Features

Trailering
Guide to maintaining, servicing and customizing
your trailer includes pre-season maintenance,
repacking wheel bearings, installing bearing
protectors, troubleshooting hydraulic brakes plus
some nice-to-have accessories.
Cast-Off
Anchoring signals.
Brightwork
The fine art of varnishing.
DIY Projects
End Mildew, Install a Solar Vent; Fender Boards,
Automatic Head Feeder; Chafe Protection
Engine
Troubleshooting
Aligning the Prop Shaft; Diesel Valve Kit; Drip-proof
Stuffing Box; Troubleshooting Outboards.
Electronics
Help for Ni-cad batteries; Replacing Round
Instruments; Getting a Fix on Electronic Repairs;
Automatic Co-pilot for Powerboats.
Tuning the
Masthead Rig
The complete step-by-step guide to mast tuning.
Powerboat Rigging
Improve handling, acceleration and planing with a
hydrofoil.
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DIY
SUMMER 1995
INSIDE
Mounting Deck
Hardware
Techniques for bedding and bonding fittings.
Keeping up
the Teak
Protect your teak with an oil or varnish finish.
Departments
TalkBack
DIY boat owner's Information Exchange
TechTips
Boat-tested tips.
Refer to DIY 1999 #2 for
step-by-step Teak cleaning
and refinishing.
HOME
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
T
ALKBACK
Spare parts for Atomics
Do you know where to shop for a new or rebuilt ignition
and alternator for an Atomic 4?
Rodger White, Vancouver, British Columbia
Westerbeke Corp. has marine distributors across North
America that carry a full line of replacement parts for
Atomic 4 and Atomic Stevedore engines. Contact the
company's customer service for a listing of marine distrib-
utors at: Avon Industrial Park, Avon, MA 02322; Tel:
(508) 588-7700, fax: (508) 559-9323. You can also try
your local auto parts store. The Atomic 4 uses GM igni-
tion and charging systems and, apparently, the alternator
is a commonly stocked part.
Now that we're on the matter of spare parts, we did some
digging and came up with sources for some non-current
boat lines. We'll keep looking but here's a few to start:
Tanzer
If you are one of the 8,000 Tanzer owners in North
America, chances are you may need a source for
replacement parts. Eric Spencer of Yachting Services has
Mail
Many thanks for all your letters. We love
getting mail, either by post or E-mail.
Compliments, criticisms or complaints are
all equally received.
The following is a sample of what our readers had to say
about the premier issue:
Congratulations! I love my DIY boat owner! I was brows-
ing through The Store today and discovered your new
magazine. It's just what I've been looking for and to think
that it's totally Canadian, eh!
Oren Cole, Colewave, Richmond Hill, Ont.
I am really pleased with the first edition of DIY boat owner
to the point where I'am already looking forward to the
next issue. It is high time that such a publication oriented to
the everyday boat owner reached the market. Keep up the
good work.
Marcel Simard, HMCS Okanagan, Halifax, NS.
Congratulations! Your premier edition was an instant suc-
cess in our home. The articles are informative, easy to
read and understand and are designed for all boaters.
We have passed your address around our Power & Sail
Squadron. DIY was a big hit there as well.
Debbie Armstrong, Elliot Lake, Ont.
DIY INFORMATION
EXCHANGE
Working with Plexiglas
I'm planning to make some Plexiglas shelves for my boat.
Any tips for working with this stuff?
David Smith, Toronto, Ontario
Plexiglas cuts easily with power tools but hand tools, such
as a hacksaw or coping saw do a better job, although
they take a little longer. Leave the paper backing in place
to prevent scratching the finish until you complete all cut-
ting and drilling. If the paper was removed, cover the
work area with paper and hold in place with masking
tape. When using a jigsaw, a fine-tooth blade works best.
Always cut or drill at a slow speed. If you go too fast, the
blade or bit heats up and melts the plastic, leaving a
rough edge; use a bastard file to remove the melted
acrylic and saw marks. To avoid cracking around the fas-
teners, drill the screw holes about .8 mm (1/32") larger.
DIY ONLINE
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troubleshooting information
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It's FREE!
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
When French boatbuilder
Jeanneau S.A. acquired powerboat
manufacturer Cadorette Marine last
fall, it was rumored that the compa-
ny would build Jeanneau sailboats
for North America. According to
Kevin Zdebiak, director of sales and
marketing for Jeanneau Canada,
the first of five Jeanneau models will
debut at the Newport boat show in
September. The company plans to
build 165 boats this year, beginning
with the 28 and 34, then add a 24,
37 and 45. Marketing is handled by
the existing Jeanneau sales office,
located in New London,
Connecticut.
Erratum
You need to make the following cor-
rections in the Spring Issue. In
Spring Fitting Out, on page 8
under the heading "Stoves," please
note that when testing a propane
system for leaks, never use a soap
that contains ammonia because it
deteriorates brass fittings and may
cause them to crack. If you're unfa-
miliar with a soap's makeup, use a
commercial leak detector solution.
In Dockside on page 41, Viking
Marine's Cat Bags are distributed
in Canada by Intermann Marine
Marketing. The company has two
locations: #29-1435 Bonhill Rd.,
Mississauga, ON L5T 1V2; Tel:
(905) 670-1177, Fax: (905) 670-
7622 and 1660 Powell St.,
Vancouver, BC V5L 1H4; Tel: (604)
253-4125, Fax: (604) 253-7679.
a complete inventory of Tanzer
parts for boats built from 1965 to
1986. Spencer was founder and
former president of Tanzer, so he's
well acquainted with the line. He
can be reached at: Yachting
Services, Box 1045, Pointe-Claire,
PQ H9S 4H9; Tel: (514) 697-
6952, Fax: (514) 695-5912. The
company also maintains a duty free
warehouse in Champlain, New
York for U.S. customers.
Thundercraft and Doral
Richard Grenier at Jeanneau
Canada (formerly Cadorette
Marine) informs us that the compa-
ny has a few good sources of
replacement parts for Thundercraft
boats built prior to 1989. As for
Doral, there's not much left from pre-
1992 models. Contact Grenier at
Jeanneau Canada, Box 727,
Grand-Mere, PQ G9T 5L4; Tel:
(819) 538-0781, Fax: (819) 538-
6330.
CS
Holland Marine Products has a vast
collection of parts for CS sailboats,
from the CS 22 to the 44. Items are
not yet cataloged, so you'll need to
provide complete specs with your
inquiry. Send information to: 3008
Dundas St. W., Toronto, ON M6P
1Z3; Tel: (416) 762-3821, fax:
(416) 762-4458.
C&C
The Store in Mississauga, Ontario
has an assortment of deck castings,
bow tanks, foot blocks and innumer-
able other odds and sods for C&C
sailboats. They don't have an inven-
tory listing, so send the exact part
dimension to: 1 Port St. E.,
Mississauga, ON L5G 4N1; Tel:
(905) 278-7005, fax: (905) 278-
5758.
FOR THE RECORD
Bombardier Inc., builders of Sea-
Doo watercraft, purchased two
powerboat builders in April. The
companies are AMT Marine in
Antoine-de-Tilley, Quebec, builders
of all Sea-Doo hulls since they were
first introduced in 1992, and power-
boat manufacturer, Celebrity Boats
of Benton, Illinois. The move more
than doubles production of Sea-
Doos.
TECHNICAL HELPLINE
Unable to find information on products or do-it-your-
self projects?
TECHNICAL HELPLINE is a special reader service that makes available
to you the resources of marine industry experts on topics such as boat
repair, engines, trailers, electricity, plumbing, electronics, sails, mainte-
nance and more!
The cost is FREE to DIY subscribers!
Send your questions today to:
TalkBack, DIY Boat Owner
P.O. Box 22473
Alexandria, VA 22304
Or go to www.diy-boat.com
Include your name, boat name and home port.
NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
T
ECH TIPS
&
FUME ALERT: If you have a propane leak that you can
smell but can't find, pour a cup of water over the tank
valve. Now, look for water droplets in the system. The
water follows the gas flow and exits at the leak.
DRAWING CARD: Don't stand near your compass
with a knife, keys or other metal objects in your pocket.
The tin in the metal positions the boat either farther east
or west of your intended course.
KEEP FILTERS DRY: Store diesel fuel filters and other
filters with paper elements in waterproof containers or
sealed plastic bags placed in a dry locker. The original
packaging is no match for bilge water and wet filters will
stop the engine dead in the water.
WASHER FIX: In quick need of a washer? Save the
plastic caps from large soft drink bottles. When you
need a washer, cut to size with an Exacto knife and drill
a hole for the fastener. Plastic is a neutral substance and
acts as an isolator preventing galvanic action between
dissimilar metals (stainless screws on an aluminum mast,
for example).
REDUCE EYESTRAIN: Use black nylon or wool telltales
on sails. They are more highly visible than the standard
orange or red ones.
SNAP-FREE: When snap fasteners won't hold its most
likely because of corrosion. Clean both studs and buttons
with bronze wool or a 3M Scotch-Brite pad. Let dry and
spray with a moisture-displacing lubricant. Lightly pry
and wiggle the button spring with an awl or small slot
screwdriver for complete saturation of the lubricant.
STAINLESS THAT GLOWS: To remove salt encrusted
on stainless steel rails and cleats, mix a solution of alco-
hol and kerosene and rub on with a soft rag. Refrain from
smoking while doing this one.
MORE CAULKING SENSE: In the Spring Issue we told
you about using a screw or common nail to prevent caulk-
ing cartridges from hardening after use. Well, here's
another clever method: thread a cone-shaped, spring-
loaded wire connector, such as a Marrette plug, over the
nozzle end. Use duct tape to hold it in place, just in case.
NO MORE SQUEAKS: Are squeaking blocks, goose-
necks (boom to mast attachment) or whatever keeping
you awake at night? Spray a liberal amount of a mois-
ture-displacing lubricant on any fitting where metal rubs
against metal. Pleasant dreams.
BAND-AID ANTENNA: A VHF radio is often your only
communication with the outside. In case your whip anten-
na should break or fail, you should stow a mini antenna
in your emergency kit. It measures about a foot in length
and screws into the back of the radio. Cost is about $45.
Another model comes with a suction cup base and a
short length of cable, so you can mount it on top of the
cabin.
CHART WATERPROOFING: Preserve your charts with
Thompson's Water Seal (yes, the same stuff for water-
proofing decks). Apply a generous coating to both sides
with a foam brush. Hang on clothes line to dry.
Apparently the colors won't run and it doesn't distort the
chart before it dries. Do a test on an older chart first, just
to be sure.
Tech Tips welcomes contributions from readers. If
you have a boat-tested tip you'd like to share, send
complete information along with your name, boat
name and home port to:
Tech Tips, DIY Boat Owner
P.O. Box 22473
Alexandria, VA 22304
You can also e-mail to info@diy-boat.com
CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
BOAT
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DIY
TRAILERS
A guide to
maintaining,
servicing
customizing
your trailer.
&
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
PRE-SEASON
INSPECTION
A little maintenance goes a long way
in preserving the appearance and
performance of your trailer. Follow
these guidelines to organize your
pre-season maintenance.
Check your electrical system.
Trace the wiring from the tow vehicle
to the taillights and look for bare
wires, cracked insulation or corroded
terminals. Check that the white
ground wire is connected to the trail-
er frame. Replace all worn or dam-
aged parts. Make sure all trailer,
brake and turn signal lights are oper-
ating. Replace burned-out or corrod-
ed bulbs. Apply a light coating of
water-resistant grease, petroleum
jelly or moisture-displacing lubricant
to all plug prongs, bulb sockets, wire
splices and ground connections. This
provides a better seal, helps prevent
rust and corrosion and facilitates
replacement.
To check brake fluid level, remove
the cap on the actuator housing. If
fluid is about 12 mm (1/2") below
the top, add fluid. Use only fluids
specified by the trailer manufacturer.
Inspect brake shoes and rear seal.
Grease the wheel bearings follow-
ing the manufacturer's instructions.
Use a certified water-resistant marine
trailer bearing grease and a hand
gun. Never use automotive grease as
it is not water-resistant. Do not grease
when the hub is cold as too much
grease flow may damage seals and
brake shoes. Overgreasing bearing
protectors can cause the seal to fail.
To check the wheel bearings:
working on a level surface, block the
tire wheels, place a jack under the
axle and individually raise each
wheel clear of the ground. Place
your hands on the outside edge of
the tire and try to rock the wheel by
pushing on one side and pulling on
the other. Spin the wheel and listen
for noise or roughness. If the trailer
has brakes, make sure the brake
shoes are not dragging. The wheel
should spin freely and not rock.
