Features

Gelcoat Blister Repair

How to identify, repair and prevent gelcoat blisters
plus a step-by-step demonstration of Peel-Away
bottom paint remover.
Cast-Off
Compass adjusting; Multi-use block and tackle.
Engine
Troubleshooting
Oil filter wrench; Quick-fix for barnacles; Inboard
flush-out valve; Adding a blade or two; Diesel
engine troubleshooting.
DIY Projects
DIY Dock box design contest: win a DIY binder;
Footlights from nav lights; Cockpit line organizer;
Chafing strip for tenders.
Electronics
Plug into AC Power with an inverter.
Powerboat Rigging
Complete guide to installing and operating trim tabs.
Sailboat Rigging
Taking control of your mainsail; Inner forestay for
furlers.
b
o
a
t

o
w
n
e
r
DIY
FALL 1995
INSIDE
Winter Lay-up
A step-by-step guide to preparing your boat for
storage PLUS propane system lay-up procedures.
Departments
TalkBack
DIY boat owner's Information Exchange
TechTips
Boat-tested tips.
Refer to DIY 1999 #4 for current
specs on Inverter sizing and
installation guidelines.
HOME
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
T
ALKBACK
Q. I will be installing an inverter on my boat. Do I have
to ground it and if yes, where and how do I do this? As I
plan on installing it in the next week or so, a prompt reply
would be appreciated.
Raymond Leduc, Ottawa, ON
A. Grounding an inverter DC system is always recom-
mended practice. There are two reasons for grounding.
The first is a safety precaution in an effort to prevent
shock. Secondly, the grounding system will minimize
stray current thus reducing any likelihood of corrosion.
Some inverters, such as Statpower, have the ground
and the negative connected internally. If this is the case,
then one does not have to run a separate ground.
The newer Trace inverters have the DC side isolated
from any input voltages. This allows for either a positive
or negative ground. Your boat's system will dictate which
ground is used. The ground wire should be run to the bat-
tery terminal or to the boat's system ground. The size of
grounding wire should be no smaller than the largest cur-
4
rent-carrying wire. Your local dealer should be able to
supply you with the type of grounding used in your partic-
ular inverter.
Spencer Evans, Marine Account Manager, Soltek Solar
Energy, Victoria, BC; (800) 727-2135.
Q. I have a 15-year-old Sunfish that is in fine shape
except for the red deck. The latter has lost its sheen. Can
you suggest any product that would help to restore its
original lustre?
William Bateman, Pointe Au Baril, ON
A. Our Winter issue includes test results of four fiber-
glass restorers, if you can wait till then.
Replacing Filters on
Universals
Owners of sailboats equipped with Universal diesel
engines take note. Although your engine has a Japanese-
made Kubota engine block, be careful if you replace
your oil filter with a Kubota-brand oil filter. Some dealers
have been selling metric filters as replacements. The oil fil-
ter assembly nipple on Universal model #5424 engine
(and some other models) is made of aluminum and fits
imperial-sized filters only. Steel threads on a metric oil fil-
ter will remove the bite on the assembly nipple and your
filter can fall off. The result is a black oily mess and if you
have not caught it in time, destruction of an expensive
engine.
Maurice Turner, Victoria, BC
Maurice publishes a quarterly newsletter for Aloha 10.4
owners. Anyone interested in receiving a copy should
write him at: 1386 Oliver St., Victoria, BC V8S 4X2.
TRADE NEWS
It's now Sir Peter and Sir Robin. Peter Blake, the
chief of Team New Zealand, whose Black Magic
won the America's Cup in May and Robin Knox-
Johnson, who was the first man to single-handedly
circumnavigate the world nonstop (in 1969), were
knighted by Queen Elizabeth in June for "their
services to yachting."
Need help with a problem?
Unable to find information on
products or do-it-yourself pro-
jects? DIY TALKBACK is a spe-
cial reader service that makes
available to you the resources
of marine industry experts cov-
ering such topics as boat
repair, engines, trailers, electric-
ity, plumbing, electronics, sails,
maintenance and more
everything you need to know to
keep your boat in safe and
"Bristol" condition.
Send your questions today to TALKBACK, DIY
Boat Owner, P.O. Box 22473 , Alexandria, VA
22304 or you can email it to info@diy-boat.com.
Include your name, boat name and home port.
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
SAFE BOATING BOOK FOR KIDS
Yare Cruising! is a unique, fully illustrated book designed to teach children
about boating. In this 24-page book, children will learn about boat han-
dling, boating safety, rules of the road,
navigation, weather tips, preserving
the environment and more. Illustrated
and created by Anne-Marie Hendry,
a marina operator and former car-
tographer, detailed color illustra-
tions made of three-dimensional
plasticine artwork demonstrate
practical procedures presented
in an easy-to-understand for-
mat. The book is written by
DIY's own editor, Jan Mundy. Yare
Cruising! is endorsed by Canadian Power &
Sail Squadrons, Royal Life Saving Society, Canadian
Yachting Association and others. A price of CDN$6.95 includes taxes, ship-
ping and handling. For additional information or to order copies contact the
illustrator at: RR #3, Beaverton, ON L0K 1A0; Tel: (705) 426-7343, Fax:
(705) 426-7258.
Erratum
On page 45 in the Summer Issue we incorrectly classified the Pro Pal Safety
Cell. This unit "complies" with codes established by the Canadian Gas
Association and Canadian Coast Guard, it is not approved by the two
groups. Further research found that there are, in fact, no standards regulat-
ing propane installations in recreational boats in Canada. Insurance compa-
nies stipulate that installations must be done by a gas fitter, but as yet there
is no marine certification. Boat owners should obtain a complete set of instal-
lation guidelines from the coast guard or ask your servicing dealer.
We neglected to mention Epifanes Woodfinish in the article on teak mainte-
nance beginning on page 34. This one-component finish is specially formu-
lated for application on teak.
In our Spring Issue, the price quoted for Epifanes Deck Coating on page 38
was too high. A 1-litre (.88 qt ) can retails for CDN$32.90.
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
T
ECH TIPS
BUG DEFENSE: There's nothing
worse than traveling at high speeds
and having your eye skewered by a
high-flying critter. Try wearing a ball
cap (if you can keep in on your
head) that has a nylon mesh liner
inside the peak. Pull the liner over
your eyes and instantly you have a
made-to-measure bug screen.
Anne-Marie Hendry, Beaverton, ON
TEAK TREATMENT: To treat
mildewed teak after the chemical
cleaning process, mix a solution of
one part bleach to three parts water
and follow with a clean water rinse.
PLASTIC WAX: Protect Lexan
ports and hatch covers by coating
them with a commercial car wax,
such as Turtle Wax, after each clean-
ing. Once Lexan crazes, the dam-
age is permanent.
FLOSS FOR SAILS: Waxed den-
tal floss is not only good for your
teeth but it doubles as a strong
sewing thread for repairing seams
and tears in sailcloth or canvas.
Bob York, Oakville, ON
BLOWOUTS: To prevent an explo-
sion when drilling into a hull, be sure
the bilge is completely ventilated and
free of any gas fumes.
MORE ABOUT ACRYLICS:
When installing a vent with a stain-
less steel deck ring in an acrylic
(Plexiglas, Lexan) hatch, overcut the
hole by .3cm (1/8"). Heat causes
acrylics to expand then crack if hard-
ware is mounted too snug.
Sandy Currie, Oakville, ON
PARTS TO SPARE: We learned
a valuable lesson when topping up
the tanks before our first run of the
season: always carry a spare fuel
cap. An overzealous fuel attendant
yanked the gas cap off with such
force it parted the retaining chain
and flew into the water. Dredging
the bottom with a huge magnet only
netted some rusted old chain. There
was a marine store nearby but natu-
rally, the size we needed was out of
stock. Fortunately, we were close to
home and found another fuel cap
buried deep in a tool kit.
VINYL FIX: Carry a repair kit for
inflatables on board for when you
accidentally slash the vinyl seat cush-
ions. For a quick Band-Aid, duct
tape seals vinyl in a pinch.
SHAFT CLAMP: If you're con-
cerned about the propeller shaft part-
ing from the coupling and exiting out
the stern (yes, this can happen),
install a zinc anode around the shaft
inboard of the stuffing box.
FUEL STRAINER: Clean fuel is
critical to the continuing good health
of your engine. If you suspect that
fuel is contaminated use a filter. And
when you're without one, use a cof-
fee filter for gasoline and a nylon
stocking or pantyhose for diesel. It
takes longer but keeps harmful dirt
out of the tank.
ODOR EATER: When leaving the
boat for extended periods, place
high-grade charcoal in plastic trays,
punch holes in the top and place in
bottom of lockers to absorb odors
and moisture.
GAP FILLER: To fill small holes,
gouges or splits in wood trim, clean
the repair area with acetone, sand
and let dry. Fill with dust from the
sander mixed with epoxy glue. The
dust makes a good match to the
wood.
NOISELESS SLUMBER: Things
that squeak in the night means get-
ting little shut-eye on overnight cruis-
es. When the sound of a fender rub-
bing against the hull is driving you
mad, pour some liquid detergent
(preferrably biodegradable) over it.
You also get the added benefit of
spot cleaning both fender and hull.
Vicki De Kleer, Mollyhawk,
Bronte, ON
FISHING STORIES: Here are
some tips from a local fisherwoman.
Im not certain if theyre legal or
environmentally safe but was
assured either method guarantees
some action. Spray WD-40 or other
moisture-displacing lubricant on
lures. Its like perfume to fish and
hides the human smell. Hang
colored, triangular-shaped plastic
flags from your anchor rode before
lowering. Wait one hour.
Supposedly, the bright colors and
sound waves produced by the
streaming flags will attract fish within
a mile radius. Any excuse for a
party!
Tech Tips welcomes contributions
from readers. If you have a boat-
tested tip youd like to share, send
complete information along with
your name, boat name and home
port to:
DIY Tech Tips,
P.O. Box 22473,
Alexandira, VA, 22304
Or E-mail to
diy@diy-boat.com

CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
b
o
a
t

o
w
n
e
r
DIY
H o w t o
I d e n t i f y,
R e p a i r a n d
P r e v e n t
POX
the
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Osmosis starts
with a minuscule
air bubble
trapped between
gelcoat and lami-
nate (1). Moisture
penetrates the
slightly porous
gelcoat, causing
the blister to
expand (2).
Moisture gradual-
ly breaks down
and dissolves the
polyester resin.
This watery solu-
tion collects in the
microscopic voids
in the solidified
resin, increasing
moisture absorp-
tion through the
gelcoat and
creating a highly
concentrated,
sour-smelling
substance. This
substance builds
up pressure and
causes blistering
of the gelcoat (3).
As a result of the
pressure build-up,
the gelcoat sepa-
rates from the
laminate. The
pressure in the
blister continues
to grow and even-
tually, causes the
blister to burst (4).
Variations in resins, catalysts, humid-
ity and workmanship in the manu-
facturing process all determine when
and to what extent gelcoat blisters
appear.
Repair Techniques
Sealing the gelcoat from moisture
with an epoxy-based coating helps
to prevent osmosis. If your boat
develops small and shallow blisters
you can repair it yourself. The best
time to spot blisters is when the boat
is first hauled out of the water.
Immediately mark the blisters with a
waterproof pen. Blisters may begin
to disappear within a few hours but
will reabsorb water when the boat is
launched.
Osmosis may not be evident
under several coats of antifouling.
Scraping or sanding may reveal
bumps or crescent-shaped cracks
from the size of a match head to a
quarter. Before beginning to remove
the antifouling paint, wash and
clean the hull area being repaired.
Removing all of the surface contami-
nants marine growths such as
algae, barnacles, sea grass, etc.
is the first thing that needs to be
GELCOAT
BLISTER
REPAIR
More than 30 years ago, the use of
fiberglass and resin to build boats
revolutionized the marine manufac-
turing process.
Renown for high strength, dura-
bility and presumed low mainte-
nance, fiberglass was deemed to be
almost indestructible. In the early
70s, it was rumored that fiberglass
boats were being devoured by
"polyestermites." Those in the know
compared these glass-eating bugs to
the teredo worm, the nemesis of
wooden boat owners. It was discov-
ered to be a hoax; although perhaps
the mites creators forewarned of
what we now call osmosis.
A fiberglass hull is composed of
two layers. The base layer, or poly-
ester resin-reinforced fiberglass lami-
nate, is covered by gelcoat, a pig-
mented polyester resin. All fiberglass
laminates are semipermeable, mean-
ing they allow water to pass through
the outer layers. Osmosis is the
process of moisture seeping into the
fiberglass laminate, either through
the gelcoat layer or internally from
the bilge areas. As moisture migrates
into the laminate it fills voids,
becomes trapped and creates an
acidic blister fluid. Still seeking to dif-
fuse equally throughout the substrate,
the water between the laminate and
outer surface places pressure on the
gelcoat. The resulting blemishes or
blisters that form between the lami-
nate and the gelcoat affect the
appearance and performance of the
boat. As excessive moisture is the
culprit, blistering usually only occurs
below the waterline.
When blisters are left unchecked
they will progressively extend deeper
into the laminate and affect the struc-
tural integrity of the hull. The term
used to describe the chemical reac-
tion between polyester resin lami-
nates and water is hydrolysis. Over
time, blister fluids attack the resin in
the laminate, severing the chemical
bond between the resin and lami-
nate. As it progresses, the bottom
becomes spongy and delaminates.
Unfortunately, this condition is not
reversible but can be repaired once
it has started. Any hydrolyzed lami-
nate on a boat must be removed and
the bottom relaminated. This usually
requires the services of a profession-
al.
Regardless of the quality of con-
struction, osmosis blistering and
water absorption into the laminate
occur in most boats sooner or later.
It's the nature of the beast!
A
K
Z
O

S
I
K
K
E
N
S
9
Steps to
Blister
Repair
1 Wash and clean area
2 Remove bottom paint
3 Remove gelcoat
4 Expose and clean
blister area
5 Dry out hull
6 Seal repair area
7 Fill and fair repair
area
8 Apply barrier coats
9 Apply primer and
antifouling paint
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
done. Use an acid-based
cleaner to quickly dissolve
any growth and grime.
Next, remove the bot-
tom paint from the affect-
ed areas using a 24- to
36- grit abrasive. This
should take off 60% to
70% of the bottom paint.
Some abrasives are
specifically designed for
this process. They utilize a
special coating process to
prevent them from loading
on soft bottom paints and
fairing compounds and
give an increased cut rate.
Use a finer grit (60 to 100) to
remove the remaining coating. Make
sure you take the proper safety pre-
cautions before sanding. When
removing bottom paint or sanding
fiberglass and gelcoat always wear
protective clothing, gloves and a
face respirator. Some manufacturers
do not recommend using chemical
paint strippers to remove bottom
paints. Such products facilitate paint
removal but may damage gelcoat or
the polyester resin in the laminate.
Another option is to use Peel Away,
a non-methylene-chloride stripper
that removes multiple bottom paint
coatings from fiberglass, wood,
steel, aluminum (see product demo
on page 10).
Where a bottom
has small, isolated blisters
it is not necessary to
remove the gelcoat.
Clean the surface with a
dewaxer or solvent wash.
Open each blister individ-
ually then fill and fair the
blister cavities followed
by an epoxy coating. Use
a countersink bit on a
variable-speed drill to
open blisters. Wear pro-
tective clothing and eye
protection (goggles or full
face shield). The acidic
fluid may be under as much as 200
psi of pressure.
If the bottom is covered with
small or large blisters that go into the
laminate, you'll need to remove the
gelcoat surface down to the fiber-
glass laminate and at least 5cm (2")
above the waterline. This is accom
Sandblasting removes gelcoat and opens blister cavities but
must be done by a competent operator.
I
N
T
E
R
L
U
X
Continued on page 9


DIY EZINE
www.diy-boat.com
Now you can access DIY Boat Owner Magazines anytime, anywhere.
You can read, print or search the current issue plus 7 most recent back issues of DIY,
then receive 3 more issues for a total of 11 issues per year! Subscribers to the EZINE
also qualify for DIY's FREE Technical Assistance.
Try Before you Buy - Log onto www.diy-boat.com and click on "Free Trial" to
view 1 issue.
To subscribe to DIY EZINE, follow the instructions online or call 1-888-658-BOAT.
No more storage Searchable Instant access anywhere
11
Issues
The Portable Solution
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
BOTTOM
PAINT
REMOVAL
Peel-Away is a two-component
system that removes multiple coats
of antifouling paint from fiber-
glass, wood, steel, aluminum.
Manufactured by Dumond
Chemicals, (1501 Broadway,
New York, NY 10036; Tel: (212)
869-6350), it contains no methyl-
ene chloride and will not harm
gelcoat. It's available in two for-
mulations: Peel-Away Marine
Safety Strip for most applications
and Peel-Away II for boats coated
with an epoxy primer or barrier
coat. The manufacturer recom-
mends first doing a test patch
when the coating type is
unknown. It removes up to 10
coats, often in a single applica-
tion.
Last spring we attended a
demonstration conducted by Tom
Pollock of Payne Distributors, the
Canadian wholesaler. The test
boat was an old steel hulk lay-
ered with multiple coats of some
unknown bottom paint. Applying
Peel-Away is similar to wallpaper-
ing. A non-sagging paste with a
consistency like mayonnaise coats
the bottom paint and then is cov-
ered with strips of plastic-coated
paper. The paper seals the paste
and prevents evaporation.
Peel Away's only drawback
is time. Depending on the thick-
ness of paint and outside temper-
ature, it takes 12 to 48 hours
before you can remove the paper
and scrape the surface. While it's
more expensive than sandpaper
or discs, it's a lot less strenuous
and definitely less hazardous to
your health. Albeit it's a relatively
safe product (contains no sol-
vents), you should wear protective
clothing and gloves and work is a
well-ventilated area. Optimum
working temperature is 15.5 C
(60 F); below 7 C (45 F) the
product becomes dormant.
Cost to strip a 7.5m (25')
boat using the standard Peel-
Away product averages $250.
Coverage is 40 to 50 square
feet per 3.785L (1 US gallon).
The list price of CDN$80/
US$50 per gallon includes strips
of laminated cloth.
Remove any flaking or peel-
ing paint with a wire brush.
Apply a thick coating of
paste, about .3cm to .5cm
(1/8" to 3/16"), with a
large brush. Work in .9 sq.m (3
sq. ft.) sections, covering all
traces of bottom paint. Protect
painted bootstripes with a sol-
vent-resistant striping tape.
Cut laminated cloth into
small strips (especially on a
windy day) and cover paste
with the printed side facing
out. Lightly press surface
with hand or a roller. Trim
edges, allowing about .6cm
(1/4") overhang. Wait 12 to 48
hours, depending on the thick-
ness of the coating.
Check a small area to test if
ready. Slide a large paint
scraper under the fabric and
ease paste, paint and cloth
away from the surface in
one piece. Scrape excess paste
with putty knife, being careful not
to scratch the hull.
Remove all remaining
residue with water and a 3M
Scotch Brite pad. Do not let
the paste dry as it hardens
and will require sanding.
A single application
removed all paint on our test
area.
1
2
3
4
5
5
4
3
2
1
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
plished by either sandblasting, peel-
ing or grinding. Sandblasting with
sand or other mediums will remove
the gelcoat and open any blister cav-
ities but must be done by a compe-
tent operator in the wrong hands,
sandblasting can blast a hole right
through the laminate. It's effective
but can embed particles in the lami-
nate and leave a bumpy finish.
Gelcoat peeling is the most efficient
method of removing gelcoat. It leaves
a clean, smooth surface, but because
it requires expensive hand-held or
robotic equipment, must be done by
a contractor. Grinding is painstaking
slow and messy work but the most
common solution for do-it-yourselfers.
Use a grinder fitted with a soft
back-up pad and 24- to 36 grit discs
and grind until you reach the lami-
nate layer. Hold the grinder at a low
angle to avoid gouges. Be careful
not to cut into the laminate. Often
grinding removes all blistering occur-
ring between the gelcoat and skin
coat, the first layer of mat. If you can
still see light-colored circles of delam-
ination, you'll need to remove the
damaged laminate. Using a 7.6cm
(3") 24- or 36- grit grinding disc on
a drill attachment, grind out the cont-
aminated laminate area, forming
small craters until all signs of delami-
nation are removed. Gougeon
Brothers recommend "sounding" the
hull with a rubber mallet to detect
any laminate degradation. Wet or
delaminated areas will sound dull or
flat; dry, solid laminate has a sharp
sound. If there is evidence of delami-
nation or blistering above the water-
line consult a surveyor.
Scrub the area with detergent
and flush out with freshwater to
remove any contaminants. Allow the
area to dry to remove all moisture
from the bottom. Drying could take
anywhere from two weeks to two
months or possibly longer depending
on the severity of the blistering. The
more blistering, the more water the
hull has retained. Removing all of the
moisture from the hull prior to repair-
ing and recoating will minimize the
possibility of blisters reoccurring.
Infrared heat lamps or tenting the
hull area with plastic sheeting will
speed up the drying process. In the
latter case, wrap the bottom in plas-
tic, held in place above the waterline
with tape and weighted at the bot-
tom to form a tight seal.
Dehumidifiers and small fans to keep
the air moving are placed inside the
tent. Keep the bilge dry and well
ventilated to prevent moisture from
entering the laminate from the inside.
If the boat is stored inside, use
heaters or fans to force dry the sur-
face.
J
A
N

