) are supplied with
Diamond T 4-ton, 6x6 wrecker trucks only (fig. 38):
Tool Where Carried
WRENCH, open end, ê-in. and %e-in.
opening On compressor
WRENCH, socket head set screw
( Va-in. hex.) On compressor
29. VEHICLE EQUIPMENT.
a. All Diamond T 4-ton, 6x6 vehicles are equipped with the fol-
lowing materiel (fig. 39):
Number
Item Carried Where Carried
OILER, (1/2 pt) 1 Rear tool compartment*
EXTINGUISHER, fire (1 qt
carbon tetrachloride) 1 In cab
CRANK, starting 1 Rear tool compartment*
GUN, lubrication, Zerk (16 oz.) 1 Rear tool compartment*
JACK, hydraulic (5-ton),
w/handle 1 Rear tool compartment*
CHAIN, tire, front (set) 1 Right side compartment
CHAIN, tire, rear (sets) 2 Right side compartment
GAGE, tire-inflation 1 Tool bag
HOSE, tire-inflation (26V4 ft). . 1 Rear tool compartment*
HOSE, coupling 1 Rear tool compartment*
MANUAL, operator's 1 Rear tool compartment*
CATALOG, service parts 1 Rear tool compartment*
KEYS (tool compartment
right side and padlocks 2 In bag
KEYS, tachometer lock 3 In bag
WHEEL, spare, w/tire and tube. 2 Mounted on bodyf
PADLOCKS (spare tire and Tire carriers and tool
rear tool compartment) f compartment
*There is no rear tool compartment on the dump body, and so all items marked
with an asterisk are stowed in a carton in the cab.
fOnly one spare wheel is supplied with the dump truck.
$ Quantity is 3 for cargo truck, 5 for wrecker truck, 3 for ponton truck and none
for dump truck.
87
88
29
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
29
b. In addition, the following materiel is supplied with Diamond T
4-ton, 6x6 cargo, wrecker and ponton trucks only (winch-equipped)
(fig. 40):
Number
BLOCK, snatch 1 Right side compartment*
CHAIN, tow (20 ft x s/8-in. dia) 1 Right side compartment*
* Stowed in left body box'on wrecker vehicles.
c. In addition, the following materiel is supplied with Diamond T
4-ton, 6x6 cargo trucks only (fig. 41):
Number
BOWS, top 5 Stowed in cargo body
CURTAIN, end 2 Stowed in cargo body
SEATS, troop (sets) 2 Stowed in cargo body
STRAP, safety 1 Stowed in cargo body
TARPAULIN, body 1 Stowed in cargo body
d. In addition, the following materiel is supplied with Diamond T
4-ton, 6x6 wrecker trucks only (fig. 42):
Number
CHAIN, tow (20 ftxs/8-in. dia) 1 Left body box
CHAIN, tow, utility (16 ftx%e-
in. dia) 1 Left body box
CROWBAR (6 ft) 1 On body
SET, block and tackle 1
Includes:
Blocks 2 Left body box
Rope (300 ft1-in. dia)... 1 On body
TOOL SETS, pioneer (ax, pick,
mattock and shovel) 2 On top body boxes
COMPRESSOR, air (3 cu ft).. 1 On body
SET, ground anchor 1
Includes: .
Stakes 10 Right body box
Anchors 3 Right body box
Sledge hammer 1 Rear tool compartment
BAR, tow 1 Right body box
CLAMP, steering gear 2 Right body box
HEAD, tow bar 1 Right body box
TOOL SET, welder's 1
Includes:
Box, tool 1 Left body box
Brush, steel 1 Tool box
Chisel ( Vi-in. x 7-in.) 1 Tool box
Chisel (Vz-in-xe-in.) 1 Tool box
TM 9-811
29
A SPARE TIRES
B REAR TIRE CHAINS
C FRONT TIRE CHAINS
D HYDRAULIC JACK
E OIL CAN
t FIRE EXTINGUISHER
6 TIRE GAGE
H INFLATION HOSE
I SPARE TIRE LOCKS AND KEYS
J TACHOMETER LOCK KEYS
K OPERATOR'S MANUAL
L SERVICE PARTS CATALOGUE
M GREASE GUN
N CRANK
O JACK HANDLE
P TRAILER COUPLING HOSE
RA PD 304*76
Figure 39Equipment Supplied with all 4-Ton, 6x6 Vehicles
.1
Mumb.r
Carried
Item i
Chisel (%-in. x6-in.)
Where Carried
Tool box
Clamp, C- ( 1 Vt-in.)
Tool box
Clamp, C- (4-in.)
Tool box
File, flat ( 10-in.)
1*
Tool box
File, half-round (10-in.) . . .
File, mill (12-in.)
Tool box
Tool box
File, round ( 12-in.)
Tool box
Gloves, welder's (pr)
Goggles (^Dr^ .'
Tool box
Tool box
Hammer (32-oz ball peen)
Handle, tool ( 1 Va-in. dia) . .
Handle, tool (l^-in. dia).
Igniters (with 3 extra tips)
Tool box
Tool box
Tool box
Tool box
90
TM 9-811
29
SNATCH LOCK
RA PD 304878
Figaro 40Equipment Supplied with Vehicles
Equipped with Winch
Item
Pliers (6-in.) ,
Rule, folding (36-in.)
Wrench, crescent (8-in.)..
Wrench, monkey (12-in.),
Number
Carried
Where Carried
Tool box
Tool box
Tool box
Tool box
BODY TOP BOWS
TROOP SEATS
AND BODY SIDE
ASSEMBLY
TROOP SEATS
AND BODY SIDE
ASSEMBLY
Figure 41-
SAFETY STRAP
RA PD 313762
Equipment Supplied with Cargo Trucks Only
91
TM 9-811
29
A AIR COMPRESSOR UNIT
B AIR COMPRESSOR OPERATION
MANUAL
C ROPE FOR BLOCK AND TACKLE SET
D FIRE EXTINGUISHER
I OXYGEN HOSE
f ACETYLENE HOSE
6 WELDING INSTRUCTION BOOK
H ACETYLENE TANK
I OXYGEN TANK
J GROUND ANCHORS
K V TOW BAR
L SINGLE BLOCK FOR BLOCK AND
TACKLE SET
M DOUBLE BLOCK FOR BLOCK AND
TACKLE SET
N STEERING GEAR CLAMPS
O AIR COMPRESSOR HOSE
Figure 42Equipment Supplied
P SLEDGE HAMMER
O SNATCH BLOCKS
R GROUND ANCHOR STAKES
S BOOM DRUM CRANKS
T OXYGEN REGULATOR
U ACETYLENE REGULATOR
V TORCH
W WELDING TIPS
X CUTTING TIPS
Y TORCH WRENCH
Z PIONEER TOOL SET
AA CROW BAR
AB TOW CHAIN
AC TOW BAR HEAD
AD UTILITY TOW CHAIN
AI TOW BAR
AF WELDER'S TOOL SET
RA PD 304968
with Wrecker Trucks Only
92
TM 9-811
29
Number
It.m Carried Where Carried
Wrench, pipe (10-in.) 1 Tool box
Wrench, open-end, IVg-in.. . 1 Tool box
Wrench, ope*n-end, 3/i-in..
ê-in 1 Tool box
Wrench, acetylene torch... 1 Tool box
WELD SET, unit equipment 1
Includes:
Acetylene cylinder
(225cuft) 1 On body
Oxygen cylinder (200 cu ft) 1 On body
Torch Assembly: 1 Left body box
Acetylene hose ( 2 5 ft) 3 Left body box
Oxygen hose (25 ft) 3 Left body box
Acetylene regulator 1 Left body box
Oxygen regulator 1 Left body box
Torch 1 Left body box
Wrench, oxy-acetylene
torch 1 Left body box
Welding tips 5 Left body box
Cutting tips 3 Left body box
Welding instruction book. . . 1 Left body box
INSTRUCTIONS,
air compressor 1 Tied to air compressor
BAR, tow, V- 1 Right body box
BLOCK, snatch 2 Right body box
CRANK, boom 2 Right body box
EXTINGUISHER, fire
(carbon dioxide) 1 Right running board
HOSE, air 1 Tied on air compressor
e. In addition, the following materiel is supplied with Diamond T
4-ton, 6x6 ponton trucks only (fig. 43):
Number
BOWS, top 5 Stowed in ponton body
TARPAULIN, body 1 Stowed in ponton body
CURTAINS, end 2 Stowed in ponton body
STRAP, safety 1 Stowed in ponton body
SEATS, troop (sets) . 2 Stowed in ponton body
STAKE assembly, front 1 Stowed in ponton body
f. In addition, the following materiel is supplied with Diamond T
4-ton, 6 x 6-vehicles with the open type cab (fig. 44):
93
TM 9-811
29
BODY TOP BOWS
TROOP SEATS
AND BODY SIDE
ASSEMBLY
SAFETY STRAP
END CURTAIN
ROPE
RA PD 313761
Figure 43Equipment Supplied with Ponton Trucks Only
CAB
CAB
TOP BOW
TOP
RIGHT SIDE
CURTAIN
LEFT SIDE
CURTAIN
RA PD 313748
Figure 44Equipment Supplied with Vehicles with Open Type Cab
94
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Jz
95
29
ss
*5
*3
Cx
<o
_. X
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3<Sil
OU<
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TM 9-811
< u o u. e
TM 9-811
29-31
Number
TARPAULIN, top 1 Roll on top of windshield
or stow in cab compart-
ment
TARPAULIN, rear 1 Roll on top rear bow
CURTAINS, side 2 In cab compartmeut
RODS, curtain 2 In cab compartment
BOW, top 1 Lowers in saddle clamps
30. VEHICLE SPARE PARTS (fig. 45).
Number
BOX, spare parts 1 *
BELT, fan 2 Spare parts box
SET, tire valve cap 1 Spare parts box
SET, tire valve core 1 Spare parts box
BULB, blackout marker lamp... 1 Spare parts box
PINS, cotter (set) 1 Spare parts box
PIN, shear (winch vehicles only) 4 Spare parts box
PIN, cotter (for shear pins) 4 Spare parts box
PLUG, spark, w/gasket 1 Spare parts box
TAPE, friction (roll) 1 Spare parts box
WIRE, iron (roll) 1 Spare parts box
SEALED UNIT,
blackout tail lamp 1 Spare parts box
SEALED UNIT,
blackout stop and tail lamp... 1 Spare parts box
SEALED UNIT,
service stop and tail lamp 1 Spare parts box
31. CARE OF TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.
a. Tools and equipment supplied with these vehicles must be kept
clean and in good condition. Keep all of this materiel properly stowed
to facilitate its use. Replace all broken or damaged material as soon as
possible.
* Carried loose under seat in closed type cab, and is permanently attached in open
type cab.
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32
PART TWOVEHICLE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Section IX
FSMWO AND MAJOR UNIT ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT RECORD
Paragraph
FSMWO and major unit assembly replacement record 32
32. FSMWO AND MAJOR UMT ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT RECORD.
a. Description. Every vehicle is supplied with a copy of A.G.O.
Form No. 478, which provides a means of keeping a record of each
FSMWO completed or major unit assembly replaced. This form in-
cludes spaces for the vehicle name and U. S. A.-Registration Number,
instructions for use, and information pertinent to the work accom-
plished. It is very important that the form be used as directed, and that
it remain with the vehicle until the vehicle is removed from service.
b. Instructions for Use. Personnel performing modifications or
major unit assembly replacements must record clearly on the form a
description of the work completed, and must initial the form in the
columns provided. When each modification is completed, record the
date, hours and/or mileage, and FSMWO number. When major unit
assemblies, such as engines, transmissions, transfer cases, are replaced,
record the date, hours and/or mileage and nomenclature of the unit
assembly. Minor repairs and minor parts and accessory replacements
need not be recorded.
c. Early Modifications. Upon receipt by a third or fourth echelon
repair facility of a vehicle for modification or repair, maintenance per-
sonnel will record the FSMWO numbers of modifications applied prior
to the date of A.G.O. Form No. 478.
734619 O - 47"- 7 97
TM 9-811
33
Section X
ORGANIZATIONAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Paragraph
Special tools 33
33. SPECIAL TOOLS.
foUral Stock Mfr't.
Tools Number Number
EYE, engine-lifting, Va-in, 13-NC 41E-628 TEC 9-113
PULLER, clutch pilot bearing 41P-2906-15 J 164
PULLER, torque rod pins 41P-2956-8 TEC 6-428
WRENCH, engineers' 3/4-in 41W-1468-475 TEC 6-117
(opening each end, 15 and 60-
degree angle, internal and exter-
nal manifold nuts.)
98
TM 9-811
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Section XI
NEW VEHICLE RUN-IN TEST
Paragraph
Purpose 34
Correction of deficiencies 35
Run-in test procedures 36
34. PURPOSE.
a. When a new or reconditioned vehicle is first received at the
using organization it is necessary for second echelon personnel to de-
termine whether or not the vehicle will operate satisfactorily when
placed in service. For this purpose, inspect all accessories, subassem-
blies, assemblies, tools, and equipment to see that they are in place and
correctly adjusted. In addition, they will perform a run-in test of at
least 50 miles as directed in AR850-15, paragraph 25, table III, ac-
cording to procedures in paragraph 35 below.
35. CORRECTION OF DEFICIENCIES.
a. Deficiencies disclosed during the course of the run-in test will
be treated as follows:
(1) Correct any deficiencies within the scope of the maintenance
echelon of the using organization before the vehicle is placed in service.
(2) Refer deficiencies beyond the scope of the maintenance
echelon of the using organization to a higher echelon for correction.
(3) Bring deficiencies of serious nature to the attention of the
supplying organization.
36. RUN-IN TEST PROCEDURES.
a. Preliminary Service.
(1) FIRE; EXTINGUISHER. See that portable extinguisher is present
and in good condition. Test it momentarily for proper operation, and
mount it securely. On model 969A Wrecker, also examine CO2 ex-
tinguisher as above, but do not test delivery. If valves appear to have
been opened, report to proper authority.
(2 ) FUEL, OIL AND WATER. Fill fuel tank. Check crankcase oil and
coolant supply, and add as necessary to bring to correct levels. Allow
room for expansion in fuel tank and radiator. During freezing weather,
test value of antifreeze and add as necessary to protect cooling system
against freezing. CAUTION: // there is a tag attached to filler cap or
steering wheel concerning engine oil in crankcase, follow instructions
on tag before driving the vehicle.
(3) FUEL FILTER. Inspect fuel filter for leaks, damage and secure
mountings and connections. Drain filter sediment bowl. If any appreci-
able amount of water or dirt is present, remove bowl, and clean bowl
and element in dry-cleaning solvent. Also drain accumulated water or
dirt from bottom of fuel tank. Drain only until fuel runs clean.
TM 9-811
36
(4) BATTERIES. Make hydrometer and voltage test of batteries,
and level electrolyte to 3/g inch above plates, with distilled or clean
water, if necessary.
(5) Am CLEANERS AND BREATHER CAP. Examine carburetor and
air compressor air cleaners, and crankcase breather to see if they are in
good condition and secure. Remove elements, and wash thoroughly
in dry-cleaning solvent. Fill reservoirs to bead level with fresh oil, and
reinstall securely. Be sure all gaskets are in good condition, and that
ducts and air horn connections are tight.
(6) ACCESSORIES AND BELTS. See that all accessories, such as
carburetor, generator, regulator, cranking motor, water pump, fan,_oil
niters, and air compressor, are securely mounted. Make sure fan belts
are properly adjusted to have 1-inch finger pressure deflection in
center of longest span.
(7) ELECTRICAL WIRING. Examine all accessible wiring and con-
duits to see if they are in good condition, securely connected and prop-
erly supported.
(8) TIRES. See that all tires, including spare, are properly in-
flated to 65 pounds cool; that stems are in correct position, all valve
caps present and nngertight. Remove objects lodged in treads and
carcasses, and between duals, and inspect for damage.
(9 ) WHEEL AND FLANGE NUTS. See that all wheel mounting and
axle flange nuts are present and secure.
(10 ) FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Examine fenders, and running boards,
splash guards, and bumpers, for looseness or damage.
(11) TOWING CONNECTIONS. Examine all towing shackles and
pintle hook for looseness and damage, and see that pintle latch operates
properly and locks securely.
(12) BODY AND TARPAULINS. See that all cab and body mountings
are secure. Inspect attachments, hardware, glass, doors, tail gate and
release and locking mechanism, to see that they are in good condi-
tion, secure, and operate properly. See that cab soft top and cargo
body tarpaulins and curtains are properly installed, securely fastened
and not damaged. Dump bodies must be in proper alinement with
frame, and correctly assembled and mounted. Test hydraulic body
hoist for proper oil level, and that there are no oil leaks at pump,
cylinder or lines. Test operation of hoist. Test all hinges, locks, wind-
shield and window-lift mechanism, to see that they function satis-
factorily
(13) WINCH. Inspect winch for damage, secure mountings and oil
leaks. Test winch clutch mechanism for proper operation. Test drag
brake to see if it holds drum from spinning, and as cable is unwound;
inspect it for wear, damage, and adequate lubrication. Test winch
automatic brake by placing vehicle at top of steep incline and attach-
ing cable to another vehicle at bottom.'While drawing towed vehicle
uphill, release engine clutch; if towed vehicle backs downhill, brakes
need adjustment. Start lowering vehicle downhill with winch; throw out
engine clutch; if towed vehicle does not stop or drifts more than one or
100
TM 9-811
36
two inches, brakes need adjustment. See paragraph 159. After test,
rewind cable evenly and tightly on drum, and as winding, clean cable
thoroughly and apply a film of engine oil.
(14) LUBRICATE. Perform a complete lubrication of the vehicle,
covering all intervals, according to the instructions on the Lubrication
Guide, paragraph 26, except gear cases, wheel bearings, and other units,
lubricated in items 1 to 13. Check all gear case oil levels, and add as
necessary to bring to correct level; change only if condition of oil indi-
cates the necessity, or if gear oil is not of proper grade for existing
atmospheric temperature. NOTE: Perform items 15 to 18 during
lubrication.
(15) SPRINGS AND SUSPENSIONS. Inspect front shock absorbers,
front and rear springs, rear bogie suspension spring seats, and torque
rods to see if all are in good condition, correctly assembled and secure,
and not leaking lubricant excessively.
(16) STEERING LINKAGE. See that all steering arms, rods and con-
nections are in good condition and secure; and that gear case is securely
mounted and not leaking excessively.
(17) PROPELLER SHAFTS. Inspect all propeller shafts and universal
and slip joints to see if they are in good condition, correctly assembled,
alined, and not leaking excessively at seals. Be sure all assembly and
mpunting nuts or screws are tight.
(18) AXLE, TRANSFER AND STEERING HOUSING VENTS. See that all
vents are present, in good condition, and not clogged.
(19) CHOKE. Examine choke to be sure it opens and closes fully in
response to operation of choke button.
(20) ENGINE WARM-UP. Start engine, noting if cranking motor
action is satisfactory, and any tendency toward hard starting. Set hand
throttle to run engine at fast idle during warm-up. During warm-up
reset choke button so engine will run smoothly, and to prevent over-
choking and oil dilution.
(21) INSTRUMENTS.
(a) Oil Gage. Immediately after engine starts, observe if oil pres-
sure is satisfactory. Gage must show a minimum of 5 to 10 pounds at
idle speed, and 25 pounds at running speeds. Stop engine if pressure
is not indicated in 30 seconds.
(b) Ammeters. Main ammeter should show slight positive ( + )
charge. High charge may be indicated until generator restores to bat-
teries current used in starting. Auxiliary ammeter should show positive
(+ ) charge, indicating front battery is receiving charge.
(c) Temperature Gage. Engine temperature should rise gradually
during warm-up, to normal operating range, 160F to 180F.
(d) Viscometer. If the viscosity is not normal on gage, after engine
is warmed up and running slightly in excess of idle speed, it is an indica-
tion of improper grade of oil, a sludge condition, or dangerous crankcase
dilution.
(e) Fuel Gage. Gage should register "FULL" if tank has been filled.
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36
(f) Tachometer. Free pointer should register the engine speed in
revolutions per minute. Set hand should register and remain at highest
engine speed attained.
(g) Air Pressure Gage. During warm-up, air pressure should build
up to 105 pounds. Governor should cut off air from compressor at this
pressure, and should again cut in if pressure in lines and reservoirs is
reduced to 85 pounds. Warning indicator (buzzer) should sound at
pressure below 60 pounds.
(22) ENGINE CONTROLS. Observe if engine responds properly to
controls, and if controls operate without excessive looseness or binding.
(23) HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPERS. See that these items are
in good condition and secure. If tactical situation permits, test horn
for proper operation and tone. See if wiper arms will operate through
their full range, and that blade contacts glass evenly and firmly.
(24) GLASS AND REAR VIEW MIRRORS. Clean all body glass and
mirrors, and inspect for looseness and damage. Adjust rear view mirrors
for correct vision.
(25) LAMPS (LIGHTS) AND REFLECTORS. Clean lenses and inspect
all units for looseness and damage. If tactical situation permits, open
and close all light switches to see if lamps respond properly.
(26) LEAKS, GENERAL. Look under vehicle, and within engine com-
partment, for indications of fuel, oil, or coolant leaks. Trace any found
to source, and correct or report them.
(27) TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. Check tools and On Vehicle Stowage
Lists, paragraphs 27 through 31, to be sure all items are present, and
see that they are serviceable and properly mounted or stowed.
b. Run-in Test. Perform the following procedures (1) to (11)
inclusive during the road test of the vehicle. On vehicles which have
been driven 50 miles or more in the course of delivery from the sup-
plying to the using organization, reduce the length of the road test to
the least mileage necessary to make observations listed below.
CAUTION: Continuous operation of the vehicle at speeds approaching
the maximums indicated on the caution plate should be avoided during
the test.
(1) DASH INSTRUMENTS AND GAGES. Do not move vehicle until
engine temperature reaches 135F. Maximum safe operating temper-
ature is 200 F. Observe readings of oil gage, ammeters, temperature
gage, viscometer, fuel gage, tachometer, and air pressure gage, to be
sure they are indicating the proper function of the units to which they
apply. Also see that speedometer registers the vehicle speed and that
odometer records the total accumulating mileage.
(2) BRAKES: FOOT AND HAND. Test service air brakes to see if
they stop vehicle effectively, without side pull, chatter or squealing.
Be sure application valve closes when pedal pressure is released, and
that there is not an excessive drop in air pressure when brakes are
applied. The parking brake should hold vehicle on a reasonable in-
cline, with l/3 ratchet travel in reserve, and should lock securely in
applied position. CAUTION: Avoid long application of brakes until
102
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36
shoes have become seated, and do not apply lull pedal pressure except
for an emergency stop.
(3) CLUTCH. Observe if clutch operates smoothly without grab,
chatter or squeal on engagement, or slippage when fully engaged, under
load. See that pedal has 1 inch free travel before meeting resistance.
Do not ride clutch pedal at any time, and do not engage and disengage
new clutch severely or unnecessarily until driven and driving disks
have become properly worn in. NOTE: Adjust clutch only according
to paragraph 72.
(4) TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER. Gearshift mechanism should
operate easily and smoothly, and gears should operate quietly and not
slip out of mesh. Test front axle declutching, and power take-off mech-
anism (on vehicles so equipped) for proper operation.
(5) STEERING. Observe steering action for binding or looseness,
and note any excessive pull to one side, wander, shimmy or wheel
tramp. See that column bracket and wheel are secure.
(6) ENGINE. Be on the alert for any abnormal engine operating
characteristics or unusual noise, such as lack of pulling power or accel-
eration; backfiring, misfiring, stalling, overheating, or excessive exhaust
smoke. Observe if engine responds properly to all controls.
(7) . UNUSUAL NOISE. Be on the alert throughout road test for any
unusual noise from body and attachments, running gear, suspensions
or wheels, that might indicate looseness, damage, wear, inadequate
lubrication or under-inflated tires.
(8) HALT VEHICLE AT 10-MiLE INTERVALS FOR SERVICES (9) TO
(11) BELOW.
(9) AIR BRAKE SYSTEM LEAKS. With air pressure at governed
maximum (105 pounds) and brakes applied, stop engine. There should
not be an excessive drop in pressure in 1 minute.
(10) TEMPERATURES. Cautiously hand-feel each brake drum and
wheel hub for abnormal temperatures. Examine transmission, transfer
case, and differential housings for indications of overheating and ex-
cessive lubricant leaks at seals, gaskets or vents. NOTE: Transfer
case temperatures are normally higher than other gear cases.
(11) LEAKS. With engine running, and fuel, engine oil, and cooling
systems under pressure, look within engine compartment and under
vehicle for indications of leaks.
c. Upon completion of run-in test, correct or report any defi-
ciencies noted. Report general condition of vehicle to designated in-
dividual in authority
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37
Section XII
ORGANIZATION PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES
Paragraph
Second echelon preventive maintenance services 37
37. SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
SERVICES.
a. Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are
a preventive maintenance function of the using arm, and are the
responsibility of commanders of operating organization.
(1) FREQUENCY. The frequencies of the preventive maintenance
services outlined herein are considered a minimum requirement for
normal operation of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions such
as extreme temperatures, dusty or sandy terrain, it may be necessary
to perform certain maintenance services more frequently.
(2) FIRST ECHELON PARTICIPATION. The drivers should accom-
pany their vehicles and assist the mechanics while periodic second
echelon preventive maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily
the driver should present the vehicle for a scheduled preventive mainte-
nance service in a reasonably clean condition; that is, it should be
dry and not caked with mud or grease to such an extent that inspection
and servicing will be seriously hampered. However, the vehicle should
not be washed or wiped thoroughly clean, since certain types of de-
fects, such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts or assemblies
are more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or dusty.
(3) If instructions other than those contained in the general
procedures in subparagraph (4) or the specific procedures in subpara-
graph (5) which follow, are required for the correct performance of a
preventive maintenance service or for correction of a deficiency, other
sections of the vehicle operator's manual pertaining to the item in-
volved, or a designated individual in authority, should be consulted.
(4) GENERAL PROCEDURES. These general procedures are basic
instructions which are to be followed when performing the services on
items listed in the specific procedures. NOTE: The second echelon
personnel must be thoroughly trained in these procedures so that they
will apply them automatically.
(a) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to correct
deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean, correctly
installed, properly lubricated and adjusted.
(b) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the
lubricant should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the
seal. When the new seal is a leather seal, it should be soaked in SAE
No. 10 engine oil (warm if practicable) for at least 30 minutes. Then,
the leather lip should be worked carefully by hand before installing
the seal. The lip must not be scratched or marred.
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TM 9-811
37
(c) The general inspection of each item applies also to any sup-
porting member or connection, and usually includes a check to see
whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or
excessively worn. The mechanics must be thoroughly trained in the
following explanations of these terms.
1. The inspection for "good condition" is usually an external visual
inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond safe or
serviceable limits. The term good condition is explained further by the
following terms: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken
or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or cut
2. The inspection of a unit to see that it is "correctly assembled"
is usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its normal
assembled position in the vehicle.
3. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is "secure", is usually
an external visual examination, a hand-feel, or a pry-bar check for
looseness. Such an inspection should include any brackets, lock washers,
lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.
4. "Excessively worn" will be understood to mean worn, close to
or beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not re-
placed before the next scheduled inspection.
(d) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item
numbers in the columns which show the interval at which the services
are to be performed, and show that the parts or assemblies are to re-
ceive certain mandatory services. For example, an item number in one
or both columns opposite a procedure, means that the actual servicing
of the object must be performed. The special services include:
1. Adjust. Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with the
pertinent section of the vehicle operator's manual, special bulletins, or
other current directives.
2. Clean. Clean units of the vehicle with dry-cleaning solvent to
remove excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After the
parts are cleaned, rinse them in clean fluid and dry them thoroughly.
Take care to keep the parts clean until reassembled, and be certain to
keep cleaning fluid away from rubber or other material which it will
damage. Clean the protective grease coating from new parts, since this
material is not a good lubricant.
3. Special lubrication. This applies to lubrication operations that
do not appear on the vehicle Lubrication Guide and to items that do
appear on such charts, but which should be performed in connection
with the maintenance operations if parts have to be disassembled for
inspection or service.
4. Serve. This usually consists of performing special operations,
such as replenishing battery water, draining and refilling units with oil,
and changing the oil filter cartridge.
5. Tighten. All tightening operations should be performed with
sufficient wrench torque (force on the wrench handle) to tighten the
unit according to good mechanical practice. Use torque-indicating
wrench where specified. Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads or
cause distortion. Tightening will always be understood to include the
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TM 9-811
37
correct installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins provided
to secure the tightening.
(e) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete
preventive maintenance procedures at one time, they can sometimes
be handled in sections, planning to complete all operations within the
week if possible. All available time at halts and in bivouac areas must
be utilized if necessary to assure that maintenance operations are
completed. When limited by the tactical situation, items with special
services in the columns should be given first consideration.
(f) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that
follow are identical with those outlined on WJ5. A.G.O. Form No. 461,
which is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Wheeled
and Half-track Vehicles. Certain items on the work sheet that do not
apply to this vehicle are not included in the procedures in this manual.
In general, the numerical sequence of items on the work sheet is fol-
lowed in the manual procedures, but in some instances there is deviation
for conservation of the mechanic's time and effort.
(5) SPECIFIC PROCEDURES. The procedures for performing each
item in the 1000 miles (monthly) and 6000 miles (six-month) mainte-
nance procedures are described in the following chart. Each page of
the chart has two columns at its left edge corresponding to the 6000
mile and the 1000 mile maintenance respectively. Very often it will
be found that a particular procedure does not apply to both scheduled
maintenances. In order to determine which procedure to follow, look
down the column corresponding to the maintenance due, and wherever
an item number appears, perform the operations indicated opposite
the number.
ROAD TEST
NOTE: When the tactical situation does not permit a
full road test, perform those items which require little
or no movement of the vehicle. When a road test is
possible, it should be for 3 miles, but not over 5 miles.
Before-operation Service. Perform the Before-opera-
tion Service outlined in paragraph 23.
Air Pressure. Build up air pressure to 70 pounds. Note
action of buzzer (should operate from 0 to 60 pounds,
plus or minus 6 pounds). Increase pressure, and observe
when governor cuts off pressure (must be at 90 to 105
pounds). Open inflation fitting cut-off cock, and in-
crease pressure to test safety valve (should blow off at
140 to 150 pounds). Exhaust pressure to 100 pounds
by brake application, and then close inflation fitting
shut-off cock.
Dash Instruments and Gages.
OIL PRESSURE GAGE. Normal readings of gage are 5 to
10 pounds at idle, and 25 pounds minimum at running
speeds with engine warm. Reading will be higher before
engine warms up.
MAINTENANCE
HMIffik
INIMik
106
TM 9-811
37
MAINTENANCE
MM Mb 1M Mb
AMMETERS. After engine starts and is running at 800
to 900 revolutions per minute (fast idle), ammeters
may show a high positive (+) charge rate for short
period, until battery current used in starting is re-
stored, then a zero or slight positive (+) charge with
lights and accessories turned off.
FUEL GAGE. Gage must register approximate amount
of fuel in tank.
TEMPERATURE GAGE. Temperature reading should in-
crease gradually as engine warms up to 160Ftol80F
operating temperature.
TACHOMETER. Observe whether tachometer indicates
engine revolutions per minute without undue noise or
fluctuation.
AIR BRAKE PRESSURE GAGE. Gage should show 70-
pounds pressure before starting vehicle.
VISCOSITY GAGE. Gage may indicate HEAVY during
warm-up period, but must indicate IDEAL after warm-
up. THIN indication shows need for oil change.
Horns, Mirrors and Windshield Wipers. If tactical
situation permits, test tone of horns. Examine rear-
view mirror for good condition; clean and aim. Test
windshield wipers for good condition, good contact, and
operation over full arc.
Brakes: Foot, Hand, and Trailer. Test foot brake
for quick, smooth stop and emergency stop. There
should be no side pull, noise, or chatter. Allowable free
pedal travel is J^ to 1 inch. Test operation of hand con-
trol lever, and observe trailer brake operation (if trailer
is attached). Observe pressure gage and listen for open
trailer valves or line leaks during road test. Test
emergency brake for holding on reasonable grade and
for one-third reserve ratchet travel.
Clutch. Test clutch pedal for free travel of 1 to
inches. Clutch must not drag, squeal, chatter, grab, or
slip during operation.
Transmission and Transfer. Test both units through
entire gear range. Observe units for unusual vibrations
(loose mountings). Declutching and lever action must
be smooth and easy. Watch for gear clashing, unusual
noise, or jumping out of mesh.
Steering. Test free play (^ to 1 inch at rim of wheel)
allowed at straight ahead position; there must be no
binding, wander, shimmy, or abnormal side pull. Ob-
serve steering column and wheel for good condition and
security of attachment.
Engine. Observe for smooth idle without stalling, satis-
factory acceleration, and adequate power in all gear
ranges. Listen for unusual noises. Look for excessive
107
TM 9-811
37
MAINTENANCE
Mill IMMIto
10
12
14
13
16
17
18
18
21
19
19
10
12
14
13
16
17
18
21
19
exhaust smoke. Test governor operation with vehicle in
second gear; tachometer should read 2300 revolutions
per minute and speedometer 9 miles per hour in high
transfer range. Reset tachometer set hand to zero after
governor test, if key is available.
UnusualNoises (Attachments, Cab, Body, Chassis).
Listen for unusual noises which may indicate damaged,
defective or loose parts, and inadequate lubrication.
Air Brake System Leaks. (This item, and items 13,
14, and 16 should be performed immediately following
road test, with vehicle stationary. Stop engine and test
air brake system for leaks (par. 123), with gage at 95
to 105 pounds; brakes off, leakage should not exceed
5 pounds in 10 minutes; brakes on, leakage should not
exceed 10 pounds in 10 minutes.
Leaks. Examine beneath hood, under engine, radiator,
and tank, and ground under vehicle for evidences of
leaks of oil, water, or fuel.
Temperatures. Feel brake drums, hubs, axles, trans-
mission, and transfer for excessive heat. Note any brake
drum noticeably cooler than the other drums as an
indication of an inoperative brake.
Gear Oil Level and Leaks. Examine gear cases (axle
differentials, transmission, and transfer) for correct
lubricant level, within Yi inch of plug when cold, to
filler-plug level when hot. Examine cases for leaks and
correct or report.
RAISE VEHICLE-BLOCK SAFELY
Unusual Noises. Investigate and correct or report
deficiencies noted during road test in any of the fol-
lowing: engine, fan belt, accessories, transmission, trans-
fer, shafts and joints, axles, and wheel bearings.
Cylinder Head and Gasket. Examine for good con-
dition of head and gasket. Observe for indications of
water or compression leaks.
TIGHTEN. Tighten cylinder head nuts with torque indi-
cating wrench to 60 foot-pounds if copper asbestos
gaskets are used, 75 foot-pounds if steel asbestos
gaskets are used.
Compression Test. Make compression test and record
on work sheet. Compression standard is 95 to 110
pounds, with all cylinders measuring within 10 pounds.
Valve Mechanism. Make sure valve gasket covers are
tight. Correct valve adjustment if noisy or if engine
TM 9-811
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tappets, and lock nuts for good condition and security.
Observe lubrication and make certain gaskets are tight.
ADJUST. Adjust cam and idler shaft end play (par. 64).
Spark Plugs, Inspect tops of insulators for cracks or
breakage, and leakage around insulators or gaskets.
Wipe tops of insulators with cloth. Replace unservice-
able plugs.
REMOVE. Remove, clean, and adjust spark plug gaps
to 0.027 inch. CAUTION: Bend grounded electrode
only. Do not overtighten on installing.
Batteries. Examine cases, posts, cell straps, and caps
for good condition and security. Observe for leaks.
Wash and dry cases, if dirty or corroded. Make hydrom-
eter check and record on work sheets. Reading below
1.225 (corrected for temperature) indicates need for re-
charge. CAUTION: Report any reddish brown dis-
coloration of electrolyte. Fill cells to ^ inch above
plates with clean water. Lightly grease terminals and
posts, and tighten terminal bolts and mounting bolts,
if loose. Clean and paint battery carriers, if corroded.
Make high-rate discharge test if hydrometer reading is
above 1.225. Report if difference in cells is greater than
30 percent.
Crankcase Leaks and Oil Level. Examine crankcase
for leaks with engine running. Stop engine and test oil
level. Drain and refill crankcase.
Oil Filters and Lines. Inspect these items for good
condition, security, and leaks.
CLEAN AND SERVE. When due, remove filter cartridges,
clean cases, install new cartridges and gaskets, and
tighten cover securely.
Radiator. Examine core for obstructions, and clean,
if necessary. Examine for leaks in core, tanks, and hose.
Inspect filler cap pressure valve for operation and steam
relief tube to determine if clear. Record antifreeze
hydrometer reading on work sheet.
TIGHTEN. Tighten loose radiator core, shell mountings
and hose clamps.
Water Pump, Fan, and Shroud. Examine these
items for good condition, correct assembly, and security.
Inspect water pump for leaks. Tighten any loose con-
nections.
CLEAN. Clean out bottom of shroud if dirt has accu-
mulated.
Generator, Generator Ventilating Fan, Starter,
and Switch. Examine these units for good condition,
secure mounting, and tight wiring connections.
CLEAN. Inspect and clean (if required) commutator
brushes with 2/0 flint paper, and blow out dirt with
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compressed air. Examine brushes for freedom of move-
ment in holders. Inspect connections for good condition
and security.
Air Compressor. Inspect compressor and connecting
water and air lines to see that they are in good condi-
tion and without leaks. Examine compressor mounting
gasket for oil leaks. Inspect alinement and secure
mounting of compressor; tighten, if necessary.
SERVICE. Adjust unloader valve clearance to 0.010
inch to 0.015 inch between top of valves and adjusting
screws.
Drive Belts and Pulleys. Inspect drive belts for good
condition. Inspect fan belts for condition and adjust-
ment of one-inch deflection. Inspect pulleys and hubs
for good condition and secure mounting.
Tachometer Drive and Adapter. Inspect unit fqr
security of mounting and good condition of sheath.
Distributor. Examine distributor cap and rotor for
cracks, shorts, or burns. Clean cap and rotor. Inspect
points for 0.020-inch gap. Inspect shaft by hand-feel
for looseness. Test action of centrifugal advance by
turning rotor with fingers and releasing.
CLEAN. Remove, clean, dry, relubricate, and reinstall
distributor if unserviceably dirty. Dress or replace
points if pitted.
ADJUST. Adjust breaker points to 0.020-inch gap.
Coil and Wiring. Examine coil and wires for good
condition and secure mounting. Clean high-tension
wiring.
Manifolds. Examine exhaust and intake manifolds
for leaks.
TIGHTEN. Tighten manifold stud nuts.
Air Cleaners. Remove, clean, and reoil oil bath cleaner
element of engine air cleaner. Clean out reservoir and
replenish oil; reassemble cleaner. Remove air cleaners
of vehicle air compressor and clean, reoil, and install.
Breather Cap. Clean and service oil filler and cleaner.
Carburetor. Inspect carburetor for good condition,
correct assembly, and secure mounting. Examine con-
trol linkage for wear. See that controls choke is in open
fully, that throttle valve opens fully when accelerator
is fully depressed and that governor seal is intact. Re-
move inlet fitting and clean screen.
Fuel Filters and Lines. Remove element and bowl
from fuel filter in line between gas tank and fuel pump.
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Clean element in dry-cleaning solvent and dry with
compressed air. Do not use high pressure as it may
damage disks. Inspect gasket and connections for leaks.
Fuel Pumps. Inspect fuel pump and line for good
condition, secure attachment, and leaks. Clean fuel
pump filter bowl, and inspect gasket for leaks.
SERVICE. Attach fuel pressure test gage to outlet side
of pump and test pressure; normal pressure is 3 to 4J^
pounds.
Cranking Motor. Test cranking motor button for
operation. Observe cranking motor operation for un-
usual noise or slow cranking speed.
Leaks. Examine ground beneath vehicle for evidence
of water, oil, or fuel leaks. Examine cooling system,
crankcase, oil lines, fuel tank, and fuel lines for leaks.
Trace leaks to source and correct.
Ignition Timing. Check ignition timing, using neon
light method. Test operation of spark control.
Engine Idle and Vacuum Test. Inspect engine for
smooth idle at 500 revolutions per minute. Adjust idle
speed and mixture with use of vacuum gage. Test for
defective valves or gaskets, poor piston ring sealing, or
restrictions in carburetor, air cleaner, or exhaust.
Regulator Unit. Inspect unit for good connections,
good condition, and secure mounting.
TEST. Test voltage and current regulators and cutout
for control of generator output, using low-voltage cir-
cuit tester. CAUTION: Test only after regulator
has reached normal operating temperature and
with battery in fully charged condition.
CHASSIS, BODY, AND ATTACHMENTS
Tires and Rims. Inspect valve stems and caps for
good condition, 180 degrees opposed, and valve caps
for presence and security. Inspect tires for cuts, bruises,
breaks, blisters, irregular wear, flat spots, cupping,
feather edges, or one-sided wear. Determine and cor-
rect mechanical deficiencies causing unusual wear, or
report. Wheel positions of tires showing irregular wear
should be changed, front to rear, and vice versa. Re-
move embedded glass, nails, or stones. Directional and
nondirectional tires should not be mounted on same
vehicle. Directional tires should be mounted so that
"V" of chevron points up on front wheels and down
on rear wheels. With tires properly inflated, inspect for
matching according to over-all circumference (%-in.
variation permissible). Install spare wheel and tire on
one of the hubs, and put replaced tire and wheel on
spare tire carrier to keep spare in use. Inspect carrier
for good condition and security. When tire is mounted
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on carrier on cargo and ponton trucks, bottom of tire
should ride on floor or bracket to take strain off sup-
port. Inspect rims and lock rings for good condition
and secure mounting of rings.
TIGHTEN. Tighten all wheel nuts securely.
Rear Brakes. Remove rear wheels and drums, clean
drums and supports, remove grease, and inspect for
good condition, secure mounting, excessive wear, or
scoring. Inspect cams and shafts for good condition.
Rear Brake Shoes. Inspect linings through inspection
holes for wear and possibility of rivets scoring drums
within next 1000 miles of operation. If linings must be
replaced, remove all wheels and service all the brakes
alike. Clean, lubricate, and adjust all removed bear-
ings, and adjust brakes. Similar inspection of brake
linings must be made if vehicle has recently been oper-
ated in deep water, mud, loose sand, or dirt which
may have entered drum.
INSPECT (drums removed). Inspect brake linings for
good condition, security of attachment and good wear-
ing contact with drums. Linings must be free of lubri-
cant and not excessively worn. See that brake shoes
are in good condition, properly secured and guided by
anchor pins, and properly returned against cams by
retracting springs. Clean dust from drums and linings
with brush, cloth, or compressed air.
ADJUST. If needed, adjust slack adjusters to give 0.010-
0.015-inch clearance at toe end of each shoe (par. 124).
Torque Rods. Examine rods for good condition and
secure mounting. Make sure torque rod pins are tight
and all bolts and rivets holding torque brackets are
tight.
Rear Spring Seats and Bearings. Inspect spring
clips for presence, good condition, and tightness. Make
sure spring seat is tight against spring by tightening
U-bolts and hex clamp studs on spring seats, if neces-
sary.
LUBRICATE. If due, lubricate rear spring seats according
to Lubrication Guide. Tighten spring seat bearing side-
play, if road test has indicated necessity.
Rear Wheels. Inspect to see that rear wheels are in
good condition. Revolve them and observe if they have
excessive run-out. Without removing wheels, revolve
and observe for evidence of looseness of adjustment,
and damaged or dry wheel bearings. Inspect drive
flanges and around brake supports and drums for lu-
bricant leaks. Tighten drive flange nuts. If vehicle has
recently been operated in deep water which may have
entered wheel bearings, remove one wheel to inspect
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lubricant for contamination and brake lining for ex-
cessive wear. Clean and lubricate bearing of removed
wheel before reinstalling. Service other wheels likewise
if contamination is found.
SERVICE. Remove wheels and disassemble bearings and
oil seals. Clean thoroughly and inspect rollers, cages,
and races for good condition. See that cups are secure.
Examine machined surfaces, on which bearings are
mounted, for good condition. Relubricate wheel bear-
ings, install, and adjust.
Front Brakes. Clean external dirt and grease from
drums and supports. Examine air hose, chambers, and
slack adjusters for good condition and secure mounting.
INSPECT. Remove wheels and drums. Examine drums
for excessive wear or scoring. Tighten brake support
and drum mounting bolts securely. Examine backing
plate for alinement and distortion. Inspect cams and
shafts for good condition.
Front Brake Shoes. Inspect linings through inspec-
tion holes for wear and possibility of rivets scoring
drums within next 1000 miles of operation. If linings
must be replaced, remove front wheels and service both
wheels alike. Clean, lubricate, and adjust all removed
bearings, and adjust brakes. Similar inspection must be
made if vehicle has recently been operated in deep
water, mud, loose sand, or dirt which may have entered
drum.
SERVICE (Drums removed). Inspect brake linings for
good condition, security of attachment, and good wear-
ing contact with drums. Linings must be free of lubri-
cant and not excessively worn. See that brake shoes
are in good condition, properly secured and guided by
anchor pins, and properly returned against cams by re-
tracting springs. Clean dust from drums and linings
with brush, cloth, or compressed air.
ADJUST. If needed, adjust slack adjusters and anchor
pins to give 0.015-inch clearance at heel, and 0.010-
0.015-inch clearance at the toe of each shoe (par. 124).
Steering Knuckles. Examine steering knuckle hous-
ing and steering arm for good condition. Observe
whether outside seal is in good condition and secure.
SERVICE. Remove constant velocity joint, clean, inspect,
lubricate and replace.
Front Springs. Examine for good condition, correct
assembly, and secure mounting. Observe for excessive
sag. Tighten U-bolts securely.
Steering (Arms, Tie Rod, Drag Link, Seals, Pit-
man Arm, Gear Column, and Wheel). Examine
for good condition, correct and secure assembly, and
mounting. Examine steering gear case for leaks.
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TIGHTEN. Tighten Pitman arm shaft nut, steering gear
case assembly, and mounting nuts or screws securely.
CAUTION: Loosen steering column bracket when
tightening steering case mounting nuts so as not
to distort the column.
Front Shock Absorbers and Links. Examine shock
absorber bodies and links for good condition, security,
and fluid leaks.
SERVICE. Fill shock absorber bodies with specified fluid,
disconnect link, work arm several times, and add fluid.
Repeat operation several times until all air is expelled
and reservoir is full. Test to see that action is normal
(must offer resistance in both directions).
Front Wheels. Inspect wheels for good condition. Re-
volve and observe for excessive run-out, dry, damaged,
or loose wheel bearings. Inspect drive flanges, and
around brake supports and drums for lubricant leaks.
Tighten drive flange nuts. If vehicle has recently been
operated in deep water which may have entered wheel
bearings, remove one wheel to inspect lubricant for
contamination and brake lining for excessive wear.
Clean and lubricate bearing of removed wheel before
reinstalling.
SERVICE. Remove wheels and disassemble bearings and
oil seals; clean thoroughly and inspect rollers, cages,
and races for good condition. See that cups are secure.
Examine machined surfaces, on which bearings are
mounted, for good condition. Relubricate wheel bear-
ings, install, and adjust.
Front Axle. If front axle appears out of line, measure
distance from front spring eyebolt to center of axle
spring pad on each side. This distance should be about
the same on each side. Inspect axle housing for leaks
and pinion shaft for excessive end play and leaks. Clean
axle housing vent thoroughly.
Front Propeller Shaft (Joints and Alinement,
Seals and Flanges). Inspect shafts for good condi-
tion. Make sure assembly and mountings are correct
and secure. Inspect U-joints for alinement and excessive
wear. Slip joint should be free, not excessively worn,
and well lubricated. Seals should not leak excessively.
TIGHTEN. Tighten all U-joint assembly and companion
flange bolts securely.
Engine. Inspect mountings of engine for good condi-
tion and security. Tighten any loose mounting bolts.
Remove oil or grease from rubber mountings. Examine
ground straps for firm attachment.
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Hand brake. Inspect hand brake pawl ratchet for
good condition and security. Brake lever should have
% of travel distance in reserve when applied. Make
sure that brake disk is not scored or oily, and that
brake lining is not worn thin, or oil-soaked.
ADJUST. Clearance between brake disk and lining
should be l/& inch. (Par. 136.)
Clutch Pedal. Test free travel (1 to 1^ inches normal).
Inspect pedal for secure mounting and operating link-
age for good condition and security. See that return
spring is intact and has sufficient tension.
ADJUST. Adjust clutch pedal free travel to 1 to 1H
inches.
Brake Pedal. Allowable free pedal travel is % to 1
inch. Inspect brake linkage for good condition and se-
cure attachment. See that return spring is intact and
has sufficient tension.
Air Brake Application Valve. Examine valve for
leaks and loose linkage.
Air Brake Reservoirs. Examine reservoirs for secure
mounting and air leaks. Drain both reservoirs.
Transmission. Inspect transmission case for good
condition, seals and gaskets for oil leaks, and control
linkage for good condition, proper connection, and
security.
TIGHTEN. Tighten all transmission and power take-off
mounting and external assembly bolts and cap screws
securely.
Transfer. Inspect case for good condition and security
of mountings, and seals for leaks. Be sure transfer case
breather plate is clean. Tighten mountings and external
assembly nuts and screws securely.
Rear Propeller Shafts. Inspect in same manner as
item 62.
TIGHTEN. Tighten the U-joint and companion flange
bolts securely.
TM 9-811
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Fuel Tanks, Fittings, and Lines. Examine these
items for good condition and secure mounting. Inspect
fuel tank cap for defective gasket or plugged vent. See
that cap fits securely on filler neck. Look for leaks.
Brake Lines. Examine lines along frame, axles, and
leads for damage and secure attachment.
Exhaust Pipes and Muffler. Examine units for good
condition and security of attachment. Look for leaks
at joints and muffler. Examine tail pipe for obstruction.
Vehicle Lubrication. On any unit where disassembly
was necessary for inspection, lubrication must be per-
formed unless vehicle is to be deadlined for repair of
that unit. If due, lubricate all points of vehicle and
gun mounts in accordance with instructions in this
manual, the Lubrication Guide, and current bulletins
or directives, and the following instructions: use only
clean lubricant and keep all lubricant .containers cov-
ered. Replace missing or damaged lubrication fittings,
flexible lines, vents, and plugs.
Toe-in and Turning Stops. Test toe-in with gage.
Specified limits are He to % inch. Examine wheel stops
for presence and for security of weld. Turn front wheels
in both directions to see that they engage stops, and
that the tires clear all parts of vehicle in this position.
Winch (Clutch, Brake, Drive, Shear Pin for Front
Winch, Cable, and Guides). Inspect winch for good
condition, correct assembly, and security. See that
clutch moves freely and latched securely, and that drag
brake linings are in good condition, secure, and cor-
rectly adjusted. Inspect automatic brake to see that
lining is secure and not excessively worn. Inspect pro-
peller shaft in same manner as in item 62; see that
proper shear pin is installed, in good condition, and
secure. See that oil level in worm gear case is up to
filler plug. Unwind cable and inspect for broken or
frayed strands, and for flat or rusty spots.
CLEAN AND SERVE. If due, clean and lubricate cable and
drain worm gear case and refill to correct level.
Tractor to Trailer Brake Hose, Wiring, and Con-
nections. Examine these items for good condition and
secure fastening.
Hoist. Inspect hoist for security of mounting of drive
cylinder and pump. Inspect cylinder for oil leaks and
oil level (inspect level when cylinder is in erect posi-
tion), and refill as required.
Lamps (Lights). Test to see that switches and all
lights operate properly. See that foot switch controls
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the headlight beams, and that they are properly
dimmed. Inspect lights for good condition and security,
and check for dirty and broken lenses or discolored
reflectors.
ADJUST. Aim headlight beams.
Safety Reflectors. Inspect reflectors for presence, se-
curity, and good condition.
Front Bumper, Tow Hooks and Brush Guard. In-
spect to see that these units are in good condition and
correctly assembled to brackets.
Hood. See that hood hinges, fasteners, and props are
in good condition, secure, and lubricated.
Front Fenders and Running Boards. Inspect for
good condition and security.
Cab (Doors, Hardware, Class, Seats, Upholstery
and Trim, Floor Boards, Ventilators, and Map
Compartment). Inspect these items for good condi-
tion. Clean where necessary. CAUTION: Avoid get-
ting water on floorboards of cab where it might
get into cranking motor switch. Water can cause
switch to become inoperative.
Circuit Breaker and Fuse Block. Connections must
be tight. Replace defective circuit breakers.
Splash Guards. See that they are in good condition
and secure.
Body (Floor, Bows, Tops, Troop Seats, Tarpaulins,
End Curtains, Tail Gate, and Chains). Inspect
these items for good condition and security. See that
curtain and tarpaulin ropes are properly fastened. In-
spect wood body bolts, and tighten if required.
Rear Bumper and Pintle Hook. Inspect units for
good condition and security. Test operation of pintle
and latch. Observe whether lock pin is secured with a
chain. Lubricate pintle shaft.
Paint and Markings. Examine for good condition and
legibility of markings. Repaint bright spots that might
cause reflections.
Radio Bonding (Suppressors, Filters, Condensers,
Shielding, and Bronze Knife-switch Clip Bonds).
Examine these items to see if their connections are in
good condition, clean and secure, and whether all items
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TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Tools (Vehicle and Pioneer). Check against stowage
list, Section VIII in this manual, to see that they are
all present, in good condition, clean, and properly
stowed or securely mounted. Any tools mounted on
outside of vehicle should have bright surfaces painted
to eliminate glare or reflection.
Fire Extinguisher. Inspect small fire extinguisher in
cab for presence and secure mounting, and check for
full charge by shaking. See whether seal is intact on
COj fire extinguisher (on wrecker). Full charge of COi
extinguisher is determined by weighing; see proper
weights marked on extinguisher.
Decontaminator. Inspect unit for good condition,
full charge, and secure attachment. Test for charge by
shaking. Refer to tag for date of last recharge.
First Aid Kit. Inspect for good condition and presence
of all items. See list on box. Report deficiencies im-
mediately.
Publications and Form No. 26. Vehicle and equip-
ment operator's manuals, Lubrication Guide, and
Standard Accident Report Form No. 26 should be
present, legible, and properly stowed.
Traction Devices (Chains). Inspect chains and con-
nector links for good condition, cleanliness, excessive
wear, protection against rust, and proper stowage.
Spare Shear Pins, Bulbs and Parts. See that pre-
scribed number and sizes of items are present, in good
condition, and properly stowed.
Fuel and Water Cans and Brackets. See that cans
are in good condition and secure and that caps fit
tightly and are secured to can with a chain. Examine
cans for leaks.
Modification (FSMWO's Completed). Organiza-
tional maintenance records must be checked to see that
all Field Service Modification Work Orders pertaining
to the vehicle have been completed.
Final Road Test. Make final road test, rechecking
items 2 to 15 inclusive. Be sure to recheck the trans-
mission, transfer case, and all driving axles to see that
lubricant is at the correct level and not leaking. Con-
fine road test to minimum distance necessary to make
satisfactory observations. Correct or report all defi-
TM 9-811
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Section XIII
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Paragraph
Introduction 38
Engine -. 39
Starting system 40
Ignition system 41
Fuel system 42
Cooling system 43
Lubricating system 44
Generating system 45
Clutch 46
Transmission - 47
Transfer case 48
Propeller shafts 49
Axles 50
Brakes 51
Steering 52
Winch 53
Wrecker equipment 54
Air compressor unit 55
Dump pump and hoist 56
38. INTRODUCTION.
a. Most troubles are noticeable with the-vehicle in motion, and
it is the mark of an alert driver that he notice anything unusual in the
performance of the truck. The instruments on the dash will assist the
driver in this diagnosis, and with experience, any change in the rhythm
of the vehicle will be noticed. Study the usual symptoms of the more
common troubles, and think them over to their root before attempting
any adjustments.
b. Trouble shooting procedures for the entire vehicle are given
in this section. To trace a trouble to its source go through this section
to the observed symptom, and follow the procedure indicated or as
outlined in the paragraph reference.
c. Parts of this section are in chart form and parts of it are in narra-
tive form. The chart is a quick reference to isolate a trouble to a system
or unit, while the narrative portions give additional information to
isolate a fault within a system, or to remedy the trouble.
39. ENGINE.
a. Instructions. Step b of this paragraph is the trouble shooting
chart for the engine and engine accessory troubles. Step c gives simple
tests to determine the mechanical condition of the engine. References
in step b refer to step c for engine mechanical troubles or to pertinent
paragraphs in this section for system troubles. Lubrication system
troubles are discussed in paragraph 44.
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b. Trouble Shooting Chart.
(1) CRANKING MOTOR WILL NOT CRANK ENGINE.
(a) Lights of Vehicle Stay Bright When Starting Switch is Closed.
An open circuit may be present in the starting system. Refer to para-
graph 40.
(b) Lights of Vehicle Go Very Dim or Out When Starting Switch
is Closed. If the battery is discharged, replace. Refer to paragraph 101.
(c) Cranking Motor Hums When Switch is Closed but Engine Does
Not Turn Over. Replace cranking motor. If trouble continues, notify
higher authority.
(2) CRANKING MOTOR CRANKS ENGINE BUT ENGINE WILL NOT
START.
(a) No Fuel Reaching Carburetor as Evidenced By No Fuel Flow-
ing From Fuel Line When Disconnected From Carburetor and Engine
is Cranked With Ignition Switch Off. Open fuel tank valve, fill tank
if necessary.
(b) Excessive Amount of Fuel Being Drawn Into Engine Cylinders.
The engine may be over-choked. Open choke and throttle. Close crank-
ing motor switch for five or six engine revolutions. Wait 30 seconds and
repeat operation if engine does not fire.
(c) Weak Spark or No Spark Emitted From Spark Plug Wire Con-
nector When Detached From Spark Plug and Held %e Inch From
Engine Block While Engine is Cranked. Close ignition switch. Refer
to paragraph 41, if test is negative.
(d) Satisfactory Ignition and Fuel Systems But Engine Backfires
or Dies. Refer to paragraph 41, and check ignition timing.. If trouble
continues, test mechanical condition of engine (subparagraph c below).
(3) ENGINE IDLES UNEVENLY.
(a) Black Smoke Emitted From Exhaust. Adjust carburetor idle
mixture (par. 76 c (3) ). Replace carburetor (par. 76 d and e) if idle
does not adjust.
(b) Engine Idles Evenly When Choke is Partially Closed or a
Momentary Even Idle is Obtained When Engine is Primed. Adjust
carburetor idle mixture. If mixture does not adjust, check fuel system,
paragraph 42, remedy leaky manifold gaskets, then replace defective
carburetor (par. 76 d and e).
(c) Engine Idles Unevenly When Fuel System is Satisfactory and
No Leaks Are Present in Inlet Manifold. Clean, adjust and replace de-
fective spark plugs.
(d) Engine Idles Unevenly When Fuel and Ignition Systems are
Satisfactory. Test mechanical condition of engine (subpar. c below).
Replace cylinder head gasket if defective.
(4) LACK OF POWER WHEN ENGINE DOES Nor FIRE ON ALL
CYLINDERS. Clean, adjust, and replace defective spark plugs. If trouble
continues, test mechanical condition of engine (subpar. c below).
(5) ENGINE OVERHEATING. Refer to paragraphs 41 through 44,
in the order mentioned, to check the system causing the trouble.
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TROUBLE SHOOTING
(6) ENGINE LACKS POWER WHEN COOLING SYSTEM is SATISFAC-
TORY. Clean air cleaner, then check ignition system (par. 41).
(7) ENGINE LACKS POWER. Test mechanical condition of engine
(subpar. c below).
(8) ABNORMAL NOISE AT IDLE.
(a) Noise Occurs at Half Engine Speed. Adjust tappets (par. 62).
If a broken valve spring or tappet is present, notify higher authority.
(b) Noise Occurs at Maximum Engine Speed. Refer to a higher
authority.
(9) DULL THUD NOISE AT OPEN THROTTLE Low ENGINE SPEED.
Refer to higher authority.
(10) "PlNG." Refer to paragraph 41 and check ignition system.
If engine is overheating, refer to step (5) above. Check mechanical
condition of engine (subpar. c below).
c. Tests to Determine Mechanical Condition of Engine.
(1) COMPRESSION TEST. If possible, make this test with the engine
warm. Remove a spark plug from each of the engine cylinders. Install
a compression gage in No. 1 cylinder. Open the throttle fully, leave
the ignition switch open, and crank the engine. Stop cranking the engine
when the maximum reading is obtained on the gage. This will take 8 or
10 revolutions of the engine crankshaft. Repeat this process on the re-
maining cylinders, recording the compression pressure of each cylinder
on a piece of paper. If the compression pressure of one or more cylin-
ders is less than 95 pounds per square inch when the test has been
conducted near sea level, the cylinder or cylinders registering this low
reading have leaky valves or piston rings. To determine whether the
rings or valves leak, repeat the above test on the cylinders having poor
compression, adding a half teaspoonful of engine oil through the spark
plug hole and onto the valves prior to installing the compression gage.
If a low reading is obtained, the valves leak. If a satisfactory reading
is obtained, the rings leak. If the readings taken vary more than 10
pounds per square inch, an engine overhaul is indicated.
(2) VACUUM TEST. Install vacuum gage connection at the rear
of the intake manifold. Remedy all leaks in line to windshield wiper.
Warm up engine and idle at 500 revolutions per minute. If manifold
connections are tight, carburetor properly adjusted, cylinders all firing
evenly, and ignition timing correct, the vacuum gage reading will be
between 17 and 21 inches at sea level. If the gage reading is less than
