Name of the Students

Mohammed Billal Hossain

Intake
2nd

Chairman:
Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah-Ur-Rahman
Professor & Chairman
Supervisor:
Farhatun Nabi
Lecturer

January, 2015

ID
10112107028

To
Dr.Shah Mohammad Fatah-Ur-Rahman
Professor & Chairman
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
MIrpur-2, Dhaka-1216
Subject: Submission of Industrial Attachment.
Dear Sir,
With due respect & humble, I am the students of Department of Textile
Engineering, Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT) have been
successfully concluded our industrial training program. In this stage I Am
submitting my Industrial Attachment on Apparel Manufacturing Technology at
Textown Group Limited (TTGL) as a part of our B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
requirement that bears three (03) credit hours under your supervision. I am
submitting this attachment for my academic purpose only.
I therefore request and expect that, you will appreciate me with any sort of
recommendation & valued suggestion & will cordially receive this Industrial
Attachment for your kind assessment.
Yours sincerely
Mohammed Billal Hossain
Id: 10112107028

Intake- 2nd
Department of Textile Engineering
Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)


Chairman : Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah-Ur-Rahman
Professor & Chairman
Department of Textile Engineering

....
Supervisor: Farhatun Nabi
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering

ii

Firstly i would like to thank the Almighty Allah for giving me patience to conclude
my internship program & finally this industrial attachment. Preparing the
internship report based on Apparel Manufacturing Technology, I have
understood that it is very difficult to find out the basic and fundamental aspects
of apparel manufacturing are largely distant from the theoretical bookish
knowledge.
I would like to thank our chairman Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah-Ur-Rahman,
Professor & Chairman, Dept. of Textile Engineering, Bangladesh University of
Business & Technology (BUBT). And also like to thank my supervisor teacher
Farhatun Nabi, lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Bangladesh
University of Business & Technology (BUBT) for her continuous support,
encouragement, suggestion, guidance and constructive criticism to get through
the industrial training. Without her cordial supervision it would be almost
impossible to prepare such a large report.
I am extremely delighted to express my indebtedness and deepest sense of
gratitude to my supervisor Mr. Saleck Hossin shopon Dyeing Manager, Textown
Group Limited (TTGL) for his kind permission for the training and his able
guidance, untiring efforts, stimulating influence and valuable comments during
the training period.
Special thanks to Md. Lokman hossin, Factory Manager, Textown Group Limited
(TTGL) for his cordial support during the period of internship.
I thank the management of Textown Group Limited (TTGL)) for giving me the
opportunity to undergo Industrial Training there. My gratitude also goes to all
engineers, officers, technicians, employees, stuffs, all section in-charges for their
cordial behavior. I am lucky that I have gotten such helping hand without whom;
this attachment could not be completed.
Thus all in all it can be said that without their help it would not be possible for me
to prepare this internship report. So I would like to convey thanks notation to all
who directly or indirectly contributed and inspired me time to time in preparing
the report.
iii

The Industrial Attachment is the most effective way for Textile Engineering
student to be achieved the knowledge about the practical field of the Textile
Manufacturing. It brings an opportunity to all the learners to enrich their
academic knowledge by practicing with the experts of the practical field of textile.
It is our pleasure that, we had an opportunity to complete our two month
internship at Textown Group Limited (TTGL) which is one of the most modern
industries of the country.
Textown Group Limited (TTGL)) is one of the major garments manufacturing
organization in Bangladesh. This organization increasingly reducing its rejection
and rework rate in-process and final garments in order to ensure product quality
and delivery time as per buyer requirement and increase profitability. Textown
Group Limited (TTGL)) will ensure sufficient training and suitable work to increase
productivity and skills of the employee. Now Textown Group Limited (TTGL) has a
1,53,500 square feet area. Its production capacity is around 25,000 per day,
number of machines 762 and number of employees at least 2524.
In this report we tried to cover a short profile of Textown Group Limited (TTGL)
and major customers of Textown Group Limited (TTGL) and their different
activities.

iv

INTRODUCTION
If the theoretical knowledge is a glass of water then the practical knowledge would be drinking
of the water. It is always very easy to make a man understand about a firebox by showing and
lighting practically rather than describing theoretically who has not ever seen a firebox. So, for
any technical education the practical experience is the most important as well as the theoretical
knowledge.
As we are studying in a technical line, it is always important for us to gather the practical
knowledge. Through our study life the only biggest chance for us to combine the theoretical
knowledge with the practical knowledge that is the Industrial Attachment period that comes
only once in the education life. So we can easily realize the importance of Industrial
Attachment. And in addition the knowledge we gathered from the industrial training reflects in
the report of industrial attachment note book.
So industrial attachment is the process where the trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge
with practical knowledge increasing his/ her ability of work, skillfulness, performance and
attitude and so on. It also provides sufficient knowledge about production management,
productivity evaluation, work study & efficiency, industrial management, production planning
and control, production cost analysis, inventory management, utility, maintenance and so on.
Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and
also improve courage and inspiration to take self-responsibility.

Mission & Vision of the Textawn Group:

We have both backward linkage as well as forward linkage. Export market linkage mainly conveyed by
our marketing team having a bunch of smart and challenging executives. We have direct contact with
buyers and hope to give enlarge our hand to retailer also. To meet the challenges of 21st Century
Export market we have taken the following steps.

Best quality with reasonable prices

Participation of trade fair and exhibition and fashion show all over the world.
We have recruit flexible product design team with vast knowledge of fashion
manufacturing.
We have a web site as "www.textowngroup.com" , by this site customer can share
information about everything they desire and also can send feedback to us.
Recently we are opening liaison office to give better service to our customer
We have several agents all over the world to promote our product.

Name of the Factory:

Textown group

Type of Company:

100% Export oriented composite knitwear industry

Legal Status Company:

Private Limited Company

Year of Establishment:

JUNE 2004

Management:

Managing Director :
Director :
Commercial Director :
Executive Director :
DGM (Commercial):

Location of the Factory:

Dewan Edris Sarak ,Bararangamita, Ashulia, Dhaka,

Bangladesh

Head office:

House no: 374, Road no: 28, NEW D.O.H.S

Mohakhali-1206,
BANGLADESH.

Contact Information:

Mr. Anowar Hossain (Managing Director)

Mr. Kaucher Hossain (Director)
Mobile Number: 01713021879
PHONE: 8802 8858671-2, FAX: 8802 8858670
E-MAIL: okgil@textowngroup.com

Floor Space Of The Factory:

Garment Space- 90,000sq Ft. With Cutting, Sewing,

Finishing, Sewing Store, Canteen and Others.
Knitting Space- 15,000sq Ft
Dyeing and Finishing Space- 22,000sq Ft
Central Store- 10,000sq Ft
Office- 6,000sq Ft
Sample Dept.: 2,500sqft
Print Area- 8,000sq Ft.

Anowar Hossain (Manik).

Kaucher Hossain.
Jainal Abedin.
K. G. Mahinda Gunaratne.
Zahidur Rahman.

Bangladesh Garments Manufacturer & Exporters Association Membership Number: 3916

Product Line:

Garment And Dress- Tee Shirt, Polo Shirt, Vest, Sweater,

Shirt For Mens Ladies,Children,Babys.Fabric-100% Cotton,
Polyester, CVC, Single Jersey, Rib, Interlock, Pique

Number of Employees:

1,700 Person

Machinery:

Garment-722
Knitting Per Day-20
Dying& Finishing-24

Production Capacity Per Day

Garment-Total25,000pcs(10hours Max:)
Basic Tee: 15,000pcs
Polo Tee: 6,000pcs
Others: 4,000pcs
Knitting Per Day: 6000kgs (Rest 2,000kgs Support From
Other Factory)
Dying& Finishing(Fabric)
Per Day: 8,000kgs
Per Day: 18,000kgs

Qualify Certification:

BSCI, ISO

Buyer:
Country name
GERMANY,
Holland
UK
(FRANCE),
UK)
(SWEDEN

Buyer name
TK INTERNATIONAL (TAKO)
PF CONCEPT
NEXT(LIME)
DOROTENNIES
MATALAN
KAPPAHL

Kmart

Australia

Different Departments of Textown group

Knitting Section:
Knitting
Inspection
Dyeing Section:
Batch section
Dye house
Dyeing lab.
Quality control
Finishing
Garments Section:
Merchandising
Sample
Cutting Section
Sewing Section
Finishing Section
Maintenance Section:
Electrical
Mechanical
Store Section
Administration Section
Security Section
Production Planning & Control
Supporting Department
Personnel Administration
Procurement
Marketing
HRD
Finance &Accounting
Work Study
Compliance & Safety

Knitting:
Knitting is the process of producing a fabric by forming a series of connected loops from a
series of yarn. In this method fabric is produced by intermeshing of loops.

Objectives of knitting:

To produce fabric.
Produce fabric for making garments smoothly.

To minimize fabric cost.

For regular fabric supply.

Knitting Types:
There are two types of knitted fabric
1. Warp knitted fabric.
2. Weft knitted fabric.
Warp knitting: Each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the number
of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row.
Weft knitting: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in
horizontal direction.

Basic knitting element:

1. Needle.
2. Sinker.
3. Cam.
Needle:
Function of needles: Needle is used to clear the old
loop from the hook & to receive the new loop above
it on the needle steam.
Types of needle:
In general there are three types of needles.
a) Bearded needle.
b) Latch needle.
c) Compound needle.

CAM:
Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the
needles or other elements.
Types of cam
Two types of cam
A. Engineering cam
B. Knitting cam
a) Knit cam
b) Miss cam
c) Tuck cam
Function of CAM

Produce motion to needles.

Loop formation.
Holding down.
Knocking over.

Sinker:
This is secondary primary knitting element . it is a thin metal plate with an individual and collective
action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoin needles.
It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action and
consequent sinker shape and movement.
Others Equipments used in Knitting Section:
GSM cutter
Electronic balance
Inspection m/c

Terms and definition of knitting:

Course A horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle.
Wales A vertical column of loops formed by a single needle.
Loop- It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic unit.
Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft of
woven structures termed Wales and courses respectively
Stitch- The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is stitch. It
consists of a yarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch
or other loop.
Stitch length - Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles of the needle loop & half of
the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more extensible & lighter the
fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.