M
U
N
D
Y
Damage can range from a few small blisters to an entire hull dotted with the "pox."
Use a grinder with a foam disc pad to
remove bottom paint.
GELCOAT
BLISTER
REPAIR
3
M
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Check the moisture content of
the fiberglass laminate with a mois-
ture meter before applying any coat-
ing. Test the hull both above and
below the waterline in several areas
every two to three feet apart. Mark
the spots on the hull where you take
the readings and every few weeks
again check the moisture content. A
meter reading of 2% or 3% is recom-
mended. Another method to deter-
mine hull dryness is to lay 30.4cm
(12") squares of clear plastic sheet
over the surface and seal all edges
with tape. Leave for at least 24
hours. If condensation forms, the hull
requires further drying. Remove the
plastic, wipe the area and plastic
dry and repeat until the plastic
remains dry.
When thoroughly dry, wash the
bottom again with freshwater. Scrub
the surface with a 3M Scotch Brite
pad to remove any surface contami-
nates leached out during drying such
as glycol, a liquid component of
polyester resins that unlike water,
does not evaporate. Some manufac-
turers recommend pressure washing
the hull with hot freshwater every
three to four weeks during the drying
processing to remove all glycol con-
tained in the laminate. When the sur-
face has thoroughly dried, apply a
sealer coat to cover the exposed
laminate surfaces. These sealers are
typically low viscosity epoxy coat-
ings designed to seal voids and pin
holes prior to applying a fairing
compound and barrier coatings.
Follow the manufacturer's directions.
Epoxy coatings developed for blister
repair include many epoxy resin sys-
tems (West Systems, East Epoxy and
others), Interlux's Interprotect System
and Sikkens Epoxy GP System.
The surface is now ready for
fairing. Fairing is the process of mak-
ing the surface flat and smooth
again. Any surface bumps or dents
in the hull will result in a decrease in
performance and appearance.
Apply the fairing compound to fill
the exposed cavities. Use large putty
knives and battens to apply a
smooth layer of filler. Several thin
coats are better than one thick coat.
Don't use a polyester fairing com-
pound below the waterline. Epoxy or
vinylester work best here. Again, fol-
low the manufacturer's instructions.
When dry, sand off high spots,
remove dust and refill low spots. Be
sure there are no pinholes or glass
strands protruding through the filler.
Once the fairing compound
material has dried, proceed to sand
or "rough shape" with 36-grit sand-
paper or disc to knock down the
material quickly. Don't sand too
Multiple coats of Interprotect or other barrier coating are applied after filling the
blisters and fairing the surface.
Estimating
Coverage
Use the following
formulas to calcu-
late the square
footage of the
underwater area
when estimating
coverage of epoxy-
based coatings and
antifouling paints:
For displacement
powerboats and full-
keel sailboats
Beam + draft x LWL
(waterline length) =
square footage
Planing powerboats
and modified-keel
sailboats
Beam + draft x
LWL x .75 = square
footage
Fin-keel sailboats
Beam + draft x
LWL x .50 = square
footage
A simple method to determine hull dry-
ness is to tape squares of clear plastic
sheet over the surface.
I
N
T
E
R
L
U
X
I
N
T
E
R
L
U
X
GELCOAT
BLISTER
REPAIR
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
much or you will have to apply more fairing compound
to your low spots. Finish sanding with 80 grit followed by
180 grit to refine the surface for painting. Follow manu-
facturer's instructions for finishing details.
Multiple coats of a recommended epoxy barrier
coating followed by a primer and antifouling paint are
now applied according to manufacturer's instructions at
this time. Wash the hull with the recommended solvent
before applying primer.
Prevention
Is osmosis preventable? It's estimated that one in four
fiberglass boats will get gelcoat blisters in its lifetime. The
obvious answer is yes, there are preventative measures
you can take to slow down and delay this occurrence.
The first line of defense is your boat's gelcoat. Apply a
barrier coating to new hulls before commissioning. Other
protective measures such as dry storage, frequent spot
repair of defects in the gelcoat and additional hull coat-
ings will help slow down and delay the possibility of blis-
ters forming.
Epoxy coatings applied on a sound, dry hull provide
a durable, water-resistant barrier; however no system is
foolproof. Even epoxy coatings allow some absorption.
The key to a successful repair is to remove all of the dam-
aged laminate, thoroughly dry the hull and correctly
apply the barrier coats. To reduce the possibility of blis-
ters reoccurring keep the bilge as dry as possible and the
boat well ventilated. Install additional vents to eliminate
condensation. Solar-powered vents offer an efficient and
affordable means of increasing air flow. Finally, check
the barrier coat annually. If scraped and dinged, repair
and recoat promptly.
Many thanks to Joe Dardis, 3M Marine Technical Service
Specialist for contributions to this article.
DIY Repair Bill
Approximate cost for repairing a 7.8m (26') sailboat
covered with small blisters. In this example, sandblast-
ing was not necessary. Prices vary depending on the
blister repair product used. Professional yards charge
about $100 per foot (LOA) for a complete blister
repair. Estimates for DIYers run about $60 per foot.
Dewaxer $50
Fairing compound $200
Epoxy coating $350
Anti-fouling primer (1 coat) $90
Anti-fouling paint (2 coats) $280
Rollers, sandpaper, discs, brushes, solvent $100
TOTAL $1,070
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
ADJUSTING A
COMPASS
Using a hand-bearing
compass is simpler
than the traditional
"swinging" of the
compass.
The compass is the single most
important navigation instrument on
your boat. Although most fiberglass
and wood boats do not have any
magnetic influence on the compass,
lockers and shelves are used to store
tools and equipment which are mag-
netic. Speakers, steel eyeglass
frames, engine instruments and con-
trols, electronic wiring, pocket
knives, even flashlight batteries can
throw a compass off by many
degrees.
To adjust your compass and tab-
ulate a deviation table use the fol-
lowing procedure. Store all magnet-
ic-influenced gear in its usual place,
put wiper blades (powerboats) in
"Off" position and keep all magnetic
sources away from the compass.
You may need a non-magnetic
screwdriver (a dime works well) to
adjust the compass set screws.
Pick a calm day when wind and
current will not set the boat off
course. You must first run several
east to west and north to south cours-
es to zero-in your compass before
compensating. You'll need an inde-
pendent reference to run the exact
reciprocals for reference while doing
this. Floating markers, a range
ashore or a shadow pin compass
work well. (A shadow pin compass
is like a pelorus but with a tall center
pin that casts a shadow out to the
circle of degree marks.)
First run an easterly (90 degree)
course using the steering compass.
Return on the reciprocal (270
degrees) using the alternate refer-
ence. This could be done by using a
temporary floating marker or sight-
ing on a range ashore. The return
course must be exactly 180 degrees
to the original. Note how much the
steering compass differs. While still
maintaining the reciprocal course,
adjust the E-W adjustment screw on
the compass (check owner's manual
for location) to cancel half the
amount of the error. Repeat the run
and double check your calculation.
Next run a north course (000
degrees), then the reciprocal (180
degrees). Again note the error and
adjust the N-S adjustment screw to
cancel half the error. Rerun the
course to double check. Go back to
recheck the east-west course. Most
likely it will need a small additional
adjustment since all these adjust-
ments are interactive. Repeat proce-
dure if necessary.
When you have removed as
much of the gross deviation as possi-
ble, you are ready to make up the
deviation table. Professional com-
pass adjusters prefer to use a gyro
compass for reference or a number
of accurate shore ranges. To do the
latter you must use a pelorus, but
now you need an extra crew mem-
ber. While crossing the range and
maintaining a constant heading the
relative bearing of the range is mea-
sured with the pelorus. Calculations
are made to correct for ship's head-
ing. The difference between the cal-
culated bearing and the actual bear-
ing as measured on the chart is the
deviation on that heading. This pro-
cedure is time consuming and prone
to error by inexperienced persons. It
requires considerable skill and prac-
tice, not to mention a pelorus.
An easier way to measure the
residual deviation is to use a hand-
bearing compass which has one-
degree graduations. Have a crew
member hold the compass some-
where on the boat's centerline where
there is no local magnetic influence.
Hold the compass steady, aligning
the centerline with the card to accu-
rately measure the boat's magnetic
heading. The helmsman steers
courses at 15-degree intervals
maintaining each heading until
the crew notes the corresponding
hand-bearing compass reading. It
helps if the helmsman calls "mark"
or "good" when the steering com-
pass is actually right on course. At
that instant the other person records
the reading. This process works even
when the compasses are swinging
either side of the exact heading. Do
this check with all equipment and
electronics in their normal operating
C
AST OFF
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
position when cruising.
As tempting as it might seem, do
not use your GPS (if equipped) course
over ground (COG) readout. The dis-
played value is an averaged value
indicating the mean course made
good between successive positions,
not the instantaneous heading of the
boat. Your instantaneous heading
could be off by five or 10 degrees.
The only exception would be if you
steer towards a distant mark with a
known location entered as a way-
point. The bearing to waypoint from
present position can be used for a ref-
erence provided you take your read-
ings at the exact instant the compass
is pointing directly at the distant
mark. For accurate results you must
use a mark at least five miles away
and high enough to be visible at all
times. This method is only suitable for
checking specific headings, not for
checking every heading at 15-degree
intervals.
The next step is to produce a
final deviation table. The simplest is
to have a three-column table with
magnetic course (as read from the
head-bearing compass) in column 1,
deviation in the center and the com-
pass heading in column 3. The incre-
ments could be as little as five
degrees or as much as 30 (the test
above uses 15-degree increments).
A pictorial method is to have two
compass roses with lines connecting
related points. One rose is the mag-
netic heading, the other is the boat's
heading. If the known magnetic or
compass direction falls between two
values, use the largest deviation
amount. Should you need a more
accurate result, both methods
demand that you interpolate. There
are involved calculations for deter-
mining precise magnetic and com-
pass headings that are beyond the
scope of this article. Many naviga-
tion books refer to a Napier dia-
gram (named after the man who
developed it in the 1800s). This is a
more simplified chart that converts
between magnetic and compass
courses without separate tables.
Arild Jensen
KNOTTY
KNOW-HOW
One of the best knots for securing
the dinghy on deck, barber hauling
the jib, tying the canoe or cartopper
to a roof rack or car bumper, tighten-
ing the life lines, or any lines for that
matter, is the Trucker's Hitch. It's a
mechanical block and tackle which
gives a three to one purchase that's
easily released, even when wet or
under tension. To tie, hold the line in
your left hand, form a loop with the
fingers of your right-hand and twist
the rope counterclockwise two times
(Figure 1). Holding the twisted line
securely with your left hand, make a
small loop where the line is twisted
in the bitter end (free end) and draw
it through the first loop (Figure 2).
This forms the upper block and tack-
le. Pass the bitter end under the rack
or through an eye, block, cleat or
whatever (Figure 3). This becomes
the lower tackle. Route the line
through the upper loop and yank
down as hard as you can (Figure
4). To increase the pulling power,
wrap the bitter end under the sup-
port a second time. Draw tight and
tie off with a couple of half-hitches
(Figure 5).
1
2
3
5
4
SAMPLE DEVIATION TABLE
Boat's Deviation Boat's
Heading Heading
*Magnetic Compass
359 1W 000
013 2W 015
027 3W 030
040 5W 045
053 7W 060
213 3E 210
229 4E 225
247 7E 240
264 11E 255
285 15E 270
etc.
*Read from hand-bearing compass
Note: deviation is West if the compass course is greater than the magnetic
course.
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
T
ROUBLESHOOTING

