Fall 2008 Natural Farmer
Fall 2008 Natural Farmer
Fall 2008 Natural Farmer
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Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 7
by Steve Gilman
NOFA Interstate Council Policy Coordinator
Theres nothing like a southerly trip to put our
northeastern summer bouts of heat and humidity in
perspective. For me, July in Washington, DC was
just plain hot and humid, although the residents
were shrugging it off -- while bracing for the real
stuff that they say hits hard in August and its
no wonder our legislators vacate and head for the
homeland. Suitably, there were ample hot topics as
well for the back-to-back National Organic Action
Plan (NOAP) and National Organic Coalition
(NOC) meetings we came to town for.
Although the member organizations of the National
Organic Coalition are from far-fung locations in
the South, North and Midwest, DC is an appropriate
central meeting place. In addition to being the seat
of government its the home base of the Center
for Food Safety, Food and Water Watch, Beyond
Pesticides and Union of Concerned Scientists
as well as NOCs Congressional representative
working on the Hill. The other attending NOC
members from the hinterlands represented
NOFA, MOFGA in Maine, Midwest Organic
and Sustainable Education Services (MOSES) in
Minnesota, Northeast Organic Dairy Producers
Alliance (NODPA) and Equal Exchange in
Massachusetts, Rural Advancement Foundation
International (RAFI) in North Carolina and the
National Cooperative Grocers Association in
Iowa. New York Stater Liana Hoodes, formerly
a coordinator for the National Campaign for
Sustainable Agricultures Organic Committee is
employed as sole part-time staff.
NOAP
The two days of meetings were held in the newly
appointed, well air-conditioned offces of the Union
of Concerned Scientists on K Street. The frst day,
July 16
th
was devoted to NOAP a RAFI-led project
headed up by Michael Sligh that had its road tour
launch at the 2006 NOFA Summer Conference
and has been roaming the country for the past 2
years. Its mission has been to gather input from
the grassroots organic community farmers,
producers, consumers, trade, urban and rural groups,
and industry giving everyone an opportunity to
articulate their vision for the future of organic food
and farming over the coming decades. Additional
participants came in for the NOAP meeting,
including reps from the Southeast African American
Farmers Organic Network (SAAFON); the Organic
Farming Research Foundation (OFRF) and the
Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (SAC) while
NOFAs Elizabeth Henderson, a primary NOAP
organizer, few in from the farm just for the day.
In addition to the job of collating all the input from
the listening sessions held at eleven sites across the
U.S., the main task now for NOAP is to put together
a 2 day Summit conference to be held February
25-26 2009 just prior to the 20
th
Midwest MOSES
Organic Farming Conference (the largest organic
gathering in the country with over 2400 participants
last February.) The purpose of the Summit is to
coalesce a broad set of goals derived from the
grassroots input and to identify mechanisms for
meeting those goals, along with setting benchmarks
for evaluating them. Based on an Organic Action
Plan process that has been already well-developed
in European Countries, NOAP seeks to develop
governmental and non-governmental goals as to
where organic should go and how to get there,
using such benchmarks as increases in the number
of organic farmers, acreage, sales, and ability of
domestic producers to supply domestic markets to
help gauge progress.
NOAP is further committed to fnding resources to
help fund grassroots participation scholarships for
the 2009 Summit. The outreach and recruitment
efforts include providing written fund-raising
Hotter than DC in July:
NOFA Policy Report
materials and working with regional and national
organizations to connect with a list of potential
funders and building capacity by establishing
more collaborative funding relationships. The
Summit process aims to further engage the organic
community with a re-evaluation in 2011 while
keeping an eye toward major policy modifcations in
the 2012 farm Bill.
The NOAP Summit has set a target of bringing in
200 attendees from grassroots organizations around
the country, including someone from each of the
NOFA chapters. The Summit organizers are also in
the process of completing a Draft Plan derived from
the listening sessions that will be sent out for review
by the participants prior to the gathering with the
intention of honing it into a fnal document over the
two day meeting. Planning-wise, February is right
around the corner. Midst the sweltering DC heat,
some meeting attendees almost longingly recalled
being snowed in for days at a previous wintertime
meeting in LaCrosse -- and advised participants
to make air travel plans through Milwaukee, not
Chicago.
NOC Meeting
Day Two was set aside for the National Organic
Coalition meeting, and despite building in a
working lunch, the Agenda seemed full enough for
several days work. NOC also meets via regularly
scheduled monthly conference calls and had sent
out homework before the meeting so participants
would be prepared to address pressing questions.
The coalition members were joined by Emily Brown
Rosen, Jim Riddle and Roger Blobaum highly
experienced organic specialists who serve as NOC
advisers on various initiatives. And legislative
coordinator, Steve Etka, came with binder-sized
handbooks analyzing the wins, losses and draws
of the NOC organic initiatives in the recently
completed Farm Bill.
A presentation by the membership committee
started the day. NOC is a looking to expand, but
is concerned with keeping its core values and
quick-response abilities intact. Discussion included
defning membership parameters and looking into
creating a second tier NOC network an affliate
membership that could bring in a greater number
of participants, with decisions still in the hands of
the Board but further development and resolution
of this issue was charted for further discussion.
The committee was also charged with developing
membership qualifcations and recruitment criteria
for the next meeting in December.
NOC has also taken over the important function
of hosting the members of the organic community
attending the National Organic Standards Board
(NOSB) meetings that used to be handled by
the now moribund National Campaign Organic
Committee. In addition to providing participants an
opportunity to coordinate meeting testimony and
strategy it is an invaluable networking occasion, as
people come from all over the country.
Implementation time
After the group reviewed the draft budget-in-
progress, our Washington representative Steve Etka
handed out the hefty Farm Bill handbooks. After
three years of work (the scorecard of the NOC
initiatives is nicely laid out at the NOC website at
http://www.nationalorganiccoalition.org) the next
critical step is implementation making sure the
monies are handled in accord with the legislation
and the stated initiatives are indeed realized. Cost
Share provisions for covering the government
mandated certifcation costs was a big win, for
example, with a total of $32 million designated to
compensate eligible small scale farmers around
the country. Some funding is already being
distributed with the remainder by September but
implementation details such as who is the receiver
in each state and the National Organic Programs
(NOP) ability to execute the program still have to be
worked out.
Steve walked the group through each of the 10
initiatives in the Implementation Handbook. Each
initiative consisted of sub sections that presented
the NOC Farm Bill request; the outcome success
level (win, lose, or draw); pertinent legislative
language; Conference committee report language;
implementation actions so far and timing parameters
for further implementation action. Steves analysis
also included a section on unresolved questions and
additional action items needed for follow up.
As outlined on the website -- in the win category is
Organic Cost Share; the Conservation Stewardship
Program, the Organic Research and Extension
Initiative and Organic Data Collection and
Analysis. The partial win category includes Organic
Conversion Assistance; Classical Plant and Animal
Breeding (i.e. non-GMOs and cloning) and Organic
Crop Insurance. In the lose (with caveats) category
are GMO Liability and Competitive Markets in
Organics. NOC also worked on numerous other
Farm Bill issues as they came up in conjunction
with other sustainable agriculture groups. The
legislative task is now to ride herd on the rule
making process through conference calls with
pertinent parties to infuence the fnal language and
implementation process.
Further, while some Farm Bill programs are
protected by the security of mandated funding,
others have to go through the Appropriations
process in Congress every year and the allocated
dollars arent necessarily there to support them
when powerful interests step in for a bigger piece
of the pie. Subject to Appropriations for the 2009
fscal year are increased funding for the NOP; the
organic data collection and analysis; the organic
transition program; the SARE and ATTRA programs
and classical plant and animal breeding and these all
require further support to shepherd them through the
process.
Other issues on the NOC legislative priority list
are producing materials for the transitioning
administration in this election year and pushing for a
Pasture rule before years end. NOC is also looking
to impact the congressional Climate Change and
Energy debates and legislation. Meanwhile its not
too soon to start building initiatives to go into the
2012 Farm Bill.
The ongoing NOC agenda also includes riding
herd on the National Organic Program (NOP) and
the NOSB, as well as the current, non-transparent
process by which the NOSB members are appointed
by the Secretary of Agriculture. In particular,
NOC is pushing for a valid complaint and tracking
process at the NOP to make what goes in and out of
USDA completely transparent along with clarifying
their Byzantine accreditation enforcement decisions.
NOC also underscored the recent outcome of the
International Federation of Organic Agricultural
Movements (IFOAM) General Assembly, which
overwhelming voted to keep Grower Group
certifcation solely for organizations of small scale,
third world growers not for Food Store Chains
as industry interests have proposed. And as a new
priority, NOC agreed to begin an initiative to bring
government nutrition programs onto the agenda,
starting with working against the prohibition of
WIC (Women, Infants, Children) program mothers
from using their coupons for organic food.
After a power point presentation of the National
Coop Grocers Associations new Organic
Integrity Project designed to protect consumers via
documenting methods for detecting fraud in the
supply and retail chains, the meeting was evaluated
and adjourned. NOC will host a pre-NOSB organic
community meeting on Sunday, November 16
th.
In
addition to regularly scheduled conference calls,
the next NOC and NOAP meetings will be in
December.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 8
Compost Politics
Vermont Style:
Vermont Compost
Companys Legal
Fight
by Dave Rogers, Policy Advisor
NOFA Vermont
The environmental, agricultural and economic
benefts of compost and composting are well-known
to organic farmers, gardeners and readers of TNF.
High-quality compost is essential to backyard
and commercial organic crop production. And
composting is rapidly emerging as an important
strategy in diverting organic wastes from
commercial and community landflls. To meet
these needs the number and scale of commercial
composting operations have grown in recent years.
In Vermont, over the past year or so, these trends
have collided in a regulatory, legal and political
debate that will set the course for the future of
commercial composting in this state. Should
larger-scale composting operations be regarded as
solid waste processing facilities, or as agricultural
enterprises? Ought they be regulated under the same
land use and development laws that apply to, for
example, industrial manufacturing plants? How
can commercial composting be encouraged while
at the same time protecting environmental quality
and community interests? No one seems to have the
answer.
In May the legislature passed and Governor
Douglas signed into law, an act (H.873) that places
a moratorium on regulatory and enforcement actions
related to commercial composting operations
in Vermont pending the outcome of a two-year
comprehensive review of related issues and the
development of legislative proposals for new
regulations.
This summer Karl Hammer, owner/operator of the
Vermont Compost Company in Montpelier has
found himself in the crosshairs of the debate. His
ongoing legal struggle with the State of Vermont
illustrates the complexity and importance of the
issues involved. It also provides something of a
case study of Vermont politics good and bad.
Vermont Compost Company (VCC) is one of
Vermonts largest and most successful commercial
compost manufacturing companies. On several
acres of his 49 acre farm on Montpeliers northern
border Karl composts sorted food residuals and
natural organic materials brought to the farm from
a number of local schools, colleges, and large and
small businesses. These ingredients are combined
with composted manure Karl produces at another
VCC composting site on a nearby dairy farm.
Karl is a well-known and very experienced
compostologist. Vermont Compost products are
highly-regarded and relied upon by over two
hundred organic commercial greenhouse growers
and vegetable farmers in Vermont and other
states. Thousands of home gardeners buy Vermont
Compost formulations at stores, farm stands, food
coops and other outlets throughout the region.
Karl is also a farmer, the fourth largest egg producer
in the state. His fock of 1200 free-ranging chickens
produces over 1000 dozen eggs per month that are
sold at local stores, coops and directly to customers
at his farm. Karl feeds them no grain; the hens
forage among the compost piles for their food.
Their manure is composted along with everything
else. Many tons of organic waste that would
otherwise end up in central Vermonts landflls
are converted into a valuable agricultural products
eggs and organic compost.
It would be hard to fnd anyone who does a better
job of closing the loops of the local environment,
economy and food system. Over the years his
farming innovations, composting practices
and contributions to the Vermonts agriculture,
communities and environment have been widely
recognized by citizens, businesses, environmental
organizations, legislators and government agencies.
But the growth of Vermont Compost Company in
order to meet the demand for its compost products
has led to controversy and a diffcult legal battle
with the State that threatens its future.
