A

SECTION A
TIlE ENGINE
(2~ LITRE)
General Description.
The Lubrication System.
Section No. A. I
Draining the engine sump.
Section No. A.2
Removal and replacement of the sump.
Section No. A.3
Removal and replacement of the oil pump.
Dismantling and reassembling the oil pump.
Section No. A.4
The oil pressure release valve.
Section No. A~5
Removal and replacement of the main bearings.
Section No. A.6
Removal and replacement of the cylinder head.
Section No. A.7
Removal of piston and connecting rod.
Section No. A.8
Section No. A.9
Removal a!ld replacement of the piston rings.
Section No. A.IO
Fitting the gudgeon pins and reassembling piston and connecting rod.
Section No. A.l I
Removal and replacement of the carburetters.
Section No. A.12
Removal of the inlet manifold.
Section No. A.13
Removal of the exhaust manifold.
Removal and dismantling of the water pump.
Section No. A.14
Setting the tappets.
Section No. A.15
Removing the dynamo belt.
Section No. A.16
Removal of the crankshaft pulley.
Section No. A.17
Removal of the timing chain cover.
Section No. A.l8
Section No. A.19
Removal of the crankshaft chain wheel.
Section No. A.20
Removal and replacement of the timing chain.
Section No. A.21
Removal of the chain tensioner.
Section No. A.22
Removal of a camshaft.
Removal of the rocker gear.
Section No. A.23
Removal of the valves.
Section No. A.24
Section No. A.25
Removal and refitting of the valve guides.
Section No. A.26
Decarbonising.
Section No. A.27
Grinding and testing the valves and their seatings.
Section No. A.28
Adjusting the fan belt.
Section No. A.29
To dismantle the fan assembly.
Section No. A.30
Removal and replacement of the engine and gearbox.
Section No. A.3 I
Removal of the clutch.
Removal of the flywheel.
Section No. A.32
Section No. A.33
Section No. A.34
Section No. A.35
Section No. A.36
Section No. A.37

Removal of the crankshaft.

Oil pressure.
Regrinding the crankshaft.
Locating troubles.

Piston sizes and cylinder bores.

A. I

A TIlE ENGINF~
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The four-cylinder, overhead valve engine is built in
unit construction with a four-speed gearbox.
It has a robust four-throw crankshaft carried in
three main bearings which are thick white-metallined bronze shells dowelled in the crankcase. The
rear bearing takes the end thrust, the bearing being
flanged at both ends.
The connecting rod big-ends are white-metalled
direct and the gudgeon pin is a floating fit in the little
end, being retained by circlips.
The pistons are of aluminium alloy and are fitted
with two compression and two oil control rings.
Each camshaft is supported in three bronze bushed

(2+ LITRE)

Unless the sump is to be removed and cleaned, it

should be allowed to drain for at least ten minutes
before the drain plug is replaced. When the sump
has been drained, approximately 14 pints (8 litres) of
oil are required to refill it.

bearings and is driven from the crankshaft by means

of an endless duplex roller chain.

The valves are operated from the camshafts via
hollow cylindrical tappets, short, light push-rods and

rockers. Tappet adjustment takes place at the rocker.

Cooling is by pump and fan-assisted thermo-syphon
action.

THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

An illustration of the lubricating system appears
on page A.26.
The engine oil is carried in the ribbed aluminium
sump below the crankcase and an oil level dipstick
is fitted to the left-hand side of the block. The combined oil filler and crankcase breather is also on the
left-hand side at the front of the engine.
The submerged, self-priming, gear-type oil pump is
bolted to the under face of the cylinder block and Is
driven by a skew gear on the inlet valve camshaft.
From the pump, oil is delivered by an external pipe
to a full-flow filter. From the filter another external
pipe leads to the crankcase side and thence via internal
oilways to the main bearings.
The big-end bearings receive oil by means of oliways
drilled in the crankshaft. Camshafts, timing chain and
rocker-shafts are supplied by means of internal oilways
drilled in the crankcase.
The oil pressure release valve is located just behind
the exhaust pipe.

Section A.l

Fig. Al.
The engine drain plug.

SectiolR A.2
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE

SUMP
To clean the sump, take out the drain plug and allow
the oil to drain away. The sump is located by sixteen
hexagon-headed bolts and spring washers inserted
from the underside of the flange. Removal of these
allows the sump to be withdrawn. Remove the tray
and thoroughly clean the sump with paraffin and a
clean brush.
When the sump has been dried, refit the tray and
drain plug.
No gasket is fitted on early models, but jointing
compound is used to make the joint. Make sure all
traces of the old compound are removed before
refitting the sump.
Later models make use of a gasket and a new one
should be used when replacing the sump on all models.

Section A.3
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE

DRAINING THE ENGINE SUMP

OIL PUMP

The sump on new and reconditioned engines must

be drained and refilled with new oil after the first
500 miles (800 km.) and then at intervals of every
~,000 miles (5000 km.). The hexagon-headed drain

Remove the sump as detailed in A.2 and then take

off the drive shaft top cap located near the top and
just behind the oil filter.
Take off the pump flange nuts and washers and then
tap the drive shaft down, when the whole pump
assembly,, complete with shaft and gear, will come
away from its spigot on the crankcase.

plug is situated on the right-hand side of the sump.

The oil should preferably be drained when the engine

is hot, in which condition the oil flows more readily.
A.2

TIlE ENGINE

(2~ LITRE)

Section A.4
DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLING

THE OIL PUMP

Remove the oil pump as detailed in A.3 and take off
the coarse mesh screen surrounding the pump body.
Next, take off the bottom cover and tap the shaft
downwards so that the gear is exposed. Tap the
driving gear down the shaft to a collar to give access
to the retaining split ring and extract the split ring
holding the driving gear in position. Pull off the gear
wheel and remove the Woodruff key, then pull out
the shaft.
Fig. A.3.
Checking the end float on the oil pump gears.

Ensure that the cover-plate and pump body faces

are perfectly clean before reassembling. They form a

metal-to-metal joint and no gasket or sealing com pound

must be used.
When refitting the cover-plate take special note of
the two dowel pins.
Fig. A.4.
Checking the diametrical clearance between the oil
pump gears and the oil pump body.

Fig. A.2.
The cap on the oil pump shaft.

The skew gear at the top of the driving shaft is keyed

and pinned in position. The bush is pinned in position.

The driven gear is bushed and runs on a spindle
which is pressed into the pump body.
To check the gear clearances, the pump body, gears
and shaft should be cleaned carefully and reassembled
before carrying out the following procedure
I. Measure the diametrical clearance between the
teeth of the gears and the pump body (see Fig.
A.4). This should not be more than 006 in.
(.15 mm.).
2. Check the end float on the gears by placing a
straight-edge across the face of the pump body,

and measuring the clearances with feelers, as

shown in the illustration (Fig. A.3). This should
not be more than .003 irr. (.08 mm.).
Fig. A.5.
Exploded view of the oil pump.

A.3

A
w
-J

~le~

z
0

I
A.4

A
ID
0.
0.

ID
C-o
(=

C
0

-o

-o

-o

C-,

-o

4-
to

C
Cd

C
Cd

t~

-0:2:2

~=

C-

0Cd

U.4
to to

x
ID
V
C
Cd

Cd

xdi

Cd

C
Cd

C
.