Yarn count
Yarn count is the numerical system of expressing length per unit weight or weight per unit
length. Count express fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Direct system:
In direct system, yarn count is directly related to the yarn fineness. So, lower the count finner the
yarn and higher the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for Polyester and Lycra and
other synthetic fibers.
Direct Count =

W l
w L

Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample
w=unit weight of the system
l=unit length of the system

Indirect system:
In indirect system, yarn count is inversely related to the yarn fineness. So, higher the count finner
the yarn and lower the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for cotton, worsted &
woolen.
Indirect Count =

w L
W l

Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample
w=unit weight of the system
l=unit length of the system

Sequence of operations in knitting section

Sample fabric
Design analysis
Setting the machine for specific design
Sample making for production
Quality verification
Production
Fabric inspection
Send to batching section

Machine profile for knitting section

Figure: Automatic Flat Bed Machine

Figure: Circular Knitting Machine

Circular Knitting machine:

Dia

Gauge

Qunatity
Of
Feeder

No. of
needle

Fabric
Production
Structure

County
Of
Origin

Machine
Brand

no.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12

30
30
38
30
30
30
34
36
34
36
36
36

13
14
15
16

36
34
34
32

17

32

18
19

34
38

20

42

24
18
18
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
18
24
24
24
28
24
24

98
60
68
60
108
98
98
98
96
108
108
108
73
72
102
76
96
102
228
252

2261
1696
2148
2261
2261
2261
2563
2713
2563
2713
2713
2713
2713
1921
2563
2412
2412
2990
2864
3166

S/Jersey
RIB
RIB
INT: Lock
INT: Lock
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
RIB
RIB
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey
S/Jersey

Japan
Japan
Japan
Japan
Japan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan

Fukuhara
Fukuhara
Fukuhara
Fukuhara
Fukuhara
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim
Shie-dim

01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01
01

Sl

Other machine
SL.No
1
2
3
4

M/C Name
Yarn
Flat knitting m/c
Crochet Knitting
BRAIDING MACHINE

origin

Size X gauge

Quantity

Taiwan
Taiwan
China

64inc X 14G
30inch x10H
-

4
4
6

NARROW FABRIC
JACQUARD LOOM

China

Raw Material for Knitting

The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of count are used.
In yarn store section we had the chance to know about different yarns of different count used in
TTGL.
Cotton
Polyester
Spandex yarn
Grey Mlange
Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%)
Anthra Mlange (C-65% V-35%)
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)
CVC

20S 24S, 26s, 30S, 32S, 34S, 40S

75D, l00D
20D, 40D, 70D
24S, 26S
24S, 26S, 28S
24S, 26S, 28S
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Product Mix
Single Jersey

S/J
Lycra S/J
Yarn Dyed S/J
Polo Pique
Single Lacoste
Double Lacoste
Fleece
Lycra Fleece

Double Jersey

1*1 Rib
1*1 Lycra Rib
Yarn Dyed Rib
2*1 Rib
2*2 Rib
2*2 Lycra Rib
Interlock

Type Of Collar

Tipping Collar
Solid Collar
Raising Collar
Peacot Collar
Waisy Band / Hem

Typical knitting calculations:

The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below:
Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch.
Total needles:
MachinediameterGauge3.1416
Feeders of Single Jersey:
Machine diameter3
Feeders of Double Jersey:
Machine diameter2
Relation between yarn count and fabric Gsm
For single jersey fabric:

4320

For Double jersey fabric:

Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency

6000

RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL(mm)

3527.80 Yarn count

Fabric width in meter

=
=

Fabric G.S.M:

For Single Jersey = 590.5 X 16.1 /S. L /yarn Count.

For Rib = 590.5 X 18.1 /S. L /yarn Count.
For Interlock = 590.5 X 26.1 /S. L /yarn Count.

Quality Standard:
Textown Group Ltd. follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & rib

fabric, by this four point system, the faults arc found by the inspection and points are given

against the faults. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by
inspection at Textown Group Ltd.

Four Point Grading System

Size Of Defects
3 inches or less
Over 3 inch but not over 6
inch
Over 6 inch but not over 9
inch
Over 9 inch
Any Hole

Penalty
1
2
3
4
4

Penalty points/legends/faults appearance

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Hole Mark
Needle Mark
Sinker Mark
Star
Drop Stitches
Oil stain
Rust stain

8. Pin hole
9. Grease stain
10. Cloth fall-out
11. Barre
12. Fly dust
13. Yarn contamination
14. Yarn Faults

Machine

Machine Name
Inspection machine

Origin
Local

Acceptance calculation
100. =

Acceptable points

Quantity
2

100 36

Upto 40 points =A
41-60 points =B
61-80 points=C
Above=reject

Faults, Causes & Their Remedies in Knitting

1. Hole Mark
Causes:
Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
Badly knot or splicing.
Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
Use proper count of yarn.
Correctly set of yarn feeder.
Knot should be given properly.

2. Needle Mark
Causes:
When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a
result sinker mark comes.
If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
Sinker should be changed.
4. Star
Causes:
Yarn tension variation during production.
Buckling of the needle latch.
Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop Stitches
Causes:
Defective needle.
If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
Take-down mechanism too loose.
Insufficient yarn tension.
Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
Needle should be straight & well.
Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
Yarn tension should be properly.
6. Oil stain
Causes:
When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
7. Rust stain
Causes:
If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.
8. Pin hole
Causes:
Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
Change the needle
9. Grease stain
Causes:
Improper greasing
Excess greasing
Remedies:
Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall-out

Causes:
Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of
the hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.
11. Barre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) stripe.
Causes:
This fault comes from yarn fault.
If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn &
these fibers have similar characteristics.
In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
We can use this fabric in white color.
12. Fly dust:
Causes:
In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to
low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric
surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
By cleaning the floor continuously.
By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
13. Yarn contamination
Causes:
If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
Fault less spinning.

14. Yarn Faults:

Neps.
Slubs.
Yarn count variations.
Thick/Thin place in yarn.
Hairiness.

Batch section
Laboratory
Dyeing
Finishing

Batching
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for
a particular lot of a particular order.
Function or Purpose of Batch Section
To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
Turn the grey fabric if require.
To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
M/C capacity
M/C available
Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
Emergency
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Proper batching criteria
To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration.
Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime
planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.
Grey Fabric Inspection
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality Control
in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary
considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
The Grading Has Two Primary Functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to standard
qualities based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply information as to
the qualities actually being produced.
The Knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of
points for defects as follows.

 The First quality level .................40 points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Second quality level............ (40 80) points per 100 Linear Yards.
The Third quality level ............... 80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards.
Grading Procedure:
All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect.
Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect.
Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect.
Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect.
Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack marks, are judgment defects.

M/C s in batch section:

Machine Name

Air turning machine

No. of M/c

02

Origin

Taiwan

Lab section
Laboratory
Laboratory is the heart of dyeing Industry. An efficient laboratory can increase the
efficiency of dyeing. So, laboratory in-charge is sometimes called pilot. Before bulk
production a sample is sent to buyer for approval. Laboratory supplies the recipe to the
floor.
Purpose of Laboratory:
Get color approval from buyer.
Recipe supply to the floor.
Shade correction.
Minimize the deviation between bulk and laboratory.
Sequence of lab operations:
A number of operations are done in lab section. This are
Sample/Swatch/Panton no. / TCX no. / TPX no. from the buyer

Determination of samples possible color combination by the help of Spectrophotometer or

manual

Dispersion by autodoser

Trial dyeing of the recipe

Unload

Normal wash

Hot wash with detergent

Oven drying

Ironing

Shade matching in light box ( If Ok then send to buyer for approval)

If not ok

Sample/Swatch from the buyer:

Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section through the merchandiser.
Fabric & dye selection:
According to the buyer swatch, the type of fabric is selected & the dye selection depends on the
following factor:
The dye stuff contains Metamerism or not.
The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color.
Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color.
The cost of dye stuff.

Recipe prediction:
Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or Spectrophotometer.
By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer.
Then manually after selecting the dye some recipes are found with the best
suitable recipe comes first & then others.
If the recipe shows Metamerism then changes the selected dye.
Sampling & pipe ting:
According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals are weighted & stock solutions
are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to
the recipe%. Such as

For Dye

If recipe % (0.0001- <0.001) then stock solution % (0.01%)

If recipe% (0.001- <0.1) then stock solution % (0.1%)
If recipe % (0.1-0.8) then stock solution% (0.5%)
If recipe% (0.9-4.9) the stock solution% (2.5%)
If recipe % (5) then stock solution % (5%)

For Auxiliaries:
Salt 20% stock solution
Soda: 10% stock solution.
Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l
Detergent: 200ml/l
Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l
Pipette use in lab section: 0.1 ml 2 ml & 5 ml to 20 ml.

Dyeing:
After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is taken in sample
dyeing m/c beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 5gm & liquor ratio 1:10.
Dispatch:
After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer or by eye vision in
verified matching cabinet. If it shows Metamerism then recipe correction is done & again
samples are prepared until no Metamerism & shade match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3
samples are attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer through
merchandiser.
If the buyer chooses the sample then the recipe is send to the dyeing section for bulk
production through lab dip program card.

Lab Dip:
A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. It is a process by which buyers
supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without
help of spectrophotometer. Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & this is an
important task before bulk production.
The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing

To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.
To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
Finally approved Lab Dip. (Grade: A B C)

Machine of Lab Unit

Machine name

Origin

Quantity

Spectrophotometer

Taiwan

Sample dyeing machine

Hong Kong

Sample Dryer machine

UK

Washing machine

Korea

Yarn count tester

India

Pilling tester

India

Fabric appearance tester

India

Rubbing test machine

India

P Meter

India

Weight measuring m/c

India

GSM

India

Color Matching Cabinet (Light box):

Light Source:
Day Light (D-65)
UV

TL-84
Fluorescent light

PANTONE BOOK (TCX, TPX):

This book is used for shade matching. Sometime buyer gave the pantone no.
in their order. Pantone no. indicates the shade of the garments. Its a universal
shade matching book.
Full name
: Pantone Textile
Color Selector Color numbering system : 6
digit + suffix
First two digits
: 11 to 19 (range of lightness)
Middle two digits
: 01 to 64 (range of hue)
Last two digits
: 01 to 65 (range of chroma)

Tested done in TTL

o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

Color Fastness to perspiration

Stability test
Spirality test
Color Fastness to washing
Color Fastness to rubbing
Color Fastness to perspiration
fabric wight
yarn twist
fabric PH
Hand pill

Dyeing:
Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add colour and intricacy to
textiles and increase product value. It chemically changes a substance so that the reflecting
light appears. Most dyeing is performed either by the finishing division of vertically integrated
textile companies or by specially dye houses. Specially dye houses operate either on
commission basis or purchase greige goods and finish them before selling them to apparel and
other product manufacturers. Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques and
equipment. Dyes used by the textile industry are largely synthetic, typically derived from coal
tar and petrolium-based intermediates. Dyes are sold as powders, granules, pastes and liquid
dispersions with concentrations of active ingredients ranging typically from 20 to 80 percent.
Process Flow Chart of Dyeing Floor
Grey Fabric Inspection

Scouring


Bleaching

Mercerizing

Dyeing

Finishing

Final Inspection

Machine list of dyeing floor

Sample machine
Machine name
ATA
Fonges
Fonges
Fonges
Suntex
Suntex

Origin
Taiwan

china
china
china

Capacity (kg)
15
30
10
12
11
10

Bulk production machine

Sl.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

Brand name
Ata
Fonges
Fonges
Fonges
Fonges
Fonges
Fonges
Fonges
Fonges
Brazoli

Origin
Taiwan
China
China
china
China
China
China
China
China
Turkey

Capacity (KG)
100
250
250
500
1500
1100
500
500
700
1500

NO. Nozzle
1
1
2
2
6
4
1
2
3
5

11

Brazoli

Turkey

600

Raw materials for dyeing

Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:
1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.
1. Grey fabrics
Following types of gray fabrics are dyed in TTL:
Single jersey
Single jersey with lycra
Polo pique
Back Pique
Single lacoste
Double Lacoste
Fleece
Rib
Rib with lycra
11 rib
22 rib etc.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18

Brand
Dystar
Dystar
Dystar
Dystar
Dystar
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Dysin chem
Dysin chem
Dysin chem
Dysin chem
Dysin chem
Dysin chem
Dysin chem

Dyes
Remazol Red RR
Remazol Yellow RR
Remazol BlueRR
Remazol T.Biue G
Remazol Blue BB New
Drimarine Black CL SP
Drimarine Blue HF
Drimarine Blue HF RL
Drimarine Red CL 58
Drimarine Yellow CL 2R
Drimarine T . Blue CL-BP
Dychufix Yellow 3R XF
Dychufix Black GR XF
Dychufix Black B
Dychufix Blue BR XF
Dychufix Red 3B XF
Dychufix Red 028
Dychufix Red 68 XF

49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66

Brand
Desperse
Desperse
Desperse
Desperse
Desperse
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant

Dyes
Disperse Yellow SEG
Disperse Red EBF
Disperse Black ECO
Disperse Navy Blue
Disperse Blue BG
Foron G.Yellow SWF
Foron Brilliant Yellow SWF
Foron Black SWF
Foron Rubine SWF
Foron Scarlet SWF
Foron Blue SWF
Foron Red SWF
Foron Violet SWF
Foron Navy SWF
Foron Blue RO-E
Foron Scarlet RO-E
Foron Blue RD-S
Foron Black RD-CN

19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48

Elbe
Elbe
Elbe
Elbe
Elbe
Elbe
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Bodactive
Bodactive
Bodactive
Bodactive
Sumifix
Sumifix
Sumifix
Sumifix
KISCO
KISCO
KISCO
KISCO
KISCO
KISCO
KISCO
KISCO
KISCO
M S INTERN.
M S INTERN.