Inspect the wheel bearings at least
once a year and repack if necessary.
To repack, follow the step-by-step
instructions on page 10. At the same
time, inspect grease seals and axles
and replace any worn or question-
able parts. If your trailer is not
equipped with bearing protectors
which keep the grease in and the
water out consider installing them
(see Bearing Facts).
The boat should be resting against
all trailer supports. If not, adjust the
height of the bunks and rollers to fit.
To reduce friction on roller trailers,
grease shafts on the rollers with a
medium weight oil. Examine the run-
ners and carpeting. Replace if worn.
Clean the winch and check for
corrosion. Lubricate the drive shaft
bearings of a mechanical winch reg-
ularly with oil and apply heavy
grease to the gears and reel shaft fre-
quently. Replace a frayed winch
rope, cable or webstrap. Consider
replacing wire with nylon web strap-
ping; there's less friction and it won't
rust. Check all tie-down straps for
wear.
Examine the coupler for rust,
cracks and correct clamp adjustment.
Lightly oil all moving parts such as
the hand-wheel threads and the pivot
points in the latching mechanism.
Give them a shot of a moisture-dis-
placing lubricant to prevent corro-
sion. Don't forget to check the safety
chain for damage.
Inspect the jack stand; lubricate if
necessary.
Check tire pressure (when tires are
cold) and tread depth in all tires
including the spare. Look for any visi-
ble cuts or bulges. Check the lug
bolts for tightness (do this prior to
every trip).
Examine welded joints on the trail-
er frame for any breaks. Make sure
all nuts and bolts are tight. Inspect
the axle springs and attaching U-
bolts for cracks and rust.
For painted steel trailers, sand or
wire brush any rust spots or chipped
or flaking paint. Prime if necessary
and apply a rust-inhibiting paint.
Touch-up rust spots on galvanized
trailers with cold galvanizing spray
paint. Protect your trailer with a qual-
ity marine-grade wax.
Make sure the ball is tight and the
right size.
BOAT
TRAILERS
TONGUE WEIGHT
Five to 10% of your trailer's Gross Vehicle
Weight or GVW (boat, gear and trailer) should be
supported by the trailer coupling ball when the tongue is
parallel to a level surface. For example, if the GVW is 1,350 kg
(3,000 lb), the weight on the coupler should not exceed 135 kg (300 lb)
or be less than 67.5 kg (150 lb). With smaller boats you can check
tongue weight with a bathroom scale. Place a wood support between
the coupler ball cup and the scale. Use a level to ensure trailer is hori-
zontal to the ground and adjust with plywood shims if necessary. For
larger boats, find a trailer supplier with a scale. If you reposition the
boat on the trailer, you'll need to recheck tongue weight. A slight shift in
positioning can alter tongue weight enough to cause handling problems.
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NOTES
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___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
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BEARING FACTS
Next time you hitch up your trailer for another long drive
to the lake, consider the punishment given to the trailer
wheel hub bearings. On long road trips, the wheel hubs
heat up. Then you launch the boat, submerge the trailer
and the hubs are suddenly cooled. This causes air inside
the hubs to contract, allowing water and dirt to enter via
small imperfections in the rear seal and greasecup. It's
like a detergent commercial: "How many washings will it
take before...?" Submerge a trailer repeatedly, and you
have the recipe for bearing corrosion and premature fail-
ure.
Bearing protectors replace the simple dust caps that
come with many trailers. They help avoid costly and,
often, untimely bearing failure. Marketed under a variety
of different names (Auto Lube, Bearing Buddy, Bearing-
Protect, Dutton-Lainson, Protect-A-Bearing, Wundacap
and others), Protectors maintain a slight constant pressure
inside the hub, using either air or spring pressure to pre-
vent water from seeping into the hub and causing bearing
failure.
Installation is quiet simple and with a few basic tools
can be accomplished in a few hours. (For complete
installation instructions, see Repacking Wheel Bearings,
Step 12.) Protectors are also easy to lubricate. Using a
certified water-resistant marine grease and a standard
hand-held grease gun, refill the grease fitting on the face
of the cap. Press on the spring-loaded piston on the end
of the bearing protector. If you cannot move the piston,
add grease until it starts to move. Do not overfill which
can damage seals and brake shoes; some models have a
built-in feature that prevents overfilling. Depending on the
protector, some products may require a slightly different
lubrication procedure. Some units have a see-through
Bearing protectors fit tightly
over the hub and are tapped
into place with a rubber mallet.
Using a grease gun, fill
the protector with a cer-
tified water-resistant
marine grease.
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
casing for viewing the amount and
condition of the hub grease.
Available in either zinc-plated
or chrome finish, protectors are sold
in pairs for less that $25 and come
in a variety of sizes that fit most hub
diameters.
REPACKING
WHEEL
BEARINGS
Wheel bearings often fail as a result
of frequent use at launch ramps.
Water enters through worn seals or
loose-fitting dust caps and is then
retained inside the hub long enough
to rust and corrode bearing parts
and the spindle. While protectors
help prevent water from entering the
hubs, no bearing system is foolproof.
Depending on how many times you
submerge your trailer, water will
eventually get into the bearings.
Manufacturers recommend
inspecting wheel bearings at least
once a year, preferably before stor-
ing for an extended period of time,
and at least twice during the season
if you frequently submerge the
wheels or boat in saltwater. If hubs
are not rotating smoothly, replace
bearings. Trailer hub bearing kits
help simplify this procedure and are
available to fit most spindle dimen-
sions. For less than $25 you get all
the components necessary to com-
plete the job on one wheel: two
bearing cones, two bearing cups, a
grease seal, cotter pin and some-
times a dust cap. When purchasing
a kit, be sure to match the spindle
dimensions and cone and cup num-
bers for both inner and
outer bearings.
Step 1
To work on the hubs, you will need
to raise trailer wheels off the ground.
Working on a level surface, block
the tire wheels, place a jack under
the axle and individually raise each
wheel clear of the ground. Place a
jack stand under the axle for safety.
Removing the tire is optional.
Step 2
Place plastic or newspaper under the
tire to catch any parts that may fall
off and to provide a clean work
area.
Step 3
To remove the dust cap or bearing
protector, lay a block of wood
against the outer edge and gently
tap it with a hammer. Then place the
wood on the opposite side and ham-
mer again. Continue alternating sides
until the protector is free of the hub.
Step 4
Remove the cotter pin and spindle
nut and wipe clean.
Step 5
To dislodge the thrust washer and
outer bearing cone, first screw the
spindle nut back on the spindle.
Axle Spindle
Grease Nipple
Hub
Washer
Spindle Nut
Cotter Pin
Outer Cone & Race
Grease Seal
Inner Cone
Inner Race
BOAT
TRAILERS
Check hub
lubricant
level when the hub
is warm. Manufacturers
recommend that you check just
prior to launching to be sure the
hub is full of grease when the
axle is submerged.
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Components of wheel hub and bearings.
TOOLS
REQUIRED
Jack stands
Adjustable wrench
Socket set
Pliers
Slot screwdriver
Rubber mallet
Hammer
Metal file
Emery cloth
Packaged kits come with all the
components needed to service a wheel
bearing for less than $25.
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Grab the tire with both hands, tilt the
top towards you and jerk the wheel
outwards over the nut. Remove and
clean. With luck, you can now
remove the hub, inner cone and seal.
If not, try jerking the wheel again. If
this fails, tap the hub assembly from
the back side, being careful not to
damage the seal, or try a wheel
puller that requires removing the tire
and rim from the hub. Carefully lay
all parts on the newspaper in the
order they were removed.
Step 6
To remove the grease seal and
inboard cone from the hub, place the
hub (or tire rim) on two level blocks
of wood, with the inside facing
down. After removing grease from
the center of the hub, lay a piece of
wood into the hole against the inner
cone and tap gently. Cover the
ground with newspaper to collect the
parts as they fall out.
Step 7
Wipe away excess grease and clean
with a degreaser or solvent (please
don't use gasoline). Inspect all parts
for corrosion, pitting, scoring or
watermarking. Bearing rollers should
spin freely. Replace any suspect bear-
ings and always in pairs: outer and
inner bearing sets plus corresponding
races. To separate the race from the
hub, lightly tap it with a wood block
and hammer. It's recommended that
you always replace the old grease
seals with new ones, so that grease
stays in and the water out.
Step 8
Examine the axle spindle. A badly
worn or scored spindle may indicate
a seized bearing. Carefully remove
any bumps with a filefollowed by
emery cloth. If the seal surface on the
rear of the spindle is damaged,
repair it with a Spindo Seal Kit.
These kits consist of a rust-free stain-
less steel seal ring, an O-ring and a
replacement grease seal.
Step 9
To reassemble, first replace the inner
and outer races (if removed), tapping
into place. With clean hands (use a
waterless hand cleaner), grease the
inner bearing cone with quality
wheel bearing grease: place a drop
of grease in the palm of your hand
and force the grease into the small
cavities between the rollers. Use a
plastic bag if you don't want to also
TOO
MUCH
GREASE?
If you are continually adding a lot
of grease to the hub, chances are
the rear (inner) seal is probably
leaking grease onto the axle
brakes (if equipped) and letting
water in. Grease leaking onto the
brake linings may cause the
brakes to malfunction. Trailer
manufacturers recommend replac-
ing grease seals once a year,
preferably before storing for an
extended period of time.
Replacement requires removing
the complete hub assembly from
the spindle.
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coat your hands. Set the bearing into
the race. Gently tap the grease seal
into the inner side of the hub using a
wood block or rubber mallet. Fill the
hub with grease to prevent air pock-
ets when reinstalled, then slip the hub
over the spindle.
Step 10
Repack the outer bearing cone with
grease (see Step 9) and install it, the
thrust washer and spindle nut. Hand
tighten the nut.
Step 11
Adjust the bearings as follows: spin
the wheel and tighten the spindle nut
until the hub begins to bind. Grip
and rock the tire to ensure the hub is
seated, spin again and tighten the
nut until the hub starts to bind.
(Check your owner's manual for the
recommended amount of torque.)
Back the nut off slightly so that the
wheel and hub are spinning freely.
Some nuts are drilled or slotted and
should be turned back one notch.
Check for excess play by shaking the
wheel and if the bearing seems to
operate without friction, insert the
cotter pin (if equipped). Cotter pins
are inexpensive; always use a new
one unless a replacement is not
available.
Step 12
Consider replacing dust caps with
bearing protectors if your trailer is
not so equipped. To install a bearing
protector, coat both mating surfaces
with a marine silicone sealant to pre-
vent leaks, line the protector up with
the hub, lay a block of wood over
the front of the protector and tap the
wood with a hammer. Bearing pro-
tectors fit tightly onto the hub: be sure
they are carefully aligned before
striking. Using a hand grease gun,
fill the protector with a certified
water-resistant marine grease. Check
hub lubricant level by pressing on the
spring-loaded piston on the end of
the bearing protector. If you cannot
move the piston, add grease until it
starts to move. With some protectors
you can visually see the grease level.
Do not overfill. If replacing a dust
cap, fill half full with grease before
driving on the hub. Check the lubri-
cant level when the hubs are warm
(after trailering).
Step 13
Remove any excess grease from the
hub or bearing protector and install
a grease cover, either an off-the-shelf
product or a plastic bag taped in
place. Repeat the same procedures
for each wheel. After lubricating the
wheels, always test the braking system.
TROUBLESHOOTING
HYDRAULIC
BRAKES
Larger boat trailers are ordinarily
equipped with hydraulic surge
brakes. Regular checking and peri-
odic adjustment will ensure proper
operation and longevity.
Brakes will last longer if you
don't get them wet. Brake linings
become water soaked when sub-
merged in water. Suppliers recom-
mended that you tow the trailer a
short distance then apply the brakes
before parking it. This "dries out" the
system and extends the life of the
brake linings. Saltwater can cause
severe damage to drum brake parts.
A brake flush kit will help resist corro-
sion. Surge brakes usually do not
have an automatic brake lining
adjustment system and require regu-
lar adjustments to compensate for
wear. Brake kits are available for
DIY installation.
BOAT
TRAILERS
CAR
CARE
Because your car's
engine has to work harder,
you may find it overheats on long
grades. If this happens, do not-
stop and idle or turn off the
engine. Instead, pull off to the
shoulder of the road, shift to neu-
tral, then step on the accelerator
so your engine is idling fast. The
fan causes more air to be taken in
and cools the engine faster.
