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25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle

by irwinner on September 13, 2007 Table of Contents 25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: 25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: The Parts... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: The Chamber... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Gun Body... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 4: The Stock and The Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 4 4 6 9

Step 5: The Bolt and Barrel Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 6: Scope Mount and Other Add-ons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Step 7: Trigger assemlby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

Intro: 25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle

***Disclaimer*** The following is for informational purposes only, i take no responsibility for what you do with this knowledge. i can not be held responsible for any property or medical damages caused by this weapon. i would advise you to check your local laws. These types of guns are illegal in some areas, and i would highly advise you against building one of these in said areas. Pneumatic rifles can be very powerful and should never be pointed at a person or animal. Lastly when dealing with pneumatics never over pressurize them and always use NFS-PW pipe (as apposed to DWV) well before we begin i must state a few things... -PVC can only be used at half or less than half the pressure rating stamped on the pipe when pressurized gases are used in the pipe -i would suggest never pressurizing this cannon above 150 psi, remember its only plastic -never store any type of PVC pneumatic with pressure still in it -always allow a full 24hours for PVC glue to dry before pressurizing -when building pneumatics always use metal or PVC pipe (never ABS) -PVC is shock sensitive meaning if its dropped on a hard its very likely it will be damaged and it would be very dangerous to pressurize after damaged -PVC becomes very brittle below 32 degrees (Fahrenheit) and is very likely to explode if pressured in such conditions -when building pneumatics pressure rated pipe should always be used (none of that cell core or DWV crap) -the most important part of any pneumatic are the PVC welds AND I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU READ THIS TUTORIAL before you even think about starting this. -when you are dealing with high velocity projectiles always remember you safety glasses -always be sure of your back stop when shooting any form of rifle, pistol, gun, bow.... anything that can fire some vague form of projectile -and use common sense! -do not use un-regulated HPA or CO2 in a PVC cannon ever they are stored at to high of pressures to be safe in PVC, but if you have a properly regulated setup they can be used ( if you lower the pressure to about 100psi) Now onto the good part... this is my entry for the launch it challenge, it is a 25MM Pneumatic Cannon. it has 2.5 foot long one inch diameter barrel with a custom bolt action mechinism, of course we have the 3-9X40 sniper scope, and a 1" modified sprinkler valve as the primary firing valve. The Video... Video
invalid movie: http://youtube.com

remember always wear safety goggles, you never know where or when something will ricochet especially when its traveling at 300+FPS Fun Fact: PVC shards can't be picked up by X-Rays (this is a safety tip! don't rush or you'll get a PVC shard in you and you probably wont get it out. im not saying you should sneak one of these into your luggage and go threw airport security. it would be way to big any way) better video coming soon If you like this instructable please register and vote for it in the launch it challenge (by click the plus icon next to the title) DETAILED SPECS power source------------------compressed air power source pressure-----100psi chamber volume--------------45 ci (approx.) barrel volume------------------25 ci (approx.) c/b ratio--------------------------1.8 to 1(approx.) firing valve----------------------pneumatically actuated sprinkler valve (a "modded sprinkler" valve) pilot valve-----------------------blow gun valve fill valve--------------------------female quick disconnect fire rate--------------------------single shot, bolt action caliber---------------------------25MM ( one inch) projectile velocity-------------unknown (coming soon) effective range----------------unknown (coming soon) maximum range-------------unknown (coming soon) optics---------------------------3-9X40MM rifle scope primary material used------PVC pipe I WOULD SUGGEST YOU DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE UNDER TAKING THIS PROJECT, LOOK INTO THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PIPE AND THERE RATINGS, HOW TO SOLVENT WELD PVC (THIS IS A MUST), HOW TO PROPERLY DRILL AND THREAD HOLES FOR FITTINGS, THE TYPE OF CONDITIONS PVC CAN BE USED AND STORED IN. THE MAJORITY OF THIS INFORMATION IS CONTAINED WITHIN THIS INSTRUCTABLE BUT IT IS BECOMING CLEAR THAT MANY OF YOU ARE NOT READING ALL OF IT. I HAVE ONE FINAL SUGGESTION BUILT A BASIC PNEUMATIC OR COMBUSTION FIRST IF A BASIC CANNON FAILS IT WILL BE LESS DANGEROUS PS - DON'T ATTEMPT THIS AT ALL IF YOU HAVE NO COMMON SENSE OR A LOW IQ

