HYDRAULIC AND COASTAL STRUCTURES IN INTERNATIONAL PERSPECTIVE

Krystian W. Pilarczyk1
Abstract: The objective of this paper is to bring some international perspectives
on the policy, design, construction, and monitoring aspects of Hydraulic and
Coastal Structures in general, and whenever possible, to present some comparison
(or reasons for differences) between the experiences of various countries and/or
geographical regions. This chapter reviews the trends of our hydraulic/coastal
engineering profession and presents an overview of the miscellaneous aspects,
which should be a part of the entire design process for civil engineering structures.
This overview ranges from initial problem identification boundary condition
definition and functional analysis, to design concept generation, selection,
detailing and costing and includes an examination of the construction and
maintenance considerations and quality assurance/quality control aspects. It also
indicates the principles and methods, which support the design procedure making
reference as appropriate to other parts of the chapter. It must be recognized that
the design process is a complex iterative process and may be described in more
than one way. Some speculation on the possible future needs and/or trends in
hydraulic and coastal structures in the larger international perspective is also
presented briefly.
INTRODUCTION

To place hydraulic and coastal structures in international perspective of users one

has at first to define what we understand by this term. In general, each man-made
structure in contact with marine environment can be treated as a coastal structure, and
when in contact with fresh water (river, reservoir, estuary) as a inland or hydraulic
structure. Applying this definition, some traditional/standard civil structures (e.g. a
sheet pile, a bulkhead, a concrete wall, etc) will become coastal structures when placed
in contact with marine environment, or hydraulic structure when placed in contact with
fresh water. Sometimes, the term hydraulic structure(s) is used as an umbrella covering
both, inland and coastal structures.
1

Manager R&D, RWS/Dutch Public Works Dpt., Road and Hydraulic Engineering Institute, P.O. Box
5044, 2600 GA Delft, The Netherlands; k.w.pilarczyk@dww.rws.minvenw.nl; k.pilarczyk@planet.nl

1
Pilarczyk

Usually, by coastal structures we imply a number of typical structures such as

breakwaters, jetties, groins, seawalls, sea dikes, sea revetments, etc. Usually the heavy
hydraulic loading associated with the marine environment distinguishes these structures
from more conventional land and inland applications (hydraulic structures). Therefore,
when discussing coastal structures the same items are also valid for hydraulic structures.
The discussion, however, cannot remain limited to the technical subjects only. Most
engineering structures have a large impact on the environment, and Society forces the
engineering world to mitigate the negative effects of works (if any) on the environment.
When discussing the subject of coastal structures, it is useful to indicate briefly the
type of structures and their terminology, and where coastal structures play a role in the
marine technology (see Figure 1).

Fig. 1a. Classification of coastal structures (SPM, 1984)

2
Pilarczyk

As mentioned above, there are many ways of classification and presentation of

coastal structures. For a quick orientation in the scope of functional selection, the
classification proposed by Van der Weide (1989) can be applied (Figure 1b). Rock
structures can be classified using the ratio between the hydraulic load (e.g., wave height,
Hs) and the strength (e.g., D, where = relative mass density of material and D =
representative size, i.e., stone diameter); Hs/D. This classification is shown in Figure
1c.

Fig. 1b. Classification of coastal structures according to Van der Weide (1989)
Whenever possible, geographical differentiation and international comparison
(various safety standards, use of local materials, equipment and labour, etc.) will be
taken into account when discussing this topic. In general it is worth noting that each
region/country has its own problems and its own solutions related to technical and
economic ability of the country.

3
Pilarczyk

Fig. 1c. Classification of rock structures using Hs/D-parameter (Van der Meer,
1988)

4
Pilarczyk

PROBLEM IDENTIFICATION AND DESIGN PROCESS

In general, a coastal (or hydraulic) structure is planned as a practical measure to

solve an identified problem. Examples are seawalls and dikes, planned to reduce the
occurrence of inundation due to storm surges and/or flooding, or a shore or bank
protection structures to reduce erosion.
Coasts and banks appear in many landforms, yet all coasts and banks have one
element in common: they form the transition between land and water. With the water
being a dynamic element, it is clear that coasts or banks also act dynamically. The
design of erosion control structures is one of the most challenging activity for an
engineer because of multifunctional character and multidisciplinary interactions and
responses namely, interaction between complex hydraulic loading, morphology,
foundation (geotechnical aspects) and structural elements (stability) (Przedwojski et al.,
1995). It should be stressed that the integrated, multifunctional and multidisciplinary
approach to planning and design of hydraulic or coastal structures is still not yet a
common approach. Even in the education process of engineers this approach is not
always followed.
As indicated earlier, hydraulic and coastal structures are one of the means to solve a
water management or a coastal problem. Coastal erosion is one of the most frequent
coastal problems. Erosion of the part of the coast, which is often considered to be the
most valuable part, viz., beach and dunes (or mainland), is an example of such a
problem. To understand the problem and to find a proper control measure one must
understand the hydraulic and morphological processes involved. Morphological
processes cover those physical processes, which eventually result in the modification of
the shape of a coast. The hydraulic and morphological processes in the coastal zone are
governed by two primary phenomena, namely wind and tide. The winds are directly
responsible for the generation of waves, currents and water-level fluctuations and as a
result, for the transport of sand onshore and on the dry beach, while the tides express
themselves in a periodic rising and falling of the water and in tidal currents. Strong
winds result in extreme storm-surges and high waves, which are the dominant factor for
structural stability of structures, flood protection, etc. They belong to short duration
phenomena although the duration can be even in order of days.
Coastal erosion can be due to two fundamentally different processes (RIKZ, 2002):
(i) erosion during a severe storm surge, and/or (ii) structural erosion. Process (i) can be
considered as a typical (often heavily, but temporary) redistribution phenomenon. Sand
from the dunes and upper part of the beach is transported during the storm surge to
deeper water and settles there. Under ordinary conditions, the sand will usually return
partly to its pre-storm position. Assuming that there is no gradient in longshore
transport, the total volume of sand between some limits of a dynamic cross-shore profile
practically does not change due to the storm surge. Process (ii), structural erosion, is
quite different from erosion due to a storm surge. This erosion is in most cases due to
morphological gradients (mainly, gradients in longshore currents) along the coast. The
volume of sand within a cross-shore profile reduces gradually with time. Without
additional measures, the upper part of the profile (i.e. dune area) may also be lost

5
Pilarczyk

permanently. Changing the gradient in longshore current provides a way to reduce the
erosion. When an erosion control scheme to a structural erosion problem is designed,
one always needs to take into account the consequences of the selected alternative for
the erosion process during storm surges.
The methods of interference differ from each other in a way they interfere with the
coast. Where the hard methods aim at reducing the sediment transport along the coast or
to try to contain the sand on the beach or in the dunes, beach nourishment merely supply
sand which consequently will be eroded again. The latter implies that in most cases
beach nourishments will have to be repeated regularly in order to protect an eroding
coastline in the long term. When these beach nourishments can be reduced, for instance
by applying offshore breakwaters, the investment of constructing the offshore
breakwaters may be paid back by the (long term) reduction of the beach nourishments
(CUR, 1997). All these factors must already be included in the design of project
scheme.
There is still much misunderstanding on the use of dikes and seawalls and their
possible disadvantages related to the disturbance of the natural coastal processes and
even acceleration of beach erosion. However, it should be said that in many cases when
the upland becomes endangered by inundation (as in The Netherlands, Bangladesh,
Vietnam, and other countries) or by high-rate erosion (possible increase of sea-level
rise) leading to high economical or ecological losses, whether one likes it or not, the
dike or seawall can even be a 'must' for survival. The proper coastal strategy to be
followed should always be based on the total balance of the possible effects of the
counter measures for the coast considered, including the economical effects or
possibilities. It is an 'engineering-art' to minimise the negative effects of the solution
chosen (Kraus and Pilkey, 1988).
In general, designer has always to remember that an effective application of (hard)
measures to stop or reduce the gradual erosion in the area under consideration always
will result in a reduced input of sediments to the lee-side area. Often this reduced input
leads to (increased) erosion in the lee-side area compared to the previous situation.
Whether this is acceptable or not depends on the particular case. The lee-side
consequences should always be taken properly into account in studying solutions for
erosion problems (Pilarczyk, 1990, Pilarczyk and Zeidler, 1995). In conclusion, before
making a final choice of a specific measure, the effectiveness and consequences of
applying such a measure should be investigated with all available means. Some of these
means (models) can give probably only a qualitative answer (show tendencies), but still
can be a very useful tool in helping to take a right decision.
Substantial developments have taken place in hydraulic and coastal engineering
design over recent years. These have been due principally to an improved scientific
understanding of the river and coastal environment and to the development of better
analytical and predictive techniques particularly through mathematical modelling.
Although a number of calculation methods have been developed and are applied, the
mathematical description of the hydro-morphological processes and the consequent

6
Pilarczyk

quantitative assessment of the influence of structures on the behaviour of the coastline

still are in a first stage. Further developing the description of these processes and
incorporating them in computer programs will be required in order to have the tools
available to design coastal structures and predict their impact more reliably. A number
of promising attempts in this direction are already done in various research centres in
Europe, USA and Japan (Van Gent, 1995, Hanson et al., 1996, Larson et al., 1997, Hsu
et al., 1999). The closer international co-operation in this field is needed to accelerate
these developments, including a proper validation using different geographical site data.
However, from the viewpoint of coastal structures design (groins, offshore breakwaters,
sea walls, etc.), considerable further developments will still be necessary before the
design can be carried out on a fully analytical basis. Experience and engineering
judgement still therefore form major elements of good design practice for hydraulic and
coastal structures.
Despite of these new developments, a large number of new designs all over the
world have not always been successful and the money spent on existing systems has not
always yielded the anticipated benefits. As an example, inventory of functioning of
groins applied along Dutch coast has indicated that about 50% of them do not fulfil the
functional requirements, and sometimes even have an adverse effect. However, due to
the relatively high investment involved, the designers and local authorities (to avoid to
be blamed for a wrong choice) often defend a certain choice of insufficient or even nonfunctioning structures. But this wrong choice reflects often only a real state of our
knowledge and not an inadequacy of a designer. There is an obvious need for guidelines
on the use and effectiveness of coastal structure systems to assist engineers working in
coastal engineering planning and management and to give them a basic understanding
of design practice.
At the problem identification stage (see example in Figure 2), the presence of an
existing or future problem is acknowledged and defined. The acknowledgement of an
existing or future problem is generally accompanied by a determination to find an
appropriate solution to that problem. In the context of this book, this solution will
probably consist of a coastal or shoreline structure, bed protection, or any kind of
maritime works. Future problems may be foreseeable as a result of predictable changes
or may be generated by proposed engineering works. A simple example of the latter
would be the need of protecting the down drift part of a planned shoreline protection
(flank protection). Where several options exist, the preferred solution should always be
determined as a result of cost/benefit analysis and consideration of environmental
impact.
Starting with identification of the problem (e.g. inundation or shoreline erosion), a
number of stages can be distinguished in the design process for (and life cycle of) a
structure, the subsequent stages of which are determined by a series of decisions and
actions cumulating in the creation of a structure (or structures) to resolve the problem.
Post-design stages (to be considered during design!) are the construction and
maintenance (monitoring and repair) of the structure and, finally, its removal or
replacement. An overall formulation in flow chart form is given in Figure 3.

7
Pilarczyk

From the design process/life cycle of a structure, one must be aware that the design
of a structure may easily develop into a multidisciplinary process, including social
conditions, economics, environmental impact, safety requirements, etc.

Fig. 2. Identification of coastal problem

8
Pilarczyk

Fig. 3. Main stages in design process (Pilarczyk, 1990)

In conjunction with identification of the problem, all of the boundary conditions,
which influence the problem and its potential solutions, must also be identified. These
boundary conditions are of various types and include aspects of the following:
- planning policy (including environmental impact aspects);
- physical site conditions;
- construction and maintenance considerations.
Planning policy aspects involve political, legislative and social conditions and include a
definition of acceptable risk of failure/damage/loss of life and acceptable/desirable
environmental impacts. Therefore, the functional design of hydraulic and/or coastal
structures, which aims to combine all these functions and requirements, can be often a
very heavy task for the designer.
FUTURE NEEDS IN POLICES AND DESIGN PHILOSOPHIES

Design and construction of hydraulic and/or coastal structures were for many
centuries (actually, up to mid- 20th century) based mainly on the system of trial and
error, with little scientific backgrounds. However, there has been an increasing need in
recent years for reliable information on design methodology and stability criteria of
revetments exposed to wave and current action. This need arises partly from an increase in
the number and size of applications which have to be realised accordingly to the higher
safety standards, and partly from constructing structures at specific locations where they
are exposed to more severe wave and current attack (artificial islands, offshore
breakwaters, river and sea dikes, waterways and entrance channels with increased intensity
and loading due to navigation, etc.).
In the past we have seen only too often, that local experience determined the
selection of type and dimensions of the protection system. A satisfying structure of the

9
Pilarczyk

neighbours was copied, although hydraulic loads and subsoil properties were different.
This led to designs, which were unnecessarily conservative and consequently too costly,
or were inadequate and thus leading to high maintenance costs. Actually, the technical
feasibility and the dimensions of protective structures can easily be determined on a
sounder basis and supported by better experience than in the past. Often, the solution
being considered should still be tested in a scale model since no generally accepted
design rules exist for all possible solutions and circumstances.
Applied design methods, usually site- and material-specific, require often different
design parameters, and vary considerably in reliability. As a result, engineers experience
particular difficulties when comparing alternative options for new structures and are
very restricted in calculations of failure risk and residual life. Bringing more worldwide
uniformity in design approaches is a very important factor for overall improvement of
reliability of coastal structures. However, proper functioning of hydraulic and coastal
structures as an instrument in solving water management and coastal problems is even
more important aspect. Both of these components include risks. Managing these risks,
equally when there is a strong man-made (e.g. structure) or nature-made component
(e.g. flood protection), basically means assessing alternative options under uncertainty.
The possibility of multiple fatalities is one of the factors that can vary between options.
There is a number of publications which help to increase the awareness of societal risk,
and show how to aggregate risks from major hazards, disseminate available knowledge
of existing approaches, and exchange information of applications from various domains
(e.g., TAW, 2000). The basic components of this integrated approach are shown in
Figure 4.