22E

4-

-,
Cd

.2

.2

C-

.2

4-

4-
ID

.C-5-~ill
.4

Cd

-o

-o

.2
U

.2
U

-o

.0

-~

-~

ID
U
0

-~

-oI

-oI

C-,

C-~
to

ID
Cd

C-,

bO
C
0

dO
~
0.

4-,

.-

C-

Cd

eli
.2

z
uJ
z

22

I-

oU

U
0

.4

Cd

C-o

Cd
.C
to
C-

e
4-~

-~

Cd

C
Cd

C.o

to

ID

ID
.2

-~

In

i~

to

,.~
C-

c~3

as

c4rW
In
In

C-

ID

U~

~
4-

o.

22~.o.0
4-,

(flIn

In

In

dO
C
dO
C

-~
to
C-

4-,

Cd
C.0

Cd
ID
C..

to
.4

~C

~C

0
0.

Cd

to
.4

4-C

Cd

iii,

.0
~

dO

to

Cd
ID
to

~
0
0.
to

~
0
C
I

0.
dO
C
ID
to

0
to
ID
.C

ID
~

Cfl

I-

4-n

In

In

0IN
0
50

A-

0
U
0
~1

0
U-

z
E

0~
U

~ e
o

Cd

L.

C
ID

C
0.

-~

x
o

>

~ g.~ 8 ~ 3

ID

.2

IN

ID

-~

~ZrI

~ -a
I

>2>>
I
~I
.0
>
.

~ a

(1>
IN

C-

.4~

IN

C4

t~..
IN

IN

a~

C-i

ID

..
-~
-~
~
.

~
U

t~-~

e~-4

~,

CeJ

~.
Ci~

In

~.

6
~

to

ao
m

Ce
m

-oCd

to

Cd

.0

Cd

tn

2
to

I
Ce

ID
-~

ID
.2

e
.C

o
Cd

>5

.0
ID

.2

to

0~

g~

.00.2

.2

uJ
-z

C-

Cd

a z

so
rn

R
m

ID
.2
o
0

CID
~C
.4

Cd
~

~~4i
Cd

C-

ID
>

ID~

Cd

IDI~~CI
0.
Cd
to
0.
ID
Cd

>

(J

HC0~Z

0
m

0
~1~

~-

IN
1-

m
W

Ul

I
uJ
0

z
~1
.

0
IuJ

C
C
0

Cd
ID

-ID
C-

C-

~.0

.4

o
0~

Cd
ID

~,
.4

0
0.

Cl)

ID
C

ID

>5

U
0~

e
~
I
.0

I
A
0.

.4

o
C..

.4
C

o
C-

ID

.
.4
4-

CU

Cd
.C

ID
C4--

ID
C-

4-

4-

(0

4-

4-

.4

.4

.4

.4

ID.4-

-~

Cd

Cd
.C

Cd
.C

-~

C-

C-

C-

to
C-

0
C-

C-

to
C-

ID
.2
~
0
C-

Ye

0~

-i

-
~

ID

I
A

Ce

ID
.2
~
0
C-

ID
.2
U
0

ID
.2
U
Cd
C-

.2
U
Cd

C-

C-

C-

rO

ID
.2
U
0
C-

2
U
Cd

Cd

C-

ID
.2
U
Cd

Cd

ID
.2
o

ID
.2

.2

to
.4

~
n

ID

C-

C~

ID
.2

ID
.2

.4
4-

!I
4-

ID
ID
.2.2
U
U
Cd
Cd
CC03

.~

Cd
C
In

cN

In

4-

to

.4
to

~
Cd

~
~

0.

~
-~

~
ID

.2

Cd
-~
to

L
ID
-~

22

ID
2
u

C-

~
ID

.
C0.
LC~

0
Cd
~

.2

.2

ID
.2

~
U

I.)

o
(N

IN

~3 ~

ii

~
ID
L.
U
vi

0
U

ID
>

ID

2
to

IN

A~5

A THE ENGINE.
Section A.5
THE OIL PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE
This is provided to prevent the building up of

excessive oil pressure when the oil is cold. It is located

on the left-hand side of the engine behind the exhaust
pipe.
To adjust the release pressure the locknut should be
slackened off and the grub screw turned in the appropriate direction. Screwing the grub screw inwards
increases the release pressure.
To dismantle the assembly the large nut must be

unscrewed and the grub screw removed. After that

take out the spring collar, spring and square plunger.
The actual valve seating is pressed into the crankcase,
but is renewable. The normal oil pressure is 30 lb./sq.in.
at 40 m.p.h. (2.11 kg./cm.5 at 64 k.p.h.).
The release valve seating is removable by tapping the
hole in the seating ~ in. B.S.F. and then using a bolt
and nut for withdrawal purposes.

Adjusting
screw

(2{ LITRE)

the clutch and flywheel as detailed in Sections A.31

and A.32, and the pistons and connecting rods as in
Section A.8.
New bearings are supplied with a fitting allowance
for line-boring or hand-scraping.

Section A.7
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE
CYLINDER HEAD
Drain the water from the cooling system by means
of the three taps provided one on the inlet manifold,
one on the cylinder block above the starter motor and
the other at the base of the radiator.
Take off the bonnet, as detailed under Section D.2,
and the radiator steady rods ; this will provide plenty
of clearance. Next remove the bonnet sides as detailed
under Section R.14.
Remove the air silencer, fume extractor pipe,
distributor head and ignition harness together with
the aluminium casting forming the air intake between
the two carburetters.
Detach the throttle control rod slow-running cable,
and the mixture control cable. Disconnect the fuel
line at the T-piece between the two float-chambers
and remove the carburetters. Do not disturb the
interconnecting rod between the two throttles.
Take off the inlet manifold, noting the two rubber
washers between the manifold and the cylinder head.
These washers should be renewed each time the
cylinder head is removed.
Disconnect the two water hose connections, one
at the thermostat and the other at the water pump

Fig. A.6.

The release valve assembly.

inlet. Then unscrew the water temperature control

unit.
Remove the fan and water pump belts (see Sections
A. 16 and A.28), and disconnect the exhaust pipe at the
manifold.

Section A.6
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF
THE MAIN BEARINGS
The crankshaft has three main bearings consisting of
thick bronze shells, white-metal lined. They cannot be
changed whilst the crankshaft is in position.
The top halves of all bearings are dowelled in position, as are the two lower halves of the front and
centre bearings.
To remove the bearings, take out the split pins and
remove the castellated nuts. Take off the bearing
caps and lift out the crankshaft, having previously
removed the timing chain as detailed in Section A.20,

A.6

Disconnect the rubber hose between the water

pump and the cross-flow pipe and then take off the
latter before removing the exhaust manifold.
Next, take out the sparking plugs and remove both
rocker covers.
Remove all the push-rods by seeing that each valve
is closed, and then depressing the spring with a lever,
at the same time moving the rocker to one side. Mark
the push-rods so that they can be replaced in the
positions from which they were removed.
Slacken each cylinder head holding-down nut a slight
amount and then remove them all. Lift off the head
and the gasket.
The cylinder head is now ready for decarbonisation
2nd valve grinding, as detailed in Sections A.26 and A.27.