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http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

Step 1: The Parts...

we will be making this particular pneumatic out of mostly PVC so it is relatively inexpensive to make. here is what your going to need. Parts... ( 1x ) 2" PVC cap ( 1x ) 2" PVC coupling ( 1x ) 2" to 1" PVC bushing ( 2x ) 1.5" PVC couplings ( 2x ) 1.5" to 1" PVC bushings ( 1x ) 1" PVC tee ( 2x ) 1" PVC 90 degree elbows ( 2x ) 1" PVC male threaded adapters ( 1x ) 1" to .75" bushing ( 1x ) .75" PVC cap ( 1x ) .75" PVC tee ( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows ( 2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows ( 1x ) female quick disconnect 1/4" ( 2x ) 3/8" by 1/4" compression fittings ( 1x ) blowgun valve ( 1x ) 1" sprinkler vlave a few inches of 1/4" ID flexible tubbing assorted bits of 2", 1.5", 1", and .75" pipe Tools... a dremel a band saw a drill (preferably a drill press) PVC primer (make sure its primer and not cleaner or it could end badly) PVC glue

Image Notes 1. a pre-modded sprinkler valve 2. quick disconnect 3. compression fitting

Step 2: The Chamber...

REMEMBER READ THIS BEFORE STARTING and read all of it! The chamber in a pneumatic cannon is a buffer zone between the valve and the bike pump/ compressor. It allows a large amount of air to be stored and exhausted very quickly when fired. this is my chamber, it is a 12 inch long piece of 2" PVC pipe with a 2" cap on one side and a 2" coupling on the other, attached to the 2" coupling is a 2" to 1" reducing bushing. After the chamber was glued i let it sit for an hour (so the glue could partially cure) then i drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of the 2" cap so i could thread in the brass quick disconnect. do not use any Teflon tape on this fitting, if it starts leaking put some epoxy putty or JB weld on the section where the threads meet the chamber.

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Image Notes 1. cutting 2" pipe using a hack saw, a band saw would be faster but the hack saw was easier to find

Image Notes 1. 2" to 1" reducing bushing 2. 2" coupling 3. 2" cap 4. 12 inches of 2" pipe

Image Notes 1. a properly primmed joint that is about to be glued, note the blue tape that prevents the ugly purple primmer from dipping down the pipe

Image Notes 1. the 2" cap glued on

Image Notes

Image Notes

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1. the last part to be glued to the chamber

1. completely glued chamber

Image Notes 1. 1/2" hole being drilled on a high speed drill press with a vice grip

Image Notes 1. yay its finished

Step 3: Gun Body...

the gun body connect the chamber to the valve and all the other parts of the gun (trigger, stock, ect) first cut a piece of PVC double the length of a 1" socket and glue it into one of the 1" PVC elbows. then insert a a long piece of 1" pipe into the 1" elbow and the 1" tee( but don't glue it) this will help you get the joint between the 1" elbow and 1" tee perfectly straight. now glue the short piece of pipe sticking out of the the 1" elbow into the base of the 1" tee, use the long pieces of pipe to make the joint as straight as possible or the barrel will be off to the left or right of the gun. next is a rather odd step listen closely, i want you to glue the outside of the 3/4" end cap into the the back of the 1" tee. there are two things you want to remember here not all end caps will work do a dry test before you glue it and this is the part where the stock is connected to the body so make sure you insert the cap the right way (so the socket part is facing outwards making it possible to insert a piece of 3/4" pipe). next cut 7" piece of 1" pipe and glue it into the remaining socket of the 1" elbow.now cut a short piece of pipe and connect one of the male adapters to the remaining socket of the 1" Tee. the last piece your going to need a dremel for you need to modify one of the 1" 90 degree elbows to it can slid along a 1" piece of pipe relatively easy. sadly there is no trick to doing this your just going to need to take of a little material at a time until you get it just right. once the elbow has been modified glue the 1" to 3/4" reducing bushing into its unmodified socket then slide it onto the 7" long piece of pipe which is now glued in place. then glue the other side of the 7" long pipe to the chamber. you have now finished the body of the gun.

