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Make a 3D Printer with a CNC router

by MrTinkerer on February 28, 2015

Table of Contents
Make a 3D Printer with a CNC router . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Intro: Make a 3D Printer with a CNC router . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 1: Internet Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 2: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 3: Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 4: Software . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Step 5: Design the Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 6: Make the base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 7: Finish the frame. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Step 8: Design the End Effector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 9: Make the End Effector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Step 10: Design the Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Step 11: Mill the Carriages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Step 12: Assemble the Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Step 13: Make End Stop Flags . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Step 14: Attach Carriage to Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Step 15: Belt and Belt Pulleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Step 16: Six Rods, Three Parallelogram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Step 17: End Stop Optics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Step 18: Route Wires from End Stop Sensors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Step 19: Update the RAMPS 1.4 Firmware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Step 20: Design a RAMPS 1.4 Holder and Display Stand (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Step 21: Make RAMPS 1.4 Holder and LCD Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Step 22: Wires, Wires Everywhere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Step 23: Test Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Step 24: The Extruder and the Hot End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/

Author:MrTinkerer Sonic Screwdriver

I like to tinker and create things. When I have time, i make stuff. The stuff could be as simple as my patent pending spoon-on-a-stick or very complex. But I
always have fun doing it.

Intro: Make a 3D Printer with a CNC router

Another possible title would be "Make a 3D machine with a 2D machine."
This Instructable is about using a CNC router and 2D designs to create a Deltabot 3D Printer.
In my research about 3D printers for hobbyist I have found a thriving community and design philosophy called RepRap. The way I understood it is that RepRap is about
creating self replicating machines.
But this leads to a "chicken or egg" scenario. In order to make a RepRap 3D printer, you need a 3D printer to make the parts. If I had a 3D printer to make parts, then
why would I need to make myself a 3D printer?
You can probably tell where this is leading... I don't have a 3D printer, nor do I have access to one or know someone who does.
What I do have is access to a Probotix Comet CNC router that's accurate to 0.0001" and about a year of self-thought knowledge of using CAM software to make "2.5D"
designs.
the pages that follow is my adventure on making a RepRap (or RepStrap) Delta 3D printer on a very small budget (about $400) based on the RAMPS 1.4 control board. I
will provide the CAM files, DXF files, and g-code files for the pieces i created.
Please note that I do not have formal training in CNC, CAD design, or anything related to the professional computer aided fabrication industry. i am self-taught, so don't
take anything I give you at face value. Please feel free to validate the information I provide through other sources and give me positive, constructive criticisms. I welcome
it and we are all here to learn and grow together.
I will also be sharing failed designs just to show how my design process works.
I hope people find this Instructable useful.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/

Image Notes
1. three aluminum rails.
2. CNC router.

Step 1: Internet Resources

Here are some of the websites that I used to get information, get parts, and get inspiration from.
RepRap.org main page
RAMPS 1.4 wiki
Marlin Firmware wiki
Delta 3D Printer Google Groups - in this group search for user Haydn Huntley and find the topic "Is anyone interested in inexpensive parts for zero backlash magnetic ball
and socket joints?" I purchased 12 socket joints from Haydn for this build.
List of Delta 3D Printers
Steve Grave's Delta Robot Kinematics - This is a deep dive into the math of Delta Robot kinematics (the math of movement). Most of this was way over my head, but if
you can wrap your mind around the math, more power to you.
Please note that I am not affiliated to any online store I have listed below. In providing their URL, it simply means I purchased something from them, so they are a known
source for materials.
OpenBuild Store - Mark at OpenBuild has given me permission to share the SketchUp files and dimensional blueprints of their OpenRail extruded aluminum parts.
SanSmart Store - RAMPS 1.4 kits.
Inventables Store - Aluminum extrusions, parts. They also sell a hobby grade CNC router, the ShapeOKO 2.
Probotix Fireball Comet CNC Router - Info on the CNC router I am using. Melissa from Probotix has given me permission to use image files from the Probotix website.
And of course Google and Youtube.

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Image Notes
1. this is where i got the dimensions

Step 2: Materials
RAMPS 1.4 kit with LCD display
Three(3) equal lengths of extruded aluminum. AKA, linear rails or T-slot rails. Size is based on your preference, availability and fabrication capabilities. My build is
using 20mm x 20mm x 750mm. If given the chance to redesign and build another, I would choose 20x40mm for increased rigidity.
Nine(9) rollers -aka, wheels - that fit into the track of the aluminum extrusion. I went with nine wheels since I have a low budget.
Half inch MDF board, approximately 4 square feet should be enough material.
ABS plastic sheets 3/16 inch thick. Approximately 2 square feet should be enough.
ABS plastic sheets 1/8 inch thick. Approximately 6 square inches.
Three(4) NEMA 17 motors
Three(3) Nema 17 motor brackets
One Hot-end assembly set up for Bowden feed
One extruder assembly set up for Bowden feed
One meter of PTFE tubing with diameter necessary for filament.
12V power supply. I purchased a 30 amp from Ebay.
Three(3) GT2 pulleys with 16 or 20 teeth (all three have to have same number of teeth).
Three(3) smooth idler pulleys
Five (5) meters of GT2 timing belt, 6mm wide. Cut into 3 equal lengths.
Three(3) limit switches or optical switches
One (1) 300-400mm carbon fiber tube with 6mm inside diameter(ID). The ID has to be 6mm. Cut into 12 equal parts.
Three(3) 500mm carbon fiber tubes with an outside diameter (OD) of 6mm. The OD has to be 6mm. Cut into six segments exactly 250mm long.
12 cylindrical neodymium magnets 6mm diameter x 10mm long
12 ball joints or steel ball bearing 10mm 12mm diameter - Remember HAYDN in Google Groups. Get this from him.
12 nylon or aluminum spacers 1/4" long and large enough for #6-32 screws to pass through.
50 T-nuts for the aluminum extrusions (we will not need that many but extra always helps)
15 right-angle corner brackets
Gorilla glue Wood glue PVC / ABS solvent glue
1/2" x 1/2" u-channel aluminum extrusion - purchased from Lowes. Cut three(3) 4" segments
1/2" x 1" L aluminum extrusion - purchased from lows. cut three(3) 1" segments
Borosilicate glass print bed surface
Three 1" x .5" x .5" aluminum or plastic blocks. Something that can be drilled and tapped.
short length (about 6") #8-32 threaded rod, cut in half.
Two #8-32 wing nuts.
Assorted screws, nuts and washers. We will need lots of metric in M3 and M5 size and standard size in #4-40 and #6-32.
Cables and wires
Zip ties and cable ties.
Handful of 4 pin and 3 pin Dupont connectors.

