Lonely Planet Publications

676

lonelyplanet.com

COUNTY FERMANAGH

Counties Fermanagh
& Tyrone

ENNISKILLEN
pop 11,500

The ancient landscape of Fermanagh is shaped by ice and water, with rugged hills rising
above quilted plains of half-drowned drumlins and shimmering, reed-fringed lakes. A glance
at the map shows the county is around one-third water as the locals will tell you, the lakes
are in Fermanagh for six months of the year; for the other six, Fermanagh is in the lakes.

The limestone ridges to the south of Lough Erne are riddled with caves at Marble Arch
you can explore an underground river; the higher hills are swathed with blanket bog, a
rare and endangered habitat. This is all grand walking country, but there are also rainy-day
attractions, such as the contrasting stately homes of Florence Court and Castle Coole, and
the world-famous pottery at Belleek.
County Tyrone from Tr Eoghain (Land of Owen, a legendary chieftain) is the homeland
of the ONeill clan, and is dominated by the tweed-tinted moorlands of the Sperrin Mountains,
whose southern flanks are dotted with prehistoric sites. Apart from the hiking opportunities
offered by these heather-clad hills, the countys main attraction is the Ulster American Folk
Park, a fascinating outdoor museum celebrating Ulsters historic links with the USA.

HIGHLIGHTS
Climb to the Lost World Hike over rare

blanket bog to the remote summit of Cuilcagh Mountain (p688)

Faces from the Past Ponder the meaning

Ulster
American
Folk Park

of the strange stone figures on White Island

(p684) and Boa Island (p685)

Bank of Ireland (%6632 2136; 7 Townhall St)

Eason (%6632 4341; 10 High St; h9am-5.30pm

Boa Island;
White Island

Blazing Paddles Hire a canoe and explore

the reed-fringed backwaters of Lough Erne

(p687)
The American Connection Learn about the

Marble
Arch Caves

Lough Erne

Cuilcagh
Mountain

historical links between Ireland and the USA

at the Ulster American Folk Park (p690)
POPULATION: 227,000

The main street changes name half a dozen

times between the bridges at either end; the
prominent clock tower marks the town centre. The other principal street is Wellington
Rd, south of and parallel to the main street,
where youll find the bus station, tourist office and car parking. If youre driving, try to
avoid rush hour the bridge at the west end
is a traffic bottleneck.

Information

River of Adventure Follow the course of an

underground river as it flows through the

Marble Arch Caves (p688)

Orientation

AREA: 5274 SQ KM

Mon-Sat) Local-interest books and maps.

Enniskillen Library (%6632 2886; Halls Lane;
h9.15am-5.15pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 9.15am-7.30pm Tue
& Thu, 9.15am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat) Internet access 1.50
per 30min.
Post office (3 High St) In Dolans Centra grocery store.
Tourist Information Centre (%6632 3110; www
.fermanagh.gov.uk; Wellington Rd; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri,
10am-6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9am-5.30pm

Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Easter-Jun &

Sep, 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri & 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Oct,
9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri Nov-Easter) Books accommodation,
changes money, sells fishing licences and provides a postal
and fax service.
Ulster Bank (%6632 4034; 16 Darling St)

Sights
Enniskillen Castle (%6632 5000; www.enniskillencastle
.co.uk; Castle Barracks; adult/child 2.95/1.95; h2-5pm Mon
& 10am-5pm Tue-Fri year-round, also 2-5pm Sat May-Sep &
2-5pm Sun Jul & Aug;w), a former stronghold of

the 16th-century Maguire chieftains, guards

the western end of the towns central island,
its twin-turreted Watergate looming over passing fleets of cabin cruisers. Within the walls
youll find the Fermanagh County Museum, which
has displays on the countys history, archaeology, landscape and wildlife. The 15th-century
Keep contains the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers
Regimental Museum, full of guns, uniforms
and medals including eight Victoria Crosses
awarded in WWI and is dedicated to the
regiment which was raised at the castle in
1689 to support the army of William I.
In Forthill Park, at the eastern end of
town, stands Coles Monument (adult/child 1/50p;
h1.30-3pm mid-AprSep). It commemorates Sir
Galbraith Lowry-Cole (1772-1842), who was
one of Wellingtons generals and the son of
the first earl of Enniskillen. Climb the 108
steps inside the column for a good view of
the surrounding area (tickets on sale at the
Enniskillen Tourist Information Centre).

Activities
The Kingfisher Trail is a waymarked, longdistance cycling trail that starts in Enniskillen and wends its way through the back
roads of counties Fermanagh, Leitrim, Cavan
and Monaghan. The full route is around
370km long, but a shorter loop, starting and
finishing in Enniskillen, and travelling via
Kesh, Belleek, Garrison, Belcoo and the village of Florencecourt, is only 115km easily
done in two days with an overnight stay at
Belleek. You can get a trail map from the
Enniskillen Tourist Information Centre.
You can hire bikes from the Lakeland Canoe
Centre (%6632 4250; www.arkoutdooradventure.com;
Castle Island; half-/full-day 10/15). They also rent out
two-person canoes (20 for two hours).
You can buy fishing permits and licences
from the tourist information office, or
Home, Field and Stream (p681).

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

This watery maze is a natural playground for anglers the loughs and rivers are stuffed
with trout and pike and for boaters. You can hire a motor cruiser and spend a week or
two navigating the scenic waterways of Lough Erne and the River Shannon, which together
form a 750km network of rivers, lakes and canals. If you prefer your boats without engines,
the 50km Lough Erne Canoe Trail is a paddlers paradise.

Perched amid the web of waterways that link

Upper and Lower Lough Erne, Enniskillen
(Inis Ceithleann, meaning Caitlins Island)
is an appealing town with a mile-long main
street that rides the roller-coaster spine of
the islands drumlin. (The locals say youre
only a true Enniskilliner if you were born
between the bridges; that is, on the towns
central island.) Its attractive waterside setting, bustling with boats in summer, plus a
range of lively pubs and restaurants, make
Enniskillen a good base for exploring Upper
and Lower Lough Erne, Florencecourt and
the Marble Arch Caves.
Though neither was born here, both
Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett were pupils
at Enniskillens Portora Royal School (Wilde
from 1864 to 1871, Beckett from 1919 to
1923); it was here that Beckett first studied
French, a language he would later write in.
The towns name is also prominent in the
history of the Troubles on Poppy Day (11
November) in 1987 an IRA bomb killed 11
innocent people during a service at Enniskillens war memorial.

C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H E n n i s k i l l e n 677

678 C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H E n n i s k i l l e n

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

bus, MV Kestrel, calling at Devenish Island

along the way. It departs from the Round
O Quay, just west of the town centre on
the A46 to Belleek. There are also Saturday
evening cruises (adult/child 30/15; h6pm May-Sept)
that include a three-course dinner at the
Killyhevlin Hotel.

Tours
Blue Badge Tours (%6962 1430; breegemccusker@
btopenworld.com) offers guided tours of Enniskillen and the Lough Erne area with local historian Breege McCusker, who is a registered
tourist guide. Special interest tours include
prehistoric sites, monastic sites, carved stones
and plantation castles.
Erne Tours (%6632 2882; Round O Quay, The Brook;

Sleeping
BUDGET

Bridges Youth Hostel (%6634 0110; www.hini.org.uk;

Belmore St; dm/s/tw 15/20/32; pw) This modern,
purpose-built hostel has a great location overlooking a river in the centre of town. It has
mostly four-bed dorms, each with an en suite,
plus six twin rooms, a kitchen, a restaurant, a
laundry and a bike shed.

adult/child 9/6; h10.30am, 12.15pm, 2.15pm & 4.15pm

daily Jul & Aug, 2.15pm daily Jun, 2.15pm daily Tue, Sat &
Sun May, Sept & Oct) operates 1-hour cruises on

Lower Lough Erne aboard the 56-seat water-

Rossole Guesthouse (%6632 3462; 85 Sligo Rd; s/d

30/45) A modern Georgian-style house with a
sunny conservatory overlooking a small lake,
the five-room Rossole is an anglers delight
you can fish in the lake, and there are rowing
boats for guests at the bottom of the garden.
Its 1km southwest of the town centre on the
A4 Sligo road.
Greenwood Lodge (%6632 5636; www.greenwood
lodge.co.uk; 17 Killivilly Ct, Tempo Rd; s/d 28/46; p) The
owners of this spacious and modern villa, set
on a quiet side street 3km northeast of town
off the B80, go out of their way to make you
feel welcome. The three homely bedrooms
all have en suites, the breakfasts are freshly
prepared, and there is secure storage availabe
for bikes.
0
0

Dungloe

Derryveagh
Mountains

Lough
Foyle

Churchill

A5

Gortin

Castlederg

Lough
Eask
Inver

Newtownstewart
B48

Ulster
American
Folk Park

Donegal

Killybegs

Lough
Derg

A505

A54

Ballinde
rry R

A29

Wellbrook
Beetling Kildress
Mill
Pomeroy

ANTRIM

Moneymore

iver Cookstown

B73

Lough
Neagh

Ardboe
High Cross

TYRONE
Omagh

Belfast
Airport
Crumlin

A29

LEITRIM

B52

Benbulben
(525m)
Manorhamilton
N16

Augher

B82

A4

A46

Belcoo

Lough
Macnean
Blacklion
Lower

Cuilcagh
Mountain
(666m)