15 inches, investigate the exhaust system for a restriction. When using a
vacuum gage to adjust the carburetor idle mixture, the correct idle mix-
ture is indicated when the gage reading is a maximum. Remove vacuum
gage.
(3) ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE.
(a) If the noise occurs with each revolution of the engine crank-
shaft, it is at some point driven by the crankshaft, such as pistons, rings,
pins, connecting rod or main bearings, or some member of the engine
which is driven at crankshaft speed. A loose main bearing knock is
usually a dull thud, more noticeable on a hard pull or quick accelera-
tion. Notify higher authority.
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TM 9-811
39^41
(b) If the noise occurs once with each two revolutions of the engine
crankshaft, the source is at some point driven by the camshaft, such as
valves, tappets, etc. Adjust tappets. If noise continues, notify higher
authority.
40. STARTING SYSTEM.
a. Solenoid Starting Switch Fails to Click When the Series
Parallel Switch is Closed.
(1) Check wiring for loose or corroded connections, and clean and
tighten as required.
(2) Test each cell of the batteries with a hydrometer. If any
cell is less than 1.220 at 80F, replace the defective battery (par. 101).
with a fully charged one and investigate the generating system (par.
45 ) for the cause and remedy of the discharged battery. If the switch
still fails to click when the series parallel switch is closed, proceed as
in the next paragraph.
(3) Using a screwdriver with an insulated handle, short the SW
terminal of the solenoid switch (on top of the starter) against the
frame. If it fails to click, it is defective and should be replaced (par.
98). If the solenoid does click when the SW terminal is shorted, the
switch is all right, and a further check is necessary to locate the trouble.
Run a jumper wire from the SW terminal on the series parallel switch
to the ammeter terminal on the same switch. If the solenoid clicks,
the series parallel switch is defective and should be replaced (par. 99).
If the solenoid fails to click, leave this jumper in place and run another
wire across the terminals of the circuit breaker in the ammeter line.
If the solenoid clicks, the circuit breaker is defective and should be
replaced (par. 102). If the solenoid still fails to click, check the bat-
tery for sulphated terminals and cover with a clean coat of petrolatum
if necessary.
b. Solenoid Starting Switch Clicks When the Series Parallel
Switch is Closed.
(1) Test the solenoid starting switch with a jumper. If the cranking
motor operates, replace the defective solenoid starting switch (par. 98).
If the cranking motor does not operate, proceed with step (2 ) below.
(2) Remedy all poor connections, short and open circuits in the
heavy cable connecting the battery with the cranking motor. Carefully
examine and remedy if necessary the ground cable circuit of the battery.
If the cranking motor does not rotate the engine crankshaft after per-
forming the preceding steps, replace the defective cranking motor (par.
97). Notify a higher authority if the troubles cannot be corrected.
41. IGNITION SYSTEM.
a. Remedy All Poor Connections in Ignition Wiring System.
b. Ammeter Flicks When Engine is Cranked and Ignition
Switch is Closed.
(1) Cease cranking the engine and open the ignition switch.
(2) Remove the distributor cap from the distributor (par. 91). If
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TROUBLE SHOOTING
moisture is present inside the cap, wipe it and the rotor dry. Remove
all moisture from the exterior of the cap, the high-tension wires, spark
plug porcelains and the high-tension terminal of the coil. Install the
distributor cap, close the ignition switch, and check the spark as out-
lined in paragraph 92. If a weak or no spark is obtained, proceed with
step (3) below.
(3) Cease cranking the engine and remove the distributor cap
from the distributor. Remove the high-tension wire from the center
socket of the distributor cap. Rotate the engine crankshaft until the
ignition points are closed. Close the ignition switch. Hold the high-
tension wire connected to the coil so the free end is about %e inch from
the engine cylinder block, and open and close the ignition points with
the fingers. If a good spark is obtained, this spark is lost in the distribu-
tor cap, rotor or high-tension wires. Examine the distributor cap and
rotor for cracks or a carbon path. If a crack or carbon path is found,
replace the defective distributor cap or rotor (par. 91). If the metal
spring of the rotor is broken, or the metal segment is badly burned,
replace the rotor. Examine the insulation of the high-tension wiring.
If the insulation is broken, oil soaked or porous, replace the defective
high-tension ignition wiring. If no spark or a poor spark is obtained,
proceed with step (4) below.
(4) Remove the distributor cap from the distributor. Remove the
high-tension wire from the center socket of the distributor cap. Rotate
the engine crankshaft until the points are open. Close the ignition
switch. Hold the high-tension wire connected to the coil so the free
end is about %8 inch away from the cylinder block. With a screwdriver,
make a good ground connection between the movable contact point
arm and the ground. If a good spark is obtained from the high-tension
wire when the ground connection established by the screwdriver is
broken, replace the defective contact points. If no spark or a poor
spark is obtained, either the condenser or ignition coil, or both are de-
fective. Replace each of these units in turn, and if only one is de-
fective, install the serviceable unit which was removed (par. 91).
(5) Remove the distributor cap and rotor. If the breaker arm is
frozen or the contact points are in poor condition, replace them. Adjust
to correct point gap (par. 91).
c. Ammeter Does Not Flick or Show Discharge When Engine
is Cranked and Ignition Switch is Closed. Use a test lamp to find
the open circuit in the circuit between the battery and the contact
points. First check the ignition switch, and make sure current will
pass through it when the switch is closed. Then check the coils and
make sure the primary circuit through the coil is continuous. If the
circuit through the switch is open when the switch is in the clo'sed posi-
tion, or if the primary circuit of the ignition coil is not continuous, re-
place the defective unit (pars. 90, 91 and 92). If the circuit is satis-
factory to the primary post of the distributor, inspect the grounding
cable between the breaker mounting plate and the distributor housing.
This cable must be in good order, and tightly connected, to provide
a ground for the mounting plate. Assemble and install the distributor
cap. Test the spark as outlined in paragraph 92. If no spark or a poor
spark is obtained, perform all of step b of this paragraph.
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d. Ammeter Does Not Flick and Shows a Steady Discharge
When Engine is Cranked and Ignition Switch is Closed. Cease
cranking the engine, open the ignition switch, and remove the distribu-
tor cap. Perform step b (5) of this paragraph. Disconnect the con-
denser lead from the primary post of the distributor. If, when the
ignition switch is closed, the ammeter shows no discharge, replace the
defective condenser. If the ammeter shows a steady discharge, con-
nect the condenser lead. The trouble has now been traced down to
a short circuit in one or more of three items: the wiring, the ignition
switch, or the primary circuit in the ignition coil. Use a test lamp to
locate the defective unit or units, and correct the short circuit. After
correcting the short circuit, assemble the system, and if a good spark
is not obtained (par. 41 b (3)), observe the ammeter to see whether
its behavior corresponds to step b or c of this paragraph. Perform the
step pertinent to the ammeter's behavior.
e. Satisfactory Spark Delivered to Spark Plug, But Engine
Backfires or Does Not Fire. *
(1) Check the order of the high-tension wires in the distributor
cap, and make sure the firing order of the distributor corresponds to
the firing order of the engine (1-5-3-6-2-4).
(2) Check the ignition timing (par. 90).
(3) Test engine compression (par. 39 c (1)).
f. Engine Idles Unevenly. Remove the spark plugs; clean and
reset the gaps. Replace defective plugs with serviceable ones. Make
certain that the spark plugs used have the correct heat range (par. 92 ).
g. Lack of Power When Engine Fires On All Cylinders.
(1) Check the ignition timing (par. 90 ).
(2 ) As a last resort, replace the distributor, since something might
have happened to the automatic spark advance to prevent this device
from functioning in its intended manner (par. 91).
42. FUEL SYSTEM.
a. Remove, Disassemble, Clean, and Install Fuel Filter (par.
77).
b. No Fuel Reaching Carburetor, as Evidenced by Disconnect-
ing Fuel Line From Carburetor and Cranking Engine With Igni-
tion Switch Off.
(1) Perform step a of this paragraph.
(2 ) .Inspect the fuel pump for fuel leakage through a drain hole in
the lower housing. If fuel has been leaking from this hole, the pump
has a ruptured diaphragm. Replace the defective pump (par. 77).
(3) Disconnect both fuel lines from the fuel pump. With the
ignition switch open, crank the engine. While the engine is being
cranked, close the fitting on the suction line with a finger. If the pump
is operating properly, the suction exerted by the pump can be felt by the
finger. If the pump does not pass this test, replace it (par. 77).
(4) The cause of lack of fuel to the carburetor has now been
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TROUBLE SHOOTING
traced to either a plugged fuel line between the fuel tank and the
carburetor or vapor lock. The general procedure for removing an
obstruction in a fuel line is to disconnect the line at each end, and
blow it out with compressed air. In the case of vapor lock, the vehicle
gradually loses power until the carburetor runs out of fuel. When,
this happens, if water is available, pour it over the fuel pump and
the fuel lines subject to engine heat to lower the vapor pressure of
the fuel. If no method of cooling these units is available, wait until
they cool off.
c. Lack of Power.
(1) INSUFFICIENT PRESSURE IN FUEL LINE TO CARBURETOR.
(a) Clean fuel filter (par. 77).
(b) Connect a liquid pressure gage in the fuel line at the carbu-
retor. Operate the vehicle near its rated engine speed, and with an
open throttle, and observe the fuel pressure registered by the gage.
If the fuel pressure is less than 21/2 pounds per square inch, the fuel
pump is defective, or the fuel line between the tank and carburetor
has an obstruction in it. Test the fuel pump as outlined in step b (3)
of this paragraph. If the pump passes this check, disconnect the fuel
lines and blow them out with compressed air. If both these operations
fail to attain the required fuel pressure at the carburetor, replace the
fuel pump (par. 77).
(2) REQUIRED PRESSURE IN FUEL LINE TO CARBURETOR. Operate
the vehicle near its rated speed, and with an open throttle. If partially
closing the choke produces more power, replace the defective carbu-
retor (par. 76).
43. COOLING SYSTEM.
a. In the following discussion, it is assumed the operator has not
driven the vehicle far enough after the engine temperature gage has
reached the danger zone to boil away a sufficient quantity of coolant
to interfere with the circulation system.
b. Overheating Not Due to Loss of Coolant.
. (1) Remove any foreign obstruction which would tend to retard
the passage of air through the core of the radiator. If insects or dirt
have plugged a large number of the air passages through the core, re-
move these obstructions with compressed air or with a stream of water,
working from the far side of the radiator core.
(2 ) Check the condition and adjustment of the fan belt. If neces-
sary, adjust or replace it (par. 86).
(3) Check the ignition timing. If necessary, adjust (par. 90).
(4) Continuous operation at open throttle and low engine speed
tends to overheat the engine, particularly on a hot day. Keep the
engine near its rated speed in order to take full advantage of the in-
creased flow of air through the radiator core caused by the fan speed.
(5 ) Check the carburetor for rated fuel delivery at open throttle as
outlined in paragraph 68 c.
(6) Replace the engine thermostat (par. 88).
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TM 9-811
43-44
(7) In rare cases, the water pump impeller may have become
separated from the water pump shaft. Replace pump (par. 87).
(8) If the above steps have not corrected the overheating trouble,
the liquid passages in the radiator are probably restricted or plugged.
Replace the radiator (par. 85).
c. Overheating Due to Loss of Coolant When Radiator Was
Filled Before Starting.
(1) After the engine returns to its normal operating temperature,
fill the radiator.
(2) Inspect and remedy all external leaks of the cooling system,
such as hose, gaskets, etc. (par. 84). If the radiator leaks, replace it
with a serviceable unit (par. 85).
(3) If no external leaks are present, remove the cylinder head
(par. 59). A defective cylinder head gasket is probably the cause of a
leak between a cylinder combustion chamber and the coolant passage
in the head or block of the engine. Install a new gasket and the cylinder
head (par. 61).
d. Loss of Coolant When Vehicle Stands. If the cooling system
loses coolant when the vehicle is idle, and no external leaks are present,
the cylinder head gasket is probably leaking (pars. 59 and 87).
44. LUBRICATING SYSTEM.
a. Detection of Oil Leaks.
(1) REAR MAIN BEARING. Spread a large sheet of clean paper
directly beneath the oil drain hole in the clutch housing after stopping
the vehicle. A few drops of oil appearing upon the paper is a per-
missible quantity, but two or three teaspoonfuls of engine oil is not.
Notify a higher authority if the leak is excessive.
(2) EXTERNAL LINES AND GASKETS. Thoroughly clean the line
connections and surfaces around the gaskets, and oil drain plugs. After
operation of the vehicle, inspect these cleaned areas. Remedy de-
fective connections by installing serviceable ones. Replace defective
gaskets, tighten loose oil drain plugs.
b. Excessive Oil Consumption.
(1) Check for oil leaks.
(2) Make sure the oil being used corresponds to the recommenda-
tion in the Lubrication Guide (par. 26).
c. Sudden Loss of Oil Pressure.
(1) LACK OF OIL. Stop engine immediately and check engine oil
level. If the oil level is less than one-third full, fill to full mark and
start engine. If oil pressure does not register within 30 seconds after
starting, stop engine.
(2) SUFFICIENT OIL. If the oil level is up to the half full mark or
better, notify a higher authority.
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TROUBLE SHOOTING
45. GENERATING SYSTEM.
a. General. When checking the condition of the generating cir-
cuit, first depress the starter button for five to ten seconds with the
ignition off to run down the batteries enough to show a charging rate
on the ammeters. The engine should then be started and the throttle
button pulled out far enough to permit the engine to idle at 1000
revolutions per minute.
b. Ammeter Fails to Register Charge but Front Battery Am-
meter Registers Charge. Replace defective ammeter as flow of cur-
rent through front battery ammeter indicates that the generating cir-
cuit is complete.
c. Ammeter and Front Battery Ammeter Both Fail to Regis-
ter Charge.
(1) Turn on the vehicle lights. If the ammeters do not show dis-
charge, they are defective and should be replaced (par. 192). If the
ammeters show discharge, or no improvement is noted after replacing
them, proceed as in steps (2) and (3).
(2) Check all wiring for loose or corroded connections, and clean
and tighten as required.
,(3) Run a jumper wire from the armature terminal on the gen-
erator to the armature terminal on the regulator. If the ammeters
register the flow of current, the armature lead from the generator to
the regulator should be repaired or replaced. If the ammeters still
show no deflection, proceed as in step (4).
(4) Run a jumper wire between the armature terminal and the
battery terminal on the voltage regulator. If the ammeters show de-
flection, the voltage regulator is defective and should be replaced (par.
95). If the ammeters still fail to show deflection, proceed as in the
next step.
(5) Run a jumper wire between the battery terminal on the
regulator and the battery terminal on the dash filterette. If the am-
meters show deflection, the wire between the regulator and the filter-
ette should be replaced or repaired. If the ammeters still fail to show
deflection, proceed as in the next step.
(6) Short out the dash filterette with the jumper wire connected
across the "B" terminal on the engine side of the dash, and the "B"
terminal on the cab side of the dash. If the ammeters register de-
flection, the filterette is defective and should be replaced. If the am-
meters still fail to -register deflection, proceed as in the next step.
(7) Run a jumper wire between the "B" terminal on the filter-
ette and the ammeter. If the ammeters show deflection, the wire be-
tween the filterette and the ammeter should be repaired or replaced.
If the ammeters still fail to show deflection, proceed as in the next step.
(8) Run a juniper wire between the ammeter and the "A" minus
terminal on the series parallel switch. If the ammeters show deflection,
the wire between the series parallel switch and the ammeter should be
replaced or repaired. If the ammeters still fail to show deflection,
proceed as in the next step.
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TM 9-811
45
(9) Run a jumper wire between the "A" minus terminal on the
series parallel switch and the "A" minus terminal on the rear battery.
If the ammeters show deflection, the battery cable between the "A"
minus terminal on the series parallel switch and the "A" minus termi-
nal on the rear battery should be replaced. If the ammeters fail to
register, proceed as in next step.
(10) Disconnect the voltage regulator field wire and ground it.
Then disconnect the regulator armature wire and brush it over a good
ground. CAUTION: Do not hold this wire in contact with ground or
it will burn out the generator armature. If no spark is obtained, the
generator is defective and should be replaced (par. 94). If a good
spark is obtained, it is an indication that the generator is functioning
properly, and the regulator armature and field connections should be
replaced before continuing with the next step (11).
(11) Disconnect the regulator battery wire and hold it close to the
regulator battery terminal. If a good spark is obtained, the regulator
is functioning properly. If no spark is obtained, the regulator is de-
fective and should be replaced (par. 95).
(12) If after making these tests the ammeter registers charge, but
the front battery ammeter fails to register, proceed as in paragraph
45 d. If the trouble cannot be located, refer to a higher authority.
d. Ammeter Registers Charge but Front Battery Ammeter
Does Not Register Charge.
(1) Repeat items (1) and (2), as outlined in paragraph 45 c.
(2) Run a jumper wire between the "A" minus terminal and the
"B" minus terminal on the series parallel switch. If the front battery
ammeter shows deflection, the series parallel switch is defective and
should be replaced (par. 99). If the front battery ammeter fails to
show deflection, proceed as in step (3) (a) (b) (c) following.
(3) Run a jumper wire between the "B" minus terminal on the
series parallel switch and the "B" minus terminal on the solenoid
switch. If the front battery ammeter shows deflection, there is an open
circuit in the wire between the series parallel switch and the solenoid
switch. To determine which parts are defective in this circuit proceed
as follows:
(a) Run a jumper wire between the "B" minus terminal on the
series parallel switch and the circuit breaker in the line. If the ammeter
shows deflection, the wire between the series parallel switch and the
circuit breaker should be replaced.
(b) Run a jumper wire across the terminals of the circuit breaker.
If the ammeter shows deflection the circuit breaker should be re-
placed (par. 102).
(c) Run a jumper wire between the circuit breaker and the "B"
minus terminal of the solenoid switch. If the ammeter shows deflec-
tion the wire between the circuit breaker and the solenoid switch
should be repaired or replaced.
(4) Run a jumper wire from the battery cable connection on the
solenoid switch to the "B" minus terminal of the front battery. If the
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TROUBLE SHOOTING
ammeter shows deflection, the battery cable should be replaced. If the
ammeter still fails to show deflection, proceed as in steps (5) and
(6) following:
(5) Run a jumper wire from the "B" plus terminal of the front
battery to the "B" plus terminal of the series parallel switch. If the
ammeter shows deflection, the battery cable should be replaced. If
the ammeter fails to show deflection, proceed as follows:
(6) Run a jumper wire between the "B" plus terminal and the
front battery ammeter terminal on the series parallel switch. If the
ammeter shows deflection, the series parallel switch is defective and
should be replaced (par. 99). If the ammeter fails to show deflection,
proceed as in step ( 7 ) (a) (b) (c) and (d) following.
(7) Run a jumper wire from the front battery ammeter terminal
on the series parallel switch to the front battery ammeter. If the am-
meter shows deflection, there is an open circuit in the wiring between
the series parallel switch and the front battery ammeter. To deter-
mine which part of the circuit is defective, proceed as follows:
(a) Run a jumper wire between the front battery ammeter termi-
nal on the series parallel switch and the circuit breaker in the line. If
the ammeter shows deflection, the wire between the circuit breaker
and the series parallel switch should be replaced.
(b) Run a jumper wire across the terminals of the circuit breaker.
If the ammeter shows deflection, the circuit breaker is defective and
should be replaced (par. 102).
(c) Run a jumper wire between the circuit breaker and the junc-
tion block on the cowl. If the ammeter shows deflection, the wire be-
tween the circuit breaker and the junction block is defective, and should
be replaced or repaired.
(d) Run a jumper wire between the junction block and the am-
meter. If the ammeter shows deflection, the wire between the junction
block and the ammeter is defective, and should be replaced or repaired.
(8) Run a jumper wire between the front battery ammeter and
the ground. If the ammeter shows deflection the ground wire is de-
fective, and should be replaced or repaired.
"" (9) If the front battery ammeter still fails to show deflection, re-
fer to a higher authority.
46. CLUTCH.
a. General. Most clutch troubles will be noticed when the clutch
is engaged and the vehicle is started. The driver should note carefully
the symptoms of the trouble to facilitate the determination of the
cause.
(1) Slipping will be evidenced by the rapid building up of engine
speed with little effect on vehicle speed, immediately after the clutch
is engaged and the throttle depressed. To remedy slipping, adjust
clutch (par. 72). If this fails, replace driven plate. If clutch still slips,
notify higher authority.
(2) Grabbing is indicated when the clutch goes into sudden en-
734619 O - 47 - 9 1 29
TM 9-811
46-50
gagementjerking the vehicle, even though the pedal is released
gradually. To remedy a grabby clutch, first make sure the engine
mounting bolts are tight. Then, if trouble persists, replace the driven
plate. If clutch still grabs, notify higher authority.
(3) A chattering clutch will be noticed by the noise and jerky
motion imparted to the vehicle as the clutch disk grabs intermittently
during pedal release. To remedy a chattering clutch, replace the clutch
driven plate. If this fails, notify higher authority.
(4) Dragging will be evidenced by difficulty in shifting gears
quietly with the clutch pedal pushed to the toeboard. To remedy a
dragging clutch, adjust clutch. If this fails replace driven plate. If
clutch still drags, notify higher authority.
(5) Noise in the clutch will be evident during engagement or after
engagement is complete and the vehicle is in motion. Either a defec-
tive pilot or release bearing may cause noise. Replace these bearings
if defective. If noise continues, notify higher authority.
47. TRANSMISSION.
a. General. Transmission troubles may be discovered before
operation, while shifting gears and during operation. The symptoms of
the usual transmission troubles follow.
(1) Lubricant leaks may be discovered before operation by ex-
amining the ground underneath the vehicle for signs of excessive oil loss.
(2) Difficulty in shifting is evidenced by a clashing noise while
changing gears.
(3) Slipping out of gear will be noticed after the vehicle is in mo-
tion while accelerating or while on a hard pull.
(4) Noise in the transmission will become evident when the ve-
hicle is in motion. Transmission noises are deceptive and may actually
originate in other parts of the vehicle. Before any mechanical work is
attempted it is suggested that a thorough check be made, giving par-
ticular attention to the propeller shafts. If noise persists, after a thor-
ough tightening of loose nuts in propeller shafts, notify higher authority.
48. TRANSFER CASE.
a. Transfer case troubles are very similar to transmission troubles
and are evidenced in the same manner. Refer to paragraph 47.
49. PROPELLER SHAFTS.
a. General. Propeller shaft noises and vibration generally seem
to come from the transmission. These symptoms are generally the first
indication of improper conditions in the propeller shaft assemblies. If
proper lubrication fails to remedy trouble, replace defective assemblies.
50. AXLES.
a. General. The symptoms of axle troubles will be noticed be-
fore operation while starting and stopping and during operation. The
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TROUBLE SHOOTING
condition of operation of the vehicle (starting, driving, coasting, pull-
ing, etc.) should be noted as the symptom is observed to aid in the
diagnosis of the cause.
(1) Lubricant leaks may be discovered before operation by an
examination of the ground under the vehicle. Clean the axle breathers
and replace all defective gaskets, seals and retainers.
(2) A clicking noise with jerky operation may be noticed when
starting or stopping. Tighten axle shaft flange nuts. If trouble persists,
notify higher authority.
(3) Humming noises may be noticed while driving at a steady
speed, while coasting to a stop or while pulling, as in acceleration or
under load. Adjust, or if necessary, replace defective wheel bearings.
Notify higher authority if trouble persists.
51. BRAKES.
a. General. Brake troubles will be noticed while the vehicle is
in motion, during brake application and during brake release. Troubles
may be caused by mechanical difficulties as well as by deficiencies in
the air equipment.
b. Brakes Drag. Adjust brakes and wheel bearings. If air brake
valve leaks, replace it. If trouble persists, remove wheels and brake
drum, and replace brake shoe retracting spring if defective.
c* Truck Pulls to One Side When Brakes are Applied. Tighten
loose spring clips and inflate tires to correct pressure. Adjust brake
shoes (par. 124). If symptom persists, replace defective brake shoes.
d. Brakes Lack Power to Stop Vehicle. Make sure air brake
system is operating properly (section XXIX) and the slack adjusters
are in proper adjustment. If the air brake system is functioning prop-
erly, replace all defective brake drums and shoes.
e. Brakes Take Hold Slowly. This symptom indicates trouble
in the air brake system. Remedy restrictions in lines and clean if neces-
sary. Adjust slack adjusters. Make sure brake valve and brake chamber
are operating properly. Replace defective assemblies.
f. Brakes Release Slowly. Lubricate brake camshaft to prevent
binding. Adjust slack adjuster, remedy restrictions in lines and clean
lines if necessary. Make sure the brake valve lever returns to full re-
lease position when pedal is released. Adjust pedal clearance if neces-
sary. If brake valve is defective, replace.
g. Air Pressure Builds Up Slowly. This symptom indicates
trouble in the air brake system. Remedy all leaks in lines, connections,
and the principal assemblies. Clean the air .compressor air cleaner and
discharge line. Adjust air compressor drive belt if necessary. Replace
air compressor if defective.
h. Quick Loss of Reservoir Pressure When Engine is Stopped.
Remedy all leaks in air brake system. Make sure drain cocks, valves,
connections and lines do not leak.
131'
TM 9-811
52-54
52. STEERING.
a. General. Steering troubles are noticed with the vehicle in oper-
ation or while turning. The more common steering troubles are de-
scribed as follows:
(1) Wheel tramp or shimmy will be noticed with the vehicle in
operation at driving speeds. A high-speed wheel tramp which increases
in intensity with vehicle speed is most generally caused by faulty wheel
balance. A low speed shimmy is usually caused by deficiencies in those
items which affect wheel alinement. To remedy either of these symp-
toms, first inflate tires to correct pressure. Then check and adjust
toe-in if necessary. Make sure U-bolts attaching axle to frame are
tight. If excessive looseness is evident between the spring shackle pins
and rubber bushings, replace worn parts (par. 141). If excessive play
is evident in tie rod bushings, install new parts. If the front axle hous-
ing assembly is bent, or if symptoms are still present, notify higher
authority.
(2) Hard steering or binding in the steering mechanism will be
noticed while turning. To remedy this symptom, lubricate all parts of
the steering mechanism, make sure the toe-in is correctly adjusted, and
that the U-bolts clamping the axle to the springs are tight. If the symp-
tom persists, notify higher authority. .
(3) Wandering is the tendency of the vehicle to steer off at angles
to the course. It will be noticed at any speed and especially in a high
wind or on a highly crowned road. To remedy this symptom, make
sure no excessive play exists in the tie rod or drag link connections.
If trouble continues notify higher authority.
(4) Road shock transmitted through the steering linkage will
be noticed at any speed, and especially while driving over bumpy roads
or rough terrain.
53. WINCH.
a. General. Winch troubles will be evidenced before operation,
while pulling or when holding the load in neutral. The more common
troubles are listed in the following paragraph.
b. Winch Does Not Operate or Suddenly Fails to Operate. In-
stall a new shear pin (par. 163).
c. Winch Does Not Hold When Power is Released. Adjust worn
brake. If trouble persists, notify higher authority.
d. Insufficient Drag on Drum When Clutch is Disengaged. Ad-
just drag brake.
54. WRECKER EQUIPMENT.
a. General. Troubles with the wrecker equipment are for the most
part readily apparent and may be corrected by replacement of defec-
tive parts or tightening loose parts. Trouble is usually accompanied by
noise from the defective part or assembly. Keep this equipment prop-
erly lubricated.
132
TM 9-811
55-56
TROUBLE SHOOTING
55. Am COMPRESSOR UNIT.
a. Tank Pressure Fails to Build Up with Engine Operating
Satisfactorily. Adjust belt tension, remedy all leaks, and clean intake
filter of air compressor. If this fails to correct trouble, notify higher
authority.
b. Noisy Compressor. Lubricate compressor and tighten loose
parts. If noise persists, notify higher authority.
c. Engine Hard to Crank. Open unloader valve until engine
reaches rated speed. Use correct grade of lubricant in engine.
d. Moisture in Air. Drain air reservoir at prescribed intervals.
e. Engine Does Not Start. Fill fuel tank. Make sure gasoline
reaches carburetor by disconnecting fuel line at carburetor. Clean and
reconnect fuel line. Remove all moisture from spark plugs and wiring.
Replace defective spark plugs and/or wiring. If trouble persists, notify
higher authority.
. Engine Misses. Tighten electrical connections and replace de-
fective spark plug wires or spark plugs.
g. Engine Overheats. Lubricate engine.
56. DUMP PUMP AND HOIST.
a. General. At regular intervals, inspect and tighten, if necessary,
all hoist mounting bolts and cap screws, drive shaft companion flange
bolts and packing gland nuts. Keep the hoist cylinder filled to the
proper level with the correct grade of oil. Lubricate all lubrication
fittings, at various points of the power hoist assembly, and drive shaft
assembly. Pivot points not equipped with lubrication fittings should
be given frequent applications of engine oil.
b. Noisy Pump. Fill hoist cylinder with lubricant to correct level.
Do not operate the power take-off after hoist has reached the extreme
position or exceed an engine speed of 1000 revolutions per minute dur-
ing the hoisting operation.
c. Power Hoist Fails to Lift. Fill hoist cylinder with lubricant
to correct level. If trouble continues, notify higher authority.
d. Pump Body Settles. Notify higher authority.
133
TM 9-811
57
Section XIV
ENGINE MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT IN VEHICLE
Paragraph
Description and tabulated data 57
Tune-up 58
Cylinder head and gasket removal 59
Cleaning carbon 60
Cylinder head and gasket installation 61
Valve tappet adjustment. 62
Intake and exhaust manifolds and gaskets replacement...... 63
Cam and idler shaft end play adjustment . 64
Oil pan 65
Oil niters 66
Crankcase breather 67
Viscometer 68
57. DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA.
a. Description. The engine is a six-cylinder gasoline engine of
L-head design. The cylinder block and crankcase are cast in one piece,
with the water jackets sloping inward toward the top and outward
toward the bottom. The accessory drive for the water pump and dis-
tributor is located on the left side of the engine, and is supported in a
removable sleeve casting. The generator is driven by the timing gears
through a pilot hole on the right side of the engine. The fuel pump
is mounted on the left side of the engine, and is driven by a pin working
in the engine block between the pump arm and the camshaft eccentric.
A flyball governor is piloted in the gear cover, and is driven by a gear
bolted on the end of the generator drive gear.
b. Tabulated Data.
Model Hercules RXC
Brake horsepower 131.5
Number cylinders 6
Bore 4s/s in.
Stroke 5l/4 in.
Piston displacement 529 cu in.
Compression ratio 5.41 to 1
Governed speed 2300 rpm
Maximum torque at 1000 rpm 396
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4
Crankcase capacity 16 qt
Torque wrench pull on cylinder head bolts 52 Vi ft-lb.
Tappet clearance:
Intake valves 0.006in.
Exhaust valves :.O.OlOin.
134
TM 9-811
58
58. TUNE-UP.
a. General. The engine tune-up procedure is for the purpose of
putting the engine and its accessories in condition to give the best per-
formance possible without any major repairs or adjustments. The opera-
tions should be performed in the order indicated. See paragraphs 39
through 45 for methods of locating troubles in the engine or accessories.
b. Tune-Up Procedure.
(1) CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER. Clean the carburetor air cleaner
(par. 84).
(2) ENGINE BREATHER. Clean the engine breather (par. 67).
(3) FUEL LINES. Check the fuel lines for leakage. Examine the
connections to see that they are tight and free from cracks at the ends.
See that there are no kinks or sharp bends. Examine the flexible line
between the carburetor and the fuel filter to see that the rubber is in
good condition and that it is not kinked or collapsed.
(4) FUEL PUMP. Remove the fuel pump bowl and clean the
screen. Pour off any foreign material which has accumulated in the
bowl (par. 77).
(5) FUEL FILTER. Remove the drain plug in the filter bowl and
drain off any foreign matter which may have accumulated. If dirt or
gum is readily discernible in the drainage, remove the bowl and clean
the element (par. 77).
(6) CARBURETOR. Remove the inlet plug from the carburetor bowl
and clean the screen. Adjust carburetor idling speed (par. 76).
(7) BATTERIES. Check the batteries for condition of the electro-
lyte. If the batteries are discharged they should be replaced or re-
charged (par. 101).
(8) BATTERY AND IGNITION CABLES. Check the battery and igni-
tion cables to see that connections are clean and tight. Wires on which
the insulation has been burned or chafed must be replaced or repaired.
If battery terminals are corroded they should be cleaned and coated
with petrolatum or chassis grease.
(9) SPARK PLUGS. Remove spark plugs and examine for burned
electrodes or cracked insulators. Replace defective plugs or reset the
gaps to 0.027 inch if they are in satisfactory condition (par. 92).
(10) DISTRIBUTOR. Remove the distributor cap and clean and in-
spect for cracks or badly burned contacts. Remove the rotor and clean
and examine for cracks or broken spring clip. Inspect, clean and adjust
distributor points. Inspect condenser and tighten connections (par. 91).
(11) COIL. Clean and inspect coil for tight mounting and good
connections. Check coil for good spark (par. 92).
(12) IGNITION TIMING. Check ignition timing (par. 90).
(13) VALVE CLEARANCE. Remove valve covers and check and
adjust valve clearance (par. 62).
(14) CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS. Tighten cylinder head bolts with
a torque wrench to 52l/2 foot-pounds (par. 61).
(15) OIL FILTERS. Drain and clean elements. Replace if necessary
(par. 69).
(16) VACUUM TEST. Perform vacuum test (par. 39 c).
135
TM 9-811
59
59. CYLINDER HEAD AND GASKET REMOVAL.
a. Drain Cooling System. Open the drain cock on the radiator
bottom tank outlet fitting and the drain cock on the left side of the
cylinder block. If an antifreeze solution is used, arrange to catch it
in clean containers so that it may be used again.
b. Remove Water Outlet Manifokl. Remove the cap screws,
plain washers and lock washers holding the engine water outlet fitting
to the thermostat housing. Push the water outlet fitting away from the
thermostat housing and remove the gasket. Then remove the cap
Figure 46Removing Water Outlet Manifold
screws and lock washers attaching the water outlet manifold to the
cylinder heads, and remove the water outlet manifold and gaskets
(fig. 46).
c. Disconnect Heat Indicator. Disconnect the heat indicator
from the left side of the rear cylinder head by threading out the hex-
agonal adapter and pulling out the bulb.
d. Remove Spark Plugs. Disconnect spark plug wires and re-
move the spark plugs and spark plug gaskets using the spark plug
wrench.
136
TM 9-811
59-61
e. Disconnect Air Cleaner Tube at Carburetor. Back off the
clamp screw in the clamp at the bottom of the air cleaner tube elbow
and lift the tube clear of the neck of the carburetor.
f. Remove Cylinder Head Cap Screws. As the cap screws are
removed from the heads, the various parts which are fastened to the
heads under the cylinder head cap screws may be removed. These
parts are the air cleaner and bracket assembly, the ignition coil, the
hand throttle cable clip, the ignition cable tube, the plate bond and
two toothed lock washers between the heads and the cylinder head
to cowl bond strap and toothed lock washers.
g. Remove cylinder heads and gaskets.
60. CLEANING CARBON.
a. Cleaning Carbon from Cylinder Heads. Place the cylinder
heads upside-down on a bench and scrape off the carbon deposits in the
combustion space and along the gasket fringe. The carbon may be
removed with a hand scraper tool or with a wire brush driven by an
electric drill. When the heads are badly carboned the spark plugs will
always be in need of attention, and these should be cleaned and the
points reset before assembly (par. 92).
b. Cleaning Carbon from Engine Block. Using a hand scraper
or wire brush, clean carbon from the cylinder block deck, valve heads
and piston heads. The engine may be turned over with a hand crank
or with the cranking motor to raise the pistons for cleaning. Stuff
clean rags into those cylinder barrels with the pistons down so as to
avoid getting carbon particles into them which may become trapped
around the edges of the pistons and act as an abrasive after the engine
is again in service. Blow carbon particles from deck of engine before
removing rags and turning over engine to get at the next pair of pistons.
Clean out the cap screw holes in the deck.
61. CYLINDER HEAD AND GASKET INSTALLATION.
a. General. When replacing the cylinder heads, care should be
exercised to avoid injury to the cylinder head gaskets. It is recom-
mended that pilot studs be used as outlined in this procedure. Use new
cylinder head gaskets.
b. Install Pilot Studs in Cylinder Deck. Procure three studs 4
or 5 inches long with a V2-13 (std.) thread on one of the ends. Screw
these into the cylinder head cap screw holes at the two front corners
of the deck, and into one of the holes at the rear of the front cylinder
head deck. v
c. Install Front Cylinder Head and Gasket. Install the front
cylinder head gasket over the pilot studs (fig. 47). Lift the front cylin-
der head and install it over the pilot studs. Drop the cylinder head
cap screws into the cap screw holes in the head, and start the threads
by screwing in with the fingers. Remove the three pilot studs. CAU-
TION: // pilot studs are not available, great care must be exercised
in this installation.
137
TM 9-811
61
d. Install Rear Cylinder Head and Gasket. Install the pilot studs
in the rear cylinder head deck, and repeat the procedure outlined in
step c.
e. Install Accessories Under Cap Screw Heads. The parts which
are attached to the engine under the cylinder head cap screws must be
installed before the screws are tightened down. These parts are the air
cleaner and bracket assembly, the ignition coil, the hand throttle cable
clip, the ignition cable tube, the plate bond and two toothed lock
Figure 47Installing Cylinder Head Gasket
washers between the heads and the cylinder head to cowl bond strap
and toothed lock washer.
f. Tighten Cylinder Head Cap Screws. Use a speed wrench to
run the cap screws down until they start to tighten. Then use a torque
wrench to tighten the cap screws uniformly. When the cap screws and
cap screw holes are clean, the torque wrench reading should be 60 foot-
pounds when copper asbestos gaskets are used, 75 foot-pounds when
steel asbestos gaskets are used. Start in the middle and work around
each head (fig. 48 ) drawing the cap screws up gradually until on the last
time around the torque wrench reading is 52 l/z foot-pounds.
138
TM 9-811
61-62
g. Connect Air Cleaner Tube. Install the air cleaner elbow over
the neck of the carburetor and tighten the clamp screw to hold it secure-
ly in position.
h. Install Spark Plugs. Be sure the spark plugs are cleaned and
the points set. Install the spark plugs with a gasket under each plug,
and tighten with the spark plug wrench. Do not tighten plugs so tightly
as to crack the porcelain, but they must be pulled down sufficiently
to prevent leakage and assure good heat transfer.
i. Install Spark Plug Wires. Install the spark plug wires with
suppressors over the ends of the plugs from which they were removed.
j. Connect Heat Indicator. Insert the bulb into the opening in
the rear cylinder head and thread the hexagonal adapter into place
and tighten it securely.
RA PD 304936
Figure 48Order of Tightening Cylinder Head Cap Screws
k. Install the Water Outlet Manifold. Install new gaskets over
the water manifold openings in the cylinder heads and install the mani-
fold with cap screws and lock washers. Using a new gasket install the
thermostat housing on the engine water outlet manifold with cap
screws and lock washers.
1. Fill Cooling System. Remove the radiator cap and add water
until it comes up level with the filler spout. Then start the engine and
add water as required.
62. VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT.
a. Remove Right Fender Shield. Remove the screws, cap screws,
lock washers, cut washers and the radio suppression toothed lock
139
TM 9-811
62
washer holding the fender shield in place. Disconnect the bond strap
under the rear cap screw. Then work it up and out of the engine com-
partment. It will be necessary to bend the shield slightly to do this.
b. Remove' Crankcase Metering Valve. Disconnect the metering
valve line from the rear valve cover (fig. 49) and then unscrew the
valve from the intake manifold.
c. Remove the Valve Covers. Take out the cap screws and lead
washers holding the valve covers in place, and remove the covers and
gaskets.
Figure 49Disconnecting Metering Valve Line
d. Adjust Tappets. Start the engine and let it run at idling speed
until it is thoroughly warmed up. Using three wrenches, hold the tap-
pet adjusting screw and loosen the lock nuts on one of the tappets.
Hold a feeler gage of the proper thickness between the top of the ad-
justing nut and the valve stem, and turn the adjusting nut until the
proper clearance is obtained. Then hold the adjustment and tighten
the lock nuts securely. Check adjustment after tightening lock nut.
Repeat this operation for all the tappets. Exhaust valves should have
0.010-inch clearance, and intake valves should have 0.006-inch clear-
ance (fig. 50). When all tappets are adjusted, shut off the engine.
140
62
141
.010
.006
INTAKE
TM 9-811
EXHAUST
RA PD 313766
Figure SOValve Tappet Clearance
TM 9-811
62-63
e. Install the Valve Covers. Using new gaskets, install the valve
covers with the cap screws and lead washers.
f. Install the Crankcase Metering Valve. Screw metering valve
into intake manifold until it is tight and then connect the metering
valve line to rear valve cover.
g. Install Right Fender Shield. Slip right fender shield into
place, straighten it up, and attach it with screws, cap screws, lock
washers and cut washers. Replace the toothed lock washer between the
shield and frame rail, and connect the bond strap between the cowl
and rear cap screw.
63. INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND GASKETS
REPLACEMENT.
a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT THE EXHAUST TUBE FROM THE EXHAUST MANI-
FOLD. Remove the three cap screws, plain washers and special hex nuts
holding the exhaust flanges together.
(2) PULL EXHAUST LINE BACK FOR CLEARANCE. Remove the cap
screws, nuts and lock washers holding the tail pipe bracket to the
frame. Remove the front muffler support U-bolt, lock washers and
nuts. Pull the exhaust line assembly back until the exhaust tube clears
the exhaust manifold.
(3) DISCONNECT AIR CLEANER TUBE FROM CARBURETOR. Loosen
the clamp screw at the lower end of the air cleaner tube elbow. Lift
the tube assembly clear of the carburetor neck and swing clear.
(4) REMOVE CARBURETOR. Lift the carburetor shield from the
studs. Remove carburetor attaching studs.
(5) REMOVE MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY. Remove the nuts and spacers
from the manifold attaching studs. Pull the assembly away from the
engine block until the studs are cleared and lift it out of the engine
compartment. Remove gaskets. NOTE: Do not disassemble manifolds
as they must be reassembled on a surface plate. Examine manifolds for
signs of warping or cracking and replace the assembly if necessary.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY. Install new manifold gaskets
over the manifold attaching studs. Lift the manifold assembly into
position and install it on the studs. Place the spacers over the studs
and thread on the nuts. Tighten the nuts gradually to avoid straining
the castings.
(2) Install carburetor attaching studs.
(3) INSTALL CARBURETOR. Install the carburetor shield over the
carburetor attaching Studs and replace the carburetor (par. 76).
NOTE: Be sure to use a slotted gasket between the carburetor and
the governor valve box.
(4) CONNECT AIR CLEANER TUBE TO CARBURETOR. Install the
air cleaner tube elbow over the carburetor neck and tighten the clamp.
142
TM 9-811
63-65
(5) CONNECT EXHAUST TUBE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD. Push ex-
haust pipe assembly forward until exhaust tube engages exhaust mani-
fold flange. Adjust exhaust tube flange against manifold flange and
install three cap screws, washers and special hex nuts. Do not tighten
nuts.
(6) ATTACH EXHAUST PIPE MOUNTINGS. Lift the assembly into
position and fasten tail pipe bracket to frame with cap screws, lock
washers and nuts. Install front muffler U-bolt, nuts and lock washers.
(7) TIGHTEN MANIFOLD FLANGE NUTS. Tighten manifold flange
nuts gradually, working around the joint.
64. CAM AND IDLER SHAFT END PLAY ADJUSTMENT.
a. Description. The end play in the cam and idler shafts is con-
trolled by plugs in the gear cover. These plugs have fiber tips which
contact the ends of the shafts, controlling their end play. These plugs
wear out in normal service and must be adjusted at least every 6000
miles (par. 37 a (5)). In the event that end play (as indicated by an
engine knock at idling speeds) should develop, more frequent adjust-
ment will be necessary.
b. Adjustment (fig. 51). To make the adjustment, loosen the
lock nut "B" and then tighten the adjusting plug "A" with a light pressure
to force the shaft back to the limit of its end float. Then back off the
adjusting plug Va turn and hold it with a wrench while tightening the
lock nut. This adjustment must be made at the end of the cam shaft
and at the end of the idler shaft.
65. OIL PAN.
a. Oil Strainer.
(1) GENERAL. The oil pan is equipped with a combination strainer
and water trap assembly which is attached to the lowest part of the oil
pan. The oil strainer is designed with a sump projecting below the
bottom of the oil pan trap, and holds any water or heavy abrasive
material which may become mixed with the oil. It has a mesh screen
which projects around the oil pump to strain sludge or carbon particles
from the oil.
(2) REMOVAL. Drain the oil from the engine crankcase. The oil
strainer assembly may then be removed from the oil pan by taking
out the cap screws and lock washers which hold it in place. Then re-
move the oil strainer assembly and gasket (fig. 52).
(3) CLEANING. Immerse the oil strainer assembly in a suitable
solvent, and wash off all the sludge and dirty oil. Be sure to clean the
sump thoroughly, using a wire brush with a long handle, before re-
placing the assembly on the oil pan. Scrape sludge from the bottom
of the oil pan using a wooden paddle, working through the opening from
which the oil strainer was removed.
(4) INSTALLATION. Install a new gasket into the attaching flange
of the oil strainer assembly, and lift it into place against the oil pan
being sure to line up the flat side of the strainer flange with the flat side
of the oil pan bolt-on flange. Install cap screws and lock washers and
143
TM 9-811
65
ABCD
RA PD 31376S
Figure 51Cam and Idler End Play Adjustment
Figure 52Removing Oil Strainer
RA PD 303713
144
TM 9-811
65-66
tighten them progressively until the assembly is firmly attached. Re-
place the drain plugs and fill the crankcase with lubricating oil (par. 26 ).
b. Oil Pan Removal.
(1) DRAIN OIL FROM ENGINE CRANKCASE. Remove the drain
plug from the oil strainer assembly and from the back of the oil pan,
and drain lubricant into suitable receptacle.
( 2 ) REMOVE OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY (par. 65 ).
(3) REMOVE CRANKING MOTOR (par. 97).
(4) REMOVE OIL PAN. Remove the cap screws and lock washers
holding the pan to the engine bell housing. Remove the cap screws
and lock washers holding the oil pan to the engine crankcase. The
oil pan may then be slipped out by tilting it to the left and working it
back until it is clear of all obstructions.
c. Oil Pan Cleaning. Wash the oil pan out with dry-cleaning
solvent. Scrape off any hardened sludge or carbon which cannot be
removed by scrubbing. Be sure to clean the oil pan chambers behind
the baffle plates. Also, clean the oil strainer assembly (par. 65 a).
d. Oil Pan Installation.
(1) GENERAL. In installing the oil pan, it is essential that no
springing of the bell housing is caused as this would make possible an
oil leak due to contact of the oil thrower on the crankshaft, with the
opening in the bell housing. Any springing of the oil pan assembly is
likely to cause a leak along the joints.
(2) INSTALL OIL PAN. Lift the oil pan into place with new gaskets
on the horizontal bolt-on flanges of the oil pan, and a new gasket along
'the bolt-on flange which attaches to the bell housing. This latter gasket
may be made up by cutting a bell housing gasket in half and using the
lower portion. Install the attaching cap screws and lock washers, and
tighten them so they just begin to take hold, then tighten the upper
cap screws which attach the pan to the bell housing, and the rear cap
screws which attach the pan to the crankcase. Tighten these cap screws
in a progressive fashion until all are tight. Then tighten the remaining
cap screws between the oil pan and the engine bell housing. After this
is done, tighten the remaining cap screws between the oil pan and the
engine crankcase. Be sure that all tightening is accomplished grad-
ually, working the wrench around the oil pan.
(3) INSTALL THE OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY WITH A NEW GASKET
(par. 65 a).
(4) INSTALL THE DRAIN PLUGS AND FILL THE CRANKCASE WITH
LUBRICANT (par. 24).
(5) INSTALL CRANKING MOTOR. Install the cranking motor as
described in paragraph 97.
66. OIL FILTERS.
a. General. A double oil filter assembly of the removal cartridge
type "is mounted on the left side of the engine cylinder block. Oil is
delivered directly to the filters from the oil pump where it is cleaned
of all dirt and sludge which it may accumulate in passing through the
engine.
73461* O-47-10 145
TM 9-811
66
b. Service Oil Filters. Remove the drain plug at the base of each
filter assembly and drain out the oil which is held in the filter cases.
Remove the nuts from the tops of the filter cases and take off the copper
and paper gaskets which are under them. Then lift off the covers. The
cartridges can then be lifted out of the cases for cleaning or replace-
ment (fig. 53). If the cartridges are not replaced, the sludge and dirt
particles should be scraped from them with a wooden paddle. The oil
filter cans should be wiped out to remove all traces of sludge and dirt.
NOTE: The rear oil filter is located underneath one of the vehicle horn
Figure 53Removing Oif Filter Cartridge
assemblies. Tape the horn relay connection to avoid short-circuiting
the hot wire, as the filter cartridge is withdrawn frotn the case.
c. Assemble Oil Filters. Install the drain plugs in each of the
filter cases. Insert new cartridges or clean cartridges into the cases
from the top, then secure the covers in place with the nuts which were
removed, using both paper and copper gaskets under the cover nuts.
d. Add Lubricant to Engine Crankcase. Start engine and add
lubricant to bring level to full mark on dip stick.
146
TM 9-811
67-68
67. CRANKCASE BREATHER.
a. General. An oil-bath type breather assembly is installed over
the crankcase filler tube.
b. Servicing Crankcase Breather.
(1) Unsnap the clips holding the breather sump to the breather.
(2) Take out the sump and wire mesh assembly (fig. 54).
(3) Remove the mesh from the sump and clean these two parts
thoroughly in a dry-cleaning solvent.
Figure 54Removing Breather Sump and Mesh
(4) Dip the mesh in engine oil and fill the sump to the proper level
and install these parts onto the breather assembly, fastening them se-
curely in place with the snap clips.
68. VISCOMETER.
a. General. The viscometer-consists of a pressure gage which is
marked in graduations indicating the viscosity of the engine lubricant.
This pressure gage registers the pressure of the oil flowing through a
restriction orifice in the oil line, which is an indication of the viscosity
of the oil. The oil pan unit is very delicate, and to function properly
must be kept clean of sludge and dirt which might clog up the orifice,
and thus give a faulty reading on the viscometer gage. There is a wire
147
TM 9-811
68
mesh screen located in the oil pan unit which should be removed pe-
riodically for cleaning.
b. Cleaning Viscometer Screen. Remove the hex plug from
the oil pan unit and pull out the wire mesh screen. Clean the screen
thoroughly in dry-cleaning solvent. Then replace the screen assembly
and reinstall the plug (fig. 55).
Figure 55Removing Viscometer Screen
TM 9-811
69
Section XV
ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Paragraph
Engine removal 69
Engine installation 70
THERMOSTAT HOUSING
CRANKCASE VENTILATING
METERING VALVE
RA PD 303790
Figure 56Engine Asssembly, Right Side
69.
ENGINE REMOVAL (figs. 56 and 57).
a. Drain Cooling System. Open petcock in radiator inlet fitting,
and petcock on left side of cylinder block, and allow water to drain
from the radiator and from the block. If an antifreeze solution is used,
the water should be drained into a bucket so that it may be used again.
b. Drain Oil from Engine. Remove the two drain plugs in the
bottom of the engine oil pan and drain the oil into a clean bucket
c. Remove Engine Hood (par. 185).
d. Remove Radiator (par. 85).
e. Disconnect Bond Strap from Compressor Discharge Line
to Left Frame Rail. Remove the cap screw, lock washer and toothed
lock washer holding the bond to the air line and disconnect bond.
149
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f. Remove Air Lines to Compressor. Disconnect the fittings at
the end of the air lines between the compressor and the air reservoir and
remove this line. Disconnect the fitting at the governor on the end of
the line between the governor and the air compressor.
g. Disconnect Fuel Line. Disconnect the flexible fuel line be-
tween the fuel filter and the fuel pump at the fuel pump.
h. Disconnect Oil Lines. Disconnect the oil lines to the pressure
gage, and to the viscosity gage at the ends of the flexible lines.
i. Disconnect Tachometer Cable. Remove the tachometer cable
clamp, and disconnect the cable at the adapter below the distributor.
CRANKCASE BREATHER FILTER
ENGINE Al* CLEANER
ENGINE OIL FILTERS
OIL FILTER DRAIN PLUGS
FUEL PUMP AND FILTE*
RA PD 303791
Figure 57Engine Assembly, Left Side
j. Disconnect Ignition Wire. Disconnect the ignition wire at the
coil, and remove the two wire clamps.
k. Disconnect Distributor Control Cable. Loosen the distributor
control wire screw, and disconnect the control wire at the distributor.
1. Disconnect Oil Pan Bond Strap. Remove the nut and lock
washer holding the bond strap to the differential of the front axle, and
remove the end of the bond strap and the toothed lock washer from
the differential stud.
m. Disconnect Generator Wires. Disconnect the generator
ground, armature and field wires at the generator.
n. Disconnect Generator Bond Strap. Remove the screw, lock
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69
washer, toothed lock washer and nut holding the bond strap to the
generator.
o. Disconnect Cranking Motor Wires. Disconnect the battery
cable and cranking motor switch wires from the solenoid mounted on
top of the starter.
p. Disconnect Carburetor Linkage. Disconnect accelerator rod
at carburetor, and disconnect the choke and hand throttle control wires
at the carburetor.
q. Disconnect Cylinder Head to Cowl Bond. Remove the rear
cylinder head cap screw holding the bond between the head and the
Figure 58Disconnecting Front Engine Mounting
cowl to the head, disconnect the bond and remove the toothed lock
washer.
r. Disconnect Heat Indicator. Remove the hex adapter holding
the temperature gage bulb in the rear cylinder head, and disconnect
the bulb from the head.
s. Disconnect Air Lines from Top of Flywheel Housing. Re-
move the cap screws and lock washers holding the air line clamps to
the flywheel housing, and pull the lines away from the housing.
t. Disconnect Exhaust Tube. Remove the nuts and bolts attach-
ing the exhaust tube to the exhaust manifold. Loosen up the exhaust
line supporting clamps, so that the exhaust line assembly can be shifted
back in the chassis (par. 82).
151
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u. Remove Transmission (par. 104).
v. Remove the Top Water Manifold. Remove the cap" screws
and lock washers holding the top water manifold to the cylinder head,
and remove the manifold and gaskets, as described in par. 59.
w. Remove the Rear Engine Mounting PartsLeft Side. Re-
move the cotter pin holding the mounting nut, and then remove the
bolt, nut and spring.
x. Remove the Rear Engine Mounting PartsRight Side. Re-
move the cotter pin holding the nut, and then remove the bolt and nut.
y. Remove the Front Engine Mounting Parts. Remove the
cotter pins holding the nuts, and then remove the bolts, nuts, washers
and lower insulators (fig. 58).
z. Lift Engine from Chassis. Attach a lifting bar to the water
manifold openings in the cylinder head and run a chain over the bar
so that a lift hook may be attached. The assembly will have to be
worked forward at the same time it is lifted, in order that the rear of
the engine will clear the cowl. A wrecker truck crane can be readily
used for removing the engine (fig. 59).
aa. Remove Engine Mounting Insulators. Remove the two
round insulators from the mounting pads on the front cross member,
and remove the two rectangular insulators from the pads on the rear
mounting brackets on the frame rails.
70. ENGINE INSTALLATION.
a. Install Engine Mounting Insulators. Install the two large
round insulators in place on top of the mounting pads on the front
frame cross member, and place the two rectangular insulators on the
pads of the rear mounting brackets.
b. Install Engine in Chassis. Attach a lifting bar to the water
manifold openings in the cylinder head, and run a chain over the bar
so a lift hook may be attached. Lift the engine assembly into position
above the engine compartment and then lower it into place, at the
same time working it back to get the rear end of the block and the bell
housing under the cowl, and to line up the mounting brackets with the
mounting insulators. Then lower the assembly into place until mount-
ing brackets on the engine just touch the insulators, and then shift the
engine assembly around to line up the holes in the engine mounting
brackets, insulators and the frame mounting pads, and install mount-
ing bolts. Then lower the engine and take all the weight off the hoist.
Disconnect the hoist from the lifting bar and remove the lifting bar
(fig. 59).
c. Install the Front Engine Mounting Parts. Slide a small circu-
lar insulator over each of the front trunnion mounting bolts from the
bottom and then install the washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts with
a torque wrench to a reading of 40 foot-pounds. Then install the cotter
pins through the slotted nuts.
d. Install Rear Engine Mounting Parts. Install a spring and
nut over the mounting bolt on the left side of the engine and tighten
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the nut with a torque wrench to a reading of 20 foot-pounds, and then
install a cotter pin through the slotted nut. Install a nut on the mount-
ing bolt on the right side of the engine, and tighten with a torque
wrench to a reading of 20 foot-pounds.
e. Install Transmission (par. 105).
f. Install Exhaust Tube. Slide the exhaust tube assembly forward
in the chassis to engage the exhaust flange with the exhaust manifold
flange, and bolt the flanges together with the nuts, bolts and washers
which were removed. Then tighten the exhaust line U-bolt support
and the tail pipe clamp (par. 82).
30390S
Figure 59Installing Engine in Chassis
g. Connect Air Lines to Top of Flywheel Housing. Lay the air
lines into place on top of the flywheel housing, and attach the clamp to
the housing with the cap screws and lock washers which were removed.
h. Install Top Water Manifold. Install the top water manifold
on the engine, as described in paragraph 61.
i. Install Heat Indicator. Insert the heat indicator bulb into the
hole in the rear cylinder head, and then slide the hexagon adapter into
place and screw it up tight. Use white lead on the threads of the adapter
to make a good seal.
j. Install Cylinder Head to Cowl Bond Strap. Remove the right
rear cylinder head cowl bond strap under it, using the .toothed lock
washer which was removed.
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k. Connect Carburetor Linkage. Connect the accelerator rod
to the accelerator linkage on the carburetor and fasten in place with
a cotter pin. Then connect the choke and hand throttle control wires
to the carburetor, adjusting them as described in paragraph 76.
1. Connect Cranking Motor Wires. Connect the battery cable
and cranking motor switch wires to the solenoid switch mounted on
top of the cranking motor ( fig. 82 ).
m. Connect Generator Bond Strap. Hold the end of the bond
strap running between the generator and the frame in place against the
mounting clip on the generator head band and attach it in place with
the screw, lock washer, toothed lock washer and nut which were re-
moved.
n. Connect Generator Wires. Connect the generator, ground,
armature and field wires to the generator (fig. 79).
o. Install Oil Pan Bond Strap. Hold the end of the bond strap
running between the engine oil pan and the front axle differential car-
rier in position against the carrier, and attach in place with the nut, lock
washer and toothed lock washer which were removed.
p. Connect Distributor Control Cable. Insert the distributor
control wire through the clamp on the advance arm. Push the button
flush with the dash, and advance the arm as far as possible before tight-
ening the clamping screw.
q. Connect Ignition Wire. Connect the ignition wire to the coil
primary circuit terminal, and attach wire in place by installing the
clamps which were disconnected.
r. Connect Tachometer Cable. Install the tachometer cable
clamp, install the end of the cable into the adapter under the distributor,