Earlier this year, in response to complaints by
several neighbors (who are politically well-
connected to Vermonts Republican party), the
Vermont Natural Resources Boards District 5
Environmental Commission found that VCC is
operating a compost product manufacturing facility
and requires a permit under Vermonts Land Use
and Development Act, Act 250. In June, Karl
appealed this Jurisdictional Opinion to Vermonts
Environmental Court arguing, in part, that VCCs
status as an operating farm, which has long been
affrmed by the Vermonts Agency of Agriculture,
makes it exempt from Act 250.
(In 1970, when Act 250 was enacted, farms
were specifcally exempted to protect them from
neighbors and others who might, for one reason or
another, seek to prevent farmers from expanding
or conducting farming activities. Environmental
quality standards on Vermont farms are enforced by
the Agencies of Agriculture and Natural Resources.
Contrary to allegations made by his neighbors,
VCC has not been found to be in violation of these
standards.)
On July 7
th
, in an unexpected and outrageous
development, Vermonts Natural Resources Board
ordered Karl to immediately cease and desist all
operations, remove all compost from the farm and
pay an $18,000 fne even though no court hearings
had been held or judgments made pertaining to
VCCs pending appeal! Karl appealed this order as
well to the Environmental Court.
An especially troubling aspect in this matter is that
the moratorium on enforcement actions does not
apply to VCC. Apparently, H.873 was tweaked
by someone in the fnal days of the legislative
session, without the knowledge of many legislators,
such that VCC would be excluded from the
moratorium. This provided the Vermont Natural
Resources Board, whose Chair was appointed by
Republican Governor Douglas, with the opportunity
to immediately pursue its legal actions against
Vermont Compost Company.
Unless the Natural Resources Board is directed
by the Governor to suspend its legal actions
against the Vermont Company Company until new
composting rules and regulations are developed and
implemented, Karl faces a long and expensive legal
fght. His legal expenses have already amounted to
tens of thousands of dollars and continue to climb.
They threaten to reach a point soon where he will
no longer be able to fght the deep pockets of the
State of Vermont. Vermont Compost Company
has created a Legal Defense Fund for those who
would like to help. More information about this
and the entire story may be found on VCCs website
http://www.vermontcompost.com.
At the time this is being written (August 5), NOFA
Vermont is helping to organize a growing group of
certifed organic farmers who use VCC products,
as well as recycling organizations, restaurants,
food coops and others who are directly affected
by this case. The group has retained an attorney
to represent them and fle for party status on their
behalf in the Environmental Court. The group is
organizing under the name Friends of Vermont
Farming and Recycling. It is now actively
fundraising to pay attorney fees and, if funds are
suffcient, assist Vermont Compost Company with
its legal expenses.
Vermonters interest in this issue is high and
growing. Letters to the editor, op-eds, editorials
and news stories appear regularly in the
states newspapers and media outlets. A recent
gubernatorial candidates debate dwelt on the issue.
A petition to Governor Douglas is being circulated
at farmers markets, food coops and other locations.
Media and parties in other states are expressing
interest. This is grassroots Vermont politics!
More information may be found at www.nofavt.
org. Updates on developments will be posted on
NOFA Vermonts webpage regularly. Contact Dave
Rogers, NOFA-VT Policy Advisor, if youd like
more information dave@nofavt.org.
The NOFA Organic Land Care Program is excited
to announce that Page Czepiga (pronounced zeh-
pee-guh) has been hired as Accreditation Manager.
Page, a recent University of Vermont graduate
who majored in Community and International
Development, recently participated in the Living
Routes Ecovillage program in Findhorn Scotland.
She also worked at the Vermont Hispanic Labor
Pilot Project where she designed a survey, polled
workers/producers at fve farms and developed and
published a communication dictionary that is now
available for use by area farmers.
Page will be the central communication person
between the NOFA Organic Land Care Program
and the diverse pool of NOFA Accredited Organic
Land Care Professionals. She will be organizing this
years Update Course and assisting professionals
with their re-accreditation for 2009. Page also will be
sending out monthly Organic Land Care newsletters
and coordinating with the credits sub-committee to
provide continuing education to NOFA professionals.
To contact Page, call the CT NOFA offce at (203)
888-5146 or email pczepiga@ctnofa.org.
Welcome Page Czepiga, Accreditation Manager
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 9
Special Supplement on
Organic Winter Production & Sales
by Jack Kittredge
Because of its small physical size, Rhode Island
is used to playing second fddle to the other New
England states in many regards. But while only
a quarter the size of the next biggest state in the
region (Connecticut) it is the most people-dense
of any. In fact, the Providence metropolitan area
contains more people than any in New England
except Boston. With this many people for
customers, and with an ocean-moderated climate
many of us in colder climes would kill for, winter
production and sales of crops on some of Rhode
Islands 800 remaining farms is a natural.
Farm Fresh Rhode Island is a Providence-based
non-proft advocacy organization that is trying to
make more of this happen. It started as a research
project at Brown University, but grew into an
independent non-proft. It is still headquartered,
however, in Browns Urban Environmental Lab,
home to its Environmental Studies Department.
The building is surrounded by community gardens
actively used by Brown students and faculty, as well
as neighborhood residents. Last fall the gardens
were torn out and the building put at risk because
Brown was going to demolish it. But there was a
push back by students and faculty and ultimately
Brown decided to preserve the building for a
time and allow the gardens to continue. Students
and faculty members quickly rebuilt the gardens
and distributed about 20 plots, plus a couple of
community ones open to anyone.
Farm Fresh Rhode Island has set up farmers markets
in the Providence area to enable city-dwellers to
get access to local food. But those markets tend to
close at the end of October, or by Thanksgiving at
the latest. One of the organizations long term goals
is to build a permanent year-round farmers market
in Providence which would be open 4 or 5 days a
week.
Our market would create a permanent enclosed
space, says Jessica Knapp, development
coordinator for the group, similar to a public
market, where produce, meat, dairy, everything
could be sold. There are a couple of markets like
that in Baltimore, one in Philadelphia.
But for now Farm Fresh Rhode Island just wants
people to get familiar with buying local produce in
the winter. Last November they came up with the
idea of having a one-day a week wintertime market
that would explore whether the community really
wanted a place to buy local food in the winter.
Sheri Griffn, the groups markets coordinator, used
to work at AS 220, a small non-proft art gallery
and performance space in downtown Providence.
AS 220 was not used during the day, so she got
permission to use their display space on Saturdays
from noon to 3 p.m.. Ten to twelve vendors agreed
to sell there, it was advertised, and people came. It
stayed open from the beginning of December until
May 3.
There arent actually any grocery stores in
downtown Providence, explains Jessica. There
A Wintertime Farmers Market
in the Ocean State
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
The entrance to the Wintertime Farmers Market at Providences AS 220 is well marked!
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Karla Simmons, of Simmons Farm, sets up her display of vegetables at the Providence
Wintertime Farmers Market.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 10
arent even many people living here, compared to
downtowns in other cities. But this is a good market
for people who have condos and apartments because
it is handy to people to go shopping on Saturday.
We had about 8 tables going in a circle. The vendors
were on the inside and the customers on the outside.
The Johnson and Wales chef would cook up food
here, as a sort of demo. It was a festive atmosphere,
which was nice in the winter.
The frst two or three months were busy and
successful beyond our imagination, she continues.
It was always packed from 12 to 3. We had at
least 300 customers coming every week. They were
people committed to buying local, people who had
frequented farmers markets during the season. There
is a restaurant next door that uses locally grown
produce. They worked with us and people could
come to the market, bring their family for brunch,
and enjoy the day.
The market was such a success the group is looking
for a larger space this winter. They are also talking
to farmers earlier, so they can prepare to have more
food specifcally for the market. Although AS 220
was accessible by bus, parking was a problem last
winter. So Farm Fresh Rhode Island is trying to
work out arrangements with local merchants who
have lots but dont use them on Saturday.
It is not a requirement of Farm Fresh Rhode Island
that farms selling at their markets be certifed
organic. But some of the participants at the
wintertime market were. Skip Paul, of Wishing
Stone Farm in Little Compton, sold storage crops
and greens there through the end of December, but
treasures his time off in the winter and didnt want
to go into January with the market. Karla Simmons,
of Simmons Farm in Middletown, brought greens as
well as a selection of their organic meats, frozen and
packed in coolers.
We had 4 farms with fruits and vegetables, says
Jessica, including an apple orchard which did
very well, plus we always had a coffee roaster, a
chocolate maker, a woman who made jams and
jellies out of locally grown fruit, an oyster farm
came every week, one farm would bring meat
and eggs, we had a cheese maker and a start-up
farm raising eggs came too. It was a great chance
for them to start up and meet the public. We were
also selling local organic Christmas trees before
Christmas.
Farm Fresh Rhode Island also had a table there to
answer question and occasionally sell some out-
of-state things produced on small farms. Sheri
had a relative with a small citrus farm in Florida
who shipped up some tangerines and grapefruits
that were especially appealing to New England
customers in January. There was also a farmer in
Maine who grew heirloom beans, but had family
in Rhode Island. The organization sold his beans at
their table, too. A local bakery brought bread so that
people could come and buy a lot of their staples.
In our other markets we dont allow non-local
items, or for farmers to come one week and skip
the next, explains Jessica. But because this was
a winter market and we were experimenting, we
wanted to open it up to small farms elsewhere. We
told the farmers that this was just a pilot and we
would re-evaluate at the beginning of March. But
when March came everyone was still aboard. At
the beginning of Spring the supply started to wane
a little bit -- Karla Simmons took a month off, for
one thing. But when we started to get asparagus and
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Sheri Griffn, at the Farm Fresh Rhode Island table, gives information and sells some family
farm citrus.
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Skip Paul, who sold through December, shows his tomatoes, broccoli and fresh greens.
photo courtesy Farm Fresh Rhode Island
Allan Hill of Hill Orchards, with his apples, was one of the markets top sellers.
more greens it picked right up.
We are encouraging people that this market
is worthwhile and they should raise for it, she
continues. But there are plenty of farms that value
their downtime in winter, too, and they dont want
to grow anymore. Were particularly interested in
storage crops like potatoes, squash, and apples.
Another thing that we are trying to put together for
this permanent space in the future is a lot of storage
on-site so people can grow their crops but store
them there.
Skip Pauls Wishing Stone Farm is one of the
Ocean States older and more established certifed
organic farms. Situated in Little Compton, on one
of the long fngers protruding into the Rhode Island
Sound on which so much of the eastern part of the
state sits, Skip suffers from drought every summer.
Winds off the ocean drop what rain they carry to the
west of him, from thunderclouds often tantalizingly
Skip Paul
Grower
Extraordinaire!
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 11
Organic and Natural Beef
Organic Milk (Bottles)
Interested families are welcome and
encouraged to come see our beef in their
natural habitat. We are proud of our cattle
and how they live. They graze at
appropriate times of the year and have
access to outdoor and sunshine all year
round.
Our farm and all cattle have been
inspected and passed by a third party
animal welfare inspector as well as the
normal organic inspector that other farms
do. A specialist, third party inspector, also
inspected the meat handling facility; to be
sure it was being handled humanely.
Would you rather have local, well-finished
beef limited amount of barley and oats
during the finishing of our beef. We dont
use growth hormones or GMO Seeds, feed
maintenance antibiotics or bakery waste,
ever.
If your family wants safe, high quality,
organic meat year round, come or call and
place an order for a side at $4.00 per lb.
or, a whole animal at $3.75 per lb. (plus
cut and wrap).
Some customers split a whole animal with
a friend. Sides will average 400 lbs plus.
Our organic meat and glass-bottled milk
are in approximately 50 health foodstores
as well as restaurants in coastal Maine.
And, thank you for supporting Caldwell
Family Farm and local organic agriculture.
CALDWELL FAMILY FARM
(207) 225-3871
www.caldwellfamsmaine.com
"Hey!
We need a new
pasture"
Wow! Thanks, this
is wonderful."
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 12
within sight of his parched felds. When I stopped
to talk with him in mid-July we was feld-applying
water to his winter squash transplants from a 10,000
tanker-load he had recently purchased.
