Mountaineering Training (Article)

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Preparation for Alpine Ascents Mountaineering School Denali Prep Course
Mountain Climbing is a serious undertaking. Just because you exercise regularly (4-6 times per week)
does not mean you have the conditioning needed to climb a 10,000 foot or higher mountain. Plenty of
people who can run a marathon fail to summit mountains without the proper training. Pure
cardiovascular fitness is simply not enough. You need to be able to ascend 9-10,000 feet with substantial
weight on your back. Expect to carry at least a 40-50 pound pack or more to get to base camp over 4,500
feet of gain. The ascent to the summit, comparable elevation gain to the approach, involves carrying a
pack weight of about half that of your approach pack.
Prioritize your training efforts in the following way, assuming that you are in good health and injuryfree:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Climbing conditioning pack-loaded uphill hiking, walking, and stair climbing

Strength training for the lower and upper body
Cardiovascular training, including both aerobic and anaerobic workouts without pack weight
Flexibility training
Most people will need to train specifically for their course for at least 4-6 months. During your training,
you will need to progressively ramp up your pack weight, time, distance and elevation gain (at roughly
10% per week) to safely and effectively build your climbing-specific conditioning. Trying to rush this
will increase the risk of experiencing some sort of training injury and not being ready for the climb.
Below are more details of how to incorporate these four priorities into your program.
Climbing conditioning - Hike steep outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight with each
outing until you are at your target climb pack weight. If you live where it is relatively flat, go up and
down stairs or train on an inclined treadmill or stairmaster. Use whatever varied surface terrain (i.e.
gravel beds, sand dunes, river banks) you have access to. A reasonable goal would be to ascend 3,500
feet carrying an average pack of 50 pounds in a 2-3 hour period, or roughly 1,250 vertical feet in an
hour. A good training option for pack weight is to carry water in gallon containers or collapsible jugs, so
you can dump water at the top as needed, to lighten the load for the descent.
One training technique that is useful for altitude climbing is to include higher intensity interval training
in your weekly program. To do this, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily
for several minutes. Push as hard as you can going up, then recover coming down, and repeat for
anywhere from 20-45 minutes depending on how close to your climb you are. Add weight to your pack
on a regular basis, no more than 10% per week, until you can carry your target climb pack weight the
entire time.
In early season, you might start with a hike that gains up to 1500-2000 elevation over 6 miles round trip
and carry a 15-20# pack; each hike try adding 2-3 pounds until you are comfortable with a 40# pack,
then begin increasing the total elevation gain and mileage. When you can gain 3,500 feet with a 40#
pack, start decreasing rest breaks and increasing speed, and once you reach your target time, add the
final weight until you can carry your target climb pack weight for the desired elevation gain and
mileage.
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Strength conditioning - Training with free weights, bands, a backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym
machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals),
upper back and shoulders, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you
with such tasks as carrying a heavy pack, using trekking poles and ice axes effectively. The calves, hips,
quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending glacier, ice, and rock routes,
and strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips.
Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, climbing-specific strength that will
help you most in the mountains. Free weight-training requires that you balance the weights as you would
your own body, weighted with a pack, in three-dimensional space. When starting any strength
conditioning program, complete two full-body strength workouts a week for 30-45 minutes each,
focusing on compound exercises such as squats, lunges, step-ups, dips, pull-ups, rows, dead lifts, bench
presses, pushups, and overhead presses.
In the beginning phase of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts; to
that end, keep the weight light enough to concentrate on good form and complete 2 sets of each exercise
for 8-10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength (generally lower
reps 5-8 with heavier weight). 4-6 weeks before your climb, shift your training to focus on strength
endurance (higher reps 10-15 with light weight) to turn the newly gained strength into greater strength
endurance. Each training phase should vary the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and
rest intervals. Regardless of training phase, always be sure you maintain proper form in order to prevent
injury or strain.
Cardiovascular conditioning Include spinal-loading aerobic training options such as jogging,
walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or stepmill training, trail running, working on an
elliptical machine, walking up and down hills, or participating in step aerobic classes. While biking,
rowing and swimming are aerobic options for the earliest stages of training, be sure as you get closer to
your climb that you include activities suggested above that load the spine and legs the same way that
hiking will.
When first beginning a cardiovascular training program, begin with three workouts (i.e. Monday,
Wednesday and Friday) of 30 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and build to 4-5
aerobic sessions of sustained effort for at least 45-60 minutes (taking perhaps Wednesday and Sunday as
days off, for example.) Be sure to include a 5-10 minute gentle warm-up before working at your target
heart rate for the day (for most workouts, choose a level of exertion that allows you to connect a few
words together in a phrase, but leaves you feeling comfortably tired at the end of the workout), and cool
down with 5-10 minutes of appropriate stretching of the muscles you use most in your activity,
including lower back, calves, hamstrings, hips and quadriceps.
Flexibility conditioning Be sure to include at least 5-10 minutes of targeted stretching following
every workout, specifically for the hamstrings, glutes, hips, calves, lower back and quadriceps. If you
have any areas of concern early season, add emphasis to making sure you have normal range of motion
about all your joints. This will become even more important as you add weight and distance to your
conditioners.
Training information provided by www.BodyResults.com