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TRAILER
SETUP
A trailer that is not correctly
setup can damage the trailer
and boat. An improperly
aligned trailer can cause frame
and roller damage, increase
loading on the winch, fishtailing
on the highway and general
damage to the boat. Damage to
the boat's hull, referred to as
"wows and hooks," is often the
result of incorrect support. If the
boat is loading off center, check
the following:
1. For roller trailers, the boat
should rest evenly on all rollers.
If needed, adjust only the
tongue-keel rollers and side
rollers so that all parts of the hull
come in contact with each roller.
The boat's transom should rest
on the rear-most roller.
2. For bunk trailers, the long,
straight bunks should evenly dis-
tribute the load. Adjust the bunks
if one side is higher than the
other or does not fit the boat
properly. The boat's transom
should be even with the end of
the bunk.
3. If equipped with bow and
center supports, make sure that
each connects with the hull. To
prevent bouncing, keep tie-
downs tightly fastened.
4. Adjust the height of a
mechanical or electric winch so
the winch line is level with the
bow eye of the boat, which is
just below the bow stop roller or
vee block.
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GADGETS
& GISMOS
Theft-proofing
Insurance liability on trailerable boats
is high due to the frequency with
which they are stolen, especially
smaller boats and personal water-
craft. Leaving the trailer hitched to the
tow vehicle without a lock of some
kind is inviting trouble.
A variety of locking devices
secured to couplers, hitches, wheel
hubs or a jack stand help to deter
would-be thieves. Kwik Tek's
Combination Receiver Lock prevents
removal of the draw bar from the
hitch. It's integrated combination lock
is preset by the factory at 0-0-0-1. No
more forgotten or lost keys; you set
your own easy-to-remember (hopeful-
ly) combination. Three sizes for 6 mm
(1/4") and 5 cm (2") receiver boxes
and a long pin for securing the bow
eye of a personal watercraft directly
to the trailer sell for $28. When the
trailer is unhitched, Fulton's Gorilla
Guard is a simple device that inserts
into the socket of the coupler and
locks with a key. Locking the jack
stand in the down position is also a
good idea. At $149, Trailock is more
expensive than chains but a lot more
convenient than threading bulky chain
through the trailer wheels. It attaches
to the lug nuts, preventing the wheel
from turning. The device fits any trail-
er wheel with four or five lug nuts. To
install, remove each original lug nut
individually and replace with the sup-
plied steel hex adapters. Mount the
steel backplate and fasten the original
lug nuts. This part of the system
remains on the hub at all times. To
secure the trailer, attach the security
bar and cover plate then lock in
place. Trailock is available in custom
colors to match your trailer.
TRAILER
CONVERSIONS
Some boat owners find roller
trailers are easier to load and
unload. Rollers reduce friction
and minimize strain on the trailer
winch. Dutton-Lainson roller
bunks provide a quick, easy and
inexpensive way to upgrade car-
peted bunk- style trailers to
rollers. Available in 1.2 m (4')
and 1.3 m (5') lengths, roller
diameter is 5.7 cm (2-1/4") and
channel width is 5 cm (2").
Made of heavy gauge steel, they
are either mounted directly on
old woodbunks or in place of
them. When replacing wood
bunks, simply remove the exist-
ing bunk and replace with the
roller bunk. If the wood bunks
lay flat rather than upright,you
may need to replace the bunk
brackets. Optional adjustable
brackets allow mounting of the
roller bunks at the correct mount-
ing angle. Roller bunks also fit
directly over vertical or upright
carpeted wood bunks and are
through-bolted in place. After
installing, lower the bunk brack-
ets on the trailer. For either instal-
lation, check that the boat is
aligned correctly on the trailer.
Mounting hardware (not includ-
ed) requires 3/8" cap screws,
flat washers, lock washers and
nuts.
Symptom
Brake Noise
Shoe chatter, linings coated with grease.
Vibration noise.
Noise from worn or cracked drums.
Vibration from rough or loose wheel
bearings.
Excessive Travel of
Actuator
Leaks in hydraulic lines.
Low brake fluid in reservoir.
Reservoir full of fluid; brakes will not
apply.
Leading check valve fails to keep
hydraulic system preloaded.
Pressure Build-up in
System
Contaminated fluid causing cup swelling.
Hose or cylinder ports are closed or
restricted with dirt or weak return spring.
Solution
Brake Noise
Replace grease seals, re-line or replace
shoes and grind to fit drums.
Tighten hub bolts.
Replace drum.
Adjust bearings and replace if necessary.
Excessive Travel of
Actuator
Replace defective lines.
Refill master cylinder and bleed system.
Air lock in lines. Rebleed complete
system.
Restriction in line between reservoir and
master cylinder.
Adjust brakes or replace linings.
Pressure Build-up in
System
Drain, flush and replace fluid. Replace
damaged cups.
Overhaul or replace.
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Bearing Guard
TempAler'T is a dash-mounted indica-
tor panel that connects to a series of
temperature sensors mounted on
each axle or brake backing plate.
The device monitors wheel bearings
on a continuous basis and triggers
warning lights on the control module
when hub temperatures increase. A
separate light array for each wheel
bearing identifies the heated hub.
Kits are available for single-, tandem-
and triple-axle trailers and prices
range from $270 to $430.
Plug Mate
Many factory equipped towing pack-
ages on sport utilities and trucks use
a 6-way round socket for electrical
trailer connections. Most boat trail-
ers, on the other hand, use a 4-way
flat plug. You can splice your trailer
plug to the female socket end, or for
$32 purchase
a custom plas-
tic adapter
from Wesbar.
It installs quick-
ly onto a flat
plug and is just
as easily
removed when
not in use.
Lift and Support
For boats equipped with power trim,
a motor support bracket will help pre-
vent damage to the transom and
hydraulics by absorbing road shock
and vibration. It also protects the
skeg by elevating the lower unit. The
V-shaped end attaches to the
engine's lower unit and the inboard
end is held in place on the trailer.
Different models support motors up to
150 hp.
Available
from many
trailer sup-
pliers, a
bracket
costs about
$50.
Load Guides
If you cruise on waters that are sub-
ject to strong currents or crosswinds
or launch at a particularly steep
ramp, you should consider installing
load guides. These handy braces
center the boat on the trailer when
loading. They come in all shapes and
sizes, from a crude but effective
length of ABS pipe (topped with a
cap to prevent filling with water), to
vertical posts with rollers, to a color-
matched carpeted wood bunk. All
easily bolt directly to the side frame.
Upright posts also double as guides,
helping to align the boat when back-
ing up or loading, particularly at
steep and deep launch ramps. Some
models stow flat when the trailer is
empty.
Carry a Spare
All trailers should be equipped with
a spare tire and a specially designed
carrier mounts the tire out of the way.
Carriers bolt easily to the frame with-
out drilling and most are adjustable
to fit both four or five lug wheels.
Prices start at $20 for a simple U-
shaped rod bracket. A more elabo-
rate unit that carries the spare at an
angle to fit along side the boat costs
about $50. Look for one with a lock-
ing device of some kind that locks
both wheel and bracket
to the trailer.
BOAT
TRAILERS
Sources of Additional
Information
Books
Boat Trailers and Tow Vehicles, A
User's Guide by SteveHenkel, 134
pages, $20.95
Trailerboat Guide, by Joe
Skorupa, 180 pages, $21.95
Videos
Trailer Boat Handling, 75 min.
Bennett Marine Video, $41.95
Set your
own combi-
nation with
Kwik-Tek
Receiver
locks.
Fulton's
Gorilla
Guard
helps to
prevent
theft
when
trailer is
unhitched.
Trailock
attaches to
the lug nuts
and pre-
vents the
wheel from
turning.
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I don't know what it is about anchoring that many first
mates dread. Is it the business of casting anchor, which
seems to bring out our worst traits, or the one-finger
salutes from the helm? We see the same scenario every
summer: the first mate shouting instructions to the skip-
per, ("Read my lips") and the skipper screaming obscen-
ities back (never the first mate). The roar of the engine
and exhaust noise makes it impossible for the person at
the helm to communicate with the foredeck crew. A
portable, hands-free loud hailer for the crew would be
practical, but I haven't seen one yet, although surely it's
on a designer's drawing board somewhere. Anchoring
usually goes quite smoothly if the driver is perched on a
flybridge high above the deck where he or she can see
all the action. But for those boaters with a more lowly
post, your only salvation is a pre-arranged set of hand
signals. We checked with Chapman Piloting, called the
Canadian Power & Sail Squadrons and surprisingly
learned there are no signal standards. So we've devel-
oped a signal system based on our own experiences.
It's an uncomplicated system of hand signals that lets the
deck crew communicate directly with the helmsperson.
Arm signals, rather than hand sign language, are clear-
ly understood, especially when wearing gloves. You can
use these signals as a starting point or develop your
own. Either way, working together as a team is what
boating is all about!
C
AST OFF
1 2
3
4
Figure 1
Reverse throttle
Figure 2
Stop
Figure 3
Anchor broken free
(when raising) or
anchor down
(when lowering)
Figure 4
Neutral
Figure 5
Forward slowly
5
ANCHORS AWEIGH
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B
RIGHTWORK
THE FINE ART
OF VARNISHING
When not maintained,
brightwork quickly
loses its luster.
There's nothing more attractive than
a gleaming, newly varnished
grabrail or hatch board. But main-
taining exterior brightwork, defined
as "any woodwork which is kept var-
nished," is a tedious and time-con-
suming process. It involves long
hours of sanding, varnishing, sand-
ing and more varnishing. There are
no miracle cures for brightwork, or at
least none that I have discovered.
Over the years, I have used a variety
of one- and two-part protective clear
coatings, generically referred to as
varnish. Varnishes are generally
made up of five specific ingredients:
oil, resin, solvent, dryers and addi-
tives including ultraviolet (UV)
inhibitors.
Ultraviolet is your brightwork's
worst enemy. The sun's rays quickly
deteriorate varnish, causing it to blis-
ter and peel. A UV filter in a varnish
helps to protect the finish but no coat-
ing is foolproof; different varnishes
offer varying degrees of protection.
(Read the label carefully before buy-
ing as some products are without a
UV inhibitor.) Traditional spar var-
nishes offer ease of application with
good gloss and moderate durability.
Advanced single- and two-part
polyurethanes are more finicky and
while they may last longer than tradi-
tional varnishes, both products
require a heavy buildup of coats for
a long-lasting finish. A properly
applied varnish with six or more lay-
ers is easily maintained with a main-
tenance coat once or twice every
season.
Unfortunately, with the short
boating season in many areas, prime
varnishing days are better spent on
the water. All too often, there's time
for only two or three coats. Repairs
to surface damage, such as nicks or
gouges, go untreated and water
seeps under the coating. Neglect the
brightwork and you can expect to
strip what's left of it next year. The
more coats you put on, the longer the
finish will last and the less amount of
work you'll have to maintain it.
PREPARATION
The key to a successful varnishing
job is proper surface preparation.
Previously varnished surfaces must
be first washed with warm water to
prevent rubbing the contaminants
into the surface when sanding.
When the existing coating is badly
worn use a paint remover, such as
Interlux Pintoff 199, to remove blis-
tered and flaking varnish.
Alternately, scrape with a cabinet
scraper; frequently sharpen the cut-
ting edge with a file and round the
ends to prevent gouging the wood.
Sand the surface by the "num-
bers," beginning with a larger grit
and finishing with 150- to 220-grit
paper to produce a smooth, scratch-
free finish. When sanding a stained
surface, use a finer grit sandpaper to
prevent sanding through the stain.
Use a sanding block, either a com-
mercially available hard rubber
block or a chunk of soft wood, when
sanding large surfaces. Sand with
the grain, keep the sandpaper clean
and change it often. If you must sand
across the grain use a fine grit and a
light touch, then finish sanding with
the grain. Sand out all cracks to pre-
vent trapping moisture that can
cause discoloration of the wood and
wearing away of the varnish. Round
all corners to prevent varnish from
chipping. To sand inside corners
and edges where trim meets the
deck, a bulkhead or cockpit coam-
ing, wrap sandpaper around the dull
edge of a table knife. If the inside
edge is round, use a pencil or piece
of 6 mm (1/4") wood dowel
wrapped with sandpaper. If you
need to fill the surface, spread the
filler with a brush in the direction of
the grain. Use a cloth moistened
with brushing thinner to even out any
streaks and wipe off excess wood
filler before it dries. When dry, sand
lightly to remove raised wood fibers
caused by cleaning. On previously
varnished surfaces in good condi-
tion, sand with 220-grit paper to
remove the top coat of old varnish.