and tighten the cable nut.
s. Connect Oil Line. Connect the oil lines between the pressure
gage and the engine, and the viscosity gage and the engine at the ends
of the flexible- lines.
t. Connect Fuel Line. Connect the flexible fuel line running be-
tween the fuel filter and the pump to the fuel pump inlet.
u. Install Air Pressure Air Lines. Install the air pressure air
line running between the compressor and the air reservoir, using white
lead on the connector threads in order to make a tight seal. Then con-
nect the air line running between the air compressor and the governor
to the governor, using white lead on the connector threads.
v. Install Bond Strap to -Compressor Discharge Line. Attach
the bond strap running between the air compressor discharge line and
the left frame rail to the line, using the cap screw, lock washer, toothed
lock washer and nut which were removed.
w. Install Radiator. Install the radiator, as described in para-
graph 85.
x. Install Engine Hood. Install the hood assembly, as described
in paragraph 185.
y. Fill Engine Crankcase with Lubricating Oil (par. 26).
z. Fill Cooling System with Water or Antifreeze (par. 84).
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Section XVI
CLUTCH
Paragraph
Adjustment 72
Removal 73
Installation 74
a. Description.
(1) GENERAL. The clutch is a single-plate, dry-disk type, all parts
of which are locked to the flywheel and rotate with it, with the excep-
tion of the driven disk which is-disconnected when the clutch is re-
leased. Driving pressure is provided by the heavy spiral spring located
in the rear face of the clutch cover.
(2) OPERATION. When the clutch pedal is depressed the release
sleeve is moved toward the flywheel, acting on the hinged levers in a
manner opposite to the spring pressure on them. This relieves the pres-
sure against the pressure plate and the retractor springs prevent its
contact with the driven plate, thus releasing the clutch. As the pedal
is released the spring again transmits pressure through the levers (this
pressure is multiplied by the action of 20 ball-mounted levers) to press
the driven plate between the pressure plate and the flywheel, thus en-
gaging the clutch. The hinged levers are provided with raised edges
which, because of their fan-like action, force cooling air through the
clutch spring and into the clutch.
b. Tabulated Data.
Type Single-plate, dry-disk
Make W. C. Lipe
Model Z42-S
Facings:
Area 256 sq in.
Outside diameter 15 inches
Inside diameter 8 inches
Thickness .. %z in.
Spring:
Type Spiral
Number used 1
Clutch throwout bearing:
Type Ball with retainer
Make Aetna
Model A-959-1
Clutch pilot bearing:
Type Ball
Make New Departure
Model , 7605
155
71
156
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CLEARANCE
RA PD 304973
Figure 60Cfufch Adjustment
TM 9-811
71-72
CLUTCH
Adjustment:
Length of sleeve travel %6 in.
Dimension "A" (fig. 60) from face of flywheel
ring to face of release sleeve with
clutch engaged 1 Vs in. + ^B in-0 in-
Free pedal travel 1 in.1 Vi in.
72. ADJUSTMENT.
a. General. The clutch adjustment is made by means of shims
held between the adjusting plate and the flywheel ring. As the facings
on the driven disk wear, shims must be removed in order to restore the
spring pressure to its normal load and to obtain proper free pedal
travel which should be 1 to 1 Vz inch. As the facings wear, the clutch
TO REMOVE SHIM, APPLY SHARP NOSED
PLIERS TO LIP OF SHIM "A", OR INSERT
COTTER PIN PULLER IN HOLE "B" OF
SHIM.
SHIM
SPLIT FOR
EASY REMOVAL
RA PD 313797
Figure 61Shim Removal
sleeve moves toward the release bearing, reducing the clearance on this
sleeve. This reduced clearance will result in a reduction of the free
pedal travel. Thus the need for a clutch adjustment is indicated as
soon as the free travel becomes less than 1 inch.
(1) CAUTION. Never wait for a clutch to slip before adjusting it.
It is too late then to make the adjustment, because the facings quickly
disintegrate once they become burned through slippage. Never adjust
the pedal or pedal linkage to correct the free pedal travel. Always ad-
just the clutch.
b. Clutch Adjustment.
(1) REMOVE HANDHOLE COVER FROM BOTTOM OF CLUTCH
HOUSING. Take out the cap screws and lock washers holding the cover
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TM 9-811
72
to the clutch housing and remove the cover. Block the pedal in the
released position.
(2) BACK OFF ADJUSTING STRAP NUTS. Back off the six hex nuts
holding the adjusting straps and shims to the flywheel ring. It will be
necessary to turn the engine over to line up the adjusting strap nuts with
the opening in the clutch housing.
(3 ) ENGAGE THE CLUTCH. Remove the block from the clutch pedal
to engage the clutch so that the adjusting plate will move out of con-
tact with the adjusting shims.
(4) REMOVE SHIMS. Using a long-nose pliers, grip the lip of the
top shim under each adjusting strap and pull them from the flywheel
ring studs. Be sure that no portion of the shim is left between the ad-
justing plate and the flywheel ring and also be sure that the same num-
ber of shims are removed from under each adjusting strap. A sufficient
number of shims should be removed to maintain dimension "A" (fig.
60) at 1 Va inch, plus r\<: inch. Each shim removed decreases dimension
"A" by %4 inch (fig. 61).
(5) TIGHTEN ADJUSTING STRAP NUTS. Block the clutch in the
released position to allow the adjusting plates to move into contact
with the shims, and then tighten each adjusting strap nut while turning
the engine over with the hand crank to line up the nuts with the
opening in the handhole cover.
(6) CHECK ADJUSTMENT. Using the clutch adjusting gage shown
in figure 60, check dimension "A" to see that it is 1 V& inch + Via inchO
inch. If this gage is not available, dimension "A" may be measured
using a straightedge and a scale. The straightedge is held in place by
pushing the release bearing into contact with it, and then measuring
the distance between the flywheel ring and the straightedge. If dimen-
sion "A" comes out within the limits indicated, the adjustment is com-
plete. If dimension "A" does not come within these limits, it will be
necessary to repeat the operations outlined in (4) above, and to add
or remove the necessary number of shims from under each adjusting
strap to give the proper adjustment.
(7) CHECK CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE RELEASE BEARING AND
CLUTCH^SLEEVE. Check the clearance between the release bearing and
the clutch sleeve to see that it is not less than Vs in. nor more than -%2
in. If this clearance is not within the prescribed limits, it will be neces-
sary to adjust the clutch linkage to correct it.
(8) ADJUST CLUTCH LINKAGE. Loosen the clamping nut in the
clutch pedal adjusting slot and move the pedal into the proper position
to give the specified clearance between the release bearing and the
clutch sleeve. CAUTION: Never adjust the pedal linkage until after
the clutch adjustment has been made.
(9) INSTALL HANDHOLE COVER. After clutch adjustment is com-
plete and all the adjusting strap nuts are tight, install the handhole
cover into position, and fasten it with cap screws and lock washers.
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CLUTCH
73. REMOVAL.
a. Remove Transmission. Disconnect the propeller shaft from
the transmission companion flange, remove the cap screws holding the
transmission clutch housing to the engine bell housing, and lower the
transmission to the ground (par. 104).
b. Remove the Clutch Assembly. Remove the cap screws and
lock washers holding the clutch flywheel ring to the engine flywheel,
and lift the clutch assembly out of the bell housing (see fig. 62).
RA-PD 3038851
Figure 62Removing Clutch and Driven Disk
c. Remove Driven Disk. After the clutch assembly is removed,
lift the driven disk out of the bell housing.
d. Remove Clutch Pilot Bearing. If it is necessary to remove
the clutch pilot bearing, it may be pulled, using clutch pilot bearing
puller (41-P-2906-15) (fig. 63).
e. Cleaning. Clean all parts thoroughly in dry-cleaning solvent.
f. Inspection. Examine the clutch assembly for broken or dam-
aged parts which might prevent efficient clutch performance. If de-
fective parts are found, the clutch assembly must be replaced. Examine
the driven disk for signs of warpage or defective facings. If the facings
are worn thin, or are badly oil-soaked, they must be replaced.
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TM 9-811
74
74. INSTALLATION.
a. Install Pilot Bearing. Drive the pilot bearing into position
in the flywheel, using a drift to pound on the outer race only. Be sure
that the shielded side of the bearing is facing out.
b. Install Driven Disk. Place the driven disk into position in
the flywheel, with the longer end of the hub facing out.
c. Install Clutch Assembly. Lift the clutch assembly into place
against the engine flywheel. Before attaching the clutch assembly in
Figure 63Putting Clutch Pilot Bearing with Puffer 41-P-2906-I5
place, procure a clutch pilot shaft (an extra transmission main drive
gear assembly will serve satisfactorily) and install this through the
center of the clutch, engaging the splines with those in the driven disk
hub and inserting the end of the shaft into the pilot bearing. With the
clutch pilot shaft in place, install the cap screws and lock washers which
mount the clutch assembly to the flywheel, and. tighten these securely.
Then remove the clutch pilot shaft.
d. Install Transmission. Install the transmission and connect the
propeller shaft (par. 105).
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Section XVII
FUEL SYSTEM
Paragraph
Carburetor 76
Fuel pump and filter 77
Governor 78
Fuel tank and lines 79
a. Description. The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, fuel
lines, fuel filter, fuel pump, carburetor and governor. The various units,
working together, function to deliver a clean, metered, atomized fuel
into the combustion chambers of the engine.
b. Tabulated Data.
(1) FUEL TANK.
Capacity 40 gal
Location Outside L. H. frame rail
(2) FUEL FILTER.
Make Zenith
Type Laminated
Location Outside L. H. frame rail
(3) FUEL PUMP.
Make AC
Type Cam and lever
Model Series "D"
Pressure 2Vz lb
(4) CARBURETOR.
Make Zenith
Model , IN167SJ
Assembly tag No.. DX5787-09840
Fuel valve seat No. 55
Accelerator and power jet No. 20
Idling jet No. 18
Main jet No.33
Main discharge jet No. 45-1
Well vent No. 26
Venturi No. 34
(5) GOVERNOR.
Make Pierce
Type Mechanical flyball
Model MA-1325A
Setting (max. engine rpm) 2300
76. CARBURETOR.
a. Description. The carburetor is a downdraft type with double
venturi. It is a balanced carburetor which maintains the proper de-
pression ratio between the air intake and the fuel bowl. The air cleaner
restrictions have a minimum influence on the mixture ratio, because air
734619 O - 47 - 11 161
TM 9-811
76
FUEL SYSTEM
achieved as indicated by the tachometer on the dash (fig. 64). The
idling speed should be between 400 and 500 rpm.
(4) IDLING ADJUSTMENT. After the engine is warm, the idling
adjusting screw should be turned until the engine runs smoothly (fig.
64). Turn the screw clockwise to richen the mixture, and counterclock-
wise to lean it. It is best to turn the adjusting screw in until the engine
starts to run lumpy, and then back it off and count the number of
turns to cause the engine to miss again. Then run the screw in for half
that many turns to secure the proper adjustment. Adjusting the idling
speed in no way affects carburetor performance at higher engine speed.
c. Carburetor Removal.
(1) REMOVE AIR CLEANER TUBE. Back off air cleaner tube clamp
screw at the carburetor neck, and lift the tube assembly clear of the
carburetor.
(2) REMOVE CHOKE WIRE. Loosen the clamping screw holding
the choke wire to the carburetor. Loosen the choke cable clamp, and
pull the cable and wire assembly clear of the carburetor.
(3) DISCONNECT ACCELERATOR ROD. Remove the cotter pin from
the accelerator rod at the carburetor, and pull the rod away from the
link.
(4) DISCONNECT THROTTLE WIRE. Back off the throttle wire
clamp screw, and disconnect the wire from the carburetor.
(5) DISCONNECT FUEL LINE FROM CARBURETOR. Using two end
wrenches, disconnect the fuel inlet line at the carburetor.
(6) REMOVE THE NUTS FROM THE CARBURETOR BODY FLANGE
MOUNTING STUDS. Turn the nuts from the studs. As the nuts come
up from the studs, it will be necessary to lift the carburetor assembly
in order to get sufficient clearance to run the nuts off the ends of the
studs.
(7) REMOVE THE CARBURETOR SHIELD AND SLOTTED GASKET.
d. Carburetor Installation.
(1) INSTALL NEW GASKET. Install a new slotted gasket on top of
the governor valve box.
(2) INSTALL CARBURETOR. Assemble the carburetor shield over
the carburetor housing flange, and slide the assembly over the housing
studs. Before running the carburetor all the way down on the s
assemble the stud nuts and tighten these a sufficient amount so t
they will clear the carburetor bowl. Then tighten the carburetor
mg nuts evenly so as not to distort the housing flange.
(3) CONNECT FUEL LINE. Connect the fuel inlet line to the top c
the carburetor using two wrenches to insure a tight coupling.
(4) CONNECT HAND THROTTLE WIRE. Run the hand thrtitl
through the link. Push the throttle button flush with the dash, and th
tighten the throttle clamp screw while holding the throttle val
the way closed. . t
(5) CONNECT ACCELERATOR ROD. Insert the end of the*f "J" in
rod through the accelerator link, and install a cotter pir
place.
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TM 9-811
76-77
(6) CONNECT CHOKE WIRE. Insert the choke wire through the
hole in the choke valve link arm. Then tighten the choke cable in the
cable clamp. With the choke button pressed flush with the dash, tighten
the wire clamping screw while holding the choke valve wide open.
(7) INSTALL AIR CLEANER TUBE. Assemble the end of the air
cleaner tube over the carburetor. Connect and tighten the clamping
screw.
77. FUEL PUMP AND FILTER.
a. Fuel Pump.
(1) DESCRIPTION. The fuel pump is a diaphragm type, mechani-
cally operated by a pin working in the cylinder block between the cam-
shaft eccentric and fuel pump rocker arm. The pump depends on the
vacuum created in the pump chamber by the downward movements of
the diaphragm to draw the fuel from the tank to the pumping chamber.
Fuel is then forced into the carburetor as the diaphragm is forced up-
ward by the diaphragm spring. A bowl is clamped on the side of the
pump which acts as a sediment trap to prevent foreign matter from
entering the pump and to collect water from the fuel.
(2) FUEL BOWL. To remove the bowl, loosen the thumb screw at
the bottom of the bail wire so that the bowl can be slipped out. Clean
the bowl, removing any water or dirt which may have accumulated
in it. Install the clean bowl on the pump and tighten the bail thumb
screw to hold it in place. Start the engine and watch the pump for
any signs of leakage around the bowl. If leakage is apparent, replace
the bowl gasket.
(3) REMOVAL.
(a) Disconnect Flexible Fuel Line. Using two wrenches, discon-
nect the flexible fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel pump at the
pump.
(b) Disconnect Copper Fuel Line. Using two wrenches, disconnect
the fuel line between the carburetor and the fuel pump at the pump.
(c) Remove Fuel Pump. Remove the cap screws and the lock
washers holding the fuel pump to the cylinder block and remove the
pump and mounting gaskets.
(4) TEST OF FUEL PUMP. Refer to paragraph 42 h.
(5) FUEL PUMP INSTALLATION.
(a) General. Care must be exercised when installing the fuel pump
to be sure that the rocker arm is against the fuel pump drive pin after
the pump assembly is fastened in place. Unless the instructions given
below are followed "very carefully, a great deal of trouble may be en-
countered in attempting to make the pump function properly.
(b) Remove the Slotted Pipe Plug from the Cylinder Block Just
Above the Fuel Pump Opening.
(c) Insert a %-inch Drift Punch into the Pipe Plug Opening. Push
the drift punch in so that fuel pump drive pin is forced all the way
back against the camshaft eccentric (fig. 65). Then turn the engine
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TM 9-811
77
FUEL SYSTEM
pver until it is in such a position that the punch is all the way back.
This position is easy to obtain by exerting pressure against the drift
punch and turning the engine over until the punch is as far into the
block as it will go. Then remove the drift punch and replace the pipe
plug.
(d) Relieve Diaphragm Spring Pressure from Rocker Arm. Pull the
fuel pump priming handle as far up as it will go and wire the handle in
this position to relieve the pressure of the diaphragm spring from the
rocker arm.
Figure 65Locating Drive Pin with Drift
(e) Install Fuel Pump (fig. 66). Install the gasket onto the pump,
and lift the assembly into place against the engine. Insert the rocker
arm through the opening in the cylinder block and then lift the pump
up as high as possible. Push it firmly against the mounting bosses and
move it down into position to line up the cap screw holes and mounting
flange with those in the block. NOTE: This must be done very care-
fully, holding the pump in a vertical position as it is slid down. The
assembly must be held firmly against the block at all times so that the
rocker arm will not slip over the drive pin. Install cap screws and lock
washers to attach the assembly to the engine. Remove wire from
priming lever.
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TM 9-811
77
(f) Start the Engine to Test the Operation of the Fuel Pump. If
the engine will not run after a reasonable number of tries, remove the
fuel pump and repeat the procedure in step (e) above, being careful
to see that the push rod is in contact with the drive pin before the
pump is attached to the engine.
b. Fuel Filter.
(1) DESCRIPTION. The fuel filter is mounted on the outside of the
left-hand frame rail between the fuel tank and pump. It consists of a
Figure 66Installing Fuel Pump
filter element encased in a metal bowl. The element is the laminated
type made up of a series of thin disks held apart by spacer shims.
(2) DRAINING FILTER BOWL. Remove the drain plug from the
lower part of the filter bowl and allow its contents to drain. Then re-
place the drain plug arid gasket.
(3) CLEANING FILTER ELEMENT.
(a) Remove the bowl nut and bowl nut gasket, and take off the
bowl assembly.
(b) Remove the element nut from the assembly stud, and pull
the element assembly from the filter body (fig. 67).
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77
FUEL SYSTEM
(c) Wash the element and the bowl in dry-cleaning solvent and
blow out with compressed air.
(d) Install the element over the assembly stud, and run the ele-
ment nut up against it to hold it in place. Fingertightness is sufficient.
Do not use any tools on this nut.
Figure 67Removing Fuel Filter Element
(e) Replace the filter bowl and gasket over the assembly stud so
that it nests with the fuel filter body, and fasten in place with the bowl
nut and gasket.
(4) REMOVAL. Disconnect the fuel lines running between the fuel
pump and the fuel filter and between the fuel tank and the fuel filter
167
TM 9-811
77-79
at the filter. Then remove the cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding
the filter assembly to the frame rail, and remove the filter.
(5) INSTALLATION. Attach the fuel filter assembly to the frame
rail using the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were removed.
Then connect the fuel lines between the fuel tank and fuel filter, and
between the fuel pump and fuel filter to the filter.
78. GOVERNOR.
a. The governor is the mechanical-flyball type, actuated by a gear
drive through a pilot hole in the camshaft side of the gear cover. The
conventional butterfly valve is located in the governor valve box be-
tween carburetor and manifold and is controlled by the flyball mech-
anism. The governor is set to limit the engine speed to 2300 rpm and this
setting should not be changed. This engine develops its peak horse-
power at this speed and to overrun it results in a loss of power. Do not
remove the governor seal.
79. FUEL TANK AND LINES.
a. Fuel Tank.
(1) DESCRIPTION. A 60-gallon fuel tank is mounted outside the
left-hand frame rail under the cab. It is equipped with a large opening
filler spout, with the cap chained to the tank. A float-type fuel gage
tank unit is mounted in the tank through an opening in the top.
(2) REMOVAL.
(a) Remove Seat Cushions. Remove the seat cushion on the
driver's side of the cab, as described in paragraph 182.
(b) Disconnect Fuel Line. Remove the handhole cover in the bot-
tom of the compartment under the driver's seat, and disconnect fuel
line from the tank.
(c) Disconnect Fuel Gage Wires. Working through the handhole
in the compartment under the driver's seat, disconnect the wires from
the terminals of the fuel gage tank unit.
(d) Disconnect Fuel Line Clip. Remove the screws holding the
floor board on the driver's side of the cab, and remove the floor board.
Then bend the fuel line clip up far enough to disconnect the line from it.
(e) Remove Running Board. Remove the running board on the
driver's side of the cab, as described in paragraph 188.
(f) Remove Fuel Tank and Shield. Remove the cap screws, nuts
and lock washers holding the fuel tank shield and strap to the front
running board support. Then remove the cotter pins, nuts, plain
washers, springs and cap screws holding the shield and strap to the
rear running board support. Slide the fuel tank and shield assembly
out from under the cab. The fuel tank may then be slipped out of the
shield, and the webbed insulator straps may be removed,
(3) INSTALLATION.
(a) Install Fuel Tank and Shield. Install the fuel tank into the
shield with the webbed strap insulators in place between the tank and
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FUEL SYSTEM
shield, and the tank and shield straps. Then place the insulator straps
on the running board supports so that they will lie between tank and
the supports after the tank is installed. Lift the tank and shield assem-
bly, and support it on the running board supports and slide it into posi-
tion, being careful to keep the strap insulators in place. Install cap
screws, nuts and lock washers holding the shield and strap to the front
running board support, and tighten them securely. Install the long cap
screws holding the shield and strap to the rear running board support,
and then install the spring, plain washer and nut over the end of each of
these. Tighten nuts a sufficient amount so that the coils of the springs
almost touch each other, and then install cotter pins through the ends
of the cap screws and the slotted nuts.
(b) Replace Running Board. Replace the running board as de-
scribed in paragraph 188.
(c) Connect Fuel Line Clip. Slide the fuel line into position under
the clip on the fuel line tank shield strap, and then bend the clip down
to hold the fuel line in place. Install the floorboard on the driver's side
of the cab, and fasten it in place with the screws which were removed.
(d) Connect Fuel Line. Working through the handhole in the bot-
tom of the compartment under the driver's seat, connect the fuel line
to the fuel tank.
(e) Connect Fuel Gage Wires. Working through the handhole in
the bottom of the compartment under the driver's seat, connect the
wires to the terminals of the fuel gage tank unit. Then replace the
handhole cover.
(f) Install Seat Cushion. Install the driver's seat cushion, as de-
b. Fuel Lines.
(1) DESCRIPTION. All fuel lines running between the fuel tank,
fuel filter, fuel pump and carburetor are copper or flexible tubing.
Flexible tubing is used between the fuel pump on the engine and the
fuel filter on the frame to eliminate fuel line breakage due to vibration.
All copper tubing is covered with loom.
(2) INSTALL FUEL LINES. Copper tubing is generally stocked in
coils of considerable length, so that the first job is cutting it to size.
Measure the piece of tubing being replaced, and cut a piece from the
coil equal to this length. Then ream out the ends of the tubing with
the reamer on the cutting tool to get rid of sharp burs or loose pieces
of metal. Install the loom on the tubing and the connector nuts over
each end of the tubing with the threaded ends facing out. Then use a
flaring tool to form a tight flare on each end of the tubing. If the flare
is cracked, it must be cut off and a new one formed. Bend the tubing
to shape, being careful to avoid sharp bends and kinks. The fuel lines
are held in place with clips, and may be readily replaced.
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* Section XVIII
INTAKE AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS
Paragraph
Description 80
Air cleaner 81
Exhaust system 82
80. DESCRIPTION.
a. Air Cleaner. The air cleaner is an oil-bath type, mounted on
brackets attached to the cylinder head at the left side of the engine
(fig. 57). It is intended to keep dust and dirt from entering the engine.
1. Exhaust System. The exhaust system comprises an exhaust
tube from the engine manifold, a small space tubular baffle manifold,
and a tail pipe. The exhaust tube has a flanged coupling which is bolted
to the exhaust manifold companion flange. The manifold is supported
at the inlet side by a U-bolt, and the tail pipe is hung from the frame
side rail.
81. AIR CLEANER.
a. Servicing Air Cleaner.
(1) REMOVE SUMP. Loosen the wing nuts which hold the sump
to the assembly, and lower it out of contact with the cleaner and then
lift it from the engine compartment.
(2) REMOVE FILTER ELEMENT. Unscrew the long eyebolt which
extends through the filter element far enough so that the element as-
sembly may be removed from the cleaner.
(3) CLEAN AIR CLEANER. Pour the contaminated oil from the air
cleaner sump, and then scrape any hardened mud or dirt which may
have accumulated in the bottom of the pan. Wash the sump thor-
oughly in dry-cleaning solvent. Clean the element mesh by immersion
in dry-cleaning solvent. Agitation will speed up the cleaning process.
Before the element is reinstalled in the air cleaner it should be dipped
in engine oil of the same grade which is used in the crankcase and then
allowed to drain a few minutes to permit the excess oil to drain off.
(4) INSTALL ELEMENT. Install the element assembly in the air
cleaner case with the dished baffle plate facing down. Run the eyebolt
through the mesh and screw it into the threaded hole in the top of the
cleaner case until it is tight enough to hold the element assembly
securely.
(5) INSTALL SUMP. Fill sump with engine oil of the same grade
as used in the crankcase, to the full mark as indicated by the bead level
mark on the pan. Then install the sump into place on the cleaner so
that the attaching bolts may be run through the attaching ears on the
sump pan. Then install the wing nuts and tighten them securely.
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b. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT AIR CLEANER TUBES TO CARBURETOR. Loosen
the clamping screw at the bottom of the air cleaner tube elbow and
lift the assembly clear of the carburetor neck.
(2) REMOVE AIR CLEANER TUBE. Loosen the screw in the rubber
tubing clamp at the air cleaner outlet, and twist the tube assembly
from the carburetor.
(3) REMOVE AIR CLEANER. Remove the two clamp screws and
nuts from the air cleaner, bend clamps, and lift the air cleaner assembly
out of the engine compartment (fig. 121).
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER. Place the air cleaner into position
in the mounting clamps with the outlet opening towards the carburetor.
Then install the two clamping bolts and nuts, and tighten these securely
to hold the carburetor in place.
(2) INSTALL AIR CLEANER TUBE. Work the rubber hose over the
end of the air cleaner outlet flange. Then swing the air cleaner tube
elbow on the other end into position over the neck of the carburetor,
and install it in place. Tighten the clamping screw in the rubber tubing
clamp at the air cleaner, and tighten the clamping screw at the bottom
of the air cleaner tube elbow at the carburetor.
82. EXHAUST SYSTEM.
a. Exhaust Tube Replacement.
(1) DISCONNECT MANIFOLD FLANGE. Disconnect the manifold
flange from the manifold by removing the three bolts, washers and
special nuts holding it in place.
(2) DISCONNECT U-BOLT AT FRONT OF MUFFLER. Disconnect
the muffler front U-bolt by removing the two nuts and lock washers.
Then lift out the U-bolt.
(3) DISCONNECT TAIL PIPE CLAMP. Remove the two cap screws,
lock washers and nuts holding the tail pipe clamp to the frame rail.
(4) REMOVE EXHAUST TUBE. Work the exhaust tube back away
from the manifold and then twist it out of the front muffler connection.
(5) INSTALL NEW EXHAUST TUBE. Assemble the manifold flange
over the new exhaust tube and then work the assembly into position
in the chassis. Twist the lower end into the muffler, and then work
the whole assembly forward until the tube engages the exhaust mani-
fold opening.
(6) TIGHTEN MANIFOLD FLANGE. Install the three bolts, washers
and special nuts which were removed from the manifold flange, and
tighten these evenly and securely.
(7) INSTALL MUFFLER MOUNTING. Install the U-bolt over the
muffler inlet flange and through the holes in the mounting bracket,
and then fasten in place with the nuts and lock washers which were
removed.
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(8) FASTEN TAIL PIPE CLAMP. Bolt the tail pipe clamp to the
frame rail with the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were re-
moved.
b. Muffler Replacement.
(1) DISCONNECT MUFFLER FRONT U-BOLT. Remove the nuts
and lock washers from the threaded ends of the U-bolt, and then re-
move it'from the muffler (fig. 68).
(2) DISCONNECT TAIL PIPE BRACKET. Remove the cap screws,
nuts and lock washers holding the tail pipe bracket to the frame rail.
(3) REMOVE MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY. Work the
muffler and tail pipe assembly clear of the exhaust tube. It may be
necessary to twist the assembly, and to tap on the muffler inlet flange
with a hammer to help break it loose.
Figure 68Removing Muffler U-bolt Nuts
(4) REMOVE TAIL PIPE FROM MUFFLER. Disconnect the muffler
tail pipe U-bolt and clamp by removing the nuts and lock washers,
and then pulling off the clamp and U-bolt. Work tail pipe and clamp
assembly loose, and remove this part from the muffler.
(5) INSTALL TAIL PIPE ON NEW MUFFLER. Work the tail pipe
into the outlet opening of the new muffler. Then slip U-bolt and clamp
assembly over this flange, and tighten securely with the nuts and lock
washers which were removed.
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(6) INSTALL MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY IN VEHICLE.
Lift the assembly into position, and work the lower end of the exhaust
tubes into the muffler inlet opening far enough to obtain a secure at-
tachment. Then install the muffler front mounting U-bolt, and fasten
in place with the nuts and lock washers which were removed.
(7) INSTALL TAIL PIPE CLAMP. Fasten the tail pipe clamp to the
frame rail, using the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were
removed.
c. Tail Pipe Replacement.
(1) DISCONNECT MUFFLER REAR U-BOLT AND CLAMP. Remove
the nuts and lock washers from the U-bolt, and then remove the clamp
and bolt.
(2) DISCONNECT TAIL PIPE CLAMP. Remove the cap screws, nuts
and lock washers' holding the tail pipe clamp to the frame rail.
(3) REMOVE TAIL PIPE. Twist the tail pipe out of the muffler
outlet opening. It may be necessary to tap the muffler outlet flange to
help break the tube loose.
(4) REMOVE CLAMP FROM TAIL PIPE. Loosen the clamp screw in
the tail pipe clamp and remove this part from the pipe.
(5) INSTALL TAIL PIPE CLAMP OVER NEW TAIL PIPE. Slide the
clamp over the end of the new tail pipe into its approximate position.
(6) INSTALL TAIL PIPE. Lift the assembly into position and slide
the end of it into the outlet opening of the muffler. Then install the
U-bolt and clamps over the outlet opening flange, and tighten it secure-
ly with the nuts and lock washers which were removed.
(7) ATTACH TAIL PIPE CLAMP. Fasten the tail pipe clamp to the
frame rail with the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were re-
moved.
(8) TIGHTEN TAIL PIPE CLAMPING SCREW. Tighten the clamping
screw in the lower end of the tail pipe clamp.
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Section XIX
COOLING SYSTEM
Paragraph
Servicing cooling system 84
Radiator 85
Fan 86
Water pump 87
Thermostat 88
a. General. The cooling system is made up of the radiator, fan,
water pump, thermostat and miscellaneous fittings, tubing and hoses.
The temperature may exceed 180CF when the engine is laboring on
a hard pull, but if the cooling water reaches the boiling point the ve-
hicle should be stopped, and the cause of overheating determined. This
is a pressure cooling system, with a special valve in the radiator cap
to maintain the pressure of the system several pounds per square inch
above atmospheric pressure. This type of system has the advantage
of a great reduction in the loss of cooling water and permits engine
operation at higher temperatures, as the liquid has a higher boiling
point under the increased pressure in the system.
b. Radiator. A conventional-type radiator is installed on the
front of the chassis mounted on rubber bushings. The assembly con-
sists of a finned tube-type core, two side members, a top tank and bot-
tom tank, a fan shroud and a brush guard.
c. Fan. The fan is a six-bladed, belt-driven type, mounted on a
hub and spindle supported on two opposed tapered roller bearings. The
fan is driven by two V-type belts which are driven by the engine acces-
sory shaft pulley.
d. Water Pump. The water pump assembly is mounted on the
left-hand side of the engine block, and is gear driven through a chain
coupling. It has the impeller located in the pump body.
e. Thermostat. The thermostat is a valve controlling the flow
of water to the radiator for the purpose of raising the water temperature
quickly after the engine is started, and to maintain the cooling water
within the engine at a temperature between 160 and 180F. The valve
is designed to be completely closed at 157F, is just cracking open at
162 F, and is fully open at 185F.
f. Tabulated Data.
(1) RADIATOR.
Type Finned tube
Number of fins to inch 11
Frontal area 636 sq in.
Thickness . 3 in.
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COOLING SYSTEM
(2) FAN.
Model DT-DX5804
Drive Double belt
Blade diameter 22 in.
Number of blades 6
(3) FAN BELT.
Part number DT-N1463E
Number used 2
(4) WATER PUMP.
Type Packless
Location Left side of engine
Drive Gear driven coupling
( 5 ) THERMOSTAT.
Type Bypass
Number DT-BB7815
Thermostat closed at 157F
Thermostat fully open at 185F
(6) COOLING CAPACITY 48 qt
84. SERVICING COOLING SYSTEM.
a.. Adding Water to Cooling System. The radiator cap is the
pressure-type which seals the cooling system from the atmosphere until
the pressure increases beyond the setting limit, in which event seal is
broken and vapor, air or water will escape through the overflow tube
until such time as the pressure in the system has returned to its proper
level. It is very important that this type of radiator cap be removed
slowly when the engine is hot, to prevent scalding the person taking it
off. Turn the cap slightly open and allow the pressure to escape so that
the cap may be removed safely. After the cap is removed, clean, soft
water or antifreeze mixture may be added to the cooling system through
the filler neck in the radiator top tank.
b. Draining Cooling System.
(1) Instructions for draining the cooling system are found on the
instruction plate mounted in the cab of the vehicle (fig. 17).
(2 ) If the cooling system contains antifreeze compound, it should
be saved so that it may be poured into the radiator before the vehicle
is again operated.
(3) Open the petcock located on the bottom of the radiator lower
tank outlet fitting.
(4) Open the petcock on the left side of the cylinder block (fig.57).
c. Filling Cooling System.
(1) Close petcock on the radiator lower tank outlet fitting, and on
the left side of the cylinder block.
(2) Remove the radiator cap and pour clean soft water, or the
antifreeze mixture which was saved when the cooling system was
drained, into the radiator until the level of the liquid is visible through
the filler neck.
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(3) Start the engine, and add water as required to bring the level
up to the top of the overflow.
(4) Replace radiator cap. NOTE: When replacing the radiator
cap, be sure that it is screwed down tightly to prevent the loss of the
cooling liquid.
d. Cleaning Cylinder Block Water Passages.
(1) DRAIN COOLING SYSTEM (par. 84 b).
(2) REMOVE WATER INLET MANIFOLD. Loosen the clamp screw
in the hose clamp at the water inlet manifold inlet and disconnect the
hose from the manifold. Then remove the cap screws and lock washers
holding the water inlet manifold to the cylinder block, and remove the
manifold and gasket.
(3) REMOVE THERMOSTAT (par. 88). After the thermostat is re-
moved, reinstall the thermostat housing without the thermostat.
(4) FLUSH OUT THE BLOCK. Using a pressure gun, force water
into the block through the water outlet manifold. The pressure pro-
duces a high velocity and turbulence, carrying off large particles of sedi-
ment which will flow out of the water inlet manifold opening. Sludge
and sediment in the engine water passages may be loosened by prodding
with a short length of welding rod or a wooden stick while the flushing
procedure is going on. When the water starts to come out clean, remove
the pressure gun from the water outlet manifold.
(5) INSTALL THERMOSTAT (par. 88).
(6) INSTALL WATER INLET MANIFOLD. Assemble the water inlet
manifold to the engine block using a new gasket, and fasten in place
with cap screws and lock washers which were removed. Coat the inside
of the water inlet manifold hose with white lead, then connect the hose
to the water inlet manifold and tighten the clamp screw.
e. Thawing Out Radiator. If the liquid in the cooling system
should become frozen, it will be necessary to thaw out the radiator
before the vehicle can be operated. The best method of accomplishing
this is to tow the vehicle into a warm garage and let it thaw out gradu-
ally. If this is not possible, cover the radiator and hood with a blanket
and let the engine idle until the blanket steams. Then shut the engine
off, let it stand for a few minutes, and repeat the operation as often as it
is necessary to get the water circulating. Do not use boiling water to
thaw out a frozen radiator.
. Cooling System Hose. Rubber hose in the cooling system must
be kept tight in order to prevent the loss of cooling liquid, and to keep
the pump from sucking air into the system which would cause the forma-
tion of rust and scale. Check all hose periodically and keep the hose
clamps tight. When new pieces of hose are installed, always coat the
inner surface of the hose under the clamp with white lead to insure a
tight seal. Rubber hose deteriorates in normal service, and must be
replaced when it becomes soft and starts to swell.
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COOLING SYSTEM
85. RADIATOR.
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE THE HOOD ASSEMBLY (par. 185).
( 2) DRAIN WATER FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM ( par. 84 ).
( 3 ) DISCONNECT INLET FITTING. Remove the cap screws and lock
washers holding the radiator inlet fitting to the top tank, and then swing
the inlet fitting and hose assembly, which is attached to the radiator stay
rod, clear of the radiator, and remove the attaching gasket.
RA PD 303707
Figure 69Removing Radiator
(4) DISCONNECT RADIATOR OUTLET FITTING. Remove the cap-
screws and lock washers holding the radiator outlet fitting to the bottom
tank, then swing the outlet fitting and hose assembly clear of the radia-
tor and remove the attaching gasket.
(5) REMOVE RADIATOR MOUNTING BOLTS. Remove the cotter
pins from the radiator mounting bolt nuts, and remove the bolts, nuts
and upper insulators.
(6 ) REMOVE THE RADIATOR FROM THE CHASSIS. Tip the radiator
assembly forward to clear the fan blades, then work it out of the chassis,
being careful not to damage the tubes or the blades on the fan (fig. 69).
After it is removed, take off the lower radiator mounting insulators.
b. Cleaning. Clean the air passages between the tubes to remove
dirt or insects which might plug the openings. If the radiator tubes are
clogged up with scale or sediment, they may be cleaned by pressure
flushing through the filler neck opening.
734619 0-47-12
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TM 9-811
85
Figure 70Adjusting Fan Belt Tension
c. Installation.
(1) REPLACE LOWER INSULATORS. Install the large radiator
mounting insulators over the mounting holes on the frame rails.
(2 ) INSTALL RADIATOR. Lift the radiator assembly into place and
work it into position, being careful not to injure the radiator core or the
fan blade.
(3) INSTALL RADIATOR MOUNTING PARTS. Run the radiator
mounting bolts through the frame rails from the under sides, and up
through the lower insulators and the holes in the radiator mounting legs.
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COOLING SYSTEM
Then replace the upper insulators, the plain washers and the castle nuts
on the ends of the bolts. Tighten nuts with torque wrench to 10-12 foot-
pounds tension, then install cotter pins through the slots in the nuts.
(4) CONNECT RADIATOR OUTLET FITTING. Install a new gasket
between the radiator lower tank and the radiator outlet fitting, and
RA PD 304982
Figure 71Fan Belt Deflection
attach this part to the radiator, using the cap screws and lock washers
which were removed.
(5) CONNECT RADIATOR INLET FITTING. Install the radiator inlet
fitting against the radiator top tank, using a new gasket, and attach in
place with cap screws and lock washers which were removed.
( 6) ADD WATER TO COOLING SYSTEM (par. 84 ).
(7) INSTALL HOOD ASSEMBLIES (par. 185).
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86
86. FAN.
a. Adjustment.
(1) LOOSEN THE FAN SPINDLE AND CLAMP NUT. Back off the
clamp nut between the front of the engine and the fan mounting bracket
(fig. 72 ). Loosen up the spindle in the slot.
(2) ADJUST FAN. Back off the fan hub adjusting screw lock nut.
Turn the adjusting screw to obtain the proper tension on the fan belt
Figure 72Tightening Fan Spindle Clamp Nut
(fig. 70 ). The belts should be tight enough so that they will deflect about
one inch (fig. 71).
(3) Hold the adjusting screw and tighten the adjusting screw lock
nut.
(4) Tighten the fan spindle clamp nut between the front of the
engine and the fan mounting bracket (fig. 72 ). Check adjustment again.
b. Removal.
(1) LOOSEN THE FAN SPINDLE CLAMP NUT. Loosen the clamping
nut on the fan spindle between the front of the engine and the fan
mounting bracket.
(2 ) Back off the adjusting screw lock nut.
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Figure 73Removing Fan Assembly
( 3 ) Slacken the fan belt by loosening the adjusting screw.
(4 ) REMOVE THE FAN BELT. Slip the fan belts off the pulleys, and
then work them off around the fan blades.
(5) REMOVE THE FAN MOUNTING BRACKET SCREWS. Remove the
fan mounting bracket screws, nuts and lock washers. It will be neces-
sary to use an offset screwdriver to remove the slotted screw.
(6) REMOVE FAN ASSEMBLY. As the fan assembly is removed, it
will be necessary to swing vhe bracket up towards the right side of the
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86-87
engine, and to pull it back so the hub protrudes over the cylinder head
with the bottom of the bracket pointing slightly towards the. rear of the
vehicle so that the fan blades will clear the shrouds (fig. 73). Fan may
be removed in this way without forcing, which might injure the radiator
core or the fan blades.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL THE FAN ASSEMBLY. Install the fan assembly into
place on the engine, using the same angle by which it was removed to
work it past the edges of the shroud (fig. 73).
(2) INSTALL THE BRACKET SCREWS. Install the bracket screws,
nuts and lock washers. It will be necessary to use an offset screwdriver
to tighten the slotted screw.
(3) INSTALL FAN BELTS. Install the fan belts over the fan blades
and then work them into position in the grooves of the pulleys.
(4) ADJUST BELTS. Tighten the fan hub adjusting screw and
adjust belt tension as described in paragraph 86.
(5 ) Tighten the adjusting screw jam nut
(6) Tighten the fan spindle clamp nut between the front of the
engine and the fan mounting bracket.
87. WATER PUMP.
a. Removal.
(1) DRAIN WATER FROM COOLING SYSTEM. See paragraph 84.
(2) DISCONNECT WATER LINE TO AIR COMPRESSOR. Disconnect
the copper tubing running between the water pump and the air com-
pressor at the water pump.
(3) DISCONNECT INLET FITTING AT THE PUMP. Remove the cap
screws and lock washers attaching the inlet fitting to the water pump,
and swing the fitting and hose assembly clear of the pump. Remove the
attaching gasket.
(4) DISCONNECT WATER PUMP OUTLET HOSE. Loosen the hose
clamp at the lower end of the hose between the water pump and the
water inlet manifold on the engine.
(5) DISCONNECT CHAIN. Remove the lock clip from the coupling
pin and connecting link and remove the coupling link from the cha:n.
Then unwrap the chain from the sprocket (fig. 74).
(6) REMOVE WATER PUMP. Remove the cap screws and lock
washers holding the water pump to the engine, and remove the pump.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL WATER PUMP. Check it to see that the mounting
dowels are in position on the engine block and then install the water
pump assembly into position, lining it up on the dowels. Install cap
screws and lock washers.
( 2 ) CONNECT CHAIN. Wrap the coupling chain around the sprocket,
install connecting link into position, and install the connecting link lock.
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COOLING SYSTEM
(3 ) INSTALL WATER PUMP OUTLET HOSE.
Coat the inside of the
water pump outlet hose under the clamp yvith white lead, then install
the hose over the outlet opening on the water pump and tighten the
clamps securely.
(4) CONNECT INLET FITTING. Install the inlet fitting against the
lower side of the pump, using a new gasket, and attach in place with cap
screws and lock washers which were removed.
Figure 74Removing Coupling Chain
( 5 ) CONNECT AIR COMPRESSOR WATER LINE. Connect the copper
tubing running between the water pump and the air compressor to the
tapped hole in the water pump body.
(6) FILL COOLING SYSTEM WITH WATER (par. 84).
88. THERMOSTAT,
a. Removal.
(1) DRAIN WATER FROM COOLING SYSTEM (par. 84).
(2) DISCONNECT WATER OUTLET FITTING. Remove the cap
screws and lock washers holding the water outlet fitting to the thermo-
stat housing, and swing the fitting and hose assembly clear of the ther-
mostat housing. Remove gasket.
183
TM 9-811
88
(3) DISCONNECT BYPASS HOSE. Loosen the hose clamp in the
bypass line connected to the thermostat housing, and disconnect the
hose from the housing outlet.
( 4) REMOVE THERMOSTAT HOUSING. Remove the cap screws and
lock washers holding the thermostat housing to the water outlet mani-
fold and remove the housing and gasket (fig. 75).
( 5 ) REMOVE THERMOSTAT. Remove the thermostat from .its seat
in the water outlet manifold.
Figure 75Removing Thermostat Housing
b. Test. The thermostat may be tested to see that it is functioning
properly by immersion in a bucket of hot water. It should be fully open
at a temperature of 185 = F, and should be closed at 157F.
e. Installation.
(1) Install the thermostat into its seat in the water outlet manifold
with the bellows facing down.
(2) INSTALL THERMOSTAT HOUSING. Assemble the thermostat
housing over the thermostat using a new gasket. NOTE: Be sure that
the water outlet fitting flange faces towards the front of the engine.
Install the cap screws and lock washers.
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COOLING SYSTEM
(3) CONNECT BYPASS HOSE TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING. Coat the
inside of the bypass hose with white lead, install the hose on the ther-
mostat housing outlet, and tighten the clamps securely.
( 4 ) CONNECT WATER OUTLET FITTING TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING.
Install a new gasket over the water outlet fitting flange on the thermo-
stat housing, install the water outlet fitting into position, and fasten in
place with cap screws and lock washers.
(5) Add water to cooling system (par.-84).
185
s?
01
89
186
tel HI
Si i SHI
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
89-90
Section XX
IGNITION SYSTEM
Paragraph
Ignition timing 90
Distributor 91
Coil and spark plugs 92
a. Description (fig. 76). The ignition system is made up of the
ignition switch, distributor, coil, condenser and spark plugs. There are
two distinct circuits in the ignition system, namely, the primary and
secondary circuits. With the ignition switch turned on and the distrib-
utor breaker points closed, the current will flow through the primary
winding of the ignition coil, building up a strong magnetic field. Each
time the breaker points open, this magnetic field collapses and a high
voltage is induced in the secondary winding. This high voltage current
is distributed to the spark plugs at the proper firing intervals by the
distributor cap and rotor.
b. Tabulated Data.
(1) DISTRIBUTOR.
Make ::. Auto-Lite
Model IGC4701
Rotation Right hand (as viewed from the top) ,
Cylinders . 6
Control Semiautomatic
(2) CONDENSER.
Make Auto-Lite
Capacity 0.20-0.25 mfd
(3) COIL.
Make Auto-Lite
Model IG 4090
(4) SPARKPLUGS.
Make Champion
Model J 10 Com.
Type 14 mm
Number used 6
Setting 0.027
9O. IGNITION TIMING.
a. General. Before timing the ignition, wipe the distributor cap
thoroughly with a clean rag both inside and outside. Clean out the
plug wells at the top of the distributor cap and clean the connectors on
the ends of the distributor cap wires. Remove the rotor and clean it
thoroughly with a clean cloth. Adjust breaker points (par. 91 c). Lubri-
cate the distributor (par. 24).
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b. Timing.
(1) LINE UP FLYWHEEL TIMING MARK. There is a timing hole
located on the front face of the bell housing slightly above center and
directly behind the fuel pump on the left side of the engine. Crank the
engine slowly until the mark on the flywheel is lined up with the center
of the timing hole. It will be necessary to use a mirror between the fuel
purrip and the bell housing in order to see this mark.
(2) Loosen the clamp bolt under the distributor arm and remove
the distributor cap.
(3 ) CONNECT TIMING LIGHT. Connect a conventional timing light
in series with the primary circuit. This lamp will light when the dis-
tributor contacts are closed and will not light when they are open.
(4) RETARD THE SPARK. Pull the spark plug button on the dash
all the way out.
(5) TIME DISTRIBUTOR. Back off the distributor slowly, turning
it counterclockwise. Stop the instant the light goes out, and clamp the
assembly in position.
(6) INSTALL THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP. Install the distributor cap,
and remove the test lamp from the primary circuit.
91. DISTRIBUTOR.
a. Description. The distributor is made up of a housing and cap.
The governor, breaker points, condenser and rotor are assembled in the
housing. The governor provides an automatic advance with increase in
distributor speed. The breaker points open and close the primary cir-
cuit, inducing the high voltage in the secondary windings. The con-
denser absorbs the initial surge of current as the primary circuit is
broken, and thus prevents excessive arcing across the breaker points.
The rotor receives the high-voltage current in the secondary circuit,
and delivers it to the proper spark plug wire located in the distributor
cap.
b. Installation of Distributor Points.
(1) REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR CAP. Loosen distributor cap clips and
lift the cap assembly from the housing.
(2) REMOVE THE SPRING CLIP SCREW. Remove the screw, nut
and lock washer holding the breaker arm spring to the breaker plate.
(3 ) REMOVE BREAKER ARM. Insert the tip of a screwdriver under
the breaker arm pivot, and lift it up and off the pivot pin.
(4) REMOVE BREAKER STATIONARY POINT. Remove the screw
holding the stationary point to the breaker plate, and lift out the sta-
tionary contact.
(5 ) INSTALL NEW STATIONARY CONTACT. Install a new stationary
contact into position, attaching it to the breaker plate with the screw
which was removed. Be sure that the elongated slot in the contact point
base is over the eccentric screw in the breaker plate.
(6) INSTALL BREAKER ARM. Slide the breaker arm into position
over the pivot pin with the spring tensed behind the lip on the breaker
plate. Then install screw, nut and lock washer through the lip and
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IGNITION SYSTEM
spring. Be sure that the condenser lead is connected under the breaker
arm spring screw.
(7) INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR CAP. Install the distributor cap and
attach in place with the clips. Then adjust distributor points, and check
timing.
Figure 77Adjusting Breaker Point Gap to 0.020 inches
c. Adjust Distributor Points.
(1) REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR CAP. Open the clips and remove the
distributor cap from the housing.
( 2 ) REMOVE ROTOR. Pull the rotor from the end of the distributor
shaft.
(3) POSITION BREAKER ARM ON CAM. Turn distributor so that
the breaker arm leg rests on the high point of the cam. Crank the engine
189
TM 9-811
91
until it stops with the contact points wide open, as is the'case when the
breaker arm leg rests on the high point of the cam.
(4) ADJUST POINT GAP. Loosen the lock screw holding the sta-
tionary point to the breaker plate. Use a 0.020 wire feeler gage between
the breaker arm point and the stationary point, and turn the eccentric
adjusting screws until the proper gap is obtained (fig. 77). Tighten the
lock screw holding the stationary point to the breaker plate. Install rotor
and replace distributor cap.
'
'
Figure 78Loosening Distributor Housing Clamp
d. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT SPARK CONTROL. Loosen the set screw in the
spark control wire and disconnect the wire.
(2 ) DISCONNECT PRIMARY WIRE TO THE DISTRIBUTOR. Disconnect
the wire in the primary circuit between the coil and the distributor at
the distributor.
( 3 ) DISCONNECT SECONDARY WIRE AND SPARK PLUG WIRES FROM
DISTRIBUTOR CAP. Pull the high-tension and spark plug wires out of the
distributor cap.
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IGNITION SYSTEM
(4) DISCONNECT DISTRIBUTOR BOND STRAP. Remove the screw,
toothed lock washer, lock washer and nut holding the braided bond
strap to the distributor control arm, and swing the bond assembly out
of the way.
(5 ) REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR. Back off the distributor housing clamp
screw and lift the distributor assembly out of the tachometer adapter
(fig. 78).
e. Installation.
(1) INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR IN TACHOMETER ADAPTER. Insert the
distributor into the tachometer adapter, lining-up the coupling on the
end of the distributor shaft with the socket in the adapter. When the
assembly is properly seated, tighten the distributor housing clamp
screw.
(2 ) CONNECT THE BOND STRAP BETWEEN THE ENGINE BLOCK AND
THE DISTRIBUTOR CONTROL ARM. Attach the braided bond strap to
the control arm, using the screw, toothed lock washer, lock washer and
nut which were removed.
(3) SET No. 1 PISTON ON TOP DEAD CENTER ON COMPRESSION.
Piston No. 1 and piston No. 6 will reach top dead center at the same
time, so that it will be necessary to determine when No. 1 is on com-
pression. This is done by removing a spark plug and holding the thumb
over the spark plug opening while the engine is being cranked. When
pressure builds up under the thumb, the No. 1 piston is coming up on
compression. Then turn the engine over just far enough to line up the
timing mark on the flywheel with the opening on the left side of the
bell housing, remove distributor cap and note direction rotor is pointing
as this will indicate the position of the No. 1 spark plug wire.
(4) CONNECT SPARK PLUG WIRE. Mark the distributor cap oppo-
site the contact point on the rotor arm and connect the No. 1 spark
plug wire in the connector well by this mark. Then connect the remain-
ing spark plug wires in the distributor cap, working in a clockwise direc-
tion, and following the firing order which is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Replace dis-
tributor cap.
(5) CONNECT SPARK CONTROL WIRE. Insert the end of the spark
control wire into position on the distributor control arm, twist the dis-
tributor assembly as far as possible in a counterclockwise direction, and
push the spark control button flush with the dash before tightening the
spark control wire clamp screw.
92. COIL AND SPARK PLUGS,
a. Coil.
(1) DESCRIPTION. The ignition coil has induction windings for
the primary and secondary circuits of the ignition system. Its function is
to build up the high potential which causes the spark to jump across the
points of the spark plug.
(2) COIL SPARK TEST. If there is no spark at plugs, disconnect
the high-tension wire from the center of the distributor. With the dis-
tributor cover removed and the ignition switch turned "ON," crank the
engine until the breaker points are closed. Hold the primary circuit
191
TM 9-811
92
wire so that the terminal is about Vi inch from the cylinder head, and
with the finger quickly separate the breaker points and allow them to
snap back. Repeat this several times. Each time the points open a sub-
stantial spark should be produced between the high-tension wire ter-
minal and the cylinder head.
(3) REMOVAL.
(a) Disconnect Wires from Coil. Disconnect the two primary leads
and secondary lead from the coil.
(b) Remove the Coil. Remove the cylinder head cap screw which
holds the coil attaching bracket to the cylinder head, and remove the
coil and bracket assembly. The coil may be removed from the bracket
by loosening the bracket clamping screw.
(4) INSTALLATION.
(a) Assemble Coil in Bracket. Position coil in the bracket clamp
and tighten the clamping screw securely.
(b) Install Coil and Bracket Assembly on the Engine. Lift the coil
and bracket assembly into place, and attach the bracket to the rear
cylinder head with the cylinder head cap screw which was removed.
(c) Connect Coil Wires. Connect the two primary leads and the
secondary lead to the coil.
b. Spark Plugs.
(1) REMOVAL. Disconnect suppressor on the end of each spark
plug wire from the spark plug terminals. Use the spark plug wrench fur-
nished in the vehicle tool kit, and remove the spark plug and spark plug
gasket.
(2) INSPECTION. Examine spark plugs for cracked insulators,
burned points, tflowby, excessive carbon or excessive spacing of gap.
Defective spark plugs must be replaced.
(3 ) SETTING POINTS. Use a wire feeler gage to measure the point
gap. If it is too large or too small, it must be reset at 0.027 inch. Bend the
side electrode (never bend center electrode) to secure the proper gap.
(4) INSTALLATION. Thread the plugs into the opening in the cyl-
inder heads, using a new gasket under each plug. Tighten plugs with a
spark plug wrench, being careful the wrench does not slip off and crack
insulator. Install the suppressor on the end of each spark plug wire over
the terminal on each spark plug.
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Section XXI
GENERATING SYSTEM
Paragraph
Generator 94
Generator regulator 95
a. Description. The generating system is made up of the gener-
ator, generator regulator, generator filterette, ammeters, batteries and
wires as indicated in figure 79. The function of the system is to maintain
batteries in a fully charged condition.
b. Tabulated Data.
(1) GENERATOR.
Make . . . . Auto-Lite
Model GEW 4802
Rotation Clockwise at the drive end
Volts '6
Ground polarity Positive
Poles 2
Brushes 2
(2) GENERATOR REGULATOR.
Make Auto-Lite
Type VRY 4201A
Volts 6
Ground polarity Positive
94. GENERATOR.
a. Description. The generator is a gear-driven, air-cooled unit.
b. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLES. Loosen the clamp screws in
the battery cables on the negative battery terminals, and pull the cables
clear of the battery.
(2) DISCONNECT GENERATOR BOND STRAP. Remove the cap
screw, nut, lock washer, and toothed lock washer holding the generator
bond strap to the generator frame, and disconnect the bond strap.
(3) DISCONNECT GENERATOR WIRES. Disconnect the wires run-
ning between the voltage regulator and the generator at the generator.
(4) REMOVE GENERATOR PILOT BOLT. Back off the lock nut from
the generator mounting pilot bolt, and then remove the bolt from the
generator mounting hole on top of gear cover at drive end of generator.
(5) REMOVE THE GENERATOR. Crawl under the vehicle and slide
the generator back until it is completely out of the pilot hole and back
of the gear cover, and then lower the unit until it is clear of chassis.
c. Replacement.
(1) INSTALL GENERATOR. Install the generator into position un-
derneath the vehicle and insert the mounting sleeve on the end of the
734619 0-47-13 1 93
0)
94
194
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TM 9-811
94-95
GENERATING SYSTEM
generator housing through the pilot hole in back of the gear cover. Slide
it forward into position, engaging the generator drive gear with the idler
gear, and the governor drive gear with the driven gear (fig. 80).
(2) INSTALL GENERATOR MOUNTING PILOT BOLT. Thread the
generator mounting bolt into the threaded hole on top of the generator
mounting hole and tighten bolt securely, being sure that the tapered
portion on the end is properly seated in the hole in the generator
mounting sleeve. When this bolt is properly tightened, run lock nut
down against the post on top of the casting to keep the mounting secure.
Figure 80Installing Generator
(3) CONNECT GENERATOR WIRES. Connect the wires running be-
tween the generator and the regulator to the generator (fig. 79).
(4) CONNECT GENERATOR BOND STRAP. Swing the bond strap into
position on the chassis frame and fasten it in place with the bolt, nut,
lock washer and toothed lock washer which were removed.
( 5 ) CONNECT BATTERY CABLES. Connect the battery cables to the
negative post of the batteries and tighten cable clamps.
95. GENERATOR REGULATOR.
a. Description. The generator regulator is the vibrating type
which has three units which perform a distinct and independent func-
tion. The circuit breaker operates to open and close the circuit between
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95
the generator and regulator, as the generator voltage rises above or
falls below that of the .battery. The current limiting regulator controls
the maximum output of the generator. The generator regulator is used
to hold the system voltage between close limits under the operating
conditions of the system's capacity.
b. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLES. Loosen the clamp screws and
disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of the batteries.
Figure 81Removing Regulator Mounting Nuts
(2) DISCONNECT GENERATOR TO REGULATOR WIRING HARNESS.
Disconnect the wiring harness between the generator and regulator at
the regulator.
(3) DISCONNECT THE COPPER STRAP ATTACHED TO THE REGULA-
TOR BATTERY TERMINAL. Remove the screw and lock washer holding
the strap to the regulator terminal and swing the strap out of the way.
(4) DISCONNECT CONTROL WIRE BOND STRAP FROM THE REGU-
LATOR. Remove the screw, lock washer, plain washer and toothed lock
washer holding the control cable bond strap to the regulator, and swing
the strap out of the way.
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GENERATING SYSTEM
(5) REMOVE REGULATOR MOUNTING NUTS. Remove the nuts,
lock washers and toothed lock washers holding the regulator mounting
legs to the cowl panel (fig. 81).
(6) REMOVE THE REGULATOR ASSEMBLY. Pull the regulator as-
sembly from the mounting bolts, and remove the assembly from the
engine compartment.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL REGULATOR. Install regulator into position over the
mounting bolts extending through the cowl panel, and fasten in place
with the nuts, lock washers and toothed lock washers which were re-
moved.
(2) CONNECT THROTTLE AND CHOKE WIRE BOND STRAP. Swing
the throttle and choke wire control bond strap into position against the
regulator leg, and attach in place with the screw, lock washer, plain
washer and toothed lock washer which were removed.
(3) CONNECT THE COPPER STRAP TO THE REGULATOR BATTERY
TERMINAL. Install the copper strap into position against the regulator
battery terminal and install the screw and lock washer which were
removed.
(4 ) CONNECT GENERATOR TO REGULATOR WIRING HARNESS. Con-
nect the wiring harness between the generator and regulator to the
regulator terminals. See figure 79.
(5) CONNECT BATTERY CABLES. Connect battery cables to the
negative terminals of the batteries and tighten cable clamp screw.
197
in
96
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TM 9-811
96-97
Section XXII
STARTING SYSTEM
Paragraph
Cranking motor 97
Solenoid switch 98
Series parallel switch 99
a. Description. The starting system is made up of the' cranking
motor, solenoid switch, series parallel switch, batteries, and the wiring,
as indicated in figure 82. The function of the system is to turn the engine
over for starting and it operates only while the starting button is de-
pressed.
b. Tabulated Data.
(1) CRANKING MOTOR.
Make Auto-Lite
Model ML 4209
Rotation Clockwise at drive end
Volts 12
97. CRANKING MOTOR.
a. Description. The cranking motor is a 12-volt unit which is
energized by two 6-volt batteries which are connected in series in the
