Report

Summer Internship at Arvind

Mills,Santej.
NIFT MUMBAI
BATCH- 2014-18
Duration :- June 1,2016-June 15,2016.

Student Names:
Aakarsh Yadav, Ayush Gautam, Gitika Awasthi, Harshal
Shanvar, Parth Dev Verma, Prerna Khatri, Ravikant
Singh.

COMPANY PROFILE
ARVIND MILLS SANTEJ, AHMEDABAD

Arvind Limited (formerly known as Arvind Mills LTD.) is

a textile manufacturer and the flagship company of the Lalbhai
Group. Its headquarters is in Ahmadabad, Gujarat, India. It
manufactures cotton shirting, denim, knits and bottom
weights (Khakis) fabrics. It is India's largest denim
manufacturer apart from being worlds fourth-largest producer
and exporter of denim.

In the early 1980s, the company brought denim into the domestic
market, thus starting the jeans revolution in India. Today it retails
its own brands like Flying Machine, Newport and Excalibur and
licensed international brands like Arrow, Lee, Wrangler and
Tommy Hilfiger, through its nationwide retail network. Arvind also
runs a value retail chain, Mega mart, which stocks company
brands.
Arvind has its branches in Santej,Naroda and Banglore.
Naroda branch deals with denim fabric manufacturing.
Banglore branch deals with apparel manufacturing.
Santej centre has a Shirting Division, Bottoms Division,
Casuals(Indigo) Division and Knits Division.

Our area of focus for Internship was mainly in the Shirting Division

SHIRTING DIVISON
COTTON SOURCING
According to the requirement in Shirting section of Arvind limited
Santej, Ahmadabad they always order 100 % Cotton. Cotton are
bought in bales and stored into the store room at shirting section. Bale
of around 165-250 kg cotton comes into the spinning mill. Moisture
content of cotton is 7%.

BALES SPECIFICATIONS
1. Weight of the bales (comes in packages of 220 to 250 kg).
2. Bales are stored according to different variety of Cotton.

VARIETY OF THE COTTON

Long - Strong Cotton
Raw Cotton (Australian)
Long - Strong Cotton
Shankar-6 Super (Indian)
Long - Strong Cotton
Us 1-1/8 (American)
Extra Long & Very Strong Cotton Els I-7/16 (Chinese)
Extra Long & Very Strong Cotton
Barakat (Sudan)
Extra Long & Very Strong Cotton
Pima (Australian)
Long - Strong Cotton
Bunny Brahma (Indian)

 Long - Strong Cotton

Bola-S (Burkina Faso)
Other varieties of cotton are:1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Pakistan cotton
Bani Brahma Maharashtra baby cotton
Recycle cotton
Gizza-76 (Egyptian)
Gizza-45 (Egyptian)

GODOWN SPECIFICATION
1. Storage Area: 1500-2000 sq. M
2. Capacity: 4000-6000 bales

FLOW CHART OF PROCESSES DONE

Spinning

Soft Winding

Yarn Dyeing

Winding

Warping

Sizing

Weaving

Processing

Quality Assurance


Inspection/Packing/Finishing

SPINNING
The process of twisting together of fibers to form yarn is called
spinning.
The basic processes included in spinning can be listed as carding,
combing, drafting, twisting and winding. When the fibers pass through
these processes, they are subsequently formed into lap, sliver, roving
and finally yarn. These stages can be explained according to their
occurrence.
The carding process converts lap into card sliver.
The combing process converts card sliver to comb sliver.
The drafting or drawing out process converts sliver into roving.
Further drafting and twisting process converts roving into yarn.
The winding process reels the yarn on bobbins, spools or cones.
In Arvind mills Santej unit Method used for spinning is ring spinning

Processes Of Spinning Department

Blow Room
Blow room is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. The
bales are taken to the blow room and prepared for the process. Basic
operations in the blow room are:

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Opening.
Cleaning.
Mixing or blending.
Micro dust removal.
Uniform feed to the carding machine.
Recycling the waste.