Image Notes 1. modified 1" 90 degree elbow 2. 1" 90 degree elbow with short pipe glued into it 3. 1" Tee 4. 3/4" cap 5. 1" male threaded adapter 6. the chamber

Image Notes 1. 90 degree elbow with a short piece of pipe glued into it

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Image Notes 1. this joint shouldn't be glued (yet) 2. this joint shouldn't be glued (yet) 3. 1" elbow 4. 1" Tee

Image Notes 1. once this joint is glued the two pieces of pipe can be remved

Image Notes 1. 3/4 cap with the OUTSIDE primed 2. back of 1" tee

Image Notes 1. 3/4" cap glued in place with socket facing out

Image Notes

Image Notes

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1. this is a joint thats is about to be glued note the use of tape again 2. 7" long piece of 1" diameter pipe

1. 7" long pipe glued in place

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow 2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow 2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow 2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow slid over the 7" long piece of pipe

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Image Notes 1. male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued in it

Image Notes 1. joint that is about to be glued

Image Notes 1. male threaded adapter glued in place 2. preparing to glue chamber and body toogether

Step 4: The Stock and The Valve

now build the stock, you should be able to figure it out using the pictures, i don't have any specific length measures becuase i just kinda guessed. the stock is one of the few thing that do not need to be glued although it would be a good idea to do so. also you can use whatever design you want be creative find a combination that looks cool. in case you wonder this is what you needed the ( 1x ) .75" PVC tee,( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows, ( 2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows were for... onto the valve, my valve is an orbit jar top that i have modded. normally it would be triggered by an electronic pulse but this does not allow the valve to open quickly so i modified to to run completely pneumatically , there are many tutorials on how to do this for example here is one here is another. if you cant figure out how to mod the valve i suppose you can buy one from here , i know the guy who runs that place hes not going to scam you and his work is very good quality. anyway to install a sprinkler valve on this particular cannon aply a good amount of Teflon tape to the 1" threaded adapter then remove the top of the valve and screw on the valve itself.then go ahead and put back on the top. do not put on the blowgun as of yet. side note: be sure to put the sprinkler valve on the right way, becuase it will only work in one direction. there should be an arrow some where on it indication the direction of flow, remember the air is going to be flowing from the chamber to the barrel

Image Notes 1. stock made entirely from 3/4" PVC

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Image Notes 1. part of the compression fitting 2. other part of compression fitting, note the order i put the part on the hose 3. don't use this tubing its not pressure rated instead use the more opaque kind which is rated to a much higher psi. i have since replaced this on my gun

Image Notes 1. compression fitting screwed on to the valve

Image Notes 1. applying Teflon to the 1" male adpater

Image Notes 1. valve with top removed so it could be screwed on to the body of the gun

Image Notes 1. valve with top put back on

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Image Notes 1. How a Sprinkler Valve works