(2{ LITRE)

TUE ENGINE

Replacement of the head is a reversal of the above

process, but the holding-down nuts must be tightened
down gradually in the sequence shown in the diagram
Fig. A.7.

~I2
K

Fig. A.7.
Sequence for
tightening the
cylinder head
stud nuts.

If a torque spanner is used, the correct tightening

figure is 900 in./lb. (10.35 m./kg.).
On some earlier cylinder heads the brass insert
in the upper transfer port of the hot spot is a loose
fit. The open side of the insert must always face the
front of the engine.
The baffle tube fitted across the head and inside the
lower port is renewable.

Section A.9
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE
PISTON RINGS
If no special piston ring remover is available, use
a piece of thin steel such as a suitably ground hacksaw
blade, or disused ~020in. (.50 mm.) feeler gauge.
Raise one end of the ring, and insert the steel strip
between ring and piston. Rotate the strip round the
piston, applying slight upward pressure to the raised
portion of the ring, until it rests on the land above
the ring groove. It can then be eased off the piston.
Do not remove the piston rings downwards over the
skirt of the piston.
Before fitting new piston rings the grooves in the
piston must be scraped clean of any carbon deposit,
taking care not to remove any metal, since play
between the ring and the groove reduces gas tightness
and produces a pumping action leading to excessive
oil consumption. There must be no play between the

rings and their grooves but they must nevertheless be

free to move without restriction.

Section A.II
REMOVAL OF PISTON AND
CONNECTING ROD
The big-end will not pass up the cylinder bore,
neither will the piston pass the crankshaft.
The procedure, when it is desired to remove the
piston and connecting rod assemblies, is as follows

Remove the cylinder head as detailed in Section A.7.

Drain the engine sump as explained in Section A.l.
Remove the sump as detailed in Section A.2.
Take out the split pins and remove the castellated
nuts from the big-end bearing bolts. Take off the
bearing cap, which is marked to line up with the
connecting rod. Remove the fixing bolts and push the

connecting rod up the cylinder bore until the gudgeon

pin isiust clear of the top face of the block.
Remove a circlip and tap out the gudgeon pin
with a drift, taking care to support the piston at the
same time, otherwise the connecting rod may be bent.
The piston can then be withdrawn upwards from the
cylinder, and the connecting rod downwards through
the crankcase.
When refitting the pistons to the bores, use some
form of piston ring compressor in order to prevent
ring damage.

Fig. A.8.
Checking the piston ring gap.

Important.New rings should be tested in the cylinder

bore in order to check for correct clearance at the ends.
To do this effectively the piston should be inserted
approximately I in. (2.5 cm.) down the cylinder and
each ring then pushed down on to the top of the piston and
held there in order to keep the ring square with the bore.
The end gap should be between ~008in. and .012 in.
(.2 mm. and ~3mm.).
A.7

~.

e~O

~0
C

4)
40
C
4

bO

EbO
C

C
44

4)
.0

~1

C
0

.4

~.
.4
4-4,

U .C

I-
4

U)

I-

4)

zLu
z

0
a-

4)

4-

-~
4,

4~

.0

-~

,~

2
4
u

.~
4

.4

4)

4)

4,
4.
4

-~

~ ~

.4
4)

.2

.E
4

4b

.~

-o
4
0.

4-

~
4)
40.

4,
4
EU
~1
o
!.

4-
4,

~i:~-c
.~
E4,

.:

4~

-5

~-~

.E

24:
4,
4)

-~

0.

2
4

~o

~
2

4)
0.

~
~

4-

4,

4-

.0

E~4
-~

4)

4,
.4
4)

.2
.~

40

4)

4-

.2

.2

E~bo

!.

44,
4.4U.0

C~I.2
~
4

.2

bO

4-

4-

4,
~

~
0
4

0
4

4
C
4
-~

~
~

~
4

4
C
U

.2
4

.24

.2

b5

4)

40

.j~

U
4

-~

>

06
Z4n
4,

4,

U~

U~

4t)

41)

41)

-~

0.

~.C.2

4,

1
0

.~

-~

4)

.C

40

40

0~

.~

.~
-~

4)

wC

0~

U
(1)

0
0

N.
0

0)
0

.~

.4
~

-
U
40

.2
.~

.2
E
4
.4
4)

4)

75

t~

4-

4)

-~

0.

.4

4-

~
4-C,,,
-~
.4
U

4f)

4-

0
.0

.4
4)

4.2
4U
.0
4

4)

.0

4ILl

.~
4
4.

4)
4U
4,

.2

4)

.~

Q.4

.2
~

-
40
4)

.2
~

0
0

0c
N.
N.

00

N.

-~

N.

N.

U
~1
Lu
U)
U)
0

.0

0
0.0
C
0

4.

U)

I-

0.

4-

bO
4-
U

4)
C
C

4)
=

4.

U.

4.4

4-

44
4-.
4
.C

4-
44
-C

4-.

44-

4
4)
4-

4~

U
~

4
-C

0.

C
0

0.
C

4
.C
4,

4
-~
4,

4
.C
4,

C
44

C
4

C
4

4,

4-

4(4.4.4.4
U
U
4,

4,

.4

.4

4-

4
.2

~0
C
4)
0

4)

~3

4:

~.

40

WY

4)4,

40
C

c-~

m
mm

4-

.C
4,

u,
m

4,

4,

4,

4
.C

4,

~
4-

4,
~
~

.~I
4
T

iIiIii4,4,g~0j
.C
.C
.C
.C
.C

t3

4-

4-

A
44
4,

0.

4.

<0

c4

rr

0
.0

4)
4~
C
4)

~
44
.4

0.
~
4
.C
~
.2

I-

>-~
~

C
0

A
.4

4,

4,

o
W

-~

9I

2.C

~
~

4,

-~

.0

-~
4,
.2
C

~
4-

4.C

.4
-~

4
U

-4-

4,
~

4,

E-~

4)

4-4-.0
.~
4-

>..

.C

.C

R
1

2
4

4040

~
2

.2
U

U)

~
c~4

0
el

0
m

mm

~-

.d

r-

e-Jr.~

.qu~

cd
~

a.

4)
4

U)

z
U

I)l.

uJ

0.
4

bO
C
~

-4-

U 4
4,.C
4) 44
~.2
C
4
4U

4)
.0

2
-~

~
.2

~
t

44

4
4)
.0

4
4--

.E4-

.
4-

~
4)
.0

4
.C
4,

.2
C
4

0.
4

0.

4
U

.C
40

bO
~
0
4.

4)
4-
4
0.

4
.C
4,
.2
C
4
4U

40

4.

2
.C
4,

.2

40
C
4
~
.0

4.
4-

4
.C
4,
.2
C

ti0~
C

4~4

~0.
4)4,04)

40
4-

4)
.0
4.
~-

4
.C

.2.

0.

~
C

0.
4
U

4)
.C
4,
4
~

4-

4
4)

40
C

4-

.0

4)
.0

.4

.~

.2

4
.C

.C
4,
.2
C
4

2.4

4
.4
4

4,

40
C
C

4
~
.4-

o
0

-~

>4

4)

.4

4
.C
4,
.2
C

0.