Trtzschler Automatic Bale Opener (Blendomat Bo-A) was the machine

being used for the opening and blending process.
Carding
Carding is the initial straightening process which puts the fiber into a
parallel lengthwise alignment. This makes the tangled mass of fiber
ready to produce yarn.
To transfer opened and cleaned fibre into sheet form of definite width
and length is called lap.
Sliver Formation
The lap is treated for removing the remaining trash, disentangling and
molding it into a round rope like mass called 'Sliver'.
Combing
In this process, the fine-toothed combs continue straightening the
fibers until they are arranged in such a parallel manner that the short
fibers are completely separated from the longer fiber.

Drawing, twisting and winding

After combing, drawing is done which pulls the staple lengthwise over
each other. After several stages of drawing out, the sliver is passed to
the spindles where it is given its first twist and is then wound on
bobbins.

These bobbins are placed on the roving frame where further drawing
out and twisting is done until the fiber is about the diameter of a pencil
lead. 'Roving' is the final product of the several drawing-out operations.

Blending of fibers
Blending of fibers 10% Lycra and 90 % cotton is taking place in ring
frame. Blower is attached to the machine for removing the dust.
After spinning the fibres into yarn, the next process carried out was
singeing of these yarns.
Singeing
It the burning-off of loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or
fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is
the burning off of protruding fiber ends from the surface of the fabric. If
not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled fabric surfaces,
and pilling results.
Singeing is done for the following cases:
Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;
Protruding fibre ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or
fabrics.

During our internship at Arvind Ltd. we observed that gas singeing of

cotton or cotton blend yarns was being carried out.

SOFT WINDING

Soft Winding section is an important part of an industry. It is the first

step for yarn for dyeing. If the winding process is not accurate then it
affects the dyeing process.
Objectives:
Following are the objects required to gain in soft winding section :
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

To
To
To
To
To
To

make soft package

transfer yarn from cone to spring tube or plastic tube
make free the cone from yarn to facilities next process
reduce the density of package
remove unwanted materials from the package
facilitate batching operation

YARN DYEING:
Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of the yarns before they have been woven or
knitted into fabrics. Yarn dyeing is used to create interesting checks,
stripes and plaids with different-colored yarns in the weaving process.
In yarn dyeing, dyestuff penetrates the fibers in the core of the yarn.
Yarn dyeing can be done in the following forms

Skein (Hank) Dyeing:

Package Dyeing:
Warp-beam Dyeing:
Space Dyeing

THE METHOD USED IN THE INDUSTRY WAS PACKAGE DYEING AND

BEAM DYEING.

In package dyeing the yarn was wound on a small perforated spool or

tube called a package. Then in one tank bleaching of the yarn was
done. Meanwhile, in another tank all the ingredients were first mixed,
the dye mixture was prepared and then transferred to the first tank for
dyeing. Many spools fit into the dyeing machine in which the flow of

the dye bath alternated from the center to the outside, and then from
the outside to the center of the package. In one batch/package 5-6
cones were dyed at a time. The type of dye which was used mostly was
reactive dye. The M:L:R was 1:5:5
Package dyed yarns do not retain the softness and loftiness that skeindyed yarns do. They are however satisfactory and very widely used for
most types of yarns that are found in knitted and woven fabrics.
Brand of the machine being used was THIES, THIN, FONGS
Both package dyeing and Beam dyeing is carried out in Arvind.
After dyeing a Hydro extractor is used which removes about 40%-50%
moisture.
The leftover moisture removed by drying in a dryer machine.