Step 5: The Bolt and Barrel Assembly

in this particular bolt assembly the barrel moves with the bolt which could cause accuracy problems if the bushing is not modified correctly. but anyway its a modified version of THIS . the first thing you need to do is attach a 14 inch long piece of 1.5", then use epoxy putty to attach it to a piece of wood. This will make it a lot easier to cut, then you need draw a box that is about 10 inches long (refer to the pictures if you are confused). this will be the line you cut along with the band saw after the box has been cut out you will need to cut off the last inch on each side where the epoxy was holding the pipe to the wood. after the excess has been cut off each side attach a 1.5" coupling to each side. next you will need to modify the 1.5" to 1" bushings so that a piece of pipe can be slide completely through them with relative ease. in a stock bushing there is a stopper at the end off the bushing that prevents pipe from going all the way through. this will need to be ground off with a dremel, you might also have to also slightly enlarge the 1" socket of the bushing also. after the bushing have been modified glue them into the 1.5" bushings. then take a1.5inch long piece of 1" PVC and glue it into the 1" male threaded adapter and insert it into one of the bushings (it doesn't matter which). then cut a small notch into one side off the end of the bolt assembly (this doesn't make much sense so just look at the picture) now we must build the the actual bolt handle; it's one of the simpler pieces. it is a hose clamp with a hole drilled through it and a dowel held in place with a wood screw. it does take a bit a measuring and test fitting to get the hole in the right place, but its worth the time to get it right. after you have screwed the handle onto the clamp insert the barrel into the bushing then put the hose clamp on it loosely. now force the barrel as far back as it can go, you should notice that it can actually go into the other bushing and it is very important that it does. once this is complete, tighten the clamp onto the barrel very tightly. note : you can make the barrel pretty much however long as you want it. mine was 2 and a half feet of 1" pipe

Image Notes 1. epoxy putty 2. epoxy putty

Image Notes 1. the "box" you need to cut out approx. 10 inches long

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Image Notes 1. i removed the PVC from the wood using a 5lb weight but it would have been easier to cut off the last inch on both sides

Image Notes 1. the cut marks 2. cut mark

Image Notes 1. modified piece of 1.5" inch pipe 2. 1.5" coupling 3. 1.5" coupling 4. 1.5" to 1" bushing 5. 1.5" to 1" bushing

Image Notes 1. pipe with couplings glued on

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Image Notes 1. 1" male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued into it 2. 1.5" to 1" bushing

Image Notes 1. inserting the bushing into the coupling

Image Notes 1. stock bushing note the small ring in the 1" socket 2. modified bushing with ring removed by dremel, it has also been enlarged a bit (hard to tell)

Image Notes 1. the hose clamp as the hole is being drilled (1/8" bit)

Image Notes 1. hose clamp 2. screw 3. dowel

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Image Notes 1. what it looks like after everything has been tightened and the dowel is cut down to the right length

Image Notes 1. insert the barrel like shown before putting on the hose clamp

Image Notes 1. finished bolt assembly note the small notch i cut with a dremel that is used to lock the bolt in postion

Image Notes 1. bolt in the forward position

Image Notes 1. hose clamp tightly on the barrel 2. excess bit of hose clamp, can be cut off using wire cutters or tin snips

Image Notes 1. the bolt on the gun yow may need to take out the barrel to screw the bolt assembly into the sprinkler valve (which means removing the hose clamp bolt

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handle temporarily)

Step 6: Scope Mount and Other Add-ons

in this step i will discuss the additional parts that are not necessarily required but add a nice touch. my biggest recommendation is paint it makes the cannon look so much better, it makes it look truly intimidating. if you do decide to paint it i would suggest using Krylon Fusion for plastic it gives a terrific finish. i went with ultra flat black but i bet a sweet camo paint job would look really nice on this. when you do paint i would suggest protecting the first 12inches of the barrel other wise the paint will make the bolt very hard to operate (found out the hard way so don't get any paint on it) barrel supports are small pieces of wood (in most cases) cut to the profile of the pipe, they add stability to the launcher when fired and take a great deal of stress off the joints. i would highly recommend you make some for you own safety. i traced the outline of the pipes onto card board then transfered that to a piece of pine that was cut by my band saw to make mine. next up is the scope, my particular scope was made for an airsoft gun (almost identical replicas of real guns ) and it used an RIS mounting system. this meant i needed a RIS rail to put on the body of the rifle. for me RIS rails are very common and easy to find becuase i happen to have about 10 semi working airsoft guns (i got them in trade for a piston valve). if you don't have any buy a crappy gun for $10-$20 off hobbytron.com or a similar supplier. the RIS rail was attached to the gun using 2 hose clamps it took a bit off adjusting but eventually i could shoot the gun pretty accurately. additional items to consider... a "noise reducing barrel extension" *cough* silencer *cough* but if your caught with that your screwed and that is exactly why im not telling you how to make one. a bi-pod, i have one from an AK support type gun but cant find a good way to mount it laser sight, well it would only be useful at night

