Cub Cadet 1000 - 1500 Service Manual

Service Manual
1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors

NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outdoor power
equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals.
These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and trained professional. Read, understand, and follow all
instructions and use common sense when working on power equipment. This includes the contents of the products Operators Manual, supplied with the equipment. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omission in this publication,
although care has been taken to make it as complete and accurate as possible at the time of publication. However, due to
the variety of outdoor power equipment and continuing product changes that occur over time, updates will be made to these
instructions from time to time. Therefore, it may be necessary to obtain the latest materials before servicing or repairing a
product. The company reserves the right to make changes at any time to this publication without prior notice and without
incurring an obligation to make such changes to previously published versions. Instructions, photographs and illustrations
used in this publication are for reference use only and may not depict actual model and component parts.
Copyright 2006 MTD Products Inc. All Rights Reserved
MTD Products Inc. - Product Training and Education Department

FORM NUMBER - 769-02100
1/2006
Table of Contents
1.
INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................ 1
2.
NEW HOOD DESIGN ................................................................................................................. 3
3.
HOOD PANEL REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES ................................................................................ 5
4.
HOOD AND HINGE REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES ........................................................................ 6
5.
REAR FENDER REMOVAL ....................................................................................................... 7
6.
FUEL SYSTEM ........................................................................................................................... 9
7.
FUEL SHUT-OFF SOLENOID ................................................................................................. 11
8.
FUEL RELATED NO-START ISSUES ..................................................................................... 11
9.
MUFFLER REMOVAL .............................................................................................................. 12
10.
CUTTING DECK REMOVAL .................................................................................................... 13
11.
DECK LIFT SHAFT ASSEMBLY ............................................................................................. 15
12.
LIFT SHAFT BUSHINGS ......................................................................................................... 16
13.
DECK LIFT CABLES AND PULLEYS ..................................................................................... 17
14.
LEVELING THE CUTTING DECK ........................................................................................... 18
15.
DASH PANEL REMOVAL ....................................................................................................... 20
16.
CRUISE CONTROL AND PARK BRAKE LINKAGES ............................................................ 22
17.
TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT: CVT ................................................................... 24
18.
DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: CVT .................................................................................... 27
19.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: CVT .................................................................................................. 30
20.
SERVICING THE BRAKE PEDAL SHAFT BUSHINGS: ......................................................... 32
21.
TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT: CVT ...................................................................................... 34
22.
TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND INTERNALS: CVT ................................................................... 36
23.
TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT ........................................... 36
24.
DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT ........................................................... 39
25.
HYDRO CONTROL ROD ADJUSTMENT ............................................................................... 42
26.
BRAKES AND BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT ................................................. 43
27.
PEDAL BUSHING REPLACEMENT ........................................................................................ 46
28.
TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE: HYDROSTATIC LT ...................................... 47
29.
TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT .............................................................. 49
30.
TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT........................................... 52
31.
DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT............................................................ 54
32.
BRAKES AND BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT ................................................. 58
33.
TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE: HYDROSTATIC GT ..................................... 62
34.
TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT .............................................................. 64
35.
STEERING GEAR AND STEERING PINION GEAR REPLACEMENT ................................... 67
36.
STEERING ADJUSTMENT / ALIGNMENT ............................................................................. 68
37.
PIVOT BAR SERVICE ............................................................................................................. 69
38.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ........................................................................................................... 71
39.
UNDERSTANDING THE PTO SWITCH ................................................................................... 77
Series 1000 and 1500

1.
INTRODUCTION
1.5.
Refer to the table provided for engine applications in the 1000 series range. See Figure 1.5.
1000 Series Engine Applications

Year Model # Factory #
Engine
2001 1027
13A-328-101 9.0 HP BS
1170 13CD608G101 17.5 HP BS
1180 13AT608H101 18 HP BS
1212 14AJ808H101 21 HP BS
Disclaimer: This service manual is intended to be

used by trained technicians.
Disclaimer: The information contained in this manual
is current and accurate at the time of writing, but is subject to change without notice.
1.1.
Intent: This manual is intended to:
Provide specific service and repair procedures

for a range of Cub Cadet 1000 and 1500 Series
tractors manufactured for the 2005/2006 season.
Highlight significant changes to the Cub Cadet