Elbezol Blue R Sp
Elbezol Yellow 3RS
Elbezol Red 3BSN
Elbezol Black B
Elvezol Yellow 4GL
Elbezol Black WNN
Jakazol Fuchia CF HC
Jakazol Gold CF HC
Jakazol Orange CFR
Jakafix Yellow ME4GL
Jakafix Red ME3BL
Bodactive Black B
Bodactive Red CF K 3BS
Bodactive Yellow CF 3R
Bodactive Brill. Red 3BS
Sumifix Red 3BS
Sumifix Ye llow 3RS
Sumifix Black B
Sumifix Black EXF (A)
Synozol Red K 3BS
Synozol Yellow K 3RS
Synozol Blue K BR
Synozol Navy Blue K BF
Synozol Black B 150%
Synozol Black E R 150%
Synozol Deep Red HB
Syno White EMG BS Liq
Synolon Crimson EXW
Sino White 4BK 48 M S
Sino White BYB

67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
89
90
91
92
93

Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
Clariant
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
T&T lndustri
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay
Jay

2. Dyes
3. Chemicals
Different types of chemicals are used
Basic chemicals:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Hydrogen peroxide
Acetic acid
Soda ash
Caustic soda
Common salt
Glubar salt
Bleaching
acid Hydrose

Detergent
Ffloson NOf

Anticrease
Depsolube ACA

Foron Yellow-Brown S-2RFL

Foron Navy RD-S
Foron Brill. Yellow RO-E
Foron Brill. Blue AS-BG
Foron Dark Blue RD-2RN
Taicron Deep Red XF-T
Tricron Yellow Brown XF-T
Tricron Navy Blue XF-T
Taicron Golden Yellow WRST
Tricron Crimson XFNT
Tricron Blue XFT
Tricron Yellow HWT
Tricron Black WWKSNT
Tricron Black WWGST
Tricron Scarlet XFNT
Tricron B.Blue SEGLT
Jakazo l Yellow DSR
Jakazol Yellow HE 4G
Jakazol Yellow HE 4R
Jakazol Red DSB NEW
Jakazol Red ME6BL
Jakazol Blue HE GN
Jakazol Navy Blue GG
Jakazol Navy Blue HER
Jakazol Black DSG
Jakazol Yellow Me 4GL

AC 200
Sequestering Agent
Zelee DBC
Stablizer
Stagen B
Pretreatment
Serabil MIP
Anti foam
CHT Entchumer K-50
Bleaching
Hydrogen per oxide
AlkaliCaustic soda,
soda ash
Color migration
Gluber salt
Enzyme
Primafast Gold RSL
Genencore BF
Multifunction
Primagreen ECO Scour
Serazon CMS 100
Laveling agent

Peroxide killer
HK-20
Oil remover
Linaral RK
Meropan DA
Neutralizing
Acetic acid
Wash off
Asugal Albi 85
Fixing agent
Permafix Eco
Softening agent
Permasoft CWS ,
Tubingal 4748
Weiking agent
Permalose Tm
Buffer
Mataxil NXB
Silicon
Tubingal MSQ,
Tubinga RGH

FINISHING
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all
bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the
market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every
kind of fiber
Object of finishing:
To improve the appearance of the fabric, that is making it more attractive or lustrous by
operations.
To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, Stiffening etc.
To improve wearing qualities of the fabric by making it shrink resistant, crease resistant,
or free from pills and soiling.
To increase weight of the fabric.
To cover faults in the original fabric.

To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn without ironing.
To impart special properties to the fabric for specific end use.
To set the texture of certain fabrics and make others dimensionally stable.
To produce stronger and more durable fabrics.
To produce novelty effects.
To increase service ability and wash fastness.

Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing:
2) Mechanical finishing:
Chemical Finishing:
Chemical is used for it. Used to make glossy protection and it's expensive.
It's also two types:
1. Temporary: Starching, Weighting, Softening etc.
2. Permanent/Durable: Mercerizing, Resin, Water proof, Fire proof etc.
Physical/Mechanical Finishing:
Chemical is not used it. Used to control dimension and to improve appearance and handle. It's
less expensive.
Its two types:
1. Temporary: Calendaring, etc
2. Permanent/Durable: Rising, Sanforizing etc.
Finishing effects:

Easy - care
Crease recovery.
Dimensional stability.
Good abrasion resistance.
Improved tear strength.
Good sew ability
Soft or stiff handle.
Shine or luster

Flow chart of Finishing Section:

Finishing Section

Open fabric

Tube fabric

Dewatering (Squzzer)
machine

Slitting machine

Stentering

Drying Machine

Compacting
machine

Tube compacting
machine

Final
Inspection

Final
Inspection

Machinery List - Section: Finishing

Description
Ballooning Squeezer

Quantity
01

OPEN Compactor

01

Tube Compactor

01

Stenter machine
SLITTING MACHINE

01
1

Dryer machine

Origin/Brand

Ballooning Squeezer
Object:
To extract excess amount of water by squeezing.
To apply softener to the fabric.
Apply over feed to give some compaction.
Open the fabric from the rope form.
Width wise stretch the fabric.
Plait the fabric
U

COMPACTOR
U

Function
To control shrinkage.
To control width.
To control GSM.
To smooth fabric.
Heat seating of fabric for lycra.

Quality control & Quality assurance

Quality control
Quality control concerned with the evaluation of test data & its application of the textile
process, raw materials, intermediate products & final products.
It is related not only with the cost of maintaining but also concerned with the presentation of
tangible values to measure quality & change in quality. In order to control quality one must
know about the consumers expectations.
Quality assurance
Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned & systematic actions necessary to
provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements for
quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality
of the material in process & various stages of its manufacturing.

Object of quality control

Research/ analysis.
Selection of raw material.
Product testing.
Specification test.
Should be given economic requirements.
Quality assurance & so on.

Quality Management System: Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following
two major parts

Quality
control

On line

Off line

On line quality control

On line quality control comprises with the new raw material, process control & finish fabric
inspection.
1.
Raw material control:
As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality assurance department must
ensure that the best quality of raw material is used in the production.
The chemical should be with a known concentration & high degree of purity.
The dye & chemical should be compatible with each other.
The fabric must be without faults, with uniform absorbency, & whiteness as per
requirement of the subsequent process.
2. Process control:

The method chosen for the process must be provided with the necessary parameters,
Temperature, PH, water level, Specific gravity should be checked at each stage of processes.
During dyeing samples are taken, & shade match with lab dip & when match allow for
bath drop.
If not properly match topping is done until the required shade come.
After neutralization sample is collected & match with lab dip.
Sample is collected after fixation & matched.
Last of all after softening sample is collected & match with lab dip.
Each batch should be match with each other.
During finishing temperature, speed, padder pressure, over feed should be controlled
as per recommendation.
G.S.M, width, spirality etc should be maintained as per buyer requirement.
3. Finish Fabric Inspection:
To ensure that only acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments & proper
quantity of shipment is received from the supplier.
Point calculation system
Defect area
Point
13

36

69

9 above

For hole in fabric

Calculation of point is done by

Actual pint

Actual grade point = Inspected total yards 100

If point grade is below 40 then the fabric is ok. If the grade point is more than the 40
points then inform it to respective officer.
The fabric is also checking for the shading defect in side by side & length. Any shading
will be notified to the manager using inspected reports. Roll wise color uniformity card is
maintained for identification of shade variations.
The result of fabric inspection shall be recorded in fabric inspection report.

On-line test:
For pretreatment
PH test
Absorbency test
Whiteness test
Water quality test
For Dyeing
Shade matching check
PH check
Wash fastness check
Machine checking

Off-line Quality Control:

TTGL has all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials used & processed materials.
There are two types of material are tested in laboratory for the purpose of quality control.
There are
Fabric
Raw materials
Fabric testing:
All the off-line tests for finished can be grouped as follows
a. Physical tests
b. Chemical tests

Physical Tests:
GSM of Fabric
Abrasion resistance / Pilling
Dimensional stability test
Spirality test
Color fastness to rubbing test (Dry /
Wet)
Bursting strength test (For Knitted
fabric)

Chemical Tests:
Color Fastness to light
Color Fastness to heat
Color Fastness to actual laundering
Color Fastness to Chlorinated water
Color Fastness to water spotting
Color Fastness to perspiration
Color Fastness to Seawater

 Flammability test
Fibre analysis
PH test

Spray test (water repellency)

Phenolic yellowing
Color Fastness to washing

Common dyeing faults with their remedies

Name: Uneven dyeing
Causes:
Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
Improper color dosing.
Using dyes of high fixation property.
Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
By ensuring even pretreatment.
By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
Name: Batch to Batch Shade variation
Causes:
Fluctuation of Temperature.
Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
Dyes lot variation.
Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals.
Maintain the same liquor ratio.
Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
Name: Patchy dyeing effect
Causes:
Entanglement of fabric.

Faulty injection of alkali.

Improper addition of color.
Due to hardness of water.
Due to improper salt addition.
Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
Uneven heat in the machine, etc

Remedies:
By ensuring proper pretreatment.
Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
Proper salt addition.
Name: Roll to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation
Causes:
Poor migration property of dyes.
Improper dyes solubility.
Hardness of water.
Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals.
Proper m/c speed.
Use of soft water
Name: Crease mark
Causes:
Poor opening of the fabric rope
Shock cooling of synthetic material
If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Reducing the m/c load
Higher liquor ratio
Name: Dye spot
Causes:
Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the
large un-dissolved particles are removed
Name: Wrinkle mark
Causes:

 Poor opening of the fabric rope

Shock cooling of synthetic material
High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel speed & pumps speed.
Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
Higher liquor ratio
Name: Softener Mark
Causes:
Improper mixing of the Softener.
Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
Maintaining proper reel speed & pumps speed.
Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

Sample section
Pattern and Marker making section
Cutting section
Sewing section
Finishing section

Apparel manufacturing
31TU

U31T

Apparel manufacturing is combination of group work. Different section is related with this apparel
manufacturing. We know that fabric is the basic materials for apparel manufacturing. Fabric may
be woven or knitted. Woven fabrics are converted into Shirt, Pant, Coat, Skirt, Dresses, Jackets and
others suitable apparel. Knitted fabrics are converted into T-Shirt, Polo-Shirt, Trouser, Sweater,
Underwear, Skirt and others apparel. Mainly dyed or printed finished fabrics are cut for apparel
manufacturing. Different designed fabrics are made in garments to fulfill the buyer requirements.
Garments are the final achievement of textile processing, which started from fiber as a raw
material of finished goods. After completing spinning, weaving, wet processing; the materials are
ready for apparel manufacturing. Apparel is made generally from dyed or printed fabrics. The
process of making a garment according to the pattern, desired design and style is called garment
manufacturing.