ENGINE
EASY FILTER
REMOVAL
A standard automotive oil filter
wrench does a quick and easy job
of removing a water separating fuel
filter. This band wrench wraps
around the filter and tightens when
you apply pressure. Made of mild
steel, it will rust but you'll get a few
years of use before one needs
replacing. Inexpensive, the wrench is
available at most automotive supply
stores for $12 or less.
GETTING RID
OF BARNACLES
When zebra mussels or barnacles
clog your engine water intake there's
no need to haul the boat or hire the
services of a diver. A more economi-
cal alternate costs about $2 in mate-
rials and takes less than an hour to
complete. First close the seacock and
remove the intake hose. Affix a long
piece of rigid hose to the seacock.
Make sure the hose is long enough
to reach well above the waterline or
you'll have to man the pumps! Brace
the hose with a vertical pipe or
wood scrap. Open the seacock and
run a stiff wire (coat hanger) or
metal rod through the hose and sea-
cock to remove the varmints.
PROPELLERS:
ARE MORE
BLADES
BETTER?
Propeller technology has recently
given boaters more choices about
blades. Four, five and even six-
blade props are becoming popular
for their ability to reduce vibration
throughout the rpm range.
Four-blade props can improve
planing off time and fuel economy in
the cruising range. They significantly
reduce cavitation in turns and
improve
rough-water handling
and control. They're very efficient
when getting on plane because
there are more blades in the water
at once. In mid-range throttle, a four-
blade is most efficient. A boat can
normally pick up 2 to 4 mph as the
prop lowers the slip factor. But in
high range, they sometimes seem to
lose some performance, perhaps
because they create additional
drag. Generally, a three-blade pro-
peller will allow slightly better top-
end speed on most boats.
Five-blade props are well suited
for extremely heavy applications.
Such props can significantly increase
performance and handling over
three-blade props on high-mounted
motor/drive applications. This often
allows owners to improve not only
low-end and mid-range performance,
but top end as well. As higher engine
mounts reduce drag, multi-blade
props often allow the use of higher
pitches that can let an engine devel-
op more rpm and increase speed.
For water skiing, where engine
heights are usually low, multi-blade
props produce superior hole shots
and minimize speed variations.
However, adding more blades can
slightly reduce top-end speed.
Information supplied by
Mach Performance.
FLUSH-OUT
VALVE FOR
INBOARDS
Inboard engine systems that operate
in salt or brackish water should be
flushed at regular intervals with fresh-
water to prevent corrosion.
Forespar's Engine Flush Out Valve
makes this maintenance quick and
Forespar's Engine Flush Out Valve also
facilitates flushing out inboard engines
with antifreeze for winter lay-up.
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
DIESEL ENGINE
TROUBLESHOOTING
A guide to checking some of the most common prob-
lems with diesel inboard engines.
Symptom Check-over
Engine
will not
crank over
Engine cranks
but will not
Engine runs
then shuts
down
1/ Starting battery selector switch in
off or wrong position.
2/ Engine panel key switch not
turned on or malfunctioning.
3/ Battery connections at the engine
or battery are loose or corroded.
4/ Low battery power: you'll hear a
clicking of the starter solenoid without
engaging the starter.
5/ Seized transmission: check lubri-
cant level and color. Black oil is
caused by heat and seizure.
1/ Air in the fuel system (see
Bleeding a Diesel Engine, Spring '95).
start. 2/ Weak battery, faulty starter or bad
electrical connections.
3/ Clogged air filter(s), plugged
intake or blocked exhaust.
4/ Blocked fuel filter.
1/ Check fuel level in tank.
2/ Air in the fuel system.
3/ Contaminated fuel or clogged
filters.
4/ Faulty fuel pump.
5/ Clogged fuel tank fitting on top of
pickup tube.
6/ Fuel injection cut off due to faulty
governor or governor system.
Overheating
Full load
operation
impossible
Bad exhaust
color
Low engine
oil pressure
1/ Blocked thru-hull intake or water
strainer.
2/ Clogged or broken water pump
impeller.
3/ Thermostat is stuck closed.
4/ Dirty cooling system: flush with
cleaner.
1/ Clogged fuel filter.
2/ Worn fuel pump plunger.
1/ Incorrect fuel injection timing.
2/ Bad fuel.
3/ Faulty injection valve.
4/ Faulty intake and exhaust
valve adjustment.
5/ Leaking intake and exhaust valves.
1/ Leaking lubricating oil.
2/ Clogging oil filter.
3/ Loose oil regulator valve.
4/ Low lubricating oil viscosity.
5/ Excessive gas leaking into
crankcase.
easy. Made of Marelon, a glass-reinforced nylon
designed for marine use, it comes with a specially
designed thru-hull fitting that replaces the existing one.
The valve threads into the thru-hull and the barb end
connects to the engine intake cooling hose. When the
system needs to be flushed out, simply connect a garden
hose to the brass female coupler on top of the valve.
Turning the valve handle 90 degrees allows freshwater
to enter the system. It also works well with antifreeze
when flushing the engine for winter storage in cold cli-
mates. Available in four sizes from 2.54cm to 5cm (1"
to 2") in diameter, prices start at US$84.
DIY ONLINE
FREE Email Newsletters
Receive valuable tips and
troubleshooting information
with DIY boat owner's
bimonthly email newsletter.
It's FREE!
To sign up, just log onto
www.diy-boat.com
and click on
" FREE NEWSLETTER"
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
PROJECTS DIY
Illustrations by Anne-Marie Hendry
FOOTLIGHTS
FROM OLD NAV
LIGHTS
If you are planning to upgrade your
old navigation lights don't throw
them away, recycled them.
Thousands of boats were once
equipped with round stainless steel
dome lights containing a clear, red
or green plastic lens. While these
are totally inadequate as navigation
lights they can serve other uses.
Mounted on a vertical surface
such as a cockpit bulkhead or a
footwell with the lens opening
downwards, they make excellent
footlights while blocking any light
from going upwards into your eyes.
The stainless steel shell protects the
lens from falling objects. A white or
red lens is preferred; a green lens
could be used but it tends to make
everyone look seasick. Depending
on how many you scrounge, you
could even use them in the cabin,
on the companionway ladder or in
a closet or locker. Using a large
drill bit, drill a hole for the bulb and
wires. Attach 16-gauge wires to the
leads from the light and run the pos-
itive wire to your electrical panel
and the negative to a terminal
block. For easier access from the
cockpit, mount a toggle switch
inside the cabin near the compan-
ionway entrance. Connect wires
from the light to this switch, then
route wires to the panel and block.
Bed the stainless steel fasteners and
rubber gasket (included with most
lights) in marine sealant to give a
watertight fit.
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Thanks to Arild Jensen,
Tahireih, Lake
Simcoe
LINE
ORGANIZER
Most boats, especially sailboats, have the common
problem of finding easily accessible storage for all the
many lines on board. One easy solution converts a
cockpit locker into organized storage for lines and
sheets using cup hooks. Take large brass cup hooks
bedded with marine sealant and screw them into the
hull. Alternatively, you can glue a wood spacer to the
hull then attach the hooks. Space the hooks about
6.3cm (2-1/2") apart. Take a strip of 2.54cm-wide (1")
heavy duty leather (cowhide) and cut into 25.4cm (10")
lengths. Punch a small hole in each end and slide
the ends over the cup hooks, forming a loop. To
use, simply remove the top piece of leather, slide
it through the line and rehook. The lines lay flat
against the hull and use up minimal space. With
enough hooks you can stow spare jib sheets and
halyards, dock lines, reefing lines, emergency
gear such as safety harnesses and tethers, extra
block and tackle and any other paraphernalia.
CHAFING STRIP
FOR TENDERS
A tender requires some sort of chafing protection to keep
it from destroying your boat and protect it from damage
against docks. A rubber or plastic rubbing strip glued or
tacked on the gunwale will suffice, but a rope chafing
band is more traditional and "yachty." A tightly bound
rope surrounds the tender just below the gunwale. There
are two methods of securing the chafing band to the ten-
der depending on whether or not it carries an outboard
motor.
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
PROJECTS DIY
On dinghies without a motor, first
measure the hull around the gunwale
and add an extra .6m (2) for splic-
ing. Find the center of the rope and
secure it to the stem using a self-tap-
ping stainless steel screw. Pull each
line to the stern and draw tight.
Cushion any sharp edges and tran-
som corners with a scrap of canvas
or sailcloth placed under the rope.
Overlap both ends of the line,
pulling as tight as possible, then
mark where they join for splicing.
Back off the screw from the stem,
remove the line and splice the ends
together (Figure 1). If you want a
more continuous flow in the line to
the transom then you should long
splice them. I prefer the extra bulk of
a short splice that gives additional
chafing protection. Provided you
complete the same number of tucks
(splicing passes over and under)
each side, the rope band will still
look uniform. When you complete
the splice you will have a continuous
loop or bight to secure the band to
the tender.
Now refasten the midpoint to the
stem with the screw. With the help of
a partner, work the line to the stern
using a prybar to gently pop the line
over the transom. Don't forget the
chafing patches over the gunwale.
Use a rope fid to open the lay of the
rope, then drive a self-tapping stain-
less steel screw through the line
every foot along the length of the
hull. Bed all screws in a marine
polyurethane sealant. Opening the
lay embeds the screw head so it
doesn't stand proud and scratch
your yacht.
Tenders with an outboard
engine will need to keep the transom
free. After bending the line around
the stern you can either drill through
the transom or secure the bitter ends
of the line to the transom. In the later
case, you'll need to form a Flemish
coil or doily with the bitter ends
(Figure 2). Work the rope in a
circular fashion until it forms a flat
mat. To ensure the rope lays flat,
work right-hand twisted rope into a
clockwise circle and vise versa. Sew
the coils together with waxed thread
and a heavy duty needle, then
epoxy each to a 15cm (6") square
piece of clear Plexiglas. Fasten each
piece to the hull with a self-tapping
stainless steel screw bedded in
sealant. Mounting coils to the plastic
facilitates removal for cleaning or
painting.
Another method for mounting
the rope ends is to drill through the
transom, just inboard of the corners
at the gunwale. Pass the ends
through the hole then secure with a
figure eight knot. Whip (Figure 3)
or heat seal any exposed rope ends
with an electric hot knife, butane
lighter or torch. A variation on this is
to pass the rope ends through the
drilled holes (Figure 4). Form an
eye splice in one end, pass the other
end through the loop, draw the line
taut, then seize the bitter end to its
standing part.
Thanks to R. Bruce Macdonald,
Victoria, BC
Materials List
3-strand rope
1.58cm to 1.9cm
(5/8" or 3/4")
diameter
Tape measure
Canvas patches
Prybar
Fid
Self-tapping stainless
steel screws
Waxed thread and
canvas needles
Palm (optional)
Epoxy
Plexiglas
Marine polyurethane
sealant
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
PROJECTS DIY
Figure 2
For dinghies equipped with an out-
board engine, make a flemish coil with
the bitter ends, then glue each to
Plexiglas and screw to the transom.
Figure 4
To secure rope ends at the transom,
form an eye splice in one end, pass the
other end through the splice, draw
tight then whip the standing part.
Figure 1
A short splice expands the diameter of
the rope, providing better chafe pro-
tection. Tape rope ends, then unlay
the line about 13cm (5") from the end.
Join the ends so that one strand from
each line lies between two strands
from the other line. Temporarily tape
or tie the three strands on one side in
place. With one side secured, splice the
other three strands as you would for
an eye splice. Five or more tucks are
recommended. To finish, cut ends
leaving a 1.3cm (1/2") tail and fuse
with a match or butane lighter. Untie
the other side and splice as above. Roll
the splice on a flat surface to smooth
out. For a more uniform splice, taper
the strands with scissors after complet-
ing three tucks.
Figure 3
A sailmaker's whipping finishes the
rope ends.
Share a boat-tested project
with other DIY readers. If we
publish it, we'll send you $25
to $150 depending on the pub-
lished length.
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
PLUG INTO
AC ENERGY
An inverter lets
you add creature
comforts on board
with very few
drawbacks.
When you leave shore, there's no
need to leave the comforts and con-
veniences of landlubbers behind.
With an inverter and a beefed-up
direct current (DC) system you can
operate a hair dryer, power tools,
computer, use a toaster, coffee
maker, compact microwave, watch
TV, recharge your hand-held radio
battery or vacuum the cabin sole.
On boats without alternating current
(AC) system or shore power, an
inverter offers an economical way of
operating appliances off the battery.
On larger cruisers already equipped
with a generator, inverters supply
immediate AC power for operating
light loads without the need to start
up the generator.
The key components of any on-
board energy system are an inverter,
battery charger and bank of batter-
ies. An inverter converts battery-
stored DC power to 115- or 120-volt
AC energy. The battery charger
recharges the batteries from AC
power supplied by the engine alter-
nator, generator, solar panel or
shore power. Installing an inverter is
quite simple and easily accom-
plished in a few hours. Selecting the
proper inverter and upgrading your
DC system to handle the additional
power load is somewhat more com-
plicated.
Inverter Selection
Inverters are rated in watts accord-
ing to the continuous power they can
produce. Most units have higher
start-up (surge) capabilities that deliv-
er large amounts of power for short
periods of time. Inverters for on-
board use range from 100 to 2,500
watts (larger units are available but
not practical for pleasure boats). For
runabouts or small weekend cruisers,
an inexpensive, portable 150-watt
inverter that plugs into a 12-volt
receptacle is ideal for powering
lights, TV, fans, mixer or other small
appliances. To operate a microwave
or power tools, an inverter needs to
provide more than 600 watts.
Models are available with 12-,
24- or 32-volt DC input and a variety
of accessories and options. Most
inverters have a display on the front
panel showing the voltage status of
the DC system. Many manufacturers
offer optional remote panels that pro-
vide information on battery volts,
amps and AC input. Some units such
as Vanner Weldon's Bravo line,
Dimensions marketed by Arbrux and
the Heart Interface EMS and
Freedom series are self-charging.
These "smart" inverters have a built-
in, automatic three-stage battery
charger that senses when there is no
power consumption and goes into
idle mode, drawing minimal current
from the batteries. Turn on an AC
appliance and the inverter switches
into charge mode. Such units extend
the life of your batteries and elimi-
nate the cost of buying a separate
battery charger. Units not equipped
with charging systems monitor bat-
tery voltage and shut down if the
voltage goes too low or too high.
E
LECTRONICS
Figure 2
Typical installation with shore power, generator and self-charging inverter pow-
ering a single AC panel.
Auxiliary
battery
Alternator
Isolator
Engine
battery
Inverter/
Charger
Switch
Shore
power
Main AC
panel
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Alarms and LED indicators give
advance warning of overheating or
overloading. Larger inverters often
automatically transfer AC power
from the batteries to a generator or
shore power when available.
The inverter you choose must be
able to handle all the appliances you
plan to use. List the appliances that
would be running at the same time
and determine their continuous
power rating and surge requirements
in watts (see Figure 1). If you are
planning to use large powerful
motors with high surge load require-
ments, you may need a larger invert-
er than if you were running just lights
or small appliances. Total wattage
determines the maximum power out-
put of the inverter. Always select a
unit slightly larger than your maxi-
mum load requirement once you
become accustomed to using electri-
cal appliances on board, it's likely
you'll want to add more.
Buy the best unit you can afford
and one that meets your power
requirements and space limitations.
Cost for a basic unit averages $1
per watt. Options such as battery
charger, remote control, transfer
relay or 24-volt input substantially
increase the selling price.
ESTIMATING
BATTERY
POWER
After determining the power require-
ments of the AC appliances operat-
ed on board, you need to calculate
the available capacity of your boat's
battery bank (see Figure 1).
For an inverter to operate effi-
ciently, your boat must be equipped
with a good battery system and ade-
quate recharging capabilities.
Space, weight and budget limita-
tions determine the size, type and
number of batteries. The batteries
you use affect the performance you
can expect from your inverter. The
larger the battery capacity, the
longer the time between battery
recharges. Only use deep-cycle bat-
teries (never starting batteries) which
can withstand repeated cycles of
heavy discharge and recharge with-
out damage. Deep-cycle batteries
are rated in amp-hours. This rating is
usually relative to a 20-hour dis-
charge cycle. A 100 amp-hour bat-
tery, for example, will provide 5
amps for 20 hours (5 x 20 = 100). If
the rate of discharge is higher, the
battery will not deliver its full rating.
A DC system rated at 200 to 400
amp-hours provides adequate power
for a weekend of average use of a
microwave, lights, coffee pot, hair
dryer, TV and VCR. (See Figure 1 for
determining battery amp-hours.)
Depending on the unit, some
manufacturers recommend installing
a separate bank of wet or gel cell
deep-cycle batteries. To create a bat-
tery bank, batteries are linked using
E
LECTRONICS
Calculating
Battery
Requirements
To determine the total daily load
on a battery, take the power
usage including surge loads in
watts of all appliances, multiplied
by the hours of use between bat-
tery charges. If an appliance is
rated in amps, multiply volts by
amps to obtain watts. For exam-
ple, a 120-volt appliance rated at
10 amps requires 1,200 watts of
power. Convert the total watts to
amp/hours by dividing by the DC
system voltage (12, 24 or 32)
then add the values. Multiply
amp/hour value by 1.1 to 1.2
(depending on the inverter) to
determine the total battery drain.
Since the number of amp/hours
consumed by AC loads before
recharging the battery should be
no more than 50% of the battery's
rated capacity, you'll need about
288 amp/hours (or three 100-
amp batteries) to provide the AC
power in this example.
Appliance Total Hours of Total Amp/hours
W Rating Use Per Day Watts Use(12)
13" TV 80 2 160 13
Stereo 50 2 100 8
VCR 50 2 100 8
Blender 300 1/6 50 4
3/8" drill 500 1/12 42 3
Hand sander 500 1/12 42 3
Ice maker 200 1/6 33 3
Coffee maker 1000 1/6 167 14
Hair dryer 1500 1/6 250 21
Portable vacuum cleaner 1100 1/12 92 8
Compact microwave 750 1/4 187 15
Total amp/hours consumed = 100 (Sum of right column).
Multiply by 1.2 for inverter inefficiency = 120
Recharging requires 120 x 1.2 = 144 amp/hours
(Note: numbers rounded to nearest whole number.)
Figure 1
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
either parallel or series connections. When batteries are
connected in parallel, the voltage of the battery bank is
the same as that of each individual battery. When con-
nected in series, the total available voltage is equal to the
sum of the voltages of each battery.
To meet increased AC power demands, existing DC
systems on most boats are most likely insufficient. When
calculating the amp/hour drain on your batteries you
probably discovered that your boat's present battery is
too small. Operating AC appliances is limited by the
amount of DC power you can generate and the boat's
recharging capabilities. Increasing the size and number
of batteries will help. If the total battery drain between
recharges is 144 amp/hours, you will need a minimum
battery capacity of 288 amp/hours just to power the
inverter, without considering other everyday DC loads
(cabin lights, VHF radio, etc.). Sailboats that use the alter-
nator as the main source of charge to the batteries should
also consider adding a high-output alternator along with
a smart regulator to increase charging rates. Consult with
the engine manufacturer when upgrading these compo-
nents.
Installation
Inverters mount either vertically (bulkhead mount) or hori-
zontally (shelf mount) in a dry location away from water,
condensation and excessive heat. Do not install near
hatches or exhaust manifolds or in compartments contain-
ing batteries or flammable materials. Inverters run hot
and need plenty of "breathing" space to prevent over-
heating. A good rule of thumb is to allow enough room
to be able to reach around the unit on all sides. If housed
in an enclosed compartment, provide ventilation to allow
easy air flow. (Many units are thermally protected, how-
ever, and will shut down in excessively high tempera-
tures.)
Place the inverter within easy access to 115- or 120-
volt AC system wiring and input wiring from shore power
(if equipped). Proper wire and wiring are important to the
efficient operation of your inverter. Use only heavy insu-
lated, stranded copper wire (no aluminum) with crimped
and soldered lugs. Keep the total DC cable run to under
3m (10') to minimize line voltage loss. It's better to run
longer AC wires that are less expensive than DC cables.
Most units come with DC cables that connect to the
batteries or a battery switch. Before connecting the
cables, make sure the power switch on the unit is in the
"off" position. If you are using a battery selector switch
set it to the "off" position. Cables must be as short as pos-
sible and large enough to handle the required
current. The inverter's size and distance from the unit to
the batteries determines the correct wire gauge. Run
Figure 3
A switching device can be as simple as an AC plug
that plugs into the desired AC power source.
Inverter
Shore
power
or
generator
Junction
box
Outlets
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
cables from the battery posts to the
positive and negative input terminals
on the inverter. Most inverters are
not protected against reverse polari-
ty and permanent damage may
occur if improperly connected.
Tighten all cables to reduce exces-
sive voltage drop and prevent over-
heated wires and melted insulation.
It's recommended to install an in-
line fuse in the positive battery cable
to protect against DC wiring short
circuits. Install the fuse holder as
close to the battery as possible. Use
a slow-blow fuse with an amp rating
that's sized to allow operation of all
your DC-powered equipment. If the
battery posts are the terminus for the
starter motor, alternator and battery
selector switch, you will need to add
a negative and positive distribution
panel with a single heavy cable
leading to each battery post.
Separate battery bank from the
boat's starting battery with an isola-
tor. This device allows equipment to
be operated from an auxiliary bat-
tery without danger of discharging
the boat's starting battery. When the
engine is running, the battery isola-
tor automatically directs the charge
from the alternator to the battery
requiring the charge.
With smaller inverters, such as
Statpower's Prowatt series, appli-
ances plug directly into standard AC
receptacles on the unit. These units
are ideal for small boats with con-
fined spaces and minimal AC
demands such as powering a small
TV or computer. Larger inverters with
chargers are wired directly to the
boat's existing AC wiring or an AC
control panel. Before working on AC
wiring always disconnect DC power
from the inverter. Also, disconnect
any other AC power source such as
a generator or shore power. Electri-
cal shocks from AC power can be
fatal.
Modern AC wiring systems have
three conductors: hot (black wire),
neutral (white wire) and ground
(green or bare wire). Screws on ter-
minals are typically color-coded
brass for hot, silver for neutral and
green for ground. Use multi-strand,
marine-grade, tinned wire; house-
hold type, solid-core wire has no
place on a boat. It's important to
maintain correct wiring polarity, oth-
erwise you risk permanent damage
to the inverter. Do not install the
inverter to another AC power source
(generator, shore power) at the same
E
LECTRONICS
Figure 4
Installation with inverter and an automatic transfer switch.
Determining
Recharging
Times
To calculate the amount of time
you can use only one appliance
before it becomes necessary to
recharge the batteries, first
determine the wattage of the
appliance. For example, a 100-
watt TV attached to an inverter
powered by a 200 amp-hour,
12-volt battery bank will draw
about 10 amps whenever it is
on (divide the running wattage
by 10). Since batteries should
only be discharged about 50%,
the TV can run for 10 hours
before recharging is necessary
(assuming the batteries were
fully charged). The formula is:
1/2 the battery capacity of
200 amp-hours divided by 10
amps (current draw of the TV)
equals 10 hours. Use the same
method to calculate time before
recharging on 24-volt systems
except divide the wattage of
the appliance by 20. For 32-
volt systems, divide by 27.
Alternator
Battery
switch
Auxiliary
battery
Shore
power
Main
AC panel
Transfer
switch
Outlets
Inverter
Engine
battery
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
time, even when your inverter is
equipped with an AC sensing and
transfer function.
On boats equipped with other
AC power sources, you must install a
manual (Figure 3) or automatic
(Figure 4) switching device so that
only one power source connects to
the AC distribution panel at any time.
Available from many marine stores,
they are commonly used to transfer
between the generator and shore
power. Do not attempt your own AC
wiring unless you have the knowl-
edge and experience to do a safe
job. Follow the manufacturer's
instructions carefully. It's a good idea
to have an authorized electronics
dealer check the installation when
completed.
Lastly, ground the inverter to the
boat's grounding system. With the
installation completed, turn the bat-
tery selector switch (if using) to select
one of the batteries and switch on the
inverter. Check the meters and indi-
cators on the unit or optional remote
panel. Voltage should read 12 to 13
volts, depending on the battery volt-
age. Test the system by plugging in a
low power load, such as a 100-watt
lamp.
Operating tips
When operating an inverter, always
use appliances that are within the
unit's wattage handling capacity. If
the in-line fuse or circuit breaker
blows when you turn the appliance
on, the high start-up surge require-
ment exceeds the inverter's rating.
Never replace a blown fuse with one
of higher value. When operating sev-
eral appliances, turn each on sepa-
rately to reduce the start-up load on
the inverter. The output power of an
inverter is not exactly the same as
household power. Slight differences
may cause oddities: some appliances
with complex electronic controls may
buzz or not work at all under inverter
power. Microwaves take longer to
cook and dimmer switches won't
dim. Inverters sometimes interfere
with radio and TV reception and
may cause a hum on audio systems.
An inverter easily handles light
AC loads for extended periods or
intermittent heavier loads such as
cooking veggies in the microwave. If
you find you need to run your
engine all day just to recharge the
batteries, then use your generator.
Power-hungry appliances like air
conditioners and refrigerators are
best left to the gen sets. On installa-
tions that combine an inverter and
generator, save the latter for heavy
duty continuous loads that also pro-
vide power for a battery charger or
a self-charging inverter. At all other
times or when the main engine is
running, use the inverter to supply
AC power without the noise, vibra-
tion, fumes or maintenance costs
(gas, oil or spark plugs) of a
generator.
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
TOOLS
Hole saw or jigsaw
Assorted screwdrivers
Drill and assorted bits
Wrench or socket set
Wire cutter and stripper
Marine sealant
Tape measure
Straight edge
Masking tape
Plastic electrical hangers
TRIMMING FOR
MAXIMUM
PERFORMANCE
No matter what size or style of boat
you own 4.5m (15') runabout to
a 18m (60') cruiser, outboard, stern
drive or inboard a pair of
adjustable afterplanes or trim tabs
makes a noticeable difference in per-
formance. A boat equipped with trim
tabs planes faster and at slower
speeds. Trim tabs also correct listing,
regardless of weight distribution or
sea conditions. They improve the
running attitude of your boat,
reduce porpoising when
traveling at speed in
smooth water
and hull
pounding
when run-
ning in
rough
seas.
With the
simple flick of
a control switch
you can correct a
bow-high condition or
adjust hull trim when car-
rying additional passengers
and loads.
Trim tabs mount on the transom
and are driven by a hydraulic motor
and pump unit attached to the inside
of the transom that drives hydraulic
cylinders on each tab. Dual switches
at the helm control the up or down
positioning of each tab simultaneous-
ly or individually. As trim tabs are
driven into position by the cylinders,
water is deflected underneath the
tabs, creating an upward pressure
on the planes. This pressure raises
the stern and lowers the bow. This
reduces engine strain, pounding and
drag and increases visibility. Less
drag and engine laboring mean
increased performance, higher
speeds and increased fuel economy.
Lifting the stern decreases wake, pro-
viding a smoother and safer ride for
skiers and "bobbers." Trim tabs also
enhance propeller perfor-
mance. An untrimmed
prop often creates
slippage that
decreases
speed and performance. Adding
trim tabs allows the propeller to
deliver maximum thrust, propelling
the boat in a straightforward motion
through the water.
Selection
Bennett Marine, Boat Leveler (Insta-
Trim), Hynautics and Trim Master all
offer a variety of trim tabs to fit stern
drive, inboard or outboard single
and twin engine installations. Most
suppliers offer specialized tabs for
sport boats (running 40 mph to over
60 mph) and bass boats.
Made of stainless steel, trim tabs
come with 12-, 24- or 32-volt power
R
IGGING
POWERBOAT
As trim tabs are lowered, water is
deflected underneath, creating an
upward pressure that raises the stern
and lowers the bow.
T
R
IM
M
A
S
T
E
R
T
R
IM