WARPING:
This process was basically the preparation of warp yarns. There are two
methods of warp preparation: Indirect and Direct.
Indirect Warping: The yarns from the yarn packages are wound onto
an intermediate cylinder (mill) in many parallel groups with a specified
density, and then they are wound onto the warp beam.
Direct Warping: The ends of the yarn are wrapped in one operation,
from the yarn packages onto the warp beam.
However, there are certain requirements that have to be kept in mind
while using both the methods, information about which has been given
in the table below.
Requirements for Direct and Indirect Warping

Requirement

Yarn ends density

Direct Warping

Yarn ends per section R

Number of
revolutions

Warp length

Number of sections

NA

Yarn ends per section NA

R - Required; O - Optional; NA - Not Applicable

SIZING:
Sizing:
Sizing is the process of applying the size material on yarn. Size is
applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to
provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax,
and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene,
poly-acrylic acid, and poly-acetates are employed.
The chemicals used in the size paste were:
PVR (grafted starch) which was chemically prepared.
Plystram, which is a natural starch (modified).
Technobind (Acrylic binding component)

WEAVING PROCESS
The weaving is a process of formation of fabric with interlacement of
two or more sets of yarns using a stable machine called loom. Woven

fabric is normally much longer in the warp direction than it is wide, that
is, in the weft direction.
Warp yarns are fed from large reels called creels or beams.The filling
yarns are fed from bobbins, called quills, carried in shuttles (hollow
projectiles) that are moved back and forth across the warp yarns,
passing over some and under others.
The shuttle is designed so that the yarn it carries can unwind freely as
the shuttle moves. Each length of yarn, fed from the shuttle as it
moves across the loom, is called a pick. The yarn folds over itself at the
end of each pick and forms another pick as the shuttle returns.
Steps followed during Weaving: Shedding: Raising selected warp yarns, or ends, with suitable
harnesses, consisting of frames of heddles, with taut vertical
wires and eyelets, or strips with openings in the middle. There is
one heddle for each end that is threaded through the eyelet.
Picking
laying a length of the filling or weft yarn between warp yarns
from the shuttle (a hollow projectile that holds weft yarn inside)
as it moves across the shed.
Battening or beating in
Forcing the filling yarn from the pick against the just-formed cloth
next to the previous pick. This step is necessary because the
shuttle requires some space in its movement across the loom and
it is not possible to deposit the pick closely against the previous
picks. Battening is done with the reed, which is a grating of
parallel vertical wires between the warp yarns.
Taking up
winding the cloth, as it is formed, onto a take up reel, the cloth
beam.
As the cloth is taken up, warp yarn is released from the warp
beam. This action is called letting of.

The weaving machines being used at Arvind Ltd. were Rapier and Airjet
looms.

PROCESSING
DESIZING PROCESS
Objective
The purpose of Desizing is to remove size paste applied on the warp
yarn before weaving process, this size paste remains on the fabric
produced after weaving
Major DE-Sizing Process Involved:
> Enzymatic Desizing of starches on the cotton fabrics
> Oxidation Desizing
> Acid Desizing
> Removal of water Soluble size.
Process
Enzymatic Desizing was done for the fabrics (where starch was
used as a sizing agent), for Desizing starch amylase and maltase
were used.

Desizing of Synthetic Sizing agents required the fabric roll to be

passed through water containing wetting agent (for rapid
penetration) and then by heating it in the steamer or J-box (for
Hydrating the Dried PVA film).
Problems Arising While Processing
Certain problems might arise while the process itself that might lead to
degrade in quality of or Desizing output.
>Too less liquor uptake.
>Short Swelling Time (dwell Time is improperly planned).
>Wash powder is used in small quantity compared to the required
quantity.

SCOURING
After Desizing, the cloth still contained fats and waxes (both natural
and added), due to its presence absorbency of the cloth was adversely
affected. This led to improper dyeing and finishing in the subsequent
processes. These impurities were removed from the fabric in the
scouring processes.

Kiers are used for scouring process. If it was under high pressure,
saponification reaction took place in which impurities became soluble
and then they were removed by washing.
Kiers
1. Open Kiers.
2. Closed Kiers.
Chemical Used For Scouring
1. Caustic soda
2. Sodium Sulphate
3. Soda ash.
Number Of Kiers In Arvind Textiles
5 Kiers.
Following Steps Are Kept In Mind During Scouring Process
1) Feeding of fabric into the kier should be in a uniform rope form.
2) Kier should not be filled beyond 80% to 85% of its rated capacity
as overfilling may cause undue hydraulic pressure.
3) Temperature and pressure should be according to the standards.
4) The kier should be at least half filled; otherwise the cloth may
turn around due to circulating liquor and get entangled.