Garments Manufacturing process flow chart

Garments are produced in a line of sequence, which is either manually controlled or computerized.
Anyhow, the sequence of a garment manufacturing is as follows:

Design/Sketch
Basic Block
Working Pattern
Sample Garments
Approved Sample
Costing
Production Pattern
Grading
marker making
fabric spreading
cutting
sorting or bundling
sewing
ironing & finishing
inspection
packing
cartooning
Dispatching

Operations of Garments Manufacturing are given below in details:

SL
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6

7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14

Operation

Job

Design/Sketch

It is given by buyers to manufacturers containing

sketches including measurements of particular styles
Basic Block
Basic block is an individual component of garments
without any style of design (without Allowance, Style,
Design)
Working
When a pattern is made for a particular style with net
Pattern
dimension regarding the basic block along with
allowance then it is called working pattern.
Sample
To make a sample, this will be approved by buyer.
Garments
After making a sample, it is sent to buyer for approval
to rectify the faults
Approved
After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to buyers.
Sample
If it is ok then , then it is called approved sample
Fabric Costing
Costing
Making Charged
Trimmings
Profit
Production
Making allowance with net dimension for bulk
Pattern
production
Grading
If the buyer requires different sizes, so should be
grade as S, M, L, XL, XXL
Marker Making Marker is a thin paper which contains all the
components for different sizes for a particular style of
garments
Fabric
To spread the fabrics on table properly for cutting
Spreading
Cutting
To cut fabric according to marker dimension
Sorting &
Bundling
Sewing
Ironing &
Finishing

15
16
17

Inspection
Packing
Cartooning

18

Dispatching

Sort out the fabric according to size and for each size
make in individual bundles
To assemble a full garments
After sewing we will get a complete garment which is
treated with steam ironing & also several finishing
processes are done for example extra loose thread
cutting
Should be approved as initial sample
Treated by Polyethylene bag
After packing, it should be placed In cartooning for
export
Ready for export

Method
Manual/
Computerized
Manual/
Computerized
Manual/
Computerized
Manual
Manual
Manual

Manual/
Computerized
Manual/
Computerized
Manual/
Computerized
Manual/
Computerized
Manual/
Computerized
Manual
Manual
Manual

Manual
Manual
Manual
Manual

Sample section
Sampling of garments is given great emphasis. It determines the approval of future orders from
buyers and fetches business for a garment manufacturing or export company. Sampling is one of
key elements of the pre-production processes in a garment industry. Before a manufacturer
produces bulk orders, a prior sampling of styles is done to get approvals and jumpstart the
fabrication of garments. Samples of garments work as a bridge between buyers and the producers.
Sampling is not just for buyers, but the manufacturers can also derive estimates of yarn
consumption for development of fabric, dyeing, printing, and stitching cost for a particular style or
pattern given by the buyer. Companies can have a separate sampling department or a
merchandiser, who works closely with the sampling section to source raw materials, and processes
for developing a quality product for an affordable price
The details attached to the garments sample:
After the confirmation of order each sample sent to the buyer has the following deails attached to
it with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both what the buyer has demanded
and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used
Ref no.
Color.
Fabric Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no/size
Store

Persons involved in sampling

Salesman samples or promotional samples
Proto samples or fit samples
Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples
Wash test samples
Photo samples
Fashion show samples
Pre-production samples
Production samples
Shipment samples

Sample required for different buyers

1. Kappahl

Style
sample

Counter
sample

P.P sample

These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples are
needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available
similar fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications
Required sample: 1set for each sizes

These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims.

These samples should be strictly as per the specifications in the order sheets.
Required sample: 1set for each sizes

These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual
production fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production
will be like these samples
Required sample: 1set for each sizes

These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyers confirmation for
shipment. Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer
Production may check these samples for everything or anything
Required sample: 2 set for each sizes
sample

2. Centex

PP sample

Shipment
sample

These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual production
fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these
samples
Required sample: 2 sets for each sizes
These samples are to be sent after shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with all
labels, tags, etc.
Required sample: 1 set for each sizes

Machine used in sample section

M/C Name
SINGLE NEEDLE
OVERLOCK

FLAT LOCK

SNAP BUTTON
RIB CUTTING

Brand
JUKI
GEMSY
JUKI
SIRUBA
PEGASUS
SUNSTAR
JUKI CYLINDER
JUKI- F/BED
PEGASUS CYLINDER
PEGASUSF/BED
SIRUBA CYLINDER
SIRUBA F/BED

QUANTITY
9
2
1
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1

Pattern making
An ornamental design or decorative element in a fabric . pattern may be produced either by the
construction of the fabric or by applying designs, by other means. For example printing,
embroidery.
Pattern is hard paper which is made by following all the specification of each and individual
components.
Pattern making method:
1. Computerized pattern making
2. manual pattern making
Computerized pattern making
At most large manufacturers, patterns are made on a computer with computer aided design (CAD)
systems, the pattern maker manipulating small graphic patterns on the computer screen with a
hand-held control device. Geometry drives can make an infinite number of changes to the shapes
and sizes the pattern including creating new design lines or adding pleats, fullness, and seam
allowances. To allow pattern makers to make patterns manually on a computer, another system
has been developed allowing the pattern maker to work life size on a sensitized table with
traditional tools and styles that is attached to the table and the computer.
Tools of computerized pattern making method
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Computer
Cad software: Euro cad
Digitizing table
Digitizing camera
Plotter machine

Block Pattern or manual pattern making

Block pattern is a basic pattern without any style features and incorporates the measurements,
proportions and posture of the body for which garments, developed from this pattern, are
intended. Block pattern can be developed by either of the following methods.

Tools of Block Pattern or manual pattern making

1. Straight pins
2. Straight pin holder
3. Scissor
4. Pencils and pens
5. Rulers
6. Curve rulers
7. Hanger hooks
8. Push pins
9. scotch tape
10. Black twill tape
11. Tracing wheels
12. Metal weight
13. Measuring tape
14. Chalk

MARKER MAKING:
It is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style
of garments. It gives special instruction for cutting. It can be done both manually and
computerized
CONSIDERABLE POINTS BEFORE MARKER MAKING:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Fabric width (1/2) higher than marker width.

Fabric length higher than marker length (1 + 1).
The grain line should be parallel to the line of Wales in knit fabrics
.All the pattern pieces of garments should be along the same direction when laid on an
asymmetric fabric.
5. Considered garments production planning.

Marker making method:

Manual Method:
In TTL , marker Is made I n manual method. The method of marker making which is done by the
hand of people with his own planning is known as manual method of marker making
Marker Efficiency:
The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plan. The following
formula is used to measure the efficiency
Marker efficiency =

Area of the pattern in the marker plan

X 100%
Total area of the marker plan

Factors Related To Marker Efficiency:

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Marker Planner
Size of Garments
Marker Length
Pattern Engineering
Fabric Characteristics
Marker Making Method
Marker Width
8. Style of Garments

Minimization Of Fabric Wastages Outside The Marker:

1.
2.
3.
4.

Ends of Ply Losses

Loss of Fabric in Roll

Selvedge Loss
Purchase Loss

Cutting section
Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garment industry. For a little mistake full
order may be cancelled. With the false measurement a big portion of garment may employed.
With very care this section is handled
Objectives of cutting section:
1. Prepare fabrics for readymade garments.
2. Cut fabrics according to design and pattern.
3. Prepare fabrics for sewing and also for printing and embroidery
Flow chart of cutting section
Finished fabric from dyeing & finishing

Fabric Inspection

Relaxation

Test of GSM, Diameter, shed, shrinkage, twisting, fastness etc

Pattern making

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Cutting

Sorting (Sticker, Numbering)

Bundling

Cut panel checking

Input section

Send to sewing section

Fabric Inspection:
When the fabrics are received from the dyeing and finishing section, it needs to be checked,
because, faulty fabrics can be supplied from dyeing and finishing. But the cutting section has to
check it. Otherwise the end products will be faulty. For this, the fabric is being inspected by the
quality inspector of the cutting section. They check the fabric fully and find out the faults. Then
mark it so that, these faulty portion of the fabric can be rejected during spreading and cutting.
Then the fabric is being stored for relaxation.
Fabric Relaxation:
When the fabric comes from the dyeing and finishing, the fabric remains a slightly hot. In dryer,
stenter and compactor heat is applied on fabric. So moisture is removed from the fabric and it is
not in actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal temperature and pressure for a certain
time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and regains its original nature. This
process is called fabric relaxation.
Relaxation Period:

Fabric relaxation is performed for a certain period. This time is varied from fabric to fabric. But the
minimum time of relaxation is twelve (12) hours. This time also may vary according to the buyers
recommendation. After fabric relaxation, different tests are performed for maintaining the proper
quality

Fabric Spreading:
This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on top of the
other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the
cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained from the
cut order plan. Number of plies depends on:
Capacity of the cutting machine

 Volume of production
Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
Thickness of fabric
Objects:
I.
II.
III.

To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as
to length and width and without tension.
To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garment marker plans
and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at a time.
To make every ply plain and flat.

Types of Fabric Spreading:

The spreads can be of two basic types:
1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length.
2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one
step having the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to
be cut precludes the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply
lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed.

Fig: Fabric spreading

Requirements of fabric spreading:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Alignment of fabric plies

Correct ply tension
Fabric must be flat
Elimination of fabric faults
Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
Elimination of static electricity
Avoidance of fusion of piles

8. Avoidance of distortion in spread

9. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles
10. Matching checks or stripes
Fabric Spreading Method:
Manual method: in TTL , fabric spreading is done by manual method by hand.
By Hand: Fabric roll is spreaded on the table by two laborers according to the length & width of
marker. Sometimes it is done by entering a rod which is made by wood or metal in the center
paper table which is present in the center of the fabric roll.

Types of Fabric Lay:

Names of fabric
lay
1.Straight Lay

Description

2.Stepped lay

Every ply is not spreaded according to the full

length of marker but in stepped manner. It is
needed different types of marker for steeped lay

3.From right to
left

This type of lay is more wide and open. Fabric is

always spreaded in the same direction

4.From right to
right

This type of lay is more wide and open so that

more useful. It is needed for special spreading
machines to make this lay.

5.Zigzag lay

Fabric is spreaded without cutting from one end to

the other according to marker length and this is
continued. Is this way zigzag lay is made. This type
of lay is more used in garments industries. It is not
good for asymmetric fabric

Every ply is placed according to the marker length.

It is most common and most of the garments are
used this type of lay.

Figure

Fabric Cutting
Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments.
Using the markers made from graded patterns and in accordance with the issue plan, fabrics are
cut to prepare garment assembly. This is the major operation of the cutting room, of all of the
operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very
little can be done to rectify serious mistakes.
Requirements of cutting
Precision of cut: To ensure the cutting of fabric accurately according to the line drown of the
marker plan.
Clean edge: By avoiding the fraing out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting edge must be smooth
clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or clean edge.
Consistency in cutting: All the sizing safe of the cutting parts should be same of knife should be
operated of the right angle of the fabric lay.
Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics: Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)
Thickness of fabric.
Design characteristics of finished garment.
Machines and tables used.
Types of Cutting

Fully manual:

Hand operated scissor

Manually operated power knife:

Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife

Cutting equipment in TTL:

Die cutting
Notcher
Drill

Fabric cutting table

Straight knife cutting machine

6
Machine name- Straight knife cutting machine
Brand mark
Origin China
Quantity- 9

Fig: Straight knife machine

Straight knife:
Most cutting room which cut garments in bulk, but not in sufficient bulk to justify the purchase of
computer controlled cutters, makes use of straight knives.
Requirements of cutting:
1. Precision in cut.
2. Clean edge.
3. Infused edge.
4. Consistency in cutting.
5. Support.
Features:
1.

2.
3.