I can get 10,000 gallons of water for $250, he
says. A truck brings it from a reservoir. Thats
cheap compared to the cost of drilling wells. Ive
had no rain for 60 days -- I know it will eventually
rain in August, but I need the security of the water
now.
The lack of regular rainfall, while making
agriculture more diffcult, does not detract from
Little Comptons value for other purposes.
Right now the highest use seems to be sprouting
photo by Jack Kittredge
Skip Paul stands with some of the tomato plants that will still be producing for this winters
farmers market.
photo by Jack Kittredge
Jessica Knapp stands outside the Farm Fresh Rhode Island offce
on the campus of Brown University.
McMansions. When Skip bought his house twenty
some years ago land was $5000 an acre. Now it is
more like $90,000 an acre.
At such prices, of course, farming is priced out of
the market. Skip had ended up begging use of some
of his felds from wealthy people, and getting the
use of almost 30 acres from the town, which had
implemented a 0.5% tax on property transfers to
fund a town land trust.
Skip markets about a third of his produce through
CSAs, a third through farmers markets, and a third
wholesale primarily to Whole Foods which has
three big markets in the Providence area.
Here at the home farm I have a traditional CSA,
he explains. But Ive established what I call debit
card CSAs in Providence and Barrington. People
pay me in advance and I add 10% to whatever
they give me. The minimum is $350. They come
whenever they want and can get whatever they
want. Its set up like a farmers market but I provide
staff and the public can come -- but they dont get
the 10% extra. With the change in paradigm for
energy I see a problem for the CSAs that are out
of the way and you have to drive to get to them
people are going to stop coming. Were going
to have to deliver to the city. Right now we have
our site in front of a store with an overhang, for
protection from the elements. When farmers realize
they can service thousands of people in the city
rather than a few hundred at the farm, theyll see it
makes sense. Thats the future of CSAs.
One of the farmers markets Skip participated in
last year was the Providence wintertime market.
Although this year he is growing more for next
winter, last fall he found out he had to make some
adjustments for the wintertime customers.
We had a bunch of parsnips and purple top turnips
and I remember that for one of the frst winter
markets I brought them in bushels and baskets.
Nobody bought a thing. My wife said call Pete of
Petes Greens. He told me: Man, bag them up and
call it Skips Soup Mix. It was a great idea. We sold
50 bags the next time. So packaging is big in the
winter markets. We now have three soup mixes.
Having greens is big, he continues. There is
an explosion of interest in greenhouses some
farmers are adding heat, some not. Where we are
we wont have to add any heat were so much
warmer down here. We can grow year round but
we dont want to. We only sold through December.
We work so hard we want a little time off. I start
in the greenhouse February frst anyway, grafting
tomatoes to disease-resistant rootstock. You have to
take time off or you burn out. Were growing almost
of an acre of onions for the Wintertime Farmers
Market, an acre of potatoes, a lot of carrots and
parsnips. Weve increased the size of those storage
crop plantings.
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by Jack Kittredge
The Finger Lakes region of New York is about as
beautiful as you can get for farm country. Gently
rolling land, dotted with family-size farms and
orchards, gradually drops down to the gleaming
lakes. Drawn by their deep, clean water, summer
tourists fock to the region.
The Finger Lakes region was always a big fruit-
growing region peaches and cherries and some
apples. The lakes moderate the climate so you dont
get as bad frosts in the spring, which kill the fowers
before pollination. You also get two or three weeks
longer for ripening in the fall. Also, in some areas
the land is steep and rocky and the soil is terrible for
anything else.
Welchs Grape Juice came in during the sixties
and convinced a lot of tree fruit growers to take
their orchards out and put in juice grapes. So a lot
of growers did that, thinking there would be this
processing plant and great market. But Welchs
never built their plant. By then, however, local
growers had gotten their feet wet in the grape
growing business.
When New York passed a law making it easier for
small grape growers to set up estate vineyards
to bottle and process and sell their own wine,
the idea took off here. The soils, climate and
experience for vineyards all existed already, and
the tourists provided a ready market. As a result,
the Finger Lakes area has experienced a boom in
local vineyards and many lakeside farms have been
converted to small wineries.
Blue Heron Farm, however, located between the two
biggest lakes, Seneca and Cayuga, is still a mixed
vegetable operation the same as it was when
owners Robin Ostfeld and Lou Johns founded it 22
years ago.
We moved here from Western Washington, near
Seattle, says Robin. Lous from there and we
were farming there, but Im an East Coaster and my
family convinced us to move closer. Also the land
prices here were a fraction of the prices out there.
That was a big convincing reason. We really liked
Running a Winter CSA
At Blue Heron Farm
photo by Jack Kittredge
Robin and Lou in the main feld on their 154 acre farm
in the Finger Lakes region of New York.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 24
the Ithaca region and the markets there, only 20
miles away. Land prices are still very reasonable
here compared to the rest of the country. Although
the vineyards have driven up the prices. There must
be forty or ffty wineries within 20 miles of us!
The couple bought 154 acres in Lodi with three
felds and a lot of woods, and proceeded to put in all
the vegetables from A to Z, plus some fowers and
strawberries.
The soils here are not very pretty for vegetable
ground, says Lou. Theyre shallow, clayey, full
of rocks. But theyre getting better. We produce on
10 to 12 acres, plus we keep another 3 to 5 fallow,
out of production in any one year. We can do
tractor planting and tillage all right. But most of the
harvesting is by hand.
They joined the Ithaca Farmers Market and
the Finger Lakes Growers Coop, and their frst
year went all the way to New York City, to the
Greenmarket, to sell their produce.
We stopped that, says Lou. And we left the
Finger Lakes Growers after ten years. We sold to
Wegmans for a while, but didnt like dealing with
conventional grocery stores. Theres a huge turnover
in the staff, theres a huge bureaucracy. Every item
of yours has to be in their system. Recently some
chains are getting the local food idea and managers
are being told to look for local produce and make it
happen. But for us they were impossible to deal with
in the past. We prefer to sell as locally as we can.
Now we do all our own sales, adds Robin. We
have a few local restaurants, about half our crop
we sell at the farmers market in Ithaca, we have a
winter CSA, we sell to the local food coop, and to
select customers in New York City. We tried running
a local CSA out here, but there just wasnt much
interest.
In the winter, she continues, we primarily
market through our winter CSA, but we still supply
the food coops and keep selling to the restaurants
that are open. Our restaurants are medium to high
priced places and they like to work with root crops
during the winter because of the locavore movement
and the benefts of supporting local farms.
Blue Heron Farm is certifed organic and has 5 full
time and about 4 part time employees, besides the
owners. Thats from June through November. In
the winter it is just Robin and Lou. The hired labor
supply is irregular and the farm advertises in a
number of venues. Some of the workers are family,
some friends, some local people.
Lou and Robin have one child -- a daughter who is
23. She wants to be a doctor and is at Bennington
College in Vermont taking a lot of science courses
in a program called post baccalaureate pre med
and seems to be enjoying it.
One of the most interesting aspects of Blue Heron
Farm is their highly successful 110 member
winter CSA. It involves 6 pick-ups from January
through March (the months the Ithaca Farmers
Market is not open) and consists primarily of root
crops and winter squash, but also some stored
greens as well as fresh kale and spinach. Perhaps
the couple describe it best on their website www.
blueheronorganic.com:
The long cold winters in our region make vegetable
farming economically challenging. To address this
problem, we decided many years ago to grow crops
suitable for storage and to develop facilities to keep
them as fresh as possible all winter long. In 2006,
we built a passive solar greenhouse and grew a
successful crop of winter kale. Were confdent that
we can supply each share at least 2 installments of
fresh greens during the winter.
Every 2 weeks in January, February & March you
will pick up a box of mixed vegetables. In the
Ithaca area we will deliver every other Saturday and
Tuesday afternoon to the Greenstar Coop parking
lot. A pickup in Watkins Glen is also available, call
for details. The location and dates will be confrmed
in a December mailing.
We want to make it as easy as possible for you to
get your produce. You can choose to pick up either
on Saturdays or Tuesdays. If, on occasion, you
cant pick up on your regular day, we will hold your
produce until the next delivery. If you dont pick up
the second time, the food will be donated.
Youll always fnd at least 6 different items. Potatoes
and carrots will be included every time. Beets,
Brussels sprouts, cabbage, celeriac, garlic, leeks,
photo by James Cornwell
Lou retroftted this from a horsedrawn to a tractor-mounted potato digger, which works fne.
photo by James Cornwell
The farm crew unloads cabbage from the feld into the storage bin in the cooled room.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 25
onions, parsnips, radishes, rutabagas, winter squash,
shallots, and turnips will make an appearance once
or twice, and maybe more. Kale, spinach, or another
delicious leafy green will be available at least twice,
and possibly more, depending on the weather.
Recipes are included every time.
We have a limited number of shares to sell, so sign
up early to avoid disappointment.
Cost for a full share, a total of 6 boxes, is $150.00
(2008). A full share will contain 15-16 lbs. of
produce (90-96 lbs. total).
Half shares are $80.00 (2008). Half shares will have
7- 8 lbs. each time (42-48 lbs. total).
Since initially getting involved with the Finger
Lakes Marketing Coop, Lou and Robin were
growing winter storage crops. But so was everyone
else, so prices were low and the markets saturated.
They fgured there had to be a better way.
We spend all this time developing markets, sighs
Lou, and then at the end of the year we didnt
want to shut it all down. And we didnt want to
go without winter income. Its a major part of our
planning. In the fall every other grower has produce
and the market is fooded. But come late November
the demand goes up and by January you can sell an
awful lot.
So in 1997 we started a winter CSA, adds Robin.
At that point Id never heard of a winter CSA. But
it was surprising how many people were interested.
Last year the CSA was about two-thirds of our
winter income, and the rest was wholesale sales. We
sell more in January than we do in October.
One of the nice things about winter selling, she
continues, is keeping in touch with our customers.
The whole idea behind it was that one fall the
farmers market was closing and all our customers
were asking us how they could get our produce
during the winter. They really looked forward to
getting our produce and were going to miss it and
their connection to the farm. Winter is such a time
of shutting in and losing your connections. That has
been one of the nice things about a winter CSA. It
is nice to have structure for our days in the winter,
too. We average 2 to 3 days a week of 5 hours each
during the winter. It was stressful to not have any
money coming in all winter, so it helps to have an
income.
The Internet is a really big help for people not
knowing what to do with something. I dont know
how many millions of recipes are up there! You can
search for anything! We dont do a newsletter, but
do enclose a list of what is in the order so people
can check it and know what something is they dont
recognize. Were also going to do a blog on our
website.
Important to the CSAs success is the farms
cooperation with Greenstar in Ithaca.
Theyre pretty cooperative with us, says Lou.
They let us use their entryway for distribution. Of
course it brings customers to the coop and theyll
shop for other stuff once they are there. They also
save half-bushel waxed boxes for us, which we use
for packing peoples shares. The boxes are reusable
many times, but theyre not recyclable so most
of them get thrown out. Think of the millions of
single-use waxed boxes that go into landflls in this
country. Theres no system for them to get back to
California.
Blue Heron has also formed a linkage with Liz
Henderson at Peacework Organic Farm, about
50 miles away. Peacework members make a bulk
purchase of 50 Blue Heron winter shares. They do
the entire breakdown, the bookkeeping, and send a
check for the 50 shares in a lump sum. Robin and
Lou ship the food to them every two weeks through
a distributor 10 miles away who is going to the
Rochester food coop. Peacework and Ithaca get
deliveries on alternate weeks.
Comparing the labor involved in servicing
Peacework and Ithaca members, Robin and Lou are
very conscious of the work involved in breaking
down the produce into individual orders and are
trying to get the Ithaca shareholders to do that.
Weve been boxing things into individual CSA
orders here at the farm and driving them down to
Ithaca, says Robin. But it takes a good bit of time.
There are 30 boxes for the shares, and then 30 bags
for the half shares. Then you have to weigh out
your carrots and potatoes Wed like to start having
shareholders break down their own shares there.
We need to fnd a good place to do it. It would be
too messy and obtrusive at the coop. We need to
fnd a heated garage, or weve thought about doing
photo by James Cornwell
Robin brings in an especially productive Brussels sprouts plant.
photo by James Cornwell
Garlic dries in the peak of the barn attic for several months until it is stored.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 26
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it in the truck, if we could get light and heat and a
way for people to step up into it. Like the Peoples
Grocery!