After sanding, vacuum the
dust residue then carefully wipe the
surface with clean lint-free rags or
cheesecloth dampened with brush-
ing thinner, lifting the dirt from the
surface. Use plenty of rags, chang-
ing often. A brush will pick up any
sanding residue hiding in the
crevices. Take a break to let the dust
settle, then come back in a couple of
hours and vacuum again.
Having the right tools makes the
job easier, faster and gives premium
results. A badger-style, natural bristle
brush that has a chiseled edge,
rather than square, provides a finer
working tip when applying varnish.
Clean all brushes, rollers and con-
tainers in solvent before using to
remove dirt and other contaminants.
Reserve a variety of brush sizes for
varnish only and never use one that
was ever used for paint.
Store var-
nish and paint
cans upside down so the
skin forms on bottom (when
opened) of coating, not the top.
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APPLICATION TIPS
Temperature, direct sunlight and
humidity all affect drying times.
Choose a warm and dry (low humidi-
ty) day to do your varnishing, espe-
cially if using a polyurethane coat-
ing. Some paints won't dry if the tem-
perature is below 10 C (50 F); over
26 C (80 F) paints dry too fast, leav-
ing highly visible brush strokes. Try to
apply in the shade as direct sunlight
causes bubbles in the varnish. Unless
you work in a covered shed, finding
shade may be impractical so apply a
heavier coat to increase the working
time. Strong winds bring unwanted
airborne critters embedded in the
fresh varnish or a too-fast cure, creat-
ing visible brush strokes and an
uneven finish, all of which must be
sanded out and recoated.
At last, you're ready to varnish.
Shed the dusty overalls for clean
ones. Vacuum again to remove any
sanding dust and contaminants and
mask uncoated areas with a solvent-
resistant striping tape. Open the var-
nish container and remove any skin
that has formed on the top. Never
shake or stir varnish unless instructed
to do so on the label; some satin and
rubbed-effect varnishes may require
mixing. Stirring produces bubbles in
the varnish that will not brush out and
causes a slight depression when dry.
Strain new and old varnish through a
paper filter or nylon stocking before
using while pouring a small amount
into a clean plastic or metal contain-
er. Just before recoating, wipe the
surface with a tack rag to remove
any residue. After completing the
final surface cleaning, resist the temp-
tation to draw your hand over it!
Varnish early in the day before
the sun gets too hot. When working
in an enclosed area, make sure you
have adequate ventilation, especially
when using potent, two-component
systems, some of which require wear-
ing a respirator. You should also
wear protective clothing and cover
your hands with gloves or a barrier
cream.
To enhance wood penetration,
thin the first coat and possibly succes-
sive coats by 10% to 50% with the
recommended thinner; check the
label for specific instructions.
Thinning keeps the wet edge open
longer, allowing better paint flow
and leveling of brush strokes
between coated areas. Oily wood
like teak requires additional thinning
of the first coat to ensure the varnish
soaks into the wood. Using your pre-
mium badger-style brush, saturate the
brush with varnish to prevent bubbles
forming on the wood, then apply a
thin coating of varnish. To prevent
runs, don't overload an area with
varnish. On large areas use a thin
foam roller for the initial application
of varnish and "tip off" with a natural
bristle brush immediately following
the roller application to smooth roller
marks. Apply "wet-on-wet,"overlap-
ing brush and roller strokes to blend
the wet edges of the coated areas. If
the varnish "pulls," a condition
caused when the coating is too thick
for the ambient temperature, add
thinner but never more than recom-
mended.
If the weather cooperates and
time permits, apply a minimum of six
coats over properly prepared sur-
faces. Sand between coats with 220-
grit paper. Again, check the direc-
tions on the can as finishing grits dif-
fer between varnishes. Sand until all
gloss is no longer visible, then wipe
clean with a cloth moistened in
brushing thinner. If you prefer to "rub
down" the varnish, use bronze not
steel wool. Steel particles embedded
in the surface will eventually rust
through the varnish. When a fast
buildup of coats and quick overcoat-
ing are necessary, use a varnish that
contains an accelerator that speeds
up the drying time.
Clean your brushes after every
coat in the appropriate solvent, then
rinse in detergent and lukewarm
water, followed by a clean-water
rinse. Shake well. Hang by the han-
dle to avoid curling of the bristle tips
or lay flat to dry. Brushes are now
prepped for the next application.
The most important consideration
when varnishing is frequency. A cor-
rectly applied varnish job will last
many months before it needs a light
sanding and recoating. One or two
maintenance coats a season is not
unreasonable when it comes to pre-
serving the exterior brightwork and
all your hard labor. A good rule of
thumb to remember is when the gloss
begins to dull, it's time to recoat.
Make an effort to inspect the bright-
work regularly and touch up as need-
ed, especially in the fall before stor-
ing the boat for the winter. If you can
maintain your brightwork on a regu-
lar basis, varnishing becomes much
less of a chore and more of a plea-
sure.
Sources of
Additional Information
Books
Brightwork: The Art of Finishing
Wood by Rebecca Wittman,
192 pages, $50.95
Videos
Varnishing Made Easy, 43 min.
Bennett Marine Video,$33.95
New and
improved,
Interlux
Superspar
Varnish #90 is a
traditional spar
varnish that
now contains
an ultraviolet
filter.
Application Don'ts
Varnish in direct sunlight or in strong
winds
Apply late in the day
Varnish when surface is hot to touch
When it rains
When moisture content of the wood
is greater than 13% to 18%
Application Do's
When surface temperature is between 10 C (50 F) and 26 C (80 F)
Always maintain a wet edge Apply in direction of grain
Use a natural bristle, badger-hair brush
Apply within three hours before the
dew falls
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PROJECTS DIY
END MILDEW,
INSTALL A
SOLAR VENT
Condensation is a serious problem
in the interior of most fiberglass and
some wood boats. In fact, nearly
95% of all pleasure boats are inade-
quately ventilated. Hot, humid day-
time air in a tightly sealed cabin
cools at night producing a green-
house-like effect. Excessive moisture
eventually mildews fabrics, corrodes
metal and rots wood.
The best way to prevent
mildew is to add ventilation. The
leader in marine ventilation is
California-based Nicro Corp. which
makes a variety of plastic, stainless
steel and bronze vents. Of all the
models, solar-powered vents are the
most effective means of increasing
air flow and controlling mildew.
These vents deliver a constant sup-
ply of fresh air into the cabin. Not
cheap, solar vents cost $100 and
up, but its worth the investment for
the increased comfort below.
Vents mount easily in just a
few hours. Installation involves cut-
ting a hole in the deck or hatch
cover. When marking the hole, pay
particular attention to placement of
all electrical wires, headliners and
fittings located either below or
around the cutout. Cut the hole with
a jigsaw or hole saw to the exact
size, otherwise the deck ring will not
lie flat. Where there is excessive
deck camber, add shims to flatten
the mounting surface. The procedure
is actually quite easy and every vent
comes with comprehensive, step-by-
step instructions for marking, cutting
and mounting vents in fiberglass,
Plexiglas or wood. Also included
are all necessary hardware and a
deck ring. Optional accessories
include deck plates, Teak Trim Rings
and Hole Liners for
thick decks. When
properly installed, the
vents are completely
rain-proof. A shut-off
damper stops the air
flow and water from
entering the cabin.
For 24-hour ventila-
tion, some vents have a
Ni-Cad battery,
charged by solar
power, that runs the
fan on overcast days or
at night. The 10 cm
(4") model moves up to 850 cubic
feet of air per hour. Interchangeable
blades allow either intake or exhaust
ventilation. If your boat already has
dorade or cowl vents, an exhaust
vent removes stagnant, humid air
while increasing the flow of fresh
cabin air.
FENDER
BOARDS
If you do a lot of cruising, docking at
foreign ports, even traveling through
a lock or two, it's a good idea to
have extra hull protection on board.
Made of pressure-treated fir, fender
boards are easy and cheap to
make. Take a standard 2 x 4 about
1.2 m (4') to 1.8 m (6') in length.
Drill holes in the ends and pass 9
mm (3/8") line through the holes,
tying knots at the bottom and top to
prevent the board from sliding up
the line. Purchase some heavy duty
dock edging and fasten to the ends
and middle, about four per board.
Now youve got an extra measure of
defense when docked against a
jagged pier or vertical pilings.
AUTOMATIC
HEAD FEEDER
One of the best products I've
installed of late is an automatic head
treatment device. It's a convenient,
easy to use auto feed system for
heads with holding tanks. Attached
to the intake line between the head
and the seacock, it automatically
releases the exact amount of chemi-
cal every time you pump or flush the
head. Easy to install, simply cut the
hose and slide over the hose fittings,
then insert a cartridge filled with
head chemical. The chemical turns
the water blue and when the water
starts to run clear, it's time to add a
new cartridge (about one month).
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
new cartridge (about one month).
There's no more measuring and
pouring messy liquids into the bowl
and no more telltale blue-stained fin-
gers. With a consistent supply of
chemical, head odors are reduced
or eliminated. Two products are cur-
rently available. The Head-O-Matic
Tank-ette kit includes a two-part
magnum bullet that sells for $89.95.
A six-pack of replacement bullets
costs $35.70. Head Treatment, a
similar but less expensive product
($12.95), contains a screw bottle
filled with liquid chemical that lasts
up to 300 flushes.
CHAFE
PROTECTION
Vibration quickly causes chafing of
rubber hose where it contacts a hard
surface. To protect engine and plumb-
ing hoses from wearing through, use
strips of slit hose. Cut a length of
duplicate hose or
one with a simi-
lar inside diame-
ter and slice in
half along its
length with an
Exacto knife.
Spread open,
then slide over
the existing hose
any place where
it rubs against another fitting, bulk-
head, engine mount or the hull. The
snug fit ensures the hose strip stays in
place.
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T
ROUBLESHOOTING

SHAFT
ALIGNMENT
It's a good idea to check the shaft
alignment every spring after launch-
ing and during the season if there is
excessive vibration. A misalignment
of a mere .10 mm (.004") can cause
wearing of the stuffing box and cut-
lass bearing. If your body trembles
from vibration when sitting in the
cockpit, it's definitely time to check
the shaft alignment.
Using a socket, loosen the
nuts on the transmission coupling,
remove the bolts and washers, and
pull back the shaft coupling. The
flanges should separate easily; if
not, there may be a ding on the mat-
ing surfaces or the engine is mis-
aligned, causing the join to bind.
Use a strong, thin knife, like a putty
knife, inserted into the gap and force
the two flanges apart. Do not use a
slot screwdriver which may nick the
coupling edges. To realign, match
the face of the flange on the shaft
coupling to the flange on the trans-
mission. With a gap gauge, mea-
sure the gap between the faces at
the top, bottom, right and left. Check
your owner's manual for the exact
maximum tolerance allowed. If
you're without a gauge, a square of
regular bond paper doubles as a
gap gauge in a pinch. (Its about
.010 thick.) The paper should slide
evenly around all points between the
couplings. If the gap varies or the
paper binds anywhere along the
mating surfaces, you need to adjust
the height of the engine on the
mounts. This may require both hori-
zontal and vertical adjustments until
the distance between the coupling
flanges match equally. Use washers
as spacers if you need to raise the
engine. When the gap is equal on
all sides, attach the coupling bolts,
washers and lock nuts. Do not force
the bolts into place if the shaft cou-
pling does not line up with the trans-
mission coupling. Tighten firmly and
evenly.
SHUT-
OFF VALVE KIT
FOR DIESELS
For boats equipped with a Racor
fuel filter/water separator, a $50
plug simplifies draining the collec-
tion bowl and prevents spilling fuel
on your hands or into the bilge.
Easily retrofitted to most Racor fil-
ter/separators, the Marine Shut-Off
Valve Kit, part number RK 19492,
includes a drain valve with shut-off
and plug that replaces the original
drain plug. To install, first remove
the drain plug from the filter/separa-
tor and attach the valve kit using
thread sealant to prevent leakage.
To use, remove the valve plug, open
the valve to discharge contaminants
into a collection jar, close the valve
and replace the drain plug.
SAY GOOD-BYE
TO LEAKING
STUFFING
BOXES
How many times have you taken a
flashlight, peered into the bilge and
counted the drips falling from the
stuffing box? And when the stuffing
box dripped steadily and tightening
slightly by hand did not stop the
water flow into the bilge, you had to
replace the packing material.
Conventional stuffing boxes rely on
water to cool the packing. A 90s
alternative to dripping stuffing boxes
is Tides Marine's Strong Shaft Seal.