Fig. 4. General approach (TAW, 2000)

10
Pilarczyk

This is very important when structures have to function as flood protection,

especially for low-lying areas. The higher, stronger and more reliable the flood defences
are, the lower the chance they will collapse. Reducing the possibility of consequent
damage is the essential benefit of the level of safety inherent in the flood defences. To
provide these benefits strengthening the flood defences demands major investment from
society. This covers not only the money for flood construction and maintenance. In
many cases such construction or improvement of the flood defence means damage to
the countryside, natural life or local culture. The demands that are made on the level of
protection against high waters also have to be based on balancing of social costs against
the benefits of improved flood defences (Jorissen and Stallen, 1998). However, the
balance between costs and benefits can also change as a result of changing social
insights, at last but not at least, the actual occurrence of floods and flood damage, or the
future climate change. To include all these aspects in the design, it is necessary to have
the new design techniques cantered on risk-based approach.
In future practice, the results of (much) improved calculations should give rise to the
discussion whether the local standards have to be increased (that means also further
strengthening of flood defences or other risk reduction measures) in order to comply
with existing standards for Group Risk or that the present situation is to be accepted as
good practice. However, this discussion can only take place based on an extensive
policy analysis. At present, such policy analysis cannot be fully drawn up yet. A lot of
technical and non-technical data has to be collected and models have to be developed,
but there are more than technical problems. This also implies the new requirements
concerning the education of engineers and/or the need to work in multidisciplinary
design teams.
Level of protection

Most design manuals are based on a deterministic design philosophy assuming a

design water level and a design wave height of predicted return period (say 1 in 50 or
100 years), and the structure is designed to resist that event with an acceptable degree of
safety. Probabilistic design methods, applied firstly on a large scale (in coastal
engineering) during design and construction of the Eastern Scheldt Barrier in the
Netherlands in 1980s, are still not yet a common design philosophy in coastal
engineering. However, their use is highly increasing in recent years in western
countries. In probabilistic approach, the reliability of the structure is defined as the
probability that the resistance of the structure exceeds the imposed loads. Extensive
environmental (statistical) data is necessary if realistic answers are to be expected from
a probabilistic analysis, and it is mainly for this reason that the procedures have not
been frequently used in the past. However, the more uncertainty one has on
environmental data and on structure response calculations, the more important it is to
use a probabilistic approach. By using this approach one can estimate the uncertainties
and their influence on the final result.
For the return period of environmental events used in the design of hydraulic and
coastal structures, the actual value or values selected are generally considered both in
relation to the level of protection required and the design life of the structure. Both have

11
Pilarczyk

an important bearing on the subsequent benefit cost study. Where high risk is involved
and/or where scheme has a disproportionately high capital cost (i.e. flood barrier
scheme, dikes protecting low-lying high density housing/population) extreme return
periods of up to 1 in 1000 (or even 1 in 10000) years are chosen to ensure an adequate
factor of safety. In case of projects of national importance (i.e. flood protection
scheme), usually very costly, grant aid is sough from central government (or
international aid agency), in which case agreement is reached early in the design
through consultation with the appropriate authority.
Design life

Existing Codes of Practice or Design Guidelines often provide some information on

the minimum requirements for the design life of hydraulic and coastal structures
(usually as 20 years for temporary or short term measures, 50 to 100 years for shore
protection structures and 100 to 1000 years or more for flood prevention structures).
However, the proper choice of return period should be carefully investigated base on
type and required function of the structure. Also, the probabilistic approach allows to
carryout the calculation with respect to cost optimization, which can be a reasonable
base for the proper choice of the design return period. Whatever the level of protection,
there is always a risk of damage by storms more extreme than the design event. Unless
the structure is maintained in a good state of repair, the risk of damage is increased in
time.
Similarly, the limitations in the serviceable life of some materials used in the
construction (i.e. concrete subject to abrasion, steel subject to corrosion, timber subject
to deterioration, etc.) means that they cannot be expected to last the overall life of the
structure and, repairs and replacement must be allowed for (must be planned for already
in the design stage).
It is unrealistic to expect to design any hydraulic or coastal structure such that it will
be free of maintenance or repair during its lifetime. Nevertheless, the ever-increasing
requirement to minimise maintenance costs in line with some (national) economic
restrictions has a considerable influence on the type of solution ultimately accepted.
Cost optimization often shows that it is beneficial to use heavier rock (often only with a
little increase of cost) than normally used in a rubble structure, to reduce the risk of
damage suffered and so reduce the maintenance requirement (especially in case when
mobilizing of material and equipment can be a problem). Conversely, where access and
maintenance are relatively easy and where the result of failure is less serious, low
capital-cost works are often an economical and acceptable solution.
To continue the functioning of the hydraulic or coastal structures during the
prescribed lifetime, their renovation/rehabilitation will be usually needed. In general, in
designing rehabilitation or upgrading works the engineer is restricted to a much more
greater extent than in new works by the existing conditions. In some cases, complete
demolition and reconstruction of the structure (or its part) can be considered as an
optimum solution. The design of this type of works is primarily conditioned by the
inadequacy of the previous structure to fulfil its original purpose or to meet the

12
Pilarczyk

requirements of a new and more demanding standard or new boundary conditions (i.e.
due to the climate change). In some cases, the wrong functioning of the structure can be
proved (i.e. a loss of beach in front of the sea wall). In such a case, a radically different
type of structural solution may be evolved, which is more compatible with coastal (or
river) processes and the needs of conservation and amenity, (for example, introduction
of a shingle beach, sometimes in combination with a groin system, instead of a sea wall,
as it was often applied in United Kingdom).
Failure modes and partial safety factors (based on Burcharth, 1999 and others)

For the majority of coastal (or hydraulic) structures, however, like breakwaters,
groins and revetments, there seems to be no generally accepted safety or risk levels, and
very few design standards comprise such structures. Prof. Burcharth, a driving force in
Europe for reliability standards for breakwaters, made in 1999 an interesting attempt to
discussion on the safety levels and ways of implementing them in the design procedure
of breakwaters, at least in conceptual design stage. In this stage, we basically are
evaluating alternative designs and it is of course important that we compare designs
with equal functional performance and equal safety.
A (coastal) structure can fail or be damaged in several ways (Figure 5).
Consequently, it is very important that the designer considers all the relevant failure
modes and assures a certain safety level for each of them. The safety of the whole
structure can then be calculated by a fault tree analysis (see Figure 6).

Fig. 5. Potential failure modes for breakwaters (Burcharth, 1994)

It is generally accepted that for each failure mode, implementation of safety in
design should be done by the use of partial safety factors linked to the stochastic
variables in the design equation, rather than by an overall safety factor on the design
equation. An increasing number of national codes (for concrete structures, soil
foundation, etc.) and the Euro Code are based on partial safety factors, because this
allows a more precise consideration for the differences in parameter uncertainties than
an overall safety factor.

13
Pilarczyk

Fig. 6. Example of an event) tree for dikes and correlation between aims and
products
The principle of partial safety factors and fault tree analysis related to flood
defences is explained in (CUR/TAW, 1990), and for coastal structures is explained in
Burcharth (1994, 1999). The formats of partial safety factor systems in existing codes
and standards differ, but have the same shortcoming in that the specified coefficients are
not related to a specific safety level. They are tuned to reflect the historically accepted
safety of conventional designs, and are organized in broad safety classes for which the
actual safety level is unknown. Such format is not suitable for breakwaters and coastal
defence structures for which no generally accepted designs and related safety levels
exist.
On this background, and using probabilistic techniques, a new partial safety factor
system was developed for breakwaters, originally in the scope of PIANC Working
Group 12 on Rubble Mound Breakwaters (PIANC 1992). The new approach was
subsequently used also for vertical wall structures in the PIANC Working Group 28,
and further expanded in the EU-MAST 2 and 3 projects Rubble Mound Breakwaters
and PROVERBS, respectively. The system allows design to any wanted target safety
level (probability of failure) and structure lifetime. This means that structures can be
designed to meet any target safety level, for example, 20% probability of certain
damage within 50 years.
The PIANC partial coefficient system provides the partial coefficients for any safety
level, but no recommendations about safety levels are given, as it is left to the designer

14
Pilarczyk

to decide on this. Decision can and should be made on the basis of cost benefit analysis
(risk analysis). However, because such analysis can be rather complicated and
uncertain, there should be defined in the national or international codes and standards
some design target safety classes for the most common types of coastal structures. This
will certainly accelerate the use of partial safety factors. The safety classes and related
failure probabilities could, for example, be formulated as given in Table 1 (Burcharth,
1999a). The useful background information can be found in (Burcharth, 1994).
Table 1. Example of format for safety classes for permanent breakwater structures
(numbers only illustrative)
Safety classes:
failure implies:
Very low
no risk of human injury and small environmental and economic consequences
Low

no risk of human injury and some environmental and/or economic

consequences

Normal

risk of human injury and significant environmental pollution or high economic or

political consequences

High

risk of human injury and significant environmental pollution or very high

economic or political consequences

Limit states: Ultimate Limit State (ULS) and Serviceability Limit State (SLS)

Limit State
SLS
ULS

Failure probability within 50 years structure lifetime

Safety class
Very low
Low
Normal
0.4
0.2
0.1
0.2
0.1
0.05

High
0.05
0.01

Flood protection and management; comparative study for the North Sea coast

Increasing population and development have left coastal areas more vulnerable to a
variety of hazards, including coastal storms, chronic erosion and potential sea level rise.
Development of coastal areas not only can create increased risk for human life, it also
can create a substantial financial risk for individuals and the involved governmental
agencies Absolute flood prevention will never be possible although its impact upon
human activities can be mitigated in areas of flood hazard. The challenge of flood
prevention therefore is to provide an acceptable degree of protection by physical
infrastructure combined with alternative means of risk reduction against the most severe
floods. A broad range of coastal management functions require good understanding of
flooding in order to determine effective policy and response.
In most countries, the provision of flood defenses is undertaken by public authorities
(national, regional or local). Thus, the funding flood defense infrastructure forms part of
public expenditure and vies with other services and budgets for a share of national and
local revenue both for expenditure on new works and on maintenance of existing
defenses. Public expenditure on flood defense may be judged on economic return at a
national or regional level and is often constrained by political judgments on the raising

15
Pilarczyk

and distribution of public finances. The time-scales for such political judgments are
driven by many factors including public opinion, national and international economic
cycles, etc. It may be argued that the provision of effective flood defense can become a
victim of its own success, with increase pressure to reduce expenditure on flood
defense when the defenses appear to remove the flood hazard and the impacts of the
previous flooding recede in the public and institutional memories. Thus we may
hypothesize a cyclic variation of flood hazard determined by responses to major flood
events (Samuels, 2000). Superimposed upon this cycle will be increases in vulnerability
from economic and social development within (coastal) flood plains and changes in the
climatic forcing and hydrological response.
The problem of flooding is too complex for a complete review. However, there are a
large number of excellent publications where useful information on these problems and
associated techniques can be found (CUR/TAW, 1990, Przedwojski et al., 1995,
Meadowcroft et al., 1995, Vrijling, 1998, Jorissen and Stallen, 1998, Koch, 2000,
Oumeraci, 2001). Also, as an example, the results of comparative studies on coastal
flooding for some countries along the North Sea are presented below.
The countries along the North Sea coast enjoy both the advantages and
disadvantages of this shared neighbour. All countries face the threat of coastal floods to
some extent, although the potential consequences of a flooding disaster vary
significantly. Each country has developed a system of flood protection measures
according to the nature of the threat, potential damages, and its historical, social,
political and cultural background. These measures may range from coastal zone
planning to evacuation in emergency situations. In all cases, however, construction and
maintenance of flood defence structures is the core of these measures.
Recently, the North Sea Coastal Management Group (NSCMG) has agreed to
conduct a joint study on the different approaches to safeguarding against coastal
flooding. The primary goal of research is to improve communication between the
various countries on this subject. The study is limited to coastal defence structures in the
five participating countries, namely: Belgium, the United Kingdom, Germany, Denmark
and the Netherlands (Jorissen et al., 2001).
The safety offered by flood defence structures, generally expressed as return periods
of extreme water levels, seems to vary quite a lot in the different countries. In the
United Kingdom, no safety levels are prescribed. Indicative safety levels range from
less than 200 years to 1,000 years. In The Netherlands, on the other hand, the legally
prescribed safety standards range from 2,000 to 10,000 years. The return period of an
extreme water level however, is only one indication of the actual safety provided by the
flood defence structures. In practice, the applied data, design procedures, criteria and
safety margins determine actual safety. In addition to all this, significant historical,
social, cultural and political differences contribute to the variety of flood protection
policies, especially with regard to the authorities involved and responsibilities. Table 2
compares some specific aspects of flood protection policies in the five countries.