starting circuit. The cranking motor is the direct-drive type which
engages with the flywheel gear through a conventional Bendix drive.
b. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLES. Loosen the clamp screws on
the ends of the battery cables running to the negative terminals of the
batteries and disconnect the cables. Disconnect the wires running to the
solenoid switch at the solenoid switch. Remove the nut and lock washer
holding the battery cable to the terminal post and disconnect cable
from the cranking motor.
(2) REMOVE CRANKING MOTOR ASSEMBLY. Remove the cap
screws and lock washers holding the cranking motor assembly to the
bell housing and then work the assembly forward until the pinion hous-
ing clears the bell housing. Then lower the unit until it is clear of chassis
obstructions. After the cranking motor is removed, remove the cranking
motor adapter from the bell housing attaching studs.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL ADAPTER. Install the cranking motor adapter over
the mounting studs on the bell housing.
(2) INSTALL CRANKING MOTOR. Lift the cranking motor in posi-
tion in front of the bell housing and slide it back through the bell hous-
ing opening so that the holes in the mounting flange go over the mount-
ing studs in the bell housing (fig. 83). Be sure that the open side of
the pinion housing faces toward the flywheel ring gear. Then install
the nuts and lock washers which were removed.
199
TM 9-811
97-98
(3) CONNECT BATTERY CABLES AND WIRES TO CRANKING MOTOR.
Connect all wires running to the cranking motor (fig. 82). Connect
the battery cables to the negative terminals of the batteries and tighten
the cable clamp screws.
98. SOLENOID SWITCH.
a. Description. The solenoid switch is an electromagnetic switch
which closes the starting circuit and operates whenever the series
parallel switch opens or closes.
Figure 83-Installing Cranking Motor
b. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT WIRES. Loosen the clamp screw in the battery
cables connected to the negative terminals of the battery and discon-
nect the cables. Disconnect the wires and battery cables running to
the solenoid switch.
(2) DISCONNECT BATTERY TERMINAL CONNECTOR BAR FROM
SOLENOID SWITCH. Remove the nut and lock washer holding the bat-
tery cable connector bar running between the solenoid switch and the
cranking motor, and disconnect this connector from the solenoid.
(3) REMOVE SOLENOID SWITCH. Remove the screws and lock
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STARTING SYSTEM
washers holding the solenoid switch to the cranking motor and remove
the switch.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL SOLENOID SWITCH ON CRANKING MOTOR. Place the
solenoid switch on top of the cranking motor and fasten it in place
with the screws and lock washers which were removed.
(2) CONNECT BATTERY CABLE CONNECTOR TO THE SOLENOID
SWITCH. Slide the end of the copper bar over the end of the battery
303749
Figure 84Removing Series Parallel Switch Bracket Cap Screws
cable terminal and the solenoid switch, and fasten in place with the
nut and lock washer which were removed.
(3) CONNECT WIRES. Connect the battery cables and wires to
the solenoid switch (fig. 82). Install the battery cables over the ends
of the negative terminals on the battery and tighten the clamping
screws.
99. SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH.
a. Description. The series parallel switch is a manually operated
switch which connects the battery in series, providing a 12-volt starting
201
TM 9-811
99
system whenever the switch is closed. This switch also energizes the
solenoid switch, causing the 12-volt current to be delivered to the crank-
ing motor.
b. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT WIRES. Loosen the clamp screws in the battery
cables fastened to the negative battery terminals, and disconnect the
cables. Disconnect all wires running to the circuit breakers mounted
on the series parallel switch bracket. Disconnect series parallel switch
wires.
(2) REMOVE SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH. Remove the cap screws
and lock washers holding the series parallel switch bracket to the trans-
mission cover, and remove the series parallel switch and bracket as-
sembly (fig. 84).
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH. Attach the series parallel
switch and bracket assembly to the transmission cover, using the cap
(2) CONNECT WIRES (fig. 82). Connect all wires and cables to
the series parallel switch. Connect the wires which were disconnected
from the circuit breakers. Install battery cables over the ends of the
negative battery terminals and tighten the clamp screws.
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100-101
Section XXIII
BATTERIES AND LIGHTING SYSTEM
Paragraph
Tabulated data !100
Batteries . 101
Lighting system and horns . 102
100. TABULATED DATA.
a. Battery.
- Make Exide
Model XH-194
Number of cells 3
Volts 6
Capacity 152 amp hours
Full charge specific gravity at 80F 1.280
Number of batteries used 2
Over-all dimensions:
Length 12s/s in.
Width 7Vs in.
Height 9Yw in.
b. Lights.
Headlights:
Type Sealed beam
Number DT-DX5707
Lamps:
Headlight (sealed beam unit925086)
Upper beam. 45 watts
Lower beam 35 watts
Service taillights (Mazda No. 63) 3 cp
Service taillights (Mazda No. 1158) 21 cp
Instrument lamps (Mazda No. 55) 3 watts
Beam indicator lamp (Mazda No. 51) 1 cp
Blackout lamps (Mazda No. 63) 3 cp
Wrecker spot light (Mazda No. 1183) 50 cp
101. BATTERIES.
a. Description. These vehicles are equipped with two 6-volt
batteries which are connected in a series parallel circuit. They operate
in a 6-volt circuit for charging, lights, ignition, etc. They function in
series for a 12-volt circuit during cranking motor operation (fig. 85 ).
b. Adding Water. When adding water, add a sufficient amount
to come to about % inch above the tops of the separators, that is, to
the bottom of the cover well. These batteries have covers and vent
plugs which act to limit amount of water added. Excess water added
rises in filling tube or well only. Do not remove or injure the lead ring.
CAUTION: Take care when adding water with a syringe not to push
the lead ring off its seat. Two batteries of the same serviceable condi-
tion should require about the same amount of water when connected
203
.X
at
204
101
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
101
in parallel. If this is not the case, check to see that electrical connec-
tions are clean and tight.
c. Hydrometer Readings (fig. 86).
(1) To take a hydrometer reading, insert the nozzle of the hydrom-
eter syringe in the electrolyte, squeeze the bulb and slowly release it,
drawing up enough electrolyte to float the hydrometer freely. Holding
the syringe vertically, the reading on the stem of the hydrometer at the
surface of the electrolyte is the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Then
return the electrolyte to the same cell (fig. 86).
Figure 86Hydrometer Test
(2) The specific gravity for full charge should be 1.270 to 1.285.
Readings above 1.225 are all right but whenever a reading is lower
than that, the battery mustxbe removed for a bench charge.
(3) Specific gravity readings must be corrected for the tempera-
ture of the electrolyte in the battery at the time of testing. If such cor-
rection is not made, the specific gravity reading is misleading as a meas-
ure of the condition of charge of the battery. The correction per 10F of
temperature variation is approximately 0.004 in specific gravity. The
following table indicates the correction that must be made for various
temperatures:
205
TM 9-811
101
Tcmpirarure
of Electrolyte Specific Gravity Correction
+ 110CF Add 12 points to hydrometer reading
-j-100F Add 8 points to hydrometer reading
-f- 90 CF Add 4 points to hydrometer reading
+ 80 F No correction required
+ 70 F Subtract 5 points from hydrometer reading
-j- 60 CF Subtract 8 points from hydrometer reading
-f- 50CF Subtract 12 points from hydrometer reading
+ 40 CF Subtract 16 points from hydrometer reading
-f- 30 F Subtract 20 points from hydrometer reading
-j- 20F Subtract 24 points from hydrometer reading
-j- 10F Subtract 28 points from hydrometer reading
0F Subtract 32 points from hydrometer reading
- 10F Subtract 36 points from hydrometer reading
- 20 F Subtract 40 points from hydrometer reading
(4) Do not take hydrometer readings immediately after adding
water. Allow a day or so for the water to mix with the electrolyte,
otherwise the reading is false. If the battery is on charge and gassing,
the water will be mixed within an hour.
( 5.) Do not use the same cell each time to take the gravity readings.
Change around to the various cells. This recommendation is made to
avoid lowering the gravity of one cell due to possible loss of a small
amount of electrolyte in taking gravity readings. Using all cells spreads
the possible loss over all cells, rather than have the loss taken by one
cell.
d. Corrosion. If any corrosion takes place, it must be scraped
or brushed off. The battery should then be washed with, or immersed
in, a baking soda solution. (Proportionsone pound of soda to a gallon
of water.) Be sure that the vent plugs are tight in place. After the
acid has been neutralized, rinse, dry, and cover with a light film of petro-
latum.
e. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLES. Loosen the clamp screws on
the ends of all battery cables, spread the connector clamps and dis-
connect the cables from the batteries. Swing the cables clear to permit
removal of the batteries.
(2) REMOVE HOLD-DOWN COVER. Remove the two wing nuts,
lock washers and plain washers holding the hold-down cover to the
battery container screws, and lift off the cover.
(3) REMOVE BATTERIES. Install a battery lifting strap over the
terminals of one battery, and lift the battery out of the battery com-
partment. Then remove the other battery in the same manner (fig. 87).
f. Installation.
(1) INSTALL BATTERIES. Lift the batteries with a battery lifting
strap and place them in position in the battery compartment.
(2) INSTALL HOLD-DOWN COVER. Install the hold-down cover
over the battery carrier screws and slide the cover down into position
206
TM 9-811
101-102
so that it forms a shoulder around the edges of the batteries. Then
fasten the cover in place with the wing nuts, plain washers and lock
(3) CONNECT BATTERY CABLES. Connect the battery cables to
the battery terminals and tighten the clamping screws (fig. 85).
102. LIGHTING SYSTEM AND HORNS.
a. Headlights.
(1) DESCRIPTION. Two different types of headlights are supplied
RA-PD 303768 .
Figure 87Removing Batteries
with the vehicles. The majority of the vehicles (Models 968A, 969A,
970A and 972) are equipped with a conventional sealed-beam type
headlight assembly. Some of the vehicles (Model 968B and 969B)
are equipped with one hooded-type blackout headlamp. This headlight
is not the sealed-beam type.
(2) REPLACEMENT OF SEALED BEAM UNIT.
(a) Remove Headlight Guard. Remove the nuts and lock washers
holding the headlight guard to the fender, and remove the guard.
207
208
102
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TM 9-811
102
(b) Remove Headlight Rim. Remove the clamp screw at the bot-
tom of the rim assembly, and then spread the rim so that it may be
slipped off the headlight body.
(c) Remove Sealed Beam Unit. Remove the three screws attach-
ing the sealed beam unit to the headlight body, and pull the unit out
far enough so that the wires may be pulled from the connector plug.
Then remove the sealed beam unit.
(d) Install New Sealed Beam Unit. Lift the new sealed beam unit
into place, and plug in the connector. Then push the unit into place
in the headlight body and fasten it there with the screws which were
removed.
(e) Install Headlight Rim. Spread the headlight rim a sufficient
amount so that it may be installed over the front of the headlight body.
(f) Install the Rim Clamp Screw. Install the rim clamp screw and
tighten it securely.
(g) Install Headlight Guard. Install the headlight guard, replace
on the fender, and attach it there with the bolts, nuts and lock washers
which were removed.
(3) LAMP REPLACEMENT FOR BLACKOUT TYPE HEADLIGHT.
(a) Remove Blackout Mask. Remove the screw and lock washers
holding the blackout mask to the headlight body, and remove the mask,
gasket and gasket ring.
(b) Remove Lamp. Push the lamp in, and twist to the left and
remove it from the socket.
(c) Install New Lamp. Push the lamp into the socket, and twist
to the- right to lock it in place.
(d) Install Blackout Mask. Install the blackout mask, gasket and
gasket ring into place on the headlight body, and fasten it with the
(4) HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT. If a headlight tester is available,
it will provide a quick and accurate means of obtaining proper head-
light adjustment. If this is not available, a chart may be made up as
shown in fig. 88. Aim the vehicle at the chart from a distance of about
20 feet, and turn on the headlights. Loosen the support nut under the
headlight bracket, and aim the light so that the proper beam travel
is obtained on the chart (fig. 88). When the proper adjustment is
obtained, tighten the support nut.
(5) HEADLIGHT REMOVAL.
(a) Remove the Wire Retainer Clips Under Fender. Remove the
nuts and lock washers holding the wire retainer clips to the fender
bracket, and pull the headlight wiring assembly down.
(b) Disconnect Headlight Wires. Remove the tape from the ends
of the loom, and slide the loom down towards the frame rail to uncover
the connection. Then break the wires at the connection. Remove the
nut and lock washer holding the headlight ground wire to the fender
bracket.
734619 O - 47 - 14 209
TM 9-811
102
(c) Remove Headlight. Remove the nut and lock washer holding
the headlight pivot ball nut to the headlight bracket, and remove the
headlight assembly (fig. 89).
(6) HEADLIGHT INSTALLATION.
(a) Install the Headlight Assembly. Install the headlight assembly
into position on the headlight bracket, with the pivot ball bolt and the
headlight wires extending through the hole in the bracket. Then at-
tach the headlight in place with the nut and lock washer which were
removed.
Figure 89Removing Headlight Mounting Unit
(b) Connect Headlight Wires. Attach the headlight ground wire
to the fender bracket with the nut and lock washer which were re-
moved. Then connect the front headlight wires according to the color
scheme shown in the wiring diagram (fig. 85). Slide the loom up over
the connection and tape the loom at each end.
(c) Install Headlight Wire Clips. Work the headlight wiring har-
ness into position along the fender bracket, and attach there with the
clips, nuts and lock washers which were removed.
(d) Adjust Headlight. Adjust the headlight as described in para-
graph 100 a (4).
210
TM 9-811
102
1>. Blackout Driving Light.
(1) DESCRIPTION. The blackout driving light is a small sealed
beam type headlight with a blackout mask over the lens. It is mounted
on the left fender beside the regular headlight.
(2) SEALED BEAM UNIT REPLACEMENT.
(a) Remove Blackout Light Rim. Remove the retaining screw at
the bottom of the blackout mask rim, and then swing the rim and mask
assembly out, pushing at the top far enough to disconnect the hooked
hinge at the top of the rim.
(b) Remove Sealed Beam Unit and Blackout Mask Assembly.
Pull the plug from the wire connector in back of the sealed beam unit
and remove the sealed beam unit and mask assembly.
(c) Remove Sealed Beam Unit from Mask. Using a small screw-
driver, release the spring clips holding the sealed beam unit in the
blackout mask rim and remove the sealed beam unit.
(d) Install New Sealed Beam Unit. Install new sealed beam unit
into position on the mask and rim assembly, and fasten in place with
the spring clips in the rim.
(e) Install Sealed Beam Unit and Blackout Mask Assembly. Lift
the assembly into position, and plug in the wire connector at the back
of the sealed beam unit. Hook the hinge on the rim into the slot at the
top of the lamp body, and swing the assembly into position. Install the
rim retaining screw and tighten it securely.
( 3 ) BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT REMOVAL.
(a) Remove Wire Clips. Remove the nuts and lock washers hold-
ing the wire clips to the fender bracket, remove the clips, and pull the
wire assembly down.
(b) Disconnect Wires. Remove the tape from each end of the
harness loom, and then slide the loom back on the wires to expose the
connection. Disconnect blackout driving light wire.
(c) Remove Blackout Driving Light Assembly. Remove black-
out light body mounting bolt, nut and lock washer from the bracket
and lift the assembly from the bracket, pulling the wire through the
hole in the fender (fig. 90).
(4) BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT INSTALLATION.
(a) Install Blackout Driving Light. Install the blackout driving
light on the blackout driving light bracket with the bolt running through
the pivot ball on the bracket and attach in place with the nut and lock
washer which were removed. Run the wire through the hole in the
fender, using a new fender grommet if the one in place is not in satis-
factory condition.
(b) Connect Wires. Connect blackout driving light wires and slide
the loom up to cover the connection. Tape both ends of the loom
(fig. 85).
(c) Install Headlight Harness. Push the headlight harness into
position along the fender bracket and replace the clips, nuts and lock
(d) Adjust Blackout Driving Light.
211
TM 9-811
, 102
c. Blackout Marker Light.
(1) DESCRIPTION. A blackout marker light is mounted on each
fender beside the headlight. The door shield makes its dim glow vis-
ible in only a very limited plane.
(2) LAMP REPLACEMENT.
Figure 90Removing Blackout Driving Light
(a) Remove Door. Remove the retainer screw at the bottom of
the blackout marker door, and remove the door from the body.
(b) Remove Lamp. Push the lamp in, twist to the left and remove
it from the socket.
212
TM 9-811
102
BATTERIES AND LIGHTING SYfTEM
(c) Install New Lamp. Push the new lamp into the socket, and
twist to the right to lock it in place.
(d) Install Door. Insert the door into position over the ends of
the body, engaging the hinge pin at the top. Then install the retainer
screw at the bottom and tighten it securely.
(3) BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT REMOVAL.
(a) Remove Headlight Harness Clips. Remove the nuts and lock
washers holding the headlight harness clips in place, remove the clips,
and pull the wires down.
Figure 91Removing Blackout Marker Lighf Nut
(b) Disconnect Blackout Marker Light Wires. Remove the tape
from each end of the loom, and slide the loom down to expose the wire
connections. Disconnect blackout marker light wires.
(c) Remove Blackout Marker Light (fig. 91). Remove the nut
and toothed lock washer holding the blackout marker light to the
fender, and remove the light from the fender.
(4) BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT INSTALLATION.
(a) Install the Blackout Marker Light. Install the blackout marker
light into place on the fender engaging the bead on the back end of the
marker light bracket in the hole in the fender. Then fasten it in place
with the nut and toothed lock washer which were removed.
213
TM 9-811
102
(b) Connect Blackout Marker Light Wires. Connect the blackout
marker light wires, and slide the loom up to cover the connection
(fig. 85). Tape both ends of the loom.
(c) Install Clips. Push the headlight wire harness into place along
the fender bracket, install the clips, and fasten them in place with the
nuts and lock washers which were removed.
d. Stop and Taillights.
(1) DESCRIPTION. Most of the vehicles (Models 968A, 969A,
970A and 972 ) are equipped with two different stop and taillight as-
semblies. The right-hand stop and taillight contains a blackout tail-
light unit and blackout stop light unit. The left-hand stop and taillight
unit contains a conventional taillight unit and a blackout stop light unit.
Some of the vehicles (Model 968B and 969B) are equipped with two
stop and taillight assemblies which are identical. Both of these as-
semblies contain a blackout tail lamp unit and a blackout stop lamp
unit.
(2) TAIL LAMP AND STOP LAMP UNIT REPLACEMENT.
(a) Remove Cover. Remove the screws holding the cover to the
stop and tail lamp body and remove the cover.
(b) Remove Bumed-out Unit. Remove the burned-out unit by
pulling it from the socket.
(c) Install New Stop and Tail Lamp Unit. Install new stop and tail
lamp unit by pushing it into the socket.
(d) Replace Cover. Install the cover into place on the stop and
taillight body and attach in place with the screws which were removed.
(3) REMOVAL.
(a) Disconnect Stop and Taillight Wires. Pull the wires from the
socket and connectors in back of the stop and taillight assemblies. Re-
move the nut and lock washer holding the stop and taillight ground
wire to the taillight mounting screw, and disconnect the wire.
(b) Remove Stop and Taillight Assembly. Remove nuts, screws
and lock washers holding the taillight assembly to the taillight bracket
and remove the assembly from the chassis.
(4) INSTALLATION.
(a) Install Stop and Taillight Assembly. Replace the stop and
taillight assembly into position on the bracket and attach in place with
the nuts and lock washers which were removed.
(b) Connect Stop and Taillight Wires. Install the stop and taillight
ground wires over the inner attaching screw and fasten it in place with
the nut and lock washer which were removed. Then connect the other
wires in their respective sockets in back of the stop and taillight as-
sembly.
e. Switches.
(1) DESCRIPTION. The main fight switch is mounted on the in-
strument board which controls the headlights and stop lights (fig. 92).
There is also a blackout driving light switch on the instrument board
which controls the blackout driving light. A switch is mounted on the
214
TM 9-811
102
instrument board for controlling the instrument panel lights. These
switches are all the conventional push-and-pull type, with the excep-
tion of the main light switch. This has a special latch plunger which
prevents the operator from accidentally turning on the bright lights.
There is a dimmer switch on the toeboard to switch the driving lights
from high to low beam.
(2) REMOVAL.
(a) Remove Light Switches. The light switches may be removed
by loosening the set screw in the puller knob, removing the knob, re-
moving the dash nut and then pulling the switch out in back of the
dash. (It is also necessary to remove the clamp bolt on the main light
switch.) The switch bodies may then be removed after disconnecting
the wires.
HEAD AND TAIL LIGHTS
BLACKOUT STOP LIGHTS
SERVICE STOP LIGHTS
BLACKOUT HEAD AND
TAIL LIGHTS
AUXILIARY FEED
BHT
STOP LIGHT SWITCH-*
TRAILER TAIL LIGHT
FEED TO STOP LIGHT SWITCH-
Figure 92Main Light Switch
RA PD 304971
(b) Remove Dimmer Switch. The dimmer switch may be removed
by removing the toeboard, disconnecting the wires and removing the
screws and lock washers holding it in place (fig. 159) It may then be
removed from the under side of the cowl toeboard ledge.
(3) INSTALLATION.
(a) Installing Light Switches. When replacing the switches, raise
them into position in back of the dash board and connect the wires to
the proper terminals, as indicated in the wiring diagram (fig. 85). Then
insert the plunger rods through the openings in the dash and install
the dash lock nuts. Install the blackout latch and clamp bolt on the
main light switch. Then replace the knobs over the plunger rods, and
tighten the set screws.
(b) Installing Dimmer Switch. Lift the dimmer switch into place
through the opening in the bottom of the toeboard ledge on the cowl,
and attach in place with the screws and lock washers which were re-
moved.'Connect wires as shown in figure 85 and replace the toeboard.
215
TM 9-811
102
f. Horns.
(1) DESCRIPTION. Twin horns are mounted on the cowl panel
inside the engine compartment which are controlled by a conventional-
type horn button located in the center of the steering wheel.
(2) HORN BUTTON.
(a) Removal. Twist the horn button far enough to permit the
holding ears to clear the clamping legs on the base plates. Then lift
the horn button carefully so as not to lose {he small parts as the button
is removed. The contact cup, contact cup spring and pilot may be re-
moved with the button. Then remove the screws holding the base plate
Figure 93Removing Dimmer Switch
in the steering wheel recess. Lift out the horn wire bushing, horn wire
bushing cup and horn wire bushing spring and base plate as an as-
sembly. Untape the horn wire connection at the bottom of the steering
column and disconnect the wires, then pull the entire assembly out
through the top of the steering wheel.
(b) Installation. Assemble the horn wire bushing, horn wire bush-
ing cup, horn wire bushing spring and horn wire through the base plate,
and pull the wire through the steering column with a fishing wire.
Fasten the base plate to the steering wheel using the screws which were
216
TM 9-811
102 ^
removed. Install the contact cup, contact cup spring and pilot. Push
the horn button over these parts and twist it far enough so that the
holding ears are engaged behind the clamping legs of the base plate,
then connect the horn wire at the bottom of the steering wheel and
tape the connection.
( 3 ) HORN ASSEMBLY.
(a) Removal. Disconnect the wires to the horn, then remove the
nuts, screws and lock washers holding the horn assembly to the bracket,
and remove the horn.
Figure 94Removing Circuit Breaker
(b) Installation. Install the horn assembly into position on the
bracket and attach in place with the screws, nuts and lock washers
which were removed. Connect horn wires to the horn (fig. 85).
(4) HORN RELAY.
{a) Removal. Disconnect the three wires from the relay termi-
nals, then remove the screws, nuts, and lock washers holding the relay
to the cowl. Remove the horn relay.
(b) Installation. Install the horn relay into position on the cowl
and fasten in place with the screws, nuts, and lock washers which were
removed. Connect the wires to the horn relay terminals (fig. 85).
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TM 9-811
102
g. Circuit Breakers.
(1) GENERAL. Circuit breakers are provided in the fuel gage (5
amps), horn relay (30 amps), series parallel switch (40 amps), and
cranking motor (40 amps) circuits on all 4-ton 6x6 vehicles. In addi-
tion a circuit breaker is used in the spotlight (40 amps) circuit on
wrecker trucks. These are located on the series parallel switch bracket,
and on the steering post bracket under the dash.
(2 ) REMOVAL. Disconnect the wires from the circuit breakers, and
remove the screws holding them in place. Then remove the circuit
breakers (fig. 94).
(3) INSTALLATION. Attach circuit breakers in position using the
screws and lock washers which were removed, and connect the wires
to the breaker terminals (fig. 85).
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TM 9-811
103-104
Section XXIV
TRANSMISSION
Paragraph
1 Description and tabulated data 103
Removal 104
Installation 105
a. Description. The transmission is a five-speed overdrive type
with a single reverse speed, and an extra gear in the countershaft for
driving and power take-off. It is conventional in design with power
transmitted from the main drive geaf through the countershaft to the
mainshaft. The main drive gear is driven by the engine whenever the
clutch is engaged. This gear is in constant mesh with the countershaft
drive gear, hence the countershaft rotates when the main drive gear is
turning. With the shifting lever in neutral, the main shaft gears will
not turn the main shaft, but when the lever is shifted to the various
positions, as indicated on the shifting diagram (figs. 18, 19 and 20), the
various main shaft gears are engaged with the countershaft gears for
power transmission (fig. 95).
b. Tabulated Data.
Model 326-VO-21
Type 5-speed overdrive
Weight 380 Ib
Torque rating 375 ft-lb
Gear ratiosc
Reverse 7.08 to 1
First 7.08 to 1
Second 3.82 to 1
Third 1.85 to 1
Direct 1.00 to 1
Overdrive 0.768 to 1
Lubricant capacity 12 quarts (With P.T.O.)
104. REMOVAL.
a. Disconnect Batteries. Loosen the cable clamp screw, and dis-
connect the cables from the negative terminals of the batteries.
b. Drain Air Tanks (par. 123).
c. Drain Oil. Remove the drain plug from the transmission and
the lower cap screw from the power take-off rear bearing cap, and let
oil drain from transmission and power take-off.
d. Remove Floorboards. Remove the screws and lock washers
holding the floorboards in. position and remove floorboards from the
cab. It will be necessary to disconnect the accelerator rod when re-
moving toeboard.
e. Remove Brake Rod. Remove the cotter pins and clevis pins
from the yokes of the brake rod running between the pedal and the
brake valve and remove the rod.
219
TM 9-811
104
SHIFT LEVER KNOB
CLUTCH HOUSING
POWER TAKE-OFF
RACKET
RA PD 304994
Figure 95Transmission Assembly
220
TM 9-811
104
TRANSMISSION
f. Disconnect Pull-back Spring. Disconnect the brake and clutch
pedal pull-back springs from the brake valve.
g. Disconnect Clutch Shaft Support Bracket. Remove the cap
screws and lock washers holding the clutch shaft support bracket to
the left rear engine mounting.
h. Remove Quick Release Valve Assembly. Disconnect the air
lines to the quick release valve, and then remove the cap screws and
lock washers holding the quick release valve bracket to the top of the
transmission cover and power take-off.
i. Remove Series Parallel Switch. Disconnect all wires from the
series parallel switch, and from the circuit breakers mounted on the
series parallel switch bracket. Then remove the cap screws and lock
washers attaching the series parallel switch bracket to the transmission,
and remove the assembly.
j. Remove Front Running Board Cross Member. Remove the
bolts, nuts and lock washers attaching the front running board cross
members to the support legs, and remove the cross member.
k. Disconnect Front Axle Propeller Shaft. Remove the cap
screws, nuts and lock washers from the companion flanges at the trans-
fer case end of the propeller shaft between the front axle and the
transfer case. After it is disconnected, the propeller shaft assembly
may be lowered to the ground and swung out of the way, so as not to
interfere with further operations.
1. Remove Transmission Output Propeller Shaft. Remove the
cap screws, nuts and lock washers between the companion flanges of
the propeller shaft running between the transmission and the transfer,
and remove the shaft assembly from the vehicle.
m. Remove Power Take-off Drive Shaft. Loosen the socket
head set screw in the collar in back of the winch drive shaft slip joint,
and slip the collar to the rear of the spline. Remove the cotter pin
and shear pin from the front universal joint yoke, then slide the slip
joint back on the splines to disconnect drive shaft at the front. Then
loosen the socket head set screw in the universal yoke at the power
take-off, and drive the yoke and shaft assembly forward until it is
free of the power take-off output shaft. Remove the power take-off
drive shaft from the vehicle.
n. Disconnect Power Take-off Shift RodT Remove the cotter
pin and clevis pin from the power take-off shift rod, and swing the rod
and yoke assembly out of the way.
o. Remove Power Take-off Shifting Rod Cross Shaft. Remove
the cotter pins, cap screws and nuts holding the cross shaft bracket on
the right side of the vehicle, then remove the bracket and slip the
cross shaft out of its pivot on the left frame rail.
p. Remove Battery Wire Clamp. Remove the cap screw and lock
washer holding the battery wire clamp to the transmission rear bear-
ing cover, and swing the wire and clamp clear of the transmission.
q. Disconnect Brake Rod Air Lines. Disconnect the air lines
running between the brake valve and the reservoir tank and between
221
TM 9-811
104
the right front trailer connection and the brake valve at the brake
valve.
r. Remove Exhaust Assembly. Remove the bolts, washers and
special nuts holding the exhaust tube flange at the exhaust manifold
flange. Then remove nuts and lock washers from the front muffler
Figure 96Removing Transmission
brace U-bolt, and remove the U-bolt. Remove the cap screws, nuts
and lock washers holding the tail pipe clamp to the frame rail. Then
work the exhaust assembly back and out of the vehicle.
B. Remove Transmission Cover. Remove cap screws and lock
222
TM 9-811
104-105
TRANSMISSION
washers holding the transmission cover to the transmission case, and
remove the cover assembly.
t. Support Transmission Using a Hoist. Wrap a chain around
the transmission assembly, fasten the chain to a hook on the end of
a hoist or wrecker boom and lift until the hook just starts to take the
weight of the transmission (fig. 96).
u. Remove Transmission. Remove the cap screws and lock
washers holding the transmission to the flywheel housing. Remove
clutch pedal. Pull the transmission assembly back out of the trans-
mission housing, and tilt the assembly towards the right side of the
vehicle far enough to permit removal of the clutch pedal. Work the
transmission assembly free from the chassis and lower it to the ground.
Cover the opening in the transmission with a clean rag to prevent dirt
and dust from getting into the gears and bearings.
105. INSTALLATION.
a. Raise Transmission into Position. With the transmission in
place under the vehicle, loop a chain around it and attach to the hook
on the end of a hoist or wrecker boom cable, and raise transmission
into position. After the transmission is raised high enough, it will be
necessary to work it forward so that the main drive gear shaft passes
through the center of the clutch assembly to engage the splines in the
driven disk. It may be necessary to rock the transmission assembly to
engage the shaft splines with the splines on the disk. Before the as-
sembly is completely lined up, it should be twisted to the right to per-
mit the installation of the clutch pedal which was removed when the
transmission was taken out.
b. Hold Transmission in Place. When the transmission assembly
is properly located on the engine bell housing, it may be fastened in
place with the cap screws and lock washers which were removed.
c. Install Transmission Cover. Remove the rags which were in-
serted into the transmission case to keep dust and dirt from the gears.
Shift the gears to neutral, and then assemble the control cover into
position with a new gasket between the cover and case. Then install
the cap screws and lock washers which were removed.
d. Install the Exhaust Assembly. Work the exhaust assembly
into position in the chassis, and tighten the manifold flange bolt, the
front muffler nut U-bolt, and the tailpipe clamp in place (par. 82).
e. Connect Air Lines. Connect the air lines between the brake
valve and the reservoir tank and between the right front trailer coup-
ling and the brake valve to the brake valve.
f. Install Battery Cable Clamp. Install the battery cable clamp
over the cable, and attach the clamp under one of the cap screws on
the transmission rear bearing cover.
g. Install Power Take-off Shift Rod Cross Shaft. Working from
the right side of the chassis, work the end of the cross shaft into the
support bearing under the left frame rail, then hold the shaft in posi-
tion while installing the bearing cap bracket under the right frame
rail and installing bolts, nuts and cotter pins which were removed.
223
TM 9-811
105
h. Connect Shift Rod to Power Take-off Shift Rail. Lift the
power take-off shift rod into position with the yoke over the eye on
the end of the power take-off shift rail, and insert the clevis pin
through yoke and eye. Then lock the clevis pin in place with the
cotter pin.
i. Install Winch Drive Shaft. Install the winch drive shaft into
position in the chassis with slip joint towards the front. Then drive
the universal joint yoke over the end of the power take-off output
shaft, being careful to see that the keyway in the shaft lines up with
the keyway in the yoke, then drive the key into position to lock the
yoke to the shaft. Tighten the socket head set screw in the yoke at the
power take-off shaft. Slide the slip joint as far back as possible on the
splines, and install the front universal joint yoke over the winch worm
shaft, being careful to line up the hole in the end of the winch drive
shaft with the hole in the yoke hub. Insert one of the special winch
shear pins through the yoke and the worm shaft and fasten in place
with a cotter pin. Slide slip joint collar forward on the splineway to
give about s/i-inch clearance between the end of the slip joint sleeve and
the forward edge of the collar. Then tighten socket head set screw
in the collar.
j. Install Transmission Propeller Shaft. Lift the propeller shaft
into position between the transmission and the transfer case, assemble
the cap screws, nuts and lock washers through the holes in the edge
of the companion flanges and fasten them securely together.
k. Install Front Axle Propeller Shaft. Connect front axle pro-
peller shaft flange and front axle propeller shaft into place, and install
cap screws, nuts, and lock washers to hold the flange yoke securely to
the companion flange on the transfer case.
1. Install the Front Running Board Cross Member. Raise the
front running board cross member into position in the cross member
leg, and attach in place with cap screws, nuts and lock washers which
were removed.
m. Install the Quick Release Valve and Bracket Assembly on
the Transmission. Install the quick release valve and bracket assem-
bly into place on the transmission and attach in place with two cap
screws and lock washers holding the transmission cover to the case, and
two cap screws and lock washers holding the power take-off cover to
the power take-off case. Then connect air lines to the quick release
valve.
n. Install the Series Parallel Switch and Bracket Assembly.
Attach the series parallel switch and bracket assembly to the trans-
mission cover with the transmission cover cap screws and lock washers.
Then connect all wires to the series parallel switch and to the circuit
breakers (fig. 82).
o. Install the Clutch Shaft Support Bracket. Install the clutch
shaft support bracket into place on the left rear engine mounting
bracket, and fasten in place with the bolts which were removed.
224
TM 9-811
105
TRANSMISSION
p. Connect Pedal Pull-back Spring. Connect the pull-back
springs to the brake and clutch pedals, and hook the ends over the ears
on the brake valves.
q. Install Brake Roil. Install the brake rod into place with the
yoke ends over the pivot holes on the brake pedal and the operating
lever on the brake valve, and insert clevis pins into position on each
end. Fasten these pins with cotter pins.
r. Install Floorboards. Connect accelerator rod and then place
the floorboards into position. Fasten them in place with the screws
which were removed.
8. Connect Battery Cable. Reconnect the battery cables which
were disconnected before the job was started.
t. Check to See that Reservoir Drain Valves are Closed.
u. Add Lubricant (par. 26).
734618 O - 47 - 15 225
TM 9-811
106
Section XXV
TRANSFER
Paragraph
Transfer description 106
Transfer breather 107
Transfer removal 108
Transfer installation 109
106. TRANSFER DESCRIPTION.
a. The transfer is a gear box mounted behind the transmission
which delivers power to the front and rear axles, and which is offset to
permit the forward propeller shaft to clear the engine crankcase. A
COMPANION FLANGE
.BREATHER
TRUNNION
SUPPORT
TUBE
DECLUTCH CARRIER
COMPANION FLANGE
RA PD 304993
Figure 97Transfer Assembly/ without Power Take-off
226
TM 9-811
106-107
TRANSFER
speed reduction is provided, the selection of which is controlled by a
conventional shift lever in the cab. The unit has two speedsdirect
and overdrive. A declutch unit is mounted at the lower end of the
case facing towards the front axle which consists of a jaw-type clutch
supported in a carrier. The engagement or disengagement of the front
axle is accomplished by means of this mechanism which is controlled
through linkage by a shift lever in the cab. On wrecker and dump
trucks the transfer is equipped with a power take-off mounted at the
end of the drive shaft which is used to drive the winches on the wrecker
and the pump on the dump truck (fig. 97).
'
107.
Figure 98Removing Transfer Breather
TRANSFER BREATHER.
a. Description. There is a baffle-type breather mounted on top
of the transfer case which permits the unit to breathe, thereby pre-
venting the build-up of pressure from lubricant vapors and heat de-
veloped in operation which might cause damage to oil seals. This
breather must be kept clean in order to function properly.
b. Cleaning.
(1) Clean the exterior surfaces of the breather cover and the top
of the transfer case around the cover with dry-cleaning solvent.
(2) REMOVE BREATHER PARTS. Remove the cap screws and lock
washers holding the breather cover to the transfer case, then lift the
breather cover, breather plate, and gaskets from the transfer case. The
227
TM 9-811
107
transfer case shift rail poppet ball and spring are held under the cup
on the end of the breather cover, and care must be exercised when re-
moving the cover to prevent the loss of the poppet parts (fig. 98).
(3) CLEANING BREATHER. Immerse the breather cover and the
breather plate in dry-cleaning solvent, and scrub until thoroughly clean.
Be sure that all the holes in the cover and the plate are clear. After
these parts are clean, dry them thoroughly with compressed air.
POWER TAKE-OFF
'CONTROL LEVER
TRANSFER
CASE
DECLUTCH
CARRIER
RA PD 313770
Figure 99Transfer Shift Linkage
(4) INSTALL BREATHER. Check to see that the poppet parts are
in place before installing the breather. Then install a new gasket over
the breather opening at the top of the transfer case. Then place the
breather plate over the gasket with the breather holes towards the
right side of the case. Place another new gasket over the breather plate,
then install the breather plate cover. It will be necessary to force the
breather cover down against the compression of the poppet spring
while the cap screws and lock washers are installed. Be sure that the
breather holes in the breather plate are on the opposite side of the
breather holes in the breather cover.
228
TM 9-811
108
TRANSFER
108. TRANSFER REMOVAL.
a. Drain Oil. Remove the drain plug, and drain the oil from the
transfer.
b. Disconnect Front Axle Propeller Shaft. Remove the cap
screws and lock washers holding the front axle propeller shaft universal
flange yoke to the transfer drive shaft companion flange, and separate
the flange yoke from the companion flange, swinging the propeller
shaft assembly clear.
c. Remove Propeller Shaft Between Transmission and Trans-
fer Case. Remove the cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding the
Figure 100Lifting Transfer on Hoist
flange yokes on the propeller shaft between transmission and transfer
case to the companion flanges on the transmission main shaft and the
transfer case drive shaft. Then remove propeller shaft assembly.
d. Remove Exhaust Tube, Muffler and Tailpipe. Disconnect
exhaust flange, front muffler U-bolt and tailpipe clamp, and remove
exhaust assembly as described in paragraph 82.
e. Remove the Running Board Rear Cross Member. Remove
the bolts, nuts and lock washers holding the running board rear cross
member in place and remove the cotter pins, nuts, washers and springs
from the gas tank straps. Remove the cross member.
229
TM 9-811
108
f. Disconnect Speedometer Cable. Thread the speedometer
adapter bushing out of the speedometer gear opening in the transfer
case idler shaft bearing cap, and swing cable clear.
g. Disconnect Shift Cable to the Transfer Case. Remove the
cotter pin and clevis pin from the shift cable yoke at the end of the
transfer case shift rail.
RA-PD 3039071
Figure 101Disconnecting Transfer Front Mounting
h. Disconnect Transfer Case Declutching Linkage. Remove
cotter pin and clevis pin from the upper end of the idler lever which
is attached to the declutch shift rail, and swing the shift rod out of
the way (fig. 99).
TM 9-811
108-109
TRANSFER
i. Position Hoisting Chain. Remove the cap screw holding the
hand brake cable clip to the transfer case, and swing the cable and clip
out of the way. Wrap a chain around the idler shaft rear bearing cap
and the main shaft front companion flange. Attach this chain to a hook
on the hoist, and lift a sufficient amount to cause a slight strain to per-
mit of the removal of the mounting brackets (fig. 100).
j. Remove Front Mounting Bracket Caps. Remove the cotter
pins, nuts, and bolts holding the cross shaft caps to the brackets, then
remove the caps (fig. 101).
, Figure 102Tightening Rear Mounting Bolts
k. Disconnect Transfer Case Rear Mounting. Remove the cot-
ter pins, nuts and trunnion bolts from the idler shaft rear bearing cap
mounting bracket.
1. Lower Transfer to Floor. Lower transfer assembly and work
it forward to permit the rear support bracket to clear the frame cross
member, then lower it until it rests on the floor.
109. TRANSFER INSTALLATION.
a. Lift Transfer Case into Position on Vehicle. Place transfer
into position under chassis, and wrap a chain around it as described for
removal. Attach the chain to a hook on the hoist and raise the assembly
231
TM 9-811
109
into position working it back as it comes up to permit the rear trunnion
support bracket to slide over the top of the frame cross member.
b. Install Rear Mounting Bolts. Install rear mounting bolts hold-
ing the transfer in place and then install the cotter pins and nuts (fig.
102).
c. Install Caps on Front Mounting Brackets. See that the cross
tube is socketed in the cross shaft mounting brackets, then install the
caps in position and attach with the bolts, nuts and cotter pins.
d. Remove the Chain from the Transfer Assembly.
e. Connect Hand Brake Cable Clip to the Transfer Case. Swing
the hand brake cable into position and attach the mounting clip to the
transfer case with the cap screw which was removed.
I. Connect Declutch Shift Linkage. Swing the yoke on the end
of the declutch shift rod into position through the hole on the end of
the declutch idler lever which is attached to the declutch shift rail.
Then install the clevis pin through the holes in the yoke and the hole
in the idler lever and fasten in place with a cotter pin.
g. Connect Transfer Case Shift Linkage. Swing the yoke on
the end of the transfer case shift cable into position over the hole in the
end of the transfer case shift rail, and install the clevis pin which was
removed. Then lock the clevis pin in place with the cotter pin.
h. Connect Speedometer Cable. Insert the end of the speedom-
eter cable into the speedometer opening on the transfer case idler
shaft bearing cap and thread the adapter bushing into the cap to hold
it in place.
i. Install Running Board Rear Cross Member. Lift the running
board rear cross member into position and install the bolts, nuts and
lock washers which were removed. It will be necessary to replace the
mounting parts on the end of the gas tank straps as these were removed
to permit removal of the cross member. Each strap should have a
spring, a flat washer and nut, and a cotter pin.
j. Install Exhaust Tube Manifold and Tail Pipe. Install the
exhaust assembly into position on the chassis and then attach the
exhaust flange, the front muffler U-bolt and the tail pipe clamp as de-
k. Install Propeller Shaft between Transmission and Transfer
Case. Lift the propeller shaft assembly into position between the trans-
mission and transfer case and attach the universal joint and flange yokes
to the companion flanges on the transmission and transfer case, using
the cap screws and lock washers which were removed.
1. Connect Front Axle Propeller Shaft. Swing front axle pro-
peller shaft into position so that the universal joint flange yoke is up
against the companion flange on the transfer case, and then attach these
parts together with the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were
removed.
m. Lubricate Transfer (par. 26).
232
TM 9-811
110-111
Section XXVI
PROPELLER SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Paragraph
Description 110
Removal Ill
Installation 112
110. DESCRIPTION.
a. Propeller shafts are used between the transmission and trans-
fer, the transfer and the front axle, the transfer and the forward rear
axle, the forward rear axle and the rear rear axle, the transmission power
take-off and the front mounted winch used on cargo, wrecker and pon-
ton trucks, and the transfer power take-off and the hoist pump used
on the dump trucks. These shafts are all of the companion -flange type
with the exception of (1) the shaft between the rear axles, which is
the end-yoke type, and which must be disassembled for removal; and
(2) the shaft which drives the hoist pump on the dump truck, and
which also drives the front-mounted winch on the cargo, wrecker and
ponton trucks, which are special in design. The winch drive propeller
- shaft is of the end-yoke type, but the joint does not have to be dis-
assembled for removal, as the universal joint yoke hubs may be dis-
connected from the driving and driven shafts of the units. The hoist
pump drive propeller shaft is of the end-yoke type on the rear end,
and of the companion flange type on the forward end. The propeller
shafts are all tubular in design with the exception of the shaft running
between the transmission and the transfer, and between the transmis-
sion power take-off and the front-mounted winch. The universal joints
are all of the Hooke's coupling type with the trunnion supported on
needle roller bearings. A splined slip joint is provided at one end of
each propeller shaft to allow for spring action and variations in the
distances between the units which they connect (fig. 103).
b. The shafts are rather delicately balanced, and must always be
assembled with the parts in exactly the same relation to each other
as before disassembly. To make this possible, an arrow is stamped on
the spline end of the propeller shaft, and on the spline sleeve of the
slip joint, so that these markings may be matched to maintain the
original balanced condition of the shaft. It will be noted that when
the arrows are lined up, the yokes on each end of the shaft will lie in
the same plane, and that the flange yokes on each end of the propeller
shaft also lie in the same plane.
111. REMOVAL.
a. Companion Flange Mounted Shafts.
(1) DISCONNECT SLIP JOINT COMPANION FLANGE. Remove the
cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding the flange yoke at the slip
joint end of the propeller shaft to the companion flange on the driving
unit. Then lower the end of the shaft until it rests on the ground, or a
convenient cross member under the body.
233
TM 9-811
111
(2 ) DISCONNECT REMAINING COMPANION FLANGE. Remove the
cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding the flange yoke at the far
end of the shaft to the companion flange of the driven unit. The shaft
assembly may then be lowered to the ground or worked clear of cross
member to permit its removal.
b. End Yoke Shaft Between Rear Axles.
(1) REMOVE THE COVER PLATES FROM THE SLIP JOINT YOKE.
Use a small punch to fold the ears of the lock plate away from the cap
screw heads to permit removal of the cap screws holding the covers on
each end of the slip joint yoke. Then remove the cap screws and take
off the lock plates and the covers.
TRANSFER DRIVEN SHAFT
COMPANION
FLANGE
INTERAXLE PROPELLER
SHAFT
TRANSMISSION MAINSHAFT
COMPANION FLANGE
MAINSHAFT
COMPANION
FLANGE
TRANSMISSION TO TRANSFER
PROPELLER SHAFT
FRONT AXLE
COMPANION FLANGE
TRANSFER TO FRONT
AXLE PROPELLER SHAFT
TRANSFER TO FORWARD
REAR AXLE PROPELLER
SHAFT
TRANSFER DECLUTCH SHAFT COMPANION FLANGE
Figure 103Propeller Shaft Assemblies
RA PD 304848
(2) DISCONNECT SLIP JOINT END OF SHAFT. Tap on the exposed
face of one of the needle bearing cages until the opposite needle bearing
assembly comes out. Remove the needle bearing cage from the end of
the trunnion yoke, and then tap the exposed end of the trunnion until
the bearing on the opposite end is free, and remove the bearing. With
both bearings removed from the yoke, permit the shaft to drop down a
sufficient amount so that the lower end of the journal will clear the
lower end of the yoke. Then tip the journal assembly so that the lower
end moves away from the yoke, then raise the shaft assembly so that the
yoke is entirely clear of the journal. The slip joint end of the shaft may
then be lowered to the ground.
(3 ) REMOVE COVER PLATES FROM END YOKE. Remove the cover
plates from both sides of the end yoke on the other end of the propeller
234
TM 9-811
111
shaft in the same manner in which they were removed from the slip
joint yoke.
(4) DISCONNECT END YOKE FROM JOURNAL. Disconnect the end
yoke of the propeller shaft from the universal joint journal in the
same manner in which the slip joint yoke was disconnected.
c. Propeller Shaft between Transmission Power Take-off and
Front Mounted Winch.
(1) REMOVE SHEAR PIN. Remove the cotter pin from the end of
the shear pin at the forward end of the winch drive propeller shaft, and
then knock out the pin, using a hammer and drift punch.
(2) LOOSEN STOP COLLAR ON SLIP JOINT SPLINES. Using a Va-
in, socket head set screw wrench, loosen the set screw in the stop collar
on the slip joint splines and then slide the collar back as far as it will go.
Figure 104Disconnecting Yoke From Hoist Pump Shaft
(3) DISCONNECT SLIP JOINT END OF SHAFT. Slide the slip joint
back far enough on the shaft so that the end yoke comes off the winch
worm shaft.
(4) DISCONNECT REAR END OF THE DRIVE SHAFT. Using a Vs-in.
socket head set screw wrench, loosen the set screw holding the end
yoke to the power take-off drive shaft. Then drive the end yoke off
the power take-off drive shaft and remove the key.
TM 9-811
111
(5) REMOVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY FROM VEHICLE. Slide the shaft
assembly toward the front, pulling the rear end through the hole in
the front motor support cross member, and remove it from the vehicle.
d. Propeller Shaft between Transfer Power Take-off and Hoist
Pump.
(1) DISCONNECT COMPANION FLANGE AT SLIP JOINT END OF
SHAFT. Remove the cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding the
flange yoke at the slip joint end of the shaft to the companion flange
on the transfer power take-off drive shaft, then separate the flanges.
The shaft assembly will be supported in the hole through the frame
cross member.
Figure 105Connecting Companion Flanges
(2) DISCONNECT END YOKE FROM HOIST PUMP. Loosen the set
screw holding the end yoke to the hoist pump drive shaft. Then drive
end yoke off the end of the hoist pump shaft and remove the key
(fig. 104).
(3) REMOVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY FROM VEHICLE. Work the shaft
assembly forward through the hole in the frame cross member and
then remove the assembly from the vehicle.
TM
9-811
112
112. INSTALLATION.
a. Companion Flange Mounted Shafts.
(1) INSTALL SHAFT ASSEMBLY INTO POSITION. Raise the shaft
assembly into position in the chassis, mating the companion flanges on
the driving and driven units with the flange yokes on the end of the
propeller shaft assembly, and insert two cap screws through the holes
in the flanges to hold the assembly in place. Be sure that the slip
joint is facing the source of the power.
Figure 106Installing Needle Bearing
(2) CONNECT COMPANION FLANGES. Install the cap screws, nuts
and lock washers which were removed through the holes in the com-
panion flanges and tighten securely (fig. 105).
b. End Yoke Shaft between Rear Axles.
(1) CONNECT END YOKE OF PROPELLER SHAFT ASSEMBLY TO THE
JOURNAL. Slip the end yoke end of the propeller shaft assembly into
position, and tilt the universal joint journal at the front of the through
shaft for the rear rear axle in such a way that it may be worked into
position in the end yoke of the propeller shaft. Then install one needle
bearing cage assembly through the hole on each side of the end yoke
and over the trunnion journals (fig. 106). It will be necessary to tap
the end of the needle bearing cage lightly in order to drive it into
237
TM 9-811
112
place. When the needle bearing assemblies are in place, line up the
slot in the outer face of each with the slot on the bearing cover plate,
and install the bearing cover plate, lock plate and cap screws which
were removed. (Do not use a lock plate on which both ears have been
bent.) Tighten the cap screws securely and fold the unused ear of the
locking plate up against the side of the cap screw to hold it in place.
(2) CONNECT SLIP JOINT YOKE TO THE UNIVERSAL JOINT JOUR-
NAL. Connect the slip joint yoke to the universal joint journal in the
same manner in which the end yoke was installed (fig. 106).
Figure 107Installing Slip Joint on Winch Propeller Shaft
c. Propeller Shaft between Transmission Power Take-off and
Front Mounted Winch.
(1) INSTALL SHAFT ASSEMBLY INTO PLACE IN VEHICLE. Working
from the front, install the propeller shaft assembly into place in the
vehicle, sliding the end yoke end of the shaft through the hole in the
front motor support cross member, and back against the power take-
off drive shaft. When installing the slip joint on the splined end of
the propeller shaft, be sure to line up the shaft yokes as described in
paragraph 112 (fig. 107).
( 2 ) INSTALL UNIVERSAL YOKE TO POWER TAKE-OFF DRIVE SHAFT.
Line up the keyway in the universal joint yoke with the keyway in
the power take-off drive shaft, then drive the yoke into place over the
shaft and install the key. Tighten the set screw in the hub of the uni-
versal joint flange, using a Vs-inch socket head set screw wrench.
238
TM 9-811
112
(3) CONNECT SLIP JOINT UNIVERSAL TO WINCH WORM SHAFT.
Slide the slip joint and universal joint assembly forward on the splines
so that the universal joint yoke hub slides over end of the winch worm
shaft, then line up the hole in the yoke end with the hole in the shaft.
Install a shear pin through the yoke hub and shaft, and attach in place
with a cotter pin through the end of the shear pin.
(4) SET STOP COLLAR ON SLIP JOINT SPLINES. Slide the stop
collar forward on the slip joint splines until it is s/s inch from the rear
end of the slip joint sleeve, then fasten it in place by tightening the
set screw, using a Vs-inch socket head set screw wrench.
d. Propeller Shaft between Transfer Power Take-off and Hoist
Pump.
(1) INSTALL SHAFT ASSEMBLY INTO VEHICLE. Lift the shaft as-
sembly and work it into position in the vehicle, sliding the end yoke
end of the shaft through the hole in the frame cross member, and back
far enough so that the universal joint yoke is against the hoist pump
drive shaft.
(2) ATTACH UNIVERSAL JOINT YOKE TO HOIST PUMP SHAFT. Line
up the keyway in the hub of the universal joint yoke with the keyway
in the shaft, then drive the yoke assembly over the shafts and install
the key. Tighten the set screw.
(3) ATTACH SLIP JOINT FLANGE YOKE TO THE COMPANION
FLANGE. Line up the flange yoke on the end of the forward universal
joint with the companion flange on the power take-off drive shaft, and
attach it in place with the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were
removed.
239
TM 9-811
113
Section XXVII
FRONT AXLE
Paragraph
Tie rod replacement 114
Toe-in 115
Axle assembly removal 116
Axle assembly installation 117
a. Description. The front axle is a driving unit type, with a con-
ventional double-reduction differential bolted to the rear of the banjo
axle housing. Power is transmitted from the driven shaft of the trans-
fer through a propeller shaft to a bevel pinion gear mounted at the
rear end of the differential carrier assembly. The bevel pinion gear
BREATHER
DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER
TIE ROD _
BRAKE CHAMBER-
BRAKE DRUM
RA PD 304995
Figure 108Front Axle Assembly
meshes with a conventional ring gear which is mounted on the same
shaft with a spur pinion gear. The spur pinion provides a second gear
reduction, meshing with a large spur gear to which is bolted the differ-
ential assembly. The power is transmitted to the differential gear
through the axle shaft, then to constant-velocity type universal joints
held in trunnions bolted to the outer ends of the axle housing (fig. 108).
b. Breather. A breather is located on top of the axle housing
banjo, which permits the unit to breathe as pressure changes occur
inside the housing due to heat and lubricant vapors formed in normal
operation. The action of the breather prevents damage to the oil seals
which might happen due to this pressure, hence it must be kept clean
at all times. Check the condition of the breather frequently, and remove
it for cleaning as often as may be necessary.
240
TM 9-811
113-114
FRONT AXLE
c. Tabulated Data.
Make Timken
Type Double-reduction drive
Model F-2090-W-73
Lubricant capacity 15 pt
Toe-in Vi in. + Me in. Mo in.
Steering angle:
Inside wheel 28 max
Outside wheel 24 approx
-PD 303722
Figure 109Removing Tie Rod End Pin
114.
TIE ROD REPLACEMENT.
a. Remove Clevis Pins from Brake Chamber Push Rods on
Both Sides of Vehicle. Remove the cotter pins in the ends of the
clevis pins, then the clevis pins may be removed from the push rod
yokes.
b. Remove Brake Chambers from Both Sides of Vehicle. Turn
the adjusting worms on the slack adjusters until ends of the slack
adjusters clear the push rod yokes, and remove the brake chambers as
described in paragraph 127.
7J4fll O - 47 - 16
241
TM 9-811
114
4-TON, 6x6 TRUCKS (DIAMOND T MODELS 968A
969A WRECKER, 970A PONTON, AND 972 DUMP; r#
c. Remove Tie Rod End Pins. Remove the nuts and lock ^ ^^
from the lower ends of each of the tie rod end pins, then drive . ^
out of the tie rod end yokes. When the pins are loose, lift tf &%
(fig. 109) and remove tie rod from axle assembly. d**'//
d. Install Tie Rod. Lift the rod into position, and insta
place on tie rod bearing bosses extending from the unive>
flanges.
Figure 1 1 0 Driving in Tie Rod End Pin
e. Install Tie Rod End Pins. Drive the tie rod end pins int
using a drift punch, and tapping on the flat surface on top of
Be sure that the flat surfaces on the heads of the pins face th
pins in the top of the tie rod yokes to keep the pins from turning,
the nut and lock washer on the bottom of each end pin (fig.
f . Replace Brake Chamber. Replace brake chamber as d
in paragraph 127.
242
TM 9-811
114-115
FRONT AXLE
g. Install Slack Adjuster Clevis Pin. Turn the slack adjuster
adjusting worms back to their original setting, then install the clevis
pin through the slack adjuster arms and the brake chamber push rod
yokes, attaching them in place with cotter pins.
h. Adjust Toe-in. Adjust toe-in as described in paragraph 115.
115. TOE-IN.
a. General. Toe-in is measured as the distance that the front
wheels are closer together at the front than at the rear, or it is the
amount that the wheels are "pigeon-toed" at the front. This is easily
seen by reference to figure 111, in which toe-in is dimension "B" minus
Figure 111Toe-fn
RA PD 313806
"A". Toe-in should be checked at regular intervals and if found incorrect
should be adjusted to between Vio in. and %o in.
b. Adjustment.
(1) TURN THE WHEELS INTO THE STRAIGHT-AHEAD DRIVING
POSITION.
(2) MAKE CHALK MARKS ON CENTER OF TIRES. Jack up the front
wheels and start them spinning and then hold a pointed piece of chalk
against the center of the tire long enough so that a line will be scribed
completely around the circumference of the tire. Lower the jacks so
that the front of the vehicle is again supported on the wheels.
(3) CHECK TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT. Measure the distance indicated
as dimension "A" in figure 111 at a point directly opposite the center
of the wheel. Then measure dimension "B" at a point directly opposite
243
TM 9-811
115-116
the center of the wheel. Measurements should be made between the
chalk marks on the tires. Then subtract dimension "A" from dimension
"B" and the result will be the toe-in of the front wheels. If this is be-
tween Mo in. and :uiu in. no adjustment is necessary. If toe-in is found
to be less than M in. or more than :H(i in., it will be necessary to adjust
the toe-in as described in next step.
(4) ADJUST TOE-IN. Disconnect one end of the tie rod as described
in paragraph 114. Then loosen the clamping nuts on the tie rod yoke,
and turn the yoke end as many turns as are necessary to get the proper
toe-in. After the adjustment is made, tighten the clamping nuts and
connect the tie rod. Then check toe-in again. Repeat this procedure
as often as is necessary to secure proper toe-in.
116. AXLE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL.
a. Disconnect Oil Pan Bond Strap. Remove the nut, lock washer
and toothed lock washer holding the bond strap between the engine
oil pan and the front axle differential carrier to the differential carrier,
then disconnect the strap.
b. Disconnect Drag Link. Disconnect the drag link from the
steering arm as described in paragraph 148.
c. Release Pressure from Air Brake System. Open the drain
cocks on the air reservoir tanks to permit the escape of air in the air
brake system.
d. Disconnect Air Brake Hose. Disconnect the rubber hose
leading to the brake chambers on each side of the axle.
e. Disconnect Propeller Shaft. Remove the cap screws, nuts
and lock washers between the flange yoke and the companion flange
at the forward end of the propeller shaft running between the transfer
and the front axle. Then separate the flanges, and lower the propeller
shaft to the ground. Place a 30 in. piece of wood (2x4), or any other
convenient rod or tube of comparable length and strength, between
the axle housing and the tie rod on the right side of the carrier housing.
This wooden brace should be installed at an angle pointing down and
towards the rear of the vehicle. It is used as a wedge to prevent the
axle assembly from tipping when it is removed from the vehicle.
f. Raise the Vehicle on Jacks. Place jacks under each end of the
axle housing, and raise it so that the front tires clear the ground by