4,

4-

.2
C

0
0.
4-

.2
4

.C

4-

C
4

.2
C

>-~

4~=

Riley I{ and 2{ Litre.

-~

~-;

Issue 2 (E) 785384/53

el

rn

41)

.2
C
4
4-

4-

4,

A.0

.4

.2
C

4,

.2
C
4
4-

.2
C
4
4-

~
C
-
.4

C
C
0

e4

r-J

r-4

0.~

z.u

r4

(-4

4-

40

N.

0
.4
4-4-

A
_
~

4,

~ u o ~ u ~
(-4

4-C

4
4UUUUU

4-I

4-

b
C
.2

4,

4)

44,j

4)

.2
U

4-

4)

.4

4,

.2

~0
C
4)

4)
4-

4
C
0

A.9

A THE

(2-b LITRE)

ENGINE

Section A.1O

Section

FITTING THE GUDGEON PINS AND

REASSEMBLING THE PISTON AND
CONNECTING ROD
The piston and connecting rod are replaced by
partly inserting the piston in the cylinder from the
top and introducing the connecting rod upwards
from the crankcase. The two are then coupled
together by the gudgeon pin.
The gudgeon pin is a push fit in the little-end and
a light drive fit in the piston at room temperauire.
Gudgeon pins ~002in. oversize (Part No. 166516) are
available and may be fitted to take up slack in the
small end bushes or pistons, which must of course
be reamed out to suit. The gudgeon pin circlips
should be fitted with a special pair of peg-nosed pliers.
Take care when tapping the gudgeon pin into
position in the piston to support the piston adequately
so as not to damage it or the connecting rod.

REMOVAL OF THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD

Drain the cooling system and remove the cooling
water inlet pipe. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the
manifold, undo the retaining nuts, and then take off
the manifold.

Section A.11

A.13

Section A.14
REMOVAL AND DISMANTLING OF THE
WATER PUMP
To detach the pump, the dynamo and fan belts must
be removed by slackening back both adjustments.
See Section A.28 for the fan and Section A.16 for the
dynamo.
It is not necessary to remove the pump body from
the cylinder head because the bearing housing complete with pulley and impeller may be taken out by
removing four set screws and washers. Note that one
screw breaks into the waterway, and when refitting,
a copper washer is necessary under the screw head.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE

CARBURETTERS
Detach the forward end of the bonnet release rod
and then take off the bonnet side by undoing the nut
and bolt at the forward end and the two screws at the
rear. See Section R.14.
Take off the ignition harness and remove the air
silencer. Remove the cast aluminium air intake
between the carburetters. The forward end is held
by set screws, the rear by nuts and studs.
Disconnect the fuel line at the T-piece between the
float-chambers and detach the rich mixture control
cable from both carburetters.
Remove the throttle control rod from the rear
carburetter and undo the set screws holding the hand
throttle cable at the quadrant. Undo the four nuts
and take off the carburetters.

Section A.12
REMOVAL OF THE INLET MANIFOLD
Remove the carburetters as detailed in Section A.l I.
Drain the cooling system by means of the three
drain taps (see Section A.7).
Undo the six nuts holding the manifold in position
and then withdraw the casting over the studs.
Renew the two rubber sealing washers, and when
replacing make quite sure the open end of the brass
ferrule in the cylinder head is pointing forward.

A. 10

Fig. A.9.
The water pump partially dismantled.

If the pump body and thermostat are separated,

note the rubber ring and adaptor between the thermostat housing and the pump body which forms the bypass port. The rubber ring, between the water outlet
elbow and the cylinder head itself, should also be
noted. These rubber rings must be in good condition
and should be renewed if any doubt exists as to their
serviceability.
Riley 1+ and 2~ Litre. Issue 2 (E) 785384/53

TIlE ENGINE

(2+ LITRE)

To dismantle the pump, take off the brass Simmonds

nut holding the impeller, draw off the impeller and
extract the Woodruff key.
Lift off the spring, the collar, the rubber seal and
the carbon disc and then take out the driving peg for
the carbon disc. If the rubber seal is at all swollen it
must be renewed, otherwise water circulation may
be impeded and the engine tend to overheat.
Next lift off the sealing plate and remove the
Simmonds nut at the other end of the shaft. Draw off
the driving pulley, which is held by a Woodruff key.
There is a felt washer behind the pulley which must
be taken off if it remains on the pump body before
the shaft is pressect out towards the rear of the pump.
The shaft will come out with the rear lipped oil seal
and packing ring, together with the ball bearings,
inner distance tube and the inner race and rollers of
the front bearing. The outer race of the front bearing

Section A.15
SETTING THE TAPPETS
Remove the ignition harness and the small interconnecting breather pipe from the rocker covers.
Take off the rocker covers and this will expose the
rockers and their adjusters.
The tappets are set by slackening back the locknut
and screwing the ball-ended adjuster in or out as
required. Set the clearance to .003 in. (.08 mm.) inlet
and .004 in. (.10 mm.) exhaust with the engine hot.

Fig. A.lO.
This is a section of the water pump, whilst inset shows
the modification to the water seal on later pumps.

is pressed into the housing from the rear. The distancepiece between the outer races can be lifted out. If it
is necessary to remove the outer race of the front
bearing this can be accomplished by levering it out
with a thin screwdriver blade.
When reassembling the bearing and pulley assembly
to its housing, note that the lower set screw on the
left-hand side (facing forward) has a copper washer,
because this hole breaks into a water passage.

Section A.16
REMOVAL OF THE DYNAMO BELT
Remove the fan belt by releasing the fan spindle
clamp bolt and moving the spindle towards the pump
pulley, then slacken the dynamo belt by releasing the
three dynamo attachment bolts and moving the
dynamo towards the engine.
Rotate the fan pulley to its lowest position by

A. II

A
~j.

.3

A. 12

~lc1

--

iii

io~dijitiIIi

iii.
jial
iii

I:

ill

pd

zi
U

if
z

Ii

jj,1id111;1111U11

I
I

III
S

I
I
h1jjIU
V

L~

.4.1

ad

IdlitLill

ad

S ~

jL[L11

A.13

(24 LITRE)

THE ENGINF

Also, between the engine mounting and the dynamo

there is a countersunk screw.
There is a Simmonds nut, a steel washer and a cork
disc in the centre of the cover which must be removed.
The cover can then be lifted off and there is no gasket
at this joint.
Note the position of the oil return ring and the oil
thrower ; the latter has the dished portion towards
the engine.

Section A.19
REMOVAL OF THE CRANKSHAFT CHAIN
WHEEL
Remove the dynamo belt, crankshaft puijey and
timing cover as indicated in Sections A.16 to A.18.
Remove the timing chain as explained in Section A.20
and draw off the wheel, which is on a parallel shaft with
a Woodruff key, using a suitable extractor, ST.58, to
avoid damage.

Section A.20
Fig. A.I I.
The method of removing the dynamo belt by undoing
bolts A and B.

slackening the pinch bolt and using a small bar in the

holes provided.
To save jacking up the engine, remove one engine
mounting bolt at a time on the dynamo side of the
engine. This will allow the belt to slip past the mounting. Note that one bolt carries the dynamo steady
arm and the other a distance-piece.