16
Pilarczyk

United Kingdom

The coastline is 350 km long. Twothirds of the country (25,000 km2)

is at risk of coastal flooding. The
flood-prone area comprises densely
populated polders. The capital
value at risk is estimated at 2,000
billion euros (1992).

Legal safety standards

Statutory standards by dike ring

area. Standards are expressed as
return periods of extreme water
levels. Safety standards in the
coastal area range from 2,000 to
10,000 years.

flood-prone
areas

decision criteria

safety levels

17

dikes
dunes and
beaches
centralised (at
the level of
Flemish region)
permissive
legislation
Regionalisation
Act, 1988
absolute
standard
A
minimum
safety level of
at least 1,000
years
is
prescribed
according to the
Dutch methodology.

The coastline is 7,300

km long. A few towns
and some agricultural
areas are at risk of
coastal flooding.

dikes
beaches
some sandy
centralised

permissive legislation
Act of Reinforcement
of Ribe dike, 1976;
Fremskudt Dige, 1977
size of the population
at risk
Safety
levels
are
proposed by the DCA
and approved by the
Ministry. Safety levels
are based on a
cost/benefit analysis.
Safety standards range
from less than 50 to
1,000 years.

Pilarczyk

economic efficiency, indicative

standards
No target risks or flood defence
standard; general aim of reducing
risks to people and the
environment, and requirement to
achieve value for money spent.
Indicative standards range from
less than 200 to 1,000 years.

Belgium
(Flanders)
The coastline is
65 km long and
about 3% of
total area of
Belgium is at
risk of coastal
flooding.

Denmark

Table 2. : Overview of flood protection policies

The coastline is 4500 km long.

2,200 km2 (with 5% of the
population), is at risk of coastal
flooding: some large urban and
agricultural areas, but also very
many small areas. The capital
value at risk is estimated at 250
billion euros (2000)
types of sea Dunes (70%)
sea walls
defence
Dikes
dikes
storm surge barriers
dunes, beaches, some shingle
gates and storm surge barriers
Organisation
/ Centralised policy framework, centralised policy framework,
decision making and engineering, decentralised engineering and
responsibilities
decentralised
operational decision making
management
Legislation
Prescriptive legislation (Flood permissive legislation
Protection Act, 1996)

Netherlands

Safety
levels
expressed
as
a
combination
of
design water level,
design wave run-up
and slope criteria. In
practice
this
standard will exceed
a 100 years.

absolute standard

permissive
legislation
(State Water Act)

11,240 km2 (17,5%

of the area) of land
at risk of coastal
flooding in the
coastal
states
Niedersachsen,
Bremen, Hamburg,
Schleswig-Holstein.
dikes
dunes
combination
dikes and dunes
centralised (at the
level of coastal
states)

Germany

MANUALS AND CODES

Unlike the majority of engineering designs, the design of hydraulic and/or coastal
works is not always regulated or formalised by codes of practice or centralised design
and construction. In some countries (e.g. Japan, China) the design of hydraulic and
coastal structures is based upon a national code of practice, but usually it is based upon
a design manual or standardised design guidelines. Such publications may have
mandatory effect or be simply advisory. Design Codes of Practice are more useful for
less developed countries (or countries with less maritime engineering tradition) where,
due to a certain arrears in technological development, too much freedom can lead to the
unreliable designs. However, such design codes must be prepared by experts (or at least
verified by experts) and periodically upgraded. In general, it should be recommended to
upgrade the codes every five years.
In Europe, most countries are using design guidelines instead of design code. A
formal code of practice (or a strict formalised design manual) are usually considered to
be inappropriate for coastal engineering in view of the somewhat empirical nature of the
present design process, the diversity of factors bearing on the design solution (often site
dependent), and still the major role that engineering judgement and experience plays in
the design process. The term guidelines implies that guidance is given to the engineer
responsible for planning and designing coastal structures in that steps in the
design/planning process are described; and the considerations involved are discussed,
alternative methodologies are set out and their present limitations explained. Usually
these guidelines are officially formalized, but still they include a certain freedom in their
use; designer may deviate from these guidelines when reasonable arguments are
provided or when better (more recent) approved design techniques are used. In this way,
designers can follow the actual worldwide developments.
The Netherlands probably provides the best example of construction and use of
design guidelines. As a low-lying country, dependent on reliable water defence system,
it requires high level of safety and thus, also reliable design and construction
techniques. The responsible departments of the Dutch government, under supervision of
the Technical Advisory Committee for Water Defences (TAW), have supported the
production of a number of overall guidelines and Technical Reports giving guidelines
on a general strategies and design philosophies, and on specific technical subjects.
These guidelines cover not only the general design philosophy and methodology, but
also technical details on failure modes and calculation methods (often developed in own
research programs when not available, or not reliable enough on the market). These
guidelines were often used as a reference by other countries (especially, countries
around the North Sea) for establishment of their own guidelines. The usual period of
upgrading these guidelines is about 5 years. There are national standards in the
Netherlands on specification of materials (rock, concrete, timber, steel, geotextile, etc.,
which are gradually replaced by European Standards (EuroCodes).
In Germany, the Committee for Waterfront Structures has produced the design
recommendations (EAU 1996, 2000). These are not mandatory regulations, and so can
be simply up-dated annually if required. However, Germany is known as a country with
a long standardisation tradition in civil engineering applications (German DINs); it
concerns specifications and design methods in a wide range of various materials
(concrete, steel, timber, geosynthetics, earthworks, etc.). Also, structural safety is

18
Pilarczyk

treated by one of these codes. Most of these codes will be actually replaced by Euro
codes. When designing coastal structures or their components, reference is usually made
to these DIN standards.
In the UK there is little centralised design or construction of coastal structures. In
1984, the British Standards Institution (BSI) issued a Code of Practice for maritime
structures. This Code of Practice is not, however, intended to be of direct use in the
design of coastal structures. While it considers some subject areas in detail, some other
aspects of importance in the design of coastal structures receive very little attention
and/or need updating. More information on organisational aspects (policy
responsibility) and standards and technical guidelines in UK can be found in (Fowler
and Allsop, 1999).
In Spain, design of coastal structures is regulated by a recent document:
Recommendations for maritime structures, ROM 0.2-99. The ROM documents gather
the leading state of the art knowledge, as well as the extensive experience in maritime
engineering in Spain. The objective of the ROM is to define a set of RULES and
Technical Criteria, that must be followed in the project design, operation, maintenance
and dismantle of Maritime Structures, no matter the materials and methods used in each
of the project stages. Concerning the structural safety, the ROM proposes different
levels of reliability analysis, for each of the mutually exclusive and collectively
exhaustive modes of failure, depending on the general and the operational nature of the
maritime structure. Structures with small values of the nature (definition of the
importance of structure and consequences of failure) can be verified with a partial
safety coefficient level, while those with high nature values are enforced to be verified
with the application of a Probabilistic Level II method. An overall procedure is set up in
order to guide the designer to fulfil the recommendations prescribed in the program
ROM. A software program has been written in order to help designers to follow the
ROM. A new revised version of ROM is planned for 2002.
Japan is known as a country working with rather strict design standards. The history
and recent developments on design standards for maritime structures in Japan are
extensively outlined in the three papers at Coastal Structures99 ( Takahashi et al.,
Mizuguchi et al., Yamamoto et al., 1999). Originally, depending on the designation and
usage of a particular region, coasts were managed by four governmental agencies
(construction, transport, fishery, and agriculture), each with its own standards and
regulations. This situation was very confusing for everybody, especially because of
different design approaches and criteria. Recently, the Ministry of Construction and the
Ministry of Transport are combined to the new Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and
Transport (MLIT) which fact clarifies the present coastal management situation in
Japan. Actually, extensive revision of technical standards on coastal facilities is under
way. Already in 1999, it was decided to revise the old Technical Standards for Port and
Harbour Facilities and Design Standard of Fishing Port Facilities (see OCADI,
1999/2002). Following that, the Japanese Committee on Coastal Engineering is actually
preparing Design Manual on Coastal Facilities, which will be a base for a new Japanese
standard (Mizuguchi and Iwata, 1999). Also, the Japanese Coastal Act (dated from
1956), is under revision. The purpose of these revision activities is to harmonise the
different approaches and to reflect progresses in coastal engineering from the recent
years. The neutral body like Japanese Committee on Coastal Engineering is asked to

19
Pilarczyk

guide all these revision activities, and in this way to help to resolve the differences
within the Ministries involved.
In United States, where the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers is responsible for many
coastlines, the most frequently used guide is the Shore Protection Manual (SPM, 1984).
This is not an official formalised national Design Code, but in practice it is treated in
that way, especially within the U.S. Army Corps organization. This guide was a very
modern tool in the 70s and was used worldwide for the design of coastal structures.
The advantage of this guide was its completeness, clear style and calculation examples.
The disadvantage was its conservatism and limited upgrading in new editions;
upgrading was only accepted when the faults become very evident or when much
experience with some new techniques was gained, usually outside the U.S.A. As a
result, the new design techniques developed often in US were at first applied in Europe
or other countries where European consultants were active. Currently, SPM is being
replaced by the new and updated Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM, 2002), which
becomes a very modern guide reflecting latest developments and which, in combination
with recent Manuals on Rock (CUR/CIRIA, 1991, CUR/RWS, 1995) can be
recommended for worldwide use as reference.
It should be mentioned here that during the Coastal Structures99 Conference, a
special session on Guidelines, Standards and Recommendations on Maritime
Structures was held. Speakers invited from different countries around the World
(Denmark, France, Germany, Holland, Italy, Japan, UK, USA and Spain) were invited
to present the state of the art and the level of development of guidelines in their
respective countries. Also, the PIANC Safety Factor System for Breakwaters was
discussed. From the presentations, it seems that a large variety of codes, manuals and
guidelines with different scopes and objectives are now available; moreover, it is
apparent that each country is writing their standards without too much connection with
other countries. However, there are many similarities between these documents.
Concerning the structural safety, most of the standards are using the Method of the
Limit States as a standard method for the verification of the failure modes. Many
countries are still using overall safety factors, while others are developing or using
partial safety factors. In order to facilitate the design of breakwaters to any target safety
level, the PIANC PTC II Working Groups on breakwaters developed a system of partial
safety factors corresponding to any wanted safety level which can be considered as a
practical engineering way of using a probabilistic level II method. The PIANC
method is independent as such of the level of environmental data quality. The partial
safety factors given are related to the data quality (poor or good data sets). More details
on this subject can be found in the Proceedings of this conference (Losada, ed., 1999).
Future design requirements (codes)