QUALITY ASSURANCE/TESTING
LABORATORY
Quality Testing is the final stage of manufacturing. Each and every
result is recorded and marked for future referance.
In Arvind's quality testing lab, testing of fabric was done by physical
and chemical methods.

Shrinkage
Shrinkage test involves washing the fabric in a top loading or front
loading washing machine and recording its dimensions, strength and
endurance before and after the process to determine the extent of
shrinkage. Arvind generally follows AATCC and ASTM standards to
define acceptance levels and also takes into consideration uptill what
GSM is required by the customer.
Rubbing Test
Rubbing test included two methods ; a dry rubbing test and a wet
rubbing test, using a crockmeter. A sample piece was cut of the fabric
that had to be tested and a gray fabric, which was used to rub against
the former. Readings were noted using a crockmeter for a total of
about 10 times ( 1 cycle = 1 second) which were then were noted and
compared.
Color Fastness To Washing
A multifibre sample strip ( consisting smaller strips of acetate,
polyester, cotton, nylon, acrylic and wool ) along with a sample of the
fabric to be tested is put in a washing and dry cleaning machine,
gyrowash maintaining temperature of about 49 degree C for 30
minutes. The washed sample is then compared to the original
unwashed fabric and the multifibre sample strip to check for color
bleeding, fading etc.
The cycle is repeated for a number of times to be sure of the
observations and note variations with number of washes.
Color Fastness to Light
The specimen to be tested is kept under a controlled intensity of light
for several hours (sometimes even 24 hours) to check its impact and
record changes. This plays an important role in quality determination,
since it gives a fair idea of the fabric's strength, durability, colour

fastness under normal climatic changes such as varied intensities of

light.
Tensile Strength
A circular sample of the fabric to be tested is placed on a tensile
strength testing machine and load is applied to it. Then, the exact
amount of load that it can withstand it recorded. This is repeated for 56 times to get accurate results. Regular cotton fabric can generally
withstand upto 25 lbs of weight, but it may also vary according to the
buyer's demands and GSM of cloth.
Seam Slippage
This process is more or less entirely similar to the tensile strength
testing method but the difference is that, this process involves loading
weight on the seam to measure the maximum amount of pressure it
can withstand.
Tear Strength
Tear strength of a fabric sample was measured in grams with the help
of Elmatear Digital Tester 855 (James Heal) by putting load on the
fabric until it tears, and the exact load which cannot be handled by the
fabric sample was recorded.
Abrasion Resistance
Abrasion resistance is recorded using abrasion & pulling tester by
martindale method. The sample of the original fabric is rubbed against
an abrasive cloth like wool-polyester. The results were then observed
and recorded after each batch of 500 movements until they reached
the desired number of movements (generally total of 3500). The end
point if reached for a woven when two or more yarns have broken, or
for a knitted fabric when a hole appears.
Stretch Recovery

A sample of the fabric to be inspected is allowed to hang and the same

is pulled from both directions and stretched. The sample is then
allowed to relax and recovery is then compared with the original and
recorded at subsequent time periods while conducting a number of
cycles.
Strength Inspection
Strength of the fabric is its most important quality aspect. It is
measured using a Peyton Strength Testing Machine. Usually a 10*20
cm sample was used for inspection.

FABRIC INSPECTION
Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the
fabric just after the grey fabric production in the loom.
Inspection loop:

Fabric is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality view

point.

Equipments
Inspection table

Fabric inspection machine(Nazer, L 90P, Pakistan),

Nipper,
Pointer,
Cutter,
Comb etc.