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Image Notes
1. 20mmx20mm aluminum extrusion (rail) from OpenBuild. I used their blueprints
to get proper dimensions.

Image Notes
1. Smooth Idler pulley
2. GT2 2mm timing belt. 6mm wide.

Image Notes
1. 20 teeth GT2 pulley. 5mm bore.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/

Image Notes
1. 12 of these are needed.

Image Notes
1. RAMPS 1.4 board from SainSmart
2. LCD from Ebay

Step 3: Tools
CNC router
Mill and various milling bits.
Set of work hold-down clamps and jigs.
Soldering iron
Drill and drill press
Band saw
Hacksaw
Screwdriver set
Heat gun
Digital calipers, very accurate ruler and dial indicator
Rafter square
Wire stripper, wire cutter, assorted pliers, forceps and tweezers.
Bubble level
inch router bit
1/8 inch router bit
1/8 inch Onsrud plastic mill bit part 63-763 - Necessary for routing ABS
clothes pins

Image Notes
1. Permission given by Melissa at Probotix to use these images.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/

Image Notes
1. Onsrud plastic cutter bit. Single flute. Used to cut ABS. Very necessary.

Image Notes
1. 1/4 inch router bit

Image Notes
1. these three cutout is part of the delta printers base
2. Probotix Comet

Step 4: Software
This is the suggested list of software you will need to learn to use.
Arduino IDE - To update the RAMPS firmware to the latest Marlin version configured for Delta Printers.
CAD and CAM software - I used CamBam. It is not that expensive and they give a generous trial period.
G-code interpreter - I use EMC2 or LinuxCNC.
Sketchup
Slic3r
Pronterface
I am sure there are others and feel free to comment on the software you like to use.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/

Step 5: Design the Frame

Since I have not actually seen a delta printer in person, the best I could do was make some guesses from images and youtube videos.
I concluded that making a delta printer is simply a matter of drawing an equilateral triangle, and placing vertical post on each corner. For the post, I decided to use
extruded aluminum with t-slots in the 20mm x 20mm size. Most manufacturers of these extrusions provide dimensional drawings of their product. The company called
OpenBuilds even provided the actual dimensional files in Sketchup. Mark from OpenBuilds gave me permission to share those sketchup files here. It is attached on this
page. I took these dimensional files and opened a hole on each corner of the equilateral triangle that the extrusions snugly slide through and force them to be perfectly
vertical. For the 20mm x 20mm extrusion, I made the holes 20.4mm wide. I have not actually personally seen or held an aluminum extrusion so I am just hoping my
design works.
My MDF board is not thick enough to hold the extrusions securely, so I designed a second layer (auxiliary layer) that glues onto the base. I made sure that the placement
of the extrusion made them equal distance from each other and that they are all facing the center of the triangle. Screw holes were also drilled for the stepper motor
mounting brackets.
At this point I ordered one 1500mm x 20mm x 20mm and a 1000mm x 20mm x 20mm aluminum extrusions some, t-nuts, M5 screws, and corner brackets from
OpenBuild,
Attached to this page are the cam, dxf and g-code files for the base. There will be no STL files as those are more common to 3D printed parts.

Image Notes
1. this is where i got the dimensions

Image Notes
1. this is the base and top of the machine. Two(2) have to be made.
2. this is a profile of the extrusion

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Image Notes
1. i drew up the extrusion in CAM
2. this is the mounting holes for the stepper motor brackets.
3. this is the auxiliary support for the extrusions. this will help keep it upright and
not wobble.

Image Notes
1. these two parts will fit together.

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Image Notes
1. perfect fit.

File Downloads

DeltaBase_Machining_MDF_Large_FINALDRAFT.cb (29 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'DeltaBase_Machining_MDF_Large_FINALDRAFT.cb']

DeltaBase_and_Top.ngc (22 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'DeltaBase_and_Top.ngc']

VSLOT Extrusion_11.skp (11 MB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'VSLOT Extrusion_11.skp']

DeltaBase_Auxiliary_Support.ngc (17 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'DeltaBase_Auxiliary_Support.ngc']