Strong Shaft Seal is a water-
tight, self-aligning shaft seal. The
patented, one-piece unit has no mov-
ing parts and is maintenance-free. It
consists of a water-lubricated shaft
bearing machined into the housing.
The bearing aligns the shaft and seal
and prevents misalignment and shaft
wear. Made of a non-corrosive rub-
ber material, the seal is resistant to
electrolysis. Best of all, it's watertight
now you can have a dry bilge.
Installation of the Strong
Shaft Seal is fairly simple. Detailed,
step-by-step instructions are outlined
in the company's brochure. The
most difficult task will be extracting
ENGINE
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the propeller shaft from the shaft
coupling. For most shafts the pro-
peller will be fairly stubborn. Do not
hammer the propeller or the shaft
which may bend. Use a shaft puller.
If you are without a puller, have a
marine technician remove the shaft
for you; the rest of the job you can
easily complete with a few basic
tools. The shaft must be free of cor-
rosion, saltwater residue and any
sharp edges, nicks or burrs, espe-
cially the portion under the old hose,
stuffing box and the coupling key-
way. Use a flat file or emery cloth to
smooth shaft. Following the instruc-
tions, you then attach the new
exhaust hose and Shaft Seal.
Providing the shaft comes out easily
and is not badly scored, you should
be able to complete this job in an
afternoon.
Strong Shaft Seals are avail-
able in a range of both imperial and
metric sizes from 20 mm to 76 mm
and 3/4" to 5". A 7/8" seal costs
US$93; a 2" is US$364.
Strong also offers bear-
ings for rudder shafts that
replace leaking and cor-
roded bearings for wheel-
or tiller-steered systems.
Contact Tides Marine at
(800) 420-0949 or fax,
(954) 420-5234


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11
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T
ROUBLESHOOTING

OUTBOARD ENGINE
TROUBLESHOOTING
A guide to identifying and
solving some of the basic
problems encountered by
outboard owners.
For engines not equipped
with electric start, omit
references to starter and
battery.
Symptom Check-over
Motor will not start Fuel gauge (low fuel)
Fuel line connection or
pinched fuel line
Fuel filters and/or screens
clogged
Water or dirt in fuel
Air vent on portable tank
closed
Choke setting incorrect
Loose spark plug wire
Gear shift position
(neutral for starting)
Faulty electric start
Loose or corroded battery
cable connections
Battery needs recharging
Emergency kill-switch lanyard
not correctly attached or
shorting the electrical
system
Motor hard to start Fuel tank vent closed
Fuel line pinched
Fuel line not primed or lost
prime
Low in fuel
Choke malfunction
Water or dirt in fuel (add a
conditioner and replace
fuel filter)
Loose spark plug wire
Fouled spark plugs: try a
new set
Needs a tune-up
Motor runs rough Water or dirt in fuel
Incorrect fuel/oil mixture
Carburetor idle needle needs
adjustment
Fouled park plugs or loose wire
Loss of power
Propeller fouled with weeds or
fishing line
Broken sheer pin (if equipped)
Low in fuel
Weeds or debris clogging water
intake on lower unit
Loose spark plug wires
Motor vibrates Loose mounting clamps
Bent or broke propeller blades
Plastic bag or other debris
snagged on propeller
Motor stops Low fuel supply
No oil in fuel (for 2-stroke
engines)
Broken spark plug wire
Water intake blocked or
malfunctioning water pump
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RENEWED
LIFE FOR
RECHARGEABLES
After three sea-
sons of use, the
Ni-Cad battery in
our hand-held
VHF radio was
dead. The back-
up battery was
not fairing much
better, as it would
not hold a charge
for long. Upon
consulting an
electronics expert
we soon discov-
ered it was our
mishandling of
the batteries that
had created the
problem.
With proper
care, a Ni-Cad
battery will give upwards of 10 years
of service. Misuse it, however, and it
dies prematurely. Ni-Cad batteries
have the strange ability to memorize
charging procedures. If you use your
radio for only a few hours then
recharge it, the battery may not fully
charge. Do this repetitively and the
battery will develop a preference for
not being fully charged or not hold a
charge for long.
The best way to maintain perfor-
mance and ensure longevity of Ni-
Cad batteries is to totally discharge
them to a nearly "dead" state before
recharging. The solution is to charge
your hand-held VHF radio only when
it needs it and never leave the battery
attached to the charger when full. It
not only reduces battery life but also
acclimatizes the battery to a light
charge.
Replacement batteries range
from $50 and $130, depending on
the radio make and model. Before
discarding the old one, consider hav-
ing it inspected by a battery special-
ist. Reconditioning costs about $50
and many shops do not charge for a
battery they cannot revive.
SQUARE PLUG
IN A ROUND
HOLE
Many of the newer instruments for
sailboats are surface mounted and
almost all are square units. Fitting a
square into a circular hole is fairly
simple if the new unit is the same size
or larger. But when a replacement is
slightly smaller than the original instru-
ment, modifications are more difficult.
Unfortunately, newer instruments are
substantially smaller in size and man-
ufacturers do not provide adapters
that replace older round-faced instru-
ments. Depending on the construction
of the bulkhead, you can quite easily
retrofit square instruments without sac-
rificing
cosmetics.
When replacing older instru-
ments you should remove the old unit,
fill the hole and cut a new one. This is
the ideal procedure, but matching the
original laminate or even filling the
gap with a fiberglass and epoxy mix-
ture is extremely time consuming. A
less costly and speedier method and
one used by many installers, is to
cover the offending hole with a
Plexiglas or teak pad. A 6 mm (1/4")
pad is glued and screwed to the out-
side and the new hole cut out with the
help of a drill and jigsaw. Use white
or smoked Plexiglas or select a color
that closely matches the instrument or
bulkhead. Oiled or varnished teak
will look great the first season but
requires regular maintenance to retain
its luster. Inside the cabin, the new
instrument will stand somewhat proud
of the bulkhead. If it's installed on a
teak bulkhead and highly visible,
fashion a teak box to conceal the
instrument. Otherwise, cut a Plexiglas
pad that covers the round hole.
There are some companies still
offering traditional, round-faced instru-
ments: Datamarine, SR Mariner,
Horizon and others. But these instru-
ments operate on older analog tech-
nology. If you want to take advantage
of new digital technology or network
with other instruments, you'll need to
join the cyber age.
ELECTRONICS
REPAIRS:
Getting the best bang for
your buck
Manufacturers build marine electron-
ics to withstand harsh conditions, but
even with high quality controls some
units break down. Repair costs vary,
depending on the age and type of
hardware and extent of the damage.
Irene Robb, service manager of
Ocean Distribution, offers the follow-
ing advice when electronics fail and
how to best deal with a repair facility.
With new VHF radios costing
around $250 for a
E
LECTRONICS
To cut a
square hole
with a jigsaw, first
drill a 8 mm (5/16") hole
in each of the four corners, care-
fully positioning the drill so it dis-
sects the vertex. Insert the saw
blade in each hole and cut along
the vertical or horizontal line to
the corner. Reposition the blade
in the connecting hole and con-
tinue cutting. When completed,
you will have a square cutout
with perfectly matched corners.
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basic system, these are frequently a
throwaway item, especially when the
unit is an older "crystalline entity."
do not fair much better: a repair can
average 50% of the replacement
value and if it requires an entire cir-
cuit board, this can cost more than a
new radio. As for depthsounders, the
biggest complaint is an intermittent
signal caused by aeration bubbles
interfering with the transducer. As you
probably are a little gun-shy of remov-
ing the transducer while afloat and do
not want to haul the boat, this
becomes a winter project. Many
older autopilots and lorans are
repairable providing replacement
parts are available. Improper align-
ment is the most common problem
with lorans. Units have a temperature-
controlled oscillator and when this
becomes misaligned the receiver is no
longer able to pick up and lock on a
signal.
When returning any equipment
for repair, you need to provide the
service technician with a complete
analysis of the problem. First deter-
mine the symptoms. Does the unit
come on when power is applied? If it
does, what operation is malfunction-
ing? With radar, for example, will it
operate in close range but not long
distance? Sometimes a unit that fails
to run in the boat operates perfectly in
the shop. Provide the technician with
as much information as you can col-
lect and include a written analysis
with the unit. Also supply a day-time
telephone number. Most companies
provide a repair estimate for about
$50 but will not order replacement
parts until the estimate is approved.
AUTOMATIC
CO-PILOT
The SportPilot Plus from Autohelm is
designed for single-steering-station
5.4 m (18') to 9 m (30') powerboats,
such as sports cruisers, sportfishermen
and rigid inflatables. The price is high
(suggested list is $2,200) but the
advantages to a small-boat owner are
many. When you need to tend the
downrigger, untangle the ski tow line
or check the charts, an autopilot will
keep the boat on course and traveling
in a straight line.
Easy to operate, it works much
like cruise control in a car. When you
need a break from steering, line up
the helm, move the switch on the con-
trol lever to Auto, dial in the correct
speed factor and let go of the wheel.
An external fluxgate compass (sup-
plied) feeds the unit with heading
information. To avoid a hazard or
another boat, just move the wheel to
disengage the autopilot and steer
manually. Once clear, return the boat
to the original course and the
SportPilot Plus automatically resumes
control. Speed control, located on the
lever, determines the amount of rudder
applied when making course
changes. Audible alarms warn the
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any GPS or loran receiver. When linked to either of these
devices, the SportPilot will steer to waypoints following a user-
defined route. Options include a remote control, SeaTalk
speed instruments for automatic speed settings, rudder refer-
ence unit (required with hydraulic helm pump) and choice of
rotary (for hydraulic inboard steering systems) or linear (for
hydraulic outboard steering systems) transducer. The unit fits
mechanical or hydraulic steering systems, 19 mm (3/4") and
25 mm (1") steering shafts and wheels up to 54 cm (21").
Designed for do-it-yourself mounting, installation is easily
completed in a weekend. The unit comes with templates, drill
bits, adhesive, all hardware, wires and connections. You'll
need to supply a selection of screwdrivers, wrench and socket
sets, pliers, vice grips (just in case), drill and jigsaw.
Instructions are easy to follow and well illustrated. Installation
gets more complicated if you cannot install the fluxgate com-
pass on the boat's centerline or away from interference from
the boat's main steering compass. Also allow extra time if you
need to build a mounting base for the rotary rudder reference
transducer.
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Mast tuning is extremely important to
the handling of a boat under sail, and
safety of those on-board. A properly
tuned mast contributes significantly to
the boat's performance and is less
likely to fail or break.
To fully comprehend rig tuning,
you need to understand a few basic
principles. All masts can only lean or
bend in two ways: either forward-and-
aft or sideways. The goal is to set up
a rig so the mast is as straight as pos-
sible when sailing in moderate wind
conditions and to also achieve an
acceptable helm balance. To this end,
mast tuning is divided into two com-
ponents: lateral tuning and rake.
Lateral tuning involves getting
the mast to stand straight without lean-
ing or bending sideways. Side lean,
or the amount a mast tilts to leeward,
is caused by improper tuning. A mast
leaning to leeward increases heeling
which induces weather helm. Since
most boats have too much weather
helm in a breeze, it's important to
minimize lateral side lean with the
correct rig tension. Sideways bend is
usually caused by too loose or
stretchy upper shrouds. As the wind
increases, the shroud tension required
to hold the mast up also increases.
With more tension comes more stretch
and more side bend. With the mast
now out of column comes the risk of
damage or complete failure. Correct
lateral tuning also prevents the mast
from buckling or pumping sideways.
Rake is the tilt of the mast in the
fore-and-aft direction. Headstay length
primarily controls the amount of
rake. A mast standing perfectly
plumb in the boat has no rake.
Moving the mast shifts the entire
sail plan and, in turn, affects the
helm balance. Raking the mast
aft increases weather helm
(and reduces lee helm) and
vice versa. The amount of rake
is dependent on your boat
type and local sailing condi-
tions. Ideally, you need to find a set-
ting that gives good helm balance
through a broad range of conditions.
Ask other owners and your sailmaker
for input.
Mast bend refers to the amount
the mast is bent aft from a straight col-
umn. It controls the overall fullness of
the mainsail, particularly the upper
two-thirds of the main, and is adjust-
ed by backstay tension. Boats with-
out adjustable backstays can add
bend by moving the mast aft at the
step or forward at the partners.
The following step-by-step
instructions are for tuning a single-
spreader masthead rig that is deck or
keel stepped. Some of this informa-
tion is based on the North Cruising
Course manual published by North
Sails (240 pages, $35).
Step 1
Center the spar. First, ease the
backstay to a low load and lightly
hand-tighten the upper shrouds.