Putting it all together -- Roughly a month before your climb or course, you should be at the
conditioning level where you are comfortable hiking on consecutive weekend days, what is referred to
as Back-to-Back training. This involves hiking with your target climb pack weight (40-50#) on the first
day for at least 4,000-5,000
gain, and a somewhat lighter
Day
Climbing Specific
Strength
Cardio
Flexibility
pack for greater mileage on the
Full body, 12- 30 min. recovery
second day to simulate your
15 reps / set, level (<65% Max 10-15 min. at
approach and summit days of
HR)
the end
45 min.
your climb. This will not only Mon
Hills, Stairs or
be helpful physically but also
inclined machine 45prepare you psychologically
60 min., 40-50lb
for the challenge of repeat
high-effort days without any
pack, Interval level
recovery days in between. A
(short bursts >85%
10-15 min. at
sample week of training a Tue Max HR)
the end
month prior to your climb
75 min. no pack
might look like the chart above,
distance level (65- 10-15 min. at
in an effort to help you build as
Wed
75% Max HR)
the end
much stamina as possible.
Be sure to include at least one
recovery day per week and
listen closely to your body.
Take the final week to taper or
gradually reduce intensity and
volume of training so that by
the time you leave for your
climb you are well rested and
physically and psychologically
up to the challenge.
Full body, 8-10 45 min. no pack

reps / set, 45 tempo level (75- 10-15 min. at
85% Max HR)
the end
min.
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun
Hike 8-10 miles, 4050lb pack, gain 45,000 feet

Hike 8-10 miles, 2025lb pack, gain 45,000 feet
As needed
to prevent
stiffness
As needed
to prevent
stiffness
You can find additional training resources at www.BodyResults.com for the following:
Training Articles
Training Books and DVDs
Customized Online Mountaineering Specific Training
Special discounts are available for Alpine Ascents Customers at the page www.BodyResults.com/aai
This training information was provided by Wilderness Sport Conditioning experts Courtenay and
Doug Schurman of BodyResults.com. They are the exclusive conditioning resource for Alpine
Ascents. They oversee all client training, are co-authors of the book, The Outdoor Athlete (2009)
and are creators of the Train To Climb Mt Rainier DVD.

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Training information provided by www.BodyResults.

Climbing conditioning pack-loaded uphill hiking, walking, and stair climbing

Training information provided by www.BodyResults.com

Training information provided by www.BodyResults.com

Full body, 8-10 45 min. no pack

Hike 8-10 miles, 4050lb pack, gain 45,000 feet

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