Step 6: Make the base

Secure a large piece of mdf (1.75 square feet) onto the spoil board of the CNC router. Make sure everything is level. Zero on the CENTER of your mdf board. For the drill
holes use a 1/8" drill bit. After the holes are drilled out change to the 1/4" wood router bit. Make two of the base boards.
After the base and top are made, make three of the auxiliary supports. For these pieces you will need an MDF board 8" x 14". Zero on the LOWER LEFT corner of the
board.
For mdf, I have the cutter feed rate at 30 inches per minute and the router running at 3/4 from full speed. Slower feed rates and/or faster spindle speed causes the bit to
overheat and the wood to burn.
Cut the aluminum extrusions (rails) into 750mm lengths with a hacksaw. Tape them together and put on the mill and mill the ends so that they are all exactly the same
length, flat and smooth.
Once everything is cut out, get six(6) 1.25" long #4-40 screws and six(6) nuts. Get out the wood glue. Glue a support to each corner of the base. Secure the parts
together with the screws. Temporarily insert an aluminum rail on each corner to make sure the base and the auxiliary support are lined up and square. Use a rafter
square to make sure the rails are perfectly vertical.
Attach the stepper motor mounting brackets underneath using twelve(12) #6-32 x .75" screws 24 washers and twelve(12) nuts. It is not necessary to tighten these screws
yet. Later, the stepper motors will need to be positioned so the belt clears the hole through the base without rubbing.

Image Notes
1. This was my first design. I felt it was too small after I cut it. I scrapped it.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/

Image Notes
1. But before i scrapped it, i tested the fit of the aluminum rails. Huzzah!!! it fits
perfectly snug.

Image Notes
1. The fit is perfect. Holds the rails upright without issue.
2. But, i am still scrapping this piece.

Image Notes
1. This is the auxiliary layer.
2. alignment holes.
3. Clearance notches for the stepper motor bracket screws.
Image Notes
1. This is the new piece. larger by about 40%.
2. there are six(6) of these holes. This will secure the auxiliary layer for an even
more secure fit for the rails.

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Image Notes
1. wood glue
2. stepper motor bracket attached with four #6-32 x .75" screws.

Image Notes
1. three aluminum rails.
2. CNC router.

Image Notes
1. glued on top of base

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Image Notes
1. screws to help align and to secure.
2. Stepper motor screws and nuts.

Image Notes
1. stepper motor brackets

Image Notes
1. Insert a rail before the glue dries. This will ensure the two layers are lined up.
Use a framing square to make sure the rail is perfectly vertical.

Step 7: Finish the frame.

Once the glue is completely dry, place a corner bracket on each side of the rail using t-nuts and m5 screws. Mark the holes on the base and drill out the holes using a
3/16" bit. Secure the vertical rails with m5 x 40mm screws and lock nuts. as you tighten, make sure to keep checking that the rails are perfectly vertical and perpendicular
to the base.
Attach the top cover using the same method with the corner brackets.
There is a third corner bracket on each rail at the top. That third bracket is for the belt tension screw. i will explain how that works when we get to the page about the belts
and pulleys.

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Image Notes
1. i purchased 2 types of corner brackets because I was not sure which one
works best.
2. t-nut
3. m5 screw
Image Notes
1. need to drill holes here
2. and drill here

Image Notes
1. i ended up using 15 of these.
2. if purchasing this type (cast aluminum) make sure to purchase the kind with
NO TABS on the back.

Image Notes
1. bracket, m5 screw, t-nut

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Image Notes
1. t-nut inside the slot.
2. the brackets I purchased had tabs. I milled them off.

Image Notes
1. Towers have to be perfectly verticle relative to the base.

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Image Notes
1. Position rail and brackets, make sure the rail is perfectly vertical, mark where
holes should be and drill.

Image Notes
1. after drilling holes, insert screws and secure with nut on the other side.

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Image Notes
1. This is the top of the machine. i pushed the rail through the top and secured
with corner brackets.
2. This bracket is actually for the belt tension screw.

Step 8: Design the End Effector

The end effector is is an equilateral triangle just like the base, just much smaller. The design has a hole in the center for the hot end nozzle. on the sides are six steel ball
joints. The end effector needs to be light, so it is made of ABS plastic. End effectors are normally printed parts since the part is not mechanically stressed. Again, since i
do not have a 3D printer, this will be machined on the CNC.
Attached are the cam files, dxf, and gcode files.

Image Notes
1. from 2D to 3D.
Image Notes
1. the hot end nozzle goes here.
2. ball joints go on the corners.

File Downloads

effector.cb (37 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'effector.cb']

Effector.ngc (107 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Effector.ngc']

Effector_mm.dxf (34 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Effector_mm.dxf']

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Step 9: Make the End Effector

Get two(2) 6" x 6" x 3/16 sheets of ABS and glue one on top of the other using PVC / ABS glue. You can get the glue from the plumbing section of a hardware store. Let
the glue cure for at least 24 hours, preferably 48 hours. The glue is a solvent and tends to make the ABS gummy in the middle until it is fully cured. If you start milling
before the glue cures, plastic builds up on the bit and you risk damaging the work, breaking the bit, or both.
I'm gluing layers of ABS together because it cost a fraction of what the material would cost if I purchased it in the thickness I needed.
Secure the work to the CNC machine and zero the machine on the Center of the sheet.
Milling ABS requires a slow and shallow approach. Feed into it too quickly or have the spindle spinning too fast and the plastic starts melting. The melted plastic builds up
on the bit and the work gets ruined or the bit breaks. You cannot start cutting into ABS and leave the work unattended. You must watch it with a hand on the emergency
stop in case the plastic starts melting.
I am describing in inches, but the design is actually in millimeters.
I have the spindle speed set to 1/3 speed. the spindle power setting is actually so low that it is on the threshold of not spinning up when first turned on. The feed rate is
set to 8-10 inches per minute and plunge speed is 5 inches per minute. The Comet can jog at 200 inches per minute, so as you see this is going to go very slowly. Layers
are removed at 1/16" increments.
Install a #43 drill bit for the drill holes. These holes will be tapped for #4-40 screws. once the holes are drilled out, switch to the Onsrud bit. Zero the Z axis on the bit and
start milling. Remember to keep an eye on it and be prepared to stop if it starts melting. If possible, blow compressed air on the cutter to keep it cool. Reset and slow
everything down on the next attempt.
Once the part is successfully cut, tap all the holes with a #4-40 tap. Screw in FIVE(5) ball joints into the corners. Set one ball joint aside.