Technical developments will always go on resulting in one or other way in further

upgrading of our knowledge and improvement of our design standards. However, each
new period brings some new elements and problems, which should explicitly be taken
into account and planned in more structural way. The type of design that will need to be
undertaken in the 21st century will reflect on one side the type and magnitude of existing
work including their ageing and continuing deterioration, which is seen to be mainly in
the field of upgrading, extension, rehabilitation and maintenance (CIRIA, 1986). On the
other side, the new problems arising due to the long-term changes affecting the coastal
20
Pilarczyk

regimes, such as the structural erosion in front of coastal structures and the trend
towards rising sea levels, steeping of foreshores, land subsidence and continue reduction
of sediment supply from the rivers. Some new flood elevation schemes in low-lying
areas will probably be required due to new safety standards.
The upgrading and extension of existing structures to meet new defence standards
may require the engineer to determine the structural stability of the existing structures in
order to determine whether the increased loading is capable of being accommodated. To
support the engineer in his new task, new techniques for safety assessment and new
criteria for dealing with upgrading of existing structures should be developed. In this
respect, the ability to benefit from lessons learnt from the previous works is of
paramount importance. The Dutch guide on safety assessment of dikes can be seen as an
example of such development (Pilarczyk, 1998, TAW, 1996)
Taking a long-term view, the nature of the requirements will partly depend on the
increasing demands that might be made on the coastline due to the continuing upward
trend in leisure pursuits, or a greater emphasis on conservation (CIRIA, 1986). Such
development may well necessitate a radical change of strategy in coastal defences but it
is impossible to predict the type of changes that may result. However from the
viewpoint of design, it is already recognised that there is a need to consider coastal
engineering strategy over much greater lengths of coastline and over a longer period
than at present. Some examples in this direction can be found in the Netherlands (RWS,
1990, TAW, 2000) and in UK (MAFF, 1997, 2000).
Strategic planning on this scale would be helped, if a comprehensive and detailed
database of all the existing hydraulic and coastal defences all over the world existed.
National authorities and international organisations should initiate some actions for
development of such a database (including the lessons learnt from failures) and
preparing new guidelines. The state-of-the-art review, which follows, should be based
on (international) discussion with design engineers, contractors, research scientists and
administrators to present a balanced presentation of a wide range of views. These
guidelines should set out the state of the art in each subject area and comment on
limitations in actual knowledge.
The introduction of (internationally recognised) guidelines should bring about an
increase of reliability (reduction of risk) and a (possible) reduction in the overall cost to
the nation of works by (CIRIA, 1986):
- helping the designer to identify the most effective design solution;
- improving the overall level of design practice, so as to reduce the number and cost of
over-designed and under-designed works;
- promoting common standards of planning and design, thus improving the
effectiveness and co-ordination of coastline control nationally.
The future guidelines should serve a valuable role in setting out a common
framework for future planning and design, and for helping to identify the most effective
of a number of alternative design approaches with reference to the differences in
geographical conditions and economic developments (abilities). Production of the
guidelines must not reduce the need to carry out further research into the key areas of
design but in opposite, it should stimulate a new research in areas where our knowledge

21
Pilarczyk

is still limited. Moreover, not all situations can be covered by guidelines, which refer
more to standard cases, and there will always be need for additional research (i.e. model
investigation) for special problems and high-risk projects. In order to maintain an
overall coherence, the design guidelines should be reviewed (internationally)
periodically (say, every 5 to max. 10 years) to introduce the advances in the state-of-theart, and incorporate new experience.
DESIGN TECHNIQUES

The design of hydraulic and coastal structures subjected to currents and wave attack
is a complex problem. The design process and methodology are summarised in Figures
7 and 8.
Design methodology

When designing these structures, the following aspects have to be considered:

- the function of the structure
- the physical environment
- the construction method
- operation and maintenance
The main stages, which can be identified during the design process, are shown in Figure
7. The designer should be aware of the possible constructional and maintenance
constrains. Based on the main functional objectives of the structure a set of technical
requirements has to be assessed.

Fig. 7. Design process and integrated approach

22
Pilarczyk

When designing a hydraulic or a coastal structure (dike, seawall), the following

requirements to be met can be formulated:
1.
the structure should offer the required extent of protection against flooding at an
acceptable risk,
2.
events at the dike/seawall should be interpreted with a regional perspective of
the coast,
3.
it must be possible to manage and maintain the structure,
4.
requirements resulting from landscape, recreational and ecological viewpoints
should also be met when possible,
5.
the construction cost should be minimised to an acceptable/responsible level,
6.
legal restrictions.
A very important stage in the design process is that of making alternatives, both, in
case of a conceptual design (making choice of a solution) as well as in a final design
(optimisation of the structural design). These are the moments in the design where the
cost of project/structure can be influenced. Elaboration of these points mentioned above
depends on specific local circumstances as a type of upland (low-land or not) and its
development (economical value), availability of equipment, manpower and materials,
etc. The high dikes/seawalls are needed for protection of lowlands against inundation
while lower seawalls are often sufficient in other cases. The cost of construction and
maintenance is generally a controlling factor in determining the type of structure to be
used. The starting points for the design should be carefully examined in cooperation
with the client or future manager of the project.

Fig. 8. Design methodology and tools

Note: the meaning of design levels I, II, and III in Figure 8 is different from the terminology
related to the design levels using probabilistic approach as discussed in previous Sections (Level
I: overall safety factors, Level II: only mean value and standard deviation for stochastic
parameters, and Level III: actual distribution of stochastic parameters used).

23
Pilarczyk

This design methodology is shown schematically on Figure 8, including also various

simulation models (design tools) required to evaluate the behaviour of the structure in
the various stages of design (Van der Weide, 1989, Pilarczyk, 1990). In general, it can
be stated that in the course of the design-process more advanced methods are used. The
actual choice, however, is dependent on the complexity of the problems, the size of the
project and the risk-level, which is acceptable.
Depending on the objective, simulation can vary from crude approximations and
rules of thumb (usually applicable at level I/conceptual design), through accepted
empirical design formulae with their limitations (usually applicable at level
II/preliminary design), to sophisticated reproductions of reality, using physical models,
analogue techniques or numerical models (usually applicable at level III/final detail
engineering). This kind of methodology should be followed both, in a case of functional
design as well as in case of structural design. Examples of level I tools (rules of thumb)
and level III tools (models) are presented below. Level II tools can be found on the
websites: http://ihe.nl/we/dicea/cress.htm or http://www.cress.nl (CRESS-program).
Level I Tools (Rules of Thumb)

Some examples of rules of thumb (tools for first estimate) are given below.
a) Stability of revetments under wave attack
H s F cos ; (ctg 2)
0.5
p
D

(1)

with p= breaker similarity index on a slope; p = tan ( Hs / L o p )-0.5 = 1.25 T p . Hs-0.5 . tan ,
Hs = significant wave height, = relative mass density of units, D = thickness of cover
layer (= Dn50 for stone), = angle of slope, F = 2 to 2.5 for rock, = 3 for pitched stone,
= 4 to 5 for place blocks, = 5 to 6 for interlocked blocks and cabled block mats.
b) Maximum (depth-limited) wave height
Hs,max = (0.5 to 0.6) h

(2)

where h is the local depth.

More precisely: use Godas graphs (Goda, 1985) or ENDEC: http://www.cress.nl
c) Current attack:

U2
2g
where U is the depth-average velocity and g is the gravity.
Multiply (3/4)D for a uniform flow and (3/2)D for a non-stationary, turbulent flow.
D =

(3)

d) Scour depth (hscour) and length of toe protection (Ltoe prot.)

hscour Hs and Ltoe prot 2 hscour

(4)

where Hs is the local wave height

24
Pilarczyk

e) Minimum length of protection of crest/splash area

Ls> 3Dn50 (>0.5m)

(5)

D50up/D50down < 6 to 10

(6)

f) Granular filter

for uniformly graded materials (for breakwaters 3 to5), or more general:

D15up/D85down 5; material/soil tightness (for breakwaters 3 to 4)
D15up/D15down 5; permeability criterion
D60/D10 < 10; internal stability (= uniform grading)
(up = upper layer, down = lower layer)

Fig. 9. Geometrically closed granular filters

g) Geotextile filter (for uniform gradation of subsoil)
O90geot< 2D90base for low turbulence and Hs<0.5m

(7a)

O90geot D90base for high turbulence and/or dynamic loading, Hs0.5m

(7b)

h) Wave run-up, Ru2% (= 2% run-up exceeded by 2% of waves only)

Ru2%/Hs = 8tan

(for ctg3 and 0.03<Hs/Lp<0.05)

(8)

or more general:
Ru2%/Hs = 1.6 p

for p < 2 to 2.5

Ru2%/Hs = 3.2

for p > 2.5

and

where Hs= significant wave height, = angle of slope and p = breaker index; for
riprap, use 0.6 Ru2%.

25
Pilarczyk

Level III tools (models)

Knowledge of the relevant wave climate is crucial to the design and construction of
coastal structures (do remember: rubbish in rubbish out). Good reliable data measured
over a long period is rarely available; and in many cases limitations of time and/or cost
do not permit such data to be obtained. The alternative is to derivate long-term estimates
of wave climate by hindcasting on the basis of wind data. Special attention still deserves
the prediction of wave climate in areas exposed to hurricanes, typhoons, and tsunamis,
especially for countries, which do not have own (proper equipped) forecasting services.
An essential parameter in the design of hydraulic or coastal structures is the
probability of occurrence of severe events (high water levels, high waves). The design
procedure based on the probabilities of water levels alone plus appropriate wave height
is presently widely applied. However, this procedure does not reflect the full picture, as
it does not allow for the possible correlation between the various parameter causing
extreme events (tide, surge magnitude, wind direction, wave height and period). For an
optimum design the joint probability of all these parameters should be taken into
account. A number of recent manuals and guidelines have included this as a
recommended approach; however, its application needs more detailed statistical data
and correlations, and probabilistic calculation methods. (CUR/TAW, 1990,
CUR/CIRIA, 1992, PIANC, 1992, CEM, 2002). Further developments in this direction
should be stimulated, especially concerning the more user-friendly programs for reworking of statistical data into the required full joint design probability.
The next important design activity is to transfer the offshore wave conditions into
shallow water. Actually, the most frequently used methods are 1-D models as developed
by Goda and by Battjes&Janssen (ENDEC-model). This item is currently the subject of
the further improvement of a number of computer programs of various levels of
sophistication. The most advanced method is at this moment probably the SWANmodel (Simulating Waves Nearshore), which was developed by the Technical
University of Delft in the Netherlands and is a public domain model (Booij et al., 1996).
However, even this model still needs further validation under various conditions.
Shallow foreshores considerably affect wave propagation and hence wave impact and
run-up on coastal structures. This concerns for instance the evolution of wave height
distributions and wave energy spectra between deep water and the toe of coastal
structures
As it was already mentioned, there are a number of models available. As an example,
two numerical models have been applied in recent studies in the Netherlands to model
the wave propagation over the foreshore and one numerical model has been applied to
model wave motion on the structure (Van Gent and Doorn, 2001). The models applied
for wave propagation over the shallow foreshore are a spectral wave model (SWAN;
Ris, 1997 and Ris et al., 1998) and a time-domain Boussinesq-type model (TRITON;
Borsboom et al., 2000, 2001). The model applied for modelling wave motion on the
structure is a time-domain model based on the non-linear shallow-water wave equations
(ODIFLOCS; Van Gent, 1994, 1995). SWAN model simulates propagation of short
waves. It does not model processes where bound low-frequency energy becomes free
due to wave breaking, which is a relevant process for situations with shallow foreshores.
For the modelling of wave breaking (depth-induced wave breaking and white capping),
wave set-up, bottom friction and triad wave-wave interaction the default settings were

26
Pilarczyk

used. The applied Boussinesq-type model is the two-dimensional wave model for wave
propagation in coastal regions and harbours TRITON (WL | Delft Hydraulics), which is
described in Borsboom et al. (2000, 2001). This efficient model simulates wave
propagation and wave breaking in the time-domain, which also allows for simulation of
processes where bound low-frequency energy becomes free due to wave breaking. This
is a relevant process for situations with shallow foreshores. Wave breaking was
implemented based on a new method where wave breaking is modelled as an eddyviscosity model in combination with a surface roller, similar to the method applied by
Kennedy et al. (2000). For the determination of the eddy viscosity use is made of the
concept of surface rollers, as also applied by Schffer et al. (1992). In contrast to many
other existing models for wave breaking, this breaker model in TRITON allows for
modelling of more severe wave breaking, as is the case in the discussed applications.
The general impression from examining the wave energy spectra is that the timedomain model simulates both the spectral shapes and the energy levels rather accurately
for the conditions with significant energy dissipation due to severe wave breaking. Also
the energy shift to the lower frequencies is modelled surprisingly well. The accuracy of
the predictions for the wave periods is higher than obtained with the spectral wave
model, though at the cost of higher computational efforts. The model is considered as
suitable to provide estimates of the relevant parameters for wave run-up and wave
overtopping on dikes with shallow foreshores.
For wave interaction with a dike the model applied here is the time-domain model
ODIFLOCS (Delft University of Technology) which simulates wave motion on coastal
structures (Van Gent, 1994, 1995). Perpendicular wave attack on structures with
frictionless impermeable slopes is simulated by solving the non-linear shallow-water
wave equations. Steep wave fronts are represented by bores. Use is made of an explicit
dissipative finite-difference scheme (Lax-Wendroff), (Hibberd and Peregrine, 1979).
Similar models have been shown to predict well wave reflection and wave run-up on
impermeable rough slopes (Kobayashi et al, 1987).
Based on the investigations described in this paper the following conclusions can be
drawn:
The spectral wave model, applied for wave propagation of short waves over the
foreshore (SWAN), yields valuable insight in the evolution of wave energy spectra over
the foreshore. It also shows that the computed energy levels in the short waves are
rather accurately predicted, considering the rather extreme energy dissipation in the
tests. The wave parameters Hm0 and Tm-1,0 at the toe of the structure are both under
predicted (13% and 21% respectively), using the default settings of this numerical
model. Modifications of the numerical model settings for this kind of applications might
improve the results. Further improvements of this model could be dedicated to decrease
wave energy transfer to higher frequencies and to increase wave energy transfer to
lower frequencies.
The time-domain wave model applied for wave propagation over the foreshore
(TRITON) shows accurate results for the wave parameters Hm0 and Tm-1,0 at each
position. The deviations at the toe of the structure remain below 10% and 5%
respectively (based on the energy in the short waves). The evolution of the wave energy
spectra is rather accurately simulated despite the extreme energy dissipation. Also the