about 10 inches.
g. Remove Front Spring U-bolt. Remove the nuts and lock
washers from each of the front spring U-bolts, and pry the U-bolts off.
There is a bracket pad underneath each end of the axle housing which
may be removed as the U-bolts are taken out. This bracket is attached
to the shock absorber connecting link and need not be disconnected.
h. Block Vehicle and Lower Axle to Ground. Place blocks under
the front spring rear hanger. Check the position of the 2 x 4 to be sure
that it will keep the axle assembly from tipping. Then release the jacks
and lower the front axle until the tires touch the ground. Roll the axle
assembly forward away from the chassis.
244
TM 9-811
117
FRONT AXLE
117. AXLE ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION.
a. Line Up Axle Assembly in Front of Chassis. Roll the axle
assembly to a position in front of the vehicle so that the spring pads on
the axle housing are approximately in line with the springs, with the
carrier facing towards the vehicle.
b. Roll Axle Assembly Under Vehicle. One man, using a piece
of 2 x 4 about 4 feet long, can hold the axle assembly to prevent tip-
ping, while the others roll it into position under the vehicle. The 2x4
should be inserted between the axle housing and the tie rod on the
right side of the axle, so that the free end is pointing up and away from
the vehicle. The first man can pull down on the 2 x 4 to keep the axle
housing from tipping, while the others roll the assembly into position
under the vehicle, and line up the spring pads on the axle housing
with the springs. When the axle is in position slide the 30-inch 2x4,
used when removing the axle, between the tie rod and the axle housing
to prop it in place, and remove the 4-foot 2x4.
c. Jack Up the Vehicle. Place jacks under each side of the
bumper, and lift the vehicle so that the blocks under the spring hangers
may be removed.
d. Install Front Spring U-bolt. Lower the vehicle on the jacks
until the springs rest on the spring pads of the axle housing. It will
be necessary to jockey the axle assembly in order to line up the spring
through bolt with the hole in the middle of the spring pad. This can
be done by rolling the axle assembly back and forth, and by using a
crowbar under the tires to get a sidewise shift. When the springs are
properly seated on the spring pads, place the front spring bumpers
on top of the upper leaves, and install the four U-bolts. As the U-bolts
are installed, swing the lower axle housing pad, which is connected to
the shock absorber link, into position and run the U-bolts through
them. Then install the nuts and lock washers which were removed
from the U-bolts, and tighten these securely.
e. Lower Vehicle to the Ground. Release the jacks and remove
them from under the vehicle.
f. Connect Propeller Shaft. Swing propeller shaft into position
against the companion flange on the front axle and attach it in place
with the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were removed.
g. Connect Air Lines. Connect the air lines to the brake cham-
bers at each end of the axle assembly.
h. Connect Drag Link to the Steering Arm. Connect the drag
link to the axle steering arm as described in paragraph 148.
i. Connect Bond Strap to Differential. Connect the bond strap
running between the engine oil pan and the front axle differential car-
rier to the carrier, using the nut, lock washer and toothed lock washer
which were removed.
245
TM 9-811
118
Section XXVIII
REAR AXLES
Paragraph
Axle shaft replacement 119
Axle assembly removal 120
Axle assembly installation 121
a. Description. Tandem rear axles are used on these vehicles, both
axles being driving axles. The drive is through a conventional double-
reduction differential, which functions in exactly the same manner as
that used with the front axle, except that the differential carriers are
BRAKE DRUM DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER BRAKE CHAMBER
TORQUE ROD J^^B^ I TORQUE ROD
'BRACKET Zr^ r*j Aj BRACKET BRAKE DRUM
SPRING PLATE \AXLE
HOUSING
RA PD 304996
Figure 112Rear Axle Assembly
mounted on top of the axle housings instead of in back of them. Carriers
are of the through shaft construction, which means that the pinion
shaft passes through the carrier so that power is delivered to the rear
rear axle after passing through the through shaft of the forward rear
axle. The axles are full-floating, and the axle shaft may be removed
without raising the wheels from the ground (fig. 112).
b. Breather. A breather is located on the deck of the axle housing
near the differential carrier. It permits the unit to breathe as pressure
changes occur inside the housing due to heat and lubricant vapors
formed in normal-operation. The action of the breather prevents dam-
age to the oil seals which might happen due to this pressure, and hence
it must be kept clean at all times. Check the condition of the breather
frequently and remove it for cleaning as often as may be necessary.
c. Tabulated Data.
Make Timken Model SFD-154-W
Type Double reduction Lubricant capacity 7 Vi pt
246
TM 9-811
119
REAR AXLES
119. AXLE SHAFT REPLACEMENT.
a. Remove Axle Shaft Studs. Remove the nuts, lock washers and
toothed lock washers from the axle shaft flange studs.
b. Remove Axle Shaft. Remove the lock wire from the heads of
the puller screws, and then tighten the puller screws alternately to
pull the shaft off the studs (fig. 113). When the shaft is free, it may
be pulled out of the axle housing. As the drive flange of the axle shaft
clears the studs, three tapered dowels may be removed from the stud
holes. After shaft is removed, remove the flange gasket.
Figure 113Tightening Rear Axle Flange Puller Screws
c. Install New Axle Shaft. Install new flange gasket over studs
on the wheel hub. Slide the new axle shaft through the hub and into
the axle housing, meshing the shaft splines with the splines on the
differential side gear. Then line up the axle drive flange holes with
the studs and tap the shaft into position with a soft hammer.
d. Install Axle Flange Nuts. Place the three tapered dowels over
the studs which pass through the tapered holes in the axle shaft flange,
and push these up snugly as far as they will go. Then install a toothed
lock washer over each one of these studs and replace the flange nuts
on these studs. Tighten these nuts securely. Then install the remain-
ing nuts and lock washers, and tighten them securely.
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120. AXLE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL.
a. Rear Rear Axle.
(1) DISCONNECT AIR LINES. Open the drain valves in the reservoir
tanks and release the air pressure stored up in the braking system. Then
disconnect the flexible air hose at the tee which is mounted on top of
the rear rear axle housing.
(2) DISCONNECT UPPER TORQUE RODS. Disconnect both upper
torque rods on the rear rear axle side of the torque rod bracket at the
bracket (par. 144).
(3) REMOVE LOWER TORQUE RODS. Remove both lower torque
rods on the rear rear axle side of the torque rod bracket (par. 144).
(4) DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Disconnect the propeller
shaft between the rear rear axle and the forward rear axle at the back
end (par. 111).
(5) RAISE REAR OF VEHICLE ON JACKS. Place a 30-inch 2x4
prop between the brake camshaft and axle housing to keep the unit
from tipping. Place a jack under each end of the rear axle bogie tube,
and raise the vehicle just enough so that the springs clear the pads oa
top of the rear rear axle housing.
(6) REMOVE REAR REAR AXLE FROM VEHICLE. Roll the axle
assembly out from under the truck towards the rear.
b. Forward Rear Axle. The forward rear axle can be removed
from the vehicle in exactly the same manner as that outlined for the
rear rear axle, except that the inter-axle propeller shaft will have to
be disconnected at the forward end, the propeller shaft between the
transfer and the forward rear axle must be disconnected at the axle,
and a special procedure must be followed to get the assembly out from
under the vehicle. After the vehicle is raised on jacks placed under the
bogie tube, a cradle type jack should be rolled under the axle housing
and the axle raised far enough to permit the removal of the wheels.
After the wheels are removed, the axle assembly may be lowered and
pulled out from under the chassis.
121. AXLE ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION,
a. Rear Rear Axle.
(1) INSTALL REAR REAR AXLE INTO POSITION UNDER VEHICLE.
Roll the rear rear axle assembly into position under the vehicle and
work it forward so that the ends of the springs rest on the axle spring
pads and pass under the arms extending from the axle torque rod brack-
ets. While this operation is being performed, the axle assembly must
be held in an upright position, that is, with the carrier housing facing
up. This can be done using a 2 x 4 between the axle housing and the
brake camshaft.
(2) INSTALL LOWER TORQUE RODS. Replace the lower torque
rods between the axle torque rod brackets and the frame brackets (par.
144).
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REAR AXLES
(3) CONNECT UPPER TORQUE RODS. Connect the inner ends of
the upper torque rods to the torque rod brackets (par. 144).
(4) LOWER THE JACKS SUPPORTING THE VEHICLE UNDER THE
BOGIE TUBE. Lower the jacks supporting the vehicle under the bogie
tube permitting the weight of the vehicle to rest on the springs.
(5) CONNECT INTER-AXLE PROPELLER SHAFT. Connect the inter-
axle propeller shaft to the yoke on the rear rear axle (par. 112).
(6) CONNECT AIR LINE. Connect the air line to the tee which is
mounted on top of the rear axle housing.
b. Forward Rear Axle. The forward rear axle may be installed
in the vehicle in exactly the same manner as outlined for the rear rear
axle, except that the inter-axle propeller shaft will be connected to the
forward rear axle at the front end, the propeller shaft between the
transfer and the forward rear axle will be connected to the companion
flange on the axle, and a special procedure is necessary to work the
axle into position. With the axle assembly mounted on a cradle jack,
slide it into position under the vehicle and raise the jack high enough
to permit installation of the wheels. Then remove the jack and roll
the axle assembly into position with the ends of the springs resting on
the spring pads of the axle housing.
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122
Section XXIX
BRAKES
Paragraph
Maintenance 123
Adjustment 124
Brake shoes 125
Slack adjusters 126
Brake chambers 127
Air compressor 128
Governor 129
Brake valve 130
Hand brake valve 131
Quick release valve 132
Relay valve 133
Stop light switch 134
Low-pressure indicator, safety valve and air supply valve.... 135
Parking brake 136
a. Description.
(1) GENERAL. Two braking systems are provided on these ve-
hicles; the vehicle brakes and the parking brake.
(2) SERVICE BRAKES. The service brake system is composed of
an air compressor, air compressor governor, air reservoir, safety valve,
brake application valve, relay valve, brake chambers, quick relief
valve, stop light switch, low pressure indicator and the brake shoes
and actuating mechanisms. The brakes are internal-expanding. Cables
are provided for air brakes on a trailer (figs. 114 and 115).
(3) PARKING BRAKE. The parking brake system is controlled by
mechanical linkage and consists of a set of four shoes braking on a
soft steel disk mounted in the drive line in back of the transfer.
b. Operation (figs. 114 and 115).
(1) SERVICE BRAKES. The air compressor is driven by belts from
the engine. The air under governed maximum pressure of 105 pounds
is delivered from the air compressor to the reservoirs which are mounted
on the vehicle frame. In the event the governor should fail to limit
the pressure at 105 pounds per square inch, a safety valve is provided
which will blow off when the reservoir pressure exceeds 150 pounds.
A low-pressure indicator device is used which will sound a buzzer in
the cab whenever the pressure in the reservoirs is too low to satis-
factorily operate the brakes. The brake application valve, mounted
on the frame and connected by linkage with the brake pedal, delivers
air from the reservoirs to the brake chambers whenever the pedal is
depressed and releases the pressure in the brake chambers whenever
250
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BRAKES
the brake pedal is released. The relay valve assists the brake valve in
more quickly delivering its supply of air to the brake chambers. The
quick release valve permits the escape of air under pressure at a point
close to the brake chambers, thus speeding up brake release by short-
ening the distance the air has to travel before it escapes to the at-
mosphere.'
(2) PARKING BRAKE. The parking brake is controlled by a brake
lever located in the cab. Braking effort is transmitted from the brake
lever to the shoe through a cable and brake cross shaft linkage. When
the brakes are applied, the brake shoes close against the brake disk
to keep it from turning. This brake is a parking brake or emergency
brake and should not be used to stop the vehicle unless absolutely
necessary.
c. Tabulated Data.
(1) SERVICE BRAKES SYSTEM.
Make Bendix Westinghouse
Governed air pressure 105 Ib per sq in.
Blowout pressure 150 Ib per sq in.
Compressor capacity . 71A cu ft
Brake size 17 Vi x 4 in.
Part numbers:
Air compressor BWE-215781
Governor BWE-215639
Safety valve BWE-205105
Brake valve BWE-216231
Hand control valve BWE-215748
Front brake chamberR.H BWE-2 2 0686
Front brake chamberL.H BWE-220687
Rear brake chamber BWE-220371
Low pressure indicator BWE-215186
Low pressure indicator buzzer BWE-220835
Quick release valve BWE-205000
Relay valve BWE-217383
Stop light switch BWE-215537
Double choke valve BWE-217698
Air supply valve BWE-221192
Slack adjuster front axle BWE-220688
Slack adjuster rear axleR.H. forward and L.H. rear BWE-217919
Slack adjuster rear axleL.H. forward and R.H. rear BWE-217920
(2) PARKING BRAKE.
Make Tru-stop
Type Disk
Mounting Between companion flanges and drive line
Clearance between shoe and disk ^32 in.
123. MAINTENANCE.
a. Draining Reservoirs. Since the pressure inside the reservoirs
is considerably higher than atmospheric pressure, moisture will be con-
densed and will accumulate in the bottom of the reservoir. This water is
251
252
123
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253
123
BRAKES
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
123
harmful to the units of the air braking system. To remove this moisture,
open the drain valve located on each reservoir tank and permit air to
escape until all the moisture is blown out.
h. Leakage Test. If the braking system is to operate efficiently,
leakage in the air lines and in the various units comprising the system
Figure 116Measuring Push Rod Trave/
must be held to a minimum. When checking for leaks, the driver can
start the engine and build up air pressure in the reservoirs, then walk
around the vehicle listening for leaks with the brakes applied and with
the brakes released. If there are leaks in the system which cannot be
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BRAKES
discovered by listening, soap bubble tests may be made after the engine
has been run sufficiently long to build up a maximum of air pressure in
the reservoirs. Tests are made on the various units with the brakes
applied and the brakes released. Coat the connections and if neces-
sary, the units, with soap suds, using a clean brush. No leakage is per-
mitted at the brake chambers or the air lines running between the
brake application valve and the brake chambers. If leakage is dis-
covered at these units or in the connections on these lines, corrective
measures'must be taken immediately. On all other units of the braking
system, leakage is permissible provided it does not exceed a 3-inch
Figure 117Adjusting Slack Adjuster
bubble in three seconds. If leakage is in excess of this amount, the
defective units must be replaced.
c. Pressure Test. The pressure delivered from the reservoirs to
the brake chambers may be checked, using a test gage on the end of
the line running to the brake chambers. Release the air pressure from
the reservoirs, then disconnect one of the brake chamber lines. Attach
the test gage to the end of the line and start the engine to build up a
maximum air pressure in the reservoirs. With the brake pedal fully
applied, approximately 105 pounds per square inch of pressure should
be delivered to the test gage. If this is not the case, check for leaks
(subpar. b above), incorrect adjustment of the governor, or a de-
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123-124
fective brake valve. The test gage may be used in other parts of the
brake system to locate troubles resulting from a loss of air pressure,
and may also be used as a test on the gage mounted on the instrument
panel.
124. ADJUSTMENT.
a. General. The front brakes are different from the rear brakes
only in that the brake shoe anchor pins of the front brakes are eccen-
tric, thus providing an adjustment at the heel of the shoe. The rear
brake shoes are pivoted on straight anchor pins and hence have no
Figure 118Checking Brake Shoe Clearance
(0.010 to 0.015 inch;
adjustment at the heel. In general, the need of a brake adjustment is
indicated when the front brake push rod travel is close to or exceeds
l3/s inch, and when the rear brake push rod travel is close to or exceeds
1% inch (fig. 116).
b. Brake Adjustment.
(1) BUILD UP AIR PRESSURE. Start the engine and operate it long
enough to build up a pressure of at least 80 pounds per square inch
as indicated on the air pressure gage on the dash, and maintain this
pressure above 60 pounds per square inch during the adjustment pro-
cedure.
(2) JACK UP WHEELS. Place a jack under the axle housing on
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124
BRAKES
the side on which the brake is to be adjusted, and raise the axle so that
the tires just clear the ground.
(3) ADJUST SLACK ADJUSTER. Tighten the slack adjuster adjust-
ing worm until the brake shoes are standing tight against the brake
drum. Then back off the worm until the wheel is free to turn (fig. 117).
Check the adjustment-with the feeler gage inserted-through the inspec-
tion hole in the brake drum to see that there is 0.010-inch to 0.015-inch
clearance at the toe of each brake shoe (fig. 118).
Figure 119Removing Upper Front Brake Shoe
(4) CHECK BRAKE CHAMBER PUSH ROD TRAVEL. When the ad-
justment is complete, measure the push rod travel, holding a scale
alongside of the slack adjuster arm (fig. 116). Then apply the brakes.
If adjustment is correct, push rod travel should be around s/a inch for
the front brake chamber and around 3/4 inch for the rear brake chamber.
c. Front Brake Anchor Pin Adjustment. Brake lining wear is
always greatest at the end of the shoe, and it is seldom n%cessary to
make an adjustment at the heel. However, in the event that it is neces-
sary, the adjustment is made as follows:
(1) Release the jam nuts at the rear of the brake anchor pins.
7S419 O - 47 - 17 257
TM 9-811
124-125
(2 ) Turn the anchor pins until the eccentric provides the proper
clearance at the heel of the shoe. This clearance should be 0.015 inch.
(3) When the proper setting is obtained, tighten the jam nuts to
hold the adjustment.
125. BRAKE SHOES.
a. Description. Internal expanding-type brake shoes are used on
each wheel. The front brake shoes are conventional in construction,
and utilize a 3/s-mch moulded type lining which is riveted to them. The
Figure 120Driving Out Rear Brake Shoe Anchor Pins
rear brake shoes each have two blocks of %-inch moulded lining bolted
to them. Both front and rear brake shoes are actuated by a cam control
by the brake chambers.
b. Removal.
(1) FRONT BRAKE SHOE.
(a) Rfmove Front Wheel Assembly. Jack up the assembly and
remove the front wheel assembly as described in paragraph 138.
(b) Remove Brake Shoe Pull-back Spring. Using a brake spring
pliers, remove the pull-back spring connecting the two brake shoes.
258
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125
BRAKES
(c) Remove Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Link. Remove the cotter pin
and nut holding the anchor pin link in place. Then remove the link.
(d) Remove Brake Shoes. Slide the brake shoes from the anchor
pins (fig. 119).
(2) REAR BRAKE SHOES.
(a) Remove Rear Wheel Assembly. Jack up the axle and remove
the rear wheel assembly as described in paragraph 138.
(b) Remove Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Link. Remove the cap screw
Figure 121Installing Rear Brake Shoes
and lock washer holding the anchor pin link to the brake support plate.
Then drive the link sidewise with a hammer until it falls out.
(c) Remove Anchor Pins. Using a hammer and drift punch, drive
the two anchor pins out of the brake shoe support plate (fig. 120).
(d) Remove the Brake Shoes. Spread the brake shoes apart from
the heel end of the shoes, pivoting them on the cam while pulling against
the pressure of the retracting springs. Spread them far enough so that
the assembly may be removed. Then remove the brake shoe retracting
springs.
c. Installation.
(1) FRONT BRAKE SHOES.
(a) Install Brake Shoes on Anchor Pins. Slide the front brake
259
TM 9-811
125
shoes over the anchor pins, pushing them all the way back and resting
the cam plate on the toe end of the shoes on the cam.
(b) Install Brake Shoe Retracting Spring. Using brake spring
pliers, install the brake shoe retracting spring between the two shoes.
(c) Install Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Link. Lift the anchor pin link
into position over the stud. Then install the nut and cotter pin.
(d) Replace Wheel Assembly. Install the wheel assembly on the
vehicle as described in paragraph 138.
Figure 122Removing Front Slack Adjuster Retainer Snap Ring
(e) Adjust Brakes. Adjust the anchor pins and the slack adjuster
as outlined in paragraph 124.
(2) REAR BRAKE SHOES.
(a) Install Brake Shoes. Hook the brake shoe retracting springs
between the brake shoe assemblies and then slide the cam plates over
the cam, at the same time spreading the shoes from the heel end against
the tension of the retracting springs, and working them back into posi-
tion so that when the tension is released, the heels of the shoes will
slide into the space between the anchor pin support arms (fig. 121).
(b) Install Anchor Pins. Drive the anchor pins through the brake
260
TM 9-811
125-126
BRAKES
shoe support plate from the inner side until the anchor pin link slot com-
pletely clears the support plate arm.
(c) Install Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Link. Line up the slots in the
anchor pins to permit installation of the link and then engage the link
in the slots and drive it into position lining up the hole with the cap
screw hole in the support plate. Lock the link in place with the cap
screw and lock washer.
(d) Install the wheel assembly on the axle (par. 138).
(e) Adjust the rear brakes (par. 124).
Figure 123Removing Rear Slack Adjuster Retainer Washer
126. SLACK ADJUSTERS.
a. Description. In normal brake operations, the lining wear in-
creases the cam lever travel and the stroke of the push rod. When this
travel exceeds maximum limits, brake efficiency is reduced. For this
reason slack adjusters are provided which are adjustable to take up
the slack caused by normal wear. In normal braking operation, the
slack adjuster is held rigid as a unit and rotates bodily with the brake
camshaft as the brakes are applied or released. Most efficient brake
action is obtained when this arm travel is held to a minimum so that
the full length of the lever is used. When adjustment is required, the
adjusting worm is turned, rotating a worm gear inside the slack ad-
261
TM 9-811
126
juster which turns the brake camshaft and cam, expanding the brake
shoes out against the drum, so that the slack is taken up and slack ad-
juster arm travel is returned to its original setting.
b. Adjustment. The procedure for adjusting brakes by means
of the slack adjuster is described in paragraph 124.
c. Removal.
(1) FRONT BRAKE SLACK ADJUSTER.
(a) Remove Clevis Pin. Remove the cotter pin holding the clevis
pin in the yoke on the end of the brake chamber push rod, and the pivot
handle in the slack adjuster arm, then remove the clevis pin.
Figure 124Removing Brake Chamber Mounting Bolts
(b) Remove Snap Ring. Using snap ring pliers (41-P-1572) re-
move the snap ring holding the slack adjuster on the brake camshaft
(fig. 122).
(c) Back Off Slack Adjuster. Turn the slack adjuster adjusting
worm to move the arm away from the yoke. The arm should be moved
completely out of contact with the yoke.
(d) Remove Slack Adjuster. Using a prick punch, make a mark
on the slack adjuster body, and on one of the splines of the brake cam-
262
TM 9-811
126-127
BRAKES
shaft, so that these parts may be reassembled in the same relative posi-
tions. Then slide the slack adjuster assembly off the brake camshaft
splines.
(2 ) REAR BRAKE SLACK ADJUSTER.
(a) Remove Clevis Pin. Remove the cotter pin holding the clevis
pin in the yoke on the end of the brake chamber push rod, and the pivot
handle in the slack adjuster arm, then remove the clevis pin.
(b) Back Off Rear Slack Adjuster. Turn the slack adjuster adjust-
ing worm to move the arm away from the yoke. The arm should be
moved completely out of contact with the yoke.
(c) Remove Slack Adjuster Retainer. Remove the cap screw hold-
ing the slack adjuster retainer washer to the brake camshaft, then re-
move the retainer (fig. 123).
(d) Remove Slack Adjuster. Using a prick punch, make a mark
on the slack adjuster body, and on one of the splines of the brake cam-
shaft, so that these parts may be reassembled in the same relative posi-
tions. Then slide the slack adjuster assembly off the brake camshaft
splines,
d. Installation.
(1) FRONT BRAKE SLACK ADJUSTER.
(a) Install Slack Adjuster. Line up the punch mark on the slack
adjuster body with the mark on the brake camshaft splines, then slide
the slack adjuster onto the camshaft.
(b) Install Snap Ring. Using snap ring pliers (41-P-1S72) in-
stall the snap ring" in the groove in the splines of the brake camshaft
to hold the slack adjuster assembly in place.
(c) Install Clevis Pin. Tighten the slack adjuster adjusting worm
to move the arm back into the brake chamber push rod yoke, then in-
stall the clevis pin through the yoke and the hole in the slack adjuster
arm and lock in place with a cotter pin.
(d) Adjust brakes as described in paragraph 124.
(2 ) REAR BRAKE SLACK ADJUSTER.
(a) Install Slack Adjuster. Line up the punch mark on the slack
adjuster body with the mark on the brake camshaft splines, then slide
the slack adjuster onto the camshaft.
(b) Install Slack Adjuster Retainer. Install the slack adjuster re-
tainer washer against the end of the brake camshaft and fasten in place
with the cap screw which was removed.
(c) Install Clevis Pin. Tighten the slack adjuster adjusting worm
to move the arm back into the brake chamber push rod yoke, then in-
stall the clevis pin through the yoke and the hole in the slack adjuster
arm and lock in place with a cotter pin.
(d) Adjust brakes as described in paragraph 124.
127. BRAKE CHAMBERS.
a. Description. The brake chambers consist of two dished metal
plates separated by a diaphragm. In front of the diaphragm is the
263
TM 9-811
127
brake chamber push rod, which is held back by a spring "when the
brakes are released, and which is forced outward by air pressure behind
the diaphragm when the brakes are applied. The brake chambers are
attached to the axle housing with the push rpds hooked onto the slack
adjusters.
Figure 125Removing Air Compressor
b. Removal.
(1) FRONT BRAKE CHAMBER.
(a) Release Air Pressure. Open the drain valves in the reservoir
tanks and release the air pressure.
(b) Remove Brake Chamber. Remove the cotter pin holding the
clevis pin in the brake chamber push rod yoke, and remove the clevis
264
TM 9-811
127-128
BRAKES
pin. Disconnect the air line attached to the brake chamber. Remove
nut and lock washer from the brake chamber mounting stud, and re-
move the brake chamber from the axle.
(2) REAR BRAKE CHAMBER.
(a) Release Air Pressure. Open the drain valves in the reservoir
tanks and release the air pressure.
(b) Remove Brake Chamber. Remove the cotter pin holding the
clevis pin in the brake chamber push rod yoke, and remove the clevis
pin. Disconnect the air line attached to the brake chamber. Remove
the bolts; nuts and lock washers attaching the brake chamber to the
brake chamber bracket on the axle housing, and remove the brake
chamber assembly (fig. 124).
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL FRONT BRAKE CHAMBER. Slide the brake chamber
assembly over the mounting stud, at the same time engaging the yoke
on the end of the push rod with the slack adjuster arm. Fasten the
assembly in place with the nut and lock washer which were removed.
Connect the brake chamber air line to the brake chamber. Install the
clevis pin through the push rod yoke and the hole in the slack ad-
juster arm, and lock in place with a cotter pin.
(2) INSTALL BRAKE CHAMBER. Install the brake chamber into
position on the brake chamber mounting bracket, at the same time
engaging the push rod yoke with the slack adjuster arm. Fasten the
assembly in place with the bolts, nuts and lock washers which were
removed. Connect the brake chamber air line to the brake chamber.
Install the clevis pin through the push rod yoke and the hole in the
slack adjuster arm and lock in place with a cotter pin.
128. AIR COMPRESSOR.
a. Description. The air compressor is a belt-driven, reciprocating,
high-speed, single-acting type with two cylinders. At a speed of 1250
revolutions per minute the compressor is capable of compressing 7Vi
cubic feet of air per minute.
b. Maintenance. The air cleaner assembly may be removed from
the compressor by removing two attaching screws and lock washers.
The curled hair may be removed from the cleaner by removing the
retainer clip, baffle plate and strainer plate at the bottom of the assem-
bly. The upper strainer and baffle plates should also be removed from
the cleaner housing. All parts should be thoroughly cleaned in dry-
cleaning solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air. Do not hold
air pressure too close to the hair as it may damage it. After the parts
are cleaned, dip the curled hair in engine oil and allow to drain. Then
install the parts into the air cleaner body in the following order: upper
baffle plate, upper strainer plate, curled hair and spring assembly,
lower strainer plate, lower baffle plate and retainer clip. The air cleaner
assembly may be installed on the air compressor with the cap screws
and lock washers which were removed, using a new gasket between
the air cleaner and the air compressor.
265
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128
c. Removal.
(1) DRAIN WATER FROM COOLING SYSTEM. Drain the water from
the cooling system as described in paragraph 84.
(2) RELEASE AIR PRESSURE. Open the drain valve on the reser-
voirs and release the air pressure from the air brake system.
(3) DISCONNECT DISCHARGE LINE. Disconnect the air compressor
discharge air line from the air compressor head.
Figure 126Removing Governor Mounting Nuts
(4) DISCONNECT WATER LINES AT COMPRESSOR CYLINDER HEAD.
Disconnect the fitting at the upper end of the air compressor water
inlet copper tube. Also loosen the hose clamp on the rubber hose run-
ning between the air compressor water outlet and the thermostat bypass
line, and disconnect the hose from the air compressor.
(5) REMOVE AIR COMPRESSOR. Remove the cap screws and lock
washers attaching the air compressor to the engine mounting bracket,
and lift the air compressor assembly out of the engine compartment,
working it free of the fan belts. Then remove the air compressor
mounting gasket (fig. 125).
d. Installation.
(1) INSTALL AIR COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY. Place a new gasket on
the air compressor mounting bracket, and lift the air compressor
266
TM 9-811
128-129
BRAKES
assembly into the engine compartment lowering it into place on the
mounting bracket, at the same time working the fan belts over the
pulley. Be careful not to damage the gasket while lining the assembly
up. Attach the air compressor in place with the cap screws and lock
(2 ) CONNECT AIR COMPRESSOR WATER LINES. Connect the copper
inlet water line to the air compressor inlet fitting on the air compressor
head. Install the water pump outlet rubber hose over the end of the
outlet tube on the air compressor head and tighten the hose clamp.
(3) CONNECT COMPRESSOR DISCHARGE LINE. Connect the air
compressor discharge line to the fitting on top of the cylinder head.
(4) ADD WATER TO COOLING SYSTEM (par. 84).
129. GOVERNOR.
a. Description. Since the air compressor is running all the time
the engine is in operation, a governing device is required to limit the
amount of air delivered to the reservoirs. A governor assembly is
mounted on the front of the cowl in the engine compartment which
limits this pressure to 105 pounds per square inch. The governor con-
sists of a Bourdon tube exerting pressure on a valve. The Bourdon
tube is C-shaped and closed at one end with the other'end connected
with the reservoirs. When the pressure in the reservoir reaches 105
pounds per square inch, the tube is straightened out a sufficient amount
by this pressure to operate 'the valve in the governor which opens an
unloader line which discharges all air pumped by the compressor to
the atmosphere. When the pressure drops, the tube tends to curl up
again, closing the valve which causes air to be delivered to the reser-
voirs once again.
b. Maintenance. A curled hair air strainer is provided at the base
of the governor assembly. Disconnect the air line between the governor
and the air supply valve at the governor and then remove the hexagon
plug at the bottom of the air strainer elbow and remove the strainer
assembly. Wash the strainer assembly in a suitable dry-cleaning sol-
vent, and then dip in engine oil and allow to drain before replacing on
the governor. Slide the strainer assembly into the housing at the base
of the governor and replace the hexagon plug. Connect the air line
between the governor and the air supply valve to the governor.
c. Removal.
voir, and release the air pressure from the air brake system.
(2) DISCONNECT AIR LINES. Disconnect the air lines running be-
tween the governor and the air compressor, and between the governor
and the air supply valve, at the governor.
(3) REMOVE GOVERNOR. Remove the nuts and lock washers hold-
ing the governor assembly to the dash, and remove the governor and
spacers from the mounting screws (fig. 126).
267
TM 9-811
129-130
d. Installation.
(1) INSTALL GOVERNOR. Install the spacers over the governor
mounting screws, install the governor into place, and replace the nuts
and lock washers which were removed.
(2) CONNECT AIR LINES. Connect the air lines running between
the governor and the air compressor, and between the governor and
the air supply valve, to the governor. v
Figure 127Removing Brake Valve Mounting Screws
130. BRAKE VALVE.
a. Description. The brake valve applies and releases the brakes.
The amount of air pressure delivered to the brake chambers is in
exact proportion to the amount of pedal travel, since the brake
valve is designed to balance the pressure controlling the valve in re-
lation to pedal travel and thus controlling the amount of air delivered
to the brake chambers. The brake valve is mounted on a bracket at-
tached to the frame rail underneath the floorboards on the driver's
side of the cab.
b. Removal.
(1) REMOVE LEFT FLOORBOARD. Remove screws holding the
floorboard in place, and remove the board from the left side of the cab.
268
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BRAKES
(2) RELEASE AIR PRESSURE. Open the drain valves on the drain
reservoirs and release the air pressure from the air brake system.
(3) DISCONNECT AIR LINES. Disconnect the air lines between the
brake valve and the check valve, between the brake valve and the air
reservoir, and the brake valve and the quick release valve, at the
brake valve.
(4) DISCONNECT PEDAL PULL-BACK SPRINGS. Unhook the clutch
pedal pull-back springs from the clips on the brake valve body.
(5) DISCONNECT BRAKE PEDAL LINK. Remove the cotter pin and
clevis pin from the yoke on the end of the brake pedal rod where it
attaches to the brake valve arm.
(6) REMOVE BRAKE VALVE. Remove the cap screws, nuts and
lock washers holding the brake valve assembly to the mounting bracket,
and remove the brake valve (fig. 127).
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL THE BRAKE VALVE ASSEMBLY. Install the brake
valve assembly into position on the mounting bracket, and fasten in
place with cap screws, nuts and lock washers. Note that the upper
mounting cap screws must also pass through the mounting flange on
the double check valve which is attached to the same bracket.
(2) CONNECT PEDAL LINK. Engage the yoke on the end of the
brake pedal rod over the end of the brake valve arm so that the holes
in the yokes line up with the lowest hole in the brake valve arm and
then install the clevis and cotter pins.
(3) CONNECT PEDAL PULL-BACK SPRINGS. Connect the brake and
clutch pedal pull-back springs to the clips on the brake valve body.
the brake valve and the check valve, between the brake valve and the
air reservoir, and between the brake valve and the quick release valve,
to the brake valve.
(5) INSTALL FLOORBOARD. Install the left floorboard and attach
it in place with the screws which were removed.
131. HAND BRAKE VALVE.
a. Description. The hand brake valve is similar to and performs
the same function as the brake valve, the only difference being that
the regulating spring is controlled by cam action "rather than lever
action, and that it has a piston instead of a diaphragm. It is mounted on
the steering post and controls the brakes on any unit trailed behind
the vehicle.
b. Removal.
(1) RELEASE AIR PRESSURE. Open the drain valve on the air reser-
voirs, and release the pressure from the air brake system.
tween the hand brake valve and the manifold fitting on the cowl, and
between the hand brake valve and the double check valve mounted
on the frame, at the hand brake valve. Also disconnect the fitting from
the discharge line at the hand brake valve.
269
TM 9-811
131-132
(3) REMOVE HAND BRAKE VALVE. Remove the cap screws and
nuts clamping the brake valve to the steering post and remove the
brake valve mounting cap and brake valve assembly (fig. 128).
Figure 128Removing Hand Brake Valve From Steering Post
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL HAND BRAKE VALVE. Place the hand brake valve
and mounting cap in position on the steering column, and fasten in place
with the cap screws and nuts which were removed.
(2) CONNECT AIR LINES. Connect air lines running between the
hand brake valve and the manifold fitting on the cowl and between the
hand brake valve and the double check valve mounted on the frame,
to the hand brake valve. Also connect the fitting on the end of the dis-
charge line to the hand brake valve.
132. QUICK RELEASE VALVE.
a. Description. A quick release valve is provided to speed up
the release of air from the brake chambers.
b. Removal.
270
TM 9-811
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BRAKES
(2) REMOVE LEFT FLOORBOARD. Remove the screws attaching
the floorboard on the left side of the cab and remove the floorboard.
tween the quick release valve and the brake valve and between the
quick release valve and the front brake chambers, at the quick release
valve.
(4) REMOVE QUICK RELEASE VALVE. Remove the cap screws,
nuts and lock washers attaching the quick release valve to the bracket
on the transmission, and remove the valve.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL QUICK RELEASE VALVE. Install a quick release valve
into position on the bracket on the transmission and attach it in place
with the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were removed.
(2) CONNECT AIR LINES. Connect the two air lines running be-
tween the quick release valve and the front brake chambers, and be-
tween the quick release valve and the brake valve, to the quick release
valve.
(3) INSTALL FLOORBOARD. Replace the floorboard in the left side
of the cab, and attach it in place with the screws which were removed.
133. RELAY VALVE.
a. Description. A relay valve is provided to speed up the appli-
cation and release of the rear brakes. It functions as a separate brake
application valve actuated by pressure from the brake valve. It is
mounted on the frame above the rear axles.
b. Removal. >
(1) RELEASE AIR PRESSURE. Open the drain valves on the reser-
voirs, and release the pressure from the air brake system.
t-ween the relay valve and the tee fittings on the axle housings, between
the relay valve and the right rear coupling, between the relay valve
and the reservoir, between the relay valve and the double check valve
on the frame rail, and between the relay valve and the double check
valve on the brake valve bracket, at the relay valve.
(3) REMOVE RELAY VALVE. Remove the cap screws and lock
washers attaching the relay valve to the frame support bracket, and
remove the relay valve (fig. 129).
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL RELAY VALVE. Install the relay valve in position on
the frame support bracket, and attach in place with the cap screws and
lock washers which were removed.
(2) CONNECT AIR LINES. Connect the two air lines running be-
tween the relay valve and the tee connections on the axle housings,
between the relay valve and the right rear coupling, between the relay
valve and the reservoir, between the relay valve and the double check
valve on the frame, and between the relay valve and the double check
valve on the brake valve bracket, at the relay valve.
271
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134
134. STOP LIGHT SWITCH.
a. Description. The stop light switch is an electro-pneumatic
device working in conjunction with the brake valve which operates the
stop light on the slightest brake application. The stop light switch is
located inside the channel of the left frame rail above the rear axles.
b. Removal.
(1) RELEASE AIR PRESSURE. Open the drain valves on the air reser-
Figure 129Removing Relay Valve Mounting Cap Screws
(2 ) DISCONNECT WIRES. Remove the terminal nuts and washers
and disconnect the wires from the stop light switch.
tween the stop light switch and the double check valve and between
the stop light switch and the left rear coupling, at the stop light switch.
(4) REMOVE STOP LIGHT SWITCH. Remove the cap screws, nuts
and lock washers holding the stop light switch to the frame rail and
remove the switch.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL STOP LIGHT SWITCH. Install the stop light switch
272
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BRAKES
into position on the frame rail and attach in place with the cap screws,
nuts and lock washers which were removed.
the stop light switch and the double check valve and between the stop
light switch and the left rear coupling, at the stop light switch.
(3) CONNECT WIRES. Connect the wires to the terminals on top
of the stop light switch, and fasten in place with the terminal nuts and
washers which were removed (fig. 85).
135. LOW-PRESSURE INDICATOR. SAFETY VALVE
AND AIR SUPPLY VALVE.
a. Description (fig. 130).
(1) LOW-PRESSURE INDICATOR. The low-pressure indicator is a
safety device designed to give automatic warning whenever the reser-
voir air pressure drops below the minimum amount required for ade-
quate brake application. It is an electro-pneumatic switch mounted on
the dash which sounds a buzzer in the cab whenever the air pressure is
below 50 pounds per square inch.
( 2 ) SAFETY VALVE. The safety valve is a safety device designed to
blow-off whenever the air pressure in the reservoirs exceed the safety
limit of 150 pounds per square inch. It is attached to the manifold fitting
on the cowl.
( 3 ) AIR SUPPLY VALVE. The air supply valve is mounted above the
manifold fitting on the dash and is used as a take-off for a source of air for
tire inflation. When used, the inflation hose is screwed into the adapter
fitting on the valve and then the valve handle is turned up so that air
is delivered under pressure from the reservoirs to the inflation hose.
When the inflation hose is removed, the handle should be turned down.
b. Removal.
(1) GENERAL. The low-pressure indicator, safety valve and air
supply valve may be_ removed as an assembly with the manifold fitting.
(2) RELEASE AIR PRESSURE. Open the drain valves in the reser-
voirs, and release the air pressure in the air brake system.
(3 ) DISCONNECT THE WIRES FROM THE LOW-PRESSURE INDICATOR.
Remove the terminal nuts and washers, and disconnect the wires from
the low-pressure indicator.
(4) DISCONNECT AIR LINES. Disconnect the air line running be-
tween the air supply valve and the governor at the air supply valve.
Disconnect the air line running between the hand brake valve and the
manifold fitting at the manifold fitting. Disconnect the air line running
between the manifold fitting and the reservoir at the manifold fitting.
Disconnect the air lines from the windshield wiper tee inside the cowl
panel, and remove the tee from the elbow in the line from the manifold
fitting.
(5) REMOVE ASSEMBLY. Remove the nuts and lock washers at-
taching the air supply valve and the manifold fitting to the dash and
remove the assembly (fig. 131).
73419 O - 47 - 18 273
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135
GOVERNOR
CONNECTOR
LOW PRESSURE
INDICATOR
SAFETY
VALVI
RA PD 304078
Figure 130Governor, Air Supply Valve, Safety and Low
Pressure Indicator
274
TM 9-811
135
BRAKES
Figure 131Removing Air Supply Valve, Safety Valve and
Low Pressure Indicator Assembly
(6) The low-pressure indicator, safety valve, air supply valve and
manifold fitting may then be disassembled from each other (fig. 214).
c. Installation.
(1) Assemble the low-pressure indicator, safety valve, air supply-
valve and manifold fitting together.
(2) INSTALL ASSEMBLY. Place the assembly into position on the
cowl and attach in place with the nuts and lock washers which were
removed.
(3) CONNECT AIR LINES. Connect the air lines between the gover-
nor and the air supply valve at the air supply valve. Connect the line
between the air supply valve and the hand brake valve at the air supply
valve. Connect the line between the air supply valve and the reservoir
at the air supply valve. Install the windshield wiper tee into the elbow
in the line from the manifold fitting from inside the cab. Then connect
the windshield wiper and gage air lines to the tee.
(4) CONNECT WIRES TO LOW-PRESSURE INDICATOR. Connect the
wires to the terminals on the low-pressure indicator and attach them in
place with the terminal nuts and washers which were removed (fig. 85 ).
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TM 9-811
136
136. PARKING BRAKE.
a. Description. The parking brake is the disk type, mounted in
the drive line in back of the transfer. Four brake shoes drag on the disk
to provide the braking resistance (fig. 132).
ALOCK NUT
B-RELEASE SPRING
C-OPERATING LEVER
DLEVER ARM
tSHOE SPRING
FALINEMENT SCREWS
H-BRAKE SHOE PIN
J-BRAKE ROD
RA PD 304975
Figure 132Parking Brake Assembly
b. Adjustment.
(1) HAND LEVER ADJUSTMENT. Slack may be taken out of the
hand brake control by adjusting the yoke at the end of the brake cable.
276
TM 9-811
136
BRAKES
First remove the cotter and clevis pins, holding the yoke to the brake
cross shaft, then loosen the jam nut and turn the yoke until the proper
adjustment is obtained. Connect the yoke to the brake cross shaft with
the cotter and clevis pins.
(2) SHOE ADJUSTMENT.
(a) Tighten nut A so that spring B exerts enough pressure to bring
lever C to stop solidly against lever arm D (fig. 132).
PDJ04967
Figure 133Adjusting Parking Brake
(b) Insert %2-inch feeler gage between the front shoe lining and
disk, and adjust pull rod J to maintain this clearance, first being sure to
have hand lever in full release position.
(c) Tighten nut A so that rear lining has %2-inch clearance with
disk (fig. 133).
(d) See that tension spring E is in place, then adjust screws F so
that linings are parallel with disk. Remove feeler gage.
c. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Remove the cap screws,
nuts and lock washers holding the flange yoke at the forward end of the
277
TM 9-811
136
propeller shaft between the transfer and the forward rear axle to the
companion flange on the transfer, then drop the propeller shaft out of
the way.
(2 ) DISCONNECT BRAKE CABLE AND CONTROL ARMS. Remove the
three cotter and clevis pins from the brake cable and control arms.
(3) REMOVE BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLIES. Remove the cap screws
and lock washers holding the brake shoe assemblies to the frame cross
member and remove these (fig. 134).
Figure 134Removing Brake Shoe Assembly
(4) REMOVE BRAKE DISK. Remove the brake disk from the trans-
fer companion flange (fig. 135).
d. Installation.
(1) INSTALL DISK. Install the disk on the transfer companion
flange.
(2) INSTALL BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY. Install the brake shoe as-
semblies into position with the shoes over the disk, and attach to the
frame cross member with the cap screws and lock washers which were
removed.
278
TM 9-811
136
BRAKES
RA-PD 303905
Figure 135Removing Brake Disk
(3 ) CONNECT BRAKE CABLE AND CONTROL ARMS. Install the cotter
and clevis pins to connect the brake cable and control arms.
(4) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Swing the propeller shaft into
position and bolt the flange yoke to the companion flange on the transfer,
using the cap screws, nuts and lock washers which were removed.
(5) ADJUST PARKING BRAKE. Adjust the parking brake as de-
scribed in paragraph 136 b.
279
TM 9-811
137-138
Section XXX
WHEELS
Paragraph
Wheels 138
Brake drums 139
137. DESCRIPTION AM) TABULATED DATA.
a. Description. The wheels used on all 4-tbn, 6x6 vehicles are
the tapered-disk type. Single wheels are mounted on the front axle with
duals mounted on both rear axles. The wheels and the brake drums are
bolted to the hubs which turn on a set of opposed tapered roller wheel
bearings. The wheels may be removed separately or as assemblies with
the hubs and drums.
b. Tabulated Data.
(1) WHEELS.
Make Budd
Number -. 44460
Type Tapered disk
Size 20 in. x 8
Offset 6V& in.
Bolt circle 11i/4 in. dia
Number of bolt holes 10
(2) TIRES:
Type Mud and snow
Number of plies 10
Size .900x20
Pressure 65 Ib psi
(3) WHEEL BEARINGS.
Make Timken
Type Tapered roller
Number
Front
Inner bearing 592-A cup594 cone
Outer bearing 498 cup493 cone
Rear 5520 cup5557 cone
(4) ADJUSTMENT 0.003 in.0.005 in. loose
138. WHEELS,
a. Wheel Nuts.
(1) All studs and cap nuts are plainly marked "R" and "L" desig-
nating right- and left-hand threads which are used to offset any tend-
280
TM 9-811
138
WHEELS
ency of the cap nuts to work loose. Those marked "R" must be used on
the right side of the chassis, while those marked "L" must be used on
the left side.
(2) The dual wheels are locked with double cap nuts. The inner
dual is individually held by a sleeve-like inner cap nut. The inner dual
must be mounted and tightened down before the outer wheel is put on.
The other dual slips over the inner cap nuts and is locked in place with
the outer nuts. The wheels do not pilot at the hub center; the entire load
is distributed over the cap nuts and studs.
Figure 136Removing Snap Ring with Pliers (41-P-1572)
'(3) It is good practice to make frequent checks for tightness in
the studs and cap screws. Always clean the wheels before reassembling,
especially at the countersunk holes and bolt on flanges.
b. Wheel Removal.
(1) FRONT WHEELS.
(a) General. The wheel nuts provided on the front wheel are
exactly the same as those provided for dual mounting of the rear wheel.
With a single wheel installation on the front, the outer nut serves no
purpose.
281
TM 9-811
138
(b) Loosen Wheel Nuts. Use the wheel nut wrench from the vehicle
tool kit, and loosen the inner wheel nuts on the wheel studs.
(c) Support Vehicle on Jacks. Install a jack under the front axle
housing on the side to be raised, and lift the vehicle so that the tire just
clears the ground. <
(d) Remove Wheels. Remove the wheel nuts from the wheel
mounting studs and slide the wheel assembly from the axle. Note that
the outer wheel nuts are removed assembled to the inner nuts.
Figure 137Removing Inner Wheel Bearing Cone
( 2 ) REAR WHEELS.
(a) Support Vehicle on Jacks. Place a jack under the rear axle
housing on the side of the vehicle of which the wheels are to be removed
and raise it so that the tires just clear the ground.
(b) Remove Outer Wheels. Using the wheel nut wrench provided
with the vehicle tool kit, remove the outer wheel nuts and take off the
outer wheel.
(c) Remove Inner Wheel. Using the wheel nut wrench provided
with the vehicle tool kit, remove the inner wheel nuts and take off the
inner wheels.
c. Wheel Installation.
(1) FRONT WHEELS.
(a) Install Front Wheels. Lift the front wheel assembly into place
and slide it over the wheel mounting studs so that the offset is towards
282
TM 9-811
138
WHEELS
the vehicle. Then install the wheel nuts on the studs and tighten them
securely with the wheel nut wrench. Note that the inner and outer wheel
nuts are installed as an assembly.
(b) Remove Jack. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove
the jack.
AXLI SHAFT FLANGE
INNER WHEEL
BEARING
OUTER
WHEEL
BEARING
LOCK
OUTER NUT
DOWEL
AXLE SHAFT FLANGE NUT
Figure 138Rear Wheel Hub and Bearings
RA PD 304972
(2) REAR WHEELS.
(a) Install Inner Wheel. Lift the inner wheel assembly into posi-
tion with the offset facing towards the vehicle, and slide the wheel over
the wheel mounting studs. Then install the inner wheel nuts and tighten
them with the wheel nut wrench.
(b) Install Outer Wheels. Lift the outer wheel assembly into posi-
tion with the offset facing away from the vehicle, and slide it over the
283
TM 9-811
138
inner wheel nuts. Then install the outer wheel nuts and tighten them
securely with the wheel nut wrench.
(c) Remove Jack. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove
the jack.
d. Front Wheel Bearing Removal.
(1) JACK UP VEHICLE. Place a jack under the axle housing on the
side of the vehicle of which the wheels are to be removed and raise it
so that the tires just clear the ground.
fRA-PD 303709
Figure 139Removing Rear Wheel Bearing Lock Nut
(2) REMOVE FRONT AXLE DRIVE FLANGE. Remove the nuts and
lock washers holding the drive flange on the hub studs. Using a snap
ring spreader, remove the snap ring from the groove in the end of the
stub shaft in the center of the drive flange (fig. 136). Then remove the
drive flange by tightening two -Vs-inch puller screws in the puller screw
holes. When the assembly is loose, remove it and take off the gasket.
(3) REMOVE OUTER WHEEL BEARING CONE. Straighten out a por-
tion of the wheel bearing nut retainer holding the outer wheel bearing
nut, and remove the outer nut with the wrench provided in the vehicle
tool kit. Straighten out the portion of the retainer holding the inner
wheel nut and remove the retainer and inner wheel nut, using the special
wrench provided in the vehicle tool kit. Shake the wheel assembly to
jar the bearing cone loose, and remove the cone.
284
TM 9-811
138
WHEELS
(4 ) REMOVE THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY. Place a" greased board under
the tire and lower the vehicle on the jack so that the tire rests lightly on
the greased board, then pull the wheel assembly from the axle, sliding
it along on the greased board.
( 5 ) REMOVE INNER WHEEL BEARING. Using an offset screwdriver,
pry the cone loose (fig. 137).
(6) REMOVE THE BEARING CUPS. Wipe the bearing cups clean and
examine them for signs of pitting or wear. If they are damaged so that
replacement is necessary, they may be removed from the hub using a
suitable puller. If the cups are in satisfactory condition, they should not
be removed.
Figure 140Installing Inner Front Wheel Bearing Cone
e. Rear Wheel Bearing Removal (fig. 138).
(1) JACK UP VEHICLE. Place a jack under the axle housing on the
side of the vehicle on which wheel bearings are to be removed, and raise
the vehicle so that the tires just clear the ground.
(2) REMOVE AXLE SHAFT. Remove the axle shaft as described in
paragraph 119.
(3) REMOVE OUTER WHEEL BEARING CONE. Using the wheel
bearing wrench provided with the vehicle tool kit, remove the wheel
bearing lock nut (fig. 139). Then remove the wheel bearing lock ring.
285
TM 9-811 .
138
Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut, using the wheel bearing nut
wrench. Rock the wheel assembly to jar the outer wheel bearing cone
loose, and remove the cone.
(4) REMOVE WHEEL ASSEMBLY. Place a greased board under the
tires and lower the vehicle so that the tires rest lightly on the board,
then slide the wheel assembly from the axle.
(5) REMOVE INNER WHEEL BEARING CONE. Using an offset
screwdriver, work the inner wheel bearing cone loose and remove it.
Figure 141Installing Outer Front Wheel Bearing Cone
( 6 ) REMOVE WHEEL BEARING CUPS. Wipe the wheel bearing cups
clean, and examine them for signs of pitting or wear which might make
them unfit for further service. If they are damaged badly enough so
that replacement is necessary, they may be removed from the hub, using
a suitable puller.
f. Front and Rear Wheel Bearing Installation.
(1) INSTALL BEARING CUPS. If the bearing cups were removed
from the hub, these will have to be installed. Place the cups into posi-
tion in the hub with the low side of the taper facing out and drive them
into position, using a hammer and drift punch, and working the punch
around the cup. One cup is installed from each side of the hub.
(2) INSTALL INNER WHEEL BEARING. Pack inner wheel bearing
with recommended lubricant, being sure that the grease is thoroughly
286
TM 9-811
138
WHEELS
worked in on both sides of the rollers. Then slide the inner wheel bearing
in place on the axle tube, using a hammer and drift punch to seat it
against the shoulder on the tube. Do not pound on the rollers or the
cage (fig. 140).
(3) PACK GREASE INTO THE HUB. Pack the space in the hub be-
tween the two wheel bearing cups with grease until it is V<. to % full.
(4) INSTALL WHEEL ASSEMBLY. Roll the wheel assembly into
position on the greased board and then slide it into position on the axle,
pushing it all the way back so that the inner wheel bearing cone seats
Figure 142Prying Off Front Wheel Bearing Grease
Retainer Outer Ring
in the inner wheel bearing cup. Then hold the wheel in place and press
the outer bearing cone firmly into position (fig. 141). Install the inner
wheel bearing nut to hold the cone in place.
g. Front and Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment. Start the wheel
assembly rotating and tighten the inner wheel bearing nut until the
wheel binds. Then back off the nut just far enough to permit free rota-
tion without end play. When this is done, test the adjustment with a b'
used as a lever between the tire and the floor. Hold a finger on the outer
bearing cage while working the bar up and down so that it will be pos-
sible to detect any excessive play or looseness. If the wheel rotates freely
and there is a barely perceptible shake, the adjustment is correct.
Proper adjustment is from 0.003 inch to 0.005 inch loose.
287
TM 9-811
138
(1) INSTALL OUTER WHEEL BEARING NUT. Replace the locking
washer or retainer against the inner nut. Then install the outer wheel
bearing nut, and run it up tight against the inner wheel bearing nut.
Then test the adjustment again and make any corrections which are
necessary. In the case of the front wheel, it will be necessary to bend
Figure 143Prying Off Rear Wheel Bearing Grease Retainer
the sides of the split retainer against the flat sides of the inner and outer
wheel bearing nuts to lock the adjustment.
(2) INSTALL AXLE SHAFT (REAR AXLE). Cover the end of the
axle tube and the lock nut with grease, and install the axle shaft, using
a new gasket as described in paragraph 119.
(3) INSTALL DRIVE FLANGE (FRONT AXLE). Pack the end of the
axle tube and the wheel bearing nuts with grease, and -slide the drive
288
TM 9-811
138
WHEELS
flange into position over the splines of the stub shaft and over the hub
studs, using a new gasket between the flange and the hub. Install the
nuts and lock washers which were removed. Install the snap ring in the
groove at the outer end of the stub shaft and splines, using snap ring
pliers.
(4) LOWER VEHICLE TO GROUND.
and remove the jack.
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Figure 144Removing Drum Stud Nuts
h. Front Wheel Bearing Grease Retainer Replacement.
(1) REMOVE WHEELS AND WHEEL BEARINGS. Remove wheels and
wheel bearings as described in paragraph 138 d.
( 2 ) REMOVE GREASE RETAINER. Using screwdrivers, pry the outer
retainer ring away from the felt and remove this part. Then remove the
felt from the inner retainer ring (fig. 142).
(3 ) INSTALL NEW GREASE RETAINER. Install a new felt into posi-
tion on the inner retainer ring. Slide the outer ring into place and tap it
snugly into position.
(4) INSTALL WHEELS. Replace wheels and adjust the wheel bear-
ing as described in paragraph 141 d.
734619 O - 47 - 19 289
TM 9-811
138-139
i. Rear Wheel Bearing Crease Retainer Replacement.
(1) REMOVE WHEELS. Remove wheel and wheel bearings as de-
scribed in paragraph 141 cl.
(2) REMOVE GREASE RETAINER SEAL. Using two screwdrivers,
pry the felt retainer ring away from the felt. Then remove two washers
and the felt ring (fig. 143).
(3) INSTALL GREASE SEALS. Install a new felt ring into position
Figure 145Locking Drum Stud Nuts with Chisel
on the axle tube with a washer on each side of it. Install the felt retainer
ring into place and tap it snugly into position.
(4) INSTALL WHEELS. Replace the wheels and adjust the wheel
bearings as described in paragraph 138 d.
139. BRAKE DRUMS,
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE WHEEL. Remove wheel, hub and drum assembly as
described in paragraph 141 d.
(2) REMOVE BRAKE DRUM FROM HUB. Lay the wheel flat on the
floor with the brake drum facing up, and remove the brake drum stud
nuts, then lift the brake drum from the hub studs (fig. 144).
290
TM 9-811
139
WHEELS
b. Inspection. Examine the brake drum for signs of cracking,
warping or grooving, or any other condition which might affect perform-
ance of the vehicle brakes. Drums which are slightly out-of-round and
not too badly grooved, can be salvaged by turning them in a lathe to cut
a new surface. Drums badly warped or grooved, and drums which are
cracked, must be replaced.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL DRUM ASSEMBLY ON HUB. Install the drum assem-
bly into position over the stud nuts. Tighten these securely after the
nuts are tightened. It will be necessary to use a center punch or a chisel
to bend the metal in the stud nuts to prevent the nut from shaking loose
(fig. 145).
(2) INSTALL WHEEL. Replace wheel assembly as described in
paragraph 141 d.
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Section XXXI
SUSPENSION
Paragraph
Front springs 141
Shock absorbers 142
Rear springs 143
Torque rods 144
a. Description. The front axle is sprung on a set of heavy-duty
rubber-shackled springs. These are semielliptic springs with the shackle
at the rear end. Axle drive is transmitted through the spring pins. The
rear axles are mounted in tandem suspension with the drive through
torque rods. The spring is mounted on a seat which oscillates on a
rocker beam attached to the frame with the spring ends resting in clips
on top of the axle housings.
b. Tabulated Data.
(1) FRONT SPRINGS.
Length 49 in.
Material Chrome vanadium steel
Leaves:
Number 12
Width .3 in.
Total thickness Sê in.
Number of rebound clips 4
(2) SHOCK ABSORBERS.
Make Houde
Type Hydraulic
Model BBH
(3) REAR SPRINGS.
Length 56 Vi in.
Material Chrome vanadium steel
Leaves (Cargo):
Number 9
Width 4 in.
Total thickness 4V8 in.
Leaves (Wrecker):
Number 9
Width 4 in.
Total thickness 4 Vfe in.
Number of rebound clips 4
(4) TORQUE RODS.
Make Timken
Number of adjustable type 4
Number of fixed type 4
292
293
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TM 9-811
141
141. FRONT SPRINGS.
a. Description. The front springs are mounted on the axle and
attached to the frame as shown in figure 146.
h. Maintenance. The spring pins, shackle pins and spring clips
must be kept tight. At every vehicle inspection period, the U-bolts
attaching the springs to the front axle housing, and the rubber bushed
pins through the spring eyes and through the shackles at the rear of the
Figure 147Installing Spring Shackle Rubber Bushings
springs, should be tightened if necessary. The rubber bushings are ex-
posed to the atmosphere around the edges of the spring and shackle
pins, and will deteriorate in normal service. This deterioration can be
retarded by wiping the edges of the bushings with hydraulic brake fluid
at each inspection.
c. Removal.
(1) RAISE VEHICLE ON JACKS. Raise the vehicle on jacks placed
under the front bumper and lift it just high enough to relieve all strain
from the front spring eye. If it is too high or too low, there will be suffi-
cient strain on the rubber bushings to make it very difficult to remove
the spring pins.
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SUSPENSION
(2) REMOVE SPRING PIN AND BUSHINGS. Remove the cotter pin
from the front spring nut and then remove the nut and washer. The
spring pin may then be driven from the bushings in the spring eye.
After the pin is removed, the rubber bushings may be pulled out.
( 3 ) SUPPORT VEHICLES ON BLOCKS. Raise the vehicle two or three
inches more on the jacks and then pile wooden blocks under each corner
of the front bumper. Then lower the vehicle onto the blocks and remove
the jacks.
(4) REMOVE U-BoLTS. Remove the U-bolt nuts and then pry the
U-bolts off the springs (fig. 234). Remove the spring bumper from the