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE

TIMING CHAIN
Take off the timing cover and crankshaft puliey.
Then wedge the tensioner wheel in its extreme

Section A.17
REMOVAL OF THE CRANKSHAFT
PULLEY
Take out the bolt through the pulley and its fixing
nut. Unscrew the nut, which has a right-hand thread,
and withdraw the pulley, which is on a parallel shaft
with a Woodruff key.

Section A.18
REMOVAL OF THE TIMING CHAIN COVER
Remove the dynamo belt and crankshaft pulley as
indicated in Sections A.16 and A.17.
There are fifteen nuts and spring washers holding
the timing cover to the block and in addition there is
one set screw at the bottom which secures the sump.
A.14

Fig. A.12.
This illustration shows the tensioner wedge and the camshaft
bush which is partially withdrawn from the crankcase.

(2+ LITRE)

position, with the ratchets removed, so that the chain

falls slack. Undo the lock washer and set screw
holding one of the camshaft chain wheels and then
withdraw the wheel. The chain may then be lifted off.
Although the chain wheels are marked for timing, it
is a wise plan to polish two of the chain links to
correspond with marks scribed on each chain wheel
this will considerably help chain refitting. If a new
chain is to be used, mark the old one and use it as
a guide for the new.
Before marking the old chain, first make sure it is
not already marked, to avoid confusion. Remember
that the marked chain links only coincide with the
marked teeth of the chain wheels once in every
104 revolutions of the crankshaft.

-THE ENGINE
Section A.22
REMOVAL OF THE CAMSHAFTS
Take off the engine pulley, timing cover and timing
chain as described under Sections A.16, A.18, and A.20.
Remove the cylinder head as indicated in Section A.7.
Lift out the tappets from the top, making sure that
each is marked for subsequent reassembly in the same
position.
Remove the camshaft chain wheels as indicated in
Section A.20.
With the chain wheels removed, undo the set
screws which hold the camshaft and front bearing
assembly to the block (see Fig. A.12). The camshaft
is then ready for removal. In the case of the exhaust
camshaft the distributor must first be removed (see
Section C.7).

Section A.23
REMOVAL OF THE ROCKER GEAR

Fig. A.13.
The setting ofthe crankshaft and camshafts for correct valve
timing. Note the keyway on the crankshaft, the timing marks
on the camshaft sprockets and the marked chain links.

Section A.21
REMOVAL OF THE CHAIN TENSIONER
Remove the dynamo belt, crankshaft pulley and
timing cover as explained in Sections A.16 to A.18.
Take off the ratchet portion of the tensioner and
withdraw the wheel, taking care not to lose the
spring. The square stub upon which the wheel slides
is held to the cylinder block by countersunk screws.
One of the ratchet plates on the adjuster is provided with slotted holes so that when the tension of
the timing chain is set the plungers are located so
that while one is at the bottom of the ratchet tooth
the other rests on the top of a tooth on the other
plate. Thus the slightest amount of wear in the chain
will be taken up immediately.

Take off the ignition harness and remove -the

breather pipe and rocker covers.
Depress each valve in turn, move the rocker aside
and extract the push-rods. Undo all the securing nuts
for the rocker pedestals and lift the assembly away
com plete.
The rockers are bushed and of two types, left-hand
and right-hand. Each rocker-shaft is in four sections
carried in five pedestals, the sections being located
by set screws on the second and fourth pedestals, the
front and rear of which are not Interchangeable with
each other or side for side. They are drilled for rocker
lubrication, the oil passing up a hollow stud. Note that
flats are machined on the rocker-shafts. These flats
must face towards the valves.

Section A.24
REMOVAL OF THE VALVES
The valve springs are retained in position on the
valves by means of a collar and two split collets.

Fig. A.14.
Valve spring compressor.

A.15

(2+ LITRE)

THE ENGINE
Support the head of the valve inside the combustion
chamber, apply a suitable compressor to compress the
spring and cap, and the collets may be removed.
The valve springs are not of constant pitch and must be

refitted with the close-coiled end at the bottom.

Section A.25
REMOVAL AND REFITTING OF THE
VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are interchangeable and quite
plain, without any shoulder. They may be tapped out
with a drift, and when fitting a replacement guide the
new one should be pressed in until the top is j~ in.
(20.64 mm.) above the spring seat for both inlet and
exhaust. The extra length of the exhaust valve guide
should project into the valve port.

Fig. A.16.
Removing the carbon.

small abrasive particles will undoubtedly find their

way into the cylinder bores.

A ring of carbon should be left on the periphery of
the piston crowns by placing a piston ring on the top,
and the carbon round the top of the cylinder bores
should also be retained intact.
Remove all traces of dust by means of compressed
air and then clean well with paraffin. Always use a
new cylinder head gasket after decarbonising.

Section A.27
GRINDING AND TESTING THE VALVES
AND THEIR SEATINGS

Fig. A.15.
A special tool may be made for fitting the valve guides
correctly.

Section A.26

Remove the valves and springs as detailed in

Section A.24.
Clean each valve carefully and examine the seating
for signs of pitting. If pitting is apparent then the valve
must be refaced. The same applies to the valve seats
and great care must be taken not to remove too much
metal.

DECARBONISING
Remove the cylinder head as explained in Section
A.7.
Take out the valves as indicated in Section A.24.

Lift off the cylinder head gasket, and plug all water
holes and the tappet guides with cloth plugs.
Scrape the carbon off the piston crowns, cylinder
heads and inlet and exhaust ports. Take care that the
pistons are not scratched by the use of a sharp tool.
It is also advisable to polish the combustion chambers

with emery cloth, but great care must be taken to

clean away all traces of abrasive dust.
Never use emery cloth on the piston tops because
A.16

Fig. A.17.
The numbering of the valves is shown in this illustration.

(2{ LITRE)

THE

Each valve must be replaced in the same port from

which it was removed, and when grinding in the faces
a fine or medium grade carborundum paste should
be used.
Place a light coil spring under the head of the valve
and use a suction-type grinding tool to impart a
reciprocating motion to the valve.
An even matt finish is desirable, and if the seat is too
wide it should be reduced to approximately 080 in.
(2 mm.) by means of a
cutter.
After having ground in each valve, the ports,
450

seatings and valve itself should be carefully cleaned

with paraffin and then dried, taking care that no trace
of grinding paste finds its way into the valve guides.

ENGINE

The outer race of the front bearings stays in the

hub and is prevented from moving towards the front
end by means of a distance tube between this outer
race and the fan end plate.
The locking ring at the rear end carries an oil seal.
When reassembling take care that the rollers of the
front bearing enter the outer race squarely, otherwise
assembly will not be possible.

Section A.30
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF
THE ENGINE AND GEARBOX
Disconnect the battery.

Drain the cooling system as described in Section

D.l.

Section A.28
ADJUSTING THE FAN BELT
The fan belt tension is altered by slackening back the

fan spindle pinch bolt and rotating the fan hub assembly
completely round in the engine mounting bracket
by means of a bar inserted in the holes on the hub.

#/

Remove the bonnet tops (Section D.2) and sides as

explained under Section R.l-4.
Disconnect the water temperature unit at the
thermostat and remove the radiator stays.
Ren~ove the radiator and shell as explained under
Section D.2.
Disconnect the cable from the coil to the distributor
and remove the coil from the frame.
Remove the wire stay between the frame and
forward engine mounting.