Cutting knife is straight in shape.

Blade length 8-10
Blade width 1.5 cm,
Blade thickness - .5 mm,
Knife is driven by electric power.
Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting.

4. The machines consist of base plate, electric motor, handle, knife, knife guard, stand,
roller wheel.
5. Base plate usually on roller wheel.
6. Handle for the cutter to direct the blade.
1. Blade edge: Straight edge, Weave edge, saw edge, scattered edge, but straight edge is
mostly used.
2. . Most commonly used in garments industry in Bangladesh (99% used).
M/C description: The elements of a straight knife consists of
a) A base plate Usually in rollers for easy movement.
b) An electric motor.
c) Handle for the cutter to direct the blade.
d) Knife (Reciprocating motion).
e) Knife guard.
f) Grinding wheel used to sharp the knife during cutting.
g) Stand.
h) Roller wheel to move the machine over cutting table easily.
Advantages:
1. Comparatively cheap.
2. Can be easily transferred from one place to another place.
3. Round corners can be cut more precisely than even round knife.
4. Production speed is very good as up to 10 heights can be cut at a time.
5. Garment components can directly be separated from fabric lays.
6. Fabric can be cut from any angle.
9. Most commonly used in garments industries of Bangladesh (99%).
Disadvantages:
1. Sometimes deflecting may occur due to the weight of the motor.
2. Knife deflection is high in risk, when any height is too high.
3. Sometimes accident may happen.
Precaution to avoid blade deflection:
1.
2.
3.

Reducing lay height.

The weight of the motor should be light.
The operator should be skilled and conscious.

Spreading and Cutting Stage Problem:

Effect
Lack of Sufficient fabric Relaxation
Too many no of plies during spreading
Excessive dragging during spreading
Blunt knife edges

Cause
Operators are not allowing sufficient time for relaxation
Ply height was found to be more than 7
Higher dragging tension maintained between spreader
roller to lay
Edges of knife are not sharp and it leads to uneven shaping

Sticker Tagging:
After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker tagging is an important
part in this section. Due to fabric numbering or batching the sticker is tag on the cutting fabric
surface.

Fig: Sticker Tagging for Batching

Bundling:
After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments components in stack form is
shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on
each pattern.

Sewing section
After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined and sewn
as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer requirement.
Sewing section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing
machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of
types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations.

Machine profile for sewing section

U

M/C Name

Single Needle

brand

Juki
Juki (AUTO)
Brother
Gemsy
siruba

vertical
two Needle
OVER LOCK

Juki
Juki
Juki
Juki(AUTO)
Juki
Gemsy
Pegasos
Siruba
Siruba 3-thread
Juki -6 thread
Juki -6 thread (Auto)

FLAT LOCK

JUKI-CYLINDER(auto)
JUKI-CYLINDER
JUKI-COM(auto

quantity
129
65
42
35
6
9
3
1
79
32
12
51
20
4
12
9
25
14
17

SUNSTAR
SIRUBA
Gemsy
JUKI-FLAT BED
PEGASOS-F/BED
PEGASOS-CYLINDER
SIRUBA-F/BED
Total

1
14
14
21
12
8
2
637

Special types of M/C

M/C Name
BACK TAPE
PMD KANSAI
PICOTING
BUTTON HOLE
BUTTON HOLE
BUTTON STICH
BUTTON STICH
BARTACK
BARTACK
FEED OF ARM (FOA)
FEED OF ARM (FOA)
SMOKE MACHINE
THREAD TRIMMER
RIB CUTTER
SNAP BUTTON
CUTTING MACHINE
METAL DETECTOR
THREAD SUCKER
SNAP TESTING

Brand
KANSAI
KANSAI
KANSAI
JUKI
JUKI
JUKI
JUKI
BROTHER
SUPREME
JUKI
SIRUBA
SIRUBA
GRAND

VACUAM TABLE

MODERN

UZU
KM
HASHIMA
MODERN

Raw materials for sewing

1. Different parts of Cutting fabric for garments
2. Trimmings & accessories

Quantity
2
5
4
6
3
6
2
2
3
5
4
6
10
6
17
9
2
2
1
56

Different parts of Cutting fabric for garments:

When the dyed fabrics are cut for different garments, then it send to the sewing section for
sewing.
Trimmings & accessories
In garments without fabrics all are accessories or trimmings. Its includes sewing thread, button,
interlining, zipper, main label, care label, size label, tissue paper, ball head pin, silica gee bag,
carton, rib and so on. Garments Accessories/Trims can be describe in two broad categoriesSwing Accessories - These Accessories are used in Swing purpose.
Sewing accessories are given the bellow:

Sewing thread
interlining
Elastic
Elastic thread
Label
Main label
Size label
Care label
Zipper

Lace
Batch /logo
Rib
Twill tape
Satin tape
Tube dusting
Flat dusting
Round dusting

Figure of different sewing accessories

Fig: Sewing thread

Fig: Interlining

Fig: Elastic

Fig: Elastic thread

Fig: Zipper

Fig: Twill tape

Fig; Satin tape

Fig: Round dusting

Fig: Tube dusting

Fig:Main label

Fig; Size Label

Fig:Care label
Label
Finishing Accessories- These Accessories are used after swing but in finishing purpose
Button
Snap
Shank Button
Rivet
Collar stand
Collar Stay
Carton
Hanger
Eyelet
Stopper
Eye let
figure of some finishing Accessories

Fig: Plastic button

Button

Fig: Price ticket

Draw cord
Back Board
Clip
butter fly
Hook & Eye
Price Ticket
Poly Bag
gum tape
bar code
ball head pin

Fig: Metal button

Fig: Snap button

Fig: carton

Fig: Tag pin

Fig: Eye let

Fig: Lock tag pin

Fig: stopper

Fig: Size strip

Fig: Hang tag

Fig: Hanger

Stitch:
Stitch is one unit of conformation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a strand(s) and/or a
loop(s) of thread into or through a material at uniformity spaced intervals to form a series of
stitches.
The simplest definition of stitch is a formation of thread for the purpose of making a seam.
Stitch may be referred both to the thread interloping or interlocking used to make seams.
Stitch quality measured with:

Stitch size.
Stitch tension.
Stitch sequence.
Elongation.
Elasticity.
Fabric distortion

Stitch forming types

Stitch forming types Description

Figure

Intra-looping

Intra-looping is passing of a loop

of thread through another loop
formed by the same thread.

Interloping

Interloping is passing of a loop of

thread through another loop
formed by a different thread.

Interlacing

Interlacing is passing of a thread

over or around another thread or
loop of another thread,.

Stitch class type

Stitch class
Class 100 chain stitches

Application
This stitch class is generally used for
Button sewing, Bag closing, Padding operations, Trousers,
Hemming, Belt loops, Snap fasteners, Cuffs tacks etc.
Class 200 stitches originating as hand Stitch Class 200 is generally used in- Outer edges of
tailored jackets., Leg opening of Pants., Sleeve edges of
short sleeve shirt
Class 300 lock stitches
Stitch class 300 is generally used for top stitching, lingerie,
swim wear, sails etc. For a seam joining of facing collars
pockets and many similar garments parts.
Class 400 multi thread chain
This class is mainly used for main seaming as in jeans, belt
loops, binding, attaching elastic, hemming etc .Also used in
combination with an over edge stitch for economy of seam
joining and neatening in bulk production.
Stitches Class 500 over edge
This stitch class is used for but edge seaming , wetting,
surging, knit goods etc. This type of stitch can be used to
provide a decorative neatening edge if sewn with high
stitch density and where narrow dense stitch is required.
Specially used for mens wear. Particularly suitable for
trousers/pants
Stitch class 600- Covering chain
These stitches are commonly used for binding,
stitch.
attaching elastic, under wear, swim wear, interlock
garments etc.Mostly used in making a flat, comfortable

elastic joining.Joining braid or bi-adding to the edges of

garments.

Seam
A seam is a joint between two pieces of fabric or it is the application of a series of stitches or
stitch types to one or several thickness of material

Seam class
Class-1, superimposed seam.
Class-2, Lapped seam.
Class-3, Bound seam.

Class-4, Flat seam.

Class-5, Decorative seam.
Class-6, Edge Neatening seam.
Class-7, like as Lapped seam.

Application
Used to create neat load bearing seams for
lingerie, shirts, etc
Inner seam of long sleeve. Side seam of jeans
etc.
To attach elastic in the edge of garments. In
Neck edge of basic T-shirt, waist band,
womans blouse, babys nightgown, child
bishop dress, camisole etc.
Hem of knitted underwear. For decorative
garments items
To produce gathering on fabric.
To make pleat in the garments.
To attach ribbon etc.
In side edges of a pants side seam.
Hems of skirt, shirt etc.
Button holes.
Inserted elastic on the leg of a swimming dress.
Band and lace attachment to the lower edge of

Class-8, Class 8.

sleeve.
Elastic braid on the edge of the bra.
Belt loop as used on jeans, rain coat.
Loop for braid penetration in children wear.

Sewing sequence of polo shirt

Process
no
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20

Process name

machine

SMV

Man/process

Pocket rolling (hem)

Pocket iron
Pocket mark
Pocket attach
Double placket rolling
Double placket iron
Body mark for placket join
Double placket attach
Scissoring
Placket nose tack
Shoulder join &pocket servicing
Shoulder top stitch
Collar servicing
Collar tack with body
Collar joint
Collar piping
Label mark
Label top stitch
Placket 1/16 top stitch
Placket folding run stitch (kacha)

S/N
IM
HEL
S/N
S/N
HEL
HEL
S/N
HEL
S/N
O/L
F/L
O/L
S/N
O/L
F/L
HEL
S/N
S/N
S/N

0.25
0.2
0.23
0.75
0.25
0.23
0.2
0.45
0.25
0.25
0.30
0.25
0.30
0.30
0.50
0.26
0.23
0.42
0.48
0.70

1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2

Placket end tack

Placket box
Sleeve contrast joint
Set sleeve with body
Sleeve joint
Arm hole top stitch
Thread cut
Body hem
Thread cut
Care label attach
Side seam
Sleeve contrast top stitch
Sleeve folding top stitch
Side band tack & placket security
rack
Side band top stitch
Button hole
Button Attach
Finishing thread cut

21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38

Total SMV
Total machine SMV
Total helper SMV

15.97
14.14
1.83

S/N
S/N
O/L
HEL
O/L
F/L
HEL
F/L
HEL
S/N
O/L
S/N
S/N
S/N

0.33
0.30
0.35
0.23
0.75
0.30
0.23
0.26
0.23
0.23
0.92
1.02
0.75
0.45

1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
1

S/N
B/H
B/A
HEL

0.92
0.30
0.40
1.2

2
1
1
3

Total manpower
No. of machine
No. of HP & IM

47
36
11

Here,

1
2
3
4
5
6
7

Symbol
S/N
IM
HEL
O/L
F/L
B/H
B/A
SMV

Name
Single needle machine
Iron man
Helper
Over lock
Flat lock
Button holing
Button attaching
Standard Minute Value

Quantity
21
1
10
8
4
1
1
15.97

Sewing sequence of Tang Top

Process
no.
1

Process name

machine

SMV

Shoulder joint(1 side)

O/L

0.24

Man/
Process
1

Label attach
Neck piping & Scissoring
Neck 1/16 Tack
Shoulder joint(2 side)
Neck tack
Armhole piping
Scissoring
Armhole 1/16 tuck
Side seam
Armhole tuck
Thread cut
Body hem
Sticker remove & finishing thread cut