spring. After the U-bolts are removed, the bracket at the bottom of the
axle housing through which the U-bolts pass can be separated from the
axle housing but will still be attached to the shock absorber link. It is
not necessary to disconnect this part from the shock absorber link.
(5) REMOVE REAR SHACKLE PIN. Remove the cotter pin from the
upper shackle pin nut and then remove the nut and washer. Drive the
shackle pin from the spring eye, and remove the rubber bushings.
(6) REMOVE FRONT SPRING ASSEMBLY. The front spring assembly
may then be removed from the chassis by pulling it out from the front.
(7) REMOVE SHACKLE. Remove the cotter pin from the lower
shackle pin nut, and remove the nut and washer. Drive out the shackle
pin and remove the rubber bushings. Remove, shackle from rear spring
hanger.
d. Inspection. Clean the spring assembly in dry-cleaning solvent
and examine for signs of broken or cracked leaves. If the spring is broken
or improperly arched, it must be replaced. Examine the rubber shackle
bushings for signs of wear. If badly worn, they should be replaced; but
if they are in good condition, they may be used again. Examine the rub-
ber plug in the spring bumper and replace if necessary.
e. Installation.
(1) INSTALL SHACKLE. Wipe the rubber bushings with hydraulic
brake fluid to help preserve the rubber and to facilitate installation. Lift
the shackle into place on the rear spring hanger with the free end facing
up and then insert the rubber bushings, one from each end, through the
shackle ends and into the spring hanger eye. Then drive the shackle pin
through the bushing. Place a washer over the threaded end of the pin
and then replace the nut. Do not tighten the nut.
(2) INSTALL SPRING ASSEMBLY. Slide the spring assembly into
position engaging the rear spring eye with the upper end of the shackle
attached to the rear hanger. Then wipe the rubber bushings with
hydraulic brake fluid and push these into place between the shackle,
and spring eyes from each side. Then drive the upper shackle pin
through the rubber bushings. Install a washer over the threaded end
of the shackle pin and then replace the shackle pin nut. Do not tighten
the nut (fig. 147).
(3) INSTALL U-BOLTS. Position the spring assembly on the axle
housing so the spring center bolt engages the hole in the axle housing at
the center of the spring seat. Then place the spring bumper in position
in the middle of the spring. Install the U-bolts over the springs hooking
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4-TON, 6x6 TRUCKS (DIAMOND T. MODELS 968A CARGO,
them over the grooves in the bumper block and sliding them through
the holes drilled in the axle housing. Then grasp the lower U-bolt
bracket which is attached to the shock absorber connecting link, and
swing this into position seating it tight against the axle housing with
the threaded ends of the U-bolt passing through the holes in each corner.
Then install the U-bolt nuts and lock washers and tighten them securely.
(4) LINE UP FRONT SPRING EYE WITH FRONT SPRING HANGER.
Place jacks under the front bumper and raise the vehicle just far
RA-PD 303642
Figure 148Disconnecting Shock Absorber Link
enough to permit removal of the blocks on which it is supported. Then
lower the vehicle slowly until the front spring eye lines up with the front
spring hanger eyes.
(5) INSTALL FRONT SPRING PIN. Wipe the rubber bushings with
hydraulic brake fluid and slide these into the front spring eye from each
side of the front hanger. Then drive the spring pin through the rubber
bushings. Install a washer on the threaded end of the spring pin and re-
place the nut.
(6) TIGHTEN SPRING PIN AND SHACKLE PIN NUTS. The rubber
bushings are made with an excess of rubber which is to be pulled into
the spring eyes and hangers causing the rubber to flow tightly against
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SUSPENSION
the spring eyes and hangers, forming a flange that insulates the moving
parts so that there is no side-slap. Keep the spring eyes centrally located
while tightening the nuts so that the space on either side between the
spring and the shackle or the hanger will be about l/a inch. Draw the
nuts up a sufficient amount so that the rubber begins to flow out around
the edges of the pins and washers. The front spring pin and the upper
and lower shackle pins are all tightened in the same way. After the nuts
are tightened, install cotter pins to lock them in place.
(7 ) REMOVE JACKS. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove
the jacks.
142. SHOCK ABSORBERS.
a. Description. Double-acting type hydraulic shock absorbers
are used in conjunction with the front springs to control and steady
body movement over rough terrain. The shock absorber is the auto-
matic type which adjusts itself to the severity of shock and is also ther-
mostatically controlled so that no adjustment is required for tempera-
ture changes.
b. Maintenance.
(1) FILLING THE SHOCK ABSORBER. The shock absorber must be
kept filled at all times with shock absorber fluid. The level of fluid
should be checked with each regular chassis inspection and fluid added
as required. To fill the shock absorber, remove the plug in the top of the
shock absorber body and add fluid slowly with a lubricating gun filled
with shock absorber fluid. When the fluid is up to the level of the plug
opening as indicated by fluid oozing out of the opening, install the plug.
(2) ADJUSTMENT. The control valves are arranged so that they
may be controlled by turning the adjustment located at the center of
the shock absorber arm. To increase resistance, turn the valve clock-
wise, and to decrease resistance, turn it counterclockwise. These adjust-
ments must be made in very gradual steps, not more than Vs inch at a
time, as measured in the movement at the end of the pointer on the
adjustment. This adjustment should not be made until after fluid has
been added to the shock absorber, and then only when it has been
definitely established that the resistance offered by shock absorber is
not properly adjusted.
c. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT CONNECTING LINK. Disconnect the connecting
link at the lower end where it is attached to the U-bolt pad. Use a box
wrench on the connecting link ball pin nut, and use a screwdriver in the
slotted end of the ball pin to keep it from turning while loosening the
nut (fig. 148). Remove the nut and lock washer. Drive the pin from the
bracket on the axle.
(2) REMOVE SHOCK ABSORBER. Remove the cap screws, nuts and
lock washers attaching the shock absorber assembly to the frame rail,
then remove the shock absorber and connecting link assembly.
( 3 ) REMOVE CONNECTING LINK. Place a box wrench over the nut
on the connecting link ball pin, and hold a screwdriver on the slotted end
of the pin to keep the pin from turning, then remove the nut and lock
washer, and drive the pin from the shock absorber arm.
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d. Installation.
(1) INSTALL CONNECTING LINK. Drive connecting link ball pin
through the shock absorber arm from the inner side, and install the nut
and lock washer. Tighten the nut securely while keeping the connecting
link ball pin from turning, by holding the screwdriver in the slot on the
end of the pin.
(2) INSTALL SHOCK ABSORBER ON FRAME RAIL. Place the shock
absorber assembly on the frame rail with the arm pointing toward the
rear, and attach it in place with the cap screws, nuts and lock washers
which were removed.
Figure 149Rear Suspension
(3) CONNECT CONNECTING LINK. Drive the ball joint pin in the
lower end of the connecting link through the hole in the U-bolt pad
under the axle housing, and install the nut and lock washer which were
removed. Then tighten the nuts securely while keeping the connecting
link ball pin from turning, by holding the screwdriver in the slot on the
end of the pin.
143. REAR SPRINGS.
a. Description. The rear springs are mounted on a tandem sus-
pension as shown in figure 149. They act as load-equalizing members,
carrying the axle load. They are mounted in an oscillating spring seat
which is free to turn on the rocker beam tube with the ends resting on
the spring plates on the axle housing so that they are free to move, thus
eliminating twisting action. The rear springs used on these vehicles are
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SUSPENSION
designed to work under negative arch under rated load. When the
vehicle is standing on level ground without load, the springs are approxi-
mately level with zero arch, and when the vehicle is fully loaded there
will be approximately 2 inches of negative arch.
b. Tightening Spring Seat. Before tightening the U-bolts, tighten
the spring seat clamping bolts to line up the spring in the seat (fig. 150).
Then tighten the U-bolt nuts to pull the spring down as tightly as pos-
sible. This should be done at every regular vehicle inspection.
Figure 150Tightening Spring Seat Clamping Bolts
c. Removal.
(1) JACK UP VEHICLE. Place a jack under the rocker beam tube
on the side of the vehicle from which the spring is to be removed, and
raise the vehicle just high enough to relieve the spring of all tension.
( 2 ) REMOVE SPRING. Remove the nuts and lock washers from each
U-bolt and then pry the U-bolts off the springs. After the U-bolts are
removed the U-bolt spring plate may be taken out. Back off the spring
seat clamp bolts far enough to relieve all tension from the lock washers
under the bolt heads. Place a jack under each axle housing on the side
of the vehicle from which the spring is being removed and raise the
axles high enough to exert pressure on the spring. Using a pry-bar, force
the spring out of the spring seat while raising the jacks slowly to increase
the load on the spring to assist this operation.
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143
(3) REMOVE SPRING SEAT. Remove the clamp bolt, nut and lock
washer from the spring seat cap on the end of the rocker beam, and
take out the locking plate which is located in the slot cut in the cap.
Unscrew the cap from the end of the rocker beam, then remove the
outer cork oil seal. Grasp the oscillating spring seat with both hands
and pull it off the rocker beam (fig. 151). The inner cork oil seal may
then be removed (fig. 152).
Figure 151Removing Rear Spring Seat
(4) LOWER AXLES TO GROUND. Lower the jacks under the axles
so that the axles again rest on the ground.
( 5 ) REMOVE THE REAR SPRING ASSEMBLY. Slide the spring assem-
bly forward until the rear end can be worked out of the spring plate on
the axle housing and the stop arm on the torque rod bracket. Then pull
the spring assembly out from the rear of the vehicle.
d. Inspection. Clean the spring assembly, using a dry-cleaning
solvent, and examine it carefully for signs of cracks or broken leaves.
Defective springs must be replaced. Clean the bushings in the spring
seat, and examine them for signs of excessive wear or scoring. If the
bushings are found defective, the spring seat assembly must be replaced.
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SUSPENSION
e. Installation.
(1) INSTALL SPRING ASSEMBLY. Install new cork gasket around
spring bolt on the under side of spring, cementing it in place with gas-
ket cement. Slide the spring assembly into position from the rear of
the vehicle engaging the flat end under the stop arms on the front spring
plate on the axle housing and pushing the axle assembly as far forward
as possible. Then line up the rear end of the spring with the rear spring
plate on the rear rear axle housing, and move the whole assembly back
into position.
Figure 152Removing Spring Seat Inner Cork Oil Seal
(2 ) RAISE AXLES. Place jacks under the axle housings on the side
of the vehicle on which the spring is being replaced and raise the hous-
ing far enough so that there will be clearance to install the spring seat
under the spring.
(3) INSTALL SPRING SEAT. Note that the spring seat has an inner
and outer side and that the outer side can be distinguished by the bush-
ing which extends about Vs inch outside of the outer face. Install a new
cork gasket in the recess on the inner side of the spring seat, cementing
it in place with gasket cement. Install a spring seat cork in the recess
provided for the spring center bolt. This cork will prevent dirt and
water from entering the spring seat bearing. Wipe the bushings in the
spring seat and the bearing surface on the rocker beam tube with engine
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143
oil and then slide the spring seat into position on the tube with the inner
side towards the vehicle (fig. 153).
(4) WORK SPRING INTO SPRING SEAT. Lower the jacks under the
axle housings so that the axle again rests on the ground and remove the
jacks. Then raise the jack under the rocker beam tube, forcing the seat
up against the spring. Hammer the spring in place, using a soft ham-
mer. If difficulty is encountered seating the spring, it may be pulled
Figure 153Cementing Cork Oil Seal on Inner Side of Spring Seat
into place with the U-bolts, but care must be exercised to see that the
spring bolt engages the hole in the middle of the spring seat.
(5) INSTALL U-BoLTS. Place the U-bolt spring plate into position
on top of the spring assembly and then install the U-bolts over the plate
and through the holes in the axle housing, engaging the U-bolts in the
grooves in the U-bolt spring plate. Then install the U-bolts, nuts and
lock washers and tighten securely. To pull the spring assembly down
square on its seat, loosen the U-bolt nuts and tighten the spring seat
clamping nuts to square up the spring assembly in the seat. Then tighten
the U-bolt nuts.
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303
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SUSPENSION
Figure 155Installing Lock Plate and Clamp Bolt
Figure 154Installing Spring Seat Cap and Gasket
TM 9-811
143-144
(6) INSTALL SPRING SEAT CAP (figs. 154 and 155 ). Cement a new
cork oil seal into the recess in the spring seat cap. Then install the cap,
tightening it against the spring seat as close as possible but not tight
enough to bind. Install the lock plate in the groove in the spring seat
cap, engaging it at the same time with a slot in the rocker beam tube.
Install the clamp screw through the holes in the spring seat cap and the
lock plate. Install the nut and lock washer and tighten securely.
( 7 ) LOWER VEHICLE TO THE GROUND. Lower vehicle to the ground
and remove the jacks from under the rocker beam tube.
TORQUE ROD PIN PULLER
(41-P-2956-8)
Figure 156Pulling Upper Torque Rod Center Pin
144. TORQUE RODS.
a. Description. Axle alinement is maintained by means of torque
rods which transmit axle torque to the spring seats on these vehicles.
Eight torque rods are used, four on each side, two above and two below
the axles. The lower torque rods are fixed, but the upper ones are
adjustable.
b. Removal.
(1) SUPPORT VEHICLE ON JACKS. Place jack under rocker beam
tube and raise jack until it just starts to lift on the side from which the
torque rods are to be removed. Block axles so they will not tip.
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SUSPENSION
(2) REMOVE UPPER TORQUE RODS. Drive out the locking pins on
the inner ends of the upper torque rods. Using a hammer and drift
punch, drive from the underside of the pin as it is tapered and must be
removed in this direction. Use the torque rod pin puller (41-P-2956-8)
to remove the torque rod pins at the inner ends of the upper rods (fig.
156). Then remove the nuts and lock washers from the torque rod pins
on the outer ends of the upper torque rods. Then knock the inner ends
of the upper torque rods out of the torque rod bracket and drive the
torque rod pin from the torque rod bracket on the axles at the outer
ends of the upper torque rods and remove the torque rods (fig. 157).
Figure 157Removing Upper Torque Rod
(3) REMOVE LOWER TORQUE RODS. Remove the nuts and lock
washers from the torque rod pins at both ends of the lower torque rods.
Then drive the torque rod pins out of the torque rod bracket on the
frame and the torque rod brackets on the axles, using a -soft hammer.
Then remove the lower torque rods.
c. Installation.
(1) ADJUST Two OF THE UPPER TORQUE RODS. Loosen the clamp
on the upper torque rod adjustment on two of the rods, and adjust them
to the same length as the lower torque rods which are not adjustable.
After the rods are adjusted, tighten the clamping nut on the adjustment.
734619 O - 47 - 20
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(2) INSTALL LOWER TORQUE RODS. Install the lower torque rods
into position, driving the tapered pins into their seats in the torque rod
frame bracket and the torque rod axle brackets and then install the
nuts and lock washers which were removed. Tighten the nuts securely.
(3) INSTALL Two UPPER TORQUE RODS. Install the two upper
torque rods which have been previously adjusted to the same length as
the lower torque rods, installing one forward on one side of the vehicle,
and the other toward the rear on the other side of the vehicle, that is,
diagonally across the rocker beam tube. Drive the torque rod pins into
the axle brackets for these two rods and install the nuts and lock washers
which were removed. Then raise the inner end of the rods to line it up
with the holes in the upper frame brackets and drive the torque rod
Figure 158Installing Upper Torque Rod Center Pin
pins through the brackets and through the eyes in the end of the rods,
lining up the groove in the pins with the holes in the brackets (fig. 158).
Then drive the lock pins into the holes in the brackets with the flat side
towards the torque rod pins.
(4) INSTALL REMAINING TORQUE RODS. Install the two remain-
ing upper torque rods into position, attaching the outer ends to the axle
brackets in the same manner as described in the preceding step. Lower
the jacks and remove them from under the rocker beam tube. Slide the
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SUSPENSION
Figure 159Adjusting Upper Torque Rod
inner ends of the two torque rods into the upper axle rod brackets and
check alinement of the holes in the torque rod eyes with the holes in
the torque rod brackets. Loosen the clamp screws on each end of these
two torque rods and turn the rod with a pipe wrench until the torque
rods line up exactly with the holes in the brackets (fig. 159). Then
tighten the clamp bolts on each end of each rod. Then install the center
torque rod pins and lock pins in the same manner as described in the
preceding step.
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Section XXXII
STEERING
v Paragraph
Adjustments 146
Steering wheel 147
Drag link 148
Steering Pitman arm 149
a. Description. The steering gear is a mechanism which controls
the direction of the front wheels through a linkage. The gear is of the
cam and twin-lever type which automatically provides a variable gear
ratio for ease of steering and stability. The cam is a worm of variable
ratio (hence the name cam) and the thread is ground slightly higher
where the straight-ahead driving action usually takes place to provide
closer adjustment of the clearance between the studs and the cam at
that point of steering action. The cam is securely held in the steering
gear housing and is supported at each end on ball bearings (fig. 160).
b. Operation. The steering gear is actuated by the steering wheel
which is under the driver's control. As the steering shaft turns the cam,
the. follower studs are pulled along the cam groove, whichTcauses the
lever arm to turn the lever shaft. The steering arm is securely clamped
to the lever shaft and so is moved by it, turning the wheels through a
linkage consisting of a drag link and tie rod.
c. Tabulated Data.
Make Ross
Model T-71
Type Roller-mounted cam and twin-lever
146. ADJUSTMENTS.
a. When making steering gear adjustments, free the gear of all
loads, preferably by disconnecting the drag link from the steering arm.
Free the jacket tube by loosening the instrument board bracket clamp.
Tighten the side cover adjusting screw (fig. 160) until a very slight
drag is felt at the mid-position when swinging the wheel slowly from
one side to the other. The gear must not bind in any position. Only
a very slight drag should be felt, and that in the mid-position. A closer
adjustment will not correct a steering condition, but will cause damage
and wear to the parts and impair operation. After the proper adjust-
ment has been made, tighten the lock nut and give the gear a final
test for binding. Make sure that the steering arm is tight on the splined
end of the lever shaft and that the lock washer and nut are tight also.
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STEERING
147. STEERING WHEEL.
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE HORN BUTTON. Remove the horn button assembly
as described in paragraph 102.
( 2 ) REMOVE STEERING WHEEL. Remove the nut holding the steer-
ing wheel on the end of the cam and wheel tube. Then using a steer-
ing wheel puller pull the steering wheel from the end of the cam and
wheel tube.
-WHEEL NUT
JACKET TUBE
LEVER SHAFT
ADJUSTING PLUG
LOCK NUT
RA PD 313829
figure 160Steering Gear Assembly
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL STEERING WHEEL. Install the steering wheel into
position on the end of the cam and wheel tube, then place a block of
wood over the steering wheel hub and strike the wood three or four
sharp blows with a hammer to seat the wheel on the hub. Install the
steering wheel nut.
(2) INSTALL HORN WIRE.
paragraph 102.
Install the horn wire as described in
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148
148. DRAG LINK.
a. Removal. Remove the cotter pins from each end of the drag
link tube. Using the offset screwdriver, back off the drag link bearing
plugs far enough so that the ball seats can be spread a sufficient amount
to permit the drag link to be removed from the balls on the steering
and Pitman arms (fig. 161). Remove drag link.
Figure 161Backing Off Drag Link Bearing Plug
b. Installation. Spread the ball seats in the ends of the drag link
so that the drag link may be installed over the balls in the steering and
Pitman arms. Then using the offset screwdriver, tighten the plugs in
each end of the drag link and back the plug off just far enough to permit
installation of the cotter pin. This adjustment must be tight enough
so that there is no looseness. Install the cotter pins through the holes
in the ends of the drag link tube, and through the slots in the adjusting
plugs to lock the adjustment.
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STEERING
149. STEERING PITMAN ARM.
a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT DRAG LINK AT STEERING PITMAN ARM. Discon-
nect the drag link from the steering Pitman arm as described in para-
graph 148.
(2) REMOVE STEERING PITMAN ARM. Remove the nut and lock
washer from the lever shaft. Using a prick punch, mark the lever shaft
and the steering Pitman arm to indicate the position of the arm on the
serrations of the lever shaft to facilitate replacement. Then remove
the steering Pitman arm, using puller (41-P-2952) (fig. 162).
Figure 162Pulling Steering Pitman Arm with Puller (41-P-2952)
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL STEERING PITMAN ARM. Install the steering Pitman
arm over the serrations on the steering gear lever shaft, lining up the
punch mark on the Pitman arm with the punch mark on the lever shaft,
to be sure that parts are assembled properly. Using a hollow mandrel,
drive Pitman arm back until it is solidly seated on the lever shaft. Then
'install the lever shaft nut and lock washer.
(2) CONNECT DRAG LINK. Connect the drag link to the steering
Pitman arm, as described in paragraph 148.
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150
Section XXXIII
FRAME AND BODIES
Paragraph
Frame 150
Cargo body 151
Wrecker body 152
Ponton body 153
Dump body 154
150. FRAME.
a. Description. The frames, as used in these vehicles, are made
up of straight steel channels 8Vi x 3 x %> inch which are rigidly held to-
gether by riveted cross members. The frame used on cargo and wreck-
er trucks is 256% inches long, the frame used on the ponton truck is
2851A inches long, and the frame used on the dump truck is 243 inches
long. All frames are 34 inches wide and are held together by six cross
members.
b. Maintenance. The frame is rigidly constructed and is not
likely to require any service attention* However, in the event of colli-
sion or any other extreme shocks, the frame may take a permanent set,
and for this reason should be checked for alinement. When checking
alinement, hang a plumb bob from the front spring hanger centers and
from the rear axle rocker beam centers, and make chalk marks on a
level floor below these points. Then move the vehicle and measure
the diagonals. If the frame is twisted or out of line, it must be repaired
or replaced. Refer to a higher authority.
c. Pintle Hook Replacement.
(1) REMOVE PINTLE COMPRESSION NUT AND WASHER. Remove
the cotter pin from the slotted compression nut and then remove the
nut and washer. It will be necessary to insert a bar through the eye
of the hook to prevent it from turning while removing the nut and
washer (fig. 163).
(2) REMOVE PINTLE HOOK FROM FRAME. Pull the pintle hook
assembly out of the rear frame cross member.
(3) REMOVE PINTLE HOOK COMPRESSION SPRING AND SPRING
RETAINER. Take out cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding pintle
brace support to the pintle hook braces, and remove support compres-
sion spring and compression spring caps.
(4) INSTALL PINTLE HOOK COMPRESSION SPRING. Install com-
pression spring caps into the compression spring with long end of both
caps facing towards front, and lift the assembly into position in the
frame, inserting short ends of the rear cap through hole in rear cross
member. Hold the assembly in this position and install pintle hook
brace support into place against the pintle hook braces, sliding long end
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FRAME AND BODIES
Figure 163Removing Pintle Hook
of the forward compression spring cap through hole in support. Attach
support to pintle hook braces with cap screws, nuts and lock washers.
(5) INSTALL PINTLE HOOK. Slide pintle hook assembly through
rear frame cross member and compression spring, and install washer
and nut on the threaded end. Insert a bar through the eye of the pintle
hook and tighten compression nut a sufficient amount to keep the hook
tight, but keep it loose enough so that it may be rotated by hand. Then
install cotter pin through the slotted compression nut.
d. Front Bumper Replacement.
(1) REMOVE FRONT Tow HOOKS. Remove the bolts, nuts and
313
if
0)
314
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150-151
FRAME AND BODIES
lock washers holding the front tow hooks to the frame rails, and re-
move the tow hooks.
(2) REMOVE FRONT BUMPER. Remove the remaining bolts, nuts
and lock washers holding the bumper to the upper and lower channel
flanges of the frame rails and pull the bumper off from the front.
(3) INSTALL FRONT BUMPER. Lift the front bumper assembly
and slide it into position over the end of the frame rails. Install the
bolts, nuts and lock washers and tighten them securely. Do not install
bolts through tow hook mounting holes (fig. 163).
(4) INSTALL FRONT Tow HOOKS. Install the jtow hooks in posi-
tion and attach with the bolts, nuts and lock washers.
151. CARGO BODY.
a. Description (fig. 164). The cargo body is made up of wooden
sections and timbers bolted together. It is equipped with bows and
tarpaulin, troop seats, a conventional type tail gate, and two tire mount-
ing brackets, which make it possible to mount the two spare tires in-
side the body at the forward end.
b. Replacement of Body Side Assemblies, Bows, End Curtains
and Tarpaulins.
(1) REMOVE TARPAULINS AND END CURTAINS. Untie the ropes
holding the tarpaulins and end curtains in place on the body and then
remove these parts.
(2) REMOVE TOP Bows. Standing inside the body, lift each top
bow assembly out of pockets on each side of the body and remove them
from the vehicle.
(3 ) REMOVE BODY SIDE ASSEMBLIES. Lift each body side assem-
bly high enough to clear the stake pockets on the sides of the body, and
remove these assemblies from the vehicle.
(4) INSTALL BODY SIDE ASSEMBLIES. Lift the body side assem-
blies into position over the stake pockets on the sides of the body and
lower them into position, seating the side assembly legs solidly in the
pockets. Be sure that the troop seats are facing in toward the body.
(5) INSTALL TOP Bows. Lift the top bows into position over the
pockets in the side assemblies and lower them into position, seating
them solidly in the side assembly pockets (fig. 164).
(6) INSTALL END CURTAINS. Raise the rear end curtain into posi-
tion inside the contour of the rear top bow. Then pull the rope from
the center eyelet in the top of the end curtain until both ends are even.
Then working from the top center eyelet, loop the rope around the
top bow again and through the next eyelet, and so on until the end of
the rope extends from the last eyelet. Then repeat this operation using
the other end of the rope and going in the other direction. Then pull
these ropes tight, center the end curtain inside the contour of the rear
top bow, and tie the ends of the ropes to the cleats at the rear corner
of the body panel. The front end curtain may then be installed in the
same manner.
315
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9-811
151
( 7 ) INSTALL TOP TARPAULIN. Lay the tarpaulin flat on the ground
with the inside of the canvas facing down, stretch it out tight and square
and pull the ropes which run through the hems in the canvas until the
same length of rope extends out of each corner. One man should then
grasp one of the hems at the middle, pinching it tightly to hold the rope
so that it cannot slip inside the hem; and another man should grasp one
end of the rope and pull it taut. The man holding the tarpaulin can
then use his free hand to shirr or gather the material at the hem by pull-
ing on it. This operation may then be repeated with the other end
of the rope stretched taut. The hem on the other end of the tarpaulin
Figure 165Tying Down Rear Tarpaulin Rope
should be shirred in the same manner. Then fold the canvas to facili-
tate installation on the vehicle. This may be easily done by folding
each side into the middle, then folding each folded edge into the
middle, and then folding the whole together. Grasp each end of the
roll and fold it to the middle. Lift the folded tarpaulin into the body
and raise it high enough so that it may be supported on the top bows
and then fold back each end toward-the front and rear of the body.
The sides may then be unfolded, rolling the canvas down to cover the
bows. The shirred ends of the canvas may then be fitted over the edges
of the top bows, as shown in figure 165. The ropes extending through
the tarpaulin hems should be pulled tight and the tarpaulin squared
316
TM 9-811
151
FRAME AND BODIES
up on the body. The hem ropes should then be looped under the cleats
on the back of the tail gate or on the front body panel, drawn all the
way across the tail gate or panel, looped under the cleat on the other
side, laced through the eyelet in the lower end of the end curtain and
tied securely to the nearest cleat. When the front and rear ends of the
tarpaulin are both tight, tie the small ropes along the lower sides of
the tarpaulin to the cleats on both side panels (fig. 165).
c. Rolling up Tarpaulin. Under ideal weather conditions, it may
be desirable to roll the tarpaulin up to permit ventilation inside the
body. To do this, untie all the tarpaulin ropes and roll up each side in
a flat roll about 8 inches across, fastening the roll in place with the
bow straps which may be buckled around the roll and to the top of the
tarpaulin. After each side of the tarpaulin has been rolled up, the end
curtains may be removed.
d. Replacement of Tire Carrier.
(1) REMOVE TIRE FROM CARRIER. Remove the tire carrier lock
and remove the nuts from the carrier studs and remove the tire.
TOOL BOXES
RA PD 313793
Figure 166Wrecker Body
(2) REMOVE TIRE CARRIER ATTACHING PARTS. Remove the bolts,
nuts and lock washers attaching the tire carrier assembly to the body..
It will be necessary to disconnect the tire carrier from the channel
bracket which extends around the top sill on the body front panel.
( 3 ) REMOVE TIRE CARRIER. The tire carrier may then be removed
by lifting it up into the body, sliding it through the top sill in the front
body panel. Then remove channel bracket.
(4 ) INSTALL TIRE CARRIER. Slide the tire carrier assembly through
the tire sill on the front body panel with the studs toward the top and
facing in toward the body. Then slide the channel bracket into posi-
tion and fasten the bracket to the tire carrier with the cap screws, nuts
and lock washers which were removed. Then install the bolts, nuts and
lock washers holding the tire carrier assembly to the front body panel.
(5) INSTALL TIRE ON CARRIER. Install the tire into position on the
tire carrier so that it rests on the floor with the studs extending through
two of the wheel nut holes. Then install the nuts over the studs and
tighten these securely. Replace the tire carrier lock.
317
318
151
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
152-154
FRAME AND BODIES
152. WRECKER BODY.
a. Description (fig. 166). The wrecker truck is equipped with
an all-steel wrecker body, two large tool boxes and a conventional-type
tail gate.
153. PONTON BODY.
a. Description (fig. 167). The ponton body is very similar to the
cargo body, except that it is longer, has four sections of troop seats
instead of two, has a front stake assembly, and has the spare tires mount-
ed on the outside of the body.
b. Replacement of Body Side Assemblies, Bows, End Curtains
ami Tarpaulin. The side assemblies, top bows, tarpaulin and end cur-
tains may be removed from and installed on the ponton in exactly the
same manner as described for the cargo body in paragraph 151, except
that there is a front stake assembly on the ponton body which must be
removed before the side assemblies are removed, and replaced after
the side assemblies are installed.
c. Replacement of Tire Carrier.
(1) REMOVE SPARE TIRES. Remove the tire locks and then re-
move the tire attaching nuts and clamps, and remove the spare tires
from the carrier.
(2) REMOVE TIRE CARRIER ASSEMBLY. Remove the bolts, nuts
and lock washers attaching the tire cafrier to the tire carrier brackets
on each side of the frame. Lift the tire carrier assembly from the
vehicle.
(3) INSTALL TIRE CARRIER ASSEMBLY. Replace the tire carrier
assembly on the brackets on the frame and bolt it into place with bolts,
nuts and lock washers.
(4) INSTALL SPARE TIRES. Lift the spare tires into position on the
carrier and fasten them in place with clamps and nuts. Then replace
tire carrier lugs.
154. DUMP BODY.
a. Description (fig. 168). The dump trucks are equipped with
an all-steel dump body, which is equipped with a cab protector on the
front end which extends over the cab roof, and a tail gate at the rear
end, which may be opened at the top or bottom.
319
320
154
TM 9-811
TM 9-811
155-157
Section XXXIV
POWER TAKE-OFF
Paragraph
Removal 156
Installation 157
a. Description. The power take-off is a conventional type take-off
mounted on the left side of the vehicle transmission, and is driven by
a gear on the transmission countershaft. It has two speeds forward and
one reverse. It is used to deliver power to the front-mounted winch
on cargo, wrecker and ponton trucks, and is controlled by the shifting
lever located inside the cab.
b. Tabulated Data.
Make Gar Wood
Model 74Y6000
Speeds Two forward, one reverse
Drive From transmission
156. REMOVAL.
a. Drain Transmission. Remove the transmission drain plug and
the lower cap screw in the power take-off rear bearing cap to drain
the oil from these units.
b. Disconnect Power Take-off Shift Rail. Remove the cotter
and clevis pins holding the yoke on the end of the shift rod to the eye
on the end of the shift rail and separate the rod from the rail.
c. Remove Power Take-off Bracket. Remove the screws holding
the floorboard on the left side of the cab and remove the floorboard.
Then take out the cap screws and lock washers holding the bracket
to the transmission and to the power take-off, and remove the bracket.
d. Disconnect Power Take-off Propeller Shaft. Disconnect the
propeller shaft from the winch at the forward end, and disconnect it
at the power take-off. Slide it forward out of the way, as described in
paragraph 113.
e. Remove Power Take-off Assembly. Remove the stud nuts and
lock washers holding the power take-off on the transmission, and re-
move the power take-off assembly. Use a pry-bar or chisel to pry the
unit off the studs (fig. 169).
f. Remove Power Take-off Adapter. The power take-off adapter
and the gaskets may be removed by sliding them from the studs.
157. INSTALLATION.
a. Install Power Take-off Adapter. Install a new adapter gasket
into position on the studs around the power take-off opening in the
transmission case, then slide the adapter assembly into position over
the studs, engaging the adapter gear with the power take-off drive gear
on the transmission countershaft.
7346190-47-21 321
TM
9-811
157
Figure 169Removing Power rake-off
Figure 170Tightening Power Take-off Mounting Stud Nuts
322
TM 9-811
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POWER TAKE-OFF
b. Install Power Take-off Assembly. Install a new gasket over
the studs and against the adapter, lift the power take-off assembly into
position and push it over the studs. Replace the stud nuts and lock
washers which were removed, and tighten them gradually to avoid
any strain on the power take-off housing (fig. 170).
c. Replace Power Take-off Propeller Shaft. Slide the propeller
shaft back into position and connect it to the power take-off driven
shaft, then connect the slip joint end to the winch worm shaft, as de-
d. Install Power Take-off Bracket. Work the power take-off
bracket into position, and attach it to the transmission and power take-
off with the cap screws and lock washers.
e. Connect Shifting Linkage. Swing the power take-off shift rod
into position so that the yoke lines up with the eye on the end of the
shift rail, then install cotter and clevis pins.
f. Add Lubricant. Replace the transmission drain plug and the
lower cap screw in the power take-off rear bearing cap, and add the
required amount of lubricant (par. 26).
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TM 9-811
158
Section XXXV
FRONT-MOUNTED WINCH
Paragraph
Brake adjustments 159
Removal 160
Installation 161
Cable replacement 162
Shear pin replacement 163
a. Description (fig. 171). A winch is mounted between the frame
side rails at the front of the cargo, wrecker and ponton trucks. It is
driven from the power take-off mounted on the transmission, and is
controlled by a shifting lever in the cab.
^^^^ GEAR BOX
DRUM
JAW CLUTCH
BRAKE COVER
WINCH CLUTCH SHIFT
HANDLE
RA PD 304992
Figure 171Winch Assembly
b. Tabulated Data.
Make Gar Wood
Model 3U-615
Assembly No 22Y6337
Drive Power take-off from transmission
Worm reduction 29 to 1
Diameter of drum 6 in.
324
TM 9-811
158-159
FRONT-MOUNTED WINCH
Winding speeds (first layer of rope with^ engine at
1000 rpm):
High range 55 ft per min
Low range 30 ft per min
Cable:
Length 300 ft
Diameter % in.
Capacity 15,000 Ib
RA PD 303735
Figure 172Adjusting Worm Shaft Brake
159. BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS.
a. Worm Shaft Brake Adjustment.
(1) A brake on the worm shaft is used to hold the load while the
power take-off is in neutral. If the load slips when the take-off is in
neutral, or when the shear pin has failed, the tension of the brake spring
can be increased by tightening the adjusting nut on the under side
of the case.
(2) Tighten the adjusting nut one-half turn, and then tighten the
check nut. Test the brake, and, if it is still too loose, tighten the nut by
half turns until the correct adjustment is obtained (fig. 172).
325
TM 9-811
159-160
(3) Even with the brake correctly adjusted the brake case will
heat somewhat, and smoke may be noticed due to burning oil on the
brake lining. However, if the hand cannot be held on the case, the
brake is too tight. It will then be necessary to loosen the adjusting nut
and to test again.
b. Drag Brake Adjustment. There is a drag brake which is ap-
plied whenever the winch clutch is disengaged. Its function is to keep
the drum from unreeling unless there is a pull on the cable, and to keep
the cable from backlashing. To adjust it, loosen the lock nut and turn
the adjusting nut to secure the proper tension on the drum (fig. 173).
DRAG BRAKE ADJUSTING
Figure 173Adjusting Winch Drag Brake
Make this adjustment with winch clutch disengaged. If the brake
spring is broken or has taken a set, it must be replaced. When ad-
justment is complete, tighten the lock nut.
160. REMOVAL.
a. Remove Front Bumper. Remove the front bumper.
b. Disconnect Propeller Shaft from Winch. Disconnect the pro-
peller shaft from the winch, as described in paragraph 111.
c. Remove Winch Assembly. Remove the cap screws, nuts and
lock washers holding the winch frame to the frame rail brackets. Then
swing a chain around the winch assembly and lift it on a hoist just
326
TM 9-811
160-161
FRONT-MOUNTED WINCH
Figure 174Removing Winch
enough to lift away from the frame brackets (fig. 174). Then slide it
out towards the front.
161. INSTALLATION.
a. Install Winch Assembly. Lift the winch assembly on a hoist
and line it up in position in front of the truck with the gear box on the
left side of the vehicle, then slide it in towards the truck so that the
winch frame slides over the supporting brackets. Line up the mounting
holes and drop the winch assembly into place. Install the cap screws,
nuts and lock washers which were removed to attach the winch assem-
bly to the frame brackets.
327
TM 9-811
161-162
b. Connect Winch Propeller Shatt. Connect the winch propeller
shaft, as described in paragraph 112.
c. Install Front Bumper. Replace the front bumper on the ve-
hicle, as described in paragraph 150.
162. CABLE REPLACEMENT.
a. Removal. Unhook the end of the winch cable from the tow
hooks on the bumper and then release the winch clutch and pull the
Figure 175Clamping End of Cable in Drum
cable out from the drum until the end is reached. Then loosen the
clamping nuts from the threaded ends of the U-bolts holding the cable
in the drum and pull the end of the cable out of the U-bolt eye. After
the cable is removed, unscrew the clamp nut at the end of the cable
and remove the chain and hook from the cable.
b. Installation. Stretch a new cable out in front of the vehicle
,to get rid of all twists and kinks. It is best to do this on a clean surface
such as would be afforded by a hard-surfaced roadway. Then install
the chain and hook on the end of the cable, using a special clamping
nut which was removed from the old cable. Take the other end of the
cable and run it underneath the bumper, through the brush guard
brace under the winch, and around the winch drum and then insert
328
TM 9-811
162-163
FRONT-MOUNTED WINCH
it through the U-bolt eye on the side of the drum. Tighten the U-bolt
nuts (fig. 175). The end of the cable should extend about an inch
through the U-bolt. Then start the engine, engage the power take-off
and wind the cable onto the drum. The cable should be under load
while it is being wound. This can be done by hooking onto it another
vehicle while winding or with a special brake winding fixture. Guide
the cable as it is being wound. Be sure that the layers are flat and
tight. After the drum is full, loop the end of the chain around the tow
hook on one side of the bumper and then run the hook across the
bumper and loop it over the other tow hook. Tighten the cable gradu-
ally under power, but only take up the slack, and do not continue
tightening long enough to damage the winch or the vehicle.
163. SHEAR PIN REPLACEMENT.
a. Remove Broken Shear Pin. Loosen the set screw in the pro-
peller shaft slip joint stop collar, and slide it back on the shaft so that
CLEARANCE
STOP COLLAR
SOCKET HEAD SET SCREW
PIN
RA PD 303731
Figure 176Shear Pin Installation
the slip joint can be moved back far enough to disconnect the universal
joint from the winch worm shaft. Then drive the broken piece of the
shear pin from the winch worm shaft and from the universal joint yoke,
using a hammer and drift punch (fig. 176).
b. Install New Shear Pin. Slide the slip joint and universal joint
assembly forward, and install it over the end of the winch worm shaft,
lining up the holes in the universal joint yoke hub and the worm shaft.
Then drive a new shear pin through these holes and install a cotter pin
over the other end.
c. Check Cause of Shear Pin Failure. If the shear pin fails, it is
an indication that the winch has been overloaded and steps must be
taken to lighten the load, unless heavier equipment is available which
can do the job. Do not use substitute shear pins of unknown strength,
as to do so may cause a winch or cable failure which might result in
serious damage to equipment or injury to the personnel.
329
TM 9-811
164
SWIVEL CLAMP WASHER
WELDED FRAME ASSEMBLY
CLAMP BOLT FOR SMALL TANK
CLAMP BOLT FOR LARGE TANK
OUTBOARD LEG SWIVEL
MAST SHEAVE SHAFT
SERVICE CABLE
SERVICE DRUM
PINION SHAFT TUBE (BUSHED)
BRAKE SPRING
BRAKE SPRING ROD
SERVICE DRUM SHAFT
DRUM SHAFT ANCHOR WASHER
COUPLING CENTER DISK
FLANGED COUPLING HUB
TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY
TRANSMISSION SHAFT SPROCKET
R DRUM PINION SHAFT
S DRUM PINION STOP WASHER
T OUTBOARD LEG (EXTERNAL)
U PULL GRIP
V OUTBOARD LEG LOCK PIN
W OUTBOARD LEG LOCK SPRING
X OUTBOARD LEG (INTERNAL)
Y OUTBOARD LEG CHAIN
Z OPERATING LEVER KNUCKLE
AA SPACER TUBE
AB REMOTE CLUTCH OPERATING LEVER
AC ROLLER CHAIN
AD TAPER SPROCKET
Al IDLER SPROCKET
AF IDLER BRACKET ASSEMBLY
A6 OPERATING ROD RA pD 3]3776
Figure 177Wrecker Crane, Front View
330
TM 9-811
164-166
Section XXXVI
WRECKER
Paragraph
Description 164
Transmission roller chain 165
Wrecker transmission linkage adjustment 166
Wrecker transmission 167
Wrecker boom cable replacement 168
Wrecker winch cable replacement 169
Outboard brace leg replacement 170
Sheave replacement 171
164. DESCRIPTION (figs. 177 and 178).
a. The wrecker assembly consists of the wrecker transmission, two
winches, two booms, two winch cables, two boom cables and the neces-
sary sheaves to guide the cables. It is a unit assembly and is mounted
on brackets attached to the frame rails. It may be replaced as a unit
or the individual parts may be replaced separately.
165. TRANSMISSION ROLLER CHAIN.
a. Removal. Remove the two cotter pins from the roller chain
connecting link, and remove the connecting link lock plate. The con-
necting link may then be pulled from the chain, thus breaking the chain.
The roller chain may then be pulled from the sprocket wheels.
b. Installation. Install the roller chain into position wrapping it
around the wrecker transmission sprocket and the transfer case power
take-off sprocket with the idler sprocket outside the loop (fig. 179).
Then bring the two ends of the chain together and install the connect-
ing link, lock plate and cotter pins.
c. Roller Chain Adjustment. The tension on the roller chain is
adjusted by means of the sliding idler sprocket. This is done by loosen-
ing the four bolts clamping the idler adjusting channel to the base
channel and then sliding the idler sprocket forward or backward to
obtain the proper chain tension (fig. 179). The idler should be moved
up against the chain to give about Va-inch deflection on the side oppo-
site the idler. After the adjustment is completed, tighten the clamping
bolts and recheck the adjustment. Never attempt to adjust the roller
chain while it is running.
166. WRECKER TRANSMISSION LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT.
a. The wrecker transmission linkage has a slot-type adjustment in
the arms connecting the control levers to the actuating levers. These
arms should be adjusted to a proper length to hold the control handles
in horizontal positions. To make this adjustment, loosen the clamping
screws, then support the control handle horizontally and tighten the
screws. It is seldom necessary to make this adjustment. It will be
necessary when replacing an old or installing a new transmission, or
if the original adjustment works loose.
331
TM 9-811
166
969A WRECKER, 970A PONTON. AND 972 DUMP)
AC
STIFF LEG ANCHOR BOLT
0" x 9")
MAST SHEAVE YOKE
SHEAVE.WHEEL (BUSHED)
MAST SHEAVE SHAFT
MAST CABLE GUIDE
BOOM LOCK ASSEMBLY
WIRE ROPE CLAMP
BOOM CABLE ANCHOR
YOKE
SHEAVE WHEEL (BUSHED)
BOOM SHEAVE SHAFT
BOOM SHEAVE YOKE
SWIVEL CLAMP PLATE
STIFF LEG CHANNEL
BLOCK
STIFF LEG
BOOM ASSEMBLY
PULL GRIP
BOOM END CABLE GUIDE
BOOM LOCK PIN
CABLE HOOK (NO. 28)
WIRE ROPE THIMBLE
WIRE ROPE CLAMP
V SNATCH BLOCK SHEAVE
W SNATCH BLOCK SHEAVE
SHAFT
X SNATCH BLOCK FRAME
Y SNATCH BLOCK HOOK
WASHER
Z SNATCH BLOCK HOOK
(NO. 11)
AA BOOM DRUM RATCHET
WHEEL SHAFT
AB BOOM DRUM PINION
AC SET COLLAR ON
RATCHET WHEEL SHAFT
AD BOOM DRUM SHAFT
AE BOOM DRUM
AF STIFF LEG BOLSTER
U BOLT
A6 STIFF LEG BOLSTER
SADDLE BLOCK
AH STIFF LEG BOLSTER
ASSEMBLY
Al BOOM CABLE
AJ BOLSTER TIE PLATE
TM 9-811
167
WRECKER
167. WRECKER TRANSMISSION.
a. Description. The wrecker transmission is a double worm
wheel type in which each worm is controlled independently of the
other. This is accomplished by means of four loose gears riding on the
two worm shafts, which are in constant mesh with the main shaft pin-
ions and drive only when the sliding clutch hubs are engaged.
b. Removal.
(1) REMOVE ROLLER CHAIN. Remove the roller chain as de-
Figure 179Locking Idler Sprocket Clamp
(2 ) REMOVE GEAR CASE COVER. Remove the single bolt at the top
of the gear case cover and then lift the cover from the transmission
case.
(3) REMOVE THE WORM WHEELS. Remove the cap screws hold-
ing the bearing blocks in place and remove the blocks. Then lift the
worm wheels out, one at a time, being sure not to lose the coupling cen-
ter disk at the outer end of each worm wheel shaft (fig. 180).
(4) DISCONNECT THE FORWARD ENDS OF THE TRANSMISSION OP-
ERATING LINKS. Remove the cotter and clevis pins from the forward
ends of the transmission operating links and disconnect the links from
the operating levers.
333
TM 9-811
167
(5) REMOVE TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY. Remove the cap screws,
nuts, lock washers and wedges holding the transmission case to the
base assembly and remove the transmission case.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL TRANSMISSION CASE ON BASE FRAME. Lift the trans-
mission case into place on the base frame with the drive sprocket facing
towards the front of the vehicle and then line up the mounting holes
Figure 180Removing Worm Wheel Assemblies
with the holes in the base frame. Install bolts, nuts, lock washers and
wedges.
(2) CONNECT TRANSMISSION OPERATING LINKS. Connect the for-
ward ends of the operating links to the operating levers and install
cotter and clevis pins.
(3) INSTALL WORM WHEELS. Install coupling center disk on one
of the transmission worm wheel couplings. Then lower the assembly
into place, engaging the slot in the center disk with the tongue on the
coupling on the end of the pinion shaft, and seating the worm shaft
bushings in place in the transmission case. Repeat this operation with
334
TM 9-811
167-168
WRECKER
the other worm wheel. Then install the transmission bearing blocks
and attach them in place with cap screws.
(4) INSTALL GEAR CASE COVER. Install the gear case cover on top
of the transmission, using a new gasket. Then install the single top
bolt and tighten it securely.
168. WRECKER BOOM CABLE REPLACEMENT.
a. Lower the Boom. Swing the boom out at right angles to the
body and then, using the operating crank, lower it until it is supported
in a horizontal position on any convenient object.
Figure 181Installing Boom Cable Over Mast Sheave
b. Disconnect Cable Clamps. Remove the nuts from the cable
clamp U-bolts and then remove the U-bolts and clamps from the end
of the boom cable which is hooked to the boom cable anchor yoke,
Then spread the ends of the cable and pull it away from the anchor
yoke: It is not necessary to remove the thimble from the yoke.
c. Remove Boom Drum. Remove the cotter pin from the boom
drum shaft and drive the shaft out of the boom pivot housing, using
a hammer and punch. After the shaft is knocked out, the punch will
support the boom drum. As the punch is withdrawn, the boom drum,
ratchet pawl, and spring may be removed.
d. Remove Cable. Loosen the U-bolt cable clamp on the side of
the boom drum and disconnect the end of the cable from the drum.
Then pull the cable from the boom and mast sheaves.
335
TM 9-811
168
e. Install New Cable.
(1) Loop the end of the cable over the thimble on the anchor yoke
and double it back about 12 inches and install the three cable clamps
which were removed, being sure to tighten the U-bolt nuts securely
(fig. 295).
(2) Run the other end of the cable back to the crane and install
it over the inside mast sheave from the bottom and run it through the
cable guide as it comes over the top of the sheave (fig. 181).' Pull the
Figure 182Installing Boom Cable Over Boom Sheave
cable through the sheave until it is stretched tight between the boom
and the crane.
(3) Then run the end of the cable back to the end of the boom
and install it over the inside boom sheave from the top, and then double
it back along the length of the boom. Do not pass it through the cable
guide (fig. 182). Pull the cable over the sheave until it is tight between
the crane and the boom.
(4) Attach the end of the cable to the boom drum. Place the boom
drum on the ground with the gear end away from the operator and
then run the end of the cable under the U-bolt clamp from the right-
hand side for the left-hand boom and from the left-hand side for the
right-hand boom. The end of the cable should extend two inches through
the U-bolt and then the U-bolt nuts should be tightened securely.
336
337
168
TM 9-811
WRECKER
734619 O - 47 - i
Figure 1 S3Installing Boom Drum
Figure 184Installing Cable Clamp
TM 9-811
168-169
(5 ) Lift the boom drum and install it in position in the boom pivot
housing, engaging the drum gear with the pinion gear on the ratchet
shaft. Then drive the drum shaft through the boom pivot housing and
through the drum until the cotter pin in the head end of the shaft is
up against the pivot housing (fig. 183). Then install the ratchet pawl
and spring over the end of the drum shaft. After the pawl is in place,
install a cotter pin through the hole in the end of the drum shaft.
(6) Using the hand operating crank, wind the boom cable in on
the boom drum guiding it by hand to get an even lay to the cable.
303774
Figure 185Installing Winch Cable Over Boom Sheave
169. WRECKER WINCH CABLE REPLACEMENT.
a. Remove Wrecker Winch Cable. Grasp the end of the wrecker
winch cable, completely unwinding it from the drum, then loosen the
U-bolt cable clamp on the drum and remove the cable. Pull the cable
from the sheaves.
b. Remove Hook from Cable. Remove the coupling nuts from
the cable clamp and then slide the nuts up along the cable and remove
the halves of the clamp. The end of the cable may then be pulled off
the thimble and through the eye of the hook. It is not necessary to re-
move the thimble from the hook. Remove coupling nuts from cable.
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WRECKER
e. Install New Cable on Hook. Slide the two coupling nuts over
the end of the new cable with the flat sides facing each other, then
run the end of the cable through the eye of the hook and fold it back
over the thimble. Clamp the end of the cable against the cable at the
end of the eye, and slide the lower coupling nut down as far is it will
go. Install the two halves of the cable clamp and tighten the two coup-
ling nuts over the threads of the clamp (fig. 184).
Figure 186Installing Winch Cable Over Mast Sheave
d. Install Winch Cable.
(1) Run the end of the cable through the cable guide on the end
of the boom and over the top of the outer boom sheave, then pull it
back to the crane (fig. 185). Run it through the outer hole in the mast
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TM 9-811
169
cable guide, over the outer mast sheave, and then down through the
opening in the top of the wrecker frame (fig. 186). Then pull the end
of the cable down and engage it in the U-bolt eye of the winch drum
Figure 187Winding Cable Onto winch Drum
cable clamp. The winch drum should be turned so that the U-bolt
clamp is facing toward the rear of the vehicle, then the cable is pulled
straight down and installed through the U-bolt eye. Adjust the cable
so that it extends about an inch through the U-bolt, and tighten the
U-bolt nuts securely.
340
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WRECKER
(2 ) WIND CABLE ONTO DRUM. Stretch the cable out in back of the
truck and hook it on to a light load. Then, using the hand operating
crank, wind the cable onto the drum while guiding it with a pair of
hands, as shown in figure 187. The man guiding the cable should wear
gloves to avoid cutting his hands on sharp strands on the cable. As the
layers of the cable approach the edges of the drum, cranking should
be done very slowly so that a pry bar may be used to force the layers
Figure 188Using Pry Bar to Force Layers of Cable Close Together
of cable close together to get a good tight wind (fig. 188). When the
cable has been wound far enough onto the drum, engage the pinion gear
with the drum gear to hold it in position.
(3 ) Grasp the eye of the drag brake arm with one hand and pull
it out until the opening at the inner end of the eye is spread far enough
so that the cable may be slid through it, then release the arm with the
cable running through the brake arm eye. Hook the end of the cable
on the body bolster ring and wind the cable tight to secure the boom
in a rigid position.
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170. OUTBOARD BRACE LEG REPLACEMENT.
a. Disconnect Brace Leg Chain. Unhook the brace leg chain from
the brace leg rest on the wrecker crane.
b. Remove Brace Leg. Remove one cotter pin from the brace
leg pivot pin, and drive the pin out of the pivot bracket, using a hammer
and punch (fig. 189). The punch will support the brace leg as the pin
is removed. When the punch is taken out, brace leg may be removed.
Figure 189Driving Out Brace Leg Pivot Pin
c. Replace Brace Leg. Lift the brace leg into position in the pivot
bracket, and drive the pivot pin through the holes in the bracket and
the upper end of the leg. Then install a cotter 'pin through the hole in
the end of the pin to hold it in place.
d. Install Brace Leg Chain. Swing the brace leg into position
against the brace leg rest on the crane and wrap the chain around it
and hook it into position.
171. SHEAVE REPLACEMENT.
a. General. The sheave assemblies are supported on the mast
and on the end of the booms, loosely mounted in mast or boom tubes.
The sheaves are held in place by the load on the cables, therefore no
fasteners are required. To replace the sheaves proceed as in the follow-
ing steps.
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WRECKER
b. Remove Cables from Sheaves. Using the hand crank, lower
the boom so that it rests on the body or any other convenient object.
Disconnect the cable clamps at the end of the boom cable which is
attached to the anchor yoke on the end of the boom and pull the cable
from the sheaves. Remove the hook from the end of the winch cable
and pull the winch cable from the sheaves.
c. Replace Sheave. The boom or mast sheave assembly may then
be lifted from the end of the boom or from the top of the mast, and the
new sheave assembly dropped into place. When replacing mast sheave,
it will be necessary to turn the assembly so that the shoulder on the
sheave lines up with the slot in the crane (fig. 190).
Figure 190Removing Mast Sheave Assembly
d. Install Cables. Run the cables over the sheaves, attach the
boom cable to the anchor yoke on the end of the boom, and attach the
winch cable to the hook which was removed.
e. Raise Boom. Using a hand operating crank, raise the boom to
traveling position, hook it on to the other boom, hook the winch cable
to the body bolster ring, and tighten the cable.
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4-TON, 6x6 TRUCKS. (DIAMOND T MODELS 968A CARGO,
Section XXXVII
WRECKER AIR COMPRESSOR
Paragraph
Description 172
Removal 173
Installation 174
Engine replacement 175
Air compressor replacement. 176
172. DESCRIPTION.
a. Two different types of air compressors are used with the
wrecker. One being manufactured by De Vilbiss and the other by
Kellogg. Each of these compressors is driven by a single-cylinder, four-
stroke cycle gasoline engine manufactured by Briggs and Stratton.
The engine drives the air compressor through a V-belt. The air com-
pressor is furnished as a unit, and is mounted on top of the wrecker
body immediately back of the crane (figs. 28 and 29).
173. REMOVAL.
a. Remove Spare Tire. Remove the spare tire mounted on the
wrecker crane. Remove the spare tire lock, and take off the mounting
nuts. Remove the spare tire from the bracket on the frame, and lay it
on top of the other spare tire which is attached to the floor of the
wrecker body.
b. Remove Air Compressor Unit. Remove the mounting cap
screws, nuts and lock washers from the legs on the bottom of the air
reservoir (fig. 191). Then slide air compressor unit out from under
the crane brace legs far enough to swing a chain around it, then lift it
with a hoist and lower it to the ground.
174. INSTALLATION.
a. Install Air Compressor Unit. Lift the air compressor unit on
a hoist and swing it into position on the body. Slide it under the
wrecker crane brace legs and line up the mounting holes in the legs
of the reservoir tank with the mounting holes on the body. Install the
cap screws, nuts and lock washers.
b. Replace Spare Tire. Install the spare tire on the mounting
bracket studs on the wrecker crane and replace the stud nuts. Install
the spare tire lock.
175. ENGINE REPLACEMENT.
a. Remove Belt. Remove the drive belt between the engine pulley
and the air compressor flywheel.
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TM 9-811
175
b. Remove Engine. Remove the cap screws, nuts and lock
washers holding the engine assembly in place on top of the reservoir
tank, and lift the engine assembly from the unit (fig. 192).
c. Install Engine. Install the engine into position on top of the
reservoir tank and install the cap screws, nuts and lock washers. Do
not tighten the can screws.
Figure 191Removing Air Compressor Unit Mounting Bolts
d. Install Drive Belt. Install the drive belt over the groove in
the air compressor flywheel in the drive pulley on the engine.
e. Tighten Engine Mountings. Line up the engine pulley with
the air compressor flywheel groove so that the belt is in true alinement,
345
TM 9-811
175-176
then move the engine away from the air compressor the proper distance
to get correct belt adjustment. The belt should deflect about 1 inch
when the adjustment is correct. Hold the engine in this position and
tighten the mounting cap screws. Then check adjustment.
RA,PD 303611
Figure 192Removing Air Compressor Engine
176. AIR COMPRESSOR REPLACEMENT.
a. Disconnect Air Lines. .Disconnect the air lines from the air
compressor cylinder head.
346
TM 9-811
176
b. Remove Drive Belt. Remove the drive belt between the air
compressor flywheel and the engine drive pulley.
c. Remove Air Compressor. Remove the air compressor mount-
ing cap screws, nuts and lock washers, and remove the air compressor
from the unit (fig. 193).
Figure 193Removing Air Compressor, Kellogg
d. Install Air Compressor. Install the air compressor in place
on top of the reservoir tank, and replace the cap screws, nuts and lock
washers. Do not tighten the cap screws.
e. Install Drive Belt. Install the drive belt over the air com-
pressor flywheel and the drive pulley on the engine.
347
TM 9-811
176
f. Tighten Air Compressor Mounting Screws. Shift the air
compressor in the mounting slots on top of the reservoir to obtain proper
belt alinement and proper belt tension. The belt should deflect about
1 inch for proper adjustment. When the alinement and adjustment
are correct, hold air compressor in place, tighten the mounting cap
screws, then check adjustment again.
g. Connect Air Lines. Connect the air lines to the air compressor
cylinder head.
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177
Section XXXVIII
DUMP PUMP AND HOIST
Paragraph
Hoist assembly 178
Pump assembly 179
a. Description (fig. 194). The pump and hoist assembly is used
on the dump trucks and is the conventional hydraulic type. The pump
and hoist are bolted together in a unit assembly. The pump is driven
through a drive shaft from the power take-off on the end of the trans-
fer main shaft. The pump valve is controlled by a lever inside the cab.
In operation, fluid is delivered from the pump to the cylinder forcing
the piston rod out to raise the body.
BODY TRUNNION
RA-PD 313824
Figure 194Pump and Hoist Installation
b. Tabulated Data.
Make Gar Wood
Model SA-7
Pump assembly GW-A12-588-A4R
Cylinder assembly GW-A37-862-15
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TM 9-811
178
178. HOIST ASSEMBLY,
a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT BODY STOP SPRING. Cut the wire holding the
body stop spring to the rear frame cross member.
(2) RAISE AND BLOCK BODY. Raise the body just high enough to
permit the installation of two 4x4 braces, about 6 feet long, between
the torque rod and brackets, and the second cross member under the
dump body (fig. 196). Do not raise the body too high, as the automatic
stop has been disconnected. Insert the brace in position and then lower
the body so that the brace takes the load.
Figure 195Lifting Hoist Trunnion Out of Frame Sockets
(3) DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Disconnect the dump pump