M
A
S
T
E
R
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
kits. Boat Leveler tabs come with
easy-to-install color-coded wiring in
two lengths with quick connect fit-
tings and standard rocker-type con-
trols; an electronic tab locator is
optional. Trim Master tabs are sold
as complete sets or individual com-
ponents. If you're retrofitting an exist-
ing system, all Trim Master compo-
nents, including switches, power
units and cylinders, are adaptable to
existing electric or hydraulic trim tab
systems by other manufacturers.
Size selection varies based on
engine configuration and horsepow-
er, weight distribution, type of boat
and use. Many older cruisers have
tabs that are much too small and do
nothing more than correct for list.
Larger and/or slower boats require
larger trim tabs than smaller, faster
boats. Use the manufacturer's gener-
al sizing recommendations as a gen-
eral guide when purchasing trim
tabs. You should choose at least
2.54cm (1") of trim tab per size for
every 30.5cm (12") of boat. A 6.6m
(22') boat, for example, requires
61cm by 22.8cm (24" by 9") trim
tabs. Tab widths or chord length
(fore and aft measurement) are avail-
able in 20cm (8") to 30.5cm (12");
lengths are based on boat length.
(Custom sizes are available too.) For
heavy boats or boats with twin
engines and limited transom space,
the larger 30.5cm (12") chord is rec-
ommended.
"Trim tabs trim the hull
while power trim
on the outdrive adjusts
the prop."
B
O
A
T