Attach a metal tape measure to the
main halyard (provided the sheave is
in the center of the mast) and hoist to
the top. Measure the distance to the
gunwale on each side. Adjust the
uppers until the mast is equidistant
from both gunwales. On keel-
stepped masts also check that clear-
ance at the mast partners is equal on
both sides. Remove the side wedges
or chocks and measure from the spar
at deck level to either rail. Since some
boats may be a little lop-sided, there
is no foolproof way to get the spar
straight. Combining both checks
reduces the chance of error. When
the mast is laterally straight, replace
the deck wedges to
hold it securely in
place.
Step 2
Tighten the uppers to eliminate
lean and bend. Tension both
uppers equally, counting the number
of turns on the turnbuckle as you tight-
T
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the
MASTHEAD RIG
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en. Make as tight as you are com-
fortable with; final adjustments will
be made on the water.
Step 3
Get the rig straight. On a single-
spreader rig, begining with loose
lower shrouds and working on oppo-
site sides, tighten each shroud until
the spar is straight.
Sight up the mainsail luff
groove and eyeball the alignment.
To tension-test the rig, stand directly
behind the mast and pull each
shroud beginning with the uppers,
followed by the intermediates (if
equipped) then single or forward
lowers. Working side to side, "play"
the shrouds and listen for the "tune."
The uppers should be the tightest, fol-
lowed by the intermediates, then the
single or forward lowers. Save the
final tuning for the sailing test. On
double lowers (fore and aft), the aft
lower should be barely slack. It acts
as a preventer, limiting mast bend
when the breeze freshens. Now,
tighten the headstay until snug.
Step 4
Fore-and-aft tuning. This
involves both rake and mast bend.
To measure rake, set the adjustable
backstay (if equipped) to the normal
sailing load and hang a plumb bob
from the main halyard. Check the
amount of rake at the boom. Another
method is to attach a tape measure
to the jib halyard and hoist to the
top. Measure the distance to the tack
fitting. This provides an accurate
head stay length to compare with
other boats. Make sure the boat is
level on its designed waterline. Try to
find an average setting that induces
weather helm in light air and decreas-
es it in heavy air. Adjust the double
lowers if you change the mast rake.
Step 5
Mast bend. Tensioning the back-
stay increases mast bend. The amount
of bend to use depends on your main-
sail, the wind and sea conditions,
and is only limited by the structural
design of the spar. Before determin-
ing if the bend is sufficient, go for a
test sail. When additional mast bend
is required, adjust the step position or
deck wedges on keel-stepped masts.
This involves forcing the mast forward
at the partners (deck level) or moving
the butt of the mast aft while fixed at
the partners. With deck-stepped
masts, you will need to shim the
tabernacle or mast butt. Adjust the
double lowers when changing mast
bend.
ON THE WATER
Select a medium-air day and sailing
upwind, tack back and forth. Check
the tension on the leeward upper
shroud and tighten the slack if neces-
sary. Tack and check the other upper.
Count the number of turns and ten-
sion both uppers equally. Adjust
lower shrouds, as needed, to prevent
Rig adjustments under sail: 1. Uppers too slack 2. Lowers too tight 3. Uppers and
lowers too slack 4. Uppers and lowers too tight 5. Lowers too slack
1 2 3 4 5
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buckling. When sailing in a moderate breeze (20 degree
angle of heel is a good rule), the leeward upper should be
just snug, without slack, but not tight. Continue sailing and
check the lowers. Tighten the leeward lower then tack to
check your results. The spar should be straight with 20
degrees of heel. Use the mast luff groove as a sight line. If
the lowers are too loose, the mast will sag at the spreader
when under load.
Check the headstay sag. The amount of sag increas-
es exponentially with the wind and pulling the sail tighter
with the sheet forces the headstay aft. Tensioning the
backstay tightens the forestay and reduces headstay
sag; decreasing sag flattens the genoa and improves
upwind perfor-
mance in heavy
air. About 7.6
cm (3") of sag in
a 15-knot breeze
is acceptable.
Maximum head-
stay tension
should be about
16% of the wire's
breaking
strength. On a
boat equipped
with 5 mm
(3/16") wire with
a breaking
strength of 2,115
kg (4,700
pounds), for example, the headstay tension is around
337.5 kg (750 pounds). If your boat is not equipped with
an adjustable backstay, wait for a breeze and tighten the
headstay until sag cannot be reduced by further tighten-
ing. This should provide an average setting that gives your
genoa an acceptable shape under a wide range of condi-
tions.(Better yet, install a backstay adjuster.)
Tensioning the backstay also increases mast bend
which flattens the mainsail. When bending the mast with
RIG
TENSION
Tensioning the rig until it's "drum-
tight" puts tremendous loads on the
hull. While this is an acceptable
practice for racers, cruisers should
opt for a slightly looser rig.
Leaving some room for stretch in
the wire provides a shock-absorb-
ing effect when hit by a gust. A
sure sign that the rigging is too
tight: deformed or crazed fiber-
glass around the mast step.
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an adjustable backstay, make sure the lowers are not
under load and affecting the setting; adjust lowers if nec-
essary. The forward lowers double as a babystay and can
be tightened so that the mast bends slightly forward at the
spreaders. If you are unable to flatten a deep mainsail in
a moderate breeze, consider either increasing mast bend
or recutting the mainsail. If you decide to change the
bend, do this at the dock.
With tuning completed, replace the cotter pins with
new ones. Use stainless steel pins and open to a minimum
of 30 degrees, then wrap all exposed pins and turnbuck-
les with rigging tape.
DEFINITIONS
Lateral tuning: getting the spar to stand straight
athwartships.
Rake: adjusting the forward or aft lean or tilt of the spar
to control helm balance.
Bend: adjusting and controlling the fore and aft bend or
curvature of the mast to change mainsail shape.
Weather helm: the rudder helm at a positive angle to
the boat's heading. Some sailmakers recommend 3 to 5
degrees of weather helm when sailing upwind and zero
when reaching.
Headstay sag: the distance the forestay is pulled aft by
sheet tension measured from a straight line between the
tack and genoa head fitting.
MAINTENANCE
PRODUCTS
TRACK LUBRICANT
To reduce friction and prevent mainsail bolt ropes, slides
or slugs and travellers from binding, you should apply a
quality Teflon grease or specially formulated lubricant.
Fastrac is a new product that is not soluble in fresh- or salt-
water and works in a wide range of temperatures. To use,
first thoroughly clean the slugs, traveller, etc. and apply a
thin film of lubricant to the edges. To clean a mast that is
already stepped, have your sailmaker make a small
square plug of sailcloth dressed with an upper and lower
crinkle and luff tape or slug that matches your mast.
Attach this plug to the main halyard and a downhaul and
hoist and lower it, repeating several times to clean the
RIG
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groove. Wipe the bolt rope or slug clean, apply a gen-
erous coating of lubricant, and run it up the mast.
Repeat three or four times, applying a fresh coat of
lubricant
between hoists.
This should be
repeated two
or three times a
season,
depending on
use. We cannot verify how well it works, but is was
tested by major sail lofts in the U.S. and received high
marks. A 14 ml (1/2-oz) tube sells for $8.95.
RIGGING TAPE
With mast tuning completed, you should now wrap all
exposed split pins, spreader ends, turnbuckles and tog-
gles with rigging tape. This not only prevents tearing
and damaging sails, canvas or catching a line but
saves your feet and hands from injury. One of the best
rigging tapes available is Mariner's Choice ($10.50
for 5 m/15'). This unique tape contains no adhesive.
When applied under tension it bonds to itself. To use,
unroll about
7.6 cm (3")
of tape,
hold it
against the
turnbuckle
and stretch
the tape
until the
width is
reduced by
half. Spiral
wrap the
tape while
holding the
end. To remove, simply cut off with a knife or scissors.
It leaves no adhesive residue and won't deteriorate in
sunlight. The tape requires no surface preparation and
even works under water. Available in black or white
and in 10 cm (4") width for mast boots, it can also be
used for electrical applications to bundle, join or repair
wires and connections.
Sources of Additional Information
Books
Sailing Rigs and Spars by Matthew Sheahan, 160
pages, $31.95
Videos
Inspecting Your Rig, 85 min. Bennett Marine Video,
$41.95
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R
IGGING
HYDROFOILS
Foils offer a quick fix
that improves handling,
acceleration and
planing on most boats.
Our 22-foot walkaround cuddy cabin
has a modified deep-V hull that runs
smooth, tracks straight and handles
like a trooper in rough water.
Powered by a 150-hp outboard
mounted on an offset bracket, it per-
forms well but is slow to get on plane
and would fall off plane easily at
lower running speeds, especially
when loaded with all our weekend
camping and fishing gear. When
planing, the bow lifted high in the air
blocking visibility. Overall, perfor-
mance was exceptional at high
speeds, except in tight turns where
the propeller would ventilate. Such
anomalies may seem minor to some
owners but for us it was important we
find a solution.
A hydrofoil stabilizer solves some
common performance problems such
as poor planing, engine cavitation in
rough water or when cornering at
high speeds, propeller slippage at
high speeds, faster hole shots and
porpoising at low speeds. Designed
to lift and hold the stern on plane
(lower the bow) and stabilize the
boat, a foil forces the boat to plane
faster and keeps it on plane at lower
speeds. Better planing helps light-
weight runabouts such as inflatables
and utilities that need weight moved
forward to plane. Hydrofoils also ben-
efit larger fishing boats and cruisers
that are sluggish out of the hole; get-
ting on plane faster reduces bow rise
and increases visibility. For pontoon
boats a foil eliminates cavitation and
propeller ventilation. Since there is
less drag and the boat planes faster,
fuel consumption decreases.
Independent tests record fuel savings
of 10% to 40%, depending on how
the boat is used.
Hydrofoils function much like an
aircraft wing. The top surface is
longer than the bottom, forcing the
water flow under the foil. High pres-
sure beneath the foil pushes up to fill
the vacuum, creating lift, keeping the
bow down and stern high. This is
accomplished without increasing drag
or sacrificing top-end speed. The foil's
wide wing span stabilizes a boat in
turns. Side slippage and prop cavita-
tion are eliminated by
keeping the stern out of
the water and the boat
on plane.
These winged
wonders come in a
variety of designs and
brand names: Doel-Fin,
Hydro-Stabilizer,
Nordic, Sting Ray and
others. Made of heavy
duty, injection-molded
plastic, hydrofoils
attach to the engine's
cavitation plate. Most brands fit any
manufacturer's outboard motor or
stern drive from 1-1/2 hp to 300 hp
on single or twin installations.
Working with another boating
magazine, we installed a Doel-Fin
hydrofoil. The boat was then tested
by Mark Rotharmel, a 10-time North
American powerboat racing champi-
on and former Formula One racer.
With the foil attached, time to plane
and acceleration improved slightly.
The effects of the foil were more
noticeable at lower throttle settings.
With less bow rise on take off, visibili-
ty was markedly improved. We could
now easily maintain a plane with less
speed and a lower rpm. Running at
speed, the foil also decreased the run-
ning angle of the boat to the water;
the bow dropped while the stern
remained high. Engine rpm dropped
by about 300, reducing fuel con-
sumption. The foil also stopped cavi-
tation when cornering. There was no
increase in top-end speed and no
noticeable drag.
Hydrofoil stabilizers can improve
handling of most boats. Overall con-
trol varies depending on hull shape
and engine horsepower. With a sell-
ing price of $100 or less, foils are an
affordable option for any owner look-
ing to improve boat performance.
INSTALLATION
Attaching a hydrofoil stabilizer to an
outboard or stern drive unit is easy
and takes about 30 minutes. All you
need is a drill and bits, screwdriver
and socket set or adjustable wrench.
Depending on the model, the hydro-
foil is either sandwiched between the
aluminum cavitation plate or mounted
on top of the plate. Following the
manufacturer's instructions, line up the
foil with the back edge of the plate.
Using the foil as a template, drill
through the plate. Insert a bolt to hold
the foil in place and drill a hole on
the opposite side. Hold the foil sta-
tionary with the bolts and drill the
POWERBOAT
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
remaining holes. Stainless steel bolts
(provided) are inserted from the bot-
tom up with washers and nuts on
top. Aluminum is fairly easy to drill; if
your drills are sharp, pilot holes are
not required. On boats without
power trim, reposition the manual
pin setting on the engine slightly
higher as the foil holds the bow
down.
You should be aware that
installing any hydrofoil may void the
engine manufacturer's warranty.