Fig A.18.
The fan belt adiustment.

Section A 29
TO DISMANTLE THE FAN ASSEMBLY
Undo the pinch bolt holding the fan hub assembly
to the engine mounting bracket and remove the

assembly complete.
Remove the fan blades.
Unscrew the lock-ring at the rear end and tap out
the shaft complete with rear bearing, distance tube
and the front bearing.

Fig. A.19.
Method of removing the mounting.

Take off the air filter and carburetters as explained

in Section A.l I. Take off the cables to the dynamo
and starter motor and disconnect the exhaust pipe
at the manifold. Then remove the dipstick.
Slacken the dynamo adjusting bolts and push the
instrument inwards and place a single rope sling
around the middle of the engine. Then take off the
mounting plate on the front of the engine and the
bracket shown in Fig. A.19.
A. 17

A.

0
0

0
0

w
I-J

~:

;o

0.

~ ~799~~yLP

411W

z
.0

A. 18

A
4)
U
GLL

4)

4)
0.
0.
0
U

40
A

.0

Lu
U

-J

-2(4

.0

4)
0.

4)
40

-~--~

44

-~

00
C
C
4
4
.0.0

_
CC

44

44

zru~

44

4)

03

0
4)

0 CC
.0

CC

CC

CC

>4

CC

0
a0

m
N

N.

40

40

4)4)

--

4)4)

.0

4-

A
0 .0

.2 CI

~0
C
4

~
~

C
0

.0

CC

40
C

E 44o
4

0
4-

C
40

4)4)44-
4
4
4
4)

40
C

.0

.2

0.2.
~

4-4)U~~44~
U
~
C

.2400.
C

.0

.2

~0

0.

44

~
-~
4
I.-L~U~ZZ

.0

~0
~

4403

U
44
4

m~Lf)*0~O

(-4

0.

(4

Os

44

a-

03
.~

.~

.044
4)
40.
0.

U)

4)
~C~C

Lu

z
z
Lu

03

~
44

44

liIi

4)4)4444
.
0. ~

r-

4-44.0
444-

4)

44
4

4)

eI

4)444
.2 .2
C
44-

.~44

44
4

C
4)

0
.0

444)4)
.C .C

z
Lu
z

4)
CC

03=

U)

I-

4-

>

0
.0

ii~-.~ ~
4) 44
C
.2 ~ ~ CC

4.
44)4)
0. 0. 00
0. 0. .0 .0

004)4

E
4

>4
0

CC

4
.0

~
~0

44)

4)

4)
.2
U

~ .2

~4)4)
>
>
0.00
U U
40
AC
4040

>
-~

~
4)

040
.0 ~

40.2-4)0.
C
0.0.

.~

~2

.C

.~

r~

=
004 =

.~

4
~0

~.2 ~

4444~

=
40.2

0.~
L
L4-

ii

.2

(j)

0.

0
0.
0
0.
4
U
~
>
COO
44
4)40
0
2
U ~C 4

~0
~

0.0.~

2E

1.2

~
>

40

~
~

_
~0
4

0
.2
~

T ~ I
C

oi
E ~4
400

.0
4C

~~

~
.~
L

t4
~

~
~

.244

~ .2 ~

.J

~
~

~44C

2-

~o>4
>4Er

1 ~
~

U44
4)
.0.2

.~

ii>~~E
1

44-

~44

0u

4-0
0.
o2
0.
cL
E

C
4-C
440
403
.C

4-

C
40

.20.0.2~

l~l~40

.2

4)

40~
~

C.2
4)
U

o 0 ~ o~~44
.2~
0. 4-!.2
~

C.
.
90Q0
4)

~
0.
~~C

i~ j~ .2j~
0.

40

040

~0

4)4)4)4)

~
C

Lu
U)

4
_

~O.0

4li

~o. _
~~aoao

-~-

4-

(C
.0 0

.0

U
Ml

I-

44
C

4;

4.2

0.

4
CO

&
4

Ml

0
C

C
0

U
~

4-

-~

40
C

40A~
C

C>

4)
U
4
43>44-4~
~
4)4)4

~0

.2

~.2 4

4;

>

.0

00

o-~

ci

.03

.0
403>

C.~ 4-0.4)2
440.0.

0.0.2

~0

40
C

40.C

II
U

44)

E!V~

4-

44

e2a

4-

4~~

.2
C
4

44

fj)

22

,.

l.~

~
>~3.
.~3

4)
4)4-....

4-

>

>

~
~15

~
~

~.0

~O

2 ~

~.

-g -g
c.~

2 ~

(.4

0.

0.0(n

ci

cI

c--I

44

44.0
~

~0 ~

cn~U>
(~-4

(-4

c-4

oo.

c--I c--I m

>

~U

I
A. 19

(2+ LITRE)

THE EN1~lW
Unscrew the union on the oil pressure gauge line
and uncouple the throttle control rod at the bell
crank on the side of the block.
Slide both front seats right back and remove them
from the car. Then remove the carpets and unscrew
the knob on the gear lever.
Remove the gearbox cowl by sliding back the
forward catches and unscrewing the small plate at the
rear. Then take up the floorboards.
Disconnect the front end of the intermediate drive
shaft and unscrew the reversing light cables from the
switch unit on top of the gearbox. Remove the
speedometer drive gear from the gearbox and undo
the nut on the wire stay.

clutch cover-plate to the flywheel. The screws should

be undone evenly a turn at a time and diagonally
to prevent the spring pressure straining the clutch
cover-plate.
7)~

Fig. A.21.
The method of lining up the clutch when refitting it to
the flywheel.

Section A.32

Fig. A.20.
The method of disconnecting the intermediate shaft.

Extract the pin on the clutch cross-shaft universal

joint and then remove the gear lever complete by
lifting out the spring ring in the gear lever ball housing
and the two set screws at either side. When lifting
the lever out, take care not to lose the small springloaded ball in the crank.
Take out the rear mounting bolts under the gearbox
and then the complete gearbox and engine unit may
be tilted downwards and drawn out to the front.
Assembly is a reversal of this process, but note that
the thick rubber buffers under the radiator must be
above the mounting and the thin ones below. Tighten
the. Simmonds nuts sufficiently to just nip the rubber.
Tighten the unit mounting bolts fully and seethatthe
steady cables at the front and rear are just in tension.

REMOVAL OF THE FLYWHEEL

Take off the gearbox as explained in Section F.l.
Detach the clutch as in Section A.31.
Bend back the locking tabs and unscrew the eight
fitted bolts. The flywheel, complete with cast-iron
friction face, may then be either drawn or tapped off
its spigot on the crankshaft.

Section A.31
REMOVAL OF THE CLUTCH
Take off the gearbox as described in Section F.l.
Slacken back the retaining screws holding the
A.20

Fig. A.22.
The flywheel run-out should not exceed .004 in. (.1 mm.).