L
E
V
E
L
E
R
Bow high or listing
TABS OFF
Corrected bow and list
TABS ON
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
a wiring harness reduce installation
time and facilitate routing wires from
the transom to the dashboard. Most
manufacturers supply a set of tem-
plates for accurate drilling of holes
along with complete step-by-step
instructions.
General mounting instructions
follow; however, you should careful-
ly follow instructions included with
your tabs as they vary between
brands. First, position tabs the rec-
ommended distance (check owner's
manual) from the chine and the cen-
terline. Tabs mount as low as possi-
ble (check manufacturer's specifica-
tions) on the transom without extend-
ing below the hull. Use a straight
edge placed under the center of the
trim tab and the hull bottom to set
tab height and trailing edge as spec-
ified in the installation instructions.
Curved transoms require adding
shims to give a level mounting sur-
face. Check that the upper mounting
of the hydraulic cylinder does not
interfere with any obstructions inside
the transom. (Dual cylinders are stan-
dard on larger tabs.) If the transom
is inaccessible due to the fuel tank or
flotation, or if there is inadequate
room inside the transom to connect
the hydraulic lines, contact the
manufacturer.
Carefully measure the location
of the trim tabs on the transom.
Before drilling, ventilate the bilge
and make sure it is free of gas fumes
to prevent an untimely explosion.
Drill pilot holes and dry fit the tabs.
Drill the correct size hole, apply
marine epoxy or sealant around all
holes and coat screws, then fasten
tabs to transom. Position the upper
mount of the hydraulic cylinder on
the transom. Drill small pilot holes,
check the fit, then fasten the cylinder
mount.
Next mount the hydraulic power
unit on a bulkhead in a dry location
(these units don't like to get wet). Run
lines, cut to length and connect fit-
tings. Using a hole saw (or jig saw)
cut a hole in
the dashboard
for the switch.
When wiring is
complete, move
each tab switch
and check
operation of
both tabs.
Work tabs in the full down and up
position two or three times to purge
the cylinders and lines of all air.
Place tabs in full down position and
check for leaks. Support the wiring
harness and hydraulic tubing with
plastic hangers. A spacing of less
than 45.7cm (18") apart is recom-
mended.
Trim tab maintenance includes
regular checks of fluid levels and
wires for loose or corroded connec-
tions. Manufacturers recommend
applying an epoxy metal primer fol-
lowed by two coats of antifouling
paint to the tabs and cylinders to dis-
courage marine growth. Saltwater
users may need to attach a zinc
anode to the top of each trim tab to
deter electrolysis. (Boat Leveler
Before buying, double-check the
size by measuring the transom.
Measure in a straight line along the
bottom, disregarding the strakes. The
outboard edge of the trim tab is
installed 7.6cm to 10cm (3" to 4")
from the chine. For boats with single
stern drive or outboard engine, the
trim tab length should extend to a
minimum of 20.3cm (8") from the
centerline. Boats with twins measure
the length to the center of each lower
unit. On inboard-powered boats, the
inboard edge of the trim tab extends
to the centerline of the transom.
Select the longest tab available to
ensure maximum efficiency.
Prices start at CDN $665/
US$450 for a complete system that
fits 4.5m to 6m (15' to 20') boats up
to CDN
$1,150/
US$795 for a
65-footer.
(Low-priced,
non-adjustable
models are
available but
are much less
effective.) Helm controls range from
standard toggle or rocker-type
switches to more expensive optional
electronic controls with LCD and LED
readouts that add $200 or more to
the price tag. Warranties range from
one year to lifetime (Trim Master)
depending on the brand.
Installation
Trim tabs are packaged with power
units, hydraulic cylinders and lines,
brackets, switches, mounting hard-
ware and all wiring. Trim Master
also includes a bottle of biodegrad-
able hydraulic fluid with every set.
Installation requires a few standard
tools and three to four hours of
labor. Pre-wired units packaged with
R
IGGING
POWERBOAT
Port tab lowers
Port stern rises
Starboard bow
lowers
Trim tabs operate in reverse order.
Starboard tab
lowers
Starboard stern
rises
Port bow lowers
B
E
N
N
E
T
T