The key to making the winter CSA work is planting,
harvesting, and storing the right crops at the right
time.
We store everything we can, says Robin, all the
different root vegetables: Brussels sprouts, leeks,
cabbage, onions, garlic, winter squash. Were able
to keep those in pretty good shape usually through
the end of April. Some things we move faster than
others, and some of the hardier root vegetables we
continue to sell at the farmers market in April and
into May. Then we have a passive solar greenhouse
where we have kale that keeps growing through the
winter, and spinach that we plant so we can have
early spinach in March. Kale and spinach are the
only things we actually grow in the winter. And that
is of limited quantity and pretty much just for our
CSA.
The greenhouses are double skinned, she
continues. We start planting kale in August in the
feld, dig it up in November and replant it in the
greenhouses. The plants continue to grow during the
winter, and then make a nice crop of forets out of
the leaf nodes. We call it Kale raab. We give it to the
CSA in March and have it at the farmers market in
April.. We get a lot of pickings.
A winter CSA puts a big demand on your planting
schedules for midsummer and late summer. More
so than if you are just growing for the fresh market.
A lot of ground is tied up in carrots and beets and
turnips that arent going to fresh market sales. And
there is a lot of greenhouse seed starting that you
just wouldnt otherwise be doing.
It starts with the parsnips that you plant in April,
recites Lou. Then there are the onions, celeriac
those are all started early. In July we plant beets
and carrots and rutabagas. After these cucumbers
come out of this house well put kale in there. You
are forever planning your plantings.
Lou and Robin put a lot of energy into proper
storage facilities for the different crops they wanted
to provide during the winter. They had an old 1880s
barn with horse stalls and a loft for hay storage.
They put cement foors in the existing stalls, rodent-
proofed them with wire mesh all along the walls,
sprayed foam on the walls for insulation, and put in
cooling units.
Often in the early to mid fall it is quite warm, says
Robin, and you cant rely on natural cooling. With
these units we can refrigerate everything down to 35
degrees. They are like walk-in coolers but they are
extremely effcient because of the spray foam. In the
winter we dont normally cool, just circulate the air.
But in the fall we can bring the temperature down
quickly. We put water on the cement foors to keep
the humidity up.
Then we have a different room for onions and
garlic, she continues, and a different room for
squash. They have the same insulation, cement
foors and rodent proofng, but are not refrigerated.
Each has a small heater connected to a thermostat
that can maintain the room temperatures at 40 and
50 degrees F respectively. We cure winter squash
frst in the greenhouse. We keep it at about 70
degrees for a couple of weeks and it will continue to
ripen there. We fnd we get better long-term storage
that way. We dont manage the humidity in the
onions and garlic or squash stalls. They just get the
ambient humidity which is fairly low in the fall
and winter.
Brussels sprouts we cut as late as possible, usually
right before Thanksgiving, and line boxes with
garbage bags. Once they are flled we close the bags
and put the boxes in the cooler with the root crops.
Theyll keep at least until January. We used to just
put them in boxes unbagged, but they dried out. The
garbage bags seem to retain moisture.
In the cooler stalls we keep the root crops
rutabagas, parsnips, turnips, celeriac, potatoes,
radishes, beets and carrots -- plus Brussels sprouts,
and leeks. Each of the two cooler rooms is about
12 by 22 feet. Polystyrene lines the ceiling and we
have drains in the foor for water when we wash
the facility down. We keep cabbage loose in a bin
in the cooler stalls. We trim it right before we sell
it. If we didnt have this bin we would have had to
box all our cabbage in the feld. Everything except
the cabbage is in waxed boxes, stacked on pallets,
with the feld dirt right on them. We wash them
photo by Jack Kittredge
Robin shows the empty horse barn she and Lou converted to a walk-in cooler to store root crops and
cabbage for winter markets.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 27
just before we distribute them. We fnd that a fne
coating of our soil keeps them from drying out.
Were doing hundreds of bushels of root crops and
boxes are the easiest way to pack them.
For carrots both because of their soils and the
actual shape of the carrot they grow the Chatennay
variety. Theyre shorter and blockier and dont
lose moisture or dry out, so they tend to be the best
storage carrots. In addition, their favor improves
with age. Lou and Robin break the tops off so no
greens are on them. Beets get trimmed with a knife
but they leave a little of the stem. They prefer beet
varieties that have a high sugar content such as Red
Ace, for which organic seed is widely available.
Garlic is stored upstairs in the hayloft. It is tied in
bundles in the feld and then hung from cables in
the hayloft until the weather gets close to freezing.
Between the end of harvest in August and storing it
in an insulated stall in late December for the CSA, a
lot is sold fresh.
Lou feels that storage conditions are crucial to
maintaining a healthy and attractive product for 3 or
4 months.
We try to hold our coolers at 36 degrees, he says.
If you are at 40 degrees your storage time is really
cut down. You need to work with someone who
fully understands cooling and refrigeration. In high
humidity refrigeration like this the temperature of
the coil is set to be not many degrees colder than
the room so you dont get a lot of condensation
freezing on your coils. That keeps a lot of the
humidity in the room. If you look at the inside of
an air conditioner, that coil is really cold so room
air passing over it drops moisture that freezes on
it. In that case the cooling cycles on and off so the
coil can unfreeze and let the water run off. Here, the
amount of coils in the room are sized with enough
to not require them to run much colder, but to let
them cool the room by being only a little colder than
the air.
Lou and Robin thought about doing a root cellar
instead of coolers, but the cost would have been
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photo by James Cornwell
This is winter squash curing in the greenhouse before storing it for the winter.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 28
much more than retroftting the barn and wouldnt
have enabled them to bring the temperature down
close to freezing in the early fall. As they were able
to afford more improvements in later years, they
went back and sprayed an extra layer of foam on top
of the frst.
When the winter squash storage stall is not in use
they use the room to warm up seed potatoes to
green sprout them. They keep bags in the dark
there for ten days to two weeks at about 75 degrees.
What that does is initiate all the eyes to bud out. If
you dont do that, normally what you will get is a
bull sprout on the one end that will start growing
vigorously. It produces a hormone that suppresses
all the other eyes. After you get them all sprouted,
you cut your potatoes and expose them to light in
shallow trays and the sprouts green up and start
growing. Then you put them out in the feld. What
you get is about two weeks quicker growth. They
emerge much quicker in the feld, get a jump on
diseases and pests and give you an earlier harvest.
Of course storage adds value to the crops, and
Lou and Robin make sure that they recover their
investment by selling the root vegetables at a price
that covers the cost of storage. In January, for
instance, they get $1 a pound wholesale for potatoes
-- whereas in October they usually cant get more
than 70.
But the volume is the real difference, stresses
Robin. I cant sell that many in October because
everyone else has them. But in January Ill sell a ton
of them! Besides the competition being less, people
are eating more potatoes and root vegetables in the
winter.
I asked Robin and Lou what the pluses and minuses
of running a winter CSA are.
Around here in the summer there is a huge amount
of production, sighs Robin. There are a lot of
farmers with the same perishable items. We found
there was a lot of security in having crops that
didnt have to be sold that had a huge window
of freshness. Its a much more relaxed way of
marketing. The root vegetables just keep getting
sweeter and sweeter! Plus it spreads out our labor.
It we were trying to do it all in the fall wed have to
hire more people.
And we cant drop that much stuff on our markets
all at once anyway, says Lou. If we spread it out
they can take it in smaller deliveries all winter.
But on the minus side the infrastructure costs are
signifcant. We did it all piecemeal -- its used,
cobbled together, and in an old barn. But still, even
though it was parsed out over 15 years, our overall
investment is large. We dont like to be using the
energy to run the coolers and heaters, even though
the costs seem pretty minor. When we shut the
system off in March its insignifcant on the electric
bill.
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photo by James Cornwell
The cabbage is loaded into a separate bin in the root crop cooler room.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 29
VEGETABLE GROWERS:
Bejo offers a range of organic or untreat-
ed varieties for your winter and earliest spring sales!
Plan ahead now to include overwintering and cool
weather crops in your 2009 season lineup!
Bejo Seeds, Inc., 1088 Healey Road, Geneva, NY 14456.
315-789-4155 www.bejoseeds.com
Harvesting kale rapini 4/22/08 Kale rapini 4/22/08 Bejo leeks overwintering in feld Harvested leeks 4/22/08
Overwintering can bring early market income, with most of
the labor and maintenance done the previous season. Just
harvest, clean and sell! Try overwintering Bejo Winterbor
kale and Bandit Leek next season. Mulch Nectar carrots in
the feld and continue to harvest into the winter. Call your
local Bejo dealer or 315-789-4155 for more information.
One minus of this system, adds Robin, is you
dont get enough time off each year before you start
up again. And its often not pleasant to harvest all
that stuff in November.
As for the future, the couple plan to increase the
CSA share cost a little in 2009. For the frst time last
winter there was another CSA in the area, but Robin
and Lou feel fne about that because they dont want
to expand to meet demand.
If we opened it up we could more than double
our 110 members, says Robin. But we dont
want to work that hard! We like to not hire help all
winter. Its not a pleasant time of year to be washing
vegetables, hauling stuff through the snow.
Were pretty much maxed out as much as we
want, says Lou. No expansion!
photo by James Cornwell
Washed potatoes spill out onto the sorting
table from the washing machine.
photo by James Cornwell
Early on a Fall morning the van is loaded for market.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 30
by Harvey Ussery
Soil Care
You should be as concerned about improving soil
quality in the greenhouse as in the garden. I grow a
cover crop of cowpeas in the off season to improve
the soil. Another possibility is the growing of forage
cropsgrain grasses, mixed crucifers, peas, etc.
as cut-and-come-again green fodder for poultry or
other livestock in the winter. The biomass of the
root systems of some of these plants, especially
rye, is quite large. If you rotate your forage plots
over the greenhouse beds, their soil will over time
increase in tilth, fertility, and humus as the spent
root systems decompose.
Use of compost is of course always a good idea,
especially for its boost to the microbial populations
in the soil. As in garden growing, mulches help
moderate the temperature in the soil, conserve soil
moisture, and decompose over time, increasing soil
tilth and fertility.
(Do note, though, that use of heavy mulches could
encourage slugs, since there are apt to be inside
the greenhouse fewer natural controls on their
population than in the garden.)
One caution regarding soil care in the greenhouse: It
is important to avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen.
Green leafy crops can sometimes accumulate
unhealthy levels of nitrates, especially in the low
light conditions of the winter greenhouse. I never
add nitrogen fertilizers in the greenhouse. Composts
are a good source of fertility, though it is better to
use plant-based rather than manure-based (higher in
nitrogen) composts. I am even concerned about the
nitrogen fxed by the summer cowpea cover crop,
and plan to follow it with a quick mixed grain cover
to sop up some of the nitrogen before the fall
greenhouse planting season comes in.
The Moderated Winter
A homestead greenhouse can add tremendously to
sustainable food production. However, adding huge
amounts of artifcial heat in order to grow tomatoes
in January or cucumbers in March is anything but
sustainable. Hence, I strongly recommend relying
on the protection from winters extremes provided
by the structure itself, and on naturally cold-hardy
plants, in order to bring in your winter crops. Lets
look at each of those points in turn.
Most new greenhouse owners are surprised to learn
that a plastic-skinned greenhouse gets quite cold at
nightin fact, the air temperature will often be only
a few degrees above ambient temperature outside.
Upon refection, this is not really so surprising: The
translucent skin that acts as a portal for the radiant
heat of the sun during the day is also no barrier
to the radiation of stored heat out of the structure
into the cosmos at night. How is it, then, that the
greenhouse is so effective at keeping plants alive,
even when winter is turning the ground to iron
outside?
You could think of the soil inside the greenhouse
as a rechargeable battery. During the day, it charges
from the heat energy of the incoming sunlight. At
night, it loses that stored energy at a prodigious rate,
true, but it has a huge amount of heat it can lose
before the soil starts to freeze.