1000 Series since its introduction.
1.2.
Engines: A variety of single cylinder and V-twin

engines have been used in the 1000 series tractors. Kohler Courage line of single-cylinder and
V-Twin engines is presently the most heavily
used power source in the 1000 Series line
1.3.
For specific engine service information, refer to

the engine manufacturers service publications.
1.4.
The engine is partially identified by the 4th digit

of the factory number:
13AX11CG756 - Kohler Courage single cylinder
13AP11CP756 - Kohler courage V-Twin
2002
1027
1170
1515
1517
13A-328-101
13CD608G101
13A-201F100
13A-231G100
2003
1525
1527
1529
13A-221F100 15 HP KAW
13A-241G100 17 HP KAW
13A-261H100 19 HP KAW
2004 LT 1018
LT 1022
LT 1024
GT 1222
13AL11CG710 18.5 HP BS
13AB11CH710 22 HP BS
13AR11CP710 24 HP BS
14AB13CH710 22 HP BS
2005 LT 1042 13BX11CG710

LT 1045 13AX11CH710
LT 1046 13AP11CH710
LT 1050 13AQ11CP710
SLT 1554 13AK11CK710
19 HP KOH
20 HP KOH
23 HP KOH
26 HP KOH
27 HP KOH
2006 LT 1042 13AX11CG756

LT 1045 13AX11CH756
LT 1050 13AP11CP756
SLT 1550 13AQ11BP756
GT 1554 14AK13BK756
19 HP HOH
20 HP KOH
23 HP KOH
25 HP KOH
27 HP KOH
Figure 1.5
9.0 HP BS
17.5 HP BS
15 HP KOH
17 HP KOH

1.6.
Decks: Cutting decks ranging in width from 38

to 54 have been used on the 1000 Series platform.
1.9.
1.7.
There have been multiple versions of some

decks, most particularly the 42. Check the serial
number when researching for parts or service
information.
1.8.
The deck size is identified by the 8th digit of the

factory number: See Figure 1.8.
1.10. A Two-belt CVT system driving an MTD singlespeed transaxle is presently used only on the
LT1040 model. This system can be distinguished by the gear selector (F-N-R) on the left
rear fender, and the simple drive pedal.
See Figure 1.10.
Year
2001
Drive Systems: A variety of hydrostatic and

CVT drive systems have been used on the 1000
Series tractors.
1000 Series Deck Applications

Width
Deck
Deck/PTO Belts
27.5"
CYB/STD 754-0754
42"
G
754-0472
46"
H
754-0349/754-0476
2002
27.5"
42"
38"
42"
CYB/STD
G
F
G
754-0754
754-0472
754-0641
754-0645/754-0644
2003
38"
42"
46"
F
G
H
754-0641
754-0645/754-0644
754-04011
2004
42"
46"
50"
G
H
P
754-0498/754-0499
754-04033
754-04048
42"
46"
50"
54"
G
H
P
K
754-04060B
754-04033
754-04077
754-0642
42"
46"
50"
54"
G
H
P
K
754-0349
754-0349
754-0349
754-0349
Figure 1.10
2005
2006
1.11. A similar two-belt CVT system was employed to

drive a heavy-duty transaxle in some 2002 and
2002 models having two forward speed ranges.
These are easy to identify by the presence of the
gear selector lever between the operators knees
rather than on the fender.
1.12. All CVT driven 1000 and 1500 Series tractors
have a gear selector lever and a drive pedal on
the right side, near the brake pedal.
1.13. All Hydrostatic transaxles on the 1000 and 1500
Series are operated by a rocker pedal on the
right side, near the brake pedal.
Figure 1.8
13AX11CG756 - 42 2-blade deck
13AX11CH756 - 46 3-blade deck
13AP11CP756 - 50 3-blade deck
13AQ11BP756 - 50 3-blade deck
14AK13BK756 - 54 3-blade deck
1.14. A Hydro-Gear 310-0510 hydrostatic transaxle is

used on LT models having 20 rear tires. Hydrostatic transaxles have a rocker pedal to control
forward and reverse direction and speed.

1.15. A Hydro-Gear 314-0610 hydrostatic transaxle
with a different final drive ratio is used on LT
models having 22 rear tires. Hydrostatic transaxles have a rocker pedal to control forward
and reverse direction and speed. See Figure
1.15.
2.
NEW HOOD DESIGN
2.1.
Early 1000 and 1500 Series tractors used a variety of steel hoods and side panels. Later ones
resembled those used on the 2000 and 2500
Series tractors.
2.2.
The hood presently used on the 1000 series

tractors is a molded 1-piece design. See Figure
2.2.
Figure 1.15
1.16. A Hydro-Gear 320-3000 hydrostatic transaxle is
used on GT designated models. This is a substantially heavier duty IHT than the one used in
the LT models. Hydrostatic transaxles have a
rocker pedal to control forward and reverse
direction and speed. See Figure 1.16.
Figure 2.2
2.3.
The 1000 Series hood opens from the back.