2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14

Total SMV
Total machine SMV
Total helper SMV

4.48
3.41
1.07

S/N
F/L
S/N
O/L
S/N
F/L
HEL
S/N
O/L
S/N
Hel
F/L
HEL

Total manpower
No. of machine
No. of HP & IM

0.26
0.28
0.25
0.24
0.26
0.55
0.20
0.32
0.50
0.26
0.20
0.25
0.67

1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
17
13
4

Here,

1
2
3
4
5
6
7

Symbol
S/N
IM
HEL
O/L
F/L
B/H
B/A
SMV

Name
Single needle machine
Iron man
Helper
Over lock
Flat lock
Button holing
Button attaching
Standard Minute Value

Quantity
5
0
1
4
4
0
0
4.48

SMV (standard minute value):

SMV stands for standard minute value. It is very important for garments especially in
production section. It is mainly done to control the speed of production.
SMV Calculation:
SMV =

+
60

Line Target =

. 60

Example:
Let,
Observed time of the total process of a polo shirt= 946.2 sec.
Allowance= 20%
No. of workers = 47
Working hours =1 hr
Efficiency = 100%
946.2
SMV =
+ 2 = 15.97
60
Line Target =

47 1 60
100% = 176
15.97

Printing section
Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In
properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to resist washing and friction.
Textile printing is related to dyeing but in dyeing properly the whole fabric is uniformly covered
with one colour, whereas in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only,
and in sharply defined patterns.
Screen printing
Screen printing is a printing technique that uses a woven mesh to support an ink-blocking
stencil to receive a desired image. The attached stencil forms open areas of mesh that transfer
ink or other printable materials which can be pressed through the mesh as a sharp-edged
image onto a substrate. A fill blade or squeegee is moved across the screen stencil, forcing or
pumping ink through the mesh openings to wet the substrate during the squeegee stroke.
Basically, it is the process of using a mesh-based stencil to apply ink onto a substrate, whether
it be t-shirts, posters, stickers, vinyl, wood, or other material.

Sl.
No

Machine Name

Total Nos

1
2
3
4
5

Auto Screen Printing Machine

Manual Flatbed Printing
Expose Machine
Heat Press Machine
Fusing Conveyer

1
2
4

Different types of Printing:

Pigment Print
Rubber print
High Density Print
Plastisol Print
Puff print
Gliter print
Rainbow print
Pearl scent

Radium print
Foil print
Jel print
Metallic print
Heat transfer (this system is not used)
Flock Print (this system is not used)
Discharge print

Figure of some print fabric:

Plastisol Print

Non PVC

High Density Print

Discharge Print

Pigment Print

Puff Print

Embroidery section
Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or
yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills,
and sequins. Embroidery is most often used on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim,
stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide variety of thread or yarn color.

Machine profile for knitting section

Sl. No

Machine name

Brand

Quantity

1
2
3
4
5

Embroidery
Embroidery
Embroidery
Leisure cut m/c
Fusing m/c

TAJIMA
TAJIMA
SWF
WINDA
HASIMA

1, 20 heads
1, 12 heads
2, 15 heads
1
1

Types of Embroidery:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

All-overs.
Trim.
Collar
Applique Embroidery.
Hand Cut Embroidery.
Batch Embroidery.

Embroidery faults
Stitch gap
Oil spot
Miss thread
Measurement up-down
Needle hoe

Finishing section
Finishing section is another important part for apparel industry. After production finishing guys
attach hang tag, bar-code sticker, price sticker etc properly according to buyer advice or demand
and after that they will input that garment item into a poly bag.
Finishing is the addition of special detailing such as pleats, embroidery and screen printing to a
garments. This includes hand stitching (unseen handwork done inside collars and lapel to given
them shape) and its automated substitutes. This may also include adding buttons, hooks, eyes or
trims as well as clipping loose threads. All finishing of moderate and lower priced garments is done
by machine.

Process flow of finishing section

Thread ssuction
Pressing or ironing

Thread suction:
In this section, to clean the thread parts from the garments by the air suction.
Machine profile:
Machine name: Thread suction
Origin: Taiwan

Pressing or ironing
Pressing or ironing is one of the most important tasks in finishing section. It is done for giving final
finishing appearance to the apparel. After that, apparels are ready for packing.
Some pressing termed under pressing may be done in the course of assembling a garments for
example, ironing a collar. Most pressing is done after assembly folded instead of pressed. Although
pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated process exists that apply force and steam
to garments placed over a body form
Categories of pressing:
No pressing: Here pressing is not required, e.g. knitted garments such as undergarments, briefs
etc.
Minimum pressing: Only heat is applied to garments, such as sweater, T-shirt etc.
Under pressing: Before sewing some parts of garments are pressed for its proper finishing,
such as pants, coats/blazer etc.

Final pressing: After completing the garments final pressing is done then it is packed to a poly bag
for shipment.
Permanent pressing: Many fabric effects are made by heavy pressing; this is known as
permanent pressing, e.g. pleat of shirt, dirt of pant, lapel of coat etc.

Pressing equipment and methods:

1.
2.
3.
4.

Iron
Steam process
Steam air finish
Steam tunnel

Ironing:
This is a finishing process done by subjecting a cloth to heat & pressure with or without steam to
remove unintended creases and to impart a flat appearance to the or garments. Also, pressing is
done to introduce creases in the garments, in garments industries, pressing is called Ironing.

Objects of Ironing:

Remove of unwanted creases and crinkles.

To apply creases where necessary.
Shaping.
Under pressing.
Under pressing.
Final pressing

Folding:
After pressing garments are given crinkle according to the specific volume or standard volume is
known as folding. Folding types are depends on the different types fabric/garments. There are four
types of folding for shirt, they are1.
2.
3.
4.

Standup: Collar is situated when it is crinkle with body at 90 angel.

Semi standup: Collar is situated when it is crinkle with body at 45 angel.
Flat pack: Collar is totally laid down on the body of shirt.
Hanger pack: Shirt is exported with hanger packing form.

Packing
Packing is one of the most important parts of apparel manufacturing process. After completing the
entire manufacturing task, apparel is required to pack. In finishing section, packing is the last steps
before storing. Various types of packing are done and it depends on the type of apparel. After
packing, it placed in carton as per instruction. After cartooning, carton is stored in store section.
Then carton is delivered from the store for export. Types of Packing in Finishing Section: Different
types of packing are done in finishing section.
Followings are the most used packing types.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Stand up pack : Shirt (900 angle)

Flat pack : Sportswear/ shirt/ trouser
Hanger pack : Blazer, coats, pants etc
Semi stand up pack : Shir
tHalf fold pack : Pant

Poly used for packing: PE (soft).

Used of poly depends on the buyers requirement. Buyer also noticed about folding, packing &
cartooning.

Types of Carton Packing: After packing, cartooning is done according to apparel size and color
Most used Carton packing types are given below.
1. Solid color solid size pack
2. Solid color assorted size pack
Size/color
Blue

S
12 pieces

3. Assorted color solid size pack

Size/color S

XL

Piece

Black

13

4. Assorted color assorted size pack

Size/color
Blue
White
Black
Total

S
2
1
2

M
1
1
1

L
1
2
2

XL
2
2
1

Pieces
6
6
6
18

Garments inspection, Quality control & Quality assurance

Garments inspection
It becomes necessary to maintain the quality right from the production stage in order to deliver a
satisfactory final product to the consumer with the right quality which in turn results in getting
continuous orders from the same customers. The garment manufacturers inspect their products
by designated responsible inspectors then only the right quality product will reach the consumer.
Under quality assurance process, the bulk production is inspected before delivered to the
customers.
All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The quality of the
garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for so therefore buyers
expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methods of inspection techniques
all through the production and prior to shipment release from factory. Following correct
inspection procedures, inspection Systems and eventually shipment release gives the clear
judgment of the quality of the garment.

Types of Inspections:
Pre-production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done to cross cheek for final
Verification of bulk fabric and trims materials , styling , cutting way , manufacturing details and
workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as per the customer requirement.
1st inline production inspection: This inspection is done at the start of production when first
production output of particular style of garments is inspected; to distinguish possible discrepancies
or variation and to do necessary corrections to be made bulk production. This is type of
inspections is done at preliminary stage of manufacturing of a style covering .mainly style
detail ,general appearance, workmanship, fabric quality . Trims and components. Lot color ,
printing ,embellishments and washing quality.
2nd inline inspection: This inspection is done during production to ensureinitial discrepancies have
been corrected and rectified. This inspection is a follow-up of the 1st inline production inspection
and is generally carried out 1st line inspection when discrepancies have been detected at the time.
Final Random Inspection: This inspection is carried out when the production of the total quantity
of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a
percentage of the garments will be inspected ,this percentage usually being stipulated by the
buyer . The AQL sampling inspection system as specified by the buyer.

Garment Defects Classification

Once the samples are selected, each article is to be individually inspected. Defects detected during
an inspection are buyer specific so therefore vary from one byyer to another. Defects are classified
within the following categories:

Critical Defect: A serious defect that can cause harm or injury to the user and/or result in a
hazardous condition.
Major Defects: A defect that falls to meet the mandatory regulations directly affecting the
usability, salability, safety and value of the merchandise or as specified by customer buyer
are considered as major defects and are generally non repairable for example fabric hole,
shading among panel, wrong measurement, foreign yarn, dye patches etc, The
measurement tolerate level may vary from customer to customer.
Minor Defects: A defect that does ot adversely affect the usability of the product but does
consists of a deviation from the original sample and may affect the sale of the of the
product. Some of these defects are due to workmanship and some can be repairable but

still can deteriorate the serviceability of the merchandise for example, stain, skip stitch,
wavy bottom hem etc.
Quality
Quality is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials of a product which are needed
for the intended end use and level of the market in which it is sold.
Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can
therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate standard of quality also costs effort. From the first
investigation to find out what the potential customer for a new product really wants, through the processes
of design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale.

Quality Assurance
"The establishment and maintenance of ALL activities and functions concerned with the
attainment of requisite quality"
Quality Control
"The systems required for programming and co-coordinating the efforts of the various groups in
an organization to maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of
Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control
Methods of quality control:
Basically two methods are used for garments quality control
i) Testing
ii) Inspection.
Garments Inspection:
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of ray materials (such as fabric,
buttons, zippers, sewing threads, trims etc.), partially completely finished garments in relation to
some standards, specifications or requirements as well as measuring the garments to check if they
meet the required measurements.
Objectives:
The main objective of inspection is the1) Detection of defects
2) Correcting the defect or defective garments as early as possible in the manufacturing process so
that times are money are not wasted later.
Garments inspection loop

inspection

correctiontion
of the defects

detection of
defects

feed back of
this defects to
appropriate
personal

determination
of cause of
defects

Garment Inspection:
Garment inspection is divided into 3 sections:
1) Raw Material Inspection:
o
o
o
o
o

Fabric
Buttons
Zippers
Sewing Threads
Trims

2)In Process Inspection:

o In marker section
o Fabric spreading section

o Cutting section
o Sewing section
o Processing and finishing
3) Final Inspection:
o
o
o
o

Size of garments,
Form fitting,
Faults of apparel,
Over all get up

Inspection of garment is done on a clock wise direction as shown in the following figure.
1. First, check appearance by holding the garment at shoulder points. Examine front and back
of the garment.
2. Lay the garment flat on the audit table. Check for garment details.
3. Open and check center front opening.
4. Inspect inside and outside of the collar and Neck. Inspect inside shoulder seams
5. Fold garment forward at shoulder and check back neck.
6. Check tension of neck seam. Stretch out to full extent.
7. Inspect left shoulder seam. Inspect left armhole seam.
8. Fold left sleeve across front of the garment. Inspect left back armhole. Check for shading.
9. Inspect left sleeve cuff outside and inside. Check tension of left cuff seam. Stretch out to
full extent.
10. Inspect left underarm. Inspect left side seam.