The other way in which the structure protects its
sheltered plants is by moderating the extremes
of winter. Plants which are adapted to low
temperatures will still be badly stressed if the
temperature plummets from a high of 40 F in the
late afternoon to 18 by dark; or if sharp winds join
in on the abuse (wind chill isnt just a problem
for us humans); or if they get rained on in low
temperatures. The greenhouse acts to slow the
abrupt temperature changes, and to keep wind and
cold rains at bay.
Remember, however, that the moderating infuence
of the greenhouse is effective only when we
are growing naturally cold hardy plants. I have
harvested lettuces, completely exposed in the
garden, in mid-December in a fairly benign winter.
Spinach will often survive a cold winter in the
garden, and rejuvenate when encouraged by the sun
come spring (here in Zone 6b). You might say that
we are using the greenhouse to imitate for naturally
cold hardy plants like these an unusually mild
winternot to teleport them to somewhere in the
tropics.
Two factors make possible the survival of cold
hardy plants through freezing temperatures. I
referred above to the way the growing beds store
solar heat during the day, and can lose that heat
profigately before the ground starts to freeze. But
by the point that the ground does start to freeze,
its morning, and the cycle begins anew. Ive gone
into my greenhouse many a morning after a 10
night to fnd only a quarter of an inch of frost on the
surface of the growing beds. That quarter inch is no
problemas long as there is no freezing deep into
the root zone, the plants are not unduly stressed.
Growing in the Winter Greenhouse
photo by Harvey Ussery
Harvey grows as many cover crops in his greenhouse as possible, both to improve the
soil and as green fodder for his poultry. Note the uses to which he puts his greenhouse in
addition to growing winter greenery: He keeps a fock of poultry (chickens, ducks, and geese)
in one end of the greenhouse over winter; gets an early start on warm-season crops like
tomatoes; and runs an extensive vermicomposting operation in pits dug into the center of
the greenhouse (under the heavy bin lids you see in the picture). The bins are dug 16 inches
into the earth down the center of the greenhouse. The plywood lids (3/4 inch on 2x4 framing)
cover the bins and provide access down the center. Harveys original idea was that he needed
access down the center anyway, so he wouldnt lose a signifcant amount of growing space if
he dug them into the earth and put down bin lids heavy enough to support any load, e.g. a
loaded wheelbarrow.
photo by Harvey Ussery
Lettuces--in an incredible array of sizes, colors, shapes, and textures--are worth growing
for their beauty alone. They like cool temperatures, rich soil, and a steady supply of soil
moisture to make sweet, tender salads.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 31
The other factor is a neat little trick the plants have
learned, but which is apt to be unsettling the frst
time the gardener sees it. When the air temperature
gets below freezing, certain plants such as lettuce
have learned how to move water out of their cells
into the intercellular spaces, to prevent rupture of
the cell walls when the water crystallizes (freezes).
In this state, the leaves become limp. When the
gardener comes into the greenhouse after a deep-
cold night, the sight of drooping lettuces seems
to indicate a disastrous end of the winter growing
effort. After half an hour of sunlight, however, the
plants cells rehydrate, and they perk up as bright
and pretty as they were before their descent into the
chill.
The Mirror Season
Experienced gardeners may have some diffculty
adjusting to the paradoxes of winter gardening.
Unlike in spring, when the season is gloriously
opening out into greater warmth and longer days,
in the fall it is shutting down into a time of ever-
greater darkness and deeper chill. The implications
for growing are tricky, and take some getting
used to. This reversal in the general trend of the
season is perhaps the biggest adjustment the winter
gardener has to make. We have to re-learn many of
our assumptions, particularly about scheduling our
crops. Do remember that the biggest challenge is
apt to be the reduced photoperiod, rather than the
low temperatures (assuming we make appropriate
choices of cold hardy crops).
The bad news: During the darkest time of winter,
there is insuffcient solar energy to support vigorous
growth. If we have started our plants too late to
make most of their growth before the short days,
they will indeed survive the cold temperatures,
but instead of growing actively will sit and sulk,
awaiting sunnier days.
The good news: On the other hand, if we get the
timing right to produce, say, a mature head of
lettuce by the dark days, the window of opportunity
for harvest expands enormously. That perfect head
of lettuce that would demand use it or lose it
within a matter of days in June, will sit contentedly
in prime condition, awaiting your pleasure, for two
or even three months in the middle of winter.
One implication of the dormancy at the heart of the
winter harvest season: When you start your crops
in the late summer or early fall, start far more than
you think you will need. As you make your earliest
harvests, you will not be able to start new crops, but
if you have plenty in the bank at that point you
can continue making generous harvests until longer
days make possible some late-winter crops.
Watering
It is best to water deeply from time to time (in
lieu of frequent shallow waterings). Water in the
morning, as soon as the frost is off the leaves, to
give the plants time to dry before descending into
nighttime cold again. Avoid over-watering, which
makes plants sappy, less able to stand the cold
and other stresses (and less favorful and nutritious
as well). Test the soil with your fnger: As long as
you feel good moisture half an inch or so deep, it is
better not to water.
Ventilation
It is important to appreciate how hot a closed
greenhouse can get on a sunny day, even if the
temperature outside is quite cold. Do not stress your
plants by leaving the doors to the greenhouse closed
when it is sunny. I typically shut up my two large
doors (one at either end) at night, then open them
wide during the day. If the day is unusually cold,
blustery, and cloudy, I will prop the doors partially
open. However, I always ensure there is some air
movement through the greenhouse during the day.
Incidentally, I found that open doors at either end
of the structure provide suffcient ventilation during
the winterexhaust fans were superfuous. I know
growers with 20 x 96-ft greenhouses who report
that ventilation is adequate using open doors alone.
Remember that as the air in the greenhouse heats in
the sunlight, it will rise and exit the structure, and
more air will be drawn in from outside, providing
constant natural air exchange.
Insects
My approach to leaf-eating insects in the
greenhouse is, as in the gardens and orchard outside,
not so much about control as about balance. Hence
I encourage all the fowering plants I can inside the
greenhouse. I planted yarrow throughout the beds a
couple of years ago, and it blooms late into the fall
and early in the spring. Perhaps it is the fowering
yarrow that encourages the obvious increase in lady
beetle populationin any case, I now have far less
trouble with aphids in the late-winter, early-spring
greenhouse. I also allow unharvested chicories,
crucifers, and onions (grown from bulbs discarded
in the kitchen because of sprouting) to fower and
boost insect populations.
My impression is that the insect season gets an early
start in the warmth of the spring greenhouse, then
the lady beetles and their comrades migrate out into
the garden as it starts to bloom, boosting earlier
insect diversity there.
And speaking of insects: Be aware that a greenhouse
provides good habitat for black widow (and of
course other) spiders. It is important not to leave
stacks of emptied plant pots and cell-packs lying
aboutthe dark space between such cast-offs and
the ground is just where our lady of the shadows
likes to set up, weaving her scraggly web, making
a yellowish cocoon for her eggs, and awaiting
prey. In my greenhouse, the undersides of the
vermicomposting bin lids are also prime real estate.
Though feared for her venomous bite, the black
widow is shy and unaggressive. Just respect her
need for privacy and watch where you put your
fngers. Sooner or later youll likely see her. Tell her
I said hello.
Text and photos copyright 2008 by Harvey Ussery
Harvey Ussery and his wife Ellen live on 2-1/2
acres near the Blue Ridge in northern Virginia,
where they produce much of their own food, and
offer their homestead as model and inspiration to
others aspiring to the homesteading life. Harvey is a
regular contributor to Backyard Poultry and Mother
Earth News. Countryside & Small Stock Journal
is currently publishing in several installments
his The Integrated Homestead, based on his
presentation at the 2007 conference of the Weston
A. Price Foundation. Visit his website at www.
themodernhomestead.us
photo by Harvey Ussery
Chard (or Swiss chard) is botanically simply another beet (Beta vulgaris), but one bred
for its beautiful tops which make a nice mess of greens, instead of a bulbous root. Note
also the lacy foliage of yarrow on the left. Numerous patches of yarrow throughout Harveys
greenhouse seem to have boosted the lady beetle population and greatly reduced aphid
opportunists in the late winter, early spring.
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Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 33
by Paul and Sandy Arnold
Pleasant Valley Farm is located in a valley in a rural
town 25 miles northeast of Saratoga Springs, New
York. We have been operating it as an organic fruit
and vegetable farm since 1988. We have 2 children,
Robert (age 15) and Kimberly (age 12) who are
homeschooled and help on the farm. We own 60
acres and rent our neighbors 120 acre farm, both
of which have somewhat limited tillable soil for
good vegetable production. We use a total of 6
acres for vegetable production, 1/2 acre for large
fruits and acre for small fruits, and keep another 4
acres in cover crops for rotation. We grow a diverse
selection of more than 40 types of vegetables and
fruits with organic methods for retail sales at three
area summer farmers markets and two winter
farmers markets.
We had outgrown our original 17 x 24 hoop-style
greenhouse and started building our new 30 x 48
gutter connect, polycarbonate greenhouse in the
fall of 2002. The greenhouse was manufactured
by Rimol Greenhouse Company to include all the
details we wanted, including an automatic ridge,
automatic roll-up sides, and rolling benches. In
2004, we installed radiant foor heat and grew on
the ground for several years. Then, starting in 2005,
rolling benches were added over a two year period.
The rolling benches were equipped with Radiant
Root heat mats that give uniform heat through a
series of narrow (3/16) tubes spaced apart
that carry the 100 degree water through them. The
mats are made of very sturdy black PVC that we
felt would last our lifetime. Flats and pots are set
directly on the mats and through a series of valves,
we can have a different temperature on each of our
14 benches. The rolling benches allow effcient use
of the greenhouse, by having only one 2 foot aisle
on each side of the greenhouse.
The heater for the greenhouse consists of a Takagi
instant-on variable fame propane-fred unit with a
range of 30,000 to 175,000 BTUs. The boiler is
set up with 5 heating zones, two for the greenhouse
foor, 2 for the benches (one on each side) and
one for the small barn attached to the greenhouse,
which is used as a potting shed and a winter
washing station. Each zone has its own high-volume
circulator. The system also has a heat-exchanger
which produces warm water. The warm water,
which is used to water the seedlings, is benefcial
for enhanced growth and for saving energy.
Before late fall production of greens tapers off, we
begin preparation for production of greens in the
greenhouse on the heated benches. Our frst winter
production was trialed with seedings in February
2006. 1020 plastic trays were flled with Vermont
compost potting mix (regular mix) and we seeded
5 varieties of lettuce and 3 Asian greens (tatsoi,
mizuna, and mustard), which were used for mesclun
production. The trays were seeded weekly and the
mesclun was sold for $10 per pound in March and
April. By May 1
st
, our tunnel greens are ready, and
the greenhouse production ceases to allow us to
raise all our transplants for the farm.
In January 2007, we started production of the
mesclun in trays and added arugula as another
product to add diversity to our table at the markets.
We switched to using 13x17 trays that are 3 high,
which ft perfectly on the 6 foot by 13 foot benches,
and we also started mixing our own soil, giving us
very uniform, healthy growth and saved us money.
In 2007, the arugula was continued weekly for the
entire year and the production was a great success.
On November 1
st
of 2007, we started seeding
mesclun in hopes of having greens for the markets
when the outside fall production waned.
Early winter production seedings (greens for
December & January) consist of 4 lettuces: black-
seeded simpson, red sails, red salad bowl, and
plato II Romaine and 4 Asian Greens: red mustard,
ruby-streaks mustard, kyona mizuna, and tatsoi.
Seven shallow rows are indented per each tray and
we shoot to have 25 seeds per each row, utilizing
a Gro-More vibrating hand-seeder (about tsp of
seed per tray). We plant 6 trays of each variety for
a total of 48 trays per week for mesclun, and also
plant 12 trays of arugula each week. The air bench
thermostats are kept at 40 degrees, which gives the
soil a temperature of between 50-60 degrees. Single
or double P-19 rowcovers are kept over the benches
on cold nights and on cold, cloudy days. They
are removed during warm temperatures and sunny
days. The HAF fans are run almost continually to
control dampness, keep rowcovers dry, and prevent
diseases.
The greens are harvested with a Johnnys produce
knife into 5 gallon buckets, spread across our
washing table bench, misted, tossed, and bagged
into vented clear plastic bags with pound per bag.