SLIGO

Lough
Allen

Trory

Iron
Mountains

A4

Coalisland

Dungannon
M1

The Linen
Green

Moy

Benburb

N2

A27

Loughgall
Caledon

Lisbellaw

Emyvale

A32

Bellanaleck

Armagh
Killylea

Glaslough

A4

CAVAN

N2
A29
N54

te
Uls

a
an
rC

Newbliss

Newtown
Hamilton

Rossmore
Forest
Park

Camlough

Newry

Slieve
Gullion
(577m)

MONAGHAN
Ballybay
Castleblayney

Belturbet

A1

Keady

Monaghan

Lisnaskea

Share
Holiday B127
Village
Swanlinbar
Newtownbutler Clones
Derrylin
Crom
Estate
A509

Banbridge

Markethill
ARMAGH

A34

Florence
Court

Tandragee

A28

A3

B514

Upper
Lough Erne

Indulge in a spot of country-house comfort

in this large, ivy-clad Victorian villa set in
wooded grounds. There are three en-suite
bedrooms, a luxurious lounge and even
a snooker room with a full-size table. The
Mountview looks out over Race Course
Lough, just a 10-minute (800m) walk, north
of the town centre.
Belmore Court Motel (%6632 6633; www.motel
.co.uk; Tempo Rd; d 55, apt 75-100; pi) Set in a
converted row of terrace houses just east of
the town centre, the Belmore has family miniapartments with cooking facilities, as well
as four ordinary double rooms. Rates dont
include breakfast.

A29

2
N2

Crossmaglen

Killyhevlin Hotel (%6632 3481; www.killyhevlin.com;

Killyhevlin; s/d from 98/135; piw) Enniskillens top hotel is 1.5km south of town on the
A4 Maguiresbridge road, in an idyllic setting
overlooking Upper Lough Erne. Many of its
43 rooms have lakeside views; there are also 13
two-bedroom lakeside chalets (250 per weekend April to June, 195 per weekend November
to March; 575 per week July to October).

Eating
BUDGET

Johnstons Jolly Sandwich Bar (%6632 2277; 3 Darling

DOWN

A28

Enniskillen
Castle
Coole

Lurgan

Portadown

Aughnacloy

Fivemiletown

Tempo

Coney
Island
Newr
y

A45

Castlecaulfield

Ballygawley

Devenish

A5

Marble Arch
Caves

Ballygawley

Fintona

A32

Island
Lough
Macnean FERMANAGH
Upper

Dowra

Dromore

Tully
Irvinestown
Castle Lisnarick
Killadeas
Blaney

Derrygonnelly
Monea
Castle

Lough
Gill

A5

Garrison

B81

Grant
Ancestral
Homestead

nal
Ca

Erne
Rosscor
Lough Navar Cliffs of
Forest Park Magho

Lough
Melvin

Donaghmore
High Cross

Kesh
Boa
Castle
Caldwell A47 Island White
Castle Archdale
Forest Park
Lower LoughIsland Country Park

Bundoran Belleek

Drumfin

Creggan

A6

Magherafelt
Ballyronan

Pettigo

15
N15
Rossnowlagh
Ballyshannon

Dartry
Mountains

Beaghmore
Stone Circles
Gortin
Lakes
Gortin Glen An Creagan
Forest Park Visitor Centre

.mountviewguests.com; 61 Irvinestown Rd; s/d 40/60; p)

TOP END

Randalstown
Slieve
Gallion
(528m)

B162

B43

Donegal
Bay

N15

Cranagh

Railway Hotel (% 6632 2084; www.railwayhotel

enniskillen.com; 34 Forthill St; s/d 37.50/75) Railway
memorabilia dots the walls of this welcoming
130-year-old hotel, a reminder of Enniskillens now-vanished railway line. The 19 rooms
offer rather bijou B&B accommodation close
to the centre of town; rooms at the front can
be a bit noisy.
Mountview Guesthouse (% 6632 3147; www

Draperstown

B47

Plumbridge

DONEGAL

Maghera

A6

Gracehill

M2

Sperrin

Mourn

Ardara

N15
15

Sperrin
Mountains

Ballymena

Portglenone

Mullaghmore
(554m)

MIDRANGE

LOUTH

St; sandwiches 2-4; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat)

A traditional bakery selling excellent pickand-mix sandwiches, soup, pies and cakes to
take away or eat in.
Rebeccas Place (%6632 4499; Buttermarket; snacks
2-5; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) A more traditional
caf with pine tables and chairs, Rebeccas is
set in a craft shop (see p681) and serves good
sandwiches, salads and pastries.
Rubys Coffee & Sandwich Bar (%6632 9399; 10 High
St; snacks 2-5; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Tucked upstairs in Easons bookshop is this comfy nook
furnished with sofas and armchairs, offering
breakfast bagels and croissants, sandwiches

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

Glenties

Blue
Stack
Mountains

Mt Sawel
(678m)

Strabane

N15

River

Stranorlar

Lifford

eele
Castlefin

A54

Rive
r

River

Dunnamanagh

rD

Kilrea

DERRY

Bann

ve

20 km
10 miles

e
Ro

Raphoe

Aghla
Mountain
(598m)

A29

Dungiven
Claudy

an

A5
5

N14
14

N13

Doochary

Gweebarra
Bay

A6

gh
Fau

Letterkenny

Ri

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH & TYRONE

Crohy
Head

C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H E n n i s k i l l e n 679

Main

See p683 and p686 for boat-hire options,

and boxed text, p687 for information on cruising the lakes.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

Rd

10

MIDRANGE

d
nR

a Rd

Derrychar

To A4;
Ardhowen Theatre (800m);
Killyhevlin Hotel (1.5km);
Castle Coole (2km); Belfast
(112km); Dublin (140km)

Temp
o Rd

nR
bli
Du

Pa
hs

F ri t

15

War
Memorial
Be l m o
17
re St

ss

Dub
li

Royal Inniskilling
Fusiliers
Monument

12

Forthill
Park

25

La

Rd

Lough Erne

Lakeland
Forum

Sho
re
Rd
9

Castle
Island

To Kingfisher Trail;
Rossole Guesthouse (1km);
Florence Court; Marble Arch
Caves (20km); Sligo (54km)

A4

Francos (%6632 4424; Queen Elizabeth Rd; mains 818; hnoon-11pm) An atmospheric warren of
wood-panelled, candlelit nooks set in a former
blacksmiths forge, Francos is always bustling
and noisy, and serves a range of Italian, Asian
and seafood dishes as well as filling pizzas and
pasta dishes.
Scoffs Wine Bar & Restaurant (%6634 2622; 17 Belmore St; mains 12-18; h5pm-late daily, 12.30-2.30pm Sun)

This busy restaurant has a modern vibe with

shades of chocolate-brown and burgundy,
dark wood and dim candlelight, and an adventurous international menu that includes
seared tuna steak with potato salad and aioli,
and creamy leek-and-mushroom bake with
hazelnut crumble, as well as more exotic offerings such as roast ostrich on black pudding
and apple mash. The downstairs wine bar
offers lighter meals.
oOscars (%6632 7037; 29 Belmore St; pizzas 8-12, mains 12-18; h 5-10pm) Following a
facelift and a change of management, this
Enniskillen institution now sports a casual
Tuscan-style restaurant upstairs, complete
with a wood-fired pizza oven, and a more
formal, Victorian dining room downstairs.
The menu ranges from pizza and pasta
through to flame-grilled steaks and seafood, with gourmet specials such as tartlet
of goats cheese with Clonakilty black pudding, and prawn ravioli with smoked cheddar and basil cream sauce. The kitchen can
cater for various special diets if you warn
them when booking.

Drinking
oBlakes of the Hollow (William Blake; %6632
2143; 6 Church St) Ulsters best pint of Guinness

8
r

n
He

To Ardhowen Theatre
(foot or bicycle only) (1.3km)

Point

2
n

et

Playing
Fields

Darl
ing
St
Ann St

St

ok

Bro

22

nh

To
w
1

to
ing
ell
W

g
Pa

Castle
St

The

Wellington Rd

Enniskillen
20 Presbyterian
Church
a ll S
t
23
East
Br i d g
e St

11
18
St Michael's
Church

St

q
t S
ge
19
Pa

ton
dle
Mid St

rc
h

4 te
Wa
Clock Tower

13
St

St

16

w
Do

21

24 Chu

St Macartin's
Cathedral

gh

Hi

Queen S
t

14

Enniskillen
Methodist
Church

La

ll's

Ha

Cherry
Island

St

ss
Cro

Ma
rke
t S
t
To A46; Erne Tours
(200m); Belleek (32km);
Ballyshannon (40km);
Donegal (46km)

To Castle Coole
(foot or bicycle only)
(2km)

To Greenwood
Lodge (2km)

TRANSPORT
Bus Station.......................................25 B4
To A32; Kingfisher
Trail; Mountview
Guesthouse (300m);
Castle Archdale Country
Park (16km); Boa Island
(24km); Omagh (34km)

ENTERTAINMENT
Bush Bar...........................................20 C3

SHOPPING
Buttermarket....................................21 C2
Dolan's Centra.................................(see 4)
Erneside Shopping Centre................22 C4
Fermanagh Cottage Industries..........23 C3
Home, Field & Stream.......................24 B2

To Enniskillen
Omniplex
(200m)

EATING
Franco's...........................................13 C3
Johnston's Jolly Sandwich Bar...........14 B2
Oscar's.............................................15 D3
Rebecca's Place................................16 C2
Ruby's Coffee & Sandwich Bar.........(see 2)
Scoffs Wine Bar & Restaurant.......... 17 D3

DRINKING
Blake's of the Hollow........................18 B3
Crowe's Nest....................................19 B3

0
0

C3
C3
B2
C3
B3
B2

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Cole's Monument..............................7 D3
Enniskillen Castle & Museums............8 A2
Lakeland Canoe Centre......................9 A3

Rd

h
Queen Elizabet

Reg
Passal

ENNISKILLEN

and salads, soups and baked potatoes. Free

newspapers, too.