27
Pilarczyk

energy transfer to lower frequencies is clearly present. The model to include wave
breaking in this Boussinesq-type model appears to be effective in reducing the wave
energy without significant loss of accuracy in the simulation of wave energy spectra.
Further validations of this model include 2DH-situations with angular wave attack,
directional spreading and non-uniform depth-contours.
The time-domain wave model applied for the simulation of wave interaction with
the dike (ODIFLOCS) shows that accurate results on wave run-up levels can be
obtained if use is made of measured surface elevations of the incident waves (on
average 10% under predictions of the wave run-up levels). The use of incident waves
based on numerical results from the spectral wave model (SWAN) doubles the mean
differences (18%) because both numerical models lead to too much wave energy
dissipation. The use of incident waves calculated by the time-domain wave model
(TRITON) reduces the differences significantly (on average less than 3%) because the
numerical models lead to counteracting errors. Applying the two models together led to
relatively accurate predictions of the wave run-up levels for the present data set.
Stability of cover layers; some examples

The sudden intensification of research on rubble mound breakwaters in the 80s was
triggered by several damage to a series of relatively new breakwaters (Sines in Portugal,
Arzew in Algeria and Tripoli in Libya). Also a substantial number of damage cases in
Japan led to review of existing design formulae and the development of the famous
Godas formula for vertical breakwaters (Goda, 1985). It was evident that there were
fundamental problems with our methods of designing rubble mound breakwaters.
The failure of Sines, Arzew and Tripoli breakwaters are described in Burcharth (1987).
The main causes of the failures were:
1) The relative decrease in armour unit strength with increasing size was not
considered and/or taken into account. This was crucial for slender, complex
types of armour units (Burcharth, 1980, 1987).
2) The second reason for the major failures of rubble mound breakwaters was
underestimation of the wave climate.
3) The third reason was bad model testing with incorrect modelling of the structure
and the seabed topography.
A lot of research on the strength of slender armour units followed these failures
resulting in strength-design formulae for Dolosse and Tetrapods by which one can
estimate the tensile stresses as function of incident waves, size of the units and for
(Dolosse) the waist ratio. The tensile strength can then be compared to the concrete
tensile strength in order to estimate if breakage takes place or not. The formulae also
provide the relative number of broken units given the wave climate, the size and the
tensile strength of the concrete (Burcharth et al., 2000). The failures involving broken
slender concrete units resulted in two trends:
a. return to bulky units like cubes, and
b. development in stronger complex (multileg) units, still with hydraulic stability
higher than, for example, cubes. The Accropode is a result of this development.
These failures also stimulated research into concrete material strength problems
related to armour units. For example, Burcharth (1984) studied fatigue for slender units.
A thermal stress caused by temperature differences in the concrete during curing is a

28
Pilarczyk

problem related to large bulky units. Burcharth (1983, 1991, 1992) studied this problem
theoretically and by full-scale experiments for Sines, and formulated some guidelines to
avoid the problem. The introduction of a hole in Antifer cubes was a result of this work.
The solution was necessary for casting large cubes in the very hot climate of Somalia
(Burcharth, 1991).
All the older design were mostly based on (simplified) formula of Hudson dated
from 50s, which gained its popularity due to its simplicity and the status of US Army
Corps. However, the problems with using this formula started in 70s with introduction
of random waves and the necessity of transformation of regular waves into irregular
waves. In 80s, the number of testing facilities and test results with random waves
became so large that the necessity of new design formulas became evident.
Note: the Hudson formula is still preferred in some countries, e.g. USA, for shallow
water conditions.
The new research in 80s provided more understanding of failure mechanisms and
new more sophisticated formulae on stability and rocking of rubble mound structures
and artificial armour units.
Formulae developed by Van der Meer (1988) by fitting to model test data, with
some later modifications, became standard design formulations. However, the reason of
this development was quite different than above mentioned. To explain this we have
turn back to 70th when the author was involved in Delta project, the largest project of
damming tidal gaps in the Netherlands, following the necessary actions after flood
disaster in 1953. The author has discovered at that time that there was little known on
stability of cover layers under wave attack, and that the existing formulations (Hudson,
Irribaren, Hedar) were not perfect. He was strengthened in his suspicion by research of
John Ahrens, a brilliant researcher from US Corps of Engineers, who was probably too
far ahead in time for a general acceptance. Even in his home organisation he never
gained the recognition, as he deserved; his work was never mention in US Shore
Protection Manual. Ahrens (1975) performed extensive tests on riprap stability and the
influence of the wave period; the test were conducted in the CERC large wave tank
(with regular waves). Pilarczyk (1983, 1984) continued to replot Ahrenss data and
obtained surprising similarity with the later design graph by Van der Meer (1988). This
work by Ahrens and his later research on dynamic stability of reefs and revetments,
together with work by van Hijum on gravel beaches (Van Hijum and Pilarczyk, 1982),
were the reason for the author to prepare a proposals for a systematic research on static
and dynamic stability of granular materials (rock and gravel) under wave attack. This
program, commissioned early 80s to the Delft Hydraulics, was successfully realized
under direct guidance by Van der Meer in 1988.
The basic structure of the Van der Meer formula is such that the stability number
H/D is expressed in terms of natural or structural boundary conditions, for example
(the sample formula is valid for rock under plunging waves):

S
Hs
= 6.2 P 0.18

Dn50
N

0.2

1
m

(9)

29
Pilarczyk

in which: Hs = significant wave height, = relative mass density, Dn50 = nominal stone
diameter, P = permeability coefficient representing composition of the structure, S =
damage level, and m = surf similarity parameter (Iribarren number).
The work of Van der Meer is now generally applied by designers and it has
considerably reduced (but not eliminated) the need to perform model experiments
during design process. We have always to remember that each formula represents only a
certain schematisation of reality. Moreover, as far as these formulas are based on
experiments and not based on fully physical understanding and mathematical
formulations of processes involved, each geometrical change in the design may lead to
deviation in the design results, and to the need of performance of model investigation.
Another advantage of the Van der Meer formulae over the formula of Hudson is the fact
that the statistical reliability of the expression is given, which enables the designer to
make a probabilistic analysis of the behaviour of the design (dAngremond, 2001).
Note: the statistical uncertainty analysis for almost all formulae (including Hudson) is
given by Burcharth in CEM (2002).
Following the same philosophy, Van der Meer and others have modified and
extended the formulae for the stability of rock to many other aspects of breakwater
design such as stability of some artificial units, toe stability, overtopping and wave
transmission. However, these latest formulae (overtopping and transmission) are still in
very rudimentary stage and need further improvement and extension. It concerns
especially such structures as submerged reefs with a wide crest where all design aspects
(stability, transmission, and functional layout) are not understood properly yet. Some
experience with these structures is obtained in Japan, however, the generally valid
design criteria are still absent.
What has been said for slopes under wave attack is largely valid for slopes and
horizontal bottom protection under currents. The designer has a number of black box
design tools available, but the understanding of the contents of the black box is far from
complete. Specifically when these black box design formulae are used in expert
systems, one may in the end be confronted with serious mistakes. If an experienced
designer still realises the shortcomings and limitations of the black box formula, the
inexperienced user of the expert system can easily overlook the implication of it.
Although a reliable set of design formulae is available, the main challenge in the
field of rubble mound structures is to establish a conceptual model that clarifies the
physical background of it. This will require careful experimental work, measuring the
hydrodynamic conditions in the vicinity of the slope and inside the breakwater.
Burcharth et al. (1999c) studied the internal flow process in physical models at different
scales and in prototype and developed a method for scaling of core material, thus
minimizing scale effects on stability. Possibly, an intermediate step has to be taken by
developing a 2-D mathematical model (often called numerical flume) that describes
the pressures and flow field with sufficient accuracy, examples of such development can
be found in (Van Gent, 1995, Troch, 2001, Itoh et al., 2001). Experimental work will
also remain necessary to assess the influence of turbulence. A second challenge is a
further exploring of the opportunity to use single instead of double armour layers and
further modification of filter rules. This will lead to considerable savings.

30
Pilarczyk

The first results of these new developments are promising, but it will take quite
some time before this research leads to engineering tools. Another development (and
also challenge for future) is the multifunctional design of breakwaters (and may be other
structures), for example, a combination of protective function with energy production
(wave or tide power), aquaculture, public space for (restaurants, underwater
aquarium/parks), etc. Many activities in this direction are already undertaken in Japan.
More information on new developments in design techniques and alternative design of
maritime structures, and the future needs for research, can be found in ASCE (1995),
PHRI (2001), and CEM (2002).
It should be stressed that the proposed developments for breakwaters were partly
stimulated/initiated by early developments in understanding and quantification of
physical processes in block revetments (De Groot et al., 1988, Burger et al., 1990,
Pilarczyk et al., 1995, Kohler and Bezuijen, 1995, CUR 1995, Bezuijen and Klein
Breteler, 1996, Klein Breteler et al, 1998, Pilarczyk, 1998, 2000).
Wave attack on revetments will lead to a complex flow over and through the revetment
structure (filter and cover layer), which are quantified in analytical and numerical models
(CUR, 1995, ASCE, 1995). The stability of revetments with a granular and/or geotextile
filter (pitched stones/blocks, block mats and concrete mattresses) is highly influenced
by the permeability of the entire revetment system. The high uplift pressures, induced
by wave action, can only be relieved through the joints or filter points in the revetment
(Figure 10). The permeability of the revetment system is a decisive factor determining
its stability, especially under wave attack, and also it has an important influence on the
stability of the subsoil. The permeability of a layer of closely placed concrete blocks on
a filter layer with and without a geotextile has been investigated in recent years in the
Netherlands in the scope of the research programme on stability of revetments

Fig. 10. Physical processes in revetment structure

31
Pilarczyk

The usual requirement that the permeability of the cover layer should be larger than
that of the under layers cannot usually be met in the case of a closed block revetment
and other systems with low permeable cover layer (i.e. concrete geomattresses). The
low permeable cover layer introduces uplift pressures during wave attack. In this case
the permeability ratio of the cover layer and the filter, represented in the leakage length,
is found to be the most important structural parameter, determining the uplift pressure.
The schematised situation can be quantified on the basis of the Laplace equation for linear
flow (Figure 10). In the analytical model nearly all-physical parameters that are relevant
to the stability have been incorporated in the "leakage length" factor. For systems on a
filter layer, the leakage length is given as:
=

bDk
k'

(10)

where: = leakage length (m), D = thickness of the revetment cover layer (m), b =
thickness of the filter layer (m), k = permeability of the filter layer or subsoil (m/s), and k
= permeability of the top (cover) layer (m/s).
The pressure head difference, which develops on the cover layer, is larger with a large
leakage length than with a small leakage length. This is mainly due to the relationship k/k'
in the leakage length formula. The effect of the leakage length on the dimensions of the
critical wave for semi-permeable revetments is apparent from the following equation:
H scr
=
D

0.67

f

op

(11)

where: Hscr = significant wave height at which blocks will be lifted out (m); op =
tan/(Hs/(1.56Tp2)) = breaker parameter (-); Tp = wave period (s); = relative mass
density of cover layer = (s - )/, and f = stability coefficient mainly dependent on
structure type and with minor influence of , tan and friction.
This research has proved that the stability of a revetment is dependent on the
composition and permeability of the whole system. of the cover layer. Formulas have
been derived to determine the permeability of a cover layer and filters, including a
geotextile. Also, stability criteria for granular and geotextile filters were developed
based on the load strength principle, allowing application of geometrically open
filters, and thus allowing optimisation of composition and permeability of revetments. It
is obvious that only a certain force exceeding a critical value can initiate the movement
of a certain grain in a structure. That also means that applying geometrically closed
rules for filters often may lead to unnecessary conservatism in the design and/or
limitation in optimisation freedom (see Figure 11). Also, it often results in execution
problems especially when strict closed filter (with many layers) has to be executed
under water under unstable weather conditions (Pilarczyk, 1994, Schiereck, 2001).