These are sold for $4 per bag ($16 per pound) at
our 2 weekly farmers markets. We can get 2 or 3
cuttings off each tray, then the soil is recycled and
amended to utilize for potting up large perennials.
Arugula is harvested similarly, however we put only
1/8 pound per bag and sell it for $2.50.
We are trialing many new greens and are continually
learning more each year since our growing system is
unique. Some of the new seedings consist of yukina
savoy, green wave mustard, black summer pac choi,
mei qing choi, fuyu shomi pac choi, bulls blood
beets, yellow swiss chard, and also a new lettuce
mix from Johnnys seeds that has varieties specifc
for winter growing, giving more color and cold-
weather vigor. In summary, after our limited years
of trialing this system, we have had our ups and
downs of success, but look to perfect it since we feel
it can be a lucrative venture. The radiant heat gives
us the advantage of reduced fuel usage. The demand
for greens is very high and increasing all the
time, especially in the winter months. As we gain
knowledge on winter growing, we will continue to
strive to meet this demand.
Cold Weather Greens Production
on Radiant-Heated Benches
photo courtesy Pleasant Valley Farm
Winter mesclun grows on radiantly heated benches.
photo courtesy Pleasant Valley Farm
Mesclun on the heated benches and under row cover stays at 65 degrees even though the air
in the greenhouse is below freezing.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 34
by Seth Jacobs
We have been farming in Washington County New
York since 1983. The most recent turn our business
has taken is towards growing greens in the winter.
This winter we will have just over 10,000 sq feet of
growing area under cover, in three high tunnels. .
Two of those tunnels have a ground heating system.
We will grow baby spinach, a mild and spicy
mesclun, baby bok choi, and arugula. Our goal is
to generate nearly half our income from November
to May. The story of how we got to this point on
our farm is about markets primarily, and about our
preferences and skills as growers.
For years we farmed as many market growers in
New England have done- growing and selling
enough on 10-15 acres in the 5 months from June
through October to generate an income to cover
the entire year. We have marketed in several ways,
including CSA, bulk storage vegetable sales in the
fall, retail at markets, and wholesale. For the last
10 years we have settled on a mix direct retail at
farmers markets and wholesale to a medium sized
natural food store in Albany, NY. To stay proftable
at our scale of production we have found we need to
keep wholesale marketing down to about 1/3 of total
sales.
While our climate and soils certainly allow for the
creation of enough value in the fve month growing
Farming
Winter
Greens
season, this style of growing makes for a very
busy growing season, with a labor force that must
fuctuate a lot over the year, and income that when
plotted over the year looks like a classic extreme
bell curve. It also creates a basic disharmony in our
lives at this point. We are now raising two young
children, and during their summer break we are too
busy to spend much time with them.
About fve or six years ago our Farmers Market
in Troy, NY, decided to try a year round market.
An urban renewal project from the early 1970s
provided us with an excellent venue- the Atrium in
downtown Troy is a large, naturally lit indoor space
with covered parking, lots of space, surrounded by
other retail stores, coffee shops, and a post offce.
Our strategy for this frst winter market went
something like this: We had some experience with
season extension under row covers, and we had
built our frst high tunnel which was a Ledgewood
model, 21 X120. This was a simple structure, no
heat, single layer poly, and manual roll up sides.
We built this tunnel for tomato production, and had
had success with that crop because it gave us a one
month jump on the season, and eliminated the blight
problem. We also much preferred the permanent
overhead support provided by the structure of the
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photo by Seth Jacobs
This is some of the more than 10,000 square feet of high tunnel space Seth has
under cover to grow greens for winter sales.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 35
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Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 36
house- we fnd it makes supporting the tomato
plants much simpler. We also used this house for
early greens production in the spring, and squeezed
in some crops, basil and greens, in between the
tomatoes before they grew too large. For this frst
winter market we planted this house to spinach. We
also planned to bring storage crops such as carrots,
beets, onions, potatoes, butternut squash, and
shallots.
The spinach production has gone something
like this: We fertilize with heavy applications of
compost. We fll the house in two plantings, the
dates we use at our latitude are just before and just
after the 1
st
of October- say Sept 25
th
and October
5
th
. We plant close and densely, using resistant
varieties is important. The frst planting is ready by
the middle of November, and the spinach continues
to grow until late December. The second planting
is ready by mid December, and is stockpiled fully
grown for harvesting during the part of winter when
there is no growth in this unheated house. Growth
restarts in February- early or late depending on the
severity of the winter. The amazing thing about
spinach is that it seems able withstand any low
temperature. This unheated house obviously gets
quite cold at night, thought the ground never freezes
more than and inch or two down. When frozen
the spinach cannot be harvested, but once it thaws
is looks great. During a cold (or cloudy and cold)
spell we will use row covers to keep it from freezing
ahead of that weeks harvest. We have been able
to cut this spinach once or twice again in February
and March. Often some of this spring crop is
wholesaled, as growth rates at that time exceed the
capacity of our retail markets. The total yields have
been very impressive from this low input, unheated
house.
The availability of fresh spinach at our frst winter
market was very well received by our customers,
That frst year the market quickly grew to the point
where we could sell more spinach than at a busy
summer market, which makes sense given that we
were the only game in town in the fresh local greens
department. For the next few years we perfected
this spinach production method, and grew and
stored enough root crops and squash to supply this
ever-growing market. We saw that the economics
of the spinach in this low input system were quite
good.
The Next Step
As the Market grew demand exceeded supply, so
we built another high tunnel, this one a larger Rimol
brand, 30 X 120, with automatic roll up sides,
also unheated. That frst year in this house we also
planted some of our mesclun and arugula in the fall,
and with the use of row covers kept production up
until mid December. What happened next is when
things really got interesting for us. Some of the
row cover was left on the ground where it had last
been put when the arugula was uncovered the last
time in the fall. When we lifted this in the spring,
there was a long row of Arugula that had survived
the winter under multiple layers of row cover. It
was at this point that we realized that perhaps with
a small amount of additional heat, just enough to
keep the ground from freezing, we might expand
our production of winter greens. There is not much
new under the sun in agriculture, its all been done
before, but this is when it occurred to us that a
small amount of additional heat might work for our
situation.
That spring we dug up the ground in the new house,
and installed a ground heating system using basic
radiant foor materials, and oil-fred hot water. We
buried the pex tubing underground at 1 intervals
16-18 inches under, deep enough so that tractor
tillage was still an option. The next winter we
planted a variety of winter greens- but not lettuce.
We used wire hoops and 3 layers of row covers to
cover the whole house at night. We maintained a
soil temperature of 47 degrees 6 inches under the
surface, and found that under the row covers at night
the temperature never dropped below 27 degrees.
We burned 400 gallons of oil, 90% of it between
November 15
th
and February 1
st
. We have found
that by February, no matter how cold the nighttime
temperatures, if the weather is sunny there is enough
solar gain during the day (5 degrees of soil temp
rise) that no additional heat is necessary.
The next two years we worked on our growing
techniques for all these new (to us) winter crops.
Many of the mix ingredients are the same as
in the warm season, with a few changes made
to accommodate the different light levels and
temperatures. The planting schedule is critical for
continuous production. Succession planting begins
the frst of October, and proceeds weekly, as we
work our way into November, seedings become
more frequent, and by mid-November plantings
are every three days. Unlike in the spring, when
plantings need to be stretched out for continuous
harvest, at this time of year 3 days apart in the
seeding schedule can translate into 3 week intervals
in the harvest. Most crops are harvested 2-3 times
before renewing the beds with new seedings later
in the winter. Productivity really jumps in the
late winter and early spring, when light levels,
temperature, and day length are up. In February
and March, production is way up, and in late
March, April, and early May, which are usually
considered the lean times for local food around here,
the production from these established, well rooted
crops, many of which were planted in January and
February, is off the charts, and in addition to all the
mixes our market table is full of lots of large greens,
which have grown too large for mixes, and are sold
on their own- things like chard and kale.
Regarding spinach: As mentioned, spinach
production from the unheated house was very good,
but when we planted spinach in the heated house the
results were even more impressive. In March and
April spinach planted in January can be cut every
other week, with high very quality and quantity.
Final Notes
Needless to say, the addition of a wider variety
of fresh greens in midwinter was met with great
enthusiasm by our customers at market. We can sell
2-3 times as many greens at a winter market vs. a
summer market. Prices are slightly higher then as
well. Demand has again exceeded our supply, so
we just completed our third and largest tunnel, a
Rimol 34X 120, also heated. We enjoy gardening
in the winter, the greenhouses are a cheerful place to
be. The type of work now being done in the winter
is all for the highest value crops- greens! We have
cut back on out fall root crops- no storage carrots or
potatoes- eliminating these large crops during the
growing season means we need less labor then. Our
winter labor now will be less washing of roots and
more work in the greenhouses. Our labor force is
more oriented towards year round part time workers.
By offering year round work we can keep more
experienced and committed people.
As oil prices rise by large percentages, we will have
to keep an eye on costs. Our two heated houses,
which last year would have cost $2,000 to heat, will
now cost $4,000. We could add supplemental wood
heat, or increase nighttime insulation. Covering the
earth inside these houses at night is critical. Oil use
would be 3 or 4 times as much without a covering
system. As soon as solar gain stops as the sun goes
down, which around the solstice can be as early as
3:30 pm, the covers need to be in place. Currently
we use 3-4 layers of row cover, and are working on
a system to roll the covers on and off; as we expand,
covering and uncovering becomes a bigger chore.
No doubt our farm will continue to change, well
see how all this plays out this year. We defnitely
feel less pressure to produce this summer, and are
glad to concentrate on the crops we grow best, and
have more time for family activities. Our hope is
that even during the winter we can earn enough to
pay off debt incurred building these rather expensive
high tunnels and heating systems.
photo by Seth Jacobs
Greens cannot be picked until they are thawed, but then they look great!
photo by Seth Jacobs
Greens are well received by winter customers, and command a good price.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 37
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 38
Service. A high point this year was the sold out
local dinner on Saturday night. All the food for this
delicious meal was local and organic: produced on
a certifed organic farm in one of the seven NOFA
chapter states.
Kirsten Bower of NOFA/Vermont was honored
as the NOFA Person of the Year for over eighteen
years of work for the organization. Unfortunately,
due to an injury, she was unable to be present and
the ceremonial award shovel was presented to her
likeness in the form of a smiling, waving, cardboard
effgy! Also honored was Juanita Nelson, a long
time supporter of the civil rights and local food
movement. Juanita briefy addressed the audience
at the Annual Meeting on Friday night.
When the hundreds of people who attended the
conference headed home, there was no doubt they
took with them new knowledge and insight to farm
and garden organically. There is no doubt that they
will help to bring about the important changes in
food production of which Arden Andersen and Mark
McAffee spoke and to help spread NOFAs message
well beyond the three day conference.
photo by Jonathan von Ranson
Potter takes a moment away from her display to tend her baby.
photo by Jonathan von Ranson
Those three careful listeners were at the Farming without Fossil Fuels workshop led by
Molly Merrett and Lisa DePiano.
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Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 39
Solar Gardening: Growing Vegetables Year-
Round the American Intensive Way
by Leandre Poisson and Gretchen Vogel Poisson
published by Chelsea Green, 1994
www.chelseagreen.com
paperback, 288 pages
$31.96 sale price
review by Jack Kittredge
This is a classic (in the sense that Eliot Colemans
book the Four-Season Harvest is a classic) by
a couple that went back to the land in New
Hampshire at the end of the 1960s. They spent
decades raising their own food and experimenting
with ways to use solar energy not only for growing
but also for house heat, cooking, hot water, and
more. They drew inspiration from the Nearings,
attended early NOFA gatherings, and by the time
this book was written in 1994 had students focking
to learn from them.