Quay
La

SLEEPING act
or
y
10 F4
Belmore Court Motel........................
Rd
11 D3
Bridges Youth Hostel........................
Railway Hotel....................................12 E3

h i l l St

INFORMATION
Bank of Ireland...................................1
Eason.................................................2
Enniskillen Library...............................3
Post Office.........................................4
Tourist Information Centre.................5
Ulster Bank.........................................6

F o rt

Mill St

lonelyplanet.com

awaits you in this traditional Victorian pub,

almost unchanged since 1887, complete with
marble-topped bar, four huge sherry casks,
antique silver lamp holders and ancient
wood panelling kippered by a century of
cigarette smoke. Theres traditional music
from 9pm on Fridays.
Crowes Nest (%6632 5252; 12 High St) A lively
bar with a conservatory and patio out the
back for those sunny summer afternoons, the
Nest has live music nightly from 10.30pm in
the back bar and traditional music sessions
on Monday nights during summer.

C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H E n n i s k i l l e n 681

Entertainment
Bush Bar (%6632 5210; 26 Townhall St) The nearest
Enniskillen comes to a nightclub, with leather
chairs and banquettes in various shades of coffee from dark roast to caf au lait, a reasonable
cocktail menu, and an upstairs dance floor
that hosts DJs and live bands.
Ardhowen Theatre (%6632 5440; www.ardhowen
theatre.com; Dublin Rd; hbox office 11am-4.30pm MonFri, 10am-7pm before a performance, 11am-1pm, 2-5pm &
6-7pm Sat) The programme includes concerts,

local amateur and professional drama and

musical productions, pantomimes and films.
The theatre is about 2km southeast of the
town centre on the A4, in an impressive glassfronted building overlooking a lake.
Enniskillen Omniplex (%6632 4777; www.omniplex
.ie; Factory Rd) A seven-screen cinema, 700m north
of the town centre on Race Course Lough.

Shopping
Buttermarket (%6632 4499; Down St) The refurbished buildings in the old marketplace
house a variety of craft shops and studios selling paintings, ceramics, jewellery and even
fishing flies.
Erneside Shopping Centre (%6632 5705; The Point;
h9am-5.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, 9am-9pm Thu, 1-5pm
Sun) A modern complex of shops, cafs and a

supermarket. The Millets store stocks camping and outdoor equipment.

Fermanagh Cottage Industries (%6632 2260; 14
East Bridge St) A craft shop selling linen, lace
and tweed.
Home, Field & Stream (%6632 2114; 18 Church St)
Has a wide range of fishing tackle and also
sells fishing licences and permits.
Dolans Centra (3 High St; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Sat,
9am-9pm Sun) A handy, late-opening minimarket and post-office counter; also sells
Sunday newspapers.

Getting There & Away

Ulsterbus service 261 runs from Enniskillen
to Belfast (9, 2 hours, hourly Monday to
Saturday, two Sunday) via Dungannon. Bus
296 runs to Omagh (5, one hour, one daily
Monday to Saturday) and, in the other direction, to Cork (8 hours; change at Longford)
via Athlone (3 hours). Bus 99 goes from
Enniskillen to Bundoran (6, 1 hours, four
daily Monday to Saturday, two on Sundays)
via Belleek (45 minutes).
Bus ireanns 66 service runs to Sligo (7,
1 hours, five daily Monday to Saturday,

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

lonelyplanet.com

Te
m
p

200 m
0.1 miles

680 C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H E n n i s k i l l e n

682 C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H A r o u n d E n n i s k i l l e n

two on Sundays) via Belcoo, and bus 30 between Dublin (12, 2 hours, seven daily
Monday to Saturday, four Sunday) and Donegal (one hour) also stops in at Enniskillen
and Belleek.

AROUND ENNISKILLEN
Castle Coole

child 5/2.20; hnoon-6pm daily Jul & Aug, 1-6pm Fri-Wed

Jun, 1-6pm Sat, Sun & public hols Apr, May & Sep).

Designed by James Wyatt, this Palladian

mansion was built between 1789 and 1795 for
Armar Lowry-Corry, the first earl of Belmore,
and is probably the purest expression of late18th-century neoclassical architecture in Ireland. It is built of silvery-white Portland stone,
which was brought in at great expense from
southern England by ship to Ballyshannon,
then overland to Lough Erne, by boat again
to Enniskillen, and finally by bullock cart for
the last 3km.
Building costs of 70,000 nearly bankrupted the first earl, but that didnt stop his
son Somerset Lowry-Corry, the second earl,
spending another 35,000 on exuberant Regency furnishings and decoration, best seen
in the opulent, oval saloon where the family
and friends would gather before dinner. The
seventh earl of Belmore, John Armar LowryCorry, reserves part of the house for his private use, but most of the building is under the
care of the National Trust.
The 600 hectares of landscaped grounds
(car/pedestrian 2/free; h10am-8pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm
Oct-Mar) contain a lake that is home to the UKs

only nonmigratory colony of greylag geese. It

is said that if the geese ever leave, the earls of
Belmore will lose Castle Coole.
Castle Coole is on the A4 Dublin road,
2.5km southeast of Enniskillen. You can easily
walk there from Enniskillen town centre in 30
minutes fork left beyond Dunnes Stores and
keep straight on along Castlecoole Rd.

Sheelin Irish Lace Museum

This museum (%6634 8052; www.irishlacemuseum
.com; Bellanaleck; adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm
Mon-Sat Apr-Oct) houses a collection of beauti-

ful Irish lace dating from 1850 to 1900. Lace

making was an important cottage industry in
the region both before and after the Famine
prior to WWI there were at least 10 lace
schools in County Fermanagh. The museum
is just over 6km southwest of Enniskillen in
the village of Bellanaleck.

UPPER LOUGH ERNE

About 80km long, Lough Erne is made up of
two sections: the Upper Lough to the south
of Enniskillen, and the Lower Lough to the
north. The two are connected by the River
Erne, which begins its journey in County
Cavan and meets the sea at Donegal Bay west
of Ballyshannon.
Upper Lough Erne is not so much a lake
as a watery maze of islands (more than 150
of them), inlets, reedy bays and meandering
backwaters. Bird life is abundant, with flocks
of whooper swan and goldeneye overwintering here, great crested grebes nesting in
the spring, and Irelands biggest heronry in a
400-year-old oak grove on the island of Inishfendra, just south of Crom Estate.
Lisnaskea is the main town, with shops,
pubs, ATMs and a post office. An island at
the north end of the lough, near Lisbellaw, is
home to the Belle Isle School of Cookery (%6638
7231; www.irish-cookery-school.com) which offers a
range of cookery and wine courses lasting
from one day to four weeks, with luxurious
accommodation in Belle Isle Castle and its
estate cottages. One-day courses cost 100,
not including accommodation.

Crom Estate
Home to the largest area of natural woodland in Northern Ireland, the National
Trusts beautiful Crom Estate (% 6773 8118;
Newtownbutler; car/pedestrian 5.50/free; h grounds
10am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm mid-MarMay & Sep; visitor
centre 10am-6pm Easter Week & May-midSep, to 6pm Sat
& Sun mid-MarApr & late Sep; w) is a haven for

pine martens, rare bats and many species

of bird.
You can walk from the visitor centre to
the ruins of old Crom Castle, with its old
walled garden, abandoned bowling green
and ancient yew trees, and views over the
reed-fringed lough to an island folly. There

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

are rowing boats for hire (5 per hour), and

camping facilities (10 per tent per night).
Check the National Trust website (www.ntni
.org.uk) for details on bat-watching and other
wildlife events.
The estate is on the eastern shore of the
Upper Lough, 5km west of Newtownbutler.

Tours
The Inishcruiser (%6772 2122; adult/child/family
7/5/20; h2.30pm Sun & public hols Easter-Sep;w) offers 1- to two-hour cruises on the lough
leaving from the Share Holiday Village 5km
southwest of Lisnaskea.

Activities
Day boats can be hired for fishing or exploring from Knockninny Marina (%6774 8590; near
Derrylin) on the west shore of the lough; rates
are 40/60 per half-/full-day for a six-seater
motor boat with cabin. The marina also
rents bikes for 4.50/10 a half-/full-day. It
is signposted from the main road just north
of Derrylin.
Guests at the Share Holiday Village (%6772
2122; www.sharevillage.org) near Lisnaskea can take
part in canoeing, windsurfing, dinghy sailing, archery, orienteering and other activities
for 10 per person per 2-hour session.