See Figure 2.3.
Figure 2.3
Figure 1.16

2.4.
The 1000 Series hood can be easily removed:

See Figure 2.4.
A pair of gas charged cylinders provide lift assist.

See Figure 2.5.
Gas lift Cylinders
Pivot Rod
Figure 2.5
Figure 2.4
2.6.
Disconnect the headlight wires
Release the retaining springs
Align the bolts in the hood with the slots in the

hinge.
Lifting the hood off of the tractor.
2.5.
The hood used on the 1500 Series tractors for

2005 and 2006 is more substantial than that
used on the 1000 Series. It is a one-piece
molded design very similar to the one used on
the much larger 5000 and 6000 series tractors.
See Figure 2.5.
A new spring-loaded latch was added to hold the

hood closed. See Figure 2.6.
Figure 2.6
Figure 2.5
It opens from the front.

2.7.
A torsion spring keeps the latch secure until the

lower pivot latch is intentionally pulled up, to
open the hood. See Figure 2.7.
3.2.
Disconnect headlight harness (plugged secured

to hood lift cylinder). See Figure 3.2.
Headlight
Harness
Torsion Spring
Upper
Pivot
Latch
Cotter
Pin
Pivot
Rod
Lower
Pivot
Latch
Figure 3.2
Figure 2.7
3.3.
2.8.
The hood latches to a sturdy rod that is mounted

to the front of the frame.
See Figure 2.8.
Remove the air deflector baffle using a 3/8

wrench.
See Figure 3.3.
Hood Latch Rod

Figure 3.3
Figure 2.8
3.
HOOD PANEL REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES

NOTE: Use this procedure if the hood alone is to
be removed. Typical reasons might include
replacement because of damage to the hood, or
to ease access for other service.
3.1.
Disconnect ground cable from battery using a

7/16 wrench.
3.4.
Support the hood as it is being loosened.
3.5.
Separate hood from hinge using a 3/8 wrench.
3.6.
Lift hood off of tractor.
4.
HOOD AND HINGE REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES
4.8.
Hood installation notes: See Figure 4.8.
NOTE: Use this procedure for more extensive

repairs. Typical reasons may include dash panel
removal, or the need for more working room
than simply removing the hood will provide.
4.1.
Remove the battery: See Figure 4.1.
Figure 4.8
Position the hinge support bar over the two

spacers that partially cover the threads of the
balls that the that hood support struts attach to.
The slots in the ends of the bar will fit over the
spacers.
Support the hood with an improvised prop rod.
Install the screws that hold the hinge support bar

to the dash support and instrument panel.
Snap the hood support cylinder into place, and

remove the prop rod.
The remainder of the installation process is simply the reversal of the removal steps.
Figure 4.1
Disconnect the negative battery cable (black)

first, using a 7/16 wrench.
Disconnect the positive battery cable (red) using
a 7/16 wrench.
Remove the battery hold-down.
Lift the battery from the tractor.
4.2.
Disconnect the headlight harness. (Plug secured

to the hood lift cylinder).
4.3.
Support the hood with an improvised prop-rod to

prevent damage.
4.4.
Remove screws holding hinge support bar to

dash support using a 1/2 wrench.
4.5.
Disconnect and remove the hood lift cylinders

using a small straight-blade screwdriver.
4.6.
Remove screws & flat washers holding hinge

support bar to dash panel using a 3/8 wrench.
4.7.
Lift hood and hinge assembly off of the tractor,

and remove it to a safe place.

5.
REAR FENDER REMOVAL
5.1.
It is necessary to remove the fender assembly

for access to the following service areas: See
Figure 5.1.
5.4.
Remove the rubber grip from the cutting deck

height control handle atop the right rear fender.
See Figure 5.4.
Figure 5.4
Figure 5.1
5.5.
Fuel tank (hydrostatic drive riders)
Lift-shaft assembly (except bushings)
Deck lift cable removal
Wiring harness inspection or removal
Dash panel removal
Traction drive belt idler pulley removal
Traction drive belt tension arm removal

NOTE: At first-glance, fender removal appears
to be a substantial job. Skilled mechanics can
typically remove the fenders from a 1000 Series
Cub Cadet tractor in about 15 minutes, with an
equal amount of time required for installation.
5.2.
Disconnect the ground cable from the negative

battery post using a 7/16 wrench.
5.3.
Remove the cutting deck from the tractor.
Disconnect the two yellow wires from the seat

safety switch mounted to the left side seat
bracket. See Figure 5.5.
Safety Switch Connectors
Figure 5.5
5.6.
Release the gold colored extension spring from

the left side seat bracket using a length of starter
rope or a spring removal tool.
gold colored spring: left seat bracket
red spring: right seat bracket
Only the gold colored spring must be removed

because it blocks access to the bolts that hold
the seat bracket to the frame.