11. Check tension of left underarm seam. Check tension of left side seam.
12. Inspect bottom outside and inside, front and back.
13. Check tension of bottom hem. Stretch out bottom to full extent.
14. Inspect right side seam. Inspect right under arm.

15. Check tension of right side seam. Check tension of right underarm seam
16. Inspect right sleeve cuff outside and inside. Check tension of right sleeve cuff. Stretch out
to full extent.
17. Fold right sleeve across the front of the garment. Inspect right back armhole. Check for
shading.
18. Inspect right armhole seam. Inspect right shoulder seam.
19. Turn garment over. Lay garment flat on the audit table. Examine style details and examine
uncheck seam on back.
20. Turn garment inside out. Lay garment flat on audit table. Inspect for obvious defects.
Examine unchecked seams on inside.
The above steps can be used for other garment products by covering product specific quality
requirements.

Merchandising
Apparel Merchandising is a well-known job profile in apparel industry. Outside the apparel
industry, many know this term as well. Apparel merchandising is generating a lot of value to
apparel consumers.
Merchandising is the business art of matching goods to the needs and preferences of customers
to ensure shelf off take". In other word merchandising is the marketing activity responsible for
ensuring a products desirability, both in qualitative and quantitative.
Merchandising word is originated from Merchant or Shopkeeper. The duty of the shopkeeper is to
arrange right products with right price before a consumer decides to buy or knows about the
product from promotion or media. If a merchant fails to supply goods on time or fails to supply the
right packaging, customer will go to other shops and buy the products from competitors, who keep
the desired product in stock.
Merchandising is a process or function for what to buy and how to buy for sale.
Merchandiser
The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser. The merchandiser coordinates
with the design team to effectively present the product or product line. He or she develops colors
and specifications, and performs market research to determine the most effective ways to sell and
promote the product. This person needs strong communication and negotiation skills and visual
and analytical abilities. He or she also needs to be a creative and innovative thinker.
Types of Merchandising:
Two types of merchandising done in garments exports:
1. Marketing merchandising.
2. Product merchandising.
Marketing merchandising:
Main function of marketing merchandising is

Product development.
Costing.
Ordering marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products
development and it has direct contact with the buyer.

Product merchandising:
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to
finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.

A Merchandisers key responsibilities is as follows:

Product development
Market and product analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming deliveries
Designing and sampling
Costing
Raw materials
Production follow ups
Payment follows
Internal & external communication
Sampling

Process flow chart of Merchandising:

Merchandiser
Negotiation with buyer & collect order
Costing
Sample making
Get approval & placement of order
Collect accessories for production
Line balancing
Production monitoring
Final Inspection
Banking
Shipment

Lab dip
Accessories and trims
Preparing internal order sheet
Preparing purchase orders
Advising and assisting production
Advising quality department about
quality level
Giving shipping instruction and
following shippin
Helping documentation department
Taking responsibility for inspections
Following up the shipmen

Function of merchandiser
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Procuring of garments orders

Procuring of raw materials
Production of garments
Shipment of garments
Receiving of payments for garments

Purchase order sheet:

This is generally abbreviated to P.O.
The Purchase Order can be defined as a written sales contract between buyer and seller
detailing the exact merchandise to be rend from a single vendor.
It will specify payment terms, delivery dates, item identification, quantities, shipping terms
and all other obligations and conditions.
A contract to purchase merchandise may include a number of P.O. sheets defining them colorwise and size-wise quantity or as per buyers' wish
P.O. Contains
The Purchase Order is provided to the vendor as a record of the Purchase. A sample Purchase
Order sheet indicates the followingsA) Purchase Order Number
The number is assigned to the purchase order. This is used to identify a definite order and
for departmental record keeping,
B) Vendor's Name and Address
The complete name and address of the individual or company which manufacture
the merchandise.
The sequential line number which corresponds with the line on the requisition (i.e.,
the first item would be line 1; the second would be line 2, etc.).
C) Quantity
The quantity of the item being purchased.
D) UQP (Unit of Purchase)
The packaging of the item to be purchased (i.e., each, box, package, poly, dozen, carton
etc.)
E) Unit Price
The unit price of the item ordered.

F) Extended Price/ Total Price

The total quantity of the item multiplied by its unit price.
G) Description
The complete description of the item ordered in detail, i.e. color, size ratio, critical designs,
buttons and other trims, printings, sewing thread used etc,
H) Total
The total amount of all items on the purchase order. During partial shipment, color-wise
and size-wise quantity to be shipped is mentioned.
I) Ship To
Receiving Department address
J) Deliver To
The complete name and location of the individual who requested the ordered goods.
K) Dale
The date at which the purchase order was received and also the date at which the order
will have to be shipped.
L) Payment Terms
Payment terms defined by Purchasing Department of the buyer.
M) Ship Via
Shipping instructions entered by Purchasing Department.
N) F.O.B.
Shipping terms defined by Purchasing Department.
O) Freight Terms
Freight terms defined by Purchasing Department.
P) P. O. Line No.
Inquiry sheet:
This is the most important document sent by the buyer to a merchandiser to start the
merchandising activities.
The technical term of Inquiry Sheet is Product Specification Sheet
(P, S, S,). But some buyer and some manufacturer also use the term of Tech-Pack or Style-Pack.
The buyer specifies all the necessary points of a particular garment What they want to purchaseThe merchandiser has to study the P, S.S. very well for farther Activities. He must reply within
24 hours.

The Tech-Pack includes the following

Styling of the garment

Sketch of the garment
Size range
Fabric (denoted with cut-able width )
Interlining
Pocketing(for shirt or pant)
Measurement sheet

Trims/AccessoriesI. Label
Main label (with/without size)
Care label
Trucking label/DPCR label
Size label
II.
III.
IV.
V.
VI.
VII.
VIII.
IX.
X.

Tag: Hang tag, joker tag and adjustable waist tag.

Thread: color & count specified.
Button: Ligne number and types specified.
Zipper
Bow (for kids' item)
Poly
Tag pin
Gum tag
Carton

Washing details (for denim fabrics)

Embroidery details (if any)
Printing details on Art Sheet (if any)

Swatch card:
When all the items (fabric and accessories) needed to manufacture a particular style of garment
are attached on a board as a sample by using both side adhesive tapes, it is called Swatch Card.
Separate swatch card is prepared for different style of garment.
The objective of making 'Swatch Card1 is to assess the quality for production
The items attached in a swatch card are Fabric - separately for each different color.
Thread - for different count and type
Button - for different Ligne Number
Label - for different types (main, size & care label etc.) and for Different size (2T, 3T etc.).
Price tag
Poly bag

Swatch Card has to made a few for each separate department, for example

For Production Manager

For Quality Manager
For Store Office
For Buying house / Buyers representative
For Merchandiser own self
And for each production unit.

Importance of Swatch Card:

For a merchandiser this is very important for continuing his job.

Without this he cannot move his arena-It is chat where all materials and accessories are
present with their color combination. For this, it is much more important to lake approval
from the buyer as well as to give the appropriate instructions to the supplier to supply the
necessary and appropriate goods

Maintenance
Maintenance is a procedure by which we can maintain active functioning in operation
according to the behavior and utility of a particular element. Machine, buildings and other
facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use and exposure to environmental
condition. Culminates in rendering these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a
standstill. In Industry, therefore has no choice but to attend them from time to time to repair
and recondition them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically and physically
possible to do so. In engineering, we use this terminology for maintaining smooth and
uninterrupted performance of machines, tools and metallurgical characteristics in practical uses
Maintenance is carried out by electrical & mechanical departments. Now a days maintenance
is essential for the modern time industrialization
Object of maintenance
To avoid any kind of accident by checking the m/c parts & changing the parts which are
damaged.
To ensure production & delivery time to customer.
To avoid the breakdown of m/c to facilitate the smooth running of production.
To get the maximum constant production from m/c.
To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working
condition.
To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production
Types of maintenance

Maintenance

Periodic

Mechanical

Preventive

Electrical

Mechanical

Breakdown

Electrical

Mechanical

Electrical

Periodic Maintenance:
Periodic maintenance of different machines is carried out by expert engineer period of time. It
is time-based maintenance and pre-planned to perform on machine and equipments. Normally
in case of dyeing machine, complete checking of different important parts is done after 30 days.

Preventive Maintenance:
Preventive Maintenance refers to only a part of a good maintenance programmed. It consists of
routine actions taken in a planned manner to prevent break-down and to ensure operation
accuracy to the extent it is economically and practically possible to do so. Lubrication and
inspection are the two constituents of preventive maintenance. Lubrication insures long life
and safe working of equipment without mishaps. Inspection tries to detect faults in a
equipment and facility so that repairs and replacement may be undertaken before the faults
assume the proportion and shape of a break down.
Breakdown Maintenance:
Breakdown maintenance practice allows a machine or facility to run without much of routine
attention, till it actually, breaks down to be then put back into commission. Type: gravity, place
and time of breakdown are of a random nature. This practice, therefore, leads to disruption of
production plans. It also makes it impossible to plan the workload and distribution of
maintenance work force for a balanced attention of all equipment. It increases over time
payment and involves prolonged down time due to non- availability of requisite man-power
and spares. This practice, consequently, accepts a lower level of organizational efficiency, and
cannot be recommended as general practice for all types of equipment.
It is, however, an economical way of maintaining certain non-critical items whose repair and
down time costs are less this way than with any other system of maintenance.
Flowchart of maintenance (Breakdown)

Problem arise

Inform to maintenance
department

Problem detection

Problem can be solved by

repairing or replace

Maintenance tools
The most important maintenance tools name and their functions are given below:
SL.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36

Tools
Thread tape
Cutting disc
Globe valve
Union
Union Elbow
Gear oil
Cutting oil
Hydraulic oil.
Oil gun
Spanner
Master range
Flat/ Star screw driver
Hacksaw blade
Spray gun
Drill m/c
Grinding m/c
Hacksaw Frame
Grease
Socket ratchet set
Slide range
Monkey pliers
Pipe threat cutting tools
Bearing puller
Pipe range
Pipe cutting tools
Hole Punch
Divider
Easy opener
External threat die
Heavy scissor
Grease gun
Welding m/c
Spirit leveler
File
Hammer
Circlip tools

Function
Joining of broken metallic part
For cutting pipes, rods
Fitting for steam line
Fitting for water, steam line
Fitting water steam line
Lubrication
Lubrication
Lubrication
Oil application
Tightening of nuts & bolts
Tightening of nuts & bolts
Screw tightening & loosening
For metal cutting
Spray chemicals
To make hole by drilling
For grinding & cutting of mild steel
Cutting
Lubrication
Tightening of nuts & bolts
Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts
Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts
To cut the threat in pipe
To assist the opening of bearing from shaft
Tightening & loosening of pipe joint
For pipe cutting
Punching the hole
For circle marking on metal & wood
To open the broken head bolt
For external threat cutting
Cutting of gasket & steel sheet
For greasing of moving parts of rn/c
For welding & cutting
For perfect leveling
For smoothing the surface
For scaling & right angling
Circlip opening & closing

Maintenance procedure of different machine:

Machine: knitting m/c

SL. No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

Items need to be checked & Serviced

Check and tightening all motor terminals.
Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals
Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and circular fan on top of machine
Check and clean the interfacing and data cables.
Check and tightening the proximity switch terminals.
Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the panel
Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and the emergency switch.

