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Whitewash Recipe

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Whitewash Recipes

Here are several whitewash recipes I have come across. The common thread in all
of them is that they are very basic with respect to the ingredients. The one I u
sed was indeed the easiest.
The recipe was: 50 lbs of Ivory Hydrated Lime and 10 lbs. of Morten's table salt
. Mix with clean water to a paste consistency. Apply with a stiff brush. Wet the
masonry first. After partial drying rinse some off to achieve blotchy appearanc
e.
Here is a recipe that I found on the Internet for Historic Whitewash.
Salt
Alum - Common Potash Aluminum
Molasses - Unsulfured, light brown/clear
Water
Hydrated Lime
Optional: Portland Cement Type I or Type II
Part A: Mix 12 pounds salt, 6 ounces of alum and 1 quart molasses dissolved in 1
.5 gallons of water.
Part B: Mix 50 pounds of the hydrated lime with 5 gallons of hot water. Let this
stand for 12 hours. After 12 hours mix Parts A and B together to a brushable co
nsistency.
You can add white Portland cement for more durability. But substitute only up to
10 percent of the lime you use. In this recipe you would use 5 pounds of white
cement and 45 pounds of lime.
Heres a recipe emailed to me.
Dear Tim, I thought you might be interested in the following copied from "The Oh
io Valley Farmer" dated June, 1860.
"WHITEWASH, as used on the President's house, in Washington, is made as follows:
Slack half a bushel of unslacked lime with boiling water; cover it during the p
rocess. Strain it, and add a peck of salt dissolved in warm water, three pounds
ground rice, boiled to a thin paste, put in boiling hot, half a pound Spanish wh
ite, and one pound clear glue, dissolved in warm water. Mix and let the whole st
and a few days. Keep in a kettle, and put on hot with a brush."
This was in an article titled "USEFUL AND DOMESTIC RECIPES."
Whitewash Tips
PAINTING - STAINING | REMODELING
When I looked at the specs for the addition job 11 years ago, the architect spec
ified a whitewash finish! It made sense after you went to look at the home, buil
t in the 1920's, looked like an English cottage. It looked to me as if it was pa
inted white and was simply in need of a new paint job but what I was looking at
was a magnificent whitewash finish that was about 35 years old.
No Peeling!
One of the things that amazed me was the fact that the finish on the house was n
ot peeling. There were bare brick in places and some places where you could bare
ly see through to the brick below but that was intentional. The original painter
s had varied the thickness of the whitewash and actually left it off in places t
o simulate a faded or worn look. How clever of them! My challenge was to duplica
te this old look on a new room addition. I'll cut to the chase. I did it and if
you were to drive up to the jobsite today you could not tell the difference betw
een old and new. It took a few experimental attempts, but my painters and I got
the job done.
What is in It?
Whitewash formulas and recipes are quite different. Some reference all sorts of
different ingredients but perhaps the most important one is lime (use hydrated l
ime). If you have worked with cement or brick mortar then you know why lime is a
key ingredient. Lime is a powder that does something special once mixed with wa
ter. When you add water to lime a chemical reaction begins. Millions of tiny cry
stals start to grow. These crystals allow the lime or whitewash to tenaciously g
rab onto whatever it is applied to. It is not unlike the small briars that stick
to your socks and pants when you walk through the woods.

There are other strange ingredients in different whitewash recipes. I can't tell
you what they do or how they affect the final product since the whitewash I use
d only contained hydrated lime and salt.
Installation Tips
Once you mix up whitewash you usually don't have to use it right away. In fact s
ome of the recipes want you to let it sit overnight or for a day before you appl
y it. It is also a great idea to make sure the surface you are applying it to is
clean and damp. The lime crystals will penetrate deeper into the wood or the ma
sonry if it is slightly wet.
The whitewash usually goes on blotchy. It looks like it is not covering well. Bu
t wait till the next day If you put on a normal coat as you would paint, it drie
s a brilliant white. The best thing to do is to experiment on small areas. See w
hat you think about how white it turns out.
Colorizing
Whitewash doesn't have to be white. You can make it look dirty by adding charcoa
l dust. You can make it look yellow by adding dry shake pigments. There are all
sorts of ways to color it. experiment! Mix small batches and carefully note the
concentrations. Always let it dry for several days to see the final color.
You can buy the dry pigments at businesses that sell special products to concret
e contractors, listed in the Yellow Pages under Concrete - Supplies. They also s
ell epoxies, sealers and other things that concrete contractors need.
Remember, the key to success with whitewash is experimentation. You want to try
it on a test wall or some spot to get the feel and look of it.

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