Image Notes
1. I cut a lot of plastic with the CNC. The ABS makes for nice instrument panels.

Image Notes
1. Onsrud cutter. When on the right setting the bit does not even get warm.

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Image Notes
1. 12 of these are needed.

Image Notes
1. larger design.
2. too small. scrapping this piece.

Step 10: Design the Carriage

The carriages travel vertically on the rails. The up and down movement of the carriage on each tower is translated to x, y and z movement through six arms.
The carriage will have wheels that follow the tracks of the vertical rails. The wheels need to be adjustable to make sure they ride smoothly and do not wobble. On my
carriage design, the wheel tension is adjusted by having the third wheel on an arm. A 1.5" #4-40 screw is used to adjust the tension on the arm (please see picture in step
12).
I went with 3 wheels per carriage because of my restrictive budget. The wheels are expensive.
On the carriage will be four components; wheels, anchor points for the GT2 timing belt, a flag for the end stop, and two ball joints to connect it to the end effector. Two
pieces need to be machined to make the carriage.
The dxf, gcode, and cam files are attached.

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Image Notes
1. 40mm apart. Holes are threaded for #4-40 screw.
2. These six(6) holes are are threaded for #6-32 screw.
3. hole for wheel axle. 5mm.
4. Arm to adjust wheel tension on rail.
Image Notes
1. one ball joint here
2. other ball joint here
3. Carriage
4. Belt retention plate

File Downloads

Carriage.ngc (15 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Carriage.ngc']

Carriage_Belt_retention.ngc (1 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Carriage_Belt_retention.ngc']

TslotCarriage_mm.dxf (9 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'TslotCarriage_mm.dxf']

TslotCarriage.cb (21 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'TslotCarriage.cb']

Step 11: Mill the Carriages

Glue together 2 sheets of 6" x 10" x 3/16" ABS to make a thicker sheet just like what was done with the end effector. Let the glue cure completely. Three(3) of the
carriage.ngc file willl be milled from this sheet. Follow my previous precaution about milling the ABS carriages. The zero point of these parts are on the LOWER LEFT
corner. Zero each part to maximize the number of items you can make out of the 6" x 10" sheet. There should be plenty of room.
There are two size drill holes on the carriage plate, six(6) holes are #35 drill bit, and two(2) holes for the ball joint use #43 drill bit. The gcode i generated should pause for
a bit change. The carriage is milled using a 1/8" Onsrud bit.
You may ask why I set up the gcode to make each part individually. Why not just stick all three carriage plates into one gcode(ngc) file and cut everything on one go? My
reasoning is that ABS is a tricky material to mill. If something goes wrong and I have to reset, I would rather reset on just one part versus a batch of parts. It does mean I
have to reposition my zero for each part, but that also give me greater flexibility, especially when something goes wrong.
Secure the 6" x 6" x 1/8" ABS sheet to the cnc router. Mill three(3) carriage_belt_retension.ngc parts. The part uses #35 drill bit for the holes and 1/8" Onsrud bit for the
milling.

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Image Notes
1. see the large discolored circles? those are places where the drill bit started
melting the plastic and I had to hit the emergency stop.

Step 12: Assemble the Carriage

You may have noticed that in my gcode files I don't drill through the material. The reason for that is that even at the lowest setting, the router spindle speed is too fast and
the drill bit tends to melt the plastic. I am basically just using the CNC to mark the drill points, making a divot to accurately drill with a drill press. Once all the parts are
milled out, take the parts to a drill press and drill all the holes all the way through.
Tap the carriage body holes with a #6-32 tap and the ball joint spacer holes with a #4-40 tap.
Take the carriage plate and drill a 5/32" hole a 1/4" from the end of the arm where the third wheel is mounted. Drill only the arm. See picture.
Now take the #43 drill bit, pass it through the hole in the arm and drill into the carriage body (see pictures). Tap the #43 hole with a #4-40 tap.
Get a a 1.5" x #4-40 screw, place a washer on it and pass the screw through the 3/16 hole in the arm and screw it into the carriage body. Do not tighten the screw.
Install the two(2) ball joints.
Pass four(4) #6-32 x .5" screw through the belt retention plate. Then place a washer, .25" spacer, and a washer on each screw. Attach this assembly to the carriage
body.
Attach wheels 1 and 2 (not wheel 3 that is on the arm) using a M5 x 40mm screw and the provided spacer that came with the wheels. Secure with a lock nut.
Repeat two more times except SET ONE ball joint aside so that only FIVE(5) ball joints are used.

Image Notes
1. 5/32" hole through the arm.
2. Drill through this only

Image Notes
1. #43 drill bit. Much smaller than the hole in the arm
2. drill into the body

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Image Notes
1. Drill one inch down.

Image Notes
1. Attach the ball joints
2. This is version 1 of my carriage design. Version 2 (attached files) is much
simpler to CNC.
3. the holes for these tap with #4-40

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Image Notes
1. Tap for #4-40 thread.
2. Have washer here.
3. tap all these holes for #6-32

Image Notes
1. Belt retention plate.
2. 1/4" spacers
3. Washers

Image Notes
1. #6-32 screws
2. Belt retention plate
3. washers
4. 1/4" Spacers

Image Notes
1. And another washer on other side of spacer.
2. forgot washer here

Image Notes
1. forgot one washer. make sure there are 8 washers total.