Image Notes 1. note the blue tape protecting all threads and open pipe 2. blue tape on quick disconnect

Image Notes 1. barrel support

Image Notes 1. barrel support on the gun

Image Notes 1. painted barrel support

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Image Notes 1. RIS rail from a cheap $10 mp7 2. hose clamp 3. hose clamp

Image Notes 1. RIS rail on the gun 2. sprinkler valve 3. stock

Step 7: Trigger assemlby

the trigger assembly consists of only a few parts but ti requires heavy modification. the first step is modifying a short 4 inch long piece of 3/4" pipe. you need to cut two slots in it length wise so a blow gun valve can be inserted into it. it is rather hard to describe so just look at the pictures. the next part is the 3/4" 45 degree elbow, you need to make a hole in it so you can connect a hose to the blow gun. once again refer to the pictures of this piece also but before you cut the hole remember to glue in a short piece of PVC into th elbow. after the pieces have been modified connect the elbow up to the rest of the gun (using the 90 degree 1" elbow that was modified earlier) and hold in in place with a screw of some sorts (so the trigger doesn't twist to the side as your firing). once the elbow is secured on the gun feed the hose through the hole in it and connect up the blow gun valve. then your pretty much done, congratulation's you have a 25MM sniper capable of doing some serious damage If you liked my instructable be sure to vote for it in the instructables launch it challenge

Image Notes 1. standard piece of 3/4" PVC (4 inches long) 2. modified 3/4" PVC

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Image Notes 1. stock 3/4" elbow

Image Notes 1. elbow with a short piece of pipe connected to it

Image Notes 1. the hole, note its location and angle in relation to the short piece of pipe, its very important

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Image Notes 1. blow gun valve in the modified piece of PVC (which is now painted) with a strange type of compression fitting which makes it a lot easier to hook up the hose in the next step

Image Notes 1. elbow in the gun

Image Notes 1. IMPORTANT : don't use this type of flexible tubing (the very clear kind) it isn't pressure rated and if it burst it will cause the gun to fire automatically. instead use the more opaque kind (almost white in color) its rated to 125psi

Image Notes 1. the hole thing connected up

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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 899 comments

cohlms says:
what does it fire or shoot ?

Feb 25, 2011. 10:45 AM REPLY

bearzcrazy54 says:
how much was this whole gun? can i use a paintball co2 tank instead of the PVC pipe

Feb 14, 2011. 5:05 PM REPLY

LiliaBillia says:
Thank you for the information! I was looking for more of your typical scope mount, but a little extra knowledge doesn't hurt!

Feb 11, 2011. 7:20 AM REPLY

vermeu says:
This sight is for real?

Feb 9, 2011. 8:19 AM REPLY

hungyhipo 2 says:
I know this is not relevant but what scope is it, who is the maker, and where did you get it.

Feb 7, 2011. 4:41 PM REPLY

fernandojuanjaimearturo says:
100psi ???? nooo or....

Feb 6, 2011. 11:27 AM REPLY

SanAndres says:

Jan 25, 2011. 8:27 AM REPLY Hi irwinner I'm Andres from Ecuador....I have a problem.....Where I live I can't find the sprinkler valve, could you say me if there are any place where I can buy that in the web, and, of course, that they could send me the product to Ecuador....thanks...!! I'm sorry my english is bad.. Jan 11, 2011. 12:22 PM REPLY Hey im making an airgun/rifle instructable soon. Ill comment when I post it. Thanks to irwinner(author of this instructable) for the inspiration to this idea for it. its going to be awesome

ostomesto says:

ostomesto says:

Jan 12, 2011. 5:12 PM REPLY ok it's up and posted and it's AWESOME. It's called the NAR-V1 which stands for pNuematic Air Rifle version 1. Thanks Irwinner agian you gave me the idea. Check it out rate comment and subscribe

dinu555 says:
Hey chief could you tell me how to make this work actually i.e. umm how does this thing get its power

Dec 19, 2010. 7:38 AM REPLY

will772 says:

Dec 20, 2010. 4:36 PM REPLY It gets air pressure built up in the chamber; that little pipe under the barrel, then when you pull the trigger it releases the sprinkler valve that is holding back the pressurized air. That pretty much is how the whole thing works, you can do it with tennis balls, potatoes, pretty much anything as long as you make the barrel big enough and the PSI reading high enough.

will772 says:
What kind of projectile does it fire? Airsoft or other?

Dec 16, 2010. 4:40 PM REPLY

celticrush97 says:
whats the total length of this gun?

Dec 9, 2010. 10:59 AM REPLY

celticrush97 says:
also what is the total length of the stock?

Dec 10, 2010. 1:58 PM REPLY

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danzo227 says:
hi can you give me the name of the valae that you youesd thanks

Dec 10, 2010. 11:35 AM REPLY

CaseBoy says:
would it be possible to do the same thing with a 1/2"barrel

Dec 3, 2010. 2:20 PM REPLY

ostomesto says:

Nov 30, 2010. 5:30 PM REPLY hey will someone please help. i was going to make my own design of a air rifle but then i saw some of the designs other people had and ditched my old idea. But now im stuck. should i go for a wrap around or a straight barrel gun. I want to be able to add modifications and grips and crap like that. which way should i go for this.btw i have made a couple decent spud gun before so i am familer with all this but i just cant choose Jun 28, 2010. 9:47 PM REPLY Hey can anyone please give me a hand, i have made my gun but even at 85 psi the diaphram wont pop up and let all the pressure through and i dunno y. its not the spring cos i took it out and it made no difference, u said u used 40 psi maybe the rubber is stiffer or the whole in the diaphram is too big just wanna get opinions.

brum says:

benduy says:
CHECK THE AIRFLOW

Nov 8, 2010. 9:56 PM REPLY

brum says:
This project cost me aproximately $80AU

Jun 28, 2010. 9:51 PM REPLY

brum says:

Jun 30, 2010. 5:13 AM REPLY Never mind i found that the hole in the diaphragm to let the air through and where the guide rod goes was to big a gap so i filled the sides of the guide rod with hot glue, and um, WOW WHAT A HOME-MADE WEAPON, CRAZY POWERFUL AT 80-85 PSI, HAVEN'T TRIED ABOVE THAT (compressor restrictions) highly recommend these concepts but be creative and come up with a slightly different way of doing it like I did. GOOD LUCK TO ANYONE TRYING THIS! WELL WORTH IT WHEN U GET IT RIGHT...

smartdanceer16 says:

Jun 17, 2010. 2:24 PM REPLY Are there ways to edit/modify this to make it shoot 22mm ammo? I don't know much about all this stuff and I'm just helping a friend. Please help me(:

benduy says:
rap it in duct tape, dude that would still be dangeroius

Nov 8, 2010. 9:43 PM REPLY

qwertyman10 says:
hey, before you do that, couldnt you just use a sabot? it would prob be just as powerful and much quicker.

Jul 11, 2010. 12:22 PM REPLY

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

polabearboi says:

Jun 18, 2010. 7:15 PM REPLY Yes. You can forgoe the bolt system and just screw the threaded adapter into the other side of the sprinkler valve and our of that put a short piece of 1" pipe and then on the end of that pipe put whatever an reducing bushing to whatever size pipe you want.

smartdanceer16 says:
Thank you so much! I'll let him know what you said, and hopefully he can do it(:

Jun 21, 2010. 2:57 PM REPLY

polabearboi says:
no problem.

Jun 21, 2010. 3:07 PM REPLY

wolfgun says:
I LOVE THIS GUN I MADE!!

Nov 2, 2010. 2:28 AM REPLY

ericquins says:
Looks cool and nice yet a little complicated. A pro work indeed. You can also check mine.