Sleeping & Eating

Lisnaskea Caravan Park (%6772 1040; Gola Rd, Mullynascarty; camp/caravan sites 8/12; hApr-Oct) This local
council-run site enjoys a beautiful wooded
setting on the banks of the Colebrooke River
about 2km northwest of Lisnaskea, on the
B514 road towards Enniskillen.
Share Holiday Village (%6772 2122; www.share
village.org; Smiths Strand, Lisnaskea; camp/caravan sites
9.50/13.50; hEaster-Sep) Share is a charity that

works towards the integration of people with

and without disabilities through a range of
activities and courses. The holiday village is
mostly occupied by groups, but it also has a
touring site with space for 13 caravans and
10 tents. Booking is strongly recommended.
The village is 5km southwest of Lisnaskea,
off the B127.
Donn Carragh Hotel (% 6772 1206; www.donn
carraghhotel.com; Main St, Lisnaskea; s/d 40/70; p )

Theres not too much in the way of hotel or

B&B accommodation around Upper Lough
Erne; this pleasant but unexceptional 18room hotel in the middle of Lisnaskea is
the best of what there is.

C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H L o w e r L o u g h E r n e 683

Knockninny House (%6774 8590; www.knockninny

marina.com; near Derrylin; apt from 75/250/400 a night/
weekend/week; mains 3-7; hcafe 10am-5.30pm; p) A
Victorian villa and Lough Ernes first hotel,
Knockninny House, built in the 1870s, enjoys
an idyllic lakeside setting, and now offers accommodation in two luxurious self-catering
apartments (one sleeps five, the other seven),
available by the night (weekdays only), weekend or week. Theres also a caf-patisserie with
an outdoor terrace overlooking the marina,
and a tiny sandy beach.
Kissin Crust (%6772 2678; 125 Main St, Lisnaskea;
mains 2-5; h8.30am-5pm) Very popular with local
people, this friendly coffee shop is stacked
with home-baked apple pie, lemon meringue
pie, quiches and scones, and serves up a lunch
menu of home-made soup, freshly made sandwiches and a hot dish of the day.

Getting There & Away

From Enniskillen, Ulsterbus service 95 runs
along the east side of the lough to Lisnaskea
(3, 25 minutes, five daily Monday to Friday,
three on Saturdays, plus one on Sundays in
July and August only), while bus 58 goes down
the west side to Derrylin (3, 40 minutes, six
daily Monday to Friday, four on Saturdays),
and continues to Belturbet in County Cavan.

LOWER LOUGH ERNE

Lower Lough Erne is a much more open expanse of water than the Upper Lough, with its
90-odd islands clustered mainly in the southern reaches. In early Christian times, when
overland travel was difficult, Lough Erne was
an important highway between the Donegal
coast and inland Leitrim, and there are many
ancient religious sites and other antiquities
dotted around its shores. In medieval times
the lough was part of an important pilgrimage route to Station Island in Lough Derg,
County Donegal.
The following sights are described travelling anticlockwise around the lough
from Enniskillen.

Devenish Island
Devenish Island (Daimh Inis, meaning Ox
Island) is the biggest of several holy islands
in Lough Erne. The remains of an Augustinian monastery, founded here in the 6th century
by St Molaise, include a superb 12th-century
round tower in near perfect condition, the ruins
of St Molaises Church and St Marys Abbey,

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

When King George IV visited Ireland in 1821,

the second earl of Belmore had a state bedroom specially prepared at Castle Coole in
anticipation of a visit from the monarch. The
king, however, was more interested in dallying
with his mistress at Slane Castle, and never
turned up. The bedroom, draped in red silk
and decorated with paintings depicting The
Rakes Progress (the earls sniffy riposte to the
kings extramarital shenanigans), is one of the
highlights of the one-hour guided tour around
Castle Coole (%6632 2690; Dublin Rd, Enniskillen; adult/

lonelyplanet.com

684 C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H L o w e r L o u g h E r n e

an unusual 15th-century high cross, and many

fascinating old gravestones. Four ladders allow
you to climb to the top of the round tower for
a cramped view out of the five tiny windows.
A speedboat ferry (%6862 1588; adult/child return
3/2; h10am, 1pm, 3pm & 5pm daily Apr-Sep) crosses
to Devenish Island from Trory Point landing. From Enniskillen, take the A32 towards
Irvinestown and after 5km look for the sign
on the left, just after a service station and immediately before the junction where the B82
and A32 part company. At the foot of the hill
by the lough, turn left for the jetty.
You can also visit as part of a cruise with
Erne Tours (p678) from Enniskillen.
The churchyard at Killadeas, 11km north of
Enniskillen on the B82, contains several unusual carved stones. Most famous is the 1mhigh Bishops Stone, dating from between the
7th and 9th centuries, which has a Celtic head
reminiscent of the White Island figures carved
on its narrow western edge, and an engraving
of a bishop with bell and crozier on the side.
Located nearby is a slab set on edge, with
several deep cup-marks (possibly bullauns)
on one side, and a cross within a circle on
the other. You will also find a broken phallic
column and a large, perforated stone.
TOURS

The Lady of the Lake (%6862 2200; www.ladyofthelake

tours.com), based at the Erne Palace restaurant
2km north of the Manor House, offers cruises
on the lough on Saturday and Sunday.
SLEEPING & EATING

estate of 18th-century Archdale Manor. The

island-filled bay was used in WWII as a base
for Catalina flying boats, a history explained
in the visitor centre (admission free; h11am-7pm TueSun Jul & Aug, noon-6pm Sun Easter-Jun).
You can hire bikes for 4/8/12 per hour/halfday/day, or swap two wheels for four legs
the park offers pony trekking (15 per hour)
and short rides (5 per 15 minutes) for beginners. There are also boats for hire (30/45/60
per two hours/half-day/day), and you can also
rent fishing rods (5 a day including bait).
The park is 16km northwest of Enniskillen
on the B82, near Lisnarick.
SLEEPING & EATING

Castle Archdale Caravan Park (%6862 1333; www

.castlearchdale.com; Castle Archdale Country Park; camp sites
10-15, caravan sites 15; hEaster-Oct) This attractive,

tree-sheltered site is dominated by onsite caravans, but has good facilities, including a shop,
launderette, playground and restaurant.
oCedars Guesthouse (%6862 1493; www
.cedarsguesthouse.com; Drummal, Castle Archdale; s/d from
40/60; p) Set in a former rectory just south

of the park entrance, this peaceful 10-room

guesthouse goes for a Victorian country
house feel, with rose-patterned bedspreads
and antique-style furniture.
Rectory Bistro (mains 11-15; h6-9pm Wed-Sat,
12.30-3pm & 5-9pm Sun) Adjoining the Cedars
Guesthouse, this bistro has a welcoming open
fireplace, lots of golden pine lit by chunky
candles and a sprinkling of Gothic motifs,
with an aspirational menu that ranges from
seafood chowder to monkfish fried with black
pepper and ginger.

The Manor House Country Hotel (%6862 2211; www

White Island

.manor-house-hotel.com; Killadeas; s/d from 100/125; p)

White Island, in the bay to the north of Castle

Archdale Country Park, is the most haunting
of Lough Ernes monastic sites. At the eastern
tip of the island are the ruins of a small 12thcentury church with a beautiful Romanesque
door on its southern side. Inside are six extraordinary Celtic stone figures, thought to
date from the 9th century, lined up along the
wall like miniature Easter Island statues.
This line-up is a modern arrangement;
most of them were discovered buried in the
walls of the church in the 19th century, where
the medieval masons had used them as ordinary building stones. The six main figures,
all created by the same hand, are flanked on
the left by a sheila-na-gig, which is probably

A grand, 19th-century country house overlooking Lough Erne. It has had a thorough
makeover in neoclassical style, complete with
Greek temple-style lobby, Romanesque pool
and Jacuzzis with a view over the lough. The
public areas are impressive but the rooms,
though luxurious, are a bit on the bland side.
The hotels Watergate Bar serves decent pub
grub (mains 8 to 12), and has live music
at weekends.

Castle Archdale Country Park

This park (%6862 1588; Lisnarick; admission free;
h9am-dusk), has pleasant woodland and lakeshore walks and cycle tracks in the former

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

contemporary with the church, and flanked

on the right by a scowling stone face. The
age and interpretation of these figures has
been the subject of much debate; it has been
suggested that the two central pairs, of equal
height, were pillars that once supported a
pulpit, and that they represent either saints
or aspects of the life of Christ.
The first figure is holding a book (Christ
the Evangelist?) and the second holds a bishops crozier and bell (Christ as Bishop?). The
third has been identified as the young King
David, author of the Psalms. The fourth is
holding the necks of two griffins (symbols
of Christs dual nature as both human and
divine?). The fifth bears a sword and shield
(Christs Second Coming?) and the sixth
is unfinished.
A ferry (%6862 1892; adult/child 3/2; h11am-6pm
daily Jul & Aug, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Jun & Sep) crosses to
the island hourly, on the hour (except for 1pm)
from the marina in Castle Archdale Country
Park; buy your ticket from the Billieve Boat
Hire office. The crossing takes 15 minutes, and
allows you around half an hour on the island.

Boa Island

C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H L o w e r L o u g h E r n e 685

and serves everything from baked potatoes

to smoked Irish salmon. You can summon
the ferry from a telephone in the blockhouse
on the slipway.