5.7.
Remove the four bolts that hold the seat brackets to the frame using a 1/2 wrench.
5.8.
Remove the seat to a safe location.
5.9.
Remove the hydro control pedal (or speed control pedal on CVT equipped models) using a T40 driver. See Figure 5.9.
5.12. Peel-back the rubber foot pad to reach and

remove the carriage bolt. See Figure 5.12.
T-40 Screws
Figure 5.12
5.13. Carefully peel-up each rear corner of the larger
instruction label located between the foot pads,
revealing two screws that hold the fender
assembly to the frame. See Figure 5.13.
Figure 5.9
5.10. Remove the brake pedal using a T-40 driver
(upper screw) and a 9/16 wrench (lower screw).
5.11. Remove the nuts from the carriage bolts that
secure the front edge of each running board to
the frame bracket that supports it.
See Figure 5.11.
Figure 5.13
NOTE: If the previous steps are done with care,
the label can be reapplied, using some spray-on
contact adhesive if necessary.
If the label shows signs of becoming damaged

by the peeling-back process, it should be
replaced during reassembly.
To identify and order a replacement label, note

the number printed on the lower right corner of
the label (S32484 AC typical). That number,
with a 777 prefix (777-S32484 AC) is usually the
part number of the label.
Figure 5.11
Apply thumb pressure to the rubber foot pad,

directly above the nut / carriage bolt to hold the
square boss on the nut into the bracket, to prevent rotation.

5.14. Remove the two screws that were revealed by
peeling-back the label. This can be done using a
3/8 wrench. See Figure 5.14.
When installing a large panel, start all of the

threaded fasteners, then go back and tighten
each after the panel is in position.
Test the operation of all controls and safety features in a safe place, free of obstacles and bystanders before returning the tractor to service.
6.
FUEL SYSTEM
6.1.
While the 1000 and 1500 Series tractors are

built on the same frame, the fuel systems differ
substantially in layout.
6.2.
The 1000 Series tractors have the fuel tank

beneath the hood, with the battery located under
the seat. See Figure 6.2.
Figure 5.14
5.15. Remove the fuel filler cap.
5.16. Lift the fenders off of the tractor, maneuvering
them to clear the cutting deck height control
lever. See Figure 5.16.
Figure 6.2
Figure 5.16
5.17. Remove the fenders to a safe place.
5.18. Replace the fuel filler cap.
5.19. Installation notes:
Confirm that the seat safety switch wires are

accessible before securing the fender.
144 in-lbs is adequate tightening torque for the

5/16-18 screws and bolts removed in this procedure. (1/2 wrench or T-40 driver)
6.3.
This positioning is necessary to provide easy

service access to the CVT drive system used on
the 1000 series tractors. The rear mounted battery, and the tray that supports it are easily
removable.
6.4.
The battery of the 1500 Series tractor is located

under the hood, with the fuel tank mounted
under the rear fenders.

6.5.
On current models of the 1000 and 1500 Cub

Cadet, the fuel is moved from the tank to the carburetor by a vacuum-driven fuel pump that is
mounted to the engine.
See Figure 6.5.
6.9.
In the event that it is necessary to remove the

fuel tank, begin by removing the fenders as
described in the REAR FENDER REMOVAL
section of this manual.
6.10. Make provisions for draining any fuel that

remains in the gas tank: 24 of 1/4 fuel line, and
a suitable catch pan will be sufficient.
Fuel Pump
6.11. Pinch the fuel line about 6 from the fuel tank to
prevent the line from emptying (unless it needs
to be drained or replaced).
Position the catch pan under the fitting on the

fuel tank.
Have the extra length of fuel line handy.
6.12. Remove the hose clamp that secures the fuel

line to the fitting on the gas tank.
See Figure 6.12.
Figure 6.5
6.6.
The fuel line runs from a barbed fitting on the

bottom of the fuel tank to the fuel pump.
6.7.
The 1500 series fuel line should be routed as

shown.
See Figure 6.7.
Fuel Line
Figure 6.12
6.13. Quickly pull the fuel line off of the fitting, and
replace it with the extra hose. Direct the hose
into the catch pan.
6.14. When the tank is empty, dispose of any unusable fuel in a safe and responsible manner.
Figure 6.7
6.8.
The fuel cap is vented.
There are a few non-vented fuel caps that will fit

the filler neck of the 1000 and 1500 Series tractor.
Non-vented caps are used on the Cub Cadet Big