32
Pilarczyk

Fig. 11 Application of granular filters (Schiereck, 2001)

In the scope of these studies, also the internal strength of subsoil has been studied in
terms of critical hydraulic gradients. It was recognised that to reduce the acting
gradients below the critical ones a certain thickness of the total revetment is needed.
This has resulted in additional design criteria on the required total thickness of
revetment to avoid the instability of the subsoil. That also means that granular filter
cannot always be replaced by geotextile only. For high wave attack (usually, wave
height larger than 0.5m or high turbulence of flow) the geotextile functioning as a filter
must be often accompanied by a certain thickness of the granular cushion layer for
damping hydraulic gradients. All these design criteria can be found in Pilarczyk (2000).
The main problem in extension of these achievements to other applications (other
revetments, filter structures, bottom protection, breakwaters, etc.) is the lack of
calculation methods on internal loads (i.e., hydraulic gradients) for different structural
geometry and composition. Also the geometrically open filter criteria need further
development. Research in these fields is still needed and will result in more reliable and
cost effective designs.
Verification of design

Not all hydraulic or coastal structures or their components are understood

completely; moreover, the existing design techniques represent only a certain
schematisation of reality. Therefore for a number of structures and/or applications the
verification of design by more sophisticated techniques can still be needed.
Whilst certain aspects, particularly in the hydraulic field, can be relatively
accurately predicted, the effect of the subsequent forces on the structure (including
transfer functions into sublayers and subsoil) cannot be represented with confidence in a
mathematical form for all possible configurations and systems. Essentially this means
that the designer must make provisions for perceived failure mechanisms either by
empirical rules or past experience. However, using this approach it is likely that the
design will be conservative. In general, coastal structures (i.e. revetments, sea walls,
etc.) are extended linear structures representing a high level of investment. The financial
constraints on a project can be so severe that they may restrict the factors of safety
arising from an empirical design. It is therefore essential from both the aspects of
economy and structural integrity that the overall design of a structure should be subject
33
Pilarczyk

to verification. Verification can take several forms: physical modelling, full-scale

prototype testing, lessons from past failures, etc.
Engineers are continually required to demonstrate value for money. Verification of a
design is often expensive. However, taken as a percentage of the total costs, the cost is
in fact very small and can lead to considerable long-term savings in view of the
uncertainties that exist in the design of hydraulic and coastal structures. The client
should therefore always be informed about the limitations of the design process and the
need for verification in order to achieve the optimum design.
MATERIALS AND SYSTEMS; SOME EXAMPLES

The cost of production and transportation of materials required for hydraulic and
coastal structures is an important consideration when selecting a particular design
solution. Thus it is important to establish the availability and quality of materials for a
particular site at an early stage when considering design options. Using the available
tools and models, the structure can be designed to perform the functional requirements.
An additional problem is that these functions will change with time in service because
of material degradation processes. Therefore the designers skill must also encompass
consideration of durability and degradation processes. A degradation models for
materials and structures should be developed so that the whole-life consequences may
be considered at the design stage (NB. a provisional model for armour stone, which
considered rock and environmental parameters, is presented in the CUR/CIRIA Manual
(1991).
Wastes and industrial by-products as alternative materials

Domestic and industrial wastes and industrial by-products form a still growing
problem especially in high-industrialized countries or highly populated regions. A
careful policy on application of these materials in civil engineering may (partly) help to
reduce this problem. Current European policies aim to increase the use of waste
materials of all kinds and to find economic, satisfactory and safe means of their
disposal. The use of waste materials in hydraulic and coastal structures is limited by
their particle size distribution, mechanical and chemical stabilities and the need to avoid
materials which present an actual or potential toxic hazard (CUR/CIRIA, 1991,
CUR/RWS 1995, Henneveld and Van der Zwan, 1997).
In the Netherlands, due to the lack of natural rock resources, the application of waste
materials in civil engineering has already a long tradition. The extensive research on
properties of waste materials allows making a proper selection depending on
environmental requirements. Waste materials such as silex, quarry wastes, dredging
sludge (depending on the source/location), and many minestone wastes have little or no
hazardous contamination. These materials can be used as possible core, embankment fill
or filter material. The engineering properties of many waste materials are often
comparable or better than traditional materials. Slags have good friction properties due
to their angularity and roughness and typically have high density. Mine wastes
sometimes have poor weathering characteristics, but are usually inert and have
satisfactory grading for deep fills. The fine materials such as fly ashes and ground slags
are already in general use as cement replacement and fillers. Good quality control, not
only for limiting the potential for toxic hazard, but also of the mechanical properties of
waste materials can considerably increase the use of such low-cost materials in
appropriately designed coastal and bank protection structures.
34
Pilarczyk

Geosynthetics and durability

Geosynthetics are relatively a new type of construction material and gained a large
popularity especially in geotechnical engineering and as component for filter structures.
There is a large number of types and properties of geosynthetics, which can be tailored to
the project requirements (Pilarczyk, 2000). Geosynthetics have already transformed
geotechnical engineering to the point that it is no longer possible to do geotechnical
engineering without geosynthetics; they are used for drainage, reinforcement of
embankments, reduction of settlement, temporary erosion control, and hazardous waste
containment facilities (Giroud, 1987). These latest are very often planned as land
reclamation along the shores.
When geosynthetic materials or products are applied in civil engineering, they are
intended to perform particular functions for a minimum expected time, called the design
life. Therefore, the most common (and reasonable) question when applying
geosynthetics is what is the expected/guaranteed lifespan of these materials and
products. There is no a straight answers to this question. Actually, it is still a matter of
to believe or not to believe. Both the experimental theory and practice cannot answer
this question yet. However, the Dutch evaluation of the long-term performance of the
older applications of geotextiles (back to 1968) has proved that the hydraulic
functioning was still satisfactory. A similar conclusion has been drawn from the recent
evaluation of the long-term performance of nonwoven geotextiles from five coastal and
bank-protection projects in USA (Mannsbart and Christopher, 1997).
The technology of geosynthetics has improved considerably in the years. Therefore,
one may expect that with all the modern additives and UV-stabilizers, the quality of
geosynthetics is (or can be, on request) much higher than in the 60s. Therefore, for the
unbelievers among us, the answer about the guaranteed design life of geosynthetics
can be at least 50 years. For believers, one may assume about 100 years or more for
buried or underwater applications. These intriguing questions on the lifespan of
geosynthetics are the subject of various studies and the development of various test
methods over the world. Also, the international agencies related to normalization and
standardization are very active in this field. The recent guide (European Standard) of the
European Normalization Committee presents the actual normalized knowledge on this
subject (CEN/CR ISO, 1998). The object of this durability assessment is to provide the
designing engineer with the necessary information (generally defined in terms of
material reduction or partial safety factors) so that the expected design life can be
achieved with confidence.
Geosystems

In recent years traditional forms of river and coastal works/structures have become
very expensive to build and maintain. Various structures/systems can be of use in
hydraulic and coastal engineering, from traditional rubble and/or concrete systems to
more novel materials and systems such as geotextiles/geosynthetics, natural
(geo)textiles, gabions, waste materials, etc. Moreover, there is a growing interest both in
developed and developing countries in low-cost or novel engineering methods,
particularly as the capital cost of defence works and their maintenance continue to rise.
The shortage of natural rock in certain geographical regions can also be a reason for
looking to other materials and systems. This all has prompted a demand for cheaper,
less massive and more environmentally acceptable engineering. However, besides the
35
Pilarczyk

standard application in filter constructions, the application of geosynthetics and

geosystems in hydraulic and coastal engineering still has a very incidental character,
and it is usually not treated as a serious alternative to the conventional solutions. That
was for the author the main reason to write the state-of-the-art on application of
geosynthetics and geosystems in hydraulic and coastal engineering (Pilarczyk, 2000).
Some of the recent applications are shown in Figure 12.

Fig. 12. Some concepts on the application of geotextile systems

These new (geo)systems (geomattresses, geobags, geotubes, seaweed, geocurtains and
screens) were applied successfully in number of countries and they deserve to be applied
on a larger scale. Recently, geocontainers filled with dredged material have been used in
36
Pilarczyk

dikes and breakwaters in a number of projects around the world, and their use in this field
is growing very fast. Also, a number of new applications for geosynthetic curtains and
screens have been developed and tested in practice.
Because of the lower price and easier execution these systems can be a good alternative
for protective structures in hydraulic and coastal engineering both in developed and
developing countries. The main obstacle in their application, however, is the lack of proper
design criteria (in comparison with rock, concrete units, etc.). In the past, the design of
these systems was mostly based on rather vague experience than on the general valid
calculation methods. More research, especially concerning the large-scale tests and the
evaluation of the performance of projects already realised, is still needed. In Pilarczyk
(2000) an overview is given of the existing geotextile systems, their design methods (if
available), and their applications. Where possible, some comparison with traditional
materials and/or systems is presented. The recent research on some of these systems has
provided better insight into the design and applications.
TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER AND CAPACITY BUILDING

Know-how/technology transfer is an important expedient in the sustainable

development of nations. Technology transfer is sustainable when it is able to deliver an
appropriate level of benefits for an extended period of time, after major financial,
managerial and technical assistance from an external partner is terminated. Apart from
clearly identified objectives for Technology Transfer projects, proper project design and
well-managed project execution, essential factors conditioning the survival of projects
include: policy environment in recipient institution/country, appropriateness of
technology and management organisational capacity (Overbeek et al, 1991).
Technology Transfer means the transfer of knowledge and skills, possibly in
combination with available tools, to institutions and individuals, with the ultimate aim
to contribute to the sustainable development of the receiving institution (national) or
country (international). Professional educational institutes are likely to restrict their
work to specialised education and training of individuals. Institutions, however,
generally aim at a broader approach. The objective of Technology Transfer should be to
reinforce the capability of institutions and individuals to solve their problems
independently. The required support can be indicated in a diagram differentiating
between the analysis and solution phases of engineering problems. Obviously,
knowledge and experience is required on three levels to obtain optimum results:
- knowledge of the processes
- knowledge and experience in the use of process simulation techniques
- experience in practical applications
Knowledge and experience can best be transferred in phases during a project that
runs over several years. In many cases, however, budget restrictions call for another
approach. The advisor may be called upon as a consultant, and the project includes only
some of the phases mentioned above.
Not only knowledge and skills must be transferred to the clients staff, but it must also
be integrated in the clients organization for future, independent use. In order to
guarantee an efficient interaction between the transfer and the integration activities,
distinction in phases is required. One may distinguish the following realization phases:

37
Pilarczyk

1.
2.
3.
4.

professional education (general scientific/technological level)

professional training (new/specific technology/skills/tools)
development phase (physical/logistic adjustments at recipient party)
institute support (advisory services/exchange visits during project)

The necessary number of phases may vary depending of situation (country, type of
project).
Capacity building is important pre-condition for the realization of future challenges
and transfer of know-how, especially for developing countries.
Hydraulic and Coastal engineering is a complex art. At this moment a limited
number of phenomena can be understood with the help of the laws of physics and fluid
mechanics. For the remainder, formulas have been developed with a limited accuracy.
In addition, input data are limited availability and form another source of uncertainty.
Consequently, a sound engineering approach is required, based on practical experience
and supported by physical and numerical models, to increase the understanding of many
phenomena and to come up with sustainable solutions. Especially, standard solutions
do not exist in coastal engineering; solutions very much depend on the local
circumstances as well as the social and political approach towards coastal engineering.
Consequently, the transfer of coastal engineering knowledge is a complex art as well.
Sustainable transfer of hydraulic and coastal engineering technology at postgraduate level should therefore aim at increasing the capacities and skills of the
engineers such that they are able to analyse a problem correctly and identify possible
directions of solutions. Simply learning formulas and learning standard solutions for
standard problems are not fruitful and even dangerous: such training does not increase
the engineers understanding of the underlying processes and serious failures may be
the result. Transfer of hydraulic and coastal engineering technology should therefore be
problem oriented, practical in nature and geared towards the specific needs of the
engineers following the training programme (Verhagen, 1999).
A general trend can be observed from applying rules to more conceptual thinking.
Rules will change fast, so it is more important for an engineer to know the design
philosophy. Also engineers have to learn where to find the most up-to-date knowledge
regarding the design, which he is making at a certain moment. Because the increased
growth in science, rules are outdated faster than in the past; this means that in most cases
engineers should not apply the rules they have learned in university. So they should be
trained always first to verify if the design method they learned in university is still valid.
Engineers should be trained in a flexible application of the design methodologies they
have learned. For design purposes the use of complicated computer software is increasing.
The packages become more and more user friendly, but the insight in the computational
process becomes less. This means that the direct link between output and input is less
obvious. Engineers have to become more and more aware of the need of checking the
output of these programs in inconsistencies (rather than on numerical accuracy). Because
of the high quality of presentation methods of modern software, input inconsistencies are
often not recognized in time. Engineers have to be trained to become more and more keen
on this problem (Verhagen, 1996).