Castle Caldwell Forest Park

Castle Caldwell, built between 1610 and
1619, is nothing but a ruin, but the park (admission free; h24hr), about halfway between Boa
Island and Belleek, has a nature reserve full
of bird life, and is a major breeding ground
for the common scoter.
At the entrance to the park is the Fiddle
Stone (in the shape of a fiddle). The inscription, now too worn to read, commemorated
a favourite musician who fell out of a boat
while drunk:
On firm land only exercise your
skill; there you may play and safely
drink your fill. To the memory of
Denis McCabe, Fiddler, who fell out
of the St Patrick Barge belonging to
Sir James Caldwell Bart. and Count
of Milan and was drowned off this
point August ye 13 1770.

Boa Island, at the northern end of Lower

Lough Erne, is connected to the mainland at
both ends the main A47 road runs along its
length. Spooky, moss-grown Caldragh graveyard, towards the western end of the island,
contains the famous Janus Stone. Perhaps 2000
years old, this pagan figure is carved with two
grotesque human heads, back to back. Nearby
is a smaller figure called the Lusty Man, brought
here from Lusty More island. Their origin and
meaning have been lost in the mists of time.
Theres a small sign indicating the graveyard, about 1.5km from the bridge at the western tip of the island.

Belleek

SLEEPING & EATING

St; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun

Mar-Oct, 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri & 10am-5.30pm Sat Nov &
Dec, 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri Jan & Feb), founded in 1857

Lusty Beg Island (%6863 3300; www.lustybeg.co.uk; Boa

Island, Kesh; s/d 65/90; ps) This private island
retreat, reached by ferry from a jetty halfway
along Boa Island, has self-catering chalets to
let (435 to 740 a week in July and August,
sleeping four to six people) but also offers
B&B in its rustic 18-room Courtyard Motel.
Theres a tennis court, nature trail and canoeing on the lough for residents
The informal Island Lodge Restaurant
(% 6863 1342; bar meals 7-12, 4-course dinner 25;
h1-9pm Jul & Aug) on the island is open to all,

pop 550

Belleeks (Beal Leice) village street of colourful, flower-bedecked houses slopes

up from a bridge across the River Erne,
where it flows out of the Lower Lough
towards Ballyshannon and the sea. The
village is right on the border the road
south across the bridge passes through
a finger of the Republics territory for
about 200m before leaving again
and shops accept both sterling and euros.
The imposing Georgian-style building
beside the bridge houses the world-famous
Belleek Pottery (%6865 9300; www.belleek.ie; Main

to provide local employment in the wake of

the Potato Famine. It has been producing
fine Parian china ever since, and is especially
noted for its delicate basketware. The visitor
centre houses a small museum, showroom
and restaurant, and there are guided tours
(adult/child 4/free) of the pottery every halfhour from 9.30am to 12.15pm and 1.45pm
to 4pm (till 3pm on Friday) Monday to Friday year round.

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

Killadeas

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

686 C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H L o w e r L o u g h E r n e

Moohans Fiddlestone (%6665 8008; 15-17 Main St;

s/d 35/50; p) This is a traditional Irish pub
offering B&B in five en-suite rooms upstairs.
The lively bar downstairs is a popular venue
for impromptu music sessions, so dont expect peace and quiet in the evenings.
Hotel Carlton (% 6865 8282; www.hotelcarlton
.co.uk; Main St; s/d 60/90; p) Though the rooms
are plush and luxurious, the family-friendly
Carlton has a welcoming and informal feel
to it, and a lovely setting on the banks of
the River Erne. There are frequent live music
sessions in Potters Bar at the hotel.
Thatch Coffee Shop (% 6865 8181; 20 Main St;
mains 4-5; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) This cute little
thatched cottage may be Belleeks oldest
building (late 18th century), but it serves
a thoroughly modern cup of coffee plus a
range of home-made cakes and scones, soup
and sandwiches.
Black Cat Cove (%6865 8942; 28 Main St; mains 610; hnoon-9pm) This friendly, family-run pub
with antique furniture and an open fire, that
serves excellent bar meals. It also has music
on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday
nights from May to September.

Activities

ginning of March to the end of September.

Salmon fishing begins in June and also continues to the end of September. The mayfly
season usually lasts a month from the second
week in May. Theres no closed season for
coarse fish.
Youll need both a licence (issued by the
Fisheries Conservancy Board) and a permit
(from the owner of the fishery). Licences and
permits can be purchased from the tourist
information centre (p677) and Home, Field
& Stream (p681), both in Enniskillen, and
from the marina in Castle Archdale Country Park (p684), which also hires out fishing rods. A combined licence and permit for
game fishing on Lough Erne costs 8.50/23
for three/14 days.
The Belleek Angling Centre in the Thatch
Coffee Shop (left) in Belleek sells fishing
tackle and can arrange boat hire for anglers, and you can get expert instruction
in fly-casting from Michael Shortt (% 6638
8184; fish.teach@virgin.net).
Enniskillens tourist information centre
also provides a free guide to angling in Fermanagh and South Tyrone, which has full
details of lakes and rivers, fish species, seasons and permit requirements.

FISHING

BOAT HIRE

The lakes of Fermanagh are renowned for

both coarse and game fishing. The Lough
Erne trout-fishing season runs from the be-

A number of companies hire out day boats at

Enniskillen, Killadeas, Castle Archdale Country Park, Kesh and Belleek. Rates are about

WALK: THE CLIFFS OF MAGHO

The Cliffs of Magho a 250m-high and 9km-long limestone escarpment dominate the western end of Lough Erne, rising above a fringe of native woodland on the south shore. The view
from the cliff top is one of the finest in Ireland, especially towards sunset, looking out over the
shimmering expanse of lough and river to the Blue Stack Mountains, the sparkling waters of
Donegal Bay and the sea cliffs of Slieve League. The hike to the top is strenuous, but not too
long (2.5km round trip; allow one to two hours); the path is rough, and crumbling in places, so
youll need good hiking boots.
Begin at the Lough Navar Forest Park car park on the A46 road, 13km east of Belleek. Head
straight uphill on a gravel track and the woodland path beyond. As the slope increases, the
path begins to zigzag steeply up through broad-leaved woodland; the ground is bright with
primroses in springtime. At the top, as the angle eases, the path cuts back right; where it forks,
keep right. As you emerge from the trees the view bursts upon you unexpectedly, a fine reward
for your efforts. You can follow the path along the cliff top for another 500m, with a choice of
prime spots to sit down and enjoy a picnic.
Note: you can also reach the Magho viewpoint by car. The vehicle entrance to Lough Navar
Forest Park (car 3; h10am-dusk) is on the minor Glennasheevar road between Garrison and
Derrygonnelly, 20km southeast of Belleek (take the B52 towards Garrison, and fork left after
2.5km). Not as satisfying as the hike, though.

lonelyplanet.com

10 to 15 per hour for an open rowing boat

with outboard motor, to 50/75 per half-/fullday for a six-seater with cabin and engine. The
tourist information centre in Enniskillen has
a full list of companies and costs.
CANOEING

The Lough Erne Canoe Trail (www.nicanoeing.com)

highlights the attractions along the 50km of
lough and river between Belleek and Belturbet. The wide open expanses of the Lower
Lough can build up big waves in a strong
breeze, and is best left to experts, but the sheltered backwaters of the Upper Lough are ideal
for beginners and families.
You can pick up a map and guide (1.50),
showing public access points, camping sites
and other facilities along the trail from
the tourist information office in Enniskillen (p677). Canoe hire is available from
the Lakeland Canoe Centre (p677), also
in Enniskillen, and Ultimate Watersports
(see below).
WATERSPORTS

Working out of Castle Archdale marina and

Lusty Beg island, Ultimate Watersports (%07808736818 or 07863-344172; www.ultimatewatersports.co.uk)

offer equipment hire and instruction in waterskiing, wakeboarding, jet-skiing, canoeing,

dinghy sailing and power-boating.

Getting There & Away

On the eastern side of the lough, Ulsterbus
service 194 from Enniskillen to Pettigo via
Irvinestown (four or five daily Monday to
Saturday) stops near Castle Archdale Country
Park (35 minutes) and Kesh (one hour). Bus

C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H W e s t o f L o u g h E r n e 687

99 goes from Enniskillen to Belleek (4, 45

minutes, four daily Monday to Saturday, two
on Sundays) along the western shoreline via
Blaney, Tully Castle and the Cliffs of Magho
car park, terminating at Bundoran.
Bus 64 travels from Enniskillen to Belcoo
(2, 25 minutes, seven or eight daily Monday to Friday, three on Saturdays, one on
Sundays); the Sunday bus and two of the
Thursday buses continue to Garrison, Belleek and Bundoran.