M
A
R
I
N
E
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
brand tabs are guaranteed against
electrolysis.)
On The Water
Relaunch your boat and conduct
sea trials on flat water with the
boat lightly loaded. Slowly push
down the throttle and move both
tab switches in the "Bow Down"
position. When learning how to
use trim tabs, operate the switches
in short, half-second bursts, allow-
ing time for the boat to respond to
tab adjustments to avoid overtrim-
ming. When overtrimmed the bow
plows, reducing manoeuverability.
If overtrimming occurs as the boat gains speed, retract
the tabs by pressing "Bow Up."
Running at speed, set the throttle at cruising speed
and adjust the tabs to obtain the boat's best running atti-
tude. In an untrimmed condition, the bow spray is far
aft on the hull, the stern wake is high and there's a
roostertail. When trimmed, the bow spray is further for-
ward, the wake is diminished, the roostertail is smaller
and farther behind the boat. Laboring of the engine is
also reduced and rpms increase without touching the
throttle. Be careful not to overtrim at higher speeds as
the bow will lower quickly and "dig in," causing the
boat to veer sharply. Never move one tab significantly
farther down than the other while underway or an unde-
sirable listing may occur. Once the hull is properly
trimmed, observe the bow in relation to the horizon and
note the helm settings. Under normal operating condi-
tions use the same tab settings to reproduce the same
ideal attitude. For engines equipped with power trim,
position the propeller parallel to the waterflow, then
fine-tune with the trim tabs if necessary. You can adjust
tabs separately to align the bow to the proper attitude
but never simultaneously activate one tab up and the
other tab down.
To correct a listing condition resulting from wind,
propeller torque or unequal distribution of passengers
or gear, adjust each trim tab independently. Trim the
boat fore and aft before correcting for list. If the port
bow is high, push the left-side switch on the helm control
in the "Bow Down" direction and the port bow lowers.
Watch the boat's attitude to the water and do not over-
trim. To lower the starboard bow, push the right-side
control in the "Bow Down" direction.
When running in choppy or heavy seas, press
"Bow Down" and the bow will cut through the waves,
offering a drier, more comfortable ride. In a following
sea, place tabs all the way up for maximum rudder con-
trol. To correct porpoising, press "Bow Down" in half-
second bursts. Only a slight amount of trim tab deflec-
tion should diminish this condition.
Whether you use your boat for fishing, performance
boating or cruising, adding a pair of trim tabs will
increase your boat's performance and provide a safe,
comfortable and economical ride.
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
R
IGGING
SAILBOAT
MAINSAIL
CONTROL
If you sail shorthanded, lazy jacks
help to control and harness the main-
sail when dousing or reefing just
release the halyard and the sail
flakes on top of the boom. Fully
adjustable, they also double as a
backup topping lift when needed.
Pre-packaged kits are avail-
able but you can easily make
your own. All you need is .6cm
(1/4") diameter line of the
required length, eyestraps, swiv-
el blocks or rings
(both optional),
two cleats and
two or three
fairleads.
Leading
down from
two
blocks or
eye-
straps
on
either
side of
the mast
are two control lines.
Intersecting each line are two or
three lines that wrap under the boom
to form a cradle. These joining lines
are tied directly to the control lines
or fastened to small stainless steel
rings or swivel blocks. The "jacks"
are double-ended, passing through
fairleads mounted on the underside
of the boom, then attached to the
control line on the opposite side. The
bitter end fastens to a cleat mounted
on the boom. Alternatively, you can
run the two control lines down either
side of the mast to a cleat(s) at the
gooseneck or mast step.
When hoisting, let off the
lazy jacks and once the main is set,
take up the excess line leaving a bit
of slack. Watch carefully that the
mainsail
battens
clear
the lazy
jacks.
Keeping the boat
head to weather will help. To douse,
release the mainsheet, take up the
topping lift and tighten the lazy
jacks.
Lazy jacks have a tendency to
chafe mainsail seams. Slackening
them when underway, especially
when sailing off the wind, will
reduce chafe.
REMOVABLE
INNER
FORESTAY
Boats equipped with furling systems
often compromise sail shape and
performance for convenience when
using the system for reefing.
Manufacturers suggest furling a
large genoa to at least 60% of its
total area. This means that a 135%
reefs to a 90% jib. But when you furl
even the best-cut sail, you end up
with a fuller shape with little control
over luff and sheet tension. A better
solution is to install a removable
inner forestay. Working or storm jibs
are hanked on this stay when need-
ed. When not required, it stows
neatly out of the way.
Installation requires a length of
stainless steel wire, two terminal
ends, mast fitting, swivel block and
extra halyard, two fiddle blocks and
line, heavy duty deck padeye and
backing plate plus additional rein-
forcing as necessary (see below).
Have a metal fabricator fashion
a stainless steel mast fitting, bent to
the shape of your mast, with holes
for attaching the halyard block and
stay. A wide base fitting will evenly
distribute the loads around the mast.
It may look bulky, but it works better
than a hook-in T terminal fitted into a
backing plate that may stress the
wire if not perfectly aligned. To
equalize the increased loading on
the mast, install the inner stay just
below the upper shrouds on mast-
head rigs or at the same height as
the running backstays. If it's located
well below the masthead, you may
need to add running backstays to
counteract the load. The stay should
run as parallel as possible to the
forestay: the distance off at the mast
measured between the two stays
should be equal at deck level. This is
not always possible; more often, the
stay mounts .6m (2') below the mast-
head and .9m (30") from the fore-
stay on deck. Measure and cut the
stay, remembering to subtract the
length of the terminal fittings and
lower block and tackle, allowing a
.8m (32") span between blocks. The
lower block on the four-part tackle
needs a snap shackle that fastens
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
to the deck padeye. When not in use, the inner stay
should stow neatly against the base of the mast or clips
on the rail. You'll have to experiment to get the stay
length just right. The lower block is also fitted with a cam
cleat or you can run the standing end aft to a cleat near
the cockpit. Terminate the ends of the rigging wire with
swage fittings (requires services of a professional rigger)
or bolt-on Norseman or Sta-Lok terminals that are easily
assembled by hand.
Attach the block and tackle to the stay, draw it down to
the deck and determine where to mount the heavy duty
padeye. The inner stay puts tremendous force on fiber-
glass decks that may lift if not properly reinforced.
Strengthen decks with a stainless steel or aluminum
backing plate mounted directly underneath the padeye.
If the deck still lifts when under load, you'll need to
assemble a tie rod or wire that attaches to a padeye
mounted to a block glassed to the hull.
To use, furl the genoa, hank the jib on to the
stay. Run jib sheets through lead blocks that are posi-
tioned farther forward to obtain the correct foot and
leech tension. You may have to recut
your jib to fit the new stay. Don't
be too concerned about the
raised clew a higher foot
improves visibility and
keeps the sail out of the
water when heeling.
R
IGGING
SAILBOAT
PRIOR PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628

For boaters who are

landlubbers in the
winter, here's a
step-by-step guide to
preparing your boat
for hibernation.
When the season draws to a close
for many boaters in the northern
climes, an annual rite of passage
commences with the weekend (or
two) ritual of preparing your boat for
winter storage. Investing some time
and effort now will make next year's
launch a lot easier.
Before you haul out, check boat
covers and frames, mast supports,
cradle or trailer, and lubricate and
repair as necessary. Pour fuel addi-
tives into tanks before your last trip
so the conditioned fuel runs through
lines and filters. Additives prevent
and remove gum and varnish
deposits, remove moisture in fuel sys-
tems and prevent carburetor icing
and fuel line freezing. The following
information is provided as a basic
guide to end-of-season maintenance.
Different mechanical systems have
their own quirks, so read your own-
er's manuals for specific instructions.
EXTERIOR
Pressure wash bottom, Imme-
diately after hauling out, check the
hull for gelcoat blistering (see page
7). Also check for zebra mussels. If
you find some, check water intakes
on the engine, head and sink. Use
an acid-based cleaner to remove
heavy buildup of algae and scum
from unpainted hulls. Wear protec-
tive clothing when working with such
solutions.
Protect gelcoat or painted hulls
with marine wax or polish. Buff the
wax now because some waxes
harden if left on and require much
labor to remove.
Remove fenders (PVC lasts longer
if stored indoors) and clean them.
Check docklines for wear and
replace as needed. Remove all
antennas. Clean vinyl seat cushions
and treat with light coat of vinyl pro-
tectant to prevent drying and crack-
ing.
Inspect brightwork and repair any
damage, applying at least two coats
of varnish or oil to protect wood
from winter's dryness.
If you store your boat outside,
keep your boat clean and dry with a
snug-fitting canvas cover, polyethyl-
ene tarp or shrink wrap. Covers must
have adequate ventilation and a
means of access. If "tenting" your
boat with a tarp, leave a .6m (2')
opening at the bow and stern.
INTERIOR
Clean the boat inside and out with
plenty of fresh water and a
biodegradable cleaner, rinsing
away all sand and grit.
Remove the hull drain plug (if
equipped) or pump out bilge water.
Allow the boat to dry thoroughly.
Pour non-toxic antifreeze into the
bilge and pump some through the
bilge pump.
Winterize air conditioner and
refrigeration systems.
Remove all items that may rust, rot
or freeze plus all personal gear and
any loose equipment such as life
jackets, cushions, bedding, canvas
tops, curtains, dock lines, charts or
books that may absorb moisture and
mildew while in storage.
Remove all foodstuffs and clean
the icebox or refrigerator with bak-
ing soda and water. Clean appli-
ances. Empty kettle.
To guard against mildew, wash
interior cabinets, countertops, bunk
tops and lockers with a 50 to 50 mix
of vinegar and water.
Slightly open lockers, hatches and
floorboards to increase ventilation,
reduce condensation and hopefully,
guard against mildew.
Check fire extinguishers and
recharge if needed. Weigh Halon
extinguishers to check charge.
Wint
Wint
er
er
LAY-UP
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628