Functional test of the yarn detector

Machine: Dyeing m/c

Maintenance: Mechanical
Serial no Items need to be checked & service
1
Grease the winch bearing
2
Complete cleaning of machine.
3
Cleaning of drained valves, replace scale if required.
4
Check air supply filters, regulator, & auto drain seals.
5
Greasing of unloading rollers bearing
6
Checking of oil levels, & bolts, of unloading roller gear box.
7
Clean filters element and blow out
8
Checking unloading roller coupling & packing.
9
Checking & cleaning of main vessel level indicator.
10
Check the oil level of pump bearing & refill if required.
11
Check the function of heat & cool modulating valves.
12
Check all belts & belt tension.
13
Check all door seals.
Machine: Dyeing m/c
Maintenance: Electrical
Serial no
Items need to be checked & service
1
Check main panels (by using compressed air)
2
Check all on/ off switch.
3
Check all indicating lamps.
4
Check calibration of heating/ cooling modulating valves.
5
Check setting of sensor.
6
Check setting & operation of lid safety switches.
7
Check all motors terminal
8
Visual checking of all power & central cables.
9
Check all circuit breaker & motor overload.

10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17

Check all signal isolators.

Check main pump inverter & its cooling fan.
Check & clean fluff and dirt at dirt at all motor fan covers.
Check panel cooling fan & clean its filter
Check all magnetic conductors and relays.
Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank
Check all pneumatic solenoids
Check all emergency switches

Machine: sewing machine

Maintenance: Mechanical
Serial no
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12

Items need to be checked & service

To check machines should be blown off every day to remove lint and trash
To check on lockstitch machines, the hook should be blown off regularly
during the day to prevent lint or dirt from building up in the oil ports in the
race of the hook
Randomly check the oil levels in the machines
A high quality white machine oil should be used that will not stain
Check availability of proper machine oil in the factory
Check to make sure the oil is not contaminated
Check to see that oil reservoir pump filters are cleaned regularly
Check for rusted areas due to excessive moisture in production area
Check for shake in needle bar due to worn needle bar bushings
Check for excessive movement in stitch forming devices, etc
Check for missing screws
Check for defective screws that are difficult to tighten properly

Maintenance: Electrical
Watching for wear signs on wires but while cleaning the machine, take the time to
honestly inspect the wires.
To Check the entire length of the wire for abrasions to the plastic coating or for damage
a pet may have done.
To Check that all the electrical prongs are tight and secure.

Textown group limited (TTL) is a big project and so of course having a vast project of utility
service. Here the total account of utility facilities is available. The utilities are
Water
Gas
Electricity
Compressed Air
Steam
Utility Service

Utility
Gas
Electricity
Compressed air
Steam
Water
Temp. control

Sources
TITAS
Generator
Compressor
Boiler
Natural water by pump

Electricity
Source: Generator
Generator Specification
Generator No: 01
Brand: DETUZ
Origin: Germany
Utility: Fuel-natural gas
Capacity:

Compressed Air
Source: Compressor
No. of Compressor: 06
Brand: Dongnam
Origin: Korea

Generator No: 02
Brand: CAT
Origin: Germany
Utility: Diesel
Capacity:

Gas:
Generally 2500 CFT gas is required to produce 1 ton steam /hr. This amount gas is supplied by
TITAS. The gas is supplied to gas generator or different section (Boiler- for heating water) from
the main line of the TITAS GAS LTD.
Boiler:
The equipment used for producing steam from water is called steam generator or boiler. The
boiler used for producing steam in KCKIL is fire tube type boiler. This produced steam is
supplied by the steam line in different section. Simple vertical boiler of fire tube type is mainly
used in small plant requiring small quantity of steam and where floor area is limited.
Classification of boilers:
Fire tube boiler (gas): Low pressure, low running cost, less chance of bursting but greater
risk of damage.
Water tube boiler: High pressure, high running cost high chance of bursting & doesnt
damage the whole boiler.
As this factory used fire tube boilers and its description is given below.
In boiler house, steam is produced at high temperature and pressure. This produced steam is
supplied by the steam line in different section.
Uses: Steam use for:

Power generation (steam engine / turbine).

Processing in industries (dyeing & finishing mill, sugar mill, paper mill etc.).
Heating purposes (houses, offices, hospitals etc in cold countries).
Hot water supply.

Essentials of a good boiler:

Required pressure and quality at minimum fuel.

Initial installation and maintenance cost low.
Parts approachable for repairs.
Quick starting capacity.
Conform to the safely regulations of boiler act.

Working flow of boiler :

Boiler No
Machine Name (Functional)
Boiler Type
Brand Name
Max. Steam Output
Test Pressure
Volume
Country Name

01
Steam Generate
Fire Tube Boiler
LOOS

02
Steam Generate
Fire Tube Boiler
Cochran
5.5 t /h

Germany

Scotland

EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Environmental problems of the textile industry are mainly caused by discharges of wastewater.
Textile processing employs a variety of chemicals, depending on the nature of the raw material
and end product. Some of these chemicals are different enzymes, detergents, dyes, acids, sodas
and salts. Industrial processes generate wastewater containing heavy metal contaminants.
Since most of the heavy metals are non-degradable into non-toxic end products, their
concentrations must be reduced to acceptable levels before discharging them into the
environment. Otherwise these could pose threats to public health and/or affect the aesthetic
quality of portable water. According to World Health Organization (WHO) the metals of most
immediate concern are chromium, zinc, iron, mercury and lead. Various types of treatment
processes are adopted to dye or print or finish the textile materials. Different types of textile
process could generate different types of effluent.

Step wise function of different unit of E.T.P

Equalizer Tank:
Air circulation is occurred in this tank to reduce the temperature of the water.
Reaction Tank:
Use chemical: Soda Lime.
Function: To remove the various color.
PH Control Tank:
Use chemical: FeSo4, Fitkary.
Function: To control PH (6.0-6.5).
Flocculation Tank
Use chemical: Polyelectrolyte & alum.
Function: To produce flock.
Primary Clarifier:
Function: To monitor performance of flocculation clarifier & separate solid waste.
Sludge Bed:
Function: Solid waste dried & send to outside for burial
Aeration Tank:
Use chemical: Urea, Phosphoric acid.

Function: Bio logical oxygen demand & Chemical oxygen demand reduced here & diffused
aeration system ensures high oxidation efficiency.
Secondary Clarifier:
Function: Remaining solid waste separate here. Reduce total solid.
Chlorination Tank:
Used chemical: Sodium hypochloride
Function: Disinfection done here.
Multi filter:
Function: Extra suspended impurities separation by passing into the sand. Here removed
suspended solution and correction the water color.
Functions of Different Ingredients used In E.T.P Plant:
Lime: Lime is used to change the color of effluent and to increase the transparency of water.
Ferus Sulphate: Ferus Sulphate is used for the agglomeration of the foreign matters present in
the effluent.
Poly Electrolyte: Poly Electrolyte helps to make the agglomerated materials be gummy for easy
deposition below the surface of water.
Hydrochloric Acid: Hydrochloric Acid is used to sustain the required PH of the treated water.

INVENTORY:
Inventory in a wider sense defined as any idle resources or assets of an organization, however it
is commonly used to indicate raw materials, finished, semi-finished, packing, spears & other
stocked in order to meet an expected demand on distribution. Even though inventory of
materials is an idle resource in the sense & is not meant for the most immediate use but it is
almost necessary to maintain some inventories for the smooth function of an organization
Causes of maintain inventory:
To run manufacturing operations economically.
To take care of uncertainties demand.
To reduce the clerical cost & to take advantage of discounts, transportation etc.
It takes time to complete one operation & more products from one stage to another.
To take care of order cycles.
Scope of inventory control:
Raw materials inventories.
In process inventories.
Finished goods inventories.
Miscellaneous inventories. Etc.
Frequency of inventory control:
Daily inventory control.
Monthly inventory control.
Yearly inventory control
Inventory management for raw material:
In TTL there are different inventory systems are maintained for different materials
Grey fabric store:
All the grey fabric is stored in the fabric store near the knitting section. Different types of fabric
are listed in the sheet according to fabric types, quantity, & consumers requirement.
Dyes & chemical store:
There is a different store for dyes & chemicals. Varies types of dyes & chemicals are stored here
according to dyes & chemicals companies. Different types of dyes & chemicals are listed in a
sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes & chemicals are also included. Every day the
sheet is updated & a copy of this sheet is supplied to the factory manager, Dyeing manager, &
Dye house & Lab section.

Finished fabric store:

In TTL finished fabric are sent to the garments section. After use in the garments excess fabrics
are stored in finish fabric store according to the lot no, quantity, order no, fabrics diameter,
buyers name color, size other considering technical parameters.
Finished goods store:
In garment section during production they always consider some allowances%. After shipment
the remaining garments are stored in the finished goods store to the product name, order
name, color name, & other subjected points.
Spare Parts store:
In TTL required amount of spear of different machines are stored in the mechanical store room.
All the spears are listed in a sheet which is controlled by the mechanical & maintenance
personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room according to their size, quantity, &
requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the small spare parts.

Reorder point:
The re-order point is stated in terms of the level of inventory at which an order should be
placed for maintaining the current inventory.
In other words, re-order point may be defined as the level of inventory when fresh order should
be placed with supplies for procuring additional inventory equal to the economic order quantity.

Compliance
Compliance means conformity of certain standard. PPC maintain a moderate working condition for
their employees. Though it is well established project, there is some lacking of proper compliance
issues. Here is list of compliance in which some points are maintained fully and some are partially.

Compensation for holiday

Sexual harassment policy
Child labor abolition policy
Anti-Discrimination policy
Working hour policy
Hiring /recruitment policy
Security policy
Buyers code of conduct
Health & safety committee
Canteen
National Festival holiday
Weekly holiday fund
Time care
Overtime register
Leave with wages

Health:
Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee
Cup availability
Drinking water supply
Drinking water signs in bangle & English locate min. 20 feet away from work place
Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week
Water center in charge person with cleanliness
Suggestion box register
Toilet:

Separate toilet for women and men

A seat with proper privacy and lock facility
Effective water sewage system
Soap toilet
Water tap
Dust bin
Daily cleaning log sheet
No-smoking signs
Ladies/gents toilet signs both in bangle and English

Fire:
Sufficient fire extinguisher and active
Access area without hindrance
Fire signs in both languages

 Fire certified personal photo

Emergency exit
Safety Guard:
Metal glows in good conditions
Rubber mats & ironers
First air box one
First trained employees
Eye guard
Doctor
Medicine
Welfare officer
Others:
Room temperature
Lighting facilities

CONCLUSION
For every person who is fresher in the field of textile, industrial training works like learning
route. This course gives us the opportunity to move liberally in every section of the industry to
learn the industrial work & follow the process sequence virtually. From our two months
observation of the industry along with research & development section specially, we can say
that in the knitting, dyeing & garments sector this industry has very strong possibility because
the industry is running with all modern machineries & very knowledgeable persons are working
all the time with their maximum merit. We just think the capacity of the industry should be
developed with the amount of order the industry is being taking.
This attachment, act as a bridge to minimize the gap between theoretical and practical
knowledge. Undoubtedly, this attachment taught us more about textile technology, industrial
management & production process. Besides it gave us the first opportunity to work in an
industry. We believe that, the experience of this industrial attachment will help us in our future
career as textile technologist/engineer.
We are fortunate enough that we have got an opportunity to have training in this mill. During
the training period we have received enough co-operation and association from the authority
and found all personnel. All stuffs and officers were very sincere and devoted their duties to
achieve their goal.
We tried our best to gather all necessary information but it is true that within this short period
it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success but as a whole this industrial training was a
satisfactory one and once again wed would like to thank the authority of Textown Group
limited (TTGL) as well as our honorable teachers for their altruistic help and advice.