WEST OF LOUGH ERNE

Florence Court

Part of the motivation for the first earl of Belmore to build Castle Coole (near Enniskillen;
p682) was keeping up with the Joneses in
the 1770s his aristocratic neighbour William
Willoughby Cole, the first earl of Enniskillen,
had overseen the addition of grand, Palladian wings to the beautiful, baroque country
house called Florence Court, named after his
Cornish grandmother Florence Wrey.
Set in lovely wooded grounds in the shadow
of Cuilcagh Mountain, Florence Court (%6634
8249; Swanlinbar Rd, Florencecourt; adult/child 5/2.20;
hnoon-6pm daily Easter Week, Jul & Aug, 1-6pm Wed-Mon
Jun, 1-6pm Sat, Sun & public hols Apr, May & Sep) is fa-

mous for its rococo plasterwork and antique

Irish furniture. The house was badly damaged
by a fire in 1955 and much of what you see
on the one-hour guided tour is the result of
meticulous restoration, but the magnificent
plasterwork on the ceiling of the dining room
is original.
Florence Court feels more homely and
lived-in than the rather cold and austere
Castle Coole, especially since the family

CRUISING HOLIDAYS ON LOUGH ERNE

If you fancy exploring Lough Erne as captain of your own motor cruiser, well, you can and
without any previous experience or qualification. Several companies in Fermanagh hire out selfdrive, live-aboard cabin cruisers by the week, offering a crash course (not literally, you hope) in
boat-handling and navigation at the start of your holiday. Weekly rates in high season (July and
August) range from about 600 for a two-berth to 1000 for a four-berth and 1600 for an eightberth boat. Low- and mid-season rates are around 70% to 90% of the high-season rates.
The main cruiser hire companies in Fermanagh are:
Aghinver Boat Company (%6863 1400; www.abcboats.com; Lisnarick, Lower Lough Erne)
Carrick Craft (%3834 4993; www.cruise-ireland.com; Tully Bay, Lower Lough Erne)
Carrybridge Boat Company (%6638 7034; Carrybridge, Lisbellaw, Upper Lough Erne)
Corraquill Cruising Holidays (%6774 8712; www.corraquill.co.uk; Drumetta, Aghalane, Derrylin, Upper

Lough Erne)
Manor House Marine (%6862 8100; www.manormarine.com; Killadeas, Lower Lough Erne)

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

SLEEPING & EATING

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

688 C O U N T Y F E R MA N A G H W e s t o f L o u g h E r n e

Marble Arch Caves

To the south of Lower Lough Erne lies a limestone plateau, where Fermanaghs abundant
rainwater has carved out a network of subterranean caverns. The largest of these is Marble Arch Caves (%6634 8855; www.marblearchcaves
.net; Marlbank Scenic Loop, Florencecourt; adult/child 8/5;
h10am-5pm Jul & Aug, to 4.30pm Easter-Jun & Sep), first

explored by the French caving pioneer Edouard Martel in 1895, but not opened to the
public until 1985.
The 1-hour tour of the caves begins
with a short boat trip along the peaty,
foam-flecked waters of the underground
River Cladagh to Junction Jetty, where three
subterranean streams the Owenbrean, the
Aghinrawn and the Sluh Croppa, which
drain the northern slopes of Cuilcagh Mountain meet up. You then continue on foot
past the Grand Gallery and Pool Chamber,

WALK: CUILCAGH MOUNTAIN VIA THE LEGNABROCKY TRAIL

Rising above Marble Arch and Florence Court like a miniature Mount Roraima, Cuilcagh (pronounced cull-kay) Mountain (666m) is the highest point in Counties Fermanagh and Cavan, its
summit right on the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic.
The mountain is a geological layer cake, with a cave-riddled limestone base, shale and sandstone
flanks draped with a shaggy tweed skirt of blanket bog, and a high gritstone plateau ringed by steep,
craggy slopes, all part of the Marble Arch Caves European Geopark (www.europeangeoparks.org).
Hidden among the sphagnum moss, bog cotton and heather of the blanket bog, you can find
the sticky-fingered sundew, an insect-eating plant, while the crags echo to the krok-krok-krok
of ravens and the mewing of peregrine falcons. The otherworldly summit plateau, strewn with
boulders and riven by deep fissures in the gritstone bedrock, is a breeding ground for golden
plover and is rich in rare plants such as alpine clubmoss.
The hike to the summit is a 15km round trip (allow five or six hours); the first part is on an easy
gravel track, but youll need good boots to negotiate the boggy ground and steep slopes further
on. Start at the Cuilcagh Mountain Park car park, 300m west of the entrance to Marble Arch Caves
visitor centre (grid reference 121335; youll need the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Discovery series map,
sheet 26). Right next to the car park is the Monastir sink hole, a deep depression ringed by limestone
cliffs where the Aghinrawn River disappears underground for its journey through the Marble Arch
Caves system. (Note that the OS map has wrongly labelled this river the Owenbrean.)
Climb the stile beside the gate and set out along the Legnabrocky Trail, a 4WD track that winds
through rich green limestone meadows before climbing across the blanket bog on a floating
bed of gravel and geotextiles boardwalks off to one side offer a closer look at bog regeneration
areas. The gravel track comes to an end at a gate about 4.5km from the start. From here you
follow a line of waymarked wooden posts, squelching your way across spongy bog (dont stray
from the route there are deep bog holes where you can get stuck) before climbing steeply up
to the summit ridge, with great views west to the crags above little Lough Atona. The waymarkers
come to an end here, so youre on your own for the final kilometre across the plateau, aiming for
the prominent cairn on the summit (a map and compass are essential in poor visibility).
The summit cairn is actually a Neolithic burial chamber; about 100m south of the summit
you will find two rings of boulders, the foundations of prehistoric huts. On a clear day the view
extends from the Blue Stack Mountains of Donegal to Croagh Patrick, and from the Atlantic
Ocean to the Irish Sea. Return the way you came.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

regaled all the time with food-related jokes

from your guide. A man-made tunnel leads
into the New Chamber (pioneering cave explorers originally wriggled through a natural tunnel high above here), from which the
route follows the underground Owenbrean
River, through the Moses Walk (a pathway
sunk waist-deep into the river) to the Calcite
Cradle, where the most picturesque formations are to be found. The caves are very
popular, so its wise to phone ahead and
book a tour, especially if youre in a group
of four or more. (The listed closing time is
the starting time of the last tour.)
The caves take their name from a natural
limestone arch that spans the River Cladagh
where it emerges from the caves; you can
reach it via a short walk along a signposted
footpath from the visitor centre.
Unexpected serious flooding of the caves
in the 1990s was found to have been caused
by mechanised peat-cutting in the blanket
bog one of Irelands biggest on the
slopes of Cuilcagh Mountain, whose rivers
feed the caves. Cuilcagh Mountain Park was then
established to restore and preserve the bog
environment, and in 2001 the entire area
was designated a Unesco Geopark. The
parks geology and ecology are explained in
the caves visitor centre.
The Marble Arch Caves are 16km southwest of Enniskillen, and some 4km from
Florence Court (an hours walk), reached
via the A4 Sligo road and the A32.

Loughs Melvin & Macnean

Lough Melvin and Lough Macnean are situated along the border with the Republic, on
the B52 road from Belcoo to Belleek. Lough
Melvin is famous for its salmon and trout
fishing, and is home to two unusual trout species the sonaghan, with its distinctive black
spots, and the crimson-spotted gillaroo
that are unique to the lough, as well as
brown trout, ferox trout and char.
The lakeside Lough Melvin Holiday Centre
(%6865 8142; www.melvinholidaycentre.com; Garrison;
camp sites 9, caravan sites 13.50, dm 17-20, d from 30)

offers caving, canoeing, walking and fishing

holidays, and also has a camp site, dorm accommodation, en-suite rooms, and a restaurant and a coffee shop.
Corralea Activity Centre (%6638 6668; www.activity
ireland.com; Belcoo), based on Upper Lough Macnean, hires out bicycles (10/15 per half-/

C O U N T Y T Y R O N E O m a g h 689

full-day) and two-person canoes (half-/fullday 15/20). It also offers instruction in activities such as caving, canoeing, climbing,
windsurfing and archery from 22 per day.
The Customs House Country Inn (%6638 6285;
www.customshouseinn.com; Main St, Belcoo; s/d from 40/60;
2-/3-course dinner 18/21; p) is a welcoming pub

decked out in acres of waxed oak and pine,

with a cosy, candlelit restaurant and nine
en-suite bedrooms, many with good views
of Lough Macnean.
There is also gourmet dining a few hundred metres across the border in Blacklion,
County Cavan (p483).

COUNTY TYRONE
OMAGH
pop 20,000

Situated at the confluence of the Rivers

Camowen and Drumragh, which join to
form the River Strule, Omagh is a busy
market town that serves as a useful base for
exploring the surrounding area by car.
Sadly, for a long time to come Omagh
(An ghmagh) will be remembered for the
devastating car bomb in 1998 that killed
29 people and injured 200. Planted by the
breakaway group Real IRA, the bomb was
the worst single atrocity in the 30-year history of the Troubles. A memorial garden on
Drumragh Avenue, 200m east of the bus station, remembers the dead.
The tourist information centre (%8224 7831;
tourism@omagh.gov.uk; Strule Arts Centre, Town Hall Sq,
Bridge St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep, Mon-Fri Oct-Mar)

is in the new arts centre, just across the river

from the bus station. It has a Town Trail leaflet that guides you around Omaghs remaining historic buildings.

Sleeping & Eating

Omagh Independent Hostel (%8224 1973; www.omagh
hostel.co.uk; 9a Waterworks Rd; dm/tw from 10/24, camp sites
12; hMar-Oct) This peaceful, family-friendly

and eco-friendly hostel is 4km northeast of

town, tucked away on a back road off the B48
to Gortin. The lovely, rural setting is awash
with flowers in summer; if you prefer, you can
pitch a tent outside. If you ring from the bus
station someone will come and pick you up.
oMullaghmore House (%8224 2314; www
.mullaghmorehouse.com; Old Mountfield Rd; s 34-42, d 78;

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

belongings of the sixth earl were returned.