Leandre taught at the University of New Hampshire
before becoming a fulltime homesteader and had
familiarized himself with a number of different
growing systems developed by indigenous and
European cultures. He was fascinated by the
marais market gardeners who thrived on the
outskirts of Paris as it grew to a population of over 2
million during the nineteenth century. Their system
(also called the French Intensive system) extended
the season by growing plants in solar microclimates
created by bell-shaped glass enclosures called
cloches. Extra heat was added to the mix with
scoops of rotting horse manure collected from
the well-littered streets of Paris. According to one
scholar, at the height of the marais system (about
1880) one-sixteenth of the land area of Paris was
under cultivation by some 1800 marais farmers
averaging just under 2 acres each and using over
6,000,000 cloches to produce more than 100,000
tons of extended season vegetables and fruits. That
is some 55.5 tons (111,000 pounds) of food per
solarize their immediate environment. Pods go over
a bed for the same purpose. Pods atop pod extenders
create a tiny greenhouse in which you can grow and
work.
The Poissons divide crops into heat-loving, cool-
hardy, and cold-tolerant crops. Each of those groups
is further subdivided into short-season, mid-season,
long-season, and perennial crops. This organization
is important for following their rotations later, as
they step you through each month in continuous
gardens in the northern, moderate, and southern
belts of North America.
In the northern zone, for instance, where most of
New England lies, in January one harvests kale,
collards, mustard greens and leeks for fresh crops
from an insulated pod/extender bed, and digs up
carrots, parsnips and salsify from another pod
marking the root crops and keeping the soil from
freezing. One also keeps the snow off the outdoor
appliances and starts lettuce and spinach inside the
house. In February, as soon as weeds appear in the
insulated bed, the soil is warm enough to germinate
short season cold greens such as corn salad or
mustard greens. Keep harvesting your fresh greens
and root crops to make room for the new plantings,
and gradually remove any mulch to let the sun
warm the soil. In March you empty the insulated
beds and direct-seed short and mid-season cool-
hardy and cold-tolerant vegetables. By the end of
March you can start seed for celery or members of
the cabbage and onion families. This is also a good
time to clear some snow off your beds and set out
the cones, mulching around the edges, to preheat
the soil. You can also use the cones to force greens
from over-wintered vegetables like Swiss chard or
endive roots, or force perennials such as asparagus,
rhubarb, or sea kale.
Skipping the warmer months of April through
October, we pick up again with the Poissons garden
after Halloween. In November you harvest Brussels
sprouts, winter cabbage and root crops, and either
dig up and store or mulch and mark with a stick any
root crops you have selected for spring forcing. In
Book
Reviews
farmer, or close to 60,000 pounds per acre.
Poisson has designed a number of modern devices
to duplicate marais productivity in the northern belt
of the U.S. Where the French used glass, he prefers
the lighter (and easier to work with) fberglass. The
three growing aids he uses are cones (analogous to
cloches with a 36 inch diameter at the base), pods
(similar to modern cold frames and 4 x 8 feet at the
base), and pod extenders (structures to raise and
widen the effect of a pod to 8 x 8 feet at the base).
Cones go over one or a small number of plants to
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 40
December you neither plant nor transplant anything.
You still harvest fresh vegetables from the insulated
pod/extender beds, and from under mulch in the
open garden. Mostly, however, you eat storage crops
from the root cellar, and squash, onions, garlic and
shallots.
Leandre is the kind of guy who gets things free
and fgures out how to use them creatively. He
constructs energy budgets for materials and works
out whether more effort went into creating the
material than its use will save. He loves recycling
things and Im sure would be a frst-class dump
picker (if they still allowed that noble but vanishing
profession). He has put together the price of making
his appliances from new material though he points
out that should not be necessary in many cases. The
4 x 8 pod should run you $240, he fgures. A Solar
Cone would be about $25. A full 8 x 8 pod extender
would be as much as $300. Remember, these are
1994 prices.
The current equivalent of these prices may seem
hefty when you multiply them by the number
of cones and pods you would like to work with.
Certainly in the last 14 years hoop house and row
cover makers have shown what inexpensive poly
flms and spun-bonded fbers can do for growers to
extend the season. On a one year, square foot basis
it may be hard to justify the Poisson appliances.
But their mobility, durability, and fexibility lend
them to a second look. This is a fascinating book
and holds many secrets and tips from 2 lifetimes of
northeastern growing.
Sacred Stewardship: Regaining Our
Spiritual Partnership With The Food We Eat
by Charles Hubbard and Maggie Carruthers, 2007
Published by Maggie Carruthers
www.sacredstewardship.net
paperback, 155 pages
$27.50 CDN
review by Maria Erb
Sacred Stewardship: Regaining our Spiritual
Partnership with the Food we Eat by Charles
Hubbard and Maggie Carruthers is a very personal
look at what it means to farm biodynamically with
an extra emphasis on the more mystical elements
of biodynamic agriculture. For anyone trying to
fnd out more about this involved subject, it can
be a mighty task to learn about the biodynamic
sprays and preps, when to use them, and what their
function is without even opening the astral drawer
of cosmic pipes, spirit guides, elemental beings, and
radionics -- but that is the focus of this book. And it
makes for a very interesting offering from the shelf
of often hard to fnd publications on biodynamics.
The book is a self-published effort, spiral
bound, with a workbook feel to it. Many of the
chapters include space for notes and exercises to
do to increase your ability to be more aware of
different types of energies -- around plants, in the
atmosphere, in your body etc. Sort of what you
might fnd in a beginning Qigong class when they
tell you to stand with your palms a few inches apart
and feel the energy between your hands. The book
does briefy describe a bit about Hubbards journey
from farming conventionally in England to farming
biodynamically in Nova Scotia but doesnt offer
anything detailed enough for anyone who actually
wants to know how to migrate from organic to
biodynamic. The authors are part of an intentional
community in Canada which is centered on the
teachings of Saint Francis of Assisi and they spend
most of the book talking about the importance of
pyramid shaped structures (greenhouses), the golden
mean, earth circles, labyrinths, cosmic pipes and
other metaphysical subjects. So be prepared to go a
little X-Files for most of the books 155 pages.
The Sacred Stewardship book also comes with an
audio CD that contains some text and audio fles
with supplemental resources. The frst fle is a PDF
with instructions on how to create a biodynamic
compost pile using the preps obtained from
the Josephine Porter Institute and the second text
fle is a PDF with links to various websites on
food vitality, earth circles, where to obtain metal
corners for pyramids, how to build a labyrinth and
other topics touched on in the book. The CD also
contains two guided meditations Meditation with
Cosmos and Meditation with Mother Earth.
The book includes some photos of the earth circle,
garden wheel, pyramid greenhouse, Fibonacci cross,
and other structures described in the book and also
includes pictures of life on the farm lush foliage,
vibrant veggies, and peaceful animals with shiny
coats.
If youre not fortunate enough to have a lightworker
and animal communicator like Maggie Carruthers
in your household, then perhaps reading about what
its like to have one nearby will at least make you
think you should learn a little bit more about feng
shui. As hard to put into practice as this stuff is, its
still fascinating. And the fact that someone actually
has created such a sacred space is sublime. I give
them a lot of credit and I do hope theyll share a bit
more with us in the future, perhaps picking out one
of the many topics covered in the book and going
into greater detail with more photos. Personally,
I feel the type of material presented in this book
would beneft from a massive multimedia overhaul.
The book is text heavy and since much of the
information will be new and somewhat puzzling to
most readers, a lot of it could be better delivered
using short videos (which could be included on a
companion DVD or made available on the Sacred
Stewardship website http://sacredstewardship.
net). Walking the labyrinth visually or watching
some of the ceremonies described in the book would
make this material spring to life and have an impact
that just doesnt come across easily in the current
format. But for anyone who wants to work at it,
digging through Sacred Stewardship will root out
some worthwhile fare.
Managing Water: Avoiding Crisis in
California
by Dorothy Green
University of California Press, 2007
review by Larry Siegel
Not quite academic (footnote-free and generally
lacking documentation), Managing Water is
nonetheless a dry read. (One would hope a book
about water would not be dry.) Focusing on the
greater Los Angeles area, the author at the outset
summarizes the sources of water supplies. This is
followed by interminable descriptions of many of
the hundreds of water agencies operating in the area.
Sections on water use effciency and water quality
were a bit more interesting. All of three pages are
devoted to providing the elements of a sustainable
statewide water policy. Maps, charts, and
photographs abound but they are poorly reproduced
and too busy with detail to be useful to the casual
reader. It is bewildering why the author did not
pursue matters of agriculture more extensively, since
it consumes the lions share of the states waters.
I am bemused by the fact that the book reached
the hallowed halls of The Natural Farmers
headquarters. Managing Water will be of interest
to but a small number of readers and I do not
imagine any of them residing anywhere but southern
California. For an alternative look at water, I would
recommend Mayordomo: Chronicles of an Acequia
in Northern New Mexico by Stanley Crawford.
Crawford was, may still be, a writer and truck
farmer who established roots in rural, Hispanic
New Mexico. (His Garlic Testament is also
highly recommended.) An acequia is a community
irrigation ditch. Crawford spent several years as the
mayordomo, the ditch manager, and recounts issues
of water while wallowing in it. Dry it is not.
Kitchen Literacy: How We Lost Knowledge of
Where Food Comes from and Why We Need to
Get it Back
by Ann Vileisis
Island Press, 2008
331 pages
review by Winton Pitcoff
An advertisement in a popular womens
magazine advocated for buying foods as near the
unmanufactured state as possible pepper in the
berry, coffee unground, honey in the comb, fruits
for jellies. Nothing revolutionary there, really its
what those of us who try to keep aware of our food
consumption already do as a way of pushing back
against over-processed foods. But that text, from
a column in Good Housekeeping magazine, was
printed in 1886.
Its evidence that the struggle between consumers
maintaining control over or even awareness of
what they eat and food corporations endeavoring to
produce food more cheaply while concealing their
processing techniques is hardly new. That we have
lost touch with how our food is grown, processed,
packaged, shipped and sold is no accident, says
Ann Vileisis in Kitchen Literacy. Rather, it
is the result of a covenant of ignorance forged
between consumers who prioritize convenience, and
manufacturers constantly seeking less expensive
ways of producing the food we need.
The book begins with details of the food preparation
habits of a homemaker in 1790, with evidence
culled from the diaries of Martha Ballard of Maine.
Vileisis paints a picture of a table laden with
foods of which Ballard had intimate knowledge of
their provenance her own garden, a neighbors
pasture, a local millers stones. Her cooking process
involved simple and effcient methods and were far
more than a chore they were a key part of daily
life.
The growth of the urban middle class in the mid
1800s prompted a profound shift from such
awareness, says Vileisis, with shopping markets
replacing local farms and domestic help stepping in
frequently to provide labor. When industrialization
happened toward the end of the century, offering
domestic workers far more appealing opportunities
for employment, homemakers were faced with
having to re-learn how to shop and cook.
Publications aimed at homemakers stepped in, and
many of the articles from this time seem familiar
they encouraged knowledge of where food came
from and eating only what was fresh and ripe
at the time, for instance but as transportation,
refrigeration and sterile packaging became more
commonplace, the national food system took hold
and quickly began to cancel out such lessons. Labels
bearing pictures of bucolic pastures full of plants
and animals began to adorn cans of processed meat
and vegetables, and succeeded in making shoppers
feel re-connected to the agrarian life, even if those
images belied the actual feedlots or factory vats that
the food inside the cans came from.
The book details the rise of preservatives,
pesticides, health regulations and advertising, all as
part of an analysis of consumers seemingly constant
interest in keeping aware of what they eat, coupled
with their growing unwillingness to challenge
the systems that feed them. This is where Vileisis
refers to the covenant of ignorance that shielded
shoppers from knowing unsavory details about their
foods; [and] also shielded food producers from
public scrutiny.
The 1960s saw the rise of kitchen countertrends,
with a gourmet food movement, heightened
ecological awareness, and an increase in sentiment
that foods were being tampered with at the
expense of taste, with large corporations benefting
fnancially from that loss. The rise of natural and
organic foods are chronicled in the book, and
cursory attention is paid to the re-emergence of
small farms, CSAs and the local food movement.
Vileisis is a historian, and her deconstruction of
the time period between 1790 and 1950 is the
best part of this book. Her coverage of the current
state of the food culture is brief, however, and she
offers little in the way of optimism for any large
scale transformation of the ignorance she says
plagues the food chain. The ending feels rushed,
with a few snippets about organizations doing good
work and an admonition to consumers to be more
engaged in the public policy process that regulates
the food industry, but little else. Still, the history
that precedes this fnal chapter is thorough and
fascinating, and well worth reading for anyone
seeking to understand just how weve gotten so far
removed from our agrarian roots.