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Image Notes
1. M5 x 40mm bolts for the wheels. Only these two wheels for now
Image Notes
1. Only attach 2 wheels for now

Image Notes
1. wheels

Image Notes
1. spacer

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Image Notes
1. Nylon lock nut

Step 13: Make End Stop Flags

A u-channel is machined into a blade that will interrupt the beam of the optical end stop. The screw hole is slotted to allow blade height adjustment.
To make this I cut a 4 inch section of u channel with a hacksaw. Then I made slots on one end that is 3/4 inch long. Finally, I used a hack saw to cut away one side and
the top. I cleaned up the hacksaw cut with the mill. The end result is that I have a 3 inch blade or flag. Make two(2) more just like it.
Attach this machined piece to the carriage using two(2) half inch #6-32 screws. Add a spacer between the carriage body and the flag. I used 1/8 inch plastic shims that
were meant for my quadcopter props. Do not completely tighen screws. The height needs to be adjusted later.
Repeat two more times.

Image Notes
1. U Channel aluminum extrusion
2. Hacksaw

Image Notes
1. u channel

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Image Notes
1. Mark 1" section and mill a slot 3/4" on both sides

Image Notes
1. Cut a 4" section

Image Notes
1. Remove one side and top with mill.
Image Notes
1. Slot
2. Other slot
3. 3 inch blade
4. End stop flag

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Image Notes
1. attach to carriage with screwdriver. This is why it is slotted on both sides
Image Notes
1. plastic shims for my quadcopter propellers
2. screw and washer

Image Notes
1. now attached to carriage,
2. ignore this wheel.

Image Notes
1. plastic shims. Stack 2 washers to get the same effect.

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Step 14: Attach Carriage to Rails

Insert a M5 x 40mm screw through the arm of the carriage, then the spacer. Slip the carriage assembly onto the rail and slip on the third wheel.
Do not let the carriage drop to the bottom. It could damage the wheels. Use clothes pins clipped to the rails to hold the carriage near the mid-point of the rail. Wood
clothes pins don't work. Use plastic clothes pins.
Secure the wheel with a lock nut. tighten the #4-40 screw on the arm until the carriage glides smoothly on the rail.
Keep the clothes pin on the rail.

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Step 15: Belt and Belt Pulleys

Cut your 5 meters of GT2 x 6mm timing belt into three(3) equal parts.
Attach a 20 teeth pulley to the stepper motor shaft. Tighten the set screw so the pulley does not slip on the motor shaft. Attach the stepper motor onto the motor bracket
using M3 screws. Adjust the motor position so that the pulley is visible and centered on the hole in the base.
Loop one end (about an inch) of the belt around one of the belt retention posts on the carriage. Zip tie the belt loop in place. the belt teeth will keep it from slipping off.
Thread the timing belt through the hole in the base and loop it around the pulley. Make sure the teeth of the belt and the teeth of the pulley engage. Thread the other end
of the belt through the center of the carriage, between the posts of the belt retention plate.
The smooth idler pulley will need to be mounted on some sort of sliding block. This block can be metal, plastic or hardwood. The material is not critical. What is important
is that there is a hole in the center that a M5 screw can fit through and a #4-40 threaded hole on the top center for a screw to go through. I used an aluminum block that
was 1" high by 1" wide by 1/2" thick. I drilled a hole slightly larger than 5mm about 1/4 inch from the bottom edge.
Pass an M5 screw through the smooth idler and through the block. Insert a t-nut into the rail and screw the M5 screw into the t-nut. Tighten enough so the smooth idler
pulley is secure but the block can still move up and down the rail with some resistance.
Pass a long (about 2.5") #4-40 screw through the third corner bracket at the top portion of the rail and screw it into the #4-40 hole on top of the block. Screw it in just
enough where the screw grabs.
Loop the timing belt around the smooth idler pulley and loop the end around the top post of the belt retention of the carriage. Pull the slack from the belt and secure the
belt with another zip tie. cut off excess so only about an inch is left.. Add another zip tie on each end about half an inch from the first zip tie.
Adjust the stepper motor brackets so that the timing belts do not rub against the mdf base. Tighten the nuts securing the motor bracket once the belt is properly centered.
Add tension to the belt by turning the screw in the third corner bracket at the top of the machine clockwise. This will cause the block (and the smooth idler pulley) to move
up pulling the belt tight.

Image Notes
1. 20 teeth pulley attached to stepper motor.
2. timing belt

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Image Notes
1. pulley seen through hole in the base.
2. timing belt

Image Notes
1. loop one end of belt here.
Image Notes
1. Zip tie

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Image Notes
1. Loop belt around pulley

Image Notes
1. Thread belt through center of carriage between the posts.

Image Notes
1. Smooth idler pulley
2. this block can be aluminum, plastic, wood.
3. T-Nut
4. Third corner bracket.

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Image Notes
1. Turn this screw to raise or lower the idler pulley and adjust the belt tension.
2. smooth idler pulley
3. M5 screw

Image Notes
1. loop other end of belt through upper post.
2. hold the belt end with clothes pin.

Image Notes
1. Turn this screw clockwise to tighten belt.