There is the possibility of damaging
the lower unit should you hit a sub-
merged object. Under normal use
you shouldn't have any problems.
We've been running our boat for
three years without any noticeable
damage.
POWER TRIM
When used correctly, power trim
improves acceleration, reduces steer-
ing loads and increases planing
speeds, top-end performance and
fuel economy.
On most small-boat engine
controls, the power trim button is
located on the throttle control and
easily operated in combination with
the throttle. To trim in (or Bow
Down) tilts the top of the engine
away from the boat and moves the
propeller closer to the transom.
When you trim out (or Bow Up), the
engine moves away from the tran-
som and lifts the bow.
To plane a boat, begin with
the boat fully trimmed in and the
engine idling or running slow. This
forces the bow down, the stern up
and the boat planes quicker. Once
the boat is on plane, slowly trim out
and the bow rises. This reduces fric-
tion between the hull and the water,
and the boat instantly gains speed.
As speed increases, continue trim-
ming until steering response is light
and the boat is riding smooth and
high. At wide-open-throttle, the
engine should run in the middle of
the RPM range as recommended in
your owner's manual. If trimmed
out too far, the propeller may venti-
late. In extreme cases, the boat
may porpoise: the bow of the boat
pounds hard on the water, rising
and falling in a rhythmical motion.
Conversely, when the drive unit is
trimmed in too far, fuel economy
decreases, top speed drops and the
boat may oversteer or loose stabil-
ity.
When throttling down, trim
in all the way. This brings the bow
down, slows the boat and reduces
strain on the engine and transom.
When cornering at speed, you
should also trim the motor in to
increase stability and prevent cavi-
tation. Experiment this summer with
different trim positions to determine
your boat's optimum performance
settings under a variety of load and
water conditions.
R
IGGING
POWERBOAT
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Keeping
Keeping
up
TEAK
exterior
Teak is one of the "perfect" woods. Oils inherent in this
tropical wood help preserve it from the sun, salt and
weathering. When left to season naturally, teak turns
grey, gets dirty from airborne-pollutants, then mildews,
but it doesn't rot.
Caring for teak demands a lot of effort and
dedication. Some boat owners prefer to let it weather
naturally. This is not a permanent solution, for eventually
the teak dries out, checks and splits, especially around
bung holes. When a more "yachty" finish is preferred,
badly neglected teak handrails, hatch trim, railcaps and
decks are easily and quickly restored to near-original
condition. If you want your teak to last and look good,
you have two choices of treatment: oil or varnish.
TO OIL OR VARNISH?
Teak oils and clear coatings or varnishes contain oils
that replace the wood's natural oils lost during clean-
ing and bleaching (more on this later). Many products
also contain mildewcides and ultraviolet (UV) inhibitors
that withstand the damaging effects of the sun's rays
for many months. What makes the two coatings dis-
tinctively different is application, ease of maintenance
and finished appearance. Teak oils are absorbed into
the wood, while successive coats of varnish are lay-
ered over the surface, providing a hard, thick, protec-
tive covering. Oil will not protect teak as well as a
well-maintained clear coating, but it's a lot more user-
friendly to apply and maintain. The greatest benefit of
using oil is time. A season's worth of oil is easily
applied in an afternoon. When the coating is in good
condition, just scruff up the surface with a 3M Scotch-
Brite pad and recoat. Some cleaning agents and oils
require sanding prior to coating but, generally, this is only
necessary when the surface has deteriorated and the teak
begun to discolor. When teak begins to wear, all that's
needed to restore the surface to like-new condition is a
quick cleaning followed by sanding and overcoating.
To obtain similar protection with varnish requires
a buildup of a minimum of five coats with sanding and
curing for at least one day between each coat. Once
base coats are applied, however, varnished teak is actu-
ally far less labor intensive than oil provided the coat-
ing is methodically maintained. Varnish requires a mainte-
nance coat once or twice a season to maintain its gloss.
But neglect varnish and it quickly sours. Nick or gouge a
varnished surface and it must be repaired immediately,
otherwise water leaches into the wood underneath and
turns it black. Blistered or peeled varnish must be stripped
off, sanded and multiple base coats reapplied. Varnished
surfaces must also be cleaned regularly with a chamois or
sponge to remove salt crystals, grime and pollutants that
may pit the surface.
WOOD PREPARATION
Blackened, previously oiled or mildewed teak must first be
cleaned with a cleaner formulated for teak, then washed
and sanded to remove the raised grain. The myriad teak
cleaners on the market are divided into detergents,
bleaches and alkaline caustics with acid neutralizers.
Some are one-step cleaners. Others, such as Boat Armor's
Unique Teak Cleaner, are a two-part system. Cleaners
remove dirt, mildew stains, black algae and oils and
restore teak to its original golden color. An optional
brightener bleaches the wood and gives a brighter, more
uniform color.
All cleaners are applied by first wetting the
wood, spreading the cleaner and scrubbing. For stubborn
stains, rub the surface with a stainless steel scrub pad,
such as Boat Life Scrub-All or Star brite Magic Scrub.
Similar to a pot scrubber, except made of continuous fila-
ment stainless steel, these pads are guaranteed never to
corrode or wear out. Use these pads with care. Wet teak
is extremely soft and if scrubbed vigorously wears away
the soft top grain of the wood, leaving shallow ridges in
the teak. Another alternative to stainless scrubs is to use a
3M Scotch-Brite pad. When using any abrasive, always
scrub with the grain or you'll create severe cross-grain
scratches. After scrubbing, let the wood dry, then sand
uneven surfaces with 220-grit paper and rinse again.
Always thoroughly rinse the wood after using cleaners
and wear protective clothing and rubber gloves.
Some cleaners are extremely harsh; Iosso Teak
Cleaner is an example of a newer user-friendly cleaner. A
one-step, biodegradable, non-toxic powder, it does not
contain chlorine, bleach or acids. It's powerful stuff for not
only does it clean teak, it apparently also removes varnish
and old stain, yet will not harm gelcoat and other finishes
or fabrics. After mixing with water, brush the solution on
the wood then leave to soak for about 10 minutes, reap-
plying as needed to keep the surface wet. Rinse the
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
Products for
teak care
include a
broad
selection of
cleaners,
brighteners
and oils.
wood, then let dry for at least 24 hours before oiling or
varnishing. A 473 ml (16 US oz) jar makes about 15
litres (4 US gallons) and costs $15.50.
In preparation for oiling or varnishing, let the
teak dry after cleaning, then sand lightly (if necessary)
with a medium-grit paper. Avoid using a fine-grit sand-
paper as it fills the teak pores with sanding residue and
the coating won't soak into the teak. After sanding, vac-
uum the dust residue, then carefully wipe the surface
with clean, lint-free rags. A brush will pick up any sand-
ing residue hiding in the nooks and crannies. Protect sur-
rounding gelcoat from accidental spills with plastic held
in place with a solvent-resistant tape such as 3M
Masking Tape #226. Oil will permanently stain gelcoat;
remove any spills immediately with a rag dampened
with mineral spirits or Interlux Fiberglass Paintoff or other
paint remover recommended for gelcoat. Some teak
cleaners will also remove spilled oil. Remove previously
varnished surfaces either by sanding or using a chemi-
cal stripper that's safe for use on gelcoat.
OILY SOLUTIONS
Chandlery shelves are crowded with a broad assortment
of teak oils. More popular brands are Cetol Marine,
Daly's, Perma-Teak, Teak-Brite and Star brite Teak Oil. A
descrip-tion of each of these products follows. (Another
top-rated oil is Armada, a fairly new teak finish manufac-
tured in Concord, Ontario, that is readily available in the
U.S. but not yet in Canada.) Because of the inherent
nature of teak oils, some products discolor the wood and
may be offen-sive. When applying a new coating, manu-
facturers recom-mend doing a test patch first, applying
two or three coats on a scrap of teak.
Cetol Marine is one finish that gives a slightly
orange hue to the wood. Based on Akzo Sikkens exterior
house products, Cetol is an oil alkyd resin containing ultra-
violet inhibitors. A favored oil for many boat owners, Cetol
requires minimal prepping before oiling. Surface prepara-
tion for new wood requires wiping with an acetone-dipped
rag to remove oils, followed by a sanding with 120-grit
paper. For weathered or previously oiled teak, use teak
cleaner to remove dirt and oil, then sand. Application
instructions suggest using a long-hair bristle brush, but
many users get good results with a foam brush or sponge.
Apply three coats at 24 hour intervals without sanding
between coats. For a smoother finish, you can sand after
the third coat and apply another. Cetol is now offered in a
gloss finish that goes directly over the second coat of the
original finish; two coats are recommended. Maintaining
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
TEAK
exterior
either of the Cetol finishes requires little effort. If the wood
is in good condition, just clean the surface with a mild
detergent, scrub with a Scotch-Brite-type pad, rinse and let
dry. The gloss finish needs a light sanding with 220- to
320-grit paper prior to overcoating. Depending on use
and environmental conditions, a once-a-year cleaning fol-
lowed by a single touch-up coat is all that's needed to
keep teak in near-original condition. A 946 ml (1 US
quart) can sells for $23.95 and $6 more for the gloss;
3.78 litres (1 US gallon) is $74.95.
Star brite's teak system includes a cleaner,
brightener and choice of oils. The acid-free cleaner does
not raise the wood grain so no sanding is needed. Teak
Brightener is the second step in restoring badly weathered
teak. Rubbed into the wood, it brightens teak without
scrubbing. Star brite's petroleum-based Teak Oil contains
ultraviolet absorbers and dries quickly. The three-compo-
nent package sells for less than $35. The more advanced
Tropical line of teak oils and sealers comes in two colors
and requires only one coat for year-round protection.
BoatLife's Teak Brite three-component teak
care system includes a one-step cleaner, brightener and
oil. The wood is first prepped with the powdered cleaner,
then oiled. As the cleaner does not raise the grain, no
sanding is needed after cleaning. Teak Brite oil is a mix-
ture of oils, resins and paraffin oil. The first coat is applied
after the teak has dried for 24 hours. Three coats are rec-
ommended, allowing a drying time of two hours between
coats. Mid-season cleaning with the acid-based brightener
followed by a new top coat is all that's needed to restore
the finish.
Daly's SeaFin is a single-part system used by
many boatbuilders for teak decks or interior floors. Pro-
duced in the U.S. Northwest, SeaFin is a petroleum-
based product containing a UV inhibitor. Initial
application is more laborious than most oils, but the long-
term results are worth the effort. When correctly applied,
you will never need to scrape or strip again. Unlike other
oils, applying SeaFin involves sanding the oil into the
wood. It sounds messy, but in reality is quite easy. First
sand bare teak with no finer than100-grit paper. Using a
roller or brush, coat a small section at one time. Leave for
15 minutes, wet sand with 400 grit, leave for 15 minutes
then wipe up with cheesecloth. Continue coating then
sanding until all teak is covered. Let dry for 24 hours.
Reapply, using the same time frequency, wet sanding
with 600-grit paper, until you have a buildup of four or
five coats. Wet sanding heats the oil so it penetrates
better and creates a very fine grit that when rubbed into
the pores of the wood, forms a chemical bond. A
modified oil, SeaFin dries to a hard, smooth finish that
won't chip, peel or blister. Upkeep is minimal. To refinish,
simply wipe on, leave for 15minutes, wet sand, then
wipe up without letting cure. The manufacturer
recommends a maintenance coat spring and fall. At $14
for 473 ml (1 US pint) or $21 for 946 ml (1 US quart)
it's also very economical. For large deck jobs, 3.78 litres
(1 US gallon) sells for $60.
Developed for the harsh Florida climate,
Perma-Teak is a water-based acrylic polymer with UV
filters. Preparation of bare or previously oiled teak
involves washing with a 3 to 1 solution of chlorine
bleach and water and scrubbing with a stainless steel or
Scotch-Brite-type pad. For previously oiled surfaces sand
with 80-grit paper before washing. The manufacturer
recommends applying One-Step-Prep, a chemical
cleaner and brightener, after washing. A thin coating of
Perma-Teak is then applied to moist teak, "wet on wet,"
using a foam brush. When the first coat is dry to touch,
about 1/2 hour, apply a second thin coat. It goes on
milky but dries to a clear finish in about one hour at 23
C (75 F). Water-soluble, any spills on gelcoat, painted
surfaces or seam compounds are wiped clean with a
wet cloth. Like many oils, Perma-Teak should not be
applied in direct sunlight. If you cannot avoid the sun,
cover the coated area with plastic wrap to prevent the
oil from evaporating. Available in four tones Gold,
Classic Dark, Mahogany and Clear gloss the Gold
gives the teak a slight yellowish tint. Applied once a sea-
son, a quick cleaning with bleach and water and a light
scrubbing is all that's required between coats. Perma-
Teak comes in a 473 ml (1 US pint) container for
$25.50 or a 946 ml (1 US quart) for $37.95. A 946 ml
container of One-Step-Prep costs $17.75.