38
Pilarczyk

Transfer of technology to developing countries can also be a complex matter and

needs properly educated engineers. Copying solutions from the western, industrial
countries for application in developing countries is in general not the best solution for
solving the problems of developing countries. The main reason for that is that the
available resources in the developing world are different from the resources in western
countries. In the industrialized countries there is a strong tendency to solve problems in
such a way that the amount of required labor decreases, so a capital-intensive solution is
searched for. The reason for this is the very costly social system and the high standard
of living. This causes a big difference between the hourly income and the hourly costs
of labor. In developing countries this difference is much less, but on the contrary it is
difficult and expensive to import industrial products from elsewhere. Also it is difficult
to have sufficient capital available. For those countries it is more economic to search for
solutions, which require hardly any investments, but are relatively labor intensive.
These solutions generally require often more maintenance. However, increased
maintenance costs are sometimes very pleasant, provided the initial investment is very
low. The cost of the solution can be spread over a longer period without borrowing
money for a capital-intensive solution. Maintenance is very important for sustainability
of the investment/projects. Maintenance has to be done on the right moment. Also, there
has to be a maintaining agency and there has to be a maintenance plan.
In solving these problems, one should always analyse the cause of the problem.
Sometimes it is easier to change something in the estuary or river, than to combat the
erosion. When it is not possible to take away the cause of the problem, then a number of
technical tools are available as discussed in this book. In the design of these methods in
most cases a low-investment approach can be followed. Low investment solutions
generally require more maintenance than capital-intensive solutions. Therefore the
construction has to be designed in such a way that maintenance can be performed easily,
with local means, thus, with local materials, local people and with local equipment.
These requirements are not very special and one can meet these requirements easily.
The main problem is that one has to realise these points during the design phase.
We may conclude from the above that modern engineer must be educated in various
technical and non-technical fields. The task of engineers involved in problems of
developing countries should be the adaptation (translation) the actual knowledge to
appropriate technologies suitable for their problems and their possibilities.
CONCLUSIONS

Problem identification and understanding is very important for a proper choice of

solution to water (flood) management and coastal problems. Generally, it may be
concluded that there are both physical as well as social aspects to every problem. As a
consequence mere technical solutions often turn out to be mistake. Furthermore, the
future use of coast in general should be tailored to fit within the system, whether it is a
recreational coast, a wetland or an ecosystem. For sustainable management, land use
planning is required which does take floodplains and coastal waters into account. Proper
quality of environmental boundary conditions defines the quality of design. In many
cases, especially in less developed countries this can be a main obstacle in design of
hydraulic and/or coastal structures. Further developments in forecasting and
transformation techniques should be stimulated.

39
Pilarczyk

There are a large number of hydraulic and coastal structures. For some of them,
workable design criteria have been developed in recent years (rubble-mound
breakwaters, riprap, block revetments, filter structures, etc.). However, many of these
criteria/formulae are still not quite satisfactory, mainly because they are lacking
physical background, what makes extrapolation beyond the present range of experience
rather risky. To solve this problem, it will be necessary to continue physical model
experiments (on scale and in prototype) to develop, validate and calibrate new theories.
Moreover, there is still a large number of systems with not adequate design techniques,
for example, groins, submerged/reef breakwaters, a number of revetment types
(gabions, geomattresses), geosystems, open filter, prediction and measures against
scouring, etc. However, opposite to the functional design, the structural design can
always be solved by the existing means (design criteria if available or model
investigation), assuming availability of funds. Functional design (especially for coastal
problems) is one of the most important and most difficult stages in the design process. It
defines the effectiveness of the measure (project) in solving specific problem.
Unfortunately, there are still many coastal problems where the present functional design
methods are rather doubtful, especially concerning shoreline erosion control measures
(i.e. groins, sea walls). Also, adequate measures against lee-side erosion (flanking)
deserve more attention.
Alternative (waste) materials and geosynthetics and geosystems constitute potential
alternatives for more conventional materials and systems. They deserve to be applied on
a larger scale. The geosynthetic durability and the long-term behaviour of geosystems
belong to the category of overall uncertainties and create a serious obstacle in the wider
application of geosynthetics and geosystems and, therefore, are still matters of concern.
The understanding of the coastal responses in respect to the sedimentary coast and
its behaviour is at least qualitatively available. However, reliable quantification is still
lacking which make functional design of shore erosion control structures very risky.
Much mathematical and experimental work is still to be done. Because of scale effects,
the experiments will have to be carried out in large facilities or may be verification is
even only possible on the basis of prototype observations over a long period. This work
is so complicated that international co-operation is almost a prerequisite to achieve
success within a reasonable time and cost frame.
Research on hydraulic and coastal structures should benefit from more co-operations
among researchers and the associated institutions. Publishing basic information and
standardised data would be very useful and helpful in establishing a more general
worldwide data bank available, for example, on a website. Systematic (international)
monitoring of realised projects (including failure cases) and evaluation of the prototype
and laboratory data may provide useful information for verification purposes and further
improvement of design methods. It is also the role of the national and international
organisations to identify this lack of information and to launch a multiclient studies for
extended monitoring and testing programmes, to provide users with an independent
assessment of the long-term performance of hydraulic and coastal structures, including
alternative materials and systems (geosynthetics, geosystems, alternative/waste
materials, etc.).

40
Pilarczyk

Inventory, evaluation and dissemination of existing knowledge and future needs,

and creating a worldwide accessible data bank are urgent future needs and some actions
in this direction should be undertaken by international organisations involved (PIANC,
IAHR, UNESCO/WMO, US Coastal Council). It should be recommended to organise
periodically (within time span of 5 to 10 years) state-of-the-art reports on various subitems of hydraulic and coastal engineering, which should be prepared by international
experts in a certain field. It can be organised by creating semi-permanent working
groups on specific subject and their activities should be paid from a common
international fund, which should be established by one of the international organization.
Adjustment of the present education system as a part of capacity building for
solving future problems should be recognised as one of the new challenges in hydraulic
and coastal engineering. It is also important for the proper technology transfer to
developing countries and development and maintaining of appropriate technologies for
local use. Moreover, solidarity must be found in sharing knowledge, costs and benefits
with less developed countries which are not able to facilitate the future requirements of
integrated coastal management by themselves (on its own) including possible effects of
climate change. More attention should be paid to integration of technological innovation
with institutional reforms, to rise of awareness to change human behaviour, to
developing of appropriate technologies that are affordable by poorer countries, to
promoting technologies that would fit into small land holdings (local communities), and
to capacity building (education), which is needed to continue this process in sustainable
way.
Finally, there is a continuous development in the field of hydraulic and coastal
engineering, and there is always a certain time gap between new developments
(products and design criteria) and publishing them in manuals or professional books.
Therefore, it is recommended to follow the professional literature on this subject for
updating the present knowledge and/or exchanging new ideas.
REFERENCES

Ahrens, J.P., 1975, Large Wave Tank Tests of Riprap Stability, C.E.R.C. Technical
Memorandum no. 51, May.
Ahrens, J.P., and T. Bender, 1991, Evaluating the performance of seawalls,
Proc.Coastal Structures and Breakwaters, London; publ. by Thomas Telford, 1992.
ASCE, 1995, Wave Forces on Inclined and Vertical Wall Structures, Task Committee on
Forces on Inclined and Vertical Wall Structures, ASCE, New York.
Battjes, J.A. and Janssen, J.P.F.M., 1978, Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of
random waves, Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 569-587.
Bezuijen, A. and Klein Breteler, M., 1966, Design Formulas for Block Revetments, J.
Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng. 122, 6.
Booij, N., Holthuijsen, L.H. and Ris, R.C., 1996, The SWAN wave model for shallow
water, Proc. 25th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Orlando.
Borsboom, M., N. Doorn, J. Groeneweg and M. van Gent, 2000, A Boussinesq-type
wave model that conserves both mass and momentum, ASCE, Proc. ICCE, Sydney.
Borsboom, M., N. Doorn, J. Groeneweg and M. van Gent, 2001, Near-shore wave
simulations with a Boussinesq-type model including breaking, Proc. Coastal
Dynamics 2001, Lund.

41
Pilarczyk

Burger, A.M., M. Klein Breteler, L. Banach, A. Bezuijen and K.W. Pilarczyk, 1990;
Analytical design formulas for relatively closed block revetments; Journal of
Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng., ASCE, vol. 116 no. 5, Sept/Oct.
Burcharth, H.F., 1980, Full-scale dynamic testing of Dolosse to destruction, Proc.
17thIntern. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, Sydney; also, Coastal Engineering,
Elsevier, No. 4, 1981, pp. 229-251.
Burcharth, H.F., 1983, Materials, structural design of armour units, Proc. Seminar on
rubble mound breakwaters, Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden;
Bulletin No. TRITA-VBI-120 (Ed. Gosta Werner).
Burcharth, H.F., 1984, Fatigue in Breakwater Concrete Armour Units, Proc. 19th
Intern.Conf. on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas.
Burcharth, H.F., 1987, The lessons from recent breakwater failures Development in
Breakwater Design, Proceedings World Federation of Engineering Organizations,
Technical Congress on Inshore Engineering, may 1987, Vancouver, Canada.
Burcharth, H.F., 1991, Bosaso Harbour. A new hot-climate port development. Proc. 3rd
Intern. Conf. on Coastal & Port Engng. In Developing Countries, Mombassa,
Kenya.
Burcharth, H.F., 1991, Design innovation, including recent research contributions,
Proc.Coastal Structures and Breakwaters, Thomas Telford, London.
Burcharth, H.F., 1992, Design of rubble mound breakwaters. Structural Integrity.
Proc.Short Course on Design Reliability of Coastal Structures, 23rd Int. Conf. on
Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy.
Burcharth, H.F., 1994, Reliability evaluation of a structure at sea, Proc. Int. Workshop on
Wave Barriers in Deepwaters, Port and harbour Research Institute, Yokosuka, Japan.
Burcharth, H.F., 1999a, State of the art in conceptual design of breakwaters, Proc. Coastal
Structures99, Vol. 1, A.A. Balkema, publisher, Rotterdam.
Burcharth, H.F., 1999b, The PIANC safety factor system for breakwaters, Proc. Coastal
Structures99, Vol. 2, A.A. Balkema, publisher, Rotterdam.
Burcharth, H.F, Liu, Z. and Troch, P., 1999c, Scaling of core material in rubble mound
breakwater model tests, Proc. COPEDEC V, Cape town, South Africa.
Burcharth, H.F., 2001, Verification of overall safety factors in deterministic design of
model tested breakwaters, Proc. Advanced design of maritime structures in 21st
century, Port and Harbour Research Institute, Yokosuka, Japan.
Burcharth, H.F., dAngremond, K., Van der Meer, J.W. and Liu, Z., 2000, Empirical
formulae for breakage of Dolosse and Tetrapods, Coastal Engineering, Elsevier, 40.
CEN/CR ISO, 1998, Guide to durability of geotextiles and geotextiles related products,
European Normalization Committee (CEN), CR ISO 13434, Paris.
CIRIA, 1986, Sea Wall; Survey of performance and design practice, Construction
Industry Research and Information Association (CIRIA), Tech. note 125, London.
CIRIA, 1990, Guide on the uses of groynes in coastal engineering, Construction
Industry Research and Information Association (CIRIA), report 119, London.
EAU 1996, 2000, Recommendations of the Committee for Waterfront Structures,
Harbours and Waterways, 7th English edition, Ernst & Sohn, Berlin.
CIRIA, 1996, Beach management manual, CIRIA, London.
CUR, 1995, Design manual for pitched slope protection, CUR report 155, ISBN 90
5410 606 9, Gouda, the Netherlands.
CUR, 1997, Beach nourishments and shore parallel structures, CUR-report 97-2, NL.
CUR/CIRIA, 1991, Manual on use of rock in coastal engineering, CUR/CIRIA report 154,
Centre for Civil Engineering Research and Codes (CUR), Gouda, the Netherlands.

42
Pilarczyk

CUR/RWS, 1995, Manual on the use of rock in hydraulic engineering, CUR report 169,
Centre for Civil Engineering Research and Codes (CUR), P.O. Box 420, 2800 AK
Gouda, A.A. Balkema (Publisher), NL.
CUR/TAW, 1990, Probabilistic Design of Flood Defences, CUR-report 141/TAW
guide, Gouda, the Netherlands. Centre for Civil Engineering Research and Codes
(CUR), Technical Advisory Committee on Water Defences (TAW),
DAngremond, K. and Van Roode, F.C., 2001, Breakwaters and closure dams, Delft
University Press, Delft, the Netherlands.
DAngremond, K. 2001, Coastal Engineering, Achievements and Challenges,
International Symposium on Marine Engineering, Singapore.
De Groot, M.B., Bezuijen, A., Burger, A.M. and Konter, J.L.M., 1988, The interaction
between soil, water and bed or slope protection. Int. Symp. on Modelling Soil-WaterStructure Interactions, Delft, A. Balkema.
Fowler, R.E. and Allsop, N.W.H., 1999, Codes, standards and practice for coastal engineering in the UK, Proc. Coastal Structures99, Vol. 2, A.A. Balkema, Rotterdam.
Giroud, J.P., 1987, Geotextiles and Related Products, in Geotechnical Modelling and
Applications, Sayed M. Sayed editor, Gulf Publishing Company, Houston.
Goda, Y., 1985, Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures, Univ. of Tokyo Press.
Hanson, H., Thevenot, M.M. and Kraus, N.C., 1996, Numerical simulation of shoreline
change with longshore sand waves at groins, Proc. Coastal Engineering, Orlando.
Henneveld, R.J.P. and Van der Zwan, J.Th., 1997, Sustainable Development and Road
Construction; Sustainable Building in The Netherlands, 13th World Meeting IRF,
Toronto, Canada.
Hibberd, S. and D.H. Peregrine, 1979, Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore, J. of
Fluid Mechanics, Vol.95, part 2, pp.323-345.
Hillen, R. and Jorissen, R.E., 1995, Major Floods Events in the Netherlands, 30th
Conf.Of River &Coastal Engineers, MAFF, London.
Hsu, J.R.C., Uda, T. and Silvester, R., 1999, Shoreline Protection Methods - Japanese
Experience, in Handbook of Coastal Engineering (J.B. Herbich, ed.), McGraw-Hill.
Itoh, K, Toue, T. and Katsui, H., 2001, Numerical simulation of submerged breakwater
deformation by DEM and VOF, Proc. Advanced design of maritime structures in 21st
century, Port and Harbour Research Institute, Yokosuka, Japan.
Jorissen, R.E. and Stallen, P.J.M., 1998, Quantified Societal risk and Policy Making,
Kluwer Academic Publishers, Boston/Dordrecht/London.
Jorissen, R., Litjens-van Loon, J. and Mendez Lorenzo, A., 2001, Flooding risk in
coastal areas; risk, safety levels and probabilistic techniques in five countries along
the North Sea coast, Rijkswaterstaat, Road and Hydraulic Engineering Division,
Delft, the Netherlands.
Klein Breteler, M. and A. Bezuijen, 1988, The permeability of closely placed blocks on
gravel, SOWAS88, A.A. Balkema.
Klein Breteler, M., T. Stoutjesdijk, and K. Pilarczyk, 1998, Design of alternative
revetments, 26th ICCE, Copenhagen.
Kennedy, A.B., Q. Chen, J.T. Kirby and R.A. Dalrymple (2000), Boussinesq modelling
of wave transformation, breaking and runup. I One Dimension, J. of Waterway,
Port, Coastal and Ocean Engrg, ASCE, Vol.126, pp.39-47.
Kobayashi, N., A.K. Otta and I. Roy, 1987, Wave reflection and run-up on rough
slopes, J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engrg, ASCE, Vol.113, No.3.
Kobayashi, N., 1999, Future of coastal engineering and structures, Proceedings of
Coastal Structures99, A.A. Balkema, Rotterdam.