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Image Notes
1. Four zip ties will hold belt in place

Step 16: Six Rods, Three Parallelogram

The up and down movement of the carriages is translated into x, y, and z movement of the effector through six identical rods that form three parallelograms. In my build
each rod has neodymium magnets that attracts the metal ball joints. This magnetic connection creates a linkage that has zero backlash/play.
Take the carbon fiber tube(s) with 6mm inside diameter(ID) and cut into 12 equal parts 1" in length.
Take the three(3) 500mm carbon fiber tubes with an outside diameter (OD) of 6mm and cut into six segments exactly 249mm long (I am accounting for loss of material
from the hacksaw).
Get the two(2) ball joints that were set aside previously.
The most important part of making the rods is that the length of all six has to be identical. To accomplish this, I made two jigs. The first jig was designed to set the magnet
inside a tube and create a "cup" that the ball joint sits in. The jig maintained proper cup depth while the glue dried. I'll call this first jig the "ball joint cup jig" because I lack
imagination in naming things.
To make the ball joint cup jig, get two strips of mdf or wood that is 1" wide, 3" long and 1/2" thick. Drill a #43 hole in the center of one of them - this will be the bottom.
Stack the two pieces of wood and drill two 9/64" holes equal distance from each end. Take the top piece of wood and enlarge the holes with a 5/32" bit. Take two #8-32
threaded rods and thread them through the 9/64" holes of the bottom piece. Take one ball joint that was set aside and thread it through the center hole.
To assemble the magnetic ends with the ball joint cups stick a magnet on the ball joint. Next carefully apply a thin layer of Gorilla glue inside the tube making sure NOT
to get any glue on the lip of the tube - apply the glue about 1/16" away from the edge. Be sure to follow the Gorilla glue instructions (add moisture to the parts). Slip the
tube over the magnet and press against the ball joint. Attach the top portion of the jig and tighten with wing nut. Wait for the glue to dry for 1-2 hours. Repeat eleven more
times. After your done making these remove the ball joint and set aside.
the second jig is a piece of mdf that is 310mm long. Drill a #43 hole on one end and another hole 285mm away. Make one of the holes slightly over-sized so that the ball
joint screw will slip in snugly without needing to be screwed in. Do NOT make the hole so large that the ball joint can wobble. The ball joint has to slip in snug. Take one
of the ball joints and screw it into the other hole.
Take one of the magnetic ends (ball joint cup) and stick it to the ball joint. Put a drop of Gorilla glue inside the tube opposite the ball joint. Insert the one end of the 249mm
carbon fiber tube into the magnetic end. Take the other ball joint and stick another magnetic end on it. Add a drop of glue inside the tube opposite the ball joint. Insert the
other end of the 249mm tube into it. Stick the loose ball joint into the over-sized hole. Adjust the whole assembly so that the rod is perfectly straight and roughly equal
amounts of the thinner tube is inside both of the larger tube stuck to the ball joints. Let glue cure for 1-2 hours. Repeat five(5) more times.
Because I made each part one at a time using the same jig for each part, each rod, is exactly the same length as the others. Unfortunately, the whole process took three

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days.
At this point connect the end effector to the carriage using the newly created magnetic rods.

Image Notes
1. 6mm ID tubes cut into 1 inch lengths. Need twelve(12).
2. Magnet fits inside these tubes.

Image Notes
1. Ball joint "cup" setting jig.
2. ball joint
3. Magnet, 6mm x 10mm
4. Tube with 6mm ID and about 1 inch long

Image Notes
1. Ready to be pressed down.
2. Follow the directions. This glue expands. Do NOT put too much. A very thin
film inside is plenty.
3. Wing nuts

Image Notes
1. 6mm x 10mm neodymium magnets. need twelve(12).
2. 6mm ID tube, magent, ball joint.
3. Jig #1, ball joint cup jig.

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Image Notes
1. This jig will ensure that each magnetic cup is exactly the same depth as the
other eleven cups.
Image Notes
1. Here is the end result. Notice there is NO glue on the lip of the tube.

Image Notes
1. I was not sure what the length was going to be.
2. this was the proper length for this build.

Image Notes
1. This small pocket is optional.

Image Notes
1. drop of glue here

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Image Notes
1. Drop of glue here.

Image Notes
1. Let glue cure for 1-2 hours.

Step 17: End Stop Optics

The machine has to be able to know carriage position. This is accomplished by the G-code command G28. But for the G28 command to work, there needs to be sensors
at the three home points. The sensors could be micro-switches, hall effect, or optical. Which kind is used does not really matter. My design has three optical sensors
purchased from ebay.
First purchase a L-bar aluminum extrusion from the hardware store the L dimension should be 1" x 1/2". Cut three 1" sections. On the larger surface mark and drill holes
to mount the end stop sensor using a 1/8" drill bit. Drill two more holes on the other surface of the aluminum about 1/4" from the edges. Attach the sensors to the L-bars
using #4-40 screws and a nut. It may be necessary to use 1/8" nylon spacers so that the circuit board does not short out on the aluminum L-bar.
Wrap tape around the tip of the end stop flags on the carriage so that the optic sensors can be wedged onto the flag. If necessary, tape the sensor to the flag to keep it
secure (see picture). Raise the carriage so that the aluminum L touches the top of the printer. Mark the holes and drill through using a 1/8 bit.
Lower the carriage and remove the optical sensor. Attach the sensor to the top of the printer using #4-40 x 1" screws and nuts. Repeat for the other two towers.
Remember to remove the tape on the flags.

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Image Notes
1. This block was too big

Image Notes
1. The flag attached to the carriage could not reach the sensor.

Image Notes
1. Unfortunately, i attached all three before I realized it would not work.

Image Notes
1. L bar aluminum extrusion
2. the end stop flag

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Image Notes
1. I used the same shim from my quadcopter here

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Image Notes
1. paper and tape to make the blade thicker.

Image Notes
1. Raise carriage to the top.
2. raise till this touches the top

Image Notes
1. wedged the sensor to the flag. Use tape over the sensor if it is still falling off.