propeller shaft, as described in paragraph 111.
(4) DISCONNECT PUMP VALVE CONTROL CABLE. Remove the cot-
ter pin and clevis pin holding the yoke at the end of the valve control
cable to the valve control lever on the pump. Then remove the two
nuts and lock washers from the U-bolt holding the control cable
assembly to the mounting bracket on the pump, and swing the cable to
one side.
(5) DISCONNECT HOIST CYLINDER PISTON ROD. Place valve con-
trol lever on pump at holding position. Remove the nut and lock
washer from the cross head bolt on the end of the cylinder piston rod
and then remove the bolt (fig. 194). It will be necessary to hold the
350
TM 9-811
178
DUMP PUMP AND HOIST
hoist assembly so that it does not fall down. Then shift the valve con-
trol lever on the pump to the release position to allow the piston rod
to move down into the cylinder. When the piston rod is clear of the
body cross head, pull it forward and lower it in a horizontal position
so that it rests on 2 x 4 across the frame in front of the hoist trunnion.
Figure 196Dump Body Blocked, Hoist Removed
(6) REMOVE HOIST ASSEMBLY. Remove cap screws, lock washers
and flat washers from the ends of the trunnion journals through the
holes in the frame rails and then remove the spacers. Then remove
the hoist trunnion tie bolts, nuts and lock washers from the hoist trun-
nion brackets (fig. 194). Push down on the piston rod to raise the trun-
nion journals from the sockets in the frame. Support the rear end of
the hoist cylinder on another 2x4 across the frame (fig. 195). Remove
the bolt, nut and lock washer from one of the lift arm collars and then
351
TM 9-811
178
remove collar. Remove tension link which was disconnected when lift
arm collar was removed. Then remove hoist assembly from chassis.
b. Installation.
(1) PLACE HOIST ASSEMBLY IN CHASSIS. Lift the hoist assembly
into position on top of the frame and lay it flat with the trunnion point-
ing towards the rear of the truck. Install the ends of the connecting
links over the trunnion journals and install the lift arm collar (fig. 197).
Then work it into position so that the trunnion journals drop into their
Figure 197Installing Lift Arm Collar
seats in the sockets in the frame rails and the cylinder is resting on the
frame cross member. Install the clamp bolts, nuts and lock washers in
the hoist trunnion brackets to hold the journals in place. Install the
spacers against the trunnion journals through the openings in the frame
rails, and install cap screws, plain washers and lock washers.
(2) CONNECT PISTON ROD TO CROSS HEAD. Lift the hoist assem-
bly into a vertical position and release the valve control lever on the
pump so that the piston rod may be pulled out (fig. 198). Tip the as-
sembly back and line up the piston rod in the cross head and install
the bolt, nut and lock washer, then turn valve control lever on the pump
to the hold position.
(3) CONNECT CONTROL CABLE. Connect the yoke from the end
352
TM 9-811
178-179
DUMP PUMP AND HOIST
of the control cable to the valve lever on the pump, using a cotter and
clevis pin, then attach the cable assembly to the bracket on the pump
with the U-bolt, nuts and lock washers (fig. 199).
(4) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Connect the propeller shaft be-
tween the transfer power take-off and the dump pump, as described in
paragraph 112.
Figure 198Tipping Hoist Cylinder Back
(5) LOWER BODY. Raise the body just high enough to permit the
removal of the 4x4 braces, and lower it until it rests on frame rails.
(6) CONNECT BODY STOP SPRING. Wire the body stop spring to
the rear frame cross member.
179. PUMP ASSEMBLY,
a. Removal.
(1) Raise the body, and block it in a raised position. Remove the
hoist cylinder drain plug and drain the oil.
(2 ) Disconnect the pump valve control cable, as described in para-
graph 178.
734619 0-47-23
353
TM 9-811
179
(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft between the pump and the
transfer power take-off, as described in paragraph 111.
(4) Disconnect the high-pressure pipe running between the pump
and the cylinder at the pump.
(5) REMOVE PUMP. Remove the cap screws and lock washers
holding the pump to the cylinder manifold assembly and remove the
pump and pump gasket.
Figure 199Installing Control Cable Clamp U-Bolt
b. Installation.
(1) Install the pump and gasket in position on the cylinder mani-
fold assembly and replace with cap screws and lock washers which
were removed. Use a new gasket.
(2) Connect the high-pressure pipe running between the pump
and the cylinder to the pump.
(3) Connect the propeller shaft between the power take-off on
the transfer and the pump, as described in paragraph 112.
(4) Connect the pump valve control cable to the valve lever on
the pump, as described in paragraph 178.
(5) Add oil to cylinder (par. 24).
(6) Remove braces and lower the body.
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TM 9-811
180
Section XXXIX
CAB
Paragraph
Description 180
Cab tarpaulins and side curtains 181
Seat cushions and backrests 182
Windshield 183
Windshield wipers 184
180. DESCRIPTION.
a. General. Four ton, 6x6 vehicles are supplied with both closed
and open type cabs.
b. Open Type Cab (fig. 200). The open type cab is equipped
with a canvas top and side curtains, and has a seating capacity for three
persons. The windshield may be lowered on the side pivots until it
rests flat on top of the cowl, and then locked in position with the wind-
shield latch on the hood center panel.
c. Closed Type Cab. The closed type cab has a split "V"
windshield, each half of which may be opened for ventilation. The
RA PD 304061
Figure 200Cab Assembly, Open Type
355
TM 9-811
180-181
windows in each door may also be lowered. There are ventilators on
top of the cowl, on the cowl sides, and on the cab top. The ventilator
on top of the cab is equipped with a filter to clean the air and is the
automatic exhaust and intake type.
181. CAB TARPAULINS AND SIDE CURTAINS,
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE SIDE CURTAINS. Unfasten the three strap and loop
fasteners holding the side curtains to the top tarpaulin and to the cowl
Figure 20?Lacing Rear Tarpaulin to Cab Rear Panel
and door. Then open the cab door and lift the side curtain support rod
out of its seat in the top of the door panel, and then i ;,nove the sup-
port rod from the side curtain (fig. 204). Then grab the side curtain
at its forward edge and pull it down to disconnect the side curtain bead
from the slotted tube at the edge of the windshield. Repeat this opera-
tion for the other side curtain.
(2) REMOVE TOP TARPAULIN. Unfasten the two strap and loop
fasteners holding the top tarpaulin to the rear tarpaulin. Untie the top
tarpaulin holding ropes from the grab handles on the sides of the cab
(fig. 203). Unhook the rope from the hook in back of the cab. Then
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TM 9-811
181
CAB
move the-top tarpaulin forward as far as possible and drape it over
the engine hood. Unfasten the two strap and loop fasteners holding the
tarpaulin to the top edge of the windshield, then grasp the tarpaulin
along one edge and pull it out from the cab to disengage the bead on
the front end of the tarpaulin from the slotted tube on top of the wind-
shield (fig. 202).
(3 ) ROLL UP REAR TARPAULIN. Untie each end of the rope, lacing
the back tarpaulin to the hooks along the top of the rear cab panel, then
slip the rope loose from each hook (fig. 201). Disconnect the strap
and loop fasteners holding the bottom corners of the tarpaulin to the
Figure 202Installing Cab Top Tarpaulin
cab side panels. Fold the outer edges of the tarpaulin against the inner
side, and roll the tarpaulin up with the ropes and folded edges inside
the roll. Make a tight roll and strap it to the cab tarpaulin support
tube with the straps which are attached to the tube.
(4) LOWER CAB SUPPORT TUBE. Loosen the wing nuts at each
rear corner of the cab side panels, then push the support tube down
into the cab as far as it will go, and tighten the wing nuts to keep the
assembly from rattling.
b. Installation.
(1) RAISE TARPAULIN SUPPORT TUBE. Loosen the wing nuts on
the body side panels which clamp the support tube in place and pull
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TM
9-811
181
it up as high as it will go, that is, until the cotter pins through the ends
of the tube contact the support loop. Tighten the wing nuts again.
(2) INSTALL CAB REAR TARPAULIN. Unstrap the roll-up straps
holding the rear tarpaulin to the top of the support tube, and unfold
the canvas. Straighten the canvas out, and hook the loops in the rope
laced through the bottom edge of the tarpaulin over the hooks on the
inside of the cab rear panel. Pull the lacing rope tight and stretch the
canvas taut (fig. 201). Then tie the ends of the ropes to the tarpaulin
support tube. Pull the lower edges of the tarpaulin around the corners
Figure 203Tying Top Tarpaulin Ropes to Grab Handles
of the cab and fasten the canvas to the cab side panel with the strap
and loop fasteners in each corner of the canvas.
(3) INSTALL TOP TARPAULIN. Drape the top tarpaulin upside-
down on top of the engine hood, with the bead on it facing towards the
windshield. Then insert one end of the tarpaulin bead through the
slotted tube on top of the windshield and pull the canvas through until
it is centered on the windshield (fig. 202 ). Grasp the rear edge of the
tarpaulin and swing it back over the cab, drape it over the cab support
tube, and hook the loop in the middle of the tarpaulin rope to the hook
on back of the rear cab panel. Connect the two strap and loop fasten-
ers holding the front corners of the tarpaulin to the top of the wind-
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TM 9-811
181
CAB
shield frame, and connect the strap and loop fasteners attaching the
top tarpaulin to the upper corners of the rear tarpaulin. Pull the top
tarpaulin ropes tight, stretch the canvas evenly, and tie the ends of
the ropes to the grab handles on the cab side panels (fig. 203).
(4) INSTALL SIDE CURTAINS. The side curtains are different for
the right and left sides of the cab. To determine which is which, hold
curtain up against the side of the cab with the bead edge alongside the
windshield, and with the straps for the strap and loop fasteners facing
out. If this cannot be done, the side curtain belongs on the other side.
Hold the side curtain in position and then lower it alongside the cab
Figure 204Installing Side Curtain Support Rod
door until the end of the bead can be inserted into the slotted tube at
the edge of the windshield frame, then raise it as high as it will go,
sliding the bead into the tube. When it is in position, fasten the strap
and loop fasteners, attaching the forward edge of the curtain to the top
tarpaulin and to the cowl side. Then insert the straight end of the side
curtain support rod into the hem at the rear edge of the curtain and
swing the lower end of the rod to such a position that it points toward
the front of the vehicle (fig. 204). Lift the rear edge of the curtain,
and insert the rod into its seat on top of the door panel. Fasten the
loop and strap fasteners holding the lower edge of the curtain to the
door. Repeat this operation for the other side curtain.
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TM 9-811
182-183
182. SEAT CUSHIONS AND BACKRESTS.
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE DRIVER'S SEAT CUSHION. Lift the front edge of the
driver's seat cushion and seat cushion adjusting frame and pull them
forward to clear the backrest and remove them from the cab.
(2) REMOVE DRIVER'S SEAT BACKREST. Remove the cotter pins
from the two clevis pins holding the top of the back to the cab panel
and then remove the pins. Then lift the backrest assembly, disengag-
ing the screws at the lower end from the slots in the cab panel bracket
and remove the backrest .
(3) REMOVE SEAT AND BACKREST ON RIGHT SIDE OF CAB. Dis-
engage the seat latch and then pull it up against the backrest. Then
remove the cap screws and nuts from the seat and backrest pivot
brackets and remove the seat and backrest from the cab.
b. Installation.'
(1) INSTALL SEAT AND BACKREST ON RIGHT SIDE OF CAB. Lift
the seat and backrest into place on the cab with their canvas sides
facing each other and the pivot holes lined up with each other, and
with the holes in the cab panel pivot brackets. Then install the cap
screws and nuts which were removed. Pull the seat down until the
seat lock is engaged.
(2) INSTALL DRIVER'S BACKREST. Lift the driver's backrest into
position with the clevis pin brackets toward the top, then engage the
screws at the bottom with the slots in the backrest mounting bracket
and push the backrest down to lock the screws in the slots. Install the
clevis pins through the holes in the backrest and cab panel brackets
and install cotter pins to hold them in place.
(3 ) INSTALL DRIVER'S SEAT CUSHION. Lift the driver's seat cushion
adjusting frame into position in the cab with the canvas facing up.
Slide the back of the cushion underneath the backrest, and engage the
holes in the adjusting frame over the lugs on the seat riser. The posi-
tion of the seat is controlled by engaging the seat riser lugs in the proper
holes in the adjusting frame.
183. WINDSHIELD.
a. Open Cab Windshield.
(1) REMOVAL. Loosen thumb screws holding the windshield sec-
tor arms lock, and open the windshield three to four inches at the bot-
tom. Remove pivot screw and washer holding each sector arm to the
windshield frame. Then swing the glass assembly out to a horizontal
position and pull it from the frame, sliding the bead on the top of the
glass assembly from the slotted tube in the frame.
(2) INSTALLATION. Lift the windshield assembly into position
alongside the windshield frame and slide the bead on the top of the
glass assembly into the slotted tube on top of the frame. Be sure that
the handle on the lower windshield panel faces in towards the cab. Then
connect .the nuts of the sector arms to the windshield glass frame using
the screws and washers which were removed. Loosen the thumb screws,
pull the sector arms in to close the windshield, then tighten thumb
screws.
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TM 9-811
183-184
CAB
b. Closed Cab Windshields.
(1) REMOVAL. Remove the sector arms from the frames. Remove
two flathead screws from each hinge, and remove the windshield as-
sembly.
(2) INSTALLATION. Position windshield assembly and install two
screws in each hinge. Install sector arms on windshield frame.
184. WINDSHIELD WIPERS.
a. Removal. Remove the hex head screw holding the wiper arm
and blade assembly to the wiper shaft, and remove the assembly.
Figure 205Installing Windshield Wiper
Spread the clamp on the end of the rubber hose leading to the wind-
shield wiper. Disconnect the hose from the wiper. Remove the two
screws holding the windshield wiper to the top panel of the windshield
frame, and pull the wiper assembly away from the windshield (fig.
205).
b. Installation. Lift the windshield wiper assembly into position
with the air inlet fitting facing towards the rubber hose, and slide the
wiper shaft through the hole in the top windshield panel (fig. 205).
Install screws attaching the wiper assembly to the panel and tighten
securely. Slide the end of the rubber hose over the connector tube on
the end of the wiper and squeeze the clamp together. Slide the wiper
blade and arm assembly over the end of the wiper shaft and replace
the hex head screw.
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Its
Section XL
SHEET METAL
/ Paragraph
Hood 185
Fender shields 186
Fenders 187
Running boards 188
Battery box 189
Splash shields 190
185. HOOD,
a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT BOND STRAP. Open hood and remove the screw,
nut, flat washer, and lock washer holding the bond strap to the radia-
tor stay rod (fig. 206).
Figure 206Disconnecting Hood Bond Strap
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185
SHEET METAL
(2) DISCONNECT HOOD SUPPORT ARMS. Remove the cotter pins
from the clevis pins at the upper ends of the hood support arms, and
take out the clevis pins. Pull these support arms from the hood and
close the hood sides.
(3) REMOVE HOOD TO COWL CAP SCREWS. Using a hammer and
punch, flatten out the ears on the lock plate holding the cap screws,
and remove the cap screws and lock plate (fig. 207).
(4) REMOVE HOOD TO RADIATOR CAP SCREWS. Using a hammer
and punch, flatten out the ears on the lock plate, hold it against the
Figure 207Folding Lock Plate Away From the Hood
Center Panel Cap Screws
cap screws, and remove the cap screws, toothed lock washers and lock
plate.
(5) REMOVE HOOD. Lift the hood from the cowl and radiator, and
remove it from the chassis.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL HOOD ASSEMBLY. Lift the hood assembly and lower
it into place over the engine compartment.
(2) INSTALL HOOD TO RADIATOR CAP SCREWS. Install the lock
plate over the mounting holes in the hood center panel and then install
the cap screws and toothed lock washers. After the cap screws are
tightened, bend an ear of the lock plate against a fiat side on the cap
screw.
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TM 9-811
185-186
(3) INSTALL HOOD TO COWL CAP SCREWS. Install the lock plate
over the mounting holes in the hood center panel and then install the
cap screws. After the cap screws are tightened, bend an ear of the lock
plate against a flat side on the cap screw.
(4) CONNECT HOOD ARMS. Lift the hood sides and connect the
upper end of the hood support arms to the hood with cotter and clevis
pins.
(5) CONNECT HOOD BOND STRAP. Connect the hood bond strap
to the tinned portion of the radiator stay rod, using the screw, nut, plain
washer and lock washer.
186. FENDER SHIELDS.
a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT FENDER SHIELDS FROM FRAME. Raise hood and
remove the cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding the fender
shields to the frame rail. As the cap screws are removed, disconnect
the bonds and harness clips which are connected under them.
(2) DISCONNECT FENDER SHIELD FROM FENDER. Remove the
screws, lock washers and plain washers holding the fender shield to
the fender. At the same time remove the toothed lock washers which
are held between the fender and fender shields under some of the
screws.
(3) DISCONNECT AIR BRAKE CHAMBER HOSE SUPPORT SPRING.
Unhook the air brake chamber support spring from the hole in the
bottom of the fender shield.
(4) DISCONNECT FUEL LINE. Disconnect the fuel line between
the fuel filter and fuel pump. This applies to the left fender shield only.
(5) REMOVE FENDER SHIELD. Lift the fender shield out of the
engine compartment. It may be necessary to bend the shield on the
right side in order to get it out.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL THE FENDER SHIELD. Install the fender shield into
position on top of the frame rail. If the right fender shield was bent
during removal, it will be necessary to straighten it after it is installed.
(2) FASTEN FENDER SHIELD TO FENDER. Replace the screws, lock
washers and plain washers holding the fender shield to the fender.
NOTE: Be sure to install toothed lock washers which were removed
from between the shield and the fender.
(3) FASTEN FENDER SHIELD TO FRAME RAIL. Install the cap
screws, nuts and lock washers which were removed from between
fender shield and frame rail. It will be necessary to install the toothed
lock washers, bond straps, and harness clips which were disconnected
when the cap screws were removed in exactly the same order in which
they were found.
(4) HOOK THE AIR BRAKE CHAMBER HOSE SUPPORT SPRING.
Hook the air brake chamber hose support spring through the hole
in the fender shield.
364
TM 9-811
187
SHEET METAL
187. FENDERS.
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE CAP SCREW IN FRONT OF FENDER. Remove the cap
screw, plain washer and lock washer holding the front of the fender
to the frame rail.
(2) REMOVE HEAD LAMPS AND MARKER LIGHTS FROM FENDER.
Remove the headlights and marker lights from the fender, as described
in paragraph 102. When working on the left hand fender, it will be
necessary to remove the blackout driving light also (par. 102).
(3) REMOVE RADIATOR MOUNTING BOLTS. Remove the cotter
pin, nut and plain washer from the radiator mounting bolt, and remove
the bolt.
(4) DISCONNECT RADIATOR BOND STRAP. Disconnect the bond
strap between the radiator and the frame rail at the frame rail by
removing the cap screw, lock washer and toothed lock washer.
(5) REMOVE FENDER TO FENDER SHIELD SCREWS. Remove the
screws, plain washers and lock washers holding the fender to the fender
shield.
(6) REMOVE FENDER. Remove the bolts, nuts, and lock washers
holding the three fender brackets to the frame rail and to the rear
spring hanger and remove the fender and bracket assembly. Then
remove the bolts, nuts and lock washers holding the fender brackets
to the fender.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL FENDER BRACKETS ON FENDER. Fasten the fender
brackets to the fender with the bolts, nuts and lock washers which
were removed.
(2) INSTALL FENDER ON VEHICLE. Lift the fender assembly into
position on the vehicle and fasten it in place, holding the brackets to
the frame rail and rear spring hanger with the bolts, nuts and lock
washers.
(3 ) FASTEN FENDER TO FENDER SHIELD. Replace the screws, plain
washers and lock washers, fastening the fender to fender shields.
NOTE: It will be necessary to install toothed lock washers, between
the fender and the shield under the screws with which they were re-
moved.
(4) CONNECT RADIATOR BOND STRAP. Connect the radiator bond
strap to the frame rail with the cap screws, lock washers and toothed
lock washers which were removed.
(5) INSTALL RADIATOR MOUNTING BOLT. Install the radiator
mounting bolt through the top insulator and replace the plain washer,
nut and cotter pin on the threaded end of the bolt. Tighten the radiator
mounting bolt nut with a torque wrench to a reading of 10 to 12 foot-
pounds.
(6) INSTALL CAP SCREW IN FRONT OF FENDER. Replace the cap
screw, plain washer and lock washer holding the front of the fender to
the frame rail.
365
TM 9-811
188-189
188. RUNNING BOARDS.
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE CARRIAGE BOLTS HOLDING RUNNING BOARD TO THE
RUNNING BOARD SUPPORTS. Remove the carriage bolts, nuts and lock
washers holding the running boards to the running board supports
hanging under the chassis.
(2) DISCONNECT RUNNING BOARD FROM BATTERY Box. Remove
the cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding the running board to
the battery box. These cap screws are not used on the left running
board.
(3) REMOVE RUNNING BOARD. Lift the running board from the
running board supports and remove the two wooden spacer blocks from
underneath it.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL WOODEN BLOCKS ON RUNNING BOARD SUPPORTS.
Install a wooden block on each running board support arm, lining up
the holes in the blocks with the holes in the running board supports.
(2 ) INSTALL RUNNING BOARDS. Place the running boards in posi-
tion on top of the wooden blocks, lining up the mounting holes with
the holes in the blocks and insert the carriage bolts and install the nuts
and lock washers which were removed.
(3 ) INSTALL CAP SCREWS HOLDING THE RUNNING BOARD TO BAT-
TERY Box. Replace the cap screws, nuts and lock washers holding the
running board to the battery box. NOTE: These cap screws are not
used on the left side of the vehicle.
189. BATTERY BOX.
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE RUNNING BOARD. Remove the running board as de-
(2) REMOVE BATTERIES. Open battery box door, disconnect the
battery cables, and remove the batteries, as described in paragraph 101.
(3) REMOVE BATTERY GROUND STRAP. Remove the cap screw,
nut and lock washer attaching the ground strap to the running board
support hanger bracket, and remove the ground strap.
(4) REMOVE COWL MOUNTING PARTS. Remove the cotter pin,
nut and plain washer from the right hand cowl mounting bolt, then re-
move the bolt, and upper and lower insulators.
(5) REMOVE BATTERY Box. Remove the cap screw, nut and lock
washer holding the back of the battery box to the forward running
board support hanger bracket, then remove the cap screws, lock washers
and nuts through the bottom of the battery box which hold it to the
running board supports. Then pull the battery box out and remove
it from the chassis.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL BATTERY Box. Lift the battery box onto the running
board supports, and slide it into position against the frame rail, lining
366
TM 9-811
189-190
SHEET METAL
up the mounting holes. Replace the cap screws, nuts and lock washers
holding the bottom of the battery box to the running board supports.
Replace the cap screw, nut and lock washer holding the back of the
battery box to the forward running board support hanger bracket.
(2) INSTALL BATTERY GROUND STRAP. Attach the battery ground
strap to the back of the battery box, using the cap screw, nut and lock
washer which were removed.
(3) INSTALL COWL MOUNTING PARTS. Slide the upper cowl
mounting insulator into place between the cowl and the battery box.
Install the cowl mounting bolt through the cowl, upper insulator, bat-
tery box, and cowl mounting bracket. Then install the lower insulator,
plain washer, nut and cotter pin.
(4) INSTALL BATTERIES. Install the batteries in battery box and
connect battery cables as described in paragraph 101.
(5) INSTALL RUNNING BOARD. Install the running board, as de-
190. SPLASH SHIELDS.
a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT BRACES FROM SPLASH SHIELDS. Remove the cap
screws, nuts and lock washers holding the splash shield braces to the
shield.
(2) REMOVE SPLASH SHIELD. Remove the cap screws, plain
washers, nuts and lock washers attaching the splash shield to the body,
and remove the splash shield.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL SPLASH SHIELD. Install the splash shield into posi-
tion on the body and attach it in place with cap screws, plain washer,
nuts and lock washers.
(2) CONNECT SPLASH SHIELD BRACES. Fasten the splash shield
braces to the splash shield with cap screws, nuts and lock washers.
367
TM 9-811
191
A DASH PANEL
B WINDSHIELD WIPER VALVE
C WINDSHIELD WIPER VALVE NUT
D WINDSHIELD WIPER VALVE KNOB
E DASH LIGHT
r BLACKOUT DRIVING LAMP SWITCH
BUTTON
G BLACKOUT DRIVING LAMP SWITCH NUT
H MAIN LIGHT SWITCH LOCK WASHER
I MAIN LIGHT SWITCH NUT
J MAIN LIGHT SWITCH LATCH
K MAIN LIGHT SWITCH BUTTON
L TACHOMETER CABLE
M TACHOMETER
N AIR PRESSURE GAGE
O TACHOMETER LOCK
P TACHOMETER LOCK KEYS
O SPARK CONTROL WIRE
IGNITION SWITCH NUT
S IGNITION SWITCH
T FUEL GAGE
U FUEL GAGE TERMINAL NUTS
V FUEL GAGE TERMINAL LOCK WASHERS
W OIL PRESSURE GAGE
X TEMPERATURE GAGE
Y CHOKE CONTROL WIRE
Z THROTTLE CONTROL WIRE
AA SPEEDOMETER
AB VISCOMFTER
AC SPEEDOMETER CABLE
AD FRONT BATTERY AMMETER
AE AMMETER
AF AMMETER TERMINAL LOCK WASHERS
AG AMMETER TERMINAL NUTS
AH PANEL LIGHT SWITCH NUT
Al PANEL LIGHT SWITCH BUTTON
AJ VISCOMETER BRACKET
AK VISCOMETER BRACKET LOCK WASHERS
Al VISCOMETER BRACKET NUTS
AM SPEEDOMETER BRACKET
AN SPEEDOMETER BRACKET WING NUTS
AO SPEEDOMETER BRACKET LOCK WASHERS
AP TEMPERATURE GAGE BRACKET
AQ TEMPERATURE GAGE BRACKET NUTS
AR TEMPERATURE GAGE BRACKET
LOCK WASHERS
AS OIL PRESSURE GAGE BRACKET.
AT OIL PRESSURE GAGE BRACKET NUTS
AU OIL PRESSURE GAGE BRACKET
LOCK WASHERS
AV FUEL GAGE BRACKET
AW FUEL GAGE BRACKET NUTS
AX FUEL GAGE BRACKET LOCK WASHERS
AY TACHOMETER BRACKET
AZ TACHOMETER BRACKET WING NUTS
A TACHOMETER BRACKET LOCK WASHERS
BB AIR PRESSURE GAGE BRACKET
BC AIR PRESSURE GAGE BRACKET NUTS
BD AIR PRESSURE GAGE BRACKET
LOCK WASHERS
BE BLACKOUT DRIVING LAMP SWITCH
BF MAIN LIGHT SWITCH
BG FRONT BATTERY AMMETER BRACKET
BH FRONT BATTERY AMMETER BRACKET
LOCK WASHERS
Bl FRONT BATTERY AMMETER BRACKET NUTS
TM 9-811
191-193
Section XLI
INSTRUMENTS
Paragraph
Air pressure gage 191
Ammeters 192
Fuel gage 193
Oil pressure gage 194
Speedometer 195
Tachometer 196
Temperature gage 197
Viscometer 198
191. AIR PRESSURE GAGE.
a. Removal. Disconnect the air line from the back of the gage.
Remove the nuts and lock washers holding the air pressure gage mount-
ing bracket to the instrument, and remove the bracket from in back of
the dash. Reach behind the dash panel and push the instrument out
far enough to grip it with the other hand and pull it from the hole in
the panel.
b. Installation. Slide the air pressure gage into its mounting hole
in the dash panel and install the mounting bracket behind the instru-
ment. Fasten the bracket to the instrument with the nuts and lock
washers which were removed. Connect the air line to the back of the
instrument.
192. AMMETERS.
a. General. Two ammeters are used with all 4-ton, 6x6 trucks
(fig. 208). The first is a conventional-type which indicates the amount
of charge or discharge within the electrical system. The second is an
indicating-type ammeter which registers the condition of the front
battery only.
b. Removal. Remove the terminal nuts and lock washers, and
disconnect the wires from the terminals. Remove the nuts and lock
washers holding the mounting bracket to the ammeter and remove
the bracket. Reach behind the dash panel and push the instrument
out far enough so that it may be gripped with the other hand, and pull
it from the dash.
c. Installation. Install the ammeter into position in the proper
hole in the dash panel, then install the ammeter mounting bracket into
place in back of the panel. Fasten the mounting bracket in place with
the nuts and lock washers which were removed. Connect the wires to
the ammeter terminals and replace the terminal nuts and washers.
193. FUEL GAGE.
a. Removal. Remove the nuts and lock washers holding the fuel
gage mounting bracket in place, and remove the bracket. Disconnect
the wire from the fuel gage terminal after removing the terminal nuts
and washers. Reach behind the dash panel, and push the gage out
far enough to grip it with the other hand, then pull it from the panel.
7S4619 O - 47 - 24 369
TM 9-811
193-196
b. Installation. Install the fuel gage into place in the hole in
the dash panel. Install the fuel gage mounting bracket from behind
the dash panel, and fasten it to the instrument with the nuts and lock
washers which were removed. Install the fuel gage wire over the ter-
minal stud and replace the terminal nut and washer.
194. OIL PRESSURE GAGE:
a. Removal. Disconnect the oil line in back of the oil pressure
gage. Remove the nuts and lock washers holding the oil pressure gage
bracket to the instrument and remove the bracket. Reach behind the
dash panel and push the oil pressure gage out far enough so that it
may be gripped with the other hand, and remove it from the panel.
b. Installation. Install the oil pressure gage into position in the
hole in the dash panel and install the mounting bracket against it from
in back of the panel. Fasten the mounting bracket to the gage, using
the nuts and lock washers which were removed. Connect the oil line
to the fitting in back of the gage.
195. SPEEDOMETER.
a. Removal. Back off the thumb screw adapter in back of the
speedometer and then disconnect the cable from the instrument. Re-
move the wing nuts and lock washers holding the speedometer mount-
ing bracket to the speedometer, and remove the bracket. Reach behind
the dash panel and push the speedometer out far enough so that it
may be gripped with the other hand, and remove it from the panel.
b. Installation. Install the speedometer into place on the dash
and replace the mounting bracket behind the dash. Fasten the mount-
ing bracket to the speedometer, using the wing nuts and lock washers
which were removed. Slide the end of the speedometer cable into
the adapter, then thread the thumb screw over the adapter and tighten
it securely. Do not use a wrench on the thumb screw.
196. TACHOMETER.
a, Removal. Back off the thumb screw at the end of the cable
and disconnect the cable from the adapter in back of the tachometer.
Remove the wing nuts and lock washers holding the tachometer mount-
ing bracket to the tachometer, and remove the bracket. Reach behind
the dash and push the tachometer far enough so that it may be gripped
with the other hand, then remove it from the dash panel.
b. Installation. Install the tachometer in its mounting hole on the
dash panel and install tachometer mounting bracket behind it. Attach
the mounting bracket to the tachometer, using wing nuts and lock
washers. Engage end of the tachometer cable with the adapter in back
of the tachometer, then thread the thumb screw over the head of the
adapter and tighten it securely. NOTE: Do not use a wrench on the
thumb screw.
370
TM 9-811
197-198
INSTRUMENTS
197. TEMPERATURE GAGE.
a. Removal. Lift the engine hood and unscrew the hexagon
adapter holding the bulb in the rear cylinder head, then remove the
bulb from the cylinder head. Remove the nuts and lock washers hold-
ing the mounting bracket to the temperature gage, and remove the
bracket. Pull the temperature gage tube and bulb through the open-
ing in the cowl, then remove the instrument tube and bulb assembly
through the hole in the dash panel.
b. Installation. Insert the bulb on the end of the temperature
gage tube through the opening in the dash panel, then pull the tube
through far enough so that the instrument is supported on the dash.
Install the temperature gage mounting bracket behind the dash and
attach it to the instrument using nuts and lock washers. Push the bulb
and tube through the opening in the cowl and into the engine com-
partment. Then insert the bulb into the opening in the rear cylinder
head, and run up the hexagon adapter plug and tighten it securely.
198. VISCOMETER.
a. Removal. Disconnect the oil line which is attached to the back
of the viscometer. Remove the nuts and lock washers holding the
mounting bracket to the viscometer, and remove the bracket. Reach
behind the dash panel and push the viscometer out far enough so that
it can be gripped with the other hand, then remove it from the dash
panel.
b. Installation. Install viscometer into the hole in the dash panel
and then install the mounting bracket against it from the other side.
Fasten the mounting bracket to the viscometer, using nuts and lock
washers. Connect the oil line to the back of the viscometer.
371
TM 9-811
199
BONO CUPS-HOODS SHIELD
BOTH SIDES AT <t AXLE
CLIP BOND
.CUP-HOOD SIDE K-30565
CLIP-SHIELD N 28565
SHIELD
'/ BOLTS N-6025I-M
&NUTS N-I63II-D
'ALOCK WASHERS N7460-V
&EAR HEAD
FRONT HEAD
PLATI BOND
DISTRIBUTOR
RESISTOR SUPPRESSOR
SPARK PLUG
RESISTOR SUPPRESSOR
FILTER
GENERATOR CAPACITOR
RA PD 313800
Figure 209Radio Suppression Parts
372
TM 9-811
199-200
Section XLII
RADIO INTERFERENCE SUPPRESSION
Paragraph
Description and tabulated data r 199
Emergency procedures 200
Bonds 201
Location of toothed lock washers 202
Radio interference. 203
a. Description. To prevent interference with radio communica-
tion, the electrical systems of all vehicles which have an "S" marked
on the cowl shoulder on each side of the vehicle are equipped with
filtered power lines, resistance suppressed distributor and spark plugs,
bonding and shielding (fig. 209). It is important that the driver and
the mechanic understand that the radio interference suppression equip-
ment is necessary and must not be decommissioned except in emer-
gencies where it is important to get the vehicle running again in a
hurry.
b. Tabulated Data.
Type of Suppression:
Power lines Filtered
Spark and distributor :Resistance
Units of vehicle Bonding
Spark plug suppressor resistance 15,000 ohms
Distributor suppressor resistance -. . . . 15,000 ohms
Wrecker air compressor spark plug suppressor
resistance 15,000 ohms
200. EMERGENCY PROCEDURES.
a. General. Filters have been placed in series with the power lines
to the regulator field terminal, the regulator battery terminal and the
ammeter terminal. The generator armature ("A" terminal) has a
capacitor or condenser connected to a ground. The ignition filter and
the ammeter regulator "B" and battery filters are in a group on the
dash. The tetrminals are exposed by removing the bracket cover
which is held by a friction snap latch in the center of the bracket. The
regulator field filter is mounted on the regulator.
b. In the event that failure of the ignition system or charging sys-
tem appears to be due to open-circuited filters, an emergency repair
may be made by running a jumper wire across the terminals of the filter
unit in the line. If the ignition or charging circuit functions satisfac-
torily with the jumper lead, it may be assumed that the trouble was
caused by an open-circuited filter. If the jumper wire fails to correct
the trouble, disconnect the wires from the filter terminals and connect
them together. If this produces satisfactory operation, it may be as-
sumed that the filter was grounded.
373
TM 9-811
200-201
c. The generator capacitor is mounted on the generator and can
be checked by removing the bracket of the capacitor from the ground.
If shorted, temporary operation of the vehicle can be obtained by
leaving the filter ungrounded, or by removing same.
d. Whenever a vehicle has been given an emergency repair for
radio suppression equipment as outlined above, this fact must be re-
ported to the proper authorities at the earliest opportunity. Arrange-
ments should be made to turn the vehicle over to the proper main-
tenance unit for repair or replacement of parts. Remember that these
are only emergency repairs and that proper remedial measures must
not be neglected.
201. BONDS.
a. General (fig. 209). Bonds are used on these vehicles to be sure
that all metal parts are positively grounded to prevent any electrical
leakage which might cause radio interference. The bond connections
must be kept clean and tight in order to provide a low-resistance ground
connection.
b. Types. The bonding used on these vehicles is of various types
as follows:
(1) Braided bonds.
(2) Strap clamp bonds.
(3) Bronze knife switch clip bonds.
(4) Bronze plate bonds.
(5) Prepared spots.
c. Braided Bonds. The braided bonds consist of a braided strap
with a terminal on each end. Thirteen of these are used, connected
from a unit to a ground. These are as follows:
(1) Cowl to frame (2).
(2) Head to dash (1).
(3) Distributor to block (1).
(4 ) Compressor discharge tube to frame (1).
( 5 ) Generator to frame (1).
( 6 ) Bell housing to frame (1).
( 7 ) Oil pan to front axle (1).
(8) Radiator to frame (2).
( 9 ) Hood sides to center panel ( 2 ).
(10) Radiator tie rod to hood center panel (1).
d. Strap Clamp Bonds. The strap clamp bonds consist of a soft
metal strap which clamps tightly around instrument cables with the
free end fastened to a ground. Three of these are used as follows:
(1) Tachometer cable to cowl (1).
(2 ) Spark control and heat indicator cables to cowl (1).
(3 ) Throttle and choke cables to cowl (1).
e. Knife Switch Clip Bonds. The knife switch clip bonds con-
sist of a pair of bronze clips fastened to the lower edge of the hood
374
TM 9-811
201-202
side panel and the top of the fender shield. These come together and
make good ground contact when the hood is closed. Two of these are
used, one for each hood side.
f. Bronze Plate Bond. The bronze plate bond consists of a plate
connecting the two cylinder heads together. It is held under adjacent
cylinder head bolts with a toothed lock washer between each head and
the plate.
g. Prepared Spots. The prepared spots are a good electrical
connection between two metal surfaces accomplished by a toothed
lock washer designed to dig into the adjacent metal surfaces. They are
used where parts are fastened together. There are twenty-nine of these
as follows:
(I) Filter to cowl mounting (4).
( 2 ) Regulator to cowl mounting ( 4 ).
(3 ) Filter to regular mounting (1).
f 4) Fender to shield mounting (4).
(5) Shield to frame mounting (6).
( 6 ) Hood top to radiator mounting ( 2 ).
( 7 ) Hood top to cowl mounting ( 2 ).
( 8 ) Coil bracket to head mounting (1).
( 9 ) Coil bracket to bracket mounting ( 2 ).
(10 ) Steering column bracket to cowl mounting ( 2 ).
(II) Pinched between steering column bracket and steering
column (1).
h. It is important that all bonds be kept tight and clean. Be sure
that the toothed lock washers are always in place. When disassembly
work on vehicle is necessary, be sure to use these lock washers between
parts to be grounded and bond connections, and also between bond
connections and grounds when reassembling the vehicle. Do not forget
the lock washers to be used at the prepared spots as listed above. It is
important that the toothed lock washers used have the proper finish.
Use only tin or cadmium plated lock washers with radio suppression
devices. Do not use oxide finished lock washers. Bonds should be ex-
amined for frayed or broken wires or other damage caused by brush,
accident or wear.
202. LOCATION OF TOOTHED LOCK WASHERS.
Toothed Location of
Description lock Washers Toothed Lock Washers
Filterdash (dual) ... 4 Between filter and dash (one bolt
used in common for filter and
regulator) ,
Regulator 4 Between regulator and dash
1 Between regulator and field filter
bracket
Strap clamp bond on
tachometer cable ... 1 Between dash and bond
375
TM 9-811
202
Description
Strap clamp bond on
heat indicator and
spark control cables
Bond
Bond from compressor
line to frame
Clip on compressor line
end of above bond
Bond.
Bond.
Bond.
Bond between front and
rear cylinder head. ..
Strap clamp bond choke
and throttle cables. .
Bond
Toothed Location of
Lock Waiheri Toothed Lock Washers
2 Bond fastened to dash with same
bolt as used for tachometer bond.
Bonds are placed adjacent to
each other at dash
2 Between bond and cowl and be-
tween bond and nut. Left side
2 Dittoright side
2 Between cowl bond and fender
shield and between fender shield
and frame. Left side
2 Dittoright side
2 Between bond and fender shield
and between fender shield and
frame
One (1) flat washer and one cadmi-
um-plated washer used. Cadmi-
um-plated clip and bond are
adjacent
1 Between distributor and bond
1 Between block and bond and be-
. tween bond and bolt head.
1 Between bond and bell housing
1 Between bond and frame
3 Two (2) between steering column
bracket and cowl. One (1)
placed in a hole cut in steering
column bushing to ground col-
umn to upper bracket when
drawn up tight
2 Between bond and bolt head and
tween bond and crankcase
sump
1 Between bond and front axle differ-
ential carrier and between bond
and bolt head
2 One (1) each between bond and
each head
1 Attaching strap clamp to regulator
1 Between cylinder head and bond
1 Between engine bond and dash
376
TM 9-811
202-203
Toothed Location of
Description - Lock Washers Toothed Lock Washers
Bond 1 Between generator band and bond
2 Between generator band bond and
fender shield. Between fender
shield and frame
2 Between right side fender and
fender shield
2 Dittoleft side
Bond 1 Between right side radiator side
frame and bond
1 Dittoleft side
2 Between bond and fender and
fender and frame right side
2 Dittoleft side
2 Between front top hood and radi-
ator top frame
2 Between back top hood and cowl
Bond 1 Between left side hood cover and
bond
1 Dittoright side
Clip (cadmium-plated)
on radiator tie rod
Bond 1 Right side hood, left side hood and
radiator tie rod to hood center
panel
Washer between hood center panel
and bonds
Bond clip 2 Right sidebetween clip and hood
2 Dittoleft side
2 Right sidebetween clip and fen-
der shield
2 Dittoleft side
1 Between coil bracket and head
2 Between coil and bracket
203. RADIO INTERFERENCE.
a. Due to Ignition.
(1) Check distributor, spark plugs and suppressors.
(2) Tighten braided bonding straps.
(3) Tighten radiator, fender and fender shield bolts.
b. Due to Generator.
(1) Tighten regulator and generator bonds.
(2) Check for defective or dirty commutator, brushes, or brush
holders.
377
TM 9-811
203
(3) Check for excessively discharged battery causing high charg-
ing rate.
c. Due to Erratic Noises.
(1) Check for failure of high-tension insulation.
(2) Check for loose wiring connections or corroded distributor cap
towers.
(3) Check for defective switches or gages.
378
TM 9-811
204-205
Section XLIII
SHIPMENT AND TEMPORARY STORAGE
Paragraph
General instructions 204
Preparation for temporary storage or domestic shipment... 205
Loading and blocking for rail shipment 206
204. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
a. Preparation for domestic shipment of the vehicle is the same as
preparation for temporary storage or bivouac. Preparation for ship-
ment by rail includes instructions for loading and unloading the ve-
hicle, blocking necessary to secure the vehicle on freight cars, number
of vehicles per freight car, clearance, weight, and other information
necessary to properly prepare the vehicle for rail shipment. For more
detailed information, and for preparation for indefinite storage, refer
to AR 850-18.
205. PREPARATION FOR TEMPORARY STORAGE OR
DOMESTIC SHIPMENT.
a. Vehicles to be prepared for temporary storage or domestic
shipment are those ready for immediate service, but not used for less
than thirty days. If vehicles are to be indefinitely stored after shipment
by rail, they will be prepared for such storage at their destination.
b. If the vehicles are to be temporarily stored or bivouacked, take
the following precautions:
(1) LUBRICATION. Lubricate the vehicle completely (par. 26).
(2) COOLING SYSTEM. If freezing temperature may normally be
expected during the limited storage or shipment period, test the coolant
with a hydrometer and add the proper quantity of antifreeze com-
pound, to afford protection from freezing at the lowest temperature
anticipated during the storage or shipping period. Completely inspect
the cooling system for leaks.
(3) BATTERY. Check battery and terminals for corrosion and, if
necessary, clean and thoroughly service battery (par. 101).
(4) TIRES. Clean, inspect, and properly inflate all tires. Replace
with serviceable tires, all tires requiring retreading or repairing. Do
not store vehicles on floors, cinders, or other surfaces which are soaked
with oil or grease. Wash off immediately any oil, grease, gasoline, or
kerosene which comes in contact with the tires under any circumstances.
(5) ROAD TEST. The preparation for limited storage will include a
road test of at least five miles, after the battery, cooling system, lubri-
cation, and tire services, to check on general condition of the vehicle.
Correct any defects noted in the vehicle operation, before the vehicle
is stored, or note on a tag attached to the steering wheel, stating the
repairs needed, or describing the condition present. A written report
of these items will then be made to the officer in charge.
(6) FUEL IN TANKS. It is not necessary to remove the fuel from
the tanks for shipment within the United States, nor to label the tanks
379
TM 9-811
205-206
under Interstate Commerce Commission Regulations. Leave fuel in
the tanks except when storing in locations where fire ordinances or
other local regulations require removal of all gasoline before storage.
( 7 ) EXTERIOR OF VEHICLE. Remove with sandpaper rust appear-
ing on any part of the vehicle exterior. Repaint surfaces whenever
necessary to protect wood or metal from deterioration. Exposed pol-
ished metal surfaces which are susceptible to rust, such as winch cables,
chains, and, in the case of track-laying vehicles, metal tracks, should
be coated with a protective medium grade lubricating oil. Close
firmly all cab doors, windows and windshields. Vehicles equipped with
open-type cabs with collapsible tops will have the tops raised, all cur-
tains in place, and the windshield closed. Make sure tarpaulins and
window curtains are in place and firmly secured. Leave rubber mats,
such as floor mats, where provided, in an unrolled position on the
floor, and not rolled or curled up. Equipment, such as Pioneer and
.truck tools, tire chains, and fire extinguishers, will remain in place in
the vehicle.
(8) INSPECTION. Make a systematic inspection just before ship-
ment or temporary storage, to insure all above steps have been covered,
and that the vehicle is ready for operation on call. Make a list of all
missing or damaged items and attach it to the steering wheel. Refer
to Before-operation Service (par. 21).
(9) ENGINE. To prepare the engine for storage, remove the air
cleaner from the carburetor. Start the engine and set the throttle to
run the engine at a fast idle. Pour one pint of medium grade, preserva-
tive lubricating oil, Ordnance Department Specification AXS-674, of
the latest issue in effect, into the carburetor throat, being careful not
to choke the engine. Turn off the ignition switch as quickly as possible
after the oil has been poured into the carburetor. With the engine
switch off, open the throttle wide, and turn the engine five complete
revolutions by means of the cranking motor. If the engine cannot be
turned by the cranking motor with the switch off, turn it by hand, or
disconnect the high-tension lead and ground it before turning the engine
by means of the cranking motor. Then reinstall the air cleaner.
(10) BRAKES. Release brakes and chock the wheels or tracks.
c. Inspection in Limited Storage.
(1) Vehicles in limited storage will be inspected weekly for con-
dition of tires and battery. If water is added when freezing weather
is anticipated, recharge the battery with a portable charger, or remove
the battery for charging. Do not attempt to charge the battery by
running the engine.
206. LOADING AND BLOCKING FOR RAIL SHIPMENT.
a. Preparation. In addition to the preparation described in para-
graph 205, when ordnance vehicles are prepared for domestic shipment,
the following preparations and precautions will be taken:
(1) EXTERIOR. Cover the body of the vehicle with a canvas cover
supplied as an accessory.
380
TM 9-811
206
(2) TIRES. Inflate pneumatic tires from 5 to 10 pounds above
normal pressure.
(3) BATTERY. Disconnect the battery to prevent its discharge by
vandalism or accident. This may be accomplished by disconnecting
the positive lead, taping the end of the lead, and tying it back away
from the battery.
(4) BRAKES. The brakes must be applied and the transmission
placed in low gear, after the vehicle has been placed in position with a
brake wheel clearance of at least 6 inches (A, fig. 210). The vehicles
will, be located on the car in such a manner as to prevent the car from
carrying an unbalanced load.
( 5 ) All cars containing ordnance vehicles must be placarded "DO
NOT HUMP."
(6) Ordnance vehicles may be shipped on flat cars, end-door box
cars, side-door box cars, or drop-end gondola cars, whichever type
car is the most convenient.
b. Facilities for Loading. Whenever possible, load and unload
vehicles from open cars under their own power, using permanent end
ramps and spanning platforms. Movement from one flat car to another
along the length of the train is made possible by cross-over plates or
spanning platforms. If no permanent end ramp is available, an im-
provised ramp can be made from railroad ties. Vehicles may be
loaded in gondola cars without drop ends by using a crane. In case
of shipment in side-door box cars, use a dolly-type jack to fit the ve-
hicles into position with the car.
c. Securing Vehicles. In securing or blocking a vehicle, three
motions (lengthwise, sidewise, and bouncing), must be prevented.
There are two approved methods of blocking the vehicles on freight
cars, as described below. When blocking dual wheels, all blocking will
be located against the outside wheel of the dual.
(1) FIRST METHOD (fig. 210). Locate eight blocks "B", one to the
front and one at the rear of each front wheel, one at the front of each
forward rear wheel, and one at the back of each rearward wheel. Nail
the heel of each block to the car floor with five 40-penny nails, and
toenail the portion of each block under the tire to the freight car floor
with two 40-penny nails. Locate two cleats "D" against the outside face
of each wheel. Nail the lower cleat "D" to the freight car floor with
three 40-penny nails and the top cleat to the cleat below with three
40-penny nails. Pass four strands, two wrappings, of No. 8 gage, black
annealed wire (C, fig. 210) through the holes in the wheels and pass
through the stake pockets. Tighten wires enough to remove slack.
NOTE: When a box car is used, this strapping must be applied in simi-
lar fashion and attached to the floor by the use of blocking or anchor
plates. This strapping is not required when gondolas are used.
(2) SECOND METHOD (fig. 210). Place two blocks "G"r one at
the front and one at the rear of the front wheels. Place two blocks, "G",
one at the front of the forward rear wheels and one at the back of the
rearward rear wheels. NOTE: These blocks "G" must be at least eight
inches wider than the over-all width of the vehicle at the freight car floor.
381
TM 9-811
206
BLOCK-F
"CHAMFER AT CONTACT POINT
-LENGTH TO SUIT-
RA PO 113f
RA PD 318269
Figure 210Blocking Requirements for Securing Truck
to Railroad Car
382
TM 9-811
206
Locate 16 cleats "F', 2 against blocks "G" at the front and rear of each
blocked wheel. Nail lower cleats to freight car floor with the five 40-
penny nails, then nail top cleat "F" to lower cleat "F" with five 40-penny
nails. Position four cleats "H", one over two cleats "G" and against
the outside of each blocked wheel. Nail each end of cleat "H" to cleats
"G" with three 40-penny nails. Pass four strands, two wrappings, of
No. 8 gage, black annealed wire (C, fig. 210) through the holes in the
wheels and pass through the stake pockets. Tighten wires enough to
remove slack. NOTE: When a box car is used, this strapping must be
applied in similar fashion and attached to the floor by the use of block-
ing or anchor plates. This strapping is not required when gondola cars
are used.
d. Shipping Data.
Length over-all, Cargo 268 in.
Wrecker 291s/8 in.
Ponton 296 Vi in.
Width over-all, Cargo 96 in.
Wrecker ...; 101 in.
Ponton 96 in.
Height over-all, Cargo 114 in.
Wrecker Ill in.
Ponton .' 114 in.
Shipping weight per vehicle:
Cargo 18,400 Ib
Wrecker 21,700 Ib
Ponton 18,800 Ib
Approximate floor area occupied per vehicle:
Cargo 178^3 sq ft
Wrecker 204 sq ft
Ponton 197 sq ft
Approximate volume occupied per vehicle:
Cargo 1,075 cu ft
Wrecker l,196cuft
Ponton 1,188 cuft
383
TM 9-811
REFERENCES
STANDARD NOMENCLATURE LISTS.
4-ton, 6x6 truck (Diamond T) SNL G-509
Cleaning, preserving and lubricating materials; re-
coil fluids, special oils, and miscellaneous re-
lated items r. SNLK-1
Soldering, brazing and welding materials, gases,
and related items SNLK-2
Tool setsmotor transport SNL N-19
Current Standard Nomenclature Lists are listed above.
An up-to-date list of SNL's is maintained in the
Ordnance Publications for Supply Index ASF Cat.
ORD 2 OPSI
EXPLANATORY PUBLICATIONS.
General.
List of publications for training FM 21-6
Military motor vehicles AR 850-15
Driver's manual TM 10-460
Standard military motor vehicles TM 9-2800
An up-to-date list of explanatory publications is
maintained in index to Ordnance Publications OFSBI-1
Related Technical Manuals.
Ordnance maintenance: 4-ton, 6x6 truck
(Diamond T) TM 9-1811
Ordnance maintenance: Hercules engines TM9-1832A
Maintenance and Repair.
Basic Maintenance Manual TM 38-250
Automotive electricity TM 10-580
Chassis, body, and trailer units TM 10-560
Automotive power transmission units TM 10-585
Automotive brakes TM 10-565
The internal combustion engine TM 10-570
Sheet metal work, body, fender and radiator
repairs TM 10-450
, Automotive lubrication TM 10-540
Electrical fundamentals TM 1-455
Motor vehicle inspections and preventive mainte-
nance services. . . '. TM9-2810
Fuels and carburetion TM 10-550
Maintenance and care of pneumatic tires and
rubber treads TM 31-200
Cleaning, preserving, lubricating and welding
materials and similar items issued by the ord-
nance department TM 9-850
Ordnance maintenance: Speedometers and tach-
ometers (Stewart-Warner) TM 9-1829A
Ordnance maintenance: Fuel pumps v... TM 9-1828A
384
TM 9-811
Ordnance maintenance: Carburetors (Zenith) . . . TM9-1826C
Ordnance maintenance: Electrical equipment
(Auto-Lite) TM 9-1825B
Ordnance maintenance: Power brakes systems
(Bendix-Westinghouse) TM 9-1827A
Cold weather lubrication and service of combat
vehicles and automotive materiel OFSB 6-11
Detailed lubrication instructions for ordnance
materiel OFSB 6-series
Protection of Materiel.
Camouflage FM 5-20
Explosives and demolitions FM 5-25
Defense against chemical attack FM 21-40
Decontamination of armored force vehicles FM 17-59
Chemical decontamination, materials and
equipment TM 3-220
Storage and Shipment.
Registration of motor vehicles AR 850-10
Storage of motor vehicle equipment AR 850-18
Ordnance storage and shipment chart, group G
major items OSSC-G
Rules governing the loading of mechanized and
motorized army equipment, also, major caliber
guns, for the United States Army and Navy, on
open top equipment published by Operations
and Maintenance Department of Association of
American Railroads.
734619 0-47-25 385
TM 9-811
INDEX
A Page No.
Air compressor (wrecker) 344
Air pressure gage 369
Ammeters 369
Auxiliary equipment, operation of
air compressor
description 46
operating suggestions 46
starting air compressor unit. . 49
dump truck
controls 49
operation 52
fire extinguisher
carbon dioxide extinguisher. . 53
carbon tetrachloride
extinguisher 53
winch
operation 39
shear pins 40
snatch block 40
winding cable 40
winding speeds 40
wrecker
brace legs 41
cautions 43
operation 41
safety rings on body bolster. . 45
stowing cable 45
Axles
front 240
rear 246
Batteries and lighting system
batteries
adding water 203
corrosion 206
description 203
hydrometer readings 205
installation 206
removal 206
data, tabulated
battery 203
lights 203
lighting system and horns
blackout driving light 211
blackout marker light 212
circuit breakers 218
headlights 207
Page No.
horns 216
stop and tail lights 214
switches 214
Brakes
adjustment
brake adjustment 256
front brake anchor pin
adjustment 257
air compressor
description 265
installation 266
maintenance 265
removal 266
brake chambers
description 263
installation 265
removal 264
TM 9-811
INDEX
BCont'd cg No.
BrakesCont'd
parking brake
adjustment 276
description 276
installation 278
removal 277
quick release valve
description 270
installation 271
removal 270
relay valve
description 271
installation 271
removal 271
slack adjusters
adjustment 262
description 261
installation 263
removal 262
stop light switch
description 272
installation 272
removal 272
Cab
Page No.
description
fan 174
general 174
radiator 174
thermostat 174
water pump 174
fan
cab tarpaulins and side curtains
installation 357
removal 356
description 355
seat cushions and backrests
installation 360
removal 360
windshield
installation 360
removal 360
windshield wipers
installation 361
removal 361
Carburetor 161
Clutch
adjustment 157
data, tabulated 155
description 155
installation 160
removal 159
Cooling system
data, tabulated 174
adjustment 180
installation 182
removal 180
radiator
cleaning 177
installation 178
removal 177
servicing
adding water 175
cleaning cylinder block water
passages 176
cooling system hose 176
draining 175
TM 9-811
DCont'd Pag No.
Data, tabulatedCont'd
transmission 219
vehicles 20
wheels 280
Description of vehicles
data, tabulated
capacities 22
engine 21
performance 20
vehicle specifications 20
description
differences among models... 7
general 7
identification 7
designations
chassis plate 11
engine plate 11
general 11
miscellaneous 11
publication plate 11
winch plate 11
winch power take-off plate.. '11
wrecker air compressor plates 11
wrecker plate 11
Driving controls and operation
controls and cab equipment
accelerator pedal 27
air pressure gage 25
ammeter 25
blackout driving lamp switch 27
brake pedal 27
choke button 25
clutch pedal 27
declutching lever 27
dimmer switch 27
front battery ammeter 25
fuel gage 25
general 24
hand brake lever 27
hand control valve 24
hand throttle button 25
horn button 24
ignition switch 25
instrument lights 24
main light switch 24
oil pressure gage 25
panel light switch 25
spark control 25
Page No.
speedometer 25
starter switch 27
steering wheel 24
tachometer 24
temperature gage 25
transfer case shift lever 27
transmission lever 27
transmission power take-off
shift lever 27
viscometer 25
warning plate 24
windshield wiper 24
windshield wiper control 24
operating the vehicle
cautions 33
front axle drive 34
gearshift (transfer case) 32
TM 9-811
INDEX
ECont'd Pa8<> No.
Engine maintenance and adjustment
in vehicleCont'd
cleaning carbon
cylinder heads, from 137
engine block, from 137
crankcase breather 147
cylinder head and gasket
installation 137
cylinder head and gasket
removal 137
data, tabulated 134
description 134
installation 152
intake and exhaust manifolds and
gaskets replacement
installation 142
removal 142
oil filters 145
oil pan
installation 143
oil strainer 143
removal 143
removal 149
tune-up
general 135
procedure 135
valve tappet adjustment 139
viscometer 147
Fan 180
Fire extinguisher 53
Frame and bodies
cargo body 315
dump body 319
frame
description 312
front bumper replacement. . . 313
maintenance 312
pintle hook replacement 312
ponton body 319
wrecker body 319
Front axle
axle assembly installation 245
axle assembly removal 244
Pogt No.
breather 240
data, tabulated 241
description 240
tie rod replacement 241
toe-in
adjustment 243
general , 243
Front-mounted winch
brake adjustments
drag brake adjustment 326
worm shaft brake adjustment. 325
cable replacement
installation 328
removal 328
data, tabulated 324
description 324
installation 327
removal 326
shear pin replacement 329
FSMWO and major unit assembly
replacement record
description 97
early modifications 97
TM 9-811
GCont'd fog* No.
Generating systemCont'd
generator
description 193
removal 193
replacement 193
generator regulator
description 195
removal 196
installation 197
Homs 216
Page No.
oil pressure gage
installation 370
removal 370
speedometer
installation 370
removal 370
tachometer
installation 370
removal 370
temperature gage
installation 371
removal 371
viscometer
installation 371
removal 371
Intake and exhaust systems
air cleaner
installation 171
removal . 171
servicing air cleaner 170
description
air cleaner 170
exhaust system 170
exhaust system
exhaust tube replacement. ... 171
muffler replacement 172
tail pipe replacement 173
Introduction to manual
scope 5
Lighting system 203
Lubrication
introduction ^ 77
Lubrication Guide
general 77
lubrication notes 77
supplies 77
Ignition system
coil and spark plugs
coil 191
spark plugs 192
data, tabulated :. . . 187
description 187
distributor
adjusting points 189
description 188
installation 191
installation of points 188
removal 190
timing 188
Inspection and preventive maintenance
service
after-operation and weekly service
TM 9-811
INDEX
Page No.
Organization preventive maintenance
services
road test chart 106
chassis, body, and attachments 111
tools and equipment 118
second echelon preventive main-
tenance services 104
Organization tools and equipment
special tools 98
O Page No.
Oil pressure gage 370
Operation under unusual conditions
operation in desert or sandy terrain
air cleaners 64
cooling system 64
general 64
special operating instructions 65
tires 64
operation in extreme cold
antifreeze 56
chassis lubricants 56
cold weather accessories 59
engine lubrication 55
gasoline for low temperatures 54
general 54
general conditions 58
other lubrication points 57
protection of electrical system 57
starting and operation 59
stopping 59
transmission, transfer case and
differentials 56
operation in extreme heat
general 63
overheating 63
special maintenance 64
operation in mud
general 65
hints for operation 65
preparation 65
operation in snow
drifts 62
general 62
heavy snow 62
light snow 62
stalled vehicles 62
steep inclines 63
operation on ice
frozen terrain 62
general 60
recoveries 61
starting and accelerating on ice 60
steep inclines 62
stopping on ice 61
vehicle speed 60
vehicle stalled 61
Power take-off
data, tabulated 321
description 321
installation 321
removal 321
Propeller shafts and universal joints
description 233
installation 237
removal 233
Radiator 177
TM 9-811
969A WRFCKER, 970A PONTON, AND 972 DUMP)
R Cont'd Page No.
References
explanatory publications
general 384
maintenance and repair 384
protection of materiel 385
related technical manuals.... 384
storage and shipment 385
standard nomenclature lists. . . . 384
Seat cushions and backrests 360
Sheet metal
battery box
installation 366
removal 366
fenders
installation 365
removal 365
fender shields
installation 364
removal 364
hood
installation 363
removal 362
running boards
installation 366
removal 366
splash shields
installation 367
removal 367
Shipment and temporary storage
general instructions 379
loading and blocking for rail
shipment
facilities for loading 381
preparation 380
securing vehicles 381
shipping data 383
preparation for temporary stor-
age or domestic shipment 379
Speedometer 370
Starting system
cranking motor
description 199
installation 199
removal 199
data, tabulated 199
description 199
Page No.
series-parallel switch
description 201
installation 202
removal 202
solenoid switch
description 200
installation 201
removal 200
Steering
adjustments 308
data, tabulated 308
description 308
drag link
installation 310
removal 310
operation 308
steering Pitman arm
installation 311
removal 311
TM 9-811
INDEX
T Pog
Tachometer
Thermostat
Tools and equipment stowage on
vehicles
care of tools and equipment. . . .
general
vehicle equipment
vehicle spare parts
vehicle tools
Transfer
description
installation
removal
transfer breather
cleaning
description
Transmission
data, tabulated
description
installation
removal
Trouble shooting
air compressor unit.
axles
brakes
clutch
cooling system
dump pump and hoist
engine
fuel system
generating system
ignition system
introduction
lubricating system
propeller shafts
starting system
steering
transfer case ,
transmission
winch
wrecker equipment
RAPDIIJUN4S 3MR
>No.
370
183
96
85
87
96
85
226
231
229
227
227
219
219
223
219
133
130
131
129
125
133
119
124