(The earl had a falling out with the National
Trust in 1974 and stomped off to Scotland with
all his stuff; it was returned after the death of
his widow in 1998.) The library, in particular,
feels as if the last earl has just nipped out for a
stroll and could return at any minute.
In the grounds (car/pedestrian 3.50/free; h10am8pm May-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Apr) you can explore
the walled garden and, on the edge of Cottage Wood, southeast of the house, admire
an ancient Irish yew tree. Its said that every
Irish yew around the world is descended from
this one.
The house is 12km southwest of Enniskillen. Take the A4 Sligo road and fork left onto
the A32 to Swanlinbar. Ulsterbus service 192
from Enniskillen to Swanlinbar can drop
you at Creamery Cross, about 2km from
the house.

lonelyplanet.com

690 C O U N T Y T Y R O N E A r o u n d O m a g h

luxury, this beautifully restored Georgian

villa boasts a gleaming mahogany-panelled
library, billiards room and marble-lined steam
room. The bedrooms have period cast-iron
fireplaces and antique furniture, and the owners run courses on antique restoration and
traditional crafts. Its 1.5km northeast of the
town centre.
Riverfront Coffee Shop (%8225 0011; 38 Market St;
sandwiches 2-4; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) This lively
little eatery serves up excellent coffee, cakes,
quiche, home-made soup, and mix-your-own
sandwiches on baguettes, panini or ciabatta
rolls, and also provides vegetarian, coeliacfriendly and low-carb options.
Grants of Omagh (%8225 0900; 29 Georges St; mains
7-15; h4-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun) Grants
as in US president Ulysses S Grant bathes in
a golden glow of Irish emigrant nostalgia, from
the fiddle and bodhrn on the wall above the
smoke-blackened fireplace in the front bar to the
American-themed restaurant in the back, with a
menu that ranges from steak, burgers and lasagne to Cajun chicken and spicy enchiladas.

Getting There & Away

The bus station is on Mountjoy Rd, just north
of the town centre along Bridge St.
Goldline Express bus 273 goes from Belfast
to Omagh (9, 1 hours, hourly Monday to
Saturday, six on Sundays) via Dungannon
and on to Derry (7, 1 hours). Bus 94 goes
to Enniskillen (6, one hour, five or six daily
Monday to Friday, three on Saturdays, one on
Sundays) where you can change for Donegal,
Bundoran or Sligo. Goldline Express bus 274
runs from Derry to Omagh (7, one hour,
every two hours), and continues to Dublin
(11, three hours) via Monaghan.

AROUND OMAGH

Ulster American Folk Park

In the 18th and 19th centuries thousands of
Ulster people left their homes to forge a new
life across the Atlantic; 200,000 emigrated in the
18th century alone. Their story is told here at
one of Irelands best museums, the Ulster American Folk Park (%8224 3292; www.folkpark.com; Mellon Rd;
adult/child 4.50/2.50; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6.30pm
Sun & public holidays Apr-Sep, 10.30am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar).

Last admission is 1 hours before closing.

The Exhibition Hall explains the close connections between Ulster and the USA the
American Declaration of Independence was

signed by several Ulstermen and includes

a genuine Calistoga wagon. But the real appeal of the folk park is the outdoor museum
where the living history exhibits are split
into Old World and New World areas, cleverly linked by passing through a mock-up of
an emigrant ship. Original buildings from
various parts of Ulster have been dismantled
and re-erected here, including a blacksmiths
forge, a weavers thatched cottage, a Presbyterian meeting house and a schoolhouse. In
the American section of the park you can
visit a genuine 18th-century settlers stone
cottage and a log house, both shipped across
the Atlantic from Pennsylvania.
Costumed guides and artisans are on hand
to explain the arts of spinning, weaving, candle making and so on, and various events
are held throughout the year, including reenactments of American Civil War battles,
a festival of traditional Irish music in May,
American Independence Day celebrations
in July, and the Appalachian and Bluegrass
Music Festival in September. Theres almost
too much to absorb in one visit and at least
half a day is needed to do the place justice.
The park is 8km northwest of Omagh on
the A5. Bus 97 to Strabane stops outside
the park (15 minutes). Buses depart from
Omagh at 7.55am and 1.25pm Monday to
Friday, and return at 3.20pm and 4.50pm.
On Saturdays there are buses at 7.25am and
2.25pm, returning at 4.45pm (check times at
the tourist office; p689).

SPERRIN MOUNTAINS
When representatives of the London guilds
visited Ulster in 1609 the Lord Deputy of
Ireland made sure they were kept well away
from the Sperrin Mountains, fearing that the
sight of these bleak, moorland hills would
put them off the idea of planting settlers
here. And when it rains theres no denying
that the Sperrins can be dismal, but on a
sunny spring day, when the russet bogs and
yellow gorse stand out against a clear blue
sky, they can offer some grand walking. The
area is also dotted with thousands of standing stones and prehistoric tombs.
The main ridge of the Sperrins stretches for
30km along the border with County Derry.
The highest summit is Mt Sawel (678m), rising above the B47 road from Plumbridge to
Draperstown, a right little roller-coaster of a
road that undulates across the southern slopes

lonelyplanet.com

of the Sperrins. Halfway along it youll find

the Sperrin Heritage Centre (%8164 8142; 274 Glenelly
Rd, Cranagh; adult/child 2.70/1.65; h11.30am-5.30pm
Mon-Fri, 11.30am-6pm Sat, 2-6pm Sun Easter-Oct) which

offers an insight into the culture, natural

history and geology of the region. Gold has
been found in the Sperrins, and for an extra
85/45p you can try your luck at panning for
gold in a nearby stream.
If youre thinking of walking up Mt Sawel,
enquire at the Sperrin Heritage Centre about
the best route. The climb is easy enough in
good weather, but some farmers are not as
accommodating as others about hikers crossing their land.

Gortin
The village of Gortin, about 15km north
of Omagh, lies at the foot of Mullaghcarn
(542m), the southernmost of the Sperrin summits (unfortunately capped by two prominent
radio masts). Hundreds of hikers converge for
a mass ascent of the hill on Cairn Sunday (the
last Sunday in July), a revival of an ancient
pilgrimage that first petered out in the 19th
century. There are several good walks around
the village, and a scenic drive to Gortin Lakes,
with views north to the main Sperrin ridge.
A few kilometres south of Gortin, towards
Omagh, is Gortin Glen Forest Park (%8167 0666;
Gortin Rd; car/pedestrian 3/free; h10am-dusk), whose
dense conifer woodland is home to a herd
of Japanese sika deer. An 8km scenic drive
offers the chance to enjoy the views without
breaking into a sweat.
There is hostel accommodation at the Gortin Accommodation Suite (%8164 8346; www.gortin
.net; 62 Main St; dm/f 10/50), a modern outdoor
activity centre in the middle of Gortin village; it also has en-suite family rooms with
one double and two single beds.

Creggan
About halfway along the A505 between Omagh
and Cookstown (20km east of Omagh) is An
Creagn Visitor Centre (%8076 1112; www.an-creagan
.com; Creggan; admission free; h11am-6.30pm Apr-Sep,
11am-4.30pm Oct-Mar), with an exhibition cover-

ing the ecology of the surrounding bogs and

the archaeology of the region. Theres also a
restaurant and gift shop.
There are 44 prehistoric monuments
within 8km of the centre, including the
Beaghmore Stone Circles. What this site lacks in
stature the stones are all less than 1m tall

C O U N T Y T Y R O N E C o o k s t o w n & A r o u n d 691

TOP FIVE TRADITIONAL PUBS IN

NORTHERN IRELAND
Bittles Bar (p601)
Blakes of the Hollow (p681)
Grace Neills (p616)
Dufferin Arms (p621)
Peadar ODonnells (p652)

it makes up for in complexity, with seven

stone circles (one filled with smaller stones,
nicknamed dragons teeth) and a dozen or
so alignments and cairns. The stones are
signposted about 8km east of Creggan, and
4km north of the A505.

Getting Around
Ulsterbus service 403, known as the Sperrin Rambler, runs twice daily Monday to
Saturday between Omagh and Magherafelt, stopping at Gortin, the Sperrin Heritage Centre and Draperstown (in County
Derry). The morning bus leaves Omagh at
10.05am, arriving at the Sperrin Heritage
Centre at 11am; the return bus leaves the
centre at 2.40pm.

COOKSTOWN & AROUND

Cookstown boasts the longest (2km) and
widest (40m) street in Ireland, the legacy of
an over-ambitious 18th-century town planner, but apart from that theres not much to
see in town. The main sights here are in the
surrounding countryside.
The tourist information centre (%8676 9949;
www.cookstown.gov.uk; Burn Rd, Cookstown; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat year round, 2-4pm Sun Jul & Aug) is in the

Burnavon Arts and Cultural Centre, west of

the main street.