43
Pilarczyk

Koch, M., 2000, Natural hazards and disasters: origins, risks, mitigation and prediction,
Int. Symposium on River Flood Defence, Kassel, Germany.
Khler, H.J. Bezuijen A., 1995 Permeability influence of filter layers on the stability of
rip-rap revetments under wave attack. Proc. 5th Int. Conf. Geotextiles,
Geomembranes and Related Products, Singapore.
Kraus, N.C. and O.H. Pilkey, eds., 1988. The effect of seawalls on the beach, Journal of
Coastal Research, Special issue no. 4.
Larson, M., Kraus, N.C. and Hanson, H., 1997, Analytical Solutions of the One-Line
Model of Shoreline Change Near Coastal Structures, J. Waterway, Port, Coastal
and Ocean Engr., ASCE.
Losada, I.J., ed., 2000, Coastal Structures99, Proceedings of the International
Conference Coastal Structures99, Santander, Spain, A.A. Balkema, publisher,
Rotterdam/Brookfield (info@balkema.nl).
MAFF, 1997, interim guidance for the strategic planning and appraisal of flood and
coastal defence schemes, Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Flood, London.
MAFF, 2000, Flood and Coastal Defence Project Appraisal Guidance; Approaches to
Risk, Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Flood, London.
Mannsbart, G. and B.R. Christopher, 1997, Long-term performance of nonwoven
geotextile filters in five coastal and bank protection projects, Geotextiles and
Geomembranes, Vol. 15, no. 4-6.
Meadowcroft, I.C., Reeve, D.E., Allsop, N.W.H., Diment, R.P. and J. Cross,
1995,Development of new risk assessment procedures for coastal structures, Proc.
Advances in coastal structures and breakwaters, Thomas Telford, 1996, London.
NRC, 1995, Beach nourishment and protection, National Research Council,
Washington, D.C., National Academy Press.
NRC, 1999, Meeting research and education needs in coastal engineering, National
Research Council, Washington, D.C., National Academy Press.
OCADI, 1999/2002, The Technical Standards and Commentaries for Port and Harbour
Facilities in Japan, The Overseas Coastal Area Development Institute of Japan,
(revised English version), Tokyo.
Oumeraci, H., Allsop, N.W.H., De Groot, M.B., Crouch, R.S., and Vrijling, J.K., 1999,
Probabilistic design methods for vertical breakwaters (PROVERBS), Proceedings of
Coastal Structures99, A.A. Balkema, Rotterdam.
Oumeraci, H., 2001, Conceptual framework for risk-based design of coastal flood
defences; a suggestion, Proc. Advanced design of maritime structures in 21st century,
Port and Harbour Research Institute, Yokosuka, Japan.
Overbeek, H.J, J.van der Weide and H. Derks, 1991, Effective Technology Transfer
from One Institute to Another, Delft Hydraulics (for IAHR).
Partensky, H.W., 1998, The European research programmes in coastal engineering,
Proc. 26th Coast. Eng. Conf., Denmark.
PHRI, 2001, Advanced Design of Maritime Structures in 21st Century, Port and
Harbour Research Institute, Yokosuka, Japan.
PIANC, 1987, Guidelines for the design and construction of flexible revetments
incorporating geotextiles for inland waterways, PIANC, Supplement to Bulletin No.
57, Brussels, Belgium.
PIANC, 1992, Guidelines for the design and construction of flexible revetments
incorporating geotextiles in marine environment, PIANC, Supplement to Bulletin
No. 78/79, Brussels, Belgium.

44
Pilarczyk

PIANC, 1992, Analysis of rubble mound breakwaters, Report of Working Group 12,
PIANC, Supplement to Bulletin No. 78/79, Brussels, Belgium.
Pilarczyk, K.W., 1984, (a) Stability of rock-fill structures, (b) Filters, in Closure Tidal
Basins, Huis in t Veld et al. Editors), Delft University Press, the Netherlands.
Pilarczyk, K.W., ed., 1990, Coastal Protection, A.A. Balkema Publisher, Rotterdam,
Netherlands (sales@balkema.nl).
Pilarczyk, K.W., ed., 1998, Dikes and Revetments, A.A. Balkema Publisher, NL.
Pilarczyk, K.W., 1999, Design of Dikes and Revetments Dutch Practice, in Handbook
of Coastal Engineering (J.B. Herbich, ed.), McGraw-Hill.
Pilarczyk, K.W., 2000, Geosynthetics and Geosystems in Hydraulic and Coastal
Engineering, A.A. Balkema, Rotterdam.
Pilarczyk, K.W., 2001, Unification of stability formulas for revetments, Proc. IAHR
Congress, Beijing, China.
Pilarczyk, K.W. and K. den Boer, 1983, Stability and profile development of coarse
materials and their application in coastal engineering, Proc. Inter. Conference on
Coastal and Port Engineering in Developing Countries, Colombo, Sri Lanka (also
Delft Hydraulics, publication no. 293).
Pilarczyk, K.W., Laan, G.J. and Den Adel, H., 1987, Application of some waste
materials in hydraulic engineering, 2nd European Conference on Environmental
Technology, Amsterdam.
Pilarczyk, K.W. and Zeidler, R., 1995, Offshore breakwaters and shore evolution
control, A.A. Balkema Publisher, Rotterdam, Netherlands.
Pilarczyk, K.W., Klein Breteler, M. and Bezuijen, A., 1995, Wave Forces and Structural
Response of Placed Block Revetments on Inclined Structures, in Wave Forces on
Inclined and Vertical Wall Structures, ASCE, New York.
Pilarczyk, K.W. and Nguyen Sy Nuoi, 2002, Flood protection and management in
Vietnam, Coastal Disasters02, San Diego.
Przedwojski, B., Blazejewski, R. and K.W. Pilarczyk, 1995, RIVER TRAINING
TECHNIQUES; Fundamentals, Design and Applications, A.A. Balkema Publisher,
Rotterdam.
RIKZ, 2001, Coastal protection Guidelines; a guide to copy with erosion in the broader
perspective of Integrated Coastal Zone Management, CZM-C 2001.03, National
Institute for Coastal and Marine Management (RIKZ), The Hague, The Netherlands.
Ris, R.C., 1997, Spectral modelling of wind waves in coastal areas, Ph.D.-thesis, Delft
University of Technology, ISBN 90-407-1455-X, Delft University Press, Delft.
Ris, R.C., N. Booij, L.H. Holthuijsen, R. Padilla-Hernandez, IJ.G.Haagsma, 1998, Swan
Cycle 2; User manual for version 30.75, Delft University of Technology.
ROM 02.99, 1999, Acciones en el Proyecto de Obras Maritimas y Portuarias. Puertos
del Estado. Revision for the Technical Committee. (Puertos del Estada, Avda. Del
Pon 10, Madrid 28042, Spain)
Samuels, P.G., 2000, An overview of flood estimation and flood prevention, Int.
Symposium on River Flood Defence, Kassel, Germany.
RWS, 1994. DESIGN PLAN OOSTERSCHELDE STORM-SURGE BARRIER:
Overall Design and Design Philosophy, Ministry of Transport, Public Works and
Water Management, Rijkswaterstaat (RWS), (A.A. Balkema, Publ.), Netherlands.
RWS (Rijkswaterstaat), 1987. The Closure of Tidal Basins; closing of estuaries, tidal
inlets and dike breaches, published by the Delft University Press, Delft, NL.
RWS (Rijkswaterstaat), 1990. A new coastal defence policy for The Netherlands,
Rijkswaterstaat (RWS), Tidal Water Division, The Hague.

45
Pilarczyk

Schffer, H.A., R. Deigaard and P. Madsen, 1992, A two-dimensional surf-zone model

based on the Boussinesq equations, ASCE, Proc. ICCE92, Vol.1, Venice.
Schiereck, G.J., 2001, Introduction to bed, bank and shore protection, Delft University
Press, Delft.
SPM, 1984, Shore Protection Manual, Coastal Engineering Research Centre, US Corps
of Engineers, 4th edition, Washington.
Troch, P., 2001, Experimental study an numerical modelling of pore pressure
attenuation inside a rubble mound breakwater, PIANC Bulletin No. 108, Brussels.
TAW, 1996, Guidelines on Safety Assessment for Water Retaining Structures,
Technical Advisory Committee on Water Defences (TAW), Road and Hydraulic
Engineering Division, Delft, the Netherlands.
TAW, 1999, Guide for the Design of Sea- and Lake dikes, Technical Advisory
Committee on Water Defences (TAW), Road and Hydraulic Engineering Division,
Delft, the Netherlands.
TAW, 2000, Fundamentals on water defences, Technical Advisory Committee on Water
Defences (TAW), Road and Hydraulic Engineering Division, Delft, the Netherlands.
Van der Meer, J.P., 1988, Rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack, PhDthesis Delft University of Technology, April 1988; (also available as Delft
Hydraulics Communication 396).
Van der Weide, J., 1989, General introduction and hydraulic aspects, in Short Course
on design of coastal structures, Asian Institute of Technology, Bangkok.
Van Gent, M.R.A., 1994, The modelling of wave action on and in coastal structures,
Coastal Engineering, Vol.22 (3-4), pp.311-339, Elsevier, Amsterdam.
Van Gent, M.R.A., 1995, Wave interaction with permeable coastal structures, Ph.D.thesis, Delft University of Technology, ISBN 90-407-1182-8, Delft University Press.
Van Gent, M.R.A., 1999, Physical model investigations on coastal structures with
shallow foreshores; 2D model test on the Petten Sea-defence, Delft Hydraulics
Report H3129-July 1999, Delft.
Van Gent, M.R.A., 2000, Wave run-up on dikes with shallow foreshores, ASCE, Proc.
ICCE 2000, Sydney.
Van Gent, M.R.A. and N. Doorn, 2000, Numerical model investigations on coastal
structures with shallow foreshores; Validation of numerical models based on
physical model tests on the Petten Sea-defence, Delft Hydraulics Report H3351,
May 2000, Delft.
Van Gent, M. and Doorn, N, 2001, Numerical model simulations of wave propagation
and run-up on dikes with shallow foreshores, Coastal Dynamics01.
Van Hijum, E. and Pilarczyk, K.W., 1982, Gravel beaches; equilibrium profile and
longshore transport of coarse material under regular and irregular wave attack, Delft
Hydraulics Laboratory, Publication no. 274, July, Delft, the Netherlands.
Verhagen, H.J. and Yap, J.T.L., 1992, Coastal Zone Management with relation to low
investment solutions, 2nd Seminar of PIANC for Developing Countries, Surabaya,
Indonesia.
Verhagen, H.J., 1996, Education of coastal engineers for the 50th ICCE, Proc. ICCE
96, Orlando.
Verhagen, H.J. and De Vries, W.S., 1999, Sustainable transfer of coastal engineering
knowledge at post gradual level, Proc. COPEDEC99, Cape Town.
Vrijling, J.K., van Hengel, W. and Houben, R.J., 1998, Acceptable risk as a basis for
design, Journal Rel. Enging. and System Safety 59.

46
Pilarczyk

Key Words: hydraulic and coastal structures, applications, methodology, design codes,

manuals, developments, review, international perspective

47
Pilarczyk

49
Pilarczyk