Image Notes
1. Drill on the marks using 1/8" bit

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Image Notes
1. Mark drill holes

Image Notes
1. Perfect!!!

Image Notes
1. Attach with #4-40 x 1" screws

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Image Notes
1. It is centered!!! Remember to remove the tape

Step 18: Route Wires from End Stop Sensors

For the end stop sensors, i cut the wire that came with it and soldered on red, black and green 22 gauge wires for easier identification. I routed the wires through the
center of the rail so they are out of the way. Where the wires meet an aluminum edge I applied shrink tubing for added protection.

Image Notes
1. Enlarge this hole to 1/4" and feed wires through for the optical sensors

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Image Notes
1. Cut and strip the wires

Image Notes
1. Color code the wires. Red is +, black is -, green is signal.

Image Notes
1. Twist the wires together and feed through the center of the rails.

Image Notes
1. Fit shrink tubing onto the wires and push the shrink tubing into the center hole of
the rail. This will protect the wires from the sharp edge of aluminum. Zip tie to keep
wire in place.

Step 19: Update the RAMPS 1.4 Firmware

Check the Delta Printer Google group for the latest version and news about the Marlin firmware.
Delta Robot 3D Printer Google Group
The actual firmware is probably on GitHub.
Launch the Arduino IDE and upload the latest Marlin Delta firmware to your Arduino Mega 2560. If you are not familiar with uploading sketches into Arduino boards,
please search Instructables for Arduino tutorials and visit the Arduino website.
Introduction to Arduino by Rondofo
Arduino Home

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Step 20: Design a RAMPS 1.4 Holder and Display Stand (Optional)
This step is optional but we need something to house our electronics. It is possible to just put the RAMPS board in a shoe box. But why? We have access to a CNC
router after all.
The design basically connects to the base of the 3D printer and puts the LCD display at a comfortable 45 degree angle for easy viewing.
Please see attached cam, dxf and g-code files.

File Downloads

RAMPSandLCD_Holder_GCODE.ngc (16 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'RAMPSandLCD_Holder_GCODE.ngc']

RAMPSandLCD_Holder_inches.dxf (6 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'RAMPSandLCD_Holder_inches.dxf']

RAMPSandLCD_Holder.cb (11 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'RAMPSandLCD_Holder.cb']

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Step 21: Make RAMPS 1.4 Holder and LCD Stand

Use the same mdf as the base board cut 7.5" high by 12" wide. Secure to the CNC router - I screwed it into the spoil board.
Cut two of the RAMPS holder design with the CNC. Use a 1/4" wood router bit. for the drill holes use a 1/8" drill bit.
Cut a rectangular section of mdf 4" x 1.75". Either use the CNC router or cut with a band saw then mill to make the rectangle's corners as 90 degrees as possible and the
edges as straight as possible.
Wood glue the rectangle to the RAMPS holder as shown on the pictures. Make sure everything is square and straight.
Once the glue dries, the whole assembly should fit snugly onto the base board of the 3D printer. Make it a permanent installment with wood glue or a removable structure
with screws. I went with screws so I can remove and relocate the holder if I have to.
Place the RAMPS 1.4 on the lower shelf. Mark screw holes and drill holes in mdf.
Place LCD display on the 45 degree slope. Mark screw holes and drill holes in MDF.
Secure the electronics with screws. use nylon washers where necessary.
If desired, cut a clear acrylic shield to go over the display.

Image Notes
1. I used a band saw

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Image Notes
1. needs to be 4 inches long

Image Notes
1. then I squared the corner with the mill

Image Notes
1. I used 1-2-3 blocks to space the parts exactly 3 inches apart
Image Notes
1. glued the wood block flush with the sides

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Image Notes
1. Clamped against 1-2-3 blocks to keep everything square
2. scrap mdf put pressure on the glue

Image Notes
1. scrap mdf to put pressure on the glued pieces

Image Notes
1. 45 degree shelf for display
Image Notes
1. shelf for RAMPS

Step 22: Wires, Wires Everywhere

The crazy first picture is not the reality. It is how my mind perceives the wiring of this project. In reality, there really is not that many wires involved. Eighteen wires total for
the motors, nine for the sensors, two for the thermister, two for heating element, four for power. So, not really that much wiring.
Follow the RAMPS wiring instructions found in the RepRap wiki.
RAMPS 1.4 Wiki
Also reference the technical specs and white papers of your motors on how to wire up to a stepper motor controller. Many build blogs and youtube video tell you to short
two wires or test continuity to figure out how to connect the stepper motor wires. Well I say the most sure fire way to do it is to get the technical specification paper of your
motor and follow the wiring diagrammed in there. You cannot really go wrong when following the diagrams that came from the manufacturer, unless the manufacturer
could care less about writing an accurate white paper for their products.
If you look at the connection pins for the stepper motors on the RAMPS you will see "2B 2A 1A 1B" and as seen in the stepper motor diagram they designated there wires
B2 = Red, B1 = Yellow, etc. This was specific to my stepper motors, but it takes the guess work out of wiring and no need to "short out two wires" to find pairs. We are
making a finely tuned machine here. If white papers are available, use them.
As you can see the RAMPS board has stepper motor connections for X, Y and Z axis. Since all our motors travel the same directions (up and down) see the seventh
picture to determine which motor connects to which axis.
For the stepper motor wires I kept the existing wiring.