Investigation
In the inspection table the operator finds out faults in the fabric and
analysis their intensity by visual inspection. Some of the common
weaving faults are:
1. Stop mark
2. Pick faults, e.g.-miss pick and double pick.
3. Wrong density /drawing
4. Pattern or design break
5. Selvedge faults, e.g.-lashing in, cut selvedge.
6. Oil stain.
7. Crack, hole
8. Missing ends
9. Slubs

Acceptance And Rejection Criteria

Acceptance and rejection criteria of a fabric depends on the inspection
system adopted for that order.
At the time of our visit, Arvind Mills, Santej was following 4 Point
inspection system.

4- POINT SYSTEM

The 4- point system is widely used for fabric inspection, in the united
states it is known as AAMA point grading system (AAMA- American
Apparel manufacturers association).
Procedure Of Four Point System
1. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries.
2. These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be
mounted behind the inspection table under adequate light and
re-rolled as they leave the table.
3. Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector
pulls the fabric over the inspection table.
4. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection
form.
5. Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of
fabric (meter/yard).
FABRIC DEFECTS POINT VALUES BASED ON THE FOLLOWING
Length of defect in Fabric
Up to 3 inch
Over 3 inch up to 6 inch
Over 6 inch up to 9 inch
Over 9 inch
Holes and Opening
1 or less
Over 1 inch

Points allotted
1
2
3
4
2
4

CALCULATIONS AND RESULT

Points per 100 yard square =
Total points scored in roll X 36 inch
................. X 100
Fabric width/inches X Total length yard inspected

Total defect points per 100 yard square are calculated.

If fabric rolls contains less than 40 points per 100 yard square are
considered first quality and as an Acceptance criteria.

If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are
considered second.

FINISHING
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert
the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically
to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the
look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing.
Calendering:
Calendering may be defined as the modification of the surface of a
fabric by the action of heat and pressure. The finish is obtained by
passing the fabric between heated rotating rollers when both speed of
rotation and pressure applied are variable. The surface of rollers can
be either smooth or engraved to provide the appropriate finish to
fabric. The rollers may be made of various material from hardened
steel to elastic thermoplastic.
Objectives of calendaring : To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch
to the fabric.
To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness
To reduce the air permeability by closing the threads
To increase the luster
To reduce the yarn slippage
To increase the opacity of the fabric

 Surface patterning by embossing

Sueding/Peach Finishing:
This process abrades the surface of fabric causing fibrils to split from
the fibers to produce shorter pile surface. Using abrasive-covered
rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.) Creates softer hand of fabric &
cause an apparent shade change. Alternative terms are Emerizing,
Sueding, Sanding or Peach finish. Produces soft and smooth/silky
feel.
The fabric moves at a speed of 15-20 meters per minute under two
or more rollers with fine emery paper on first roller to more abrasive
paper in each successive roller. High abrasion and coarse abrasive
sheet may cause damage to fabric. Abrasion generate heat may
cause harshness on synthetic fabric.
After this finish=> heat set=> washing=> dyeing Decreases the
strength by 60%. Dry cleaning is preferred for this fabric. Can be
applied to P/C, P/N blends, and 100% silk, polyester, nylon and Micro
denier synthetics for sportswear.

CONCLUSION
The Textile internship in Arvind Limited, Santej has been a great
learning experience. This internship provided us with the practical
knowledge of concepts, That we had been studying in the theory
classes. It also gave us an exposure to the insights of textile industry,
Its working model and its contribution to the economy & society.

The learnings from the internship in the textile sector gave us an idea
of flow process sequence and technical details on machine particulars
of spinning, weaving, knitting and quality control departments. We now
have a better understanding and knowledge of the process details,
product quality and parameters.
It helped us in understanding the concepts & working on a first hand
basis, and also expose us to experience the process flow in actual
professional environment. It enlighten us to the insight of scopes and
opportunities in the textile industry.
Working in a renowned company like Arvind Limited introduced us to
the idea of an actual textile manufacturing environment and also the
human resource management of such a large institutions and
industries. By being a part of such a big industry, we were able to see
how large scale production is carried out.
We are grateful to our mentors in Arvind for providing such a great
leaning experience .