Wint
Wint
er
er
ELECTRICAL
Remove all portable electronics.
It's not necessary to remove fixed
electronics but storing them indoors
in a dry location will prolong their
life and they won't be stolen.
Remove dry cell batteries
from flashlights, radios etc.
BATTERY
STORAGE
Disconnect and clean battery ter-
minals and casing. Check that elec-
trolyte levels are 1.2cm (1/2")
above top of separators. Fully
charge battery and store in a cool,
dry location. A battery can be left on
the boat without risk of freezing, pro-
vided it is at least three-quarters
charged. If stored on board, check
the charge every 30 days.
PLUMBING
Clean freshwater tanks with bak-
ing soda and water. Let dry and
leave open inspection ports to
reduce moisture buildup. Pump non-
toxic antifreeze through the system
until it exits at the sink to prevent
freezing.
Drain all sumps and pumps and
pour antifreeze down sink and
shower drains.
Descale and clean head and hold-
ing tank with Head-O-Matic Shock
Treat or other similar product. Pump
out the tank, add the recommended
solution, fill with fresh water and let
cure for 15 or so minutes then
empty. Add a lubricant (Sea Lube,
Head Lube or other) to the head to
lubricate O-rings, pump shaft, pis-
tons and valves and prevent corro-
sion. Winterize the head by flushing
a small amount of non-toxic plumb-
ing antifreeze through the system.
Check aluminum holding tanks for
corrosion. Fluids seep under the
welds inside the tank, causing pitting
and in time will rust through. Any
tank that's eight years or older
should be inspected thoroughly.
Open all seacocks. Removing
hoses from seacocks is a good way
to ventilate the cabin when under
cover. Lastly, pour a small amount of
antifreeze down cockpit drains.
ENGINES
Outboards & I/Os
Before winterizing your engine, read
the owner's manual and carefully fol-
low the instructions.
Attach a flushing device and run
the engine long enough to com-
pletely flush the engine's cooling sys-
tem.
Spray a recommended fogging oil
through the carburetor intake while
engine is running.
Drain the cooling system on stern-
drive-powered rigs.
Remove the air cleaner and spray
an anti-corrosion protectant onto the
carburetor and any other metal parts
to prevent rusting.
Remove filling and vent plugs from
the lower unit and fill to the specified
level with the recommended gear
case lubricant.
Lubricate all grease fittings,
inspect zinc anodes, including the
one located inside the exhaust pas-
sage, for corrosion.
Touch up any scratches or bare
spots on the lower unit or drive leg
LAY-UP
CONTROL
MILDEW
Mildew forms when the air
outside is cooler than the air
inside. This creates condensa-
tion and the resulting damp-
ness produces mold spores
that feast on damp surfaces.
To control mildew you need to
eliminate or reduce condensa-
tion and moisture. This is
impractical in the winter, con-
sidering that your boat,
wrapped under a tarp, bak-
ing under the hot sun, pro-
vides the ideal environment
for mildew. To help prevent
mildew growth, invest in a
$20 dehumidifier. It comes
with crystals that remove mois-
ture from cabin air and keep
the boat dry.
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Clean the outboard cowling and
lower unit of the outboard or stern
drive and apply a light coat of wax.
Examine the engine for worn
wiring or electrical connections,
loose components or brittle fuel
hoses.
Inspect and clean fuel line screens
and replace all fuel filters. Lubricate
to the O-ring on base of filter before
installing.
Change engine and drive oil and
top off power trim and steering fluid
reservoirs (if equipped).
Add the recommended amount of
fuel stabilizer to the gas tank.
Clean and lightly spray a mois-
ture-displacing lubricant or Engine
Protector over all external metal parts
to prevent corrosion.
Remove the prop and check for
bent blades, damaged hubs or nicks
along leading and trailing edges.
Minor nicks are easily filed; major
damage requires the services of a
prop specialist. Remove any fishing
line from the
prop shaft, grease the shaft and
replace the prop. Make sure the lock
nut is on tight and the cotter pin inter-
locks the nut crown.
ENGINES
Diesel Inboards
Top up fuel tanks to eliminate con-
densation.
Change oil and fuel filters.
Open water intake seacock (if
closed) and drain cock on the
engine to remove water, then close.
Remove hose from the water intake
and place in a bucket containing a
50 to 50 mix of non-toxic antifreeze
and water. With engine in neutral,
start the motor and run until anti-
freeze exits at the exhaust thru-hull.
Stop the engine and open the drain
cock.
Remove the water filter and clean.
Drain the fuel/water separator.
Continued on page 35
37
Carefully remove the
impeller, rinse well
and store in a sealed
bag.
V
O
L
V
O

P
E
N
T
A
Put a block of
wood between
the prop and the
ventilation plate to prevent
rotation as you loosen the prop
lock nut. A prop wrench simpli-
fies this job.
T
I
P
S
Get the oil
up to engine
temperature
(71 C/160 F) and it
drains faster. Run the engine
to circulate the new oil.
T
I
P
S
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Propane
System Safety
By Robert Houston
Liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) or
propane is a source of on-board cook-
ing and heating that is clean, inexpen-
sive, readily available, easy to trans-
port and lights easily. But there are also
hazards associated with the use of
propane. It's invisible, highly explosive,
heavier than air and hard to remove
from a boat's bilge. These hazards can
be reduced to near zero by installing
your system correctly, inspecting, test-
ing at regular intervals and replacing
defective components immediately.
The National Fire Protection Assoc-
iation Standards for Propane (NFPA
302-6.5) provides guidelines in great
detail on required codes and standards
for equipment and installation.
Summarized, the key points are:
Use only approved materials.
Use only approved marine
appliances.
Protect piping and hose from abuse
and abrasion.
Piping must be visible for
inspection.
Provide a leak test arrangement.
In addition to the above, the entire sys-
tem must be installed and tested per
applicable codes and regulations. (The
price of a qualified professional for
installation is a sound investment.) Like
any powerful tool, treat propane with
respect. Convenient and clean, this
high-energy fuel can be safely used by
boaters who understand and handle it
with proper caution.
Follow these guidelines below to
test and check the individual compo-
nents of a safe propane system every
time it is used and prior to winter lay-
up. (Note: If your system has just been
installed pressure test with air to prove
all connections.) These instructions
assume your system is fitted with a pres-
sure gauge. A should-have option, it
mounts on the high pressure side of the
regulator. Inexpensive, a gauge read-
ing 0 to 300 psi costs about $22.
Daily Use
Prior to starting your system, test it. If
your system is installed correctly this test
will prove the regulator, supply hose
and tube and valve at appliance (see
Figure 1).
1. Make sure the valve at the appli-
ance is closed and connections are
tight.
2. Open tank locker and check fittings
at tank.
3. Open tank valve until tank pressure
registers on pressure gauge.
4. Close tank valve and monitor pres-
sure. If it drops, vent cabin space and
check connections using soapy water
(do not use soap with ammonia) or a
leak detector and repair leak before
using system.
5. Never use open flame to check for
leaks.
6. If there's no drop in pressure, sys-
tem is okay to use.
7. Open tank valve and continue with
intended use.
8. Close and latch tank locker.
9. Always close tank valve when not
using system or boat is unattended.
Winter Lay-up
As there are many system set-up configu-
rations, here are some general guide-
lines for preparing your propane system
for the winter. If your boat is laid-up in
the water (such as on the West Coast)
and will be unattended for long periods
of time, close the tank valve and discon-
nect the regulator. If tank is left on
board, always check for gas leaks
before starting any electrical appliances.
1. Clean your burners (per manufac-
turers guidelines) then coat them lightly
with cooking oil to prevent corrosion.
2. Cover burners and venturi openings
with aluminum foil to prevent small
insects (spiders) from entering small
openings during storage. Remove alu-
minum foil before using.
3. Disconnect propane tank from sup-
ply line and install protective plug in
tank opening.
4. Cover threaded portion of regulator
to protect thread and prevent dirt or
insects from getting into openings.
5. Visually check safety blow-off valve
on tank for dirt or other restrictive mater-
ial that may impede the operation of the
valve.
6. Thoroughly check surface of hose for
wear, cracks or hardening.
7. Cover brass fittings with a light coat
of cooking oil or Vaseline to prevent
corrosion.
8. Inspect tank surface, especially
bottom for excessive rust and, if exces-
sive, have the tank inspected by your
local propane dealer.
9. If you do not have an approved
locker on board that has flow-through
venting, store your tank ashore in a pro-
tected, well-ventilated area.
Robert Houston is president of Pro Pal
Manufacturing, Victoria, BC.
Series 140 "T" 90 Regulator
"T"
Solinoid
Short "Pol"
Tank Valve
Pressure Gage
Supply
Figure 1: Typical pressure gauge instal-
lation for propane systems.
R
O
B
E
R
T

H
O
U
S
T
O
N
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
sure on the bottom of the boat.
Touch up rust spots on the trailer.
MASTS
First and foremost unstep your mast.
Leaving it up subjects the deck, hull
and rigging to considerable stress
that over time (four to five winters)
causes web-like cracks and crazing
in gelcoat. Remove spreaders, mast-
head instruments and antennae. Run
a soft cloth along shrouds to check
for snags. Wash running rigging
and furling gear (if equipped).
Never store a painted mast wrapped
in plastic. While it protects it from
dirt and rain, Danny Klacko of
Klacko Spars says
the heat from the
sun blisters the
paint off faster
than any chemi-
cal stripper.
SAILS
Lay sails out on a
flat, clean surface
and check all
seams, batten
pockets, luff tape,
slugs or slides for
chafe and wear.
To remove salt
and surface dirt,
hose your sails off
with fresh water and dry thoroughly.
Fold and store sails off the boat in a
warm, dry locker. Inspect mainsail
and jib covers for tears and chafe
and repair as necessary.
d
W i n t
W i n t
e r
e r
LAY-UP
Slacken all belts.
Remove the water pump impeller,
inspect, bag and place where you
can easily find it next year (try tap-
ing to the engine).
Grease ends of throttle, gear and
stop cables. Spray all moving parts
(cables, linkages, winches, etc.) with
a Teflon-based lubricant.
Close or plug thru-hulls to prevent
air and moisture from entering.
Inspect the propeller and send in
for repair if necessary.
TRAILERABLES
Check that the boat is resting equally
on all bunks or rollers to prevent
unwanted hooks or hollows caused
by improper storage. To reduce the
load on the tires and trailer suspen-
sion, jack up the trailer until tires
clear the ground, then support the
frame with jack stands placed on
either side of the wheel axle. Loosen
trailer tie-down straps to ease pres-
TO DO LIST
Make a list of all the items that
need to be repaired, cleaned
or replaced so you won't for-
get in the spring.
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
Bags or jugs filled with water or sand hold covers secure
during lay-up.
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE
CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628