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    Tech-Pack Apparel

    Uploaded by

    Sharvari Shankar
    This document provides specifications and construction details for a men's suit jacket prototype, including: - Fabric details, fit type, size range, and designer information - Measurements for the prototype sample size - Point of measurement codes and definitions - Bill of materials listing fabrics and components - Construction steps for the collar, sleeves, lining, pockets, and other details - Diagrams illustrating construction steps The document contains all the technical information needed to construct the prototype men's suit jacket according to the designer's specifications.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Tech-Pack Apparel

    Uploaded by

    Sharvari Shankar
    2K views15 pages
    This document provides specifications and construction details for a men's suit jacket prototype, including: - Fabric details, fit type, size range, and designer information - Measurements for the prototype sample size - Point of measurement codes and definitions - Bill of materials listing fabrics and components - Construction steps for the collar, sleeves, lining, pockets, and other details - Diagrams illustrating construction steps The document contains all the technical information needed to construct the prototype men's suit jacket according to the designer's specifications.

    Original Description:

    Apparel tech pack

    Original Title

    tech-pack Apparel

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    © © All Rights Reserved

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    This document provides specifications and construction details for a men's suit jacket prototype, including: - Fabric details, fit type, size range, and designer information - Measurements for the prototype sample size - Point of measurement codes and definitions - Bill of materials listing fabrics and components - Construction steps for the collar, sleeves, lining, pockets, and other details - Diagrams illustrating construction steps The document contains all the technical information needed to construct the prototype men's suit jacket according to the designer's specifications.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    2K views15 pages

    Tech-Pack Apparel

    Uploaded by

    Sharvari Shankar
    This document provides specifications and construction details for a men's suit jacket prototype, including: - Fabric details, fit type, size range, and designer information - Measurements for the prototype sample size - Point of measurement codes and definitions - Bill of materials listing fabrics and components - Construction steps for the collar, sleeves, lining, pockets, and other details - Diagrams illustrating construction steps The document contains all the technical information needed to construct the prototype men's suit jacket according to the designer's specifications.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 15

    Bruning Product Development

    Tech Flat
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    Front

    Back

    Bruning Product Development


    POM Sheet
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting
    HPS

    A-A
    A-E
    A-L

    A-X
    A-F

    A-P

    A-R

    A-M
    A-D

    A-T
    A-Q
    A-K

    A-S

    A-Y

    A-N

    A-H
    A-W

    HPS
    A-V

    A-O

    A-U
    A-G
    A-J
    A-D

    A-C

    A-B

    A-I

    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Bruning Product Development


    POM Sheet

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    POM
    Code
    A-A
    A-B
    A-C
    A-D
    A-E
    A-F
    A-G
    A-H
    A-I
    A-J
    A-K
    A-L
    A-M
    A-N
    A-O
    A-P
    A-Q
    A-R
    A-S
    A-T
    A-U
    a-V
    A-W
    A-X
    A-Y
    A-Z
    A-AA
    A-AB
    A-AC
    A-AD
    A-AE
    A-AF

    Point of Measure
    Front Length
    Center back Length
    Side length
    Chest width circumference
    Across shoulder
    Across chest
    Across back
    Waist width circumference from HPS
    Bottom opening circumference
    Sleeve length top armhole
    Sleeve length underarm
    Curved armhole width circumference
    Muscle width circumference
    Elbow width circumference
    Sleeve opening width circumference
    Neck depth center front
    Dart length bust dart
    Dart Placement A. HPS to bust dart
    B. CF to bust dart
    C. Underarm to bust dart
    D. HPS to princess dart
    E. CF to princess dart
    Distance between buttons
    HPS to top breast pocket
    HPS to top of flap pocket
    CF to breast pocket
    Slope of breast pocket
    CF to flap pocket
    Breast pocket width
    Breast pocket height
    Flap pocket width
    Flap height

    33
    30
    20
    44
    19
    16
    22
    42
    44
    24
    17
    23
    16
    15
    12
    18
    9
    13
    4
    1
    13
    6
    4
    12
    23
    3
    1
    5
    4
    1
    6
    2

    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1
    Bill of Materials (BOM
    Item/Description
    Content
    Suiting
    100%
    wool
    Button, 4 hole
    Button, 4 hole
    Lining
    Polyester
    Felt
    Haircloth
    Interfacing
    Interfacing
    Cotton wadding
    Fiberweb fabric
    Burlap
    Care tag
    Woven hang loop
    Main tag

    Bruning Product Development


    BOM Sheet

    Placement
    Body, collar, lapels,
    sleeves
    Sleeve cuff
    Front placket
    Body, sleeve
    Shoulder pad,
    shoulder head,
    front chest
    Front chest
    Lapel, shoulder
    seams, back side
    seam
    Front chest
    Shoulder pad,
    shoulder head
    Shoulder pad
    collar
    Above front left
    inner pocket
    Back center at the
    collar
    Above front right
    inner pocket

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    Supplier Width/Weight/Size
    diameter
    diameter