Sep 17, 2010. 8:28 PM REPLY

abyrne45 says:
How much did this thing cost to build.

Sep 12, 2010. 12:37 PM REPLY

[corosive] says:
whut! so cool. where did you get the scope?

Aug 18, 2010. 8:26 PM REPLY

fredyvega10 says:
pero como lo consigo en lowes o en home depot como se llama para ir a lowes o home depot

Aug 6, 2010. 5:19 PM REPLY

fredyvega10 says:
me podrian decir donde conseguir esa valvula verde o decir como se llama?????? porfavor

Jul 21, 2010. 10:35 AM REPLY

BowHunter4life says:

Jul 29, 2010. 11:50 PM REPLY es un modelo Orbit Agua-maestra 57020 con un adaptador dual macho en el extremo y los agujeros se llenan de JB Weld para llenar los agujeros para evitar fugas usted lo puede encontrar en Lowes o Home Depot.

arb1ter says:
Ive been looking for a good design to make an airsoft sniper off of and i found it! Going to make so works with airsoft!

Jul 28, 2010. 1:24 PM REPLY

iiiifreak says:

Jul 26, 2010. 3:48 PM REPLY hello, I built the gun to what I thought was all according to specs but when I try to pressurize it, the air just circulates completely through the gun im assuming it has something to do with the sprinkler valve but I cant find the problem i removed the solenoid, plugged that hole drilled through the top and screwed in the barbed adapter any suggestions?

finmonster says:
nice

Jul 20, 2010. 7:19 AM REPLY

fredyvega10 says:
PODRIAS PONER LO QUE SE NESESITA EN ESPAOL PORFAVOR

Jul 17, 2010. 5:20 PM REPLY

sharkkiller says:
i made 1 in around an hour with smalller barrel hooked it up to air pressurizer thing killed a blackbird

Jul 15, 2010. 7:04 AM REPLY

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

samdaman says:
could you have a smaller barrell and turn that into a really powerful paintball gun?

Jul 11, 2010. 8:22 PM REPLY

qwertyman10 says:

Jul 11, 2010. 12:20 PM REPLY Do you think it would be possible to add interchangeable barrels, like a 1/2 inch tube for shooting a piece of rebar and a threaded connection for adding another tube for firing something like a soda can? as long as its possible, i can figure it out for myself.

poosh507 says:
COOL!!!!!!!

Jul 1, 2010. 3:44 AM REPLY

tepetty4 says:
you have to use what ever the sprinkler valve is rated to

Jul 5, 2010. 6:14 AM REPLY

polabearboi says:
whats the best way to modify that 3/4" piece of pipe?

Jun 19, 2010. 7:27 AM REPLY

bombmaker2 says:
I used a scrollsaw for most of the cutting then when one slot got longer, I dremeled the rest out.

Jun 23, 2010. 6:07 PM REPLY

PVCArmory says:
What is the estimated price of all the parts in USD if you have none of the parts already?

Jun 7, 2008. 3:06 PM REPLY

GhostSade says:

Jun 15, 2010. 5:24 PM REPLY I didn't really have many tools, I had to buy the dremel for this, plus everything else. I also had to buy two sprinkler valves, because I really badly messed up the first one. I spent like $130-$155 USD I think.

willdebeers says:
$80

Mar 3, 2010. 11:20 AM REPLY

whitish says:
when i got most of the parts from dixieline (not counting the sprinkley valve) i spent $50.21.

Jun 13, 2008. 10:06 PM REPLY

raf34 says:

May 26, 2008. 9:06 PM REPLY i found a way to silence the ugly wonk noise when you fire. you take a 1" coupling and you shave the outer layer w/ a dremmel or sand it until it can slide in and out of the barrel holding place. you glue it to the barrel, on the part that goes into the 1 1/2" pipe.I recommend you use water proof grease found in plumbing section so it slides in and out of barrel holding area. this way makes it alot more are tight an gets rid of the wonk noise

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http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/