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For the sensor wires, the RAMPS board has an "S" for the green signal wire, the middle pin is the black ground wire, and the last pin is plus volts red. I am only sensing
for the top end stop limit which is the MAX movement. That means that I will be connecting end stops on on Max-X, Max-Y and Max-Z. So, looking at the pins left to right I
am plugging in at 2, 4 and 6. That is just me. You may decide to put six sensors and fill up all the end stop pins.
After all the wires are connected clean up the wiring. Do some wire management to make sure none of the wires accidentally get bound up into moving parts.

Image Notes
1. But really there are not that many wires to deal with.

Image Notes
1. All these wires is just my anxiety about making the electrical connections. What
i consider to be the do or die moment of the project.

Image Notes
1. When you buy the motors, expect that the whitepapers will be given or
available. Can't find the spec sheet, don't buy it.

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Image Notes
1. This took all the guess work away from me.

Image Notes
1. This is the Z axis. See how the pins are designated similar to the motor specs.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/

Image Notes
1. Extruder pins

Image Notes
1. This is the motor layout.

Image Notes
1. X end stop
2. Y end stop
3. Z end stop

Image Notes
1. This is stepper motor wires.

Image Notes
1. handful of 3 pin and 4 pin Dupont connectors.

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Image Notes
1. wire order based on stepper motor whitepaper of motors I purchased and
RAMPS pin order

Image Notes
1. Stepper motor wiring

Image Notes
1. Doing the same for end stop sensor wires.

Image Notes
1. Wire mess

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Image Notes
1. Better

Step 23: Test Movement

With everything wired up, it is time to test the movement of the delta 3D printer.
Test the homing function. With the power OFF, move all the carriages to the middle. Apply power to the printer and navigate the menu on the LCD to "Prepare" then to
"Auto Home".
If any carriage starts moving down, press the "Stop" button on the LCD circuit board. Turn the power off. Flip the stepper motor around and turn the power on again. Test
movement with the "Auto Home" again. Make sure to keep your hand on the stop button. Stop the machine if the carriage crashes through the end stops.
If the machine crashes, double check your configuration.h settings. Change the size parameters or perhaps reverse some logic like configuring something from "false" to
"true". Or perhaps a line of code needs to be commented out (//) like a command command for a pull up resistor.
The configuration.h will need to be tweaked later with all the peculiars of the delta, but for now, just getting the direction of travel correct and getting the machine to stop
on end stop sensors is enough. I'm still actually learning the ins and outs of the Marlin firmware, so please forgive me if this part of the instructable is lacking. I will
continue updating this ible as a learn more.

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Image Notes
1. Emergency STOP. Keep finger on this during first test.

Step 24: The Extruder and the Hot End

Remember that I said that this build was on a lowly budget of $400 US. Well, what I did not mention was that it was in monthly installments of $60-$75. So each month, I
had just around $75 to spare to buy parts here and there. It took me months to get parts to get this far. Stupid things like rent, groceries, utility bills, etc. required my funds
more for some reason.
Unfortunately, we are now at the part that will cost the most for this project. I am looking at an "all metal" hot end and Bowden extruder kit. It's a matched set. Total cost
will be around $150. I am waiting on April 2015's allotment of $75 to have the funds to make the purchase. Which means I should have the extruder and hot end by mid
April 2015.
So this is where the instructable takes a pause.
I do not really feel the instructable in unfinished. The movement test has shown that a fairly accurate Delta Robot (deltabot) was created. This deltabot can now go into
different applications. A laser diode can be installed and the deltabot can be used as a laser etcher. A marker can be installed and it can draw through CNC. A syringe
extruder can be installed and the deltabot can make 3D in clay or chocolate. The choice is yours at this point on how you plan to utilize what I have designed.
Until I get the extruder set... Thank you for reading this far.

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Comments
10 comments Add Comment

jonathan.elwell says:

Mar 17, 2015. 5:25 AM REPLY

Great build, I've been thinking of making a 3D printer as well, and I have a DIY CNC at home to mill parts. I was wonder why exactly you choose to do a Delta
style machine, as opposed to a more traditional gantry style (I've also considered making a conversion kit for my CNC so I can swap back and forth and reused
the same carriage system).
Just curious, again great job and excellent documentation!

MrTinkerer says:

Mar 17, 2015. 6:35 AM REPLY

A friend asked me the same question. My main response is the simplicity of the mechanics. Where a Cartesian 3D printer needs to have a separate
design for each axis, with a Delta approach, I designed 1 moving part and repeated it 3 times. If someone else had not already figured out the math, i
would not make the delta.
The other reason is aesthetics. I see the motion of the delta to be quite elegant.

JON-A-TRON says:

Mar 16, 2015. 1:38 PM REPLY

Excellent instructable, awesome project. Voted!

MrTinkerer says:

Mar 17, 2015. 6:20 AM REPLY

Thank you.

Bongmaster says:

Mar 15, 2015. 5:41 AM REPLY

great build :) and apparently them black connectors for connecting into pin headers are Dupont Connectors ;)

MrTinkerer says:

Mar 15, 2015. 2:51 PM REPLY

Great. thank you for the info. I will update the materials list.

daniellozysko says:

Mar 15, 2015. 10:33 AM REPLY

great construction!

JohnnieT says:

Mar 15, 2015. 1:01 AM REPLY

wow! really great job! I'm looking forward to the completion of the project!

tomatoskins says:

Mar 14, 2015. 11:19 PM REPLY

I give you a 10 for documentation and execution! So beautiful!

MrTinkerer says:

Mar 14, 2015. 11:35 PM REPLY

thank you, you are too kind. As i tweak the deltabot's performance I will update this ible with what changes I made to the configuration.h settings. I may
also make tweaks and changes to the design and update the dxf and gcode files accordingly.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-3D-Printer-with-a-CNC-router/