VARNISHING TEAK-NIQUES
To oil is human, to varnish divine, or so it would seem
to many "purists" who would rather quit than switch.
But because teak is an oily wood, varnishing becomes
more of a challenge. The natural oils in teak that help
preserve it can cause problems during and after var-
nishing if the surface is not prepared correctly. Problems
such as slow drying, discoloring, blistering and peeling
are not uncommon. (Not all varnishes are recom-
mended for use on teak; check the label before buy-
ing.)
Sand bare wood smooth with 80- to 120-grit
paper, then wipe with the recommended thinner to
remove surface oil. To varnish teak that was previously
oiled, apply a chemical cleaner to remove the oil. To
increase penetration of the varnish into the wood, thin
the first coat of varnish up to 40% by volume with the
specified brushing liquid. This should seal the wood
and provide a foundation for successive coats. Let dry
overnight then lightly sand the surface with 220-grit
paper. Remove sanding residue with cheesecloth or a
lint-free rag, damp-ened with brushing liquid. Apply
additional coats of full-strength varnish, letting dry
overnight and sanding between coats. If time permits,
plan to apply seven to nine coats of varnish on bare
teak. The more coats, the more long-lasting the finish. A
twice-annual recoating of varnish is all that's needed to
keep teak looking shipshape.
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
sion qualities, silicone compounds
function as sealants rather than adhe-
sives. Silicone is used in formed-in-
place gasket applications where the
compound is held in place with fas-
teners, such as bedding cleats and
other deck hardware that may need
periodic replacement. It's also used
for mounting plastic fittings that would
react with other sealants or for sealing
portlights and hatches or caulking
around the shower or sink in the
head. The single greatest advantage
of using silicone is its fast cure time.
Silicones are tack-free in about 30
minutes and fully cured in 24 hours.
The biggest drawback of silicone is it
cannot be sanded or painted once
cured. (The exception is BoatLife
Sandable Silicone that is one of the
few sandable silicones suitable for
teak decks.) Where painting is neces-
sary, paint all areas before using as
any sealant residue will prevent paint-
ing of the surface later on. Because of
silicone's fast cure time, all tooling
and clean up of ragged edges must
be done immediately after applica-
tion.
Polysulfide-based sealants dou-
ble as both sealing and bonding com-
pound. They provide a flexible, water-
tight seal along with a strong adhe-
sive bond for bedding hardware such
as portholes, windshields, keel plates,
cleats, mast plates, primed teak deck
seams, instruments any hardware
that may require removal later.
Polysulfides are used above and
below the waterline and bond
extremely well to wood, fiberglass,
metal and some plastics, such as
Delrin, nylon or Marelon, but never to
PVC, Plexiglas, Lexan or ABS.
Polysulfides are good compounds for
bedding teak decks and fittings
ounting
DECK
hardware
Nothing contributes more to cabin dis-
comfort than leaking deck fittings. As
a boat ages, vibration causes fittings
to loosen, especially in areas of high
stress: coamings, hull-to-deck joints,
chain plates, portholes, handrails,
stanchion bases, cleats, sheet stop-
pers, mast steps and other hardware
that penetrate the deck or hull. Im-
properly bedded thru-bolted hard-
ware often leaks through the fastener
holes. If the deck is made of plywood
or cored with balsa, the layers be-
come spongy and eventually delami-
nate. To prevent deterioration of the
deck material, leaky cleats, stanchions
and other hardware should be rebed-
ded as soon as possible.
If you suspect a leak, pinpointing
the source may be difficult. Hose
down the deck or wait for a heavy
rain and from inside the cabin look for
telltale water droplets. Sometimes
leaks are not as obvious. If you can't
find the source, go on deck and exam-
ine the sealant around deck fittings.
With maturity, sealant dries or cracks
causing water to migrate into the
cabin. Once you've located the source
of the leak, determine the best way to
correct the problem. In some situa-
tions, all that's needed is to scrape
away the old sealant and add new
material. Sometimes repairing the leak
requires complete removal of the fitting
and rebedding with new sealant.
THE RIGHT SEALANT
FOR THE JOB
A sealant forms a watertight gasket
between a fitting and mounting sur-
face, preventing water from seeping
under the fitting. Also known as caulk-
ing or bedding compounds, sealants
formulated for marine use are divided
into three general types: silicones,
polysulfides and polyurethanes. Each
kind is designed for a specific task,
either sealing, bedding or bonding.
The key to mounting hardware suc-
cessfully is to select the right sealant
for the task at hand. A sealant com-
pound seals surfaces from water and
moisture penetration and provides a
foundation or "bed" for mounting
hardware. Adhesive sealants are gen-
erally polyurethane-based and bond
and seal hardware in one applica-
tion. While silicone is generally only
used as a sealant, many polysulfides
and polyurethanes are used both as a
sealant and an adhesive. Marine
adhesive sealants are moisture-cure
compounds that contain anti-mildew
agents and ultraviolet filters to prevent
yellowing. Sealants come in four col-
ors: white is used for many topside
applications; clear for concealment;
mahogany for brightwork; brown and
black for hulls; black for teak decks.
Most sealants bond to fiberglass,
wood, metal, glass and themselves.
Check the label before using as some
products are not compatible with cer-
tain materials.
Of the three sealant types, sili-
cone is the most common. It adheres
well to fiberglass, wood, metal and
some plastics. Because of poor adhe-
When installing extra
cleats, the general rule of
thumb for determining size is 2.54
cm (1") of cleat length for every 3
mm (1/8") of line diameter.
TOOLS
Caulking and gun
Sharp knife
Putty knife, screwdriver
Scraper
Masking Tape
Clean dry rags
Filleting stick or plastic
spoon
Solvent
T
I
P
S
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
around fuel systems and refrigeration
equipment as they are resistant to
teak cleaners, oil, gasoline and diesel
fuels. Cure times vary. Most products
are generally tack-free in 1 to 3 days
depending on quantity applied, tem-
perature and humidity. Fully cured
polysulfides are sandable and
paintable with no special priming
required.
Polyurethane sealants contain a
strong adhesive that cures to an ex-
tremely tough but flexible seal. They
are used to permanently seal and
bond joints above and below the
waterline that are subject to struc-
tural movement, such as hull-to-deck
joints, ballast keels, bulkheads, hatch
frames to deck, radar arches, swim
platforms and transoms. Once a
polyurethane sealant fully cures,
adhesion is virtually permanent and
removal requires sliding an Exacto
knife to separate the joined surfaces
(heating the blade helps speed the
process); in extremely stubborn
cases, a chisel and hammer works
well. For this reason, never use
polyurethanes on seams or to bed
hardware that will need periodic
replacement, such
as thru-hulls, trans-
ducers or winches.
Polyurethanes
should also never
be used to bed
plastic fittings,
teak decks or fuel
fittings as teak
cleaners and fuel
spills soften some
compounds.
Check the label
and test a small
area for both com-
patibility and resis-
tance. Tack-free in
6 to 48 hours, cur-
ing times vary
from 3 to 14
days, depending
on temperature
and humidity. For
a faster cure, try
Bostik 920 FS or
Sikaflex-241 that
cure in less than
36 hours at 22 C
(72 F).
Polyurethanes are
sandable after curing and can be painted.
There are also some new hybrid compounds that
combine the best qualities of the three above varieties.
BoatLife's LifeSeal, for example, combines the adhesive
benefits of polysulfide with the working properties of a
marine silicone. It adheres well to all surfaces including
Lexan and ABS and can be removed without damaging
gelcoat. Another specialized product is Davis Slick Seam,
a fast-curing compound intended for seams of wooden
boats that adheres to wet, dry or oil-stained surfaces and
is ready for painting in half an hour.
BEDDING HARDWARE
To stop leaks when time is limited, a temporary stopgap is
to run a bead of sealant around the perimeter of the fit-
ting. A more thorough job requires removal of the hard-
ware and rebedding with new sealant.
To access deck hardware on fiberglass boats, you'll
need to remove the overhead liner first and any wood
backing plates. Removal of the old hardware may prove
challenging, especially if the bolts are corroded. Try a
penetrating oil to remove seized bolts and if that fails, cut
the bolts with a hacksaw. If the screw head strips, drill
and tap, screw another fastener in the hole and try again.
All surfaces must be clean, dry and free of dust,
grease or any residual sealant. Use a sharp chisel, sand-
paper, file, wire brush or solvent to remove any dirt, salt,
corrosion, oxidation and paint from fitting, fasteners and
mounting surface. Replace any corroded fasteners. When
bedding hardware on a painted surface, either scrape the
paint off the contact area or use a caulking specially for-
mulated for painted surfaces. Cer-tain surfaces, such as
Lexan, ABS and other plastics, may require additional
preparation. No primer is usually necessary, except on
oily woods such as teak.
Dry fit the hardware and fasteners in place without
bedding compound and using a pencil, trace around the
fitting. Drill new fastening holes if necessary. Remove
and clean both mating surfaces and fasteners with a
quick drying solvent (acetone, for example), keeping
excess solvent away from paint and plastic surfaces. To
facilitate clean-up, mask off the area using solvent-resis-
tant tape. Allow an extra 3 mm (1/8") around the fitting
when taping.
Cut the nozzle of the caulking tube or cartridge at a
30-degree angle and apply a generous bead of sealant
approximately 6 mm (1/4") in from the penciled edge.
Where possible, it's best to insert the fasteners in the fit-
ting first, coating both surfaces, under each bolt head
and threaded end with sealant, then install the fitting.
Installing the fasteners after positioning the fitting is not
only messier but can cause voids in the sealing com-
pound and potential leakage through the fastener holes.
Always install thru-deck fittings with oversize washers or
backing plate to distribute the load. On thru-bolted instal-
lations, tighten fasteners with a socket or wrench on the
nuts rather than turning the bolt or machine screw. The
threading action pushes the sealant out of the hole; tight-
ening the nut compresses the sealant. Tighten down each
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
bolt or screw equally in stages until
there is only a slight gap, about 3
mm (1/8") between the mating sur-
faces. Remove any excess sealant
that has squeezed out from the joint
using a finger wrapped in cloth
moistened with mineral spirits or
other safe solvent. The bottom of a
plastic spoon or a fillet stick, damp-
ened with solvent and run over the
seam, gives a smooth, uniform
edge. The concave edge also
encourages water runoff. Scrape up
any excess material pushed to the
sides with a 2.54 cm (1") putty
knife, then clean with a solvent that
will not damage the gelcoat or
paint.
Since polysulfides and polyure-
thanes take anywhere from one
hour to several days to fully cure,
you have plenty of time to finish the
job. Remove the tape (if used),
before the sealant cures, pulling it
slowly at a 90-degree angle to the
seam. Wait for the sealant to fully
cure then take up about 6 mm
(1/4") to 12 mm (1/2") turn on the
bolt or screw to hold the surfaces
together. This will compress the
sealant material and ensure a
watertight seal. Use a knife to trim
any cured silicone caulking, fol-
lowed by a file to remove the
residue. Remove polysulfide and
polyurethane sealant material with
sandpaper. Seal the tube or car-
tridge with a nail, screw or Marrette
plug
Many thanks to Jeff Tiger of Star brite and
3M Canada for assistance in compiling the
information on marine sealants.
PRIOR PAGE NEXT PAGE CONTENTS
DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628
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COMPARISON CHART
of
MARINE SEALANTS
TASK
Structural bonding
Repairing or bonding to fiberglass
Bonding keels, motor mounts
Bedding wood trim
Bedding hardware above waterline
Bedding hardware below waterline
Permanent bedding of hardware
Bedding/sealing hatches, vents, portholes
Bedding plastics
Bedding ABS, Plexiglas, Lexan (check)
Gasketing exhaust systems
Sealing refrigeration systems
Electrical insulation
Sealing/bedding instruments
Sealing sink, shower
Sealing windshields
Replacing rivets, mechanical fasteners
Sandable and paintable
Sealing teak decks
Caulking wood seams
Polyurethane
Polysulfide
Silicone
Elastomeric
Cure time (maximum days) - 7 3 - 2 2 4 - 3 - - 5 5 10 7 4 1 1 1 - 2 3
Note: This chart excludes products developed after July 1995
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DIY boat owner 2001 1-888-658-2628