THE

(2+ LITRE)

Section A.33
REMOVAL OF THE CRANKSHAFT
Take out the engine unit as described in Section
A.30.
Drain and remove the sump as indicated in Sections
A.l and A.2.
Take off the gearbox. (See Section F. I.)
Remove the clutch and flywheel as described in
Sections A.3 I and A.32.
Disconnect the connecting rods from the crankshaft. (See Section A.8.)
Remove the crankshaft pulley. (See Section A.17.)
Take off the timing chain cover (Section A.18) and
remove the timing chain (Section A.20).
Take out the split pins from the main bearing cap
nuts and undo the nuts.

ENGINE

the gauge, whilst approximately 12 lb./sq. in. (.9 kg.!

cm.2) should be shown when the engine is idling.
Should there be a noticeable lack of pressure, the
following points should be checked over
I. That there is a good supply of the correct grade
of oil in the engine sump.
2. That the pump gears are in order and have the
correct clearances. (See Section A.4.)
3. That the gauze oil pump filter is clean and not
choked with sludge.
4. That the bearings on the delivery side to which
oil is fed under pressure have the correct
working clearances. Should the bearings be
worn and the clearances excessive, the oil will
escape more readily from the sides of the
bearings, particularly when the oil is warm
and fluid. This will cause a drop in the pressure
recorded on the gauge, as compared with that
shown when the bearings are in good order.
Note..The automatic release valve deals with any
excessive oil pressure when the engine and oil are cold.
Cold running and unnecessary use of the mixture
control are often the cause of serious oil dilution by fuel,
and of a consequent drop in pressure.
New engines with new oil will produce considerably
higher pressure readings than those given.
Particular attention is called to the recommended
change of oil every 3,000 miles (5000 km.). This is a
most important factor in attaining long and trouble-free
service from the engine.

Section A.35

Fig. A.23.
The split sealing plate.

Lift off the bearing caps, noting that they are

marked for subsequent correct assembly, and detach
the split sealing plate at the rear. This is held by two
long screws with tapered heads.
Lift out the crankshaft.

Section A.34
OIL PRESSURE
Under normal running conditions the oil pressure
should not drop below 40 lb./sq. in. (2.8 kg./cm.2) on
Riley 1+ and 2~ Litre, Issue 2 (E) 78538.4/53

REGRINDING THE CRANKSHAFT

Crankshafts are provided either
.020 in.
(.50 mm.) or ~040 in. (1.1 mm.) undersize on
the main bearings with standard size big-ends and
~020 in. (.50 mm.) or .040 in. (1.1 mm.)
undersize on the main bearings with either .020 in.
(.50 mm.) or ~040 in. (1.1 mm.) undersize bigend bearing journals.

Section A.36
LOCATING TROUBLES
Engine will not start
A. If the starter will not turn the engine, check the
following
I. Battery discharged, and/or defective.
2. Disconnected or broken leads.
3. Faulty starter switch.
4. Faulty starter motor.
5. Starter cables shorting to earth.
A.2 I

A
&
E
~44

0.

0.0.
4

4-

....

03
C

uJ

___

40
~.

S
03

~
40

~-~4-

~
E ~ 0. U 0.
~ 0.~I~

r.4

cLcOUc~

40
C

C
4

C
o

4-C
0303

~-

4- 4-

03

0.0.~

4-4-.
4
4 4-

4040g~

0.0.

EE0.EE~
0.0. ~

0.0. ~
0.

03 03 C ~

03

0~~
z
0
40
C

-a

C
0

4-

03

.C.C

0.

E0.0.0.

Ed.~E~E
~ E

0.

0.0.0.

0
~
Ov~L~

C,

A.22

Riley l{ and 2+ Litre.

Issue 2 (E) 785384/53

(2+ LITRE)

6.

B.

C.

THE ENGINE

Battery terminals badly corroded or battery

leads loose.

If starter turns engine very slowly, check

I. Partly discharged battery.
2. Loose terminals or connections.
3. Dirty or corroded connections.
4. Faulty insulation on starter cables.
5. Tightness in engine.
6. Faulty starter brushes.
If starter turns engine smartly, but it will not fire,
check
I. Plugs not sparking.
2. Spark at the coil. If the coil gives a good
spark, check
(a) Gaps in plugs too wide or too close.
(b) Plugs oiled up.
(c) Plug insulators damaged, or excessively
dirty.
3. If poor spark at coil, check
(a) Low-tension or high-tension leads from
coil to distributor loose or corroded.
(b) Distributor points dirty, worn or out of
adjustment.
(c) Carbon brush not making contact.
(d) Rotor cracked.
(e) Faulty condenser (substitute a condenser
known to be in order).
(f) Faulty coil (substitute a coil known to
be in order).
4. Check the carburetters for fuel supply. If no
fuel in the float-chambers, check
(a) Functioning of the fuel pump.
(b) Air leak in pipe line, indicated by rapid
action of the pump.
(c) Float-chamber needles sticking.
5. If fuel is reaching the float-chambers, check
(a) For choked jets.
(b) Water in the fuel.
(c) Dirt in the carburetters.
(d) Air leak in induction system.
(e) Check adjustment of carbu retter controls.

If engine starts, but runs erratically

A. Check the following ignition points
I. Loose high-tension leads to sparking plugs.
2. Incorrect setting of plug points.
3. Damaged plug or moisture on plugs.
4. Loose connection on battery or in ignition
circuit.
5. Faulty high-tension leads.
6. Battery charge low.

7.
8.
9.
10.

Battery connections faulty.

Defective contact breaker.
Defective distributor.
Faulty condenser.

B.

Check the following carburetter points

I. Water in float-chambers.
2. Choked filters in carburetters or fuel pump,
indicated by slow pumping of fuel pump.
3. Action of fuel pump. Suspect if sluggish.
4. Jet partially choked.
5. Carburetter or carburetters set too rich,
indicated by sooty exhaust.
6. Vents on fuel tank filler caps choked.
7. Obstruction in fuel feed pipe.
8. Air leak into induction system.

C.

Check the following mechanical points

I. Sticking valves.
2. Incorrect valve clearance.
3. Burnt or broken valves.
4. Incorrect valve timing.
5. Incorrect ignition timing.
6. Broken or weak valve spring.
7. Valve guides worn, causing air leaks.
8. Cylinder head gasket for leaks.
9. Back pressure due to damaged exhaust
system.

lf engine starts and stops

A. Check the following ignition points
I. Loose low-tension leads.
2. Loose distributor clamp screw.
3. Faulty ignition switch contact.
B.

Check the following carburetter points

I. Incorrect setting of carburetter controls.
2. Blocked fuel pipe.
3. Water in float-chambers.
4. Sticking.needle valve.
5. Fuel pump failing to function regularly.
6. Air leak into fuel line.
7. Fuel level low in tank.

If engine will not idle or run slowly

A. Check the following carburetter points
I. Throttle stop screws incorrectly set.
2. Hand throttle control requires adjustment.
3. Throttle controls incorrectly set.
4. Weak mixture or over-rich mixture.
5. Faulty functioning of fuel pump.
A.23

TIlE ENGINE
B.

Check the following mechanical points

I. Sticking valves.
2. Incorrect valve tappet clearance.
3. Air leak in induction system.
4. Burnt or broken valves, indicated by loss of
compression.
5. Broken valve spring.
6. Damaged cylinder head or gasket.

C.