Country line of utility vehicles.
Use of a non-vented cap on a 1000 or 1500

Series tractor will cause fuel supply issues.
10

6.15. Remove the plate that supports the seat brackets using a 1/2 wrench. See Figure 6.15.
Seat Bracket Plate
Figure 6.15
When the solenoid does not have power, it

closes, stopping the flow of fuel.
The solenoid usually emits an audible click

when power is applied or discontinued.
If the solenoid does not click, it is not working. If

it does click, it cannot be assumed to be working
properly.
8.
FUEL RELATED NO-START ISSUES
8.1.
The leading industry cause of no-start and

engine performance problems is stale or outdated fuel.
In temperate regions of the country, fuel purchased during the summer may not be volatile
enough to ignite during the winter months.
Similarly, Winter fuel may be cause performance issues if used into the summer months.
The gasoline companies taylor the contents of
their fuel blends to optimize performance, taking
climate and geography into account.
As fuel goes stale, the lighter end hydrocarbons

(more volatile elements) tend to evaporate, leaving the fuel less volatile.
In extreme cases, semi-solid residue will accumulate, damaging the fuel system.
If a piece of equipment will sit unused during the

dormant season, the fuel system should be
drained completely, or preservative should be
added to the fuel according to the preservative
manufacturers instructions.
8.2.
Alcohol content of the fuel should not exceed

10%.
Small amounts of ethanol are fairly common in

fuel.
Methanol is more destructive than ethanol, and

should be avoided.
Alcohol absorbs water. Fuel that contains alcohol will also contain a certain amount of water.
The water will corrode any metallic parts of the
fuel system, and may cause freezing damage in
low temperatures.
Products that purport to dry the fuel system are

generally isopropyl alcohol. The object is to resuspend the water that has settled out of the
alcohol the fuel already contains.
6.16. Lift the fuel tank out of the tractor.

7.
FUEL SHUT-OFF SOLENOID
7.1.
In all models of the 1000 and 1500 Series Cub

Cadet riders, there is a fuel shut-off solenoid
mounted to the carburetor. See Figure 7.1.
Fuel Shutoff Solenoid
Figure 7.1
7.2.
The fuel shut-off solenoid is a valve that is actuated by an electric coil.
The fuel shut-off solenoid helps prevent afterboom when a hot engine is turned-off.
The solenoid has power when the key is in the

run position and the safety switches on the tractor do not sense any unsafe conditions. When it
has power, the solenoid opens, allowing fuel to
reach the carburetor.
11
9.
9.7.
Ether-based starting fluids should not be used,

and may void engine warranties if their use is
detected.
Remove both hinge brackets. See Figure 9.7.

Hinge Bracket
MUFFLER REMOVAL
NOTE: There are a variety of mufflers on this
series of tractor depending on the year and
engine of the unit. this chapter will cover a few
different mufflers to give you the basics of muffler removal on this series.
NOTE: For all tractors, remove the bumper first.
On units with side panels:
9.1.
Remove the hood, side panels and grill.

NOTE: Make sure to disconnect the headlight
harness when you remove the grill and side panels.
9.2.
Figure 9.7
9.8.
Remove the self tapping hex cap screws securing the front frame assembly to the muffler shield
and muffler using a 1/2" socket. See Figure 9.2.
Remove the four screws in the sides of the muffler guard. Slide the muffler and muffler guard off
of the exhaust pipe(s). See Figure 9.8.
Muffler Guard
Hex Cap Screws

Figure 9.8
Frame
Muffler Shield
NOTE: You may have the tail pipe sticking out of

the left side. If so slide the guard off of it first.
Figure 9.2
9.3.
Remove the muffler and guard.