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f

WAR DEPARTMENTTECHNICAL MANUAL

4:JON, 6x6 TRUCKS

AND 972 DUMP)

Generated on 2013-06-12 07:42 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243767 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

WAR DEPARTMENT TECHNICAL MANUAL

4-TON, 6x6 TRUCKS

AND 972 DUMP)

tains pertinent information from TM 10-1297, TM 10-1335, TM 10-1517,

TM 10-1533, TM 10-1605, and TM 10-1607, and, together with

TM 9-1811 and TM 9-1832A, supersedes these manuals.

Generated on 2013-06-12 07:43 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243767 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

Washington 25, D. C, 25 January 1944

TM 9-811, 4-ton, 6x6 Trucks (Diamond T Models 968A Cargo, 969A

tion and guidance of all concerned.

[A. G. 300.7 (3 June 43)]

BY ORDER OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR:

The Adjutant General.

(For explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6)

Generated on 2013-06-12 07:43 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243767 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

PART ONEVEHICLE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Description and tabulated data

Driving controls and operation

Operation under unusual

Inspection and preventive

Tools and equipment stowage

PART TWOVEHICLE MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

FSMWO and major unit as-

sembly replacement record.

Organizational tools and equip-

New vehicle run-in test . . .

Organization preventive main-

Engine maintenance and ad-

Engine removal and

Generated on 2013-06-12 07:44 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243767 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

4-TON, 6x6 TRUCKS (DIAMOND T MODELS 968A CARGO,

969A WRECKER, 970A PONTON, AND 972 DUMP)

Batteries and lighting system .

Propeller shafts and universal

Frame and bodies

Wrecker air compressor

Dump pump and hoist

Generated on 2013-06-12 07:45 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243767 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

PART ONEVEHICLE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

a. *This technical manual'is published for the information and

maintenance of this materiel.

b. In addition to a description of the 4-ton, 6x6 truck (Diamond T,

this manual contains technical information required for the identifica-

ating instructions. Part Two, section IX through section XLIII, con-

tains vehicle maintenance instructions for the using arm personnel

charged with the responsibility of doing maintenance work within their

c. In all cases where the nature of the repair, modifications, or

adjustment is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the responsible

ordnance service should be informed, so that trained personnel with