Wellbrook Beetling Mill

Beetling, the final stage of linen making,
involved pounding the cloth with wooden
hammers, or beetles, to give it a smooth
sheen. Restored to working order by the National Trust, 18th-century Wellbrook Beetling
Mill (%8674 8210; 20 Wellbrook Rd, Corkhill; adult/child
3.50/2; h2-6pm daily Easter Week, Jul & Aug, 2-6pm Sat,
Sun & public hols mid-MarJun & Sep) still has its orig-

inal machinery, and stages demonstrations

of the linen-making process led by guides
in period costume. The mill is on a pretty

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

ip) Offering affordable country-house

lonelyplanet.com

692 C O U N T Y T Y R O N E D u n g a n n o n & A r o u n d

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

stretch of the Ballinderry River, 7km west of

Cookstown, just off the A505 Omagh road.

oTullylagan Country House (%8676 5100;

www.tullylagan.com; 40b Tullylagan Rd; s/d 55/75; p)

Ballyronan Marina
Tucked in the northwest corner of Lough
Neagh (see boxed text, p638), 16km northeast of Cookstown, Ballyronan Marina is the
home port of the recently restored Maid of Antrim (%2582 2159; www.maidofantrim.com). Built on
Scotlands River Clyde in 1963, this vintage
boat offers a range of cruises on the lough in
the summer months, including a two-hour
trip to National Trustowned Coney Island in
the south (adult/child 12/8).
A 6th-century monastic site overlooking
Lough Neagh is home to one of Irelands
best-preserved and most elaborately decorated
Celtic stone crosses. The 10th-century Ardboe
high cross stands 5.5m tall, with 22 carved panels depicting biblical scenes. The western side
(facing the road) has New Testament scenes:
(from the bottom up) the Adoration of the
Magi; the Miracle at Cana; the miracle of the
loaves and fishes; Christs entry into Jerusalem; the arrest (or mocking) of Christ; and, at
the intersection of the cross, the Crucifixion.
The more weathered eastern face (towards
the lough) shows Old Testament scenes:
Adam and Eve; the Sacrifice of Isaac; Daniel in the Lions Den; the Three Hebrews in
the Fiery Furnace. The panels above may
show the Last Judgement, and/or Christ in
Glory. There are further scenes on the narrow north and south faces of the shaft.
Ardboe is 16km east of Cookstown. Take
the B73 through Coagh and ignore the first
(white) road sign for Ardboe. Keep straight
on until you find the brown sign (on the
right) for Ardboe High Cross.

Sleeping & Eating

Drum Manor Forest Park (%8676 2774; Drum Rd, Oaklands; camp & caravan sites 9.50-11; hEaster-Sep) This
is a pleasant site 4km west of Cookstown on
the A505, with lakes, forest trails, a butterfly
farm and an arboretum.
Avondale B&B (%8676 4013; www.avondalebb.co.uk;
31 Killycolp Rd; r per person 25; p) Set in a spacious
Edwardian house with a large garden, patio
and sun lounge, Avondale offers B&B in two
en-suite family rooms (one double and one
single bed in each). Its 3km south of Cookstown, just off the A29 Dungannon road.

C O U N T Y T Y R O N E D u n g a n n o n & A r o u n d 693

Linen Green

quiet, wooded location complete with its own

trout-fishing lake, 2.5km south of Dungannon
on the A29 towards Moy and Armagh.
Grange Lodge (%8778 4212; www.grangelodge

Set amid beautiful riverside gardens 4km

south of Cookstown (just off the A29), the
ivy-clad Tullylagan goes for the Victorian
country manor feel, with shabby-chic sofas,
gilt-framed mirrors on deep red walls, and
marble-effect bathrooms with period taps.
The restaurant (mains 10-15, hnoon-3pm & 6.309pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 4-9pm Sun) specialises
in fresh seafood and steaks.

Housed in the former Moygashel Linen Mills,

the Linen Green (%8775 3761; www.thelinengreen.com;
Moygashel; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) complex includes
a range of designer shops and factory outlets,
plus a visitor centre with an exhibition covering the history of the local linen industry. Its
a good place to shop for bargain mens and
womens fashion, shoes, accessories and linen
goods or to stop for lunch at the Deli on the
Green (see right).

Getting There & Away

Donaghmore High Cross

The bus station is on Molesworth St, east

of the main street. Bus 210 connects Cookstown with Belfasts Europa BusCentre (7,
1 hours, four daily Monday to Saturday,
two Sunday). Bus 80 shuttles between Cookstown and Dungannon (3, 45 minutes, hourly
Monday to Friday, eight Saturday).

DUNGANNON & AROUND

Dungannon is a pleasant enough market town
halfway between Cookstown and Armagh,
worth a brief stop in passing if you want to
do a spot of shopping.
Killymaddy Tourist Information Centre (%8776
7259; www.flavouroftyrone.com; 190 Ballygawley Rd; h9am5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) is at a caravan site

10km west of Dungannon on the A4 road

towards Enniskillen.

Tyrone Crystal
Irelands first crystal factory was established
in Dungannon in 1771 by Benjamin Edwards
from Bristol. It closed down in 1870, but in
1968 Tyrones crystal industry was revived
by a local priest, Father Austin Eustace, who
raised funding to establish a new factory to
help relieve local unemployment.
Today, Tyrone Crystal (%8772 5335; www.tyrone
crystal.com; Coalisland Rd, Killybrackey; tours adult/child 5/
free; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) continues to produce

high-quality lead crystal. The factory offers

guided tours of the manufacturing process,
from the furnace where molten glass is prepared, through hand-blowing and moulding,
to cutting and polishing. Admission to the
showroom is free, and the tour price is reimbursed if you buy something.
The factory is 2.5km northeast of Dungannon on the A45 towards Coalisland its
clearly signposted. Bus 80 to Cookstown
stops nearby.

The village of Donaghmore, 8km northwest of

Dungannon on the B43 road to Pomeroy, is
famed for its 10th-century Celtic high cross.
It was cobbled together from two different
crosses in the 18th century (note the obvious
join halfway up the shaft) and now stands outside the churchyard. The carved biblical scenes
are similar to those on the Ardboe cross (see
opposite). The nearby heritage centre (%8776
7039; Pomeroy Rd; admission free; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) is
based in a converted 19th-century school.

Grant Ancestral Homestead

Ulysses Simpson Grant (1822-85) led Union
forces to victory in the American Civil War
and later served as the USAs 18th president
for two terms from 1869 to 1877. His maternal
grandfather, John Simpson, emigrated from
County Tyrone to Pennsylvania in 1760, but
the farm he left behind at Dergenah has now
been restored in the style of a typical Ulster
smallholding, as it would have been during
the time of Grants presidency.
The furnishings in the Grant Ancestral Homestead (Dergina, Ballygawley; admission free; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat) are not authentic, but the original
field plan of the farm survives together with
various old farming implements. Theres also
an exhibition on the American Civil War, a
picnic area and childrens playground. Check
opening times by calling the Killymaddy tourist information centre (opposite).
The site is 20km west of Dungannon, south
of the A4; look out for the signpost 5.5km west
of Killymaddy tourist information centre.

Sleeping & Eating

Dungannon Park (%8772 7327; dpreception@dungannon
.gov.uk; Moy Rd; camp/caravan sites 8/12; hMar-Oct) This
small (20 pitches) council-run camp site is in a

countryhouse.com; 7 Grange Rd; s/d from 55/79, 4-course

dinner 28; p) The five-room Grange is a period

gem set in its own 20-acre grounds. Parts of

the house, which is packed with antiques, date
from 1698, though most is Georgian with
Victorian additions. The landlady is an awardwinning cook, and the Grange runs cookery
courses. Dinner is available as long as you
book at least 24 hours in advance. Its 5km
southeast of Dungannon, signposted off the
A29 Moy road.
oDeli on the Green (%8775 1775; 2 Linen
Green, Moygashel; mains 5-7; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Take
a break from browsing the designer goodies
in the Linen Green shops to relax over lunch
in this stylish little bistro. As well as the sandwiches and salads on offer at the deli counter,
there are succulent home-made steakburgers,
seared salmon fillet with champ, Thai chicken
curry and pasta with roast pepper, tomato,
rocket and goats cheese sauce.
Viscounts Restaurant (%8775 3800; 10 Northland
Row, Dungannon; mains 9-15; hnoon-9.30pm Mon-Fri,
12.30-9.30pm Sat & Sun) Set in a converted church,

child-friendly Viscounts offers carvery

lunches, snacks and la carte dinners. You
can feast on steaks, pasta, stir-fries and vegetarian dishes in a mock medieval setting of
knights armour, swords and jousting banners. Booking is advisable at weekends.

Getting There & Away

Dungannons bus station is just southwest of
the town centre; turn right, cross the bridge
and follow Scotch St to reach the main square.
Bus 261 runs from Belfasts Europa BusCentre
to Dungannon (7, one hour, hourly Monday
to Saturday, two on Sundays) and continues to
Enniskillen (7, 1 hours). Bus 273 travels from
Belfast to Derry via Dungannon and Omagh
(hourly Monday to Saturday, six on Sundays).
Bus 80 shuttles between Cookstown and
Dungannon (3, 45 minutes, hourly Monday to Friday, eight on Saturdays). Bus 278
runs from Coleraine to Dungannon (7, 1
hours, two a day Monday to Friday, one daily
on Saturdays and Sundays) and continues
to Armagh (4, 30 minutes), Monaghan and
Dublin.

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

Ardboe High Cross

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com

COUNTIES FERMANAGH
& TYRONE

Lonely Planet Publications

694

www.lonelyplanet.com

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.