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 41
by Jack Kittredge
Earlier this summer I was invited to attend the
Organic Summit. This is a three-day event in
June at which organic farmers, certifers, and
representatives of organic groups such as OMRI
(the Organic Materials Research Institute), OFRF
(the Organic Farming Research Foundation), The
Organic Center, the Community Food Security
Coalition, the Center for Food Safety and the
Rodale Institute get to mix and mingle with middle
managers (and sometimes founders) of such Organic
Industry companies as Whitewave Foods, Horizon
Organic, the Organic Trade Association, Honest T,
Organic Valley, Target (Target? Yes, Target!), Small
Planet Foods, Alberts Organics, Kroger, Smucker,
Dagoba Organic Chocolate, Safeway, and Coca-
Cola (Coca-Cola? Yes, Coca-Cola!)
There were about 160 of us there, fairly evenly
mixed between players from the Industry and the
broad set of farmers, researchers and policy people
representing the Movement, if you will. The primary
purpose of the event, besides being educated by
the plenaries, panels, and break-out presentations,
seemed to be to mix these diverse folks together
so they arent quite strangers to each other, and
avoid another disastrous split in the organic world
such as happened a couple of years ago around the
controversial Congressional amendments sponsored
by OTA to the Organic Foods Production Act.
The Organic Summit is put on by New Hope
Natural Media, publishers of such Industry
journals as Delicious Living Magazine, Functional
Ingredients Magazine, The Natural Foods
Merchandiser, and Nutrition Business Journal, in
partnership with the Organic Farming Research
Foundation created by the California Certifed
Organic Farmers and dedicated to funding research
that furthers organic farming.
Together they have raised serious funding from
sponsors like Horizon Organic (Dean Foods), Silk
(Whitewave Foods), Origins Organics (an Este
Lauder personal care company), Cascadian Farm
(General Mills), and Muir Glen (General Mills) to
put on this event at an upscale hotel and conference
center in the trendy heart of the organic food
industry Boulder, Colorado. Most of the industry
people paid hefty fees to register, eat and sleep at
the event. Many of the farming contingent were
invited guests or speakers who were subsidized by
the organizers (including our own Steve Gilman,
speaking on the Domestic Fair Trade Movement).
The opening keynote featured the global president
of Origins Organics talking about the growth of the
natural organic personal care industry in the last
couple of years (growing faster than organic foods).
A key to her companys success was fnding an Iowa
farmer who could help them develop an organic
emulsifying agent from soy lecithin that got rid of
the oily feel of their products on human skin.
I could relate to the next presentation a little better.
John Ikerd, professor emeritus of agricultural
economics at the University of Missouri, delivered
a passionate sermon about the importance of local
food and the refreshing values that it represents:
Honesty, Responsibility, Compassion and Respect.
Tom Philpott, Grist blogger and part-time farmer,
backed him up with personal recollections of the
power of the locavore movement. This was soon
further emphasized by a tour of the thriving Boulder
Farmers Market, conducted by member Steve Ela,
Attending
The
Organic
Summit
raiser of peaches, cherries, apples and pears on the
Western Slope of the Rockies, about 6 hours further
west.
The Boulder Farmers Market is one of the more
impressive ones Ive seen around the country
comparable to Ithacas or that in Washington
DCs Dupont Circle. All sorts of stunning produce
was heaped high on tables, as well as amazing sweet
cherries, colorful fowers, wines, pastries, bottled
and packaged value-added products along with
ready-to-eat granolas, cookies, confections, and
drinks. A constant crowd of young families, students
and older couples strolled past in a festive mood,
stopping often to shop. And this was just Wednesday
evening -- Im told its twice as big on Saturdays!
Two more days followed of presentations and
discussions. Among my favorite were Fred
Kirschenmann, North Dakota grain farmer talking
about the importance of not squeezing out mid-
sized farms in the fght over small local versus
industrial operations, and Jim Thomas from ETC
Group warning about the rapid development of
nanotechnology including in organic food and its
packaging and the need for caution in proceeding
with this untested new technology.
I was also interested to see just how rapidly this
market is growing. There were presentations
on a retirement community designed around
permaculture and organic gardens in Costa Rica
with units for $300,000 and up, a traditional French
organic wine company now, for environmental
reasons, packaging their product in aluminum
tetra-paks which are more recyclable than glass
and a ffth of the weight, and stories by the founders
about selling a start-up organic chocolate business
to Hersheys and a bottled organic tea company to
Coca-Cola.
Was the Organic Summit a success? I came away
realizing that the Industry players are often
individuals with passion and commitment to a better
earth. I also realized that the corporations that are
rapidly moving into this marketplace are learning
how to culture it and grow the small organic
companies that they have bought to give them
entry. Will the farmers concerns for high standards
and the long-term interests of the organic name
prevail over temptations to make a quick buck by
lowering the threshold and allowing a synthetic dye
here or caking agent there? That is a tougher call.
American corporations are notorious for fxating on
the short-term for growth and returns, which is in
strong contrast to the long-term thinking necessary
for building soil, cleaning water and reestablishing
biodiversity.
But it certainly cant hurt that we can talk to each
other, enjoy common experiences, and try to fnd
joint values and goals that let us work together
despite the pressures and demands of the immediate
moment.
photo by Jylle Lardaro
John Ikerd, professor emeritus at the University of Missouri, speaks with Jerry DeWitt,
director of the Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture,
and Gary Zimmer of Wisconsins Bio-Ag consulting frm.
ORGANIC FARMETTE -- Foster, RI. Antique home on 6.5 organic (for more than 30
years) acres with berries, fruit, and large fenced vegetable garden. Indoor cooking hearth,
outdoor bake oven, barn w/studios, cabin, screened timber-frame porch, pool, trail.
Restored and energy effcient. Pls call 774-202-2035
Th e Nat ur al Far me r F a l l , 2 0 0 8 42
by Dorothy Suput,
Executive Director, The Carrot Project
We paid for our land with our credit card.
-- Becky, a New York farmer
For todays small, midsized, and limited-resource
farmers, fnding suffcient capital to fnance
their businesses can be a challenge. Tightening
regulations, limited USDA-Farm Service Agency
budgets, and consolidation of lending institutions
have resulted in fewer lenders with agricultural
expertise or mandates. Community development
fnance institutions (CDFI) fnance many small
businesses, but were pioneered to address urban
issues and typically have little or no agricultural
expertise. The dominant agricultural lenders in the
Northeast do offer credit, but do not adequately
serve small and midsized farm operators who run
start-ups, want to expand their operations, have
unique business models, or lack adequate collateral.
The Carrot Project is a not-for-proft organization
dedicated to making loans and guarantees available
to small and midsized farmers, as well as to limited-
resource farmers and those using ecologically
friendly practices. As part of a study to better
understand the fnancing obstacles facing small and
midsized farms, 700 farmers, in New England and
New York, responded to a survey about fnancing.
The study found that 25% of small farmers who
applied for fnancing cant get the money they need
and that small farmers may beneft from alternative
fnancing services and business technical assistance.
Short- and intermediate-termed loans at a median
amount of nearly $30,000 are sought by farmers,
along with fexible payment options, additional
security, and farm real estate fnancing at a median
amount of $165,000. Findings also identifed
interest in equity fnancing. Their answers make it
clear that there is a need for new forms of technical
and fnancial assistance that address the needs,
particularly, of start ups and expanding businesses.
Debt Financing
The farms most likely to apply for operating or
capital fnancing were those with managers or
operators with more than fours years of farming
experience, higher gross farm incomes, and more
mature businesses. This profle was strongest for
operators with gross farm incomes of $117,000
or more who applied for operating and capital
fnancing at 60 percent and 46 percent respectively
(Table 1). This is at least double the application
rate for all respondents. Yet, according to the 2002
Agricultural Census, New York and New England
farms grossing more than $100,000 per year make
up 15% of the farm population. Farms operating
less than 10 years were most likely to apply for
fnancing for farm real estate (Table 2).
Table 1: Applied for fnancing by gross farm
income.
Table 2: Applied for fnancing by years in business.
Are Northeast Farms in a Financing Fix?
Reasons for Denial
Not surprisingly, the survey indicated that securing
fnancing is diffcult for farmers with limited capital,
lack of credit history, and insuffcient cash fow.
When measured by stage of business, start-up
operations were the most likely businesses in our
survey to be denied fnancing, but they applied at
lower rates than expanding or mature businesses.
Farms with the highest gross farm income were the
least likely to be denied fnancing.
Table 3: Rates of denial by stage of business.
It should also be noted that nine percent of all
respondents to the survey were asked to provide
additional security to obtain operating or capital
fnancing. Eighty percent of the farms needing
additional security were in the three lowest gross
income categories. This means that programs
addressing lack of collateral could be useful to
farms within different income categories.
Table 4: Farms needing security to obtain fnancing
by gross farm income.
In The Carrot Project survey, start-up farms were
the most likely to be denied fnancing. However,
because of their relatively low loan application
rate, the number of start-ups denied fnancing
is comparable to the number of expanding
businesses (See Table 5). Expanding businesses
are different from starts ups in that they share
more characteristics of the average respondent.
Expanding farm businesses had income levels
that were similar to the average, but were slightly
more likely to be in the highest or lowest income
categories. Sixty-four percent of expanding
businesses were operating between 5 to 20 years
versus 42 percent in the general survey population.
Table 5: The percent of farms denied fnancing by
stage of business.
It is important for organizations intending to
support small and midsized farms to know the
reasons why farm businesses are denied fnancing
before they can address fnancing gaps through
business technical assistance, alternative fnancial
services, or both. In general, insuffcient cash fow
and lack of a reasonable business plan may be
addressed with technical assistance. For example,
a farms business can be examined to determine if
expenses could be lowered or profts increased by
adjusting certain aspects of the business and thereby
increasing cash fow. Lack of credit history, lenders
unfamiliarity with a specifc business enterprise, or
lack of collateral might be addressed by alternative
fnancing programs designed to respond to these
situations.
Diffculty of Obtaining Financing
The perceived ease of obtaining fnancing was
lowest among start-up operations, average among
expanding businesses, and highest for mature
businesses. Respondents perceived that fnancing
with fexible payments was the most diffcult to
obtain. This fnding refected prior research, done
through lender focus groups, which found a need
for fexible payment schedules such as deferring
principal payments, skipped payments, and annual
payments. This information is important because it
indicates that fexible payment options should be
considered when developing or modifying existing
fnancing programs.
Equity Financing
Equity fnancing is a strategy in which an investor
gives capital (cash) to a farmer in exchange for
partial ownership of the farm or for an agreed upon
share of the farms future profts. There might
be an agreement for the farmer to buy back the
share of the farm that was sold to the investor. The
responses to our survey provide an important initial
benchmark for how farmers perceive this little-used
fnancing option in agriculture. Thirteen percent
of survey respondents expressed that they were
interested or very interested in equity fnancing if
there were an option to share profts or buy back
shares. When including farmers who said they
were somewhat interested, the number increased
to 30 percent. Start-ups and expanding businesses
expressed the greatest interest in equity fnancing.
This could indicate that for dynamic and growing
businesses, available capital is inadequate. It may
also refect receptiveness to new types of fnancing
arrangements.
Table 6: Interest in equity fnancing by stage of
business.
At a time where established farmers in the Northeast
are rapidly aging, and young, entry-level farmers
are needed to replace them, it is not a good sign
that between 20 and 25 percent of the farmers
we surveyed who had requested fnancing were
denied. And while The Carrot Project concedes
that not every request for farm fnancing could or
should be granted, our research indicates that farm
start-ups and expanding businesses are particularly
vulnerable. It is our intent to begin meeting the
fnancing needs of this important but underserved
population. Currently we are talking with different
farm organizations and lenders about building
upon or starting targeted fnancing and technical
assistance programs in New York and New England.
If you would like to read the complete report on
which this article is based or learn more about the
work of The Carrot Project, please visit our website
at www.thecarrotproject.org. If you would like a
copy of the report mailed to you, please contact
Dorothy Suput at 617-666-9637.
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