Check the following ignition points

I. Loose high-tension leads.
2. Incorrect setting of plug points.
3. Damaged plugs or moisture on plugs.
4. Loose connections on battery or in ignition
5. Faulty high-tension leads.
[circuit.
6. Battery charge low.
7. Battery connections faulty.
8. Defective contact breaker, or burnt points.
9. Defective distributor.
10. Defective condenser.

Engine fails to gi.ve full power

A. Check the following carburetter points
I. Faulty or insufficient fuel supply.
2. Air leaks in induction pipe or fuel pipe.
3. Partly choked jet or jets.
B.

C.

Check the following mechanical points

I. Incorrect valve tappet clearance.
2. Burnt valve or badly seating valve.
3. ~Cylinderhead stud nuts not tight.
4. Damaged cylinder head gasket.
5. Valve timing incorrect.
6. Broken or weak valve spring.
7. Excessive carbon deposit.
8. Excessively worn pistons and cylinders.
Check the following ignition points
I. Ignition retarded too far.
2. High-tension leads shorting, or loose.
3. Dirty sparking plugs.
4. Sparking plug points incorrectly set.
5. Contact breaker points incorrectly set.
6. Contact breaker points pitted.
7. Faulty coil.
8. Faulty condenser.
9. Low-tension connection or leads faulty.
JO. Battery run down or faulty.

Engine knocks
A. Check the following
I. Ignition timing too far advanced.
A.24

(2+ LITRE)

2. Excessive carbon deposit.

3. Fuel unsuitable or mixture weak.
4. Loose or worn bearings or pistons.
5. Defective or unsuitable plugs.
6. Valve timing incorrect or tappet clearance
incorrect.

Engine backfires
A. Check the following ignition points
I. High-tension cables defective or connections
loose.
2. High-tension leads incorrectly fitted.
3. Low-tension wiring defective or connections
loose.
4. Switch contact faulty.
5. Distributor gap incorrect or points pitted or
dirty.
6. Contact breaker arm sticking or defective.
7. Distributor cover cracked or loose.
8. Distributor not correctly timed.
9. Rotor carbon brush pick-up defective or
worn.
10. Clearance between rotor arm and distributor
studs excessive.
II. Coil defective or wet.
12. Defective condenser.
13. Plugs overheated, unsuitable, or points incorrectly set.

B.

Check the following carburation points

I. Jets choked or restricted.
2. Jets incorrectly set, causing weak mixture.
3. Water in fuel.
4. Choked fuel filters.
5. Inlet manifold joint leaking, or manifold
cracked.
6. Air cleaner passages blocked.
7. Engine running temperature too cold.
8. Throttle not closing completely (indicated by
engine backfiring when proceeding downhill
with throttle shut).

C.

Check the following mechanical points

I. Valve timing incorrect.
2. Valve tappet clearance incorrectly set.
3. Valve sticking.
4. Valve seats pitted or faulty..
5. Valve spring weak or broken.
6. Valve guides excessively worn, causing air
leaks.
7. Excessive carbon deposit.

(2+ LITRE)

TIIF
Standard

Section A.37
PISTON SIZES AND CYLINDER BORES
It is necessary to fit new pistons by selective
assembly, and to facilitate this the pistons are marked
on their crowns with identification figures which must
correspond with those of the cylinders to which they
are fitted.
The actual bore dimensions of each cylinder are
stamped on the top face of the cylinder block on the
front right-hand corner by the appropriate symbol
S.T.D., indicating that the cylinder bore is of
standard diameter, i.e. possesses an actual diameter
of 3~l693 in. (80.5 mm.).
+0005, indicating that the cylinder bore is oversize
to the extent of -i-.0005 in., and thus possesses an
actual dimension of 3.1698 in. (80.5125 mm.).
+~00l, indicating that the cylinder bore is oversize
to the extent of -f-~00l in. and thus possesses an
actual dimension of 3~l703 in. (80.525 mm.).
~00l5,indicating that the cylinder bore is oversize
to the extent of +~00l5 in. and thus possesses an
actual dimension of 3~l708 in. (80.5375 mm.).
The pistons are marked with the actual
cylinder bore size, the requisite running clearance being allowed for in the machining.
Thus those marked -V00l in. should be fitted to
bores marked ~~00l in. and so on throughout the
range covered.
When the cylinder head is removed and the pistons
withdrawn, the cylinder bores should be measured
for wear, Indication that a rebore of the cylinders
is necessary is given by general loss of performance,
oiling up, and poor compression, and is confirmed by
measurement of the bores.
Rebores
Four ranges of rebore sizes are provided and
cylinders must only be rebored to one of these sizes
to ensure the supply of the correct pistons.
To provide the normal machining tolerance, oversize
pistons are available which are 0005 in., ~00l in. and
in diameter
025 mm. and ~O375
mm.) larger
The four standard oversizes for rebores are
+~0l0 in. (.25 mm.) [actualbore 3.1793 in. (80.75 mm.)]
~020in. (.50 mm.) [actualbore 3.1893 in. (81 mm.)]
+~030 in. (.75 mm.) [actualbore 3~ 1993 in. (81 ~25mm.)]
~04Oin. (1.00 mm.) [actualbore 3~2093 in.(81.5 mm.)]
and oversize pistons are available for the above rebore
sizes in the following range H-0005 in., +~00l0 in.,
+~00l5 in..
There are thus twenty piston sizes available for
replacement purposes as tabulated.

ENGINE

Piston marking

Bore size

To suit

3~l693 in. to

standard bore

3.1697 in.

To suit
+~0005 in. bore

3.1698 in. to
3~l702 in.

To suit
~00l0in. bore

3~l703 in. to
3.1707 in.

To suit
~00l5in. bore

3~l708 in. to
3.1712 in.

1st Oversize (010in.)

Piston marking

Bore size

To suit
~0l0in. bore

3.1793 in. to
3.1797 in.

To suit
+~0l05 in. tore

3~l798 in. to
3.1802 in.

To suit
~0l10 in. bore

3~l803 in. to
3.1807 in.

To suit
0l Sin, bore

3~l808 in. to
3.1812 in.

2nd Oversize (~020in.)

Piston marking

Bore size

To suit
~020in. bore

3~l893 in. to
3~l897 in.

To suit
~0205in. bore

3.1898 in. to
3~l902 in.

To suit
~02l0in. bore

3.1903 in. to
3.1907 in.

To suit
~02l5in. bore

3.1908 in. to
3.1912 in.
A.25

(2+ LITRE)

3rd Oversize (+030 in.)

Piston marking

Bore size

Piston marking

Bore size

To suit
+~03O in. bore

3~l993 in. to
31997 in.

To suit
+0400 in. bore

3~2093 in. to
32097 in.

To suit
+~O305 in. bore

31998 in. to
3~2002 in.

To suit
~0405in. bore

3.2098 in. to
32102 in.

To suit
~O3lOin. bore

3~2OO3 in. to
3.2007 in.

To suit
+~04l0 in. bore

32103 in. to
32107 in.

To suit
0315in. bore

3~20O8 in. to
3.2012 in.

To suit
+~04l5 in. bore

3~2l08 in. to
3.2112 in.

THE ENGINF

I.

A.26

4th Oversize (+~04O in.)

*-4+