    Finish

    Qty
    8
    2

    1
    1
    1

    Bruning Product Development


    Armscye call outs
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    shoulder pad

    Sleeve head

    Fusible interlining

    Twill tape

    Felt

    Jacket Back

    interfacing on
    inside

    Jacket front chest


    1. Fuse interlining along back armscye on jacket back and front armscye on sleeve front.
    2. Sew twill tape to armscye using a 301 stitch
    3. Sew felt on sleeve side of armscye using large 301 stitch
    4. Attach two pieces of the sleeve head together using a 401 chain stitch as shown.
    5. Sew sleeve heads to armscye on sleeve side using 301 stitch
    6. Sew two pieces of felt on sleeve head to each other using large 301 stitch.
    7. Sew felt sleeve head to shoulder side of armscye using 301 stitch.
    8. Sew set in sleeve using 1/2 seam allowance and 301 stitch.

    Bruning Product Development


    Collar call outs
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    upper collar

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    undercollar

    woven fusible interfacing

    shoulder seam

    1. Iron woven fusible interfacing along back collar


    2. Insert fashion fabric of upper collar between burlap support
    fabric and felt undercollar then stitch.
    3. Fold top of upper collar over 1/4 and press
    4. Stitch felt undercollar to lapel and shoulder using hand
    sewn whip stitch.
    5. Fold upper collar over and sew along folded and pressed
    edge using a 301 stitch

    Bruning Product Development


    Cuff call outs
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    Sleeve Faux Button Placket

    1/2
    1/2

    3/4

    1 1/2

    3/4
    6
    Attach buttons with 101 stitch
    Figure C
    Figure A

    1. Attach 3 3/4 wide fusible interlining 1 from the edge of


    sleeve.
    2. Sew side seams together with 301 stitch, leaving 6 1/2
    open on back side seam.
    3. Finish edges with 503 stitch
    4. Fold front hem as shown in figure B and stitch along
    lines 1 and 2
    5. Turn remaining side of cuff up 2 inches and stitch 1/4
    hem
    from side.
    6. Overlap left over right and attach buttons as shown in
    figure C
    7. Attach lining to fashion fabric, right sides together, using
    a 103 stitch at the cuff. Stitch at 2 on lining, 1 on fashion fabric.

    (dashes = folds)
    Figure B

    vent

    Bruning Product Development


    Lining
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    1 pleat

    1. Sew lining pieces together, front, sides, and back using 301 stitch.
    2. Sew lining to front placket facing using a 301 stitch. Sew facing to front jacket placket with a 301 stitch.
    3. Press lining up 2 inches at the hem.
    4. Turn right side out and stitch hem with a SSc and a blind catchstitch.
    5. Set lining sleeve leaving cap unstitched to turn the sleeve right side out.
    6. Overlap shoulder seams with the front 2 inches under the back ( folded over 1 and pressed) and stitch
    using a whipstitch.
    7. Close sleeve caps with whipstitch and 1/2 seam allowance.
    8. The collar will be folded over to finish the lining at the neck using a 301 stitch as instructed in
    the collar call outs.

    Bruning Product Development


    Cuff call outs
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    Interfacing 2

    Burlap

    Interfacing 1

    Felt

    Haircloth

    Fashion
    Fabric

    1. Fuse interfacing 2 to lapel and at side princess seam


    2. Layer haircloth (see directions below for order) under
    felt and attach using a large zig zag hand
    stitch as shownto interfacing 1.
    3. Layer shoulder pad between haircloth and felt.
    4. Use a large basting 301 stitch along the armscye as shown
    5. Attach twill tape using a 503 stitch
    6. Edge finish canvas using ?
    7. Attach canvas to collar with repeated 503 stitches as shown.
    8. Fuse interfacing 1 with all components to body of jacket.

    1. Sew pieces labled 2 to piece 1 using large, zig zag


    hand stitches
    2. Stitch piece 3 to piece 4 using large, zig zag hand
    stitches

    2
    3

    4
    1

    Bruning Product Development


    Collar call outs
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    B-B
    B-D
    B-E
    B-C

    B-F
    B-G

    B-A

    POM
    Code
    B-A
    B-B
    B-C
    B-D
    B-E
    B-F
    B-G

    Point of Measure
    Front Length to break point
    Collar Stand at CB
    Lapel Point
    Gorge Position
    Collar Point
    Lapel Point to Collar Point
    Lapel Width

    21 1/2
    1
    1 1/2
    5 1/2
    1 1/4
    2
    5

    Bruning Product Development


    Pocket call outs
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting
    C-A
    Breast Pocket POM
    C-A
    width
    C-B
    height
    C-C
    slope

    C-B
    C-C

    4 1/2
    1
    1

    Flap Pocket POM


    D-A width 6 1/2
    D-B height 2

    D-B

    D-A

    Welt Pocket POM


    E-A
    Width
    E-B
    height

    6 3/8
    3/8

    Bruning Product Development


    Shoulder Pad
    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    felt

    cotton wadding

    FIberweb

    1. Layer felt, cotton wadding, and fiberweb as shown.


    2. Stitch layers together with large handstitch as shown.
    3. Layer shoulder pad between felt and haircloth as directed in interlinings directions.
    4. Sew to armscye at 1/4 with 301 stitch with basting SPI.

    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB
    Status: Proto 1

    Bruning Product Development


    Grading Sheet

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Fabrication: plain weave suiting

    Grading Rules
    Front Length
    Center back Length
    Side length
    Chest width circumference
    Across shoulder
    Across chest
    Across back
    Waist width circumference from HPS
    Bottom opening circumference
    Sleeve length top armhole
    Sleeve length underarm
    Curved armhole width circumference
    Muscle width circumference
    Elbow width circumference
    Sleeve opening width circumference
    Neck depth center front
    Dart length bust dart
    Dart Placement A. HPS to bust dart
    B. CF to bust dart
    C. Underarm to bust dart
    D. HPS to princess dart
    E. CF to princess dart
    Distance between buttons
    HPS to top breast pocket
    HPS to top of flap pocket
    CF to breast pocket
    Slope of breast pocket
    CF to flap pocket
    Breast pocket width
    Breast pocket height
    Flap pocket width
    Flap height

    Grade
    down
    -1/4
    -1/4
    -1/4
    -1
    -1/4
    -1/4
    -1/4
    -1
    -1
    -1/8-1/4
    -1/8-1/4
    -1/2
    -1/4-1/2
    -1/4
    -1/4-1/2
    -0-1/4
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0
    -0

    Grade up
    +1/4
    +1/4
    +1/4
    +1
    + 3/8
    +3/8
    +3/8
    + 1
    +1
    +1/8-1/4
    +1/8-1/4
    +5/8
    +1/4-1/2
    +3/8
    +1/4-1/2
    +0-1/4
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0
    +0

    Tolera
    nce

    3/8
    3/8
    5/8

    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/16
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8
    1/8

    Sample
    Size 44
    33
    30
    20
    44
    19
    16
    22
    42
    44
    24
    17
    23
    16
    15
    12
    18
    9
    13
    4
    1
    13
    6
    4
    12
    23
    3
    1
    5
    4
    1
    6
    2

    Size
    Down 42
    32
    30
    19
    43
    19
    15
    21
    41
    43
    24
    16
    23
    16
    14
    11
    18
    9
    13
    4
    1
    13
    6
    4
    12
    23
    3
    1
    5
    4
    1
    6
    2

    Size Up
    46
    33
    30
    20
    45
    19 5/8
    16 3/8
    22 3/8
    43
    46
    24
    17
    24 1/8
    17
    15 3/8
    12
    18
    9
    13
    4
    1
    13
    6
    4
    12
    23
    3
    1
    5
    4
    1
    6
    2

    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB

    Bruning Product Development


    Construction

    Fabrication: plain weave suiting


    Status: Proto 1
    Cutting info: 2 way
    Area

    Description

    Side seams

    Join

    Back seam

    Join

    Darts
    Center front, lapel

    Join

    Welt Pocket

    Join

    Flap Pocket

    Insert flap to welt pocket,


    join layers of flap

    Pocket bags
    Bottom hem
    fashion fabric
    Bottom hem-lining

    Close
    Efa
    Efa

    Sleeve hem

    SSd (edges turned in)

    Shoulder seamfashio fabric


    Shoulder seamlining

    Join (set in sleeve)


    Join as directed on call outs

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX

    Match horizontal: no
    Match vertical: no
    Match other: no
    Join Stitch
    Seam
    Finish
    301, 14 spi
    Press
    open on
    fashion
    fabric, not
    on lining,
    finish with
    503
    301, 14 spi
    Press
    open
    301, 14 spi
    Cut and
    press
    open
    301, 14 spi
    Trim and
    press
    301, 14 spi, LSd
    with bottom
    fabric folded over
    to form the welt
    Attach flap to SA Trim and
    of welt pocket.
    press
    Join layers of flap
    with 14 spi and
    SSA then press
    back over itself.
    301, 7 spi
    103
    Press
    Hand sewn catch
    stitch
    Hand sewn catch
    stitch
    301, 14 spi
    301, hand stitch
    to finish

    Top
    Stitch
    None

    Interlining
    Fusible on
    back side
    seam

    None
    None

    none

    None

    None

    Press
    Press

    None

    Trim and
    press

    None

    As seen on
    call outs

    Proto # 1
    Style # 123
    Season: Fall 2012
    Name: Mens Suit Jacket
    Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit
    Brand: JSB

    Bruning Product Development


    Construction

    Collar

    Join with LSb

    Top collar

    LSb

    Interlinings

    Attach all interlinings and


    support materials as
    shown on call outs
    Attach
    Keyhole

    Button
    Buttonhole

    Hand sewn whip


    stitch on collar
    back
    Hand sewn catch
    stitch top collar
    down.

    101 X formation
    Hand sewn
    buttonhole stitch

    Size Range: Mens 42-46


    Sample Size: 44
    Designer: Jessica Bruning
    Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX
    Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX
    Press
    Press

    Open
    buttonhol
    e with
    scissors

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