NOTE: Muffler slides off of the exhaust pipe. It is
NOT fastened to the pipe.
9.4.
Remove the four screws in the top of the muffler

guard. the muffler and muffler guard will now
separate.
9.5.
Reassemble in reverse order.
1000 Series with one piece hood.
9.6.
Remove hood as shown in section 2.
12

9.9.
Remove the four screws going through the muffler support brackets into the muffler mounting
9.16. Remove the four screws holding the muffler

guard to the front muffler support brackets. See
Figure 9.16.
Remove these hex screws. (two on each side)

Muffler Support Bracket
Figure 9.16
Figure 9.9
9.10. The muffler will now slide off of the exhaust
pipe(s).
NOTE: The rear two screws will be accessible

from the top. the front two screws will be accessible from the bottom.
9.11. Remove the screws in the muffler mounting

brackets and lift the brackets off of the muffler.
9.17. Slide the muffler and muffler guard off of the

exhaust pipe(s).
9.12. Reassemble in reverse order.
9.18. Remove the four screws in the top of the muffler

guard. Lift the muffler guard off of the muffler.
1500 with one piece hood:
9.13. Open hood.
9.14. Remove bumper

9.15. Remove the two clevis pins in the deck front stabilizer bracket.
10.
CUTTING DECK REMOVAL
10.1. Place the PTO switch in the off position.

10.2. Lower the lift lever to the lowest setting.
13

10.3. Remove the PTO belt from electric PTO clutch.
See Figure 10.3.
10.7. Slide the deck forward and release the front stabilizer rod. DO NOT DROP the deck to the
ground. See Figure 10.7.
Electric PTO
clutch
Idler
(earlier production)
Front
stabilizer
rod
Figure 10.3
Figure 10.7
NOTE: On some models you will need to

remove the belt guide first.
10.8. Slide the deck toward the right side of he tractor

and remove it from under the tractor.
NOTE: On earlier production models you need

to slip the belt off of the idler pulley before you
remove the belt from the PTO clutch.
CAUTION: Remove the deck stabilizer assembly from the tractor prior to moving the unit.
10.4. Pull the rear deck support pins outward from the
deck lift arms. See Figure 10.4.
NOTE: Depending on the model and deck, some

units have a J-bolt for the front stabilizer bar
instead of the U-bolt. On those units you can line
up the coined spot stamped in the middle of the
bolt with the slot in the bracket and slide it off.
See Figure 10.8.
Lift arm
Deck support
pin
U-Bolt Stabilizer
Figure 10.4
J-Bolt Stabilizer
10.5. Pivot the deck support pins to the rear.

10.6. Raise the lift lever to the highest setting. This will
raise the lift arms up and out of the way of the
deck assembly.
Figure 10.8
14

11.
DECK LIFT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
11.6. With the deck height control lever all the way forward, remove the hairpin clips that secure the
deck lift cables to the arms on the deck lift shaft.
See Figure 11.6.
11.1. If the deck lift shaft itself requires removal, first

remove the cutting deck.
11.2. Remove the fenders as described in the
FENDER REMOVAL section of this manual.
Deck Lift Cable
11.3. Disconnect the deck lift assist spring that

extends from the deck lift shaft to the transaxle
torque bracket using a length of starter rope or a
spring tool. See Figure 11.3.
Deck Lift Assist Spring
Figure 11.6
11.7. Remove the E-clip from each end of the lift-shaft.
See Figure 11.7.
Figure 11.3
E-clip
11.4. On models built in 2004 and prior, the lift assist
springs extend rearward to a pair of openings
with mounting tabs in the back surface of the
upper frame. See Figure 11.4.
Figure 11.7
Mounting Tabs
11.8. Pry the bushings that support the lift shaft out of
the frame.
Figure 11.4
11.5. Unbolt the seat bracket mounting plate from the
frame (4 screws) using a 1/2 wrench. This will
allow the fuel tank to be lifted slightly for clearance, but the tank need not be removed.
15

bushing, it should be a dry graphite or PTFE
based lube.
11.9. Slide the lift shaft assembly to the right, providing clearance to remove the left end of the shaft
from the frame. See Figure 11.9.
Lift Shaft
Replace the bushings an E-clips if they show

signs of wear.
Reverse the removal process to install the lift

shaft.
Connect the cables and install the bushings prior

to connecting the tension spring between the lift
shaft arm and the transaxle torque bracket.
12.
LIFT SHAFT BUSHINGS
12.1. The most common item on the lift shaft assembly to require service is likely to be the bushings
that support the shaft. These bushings are visible beneath the fender. See Figure 12.1.
Figure 11.9
Bushing
11.10. Slide the lift shaft back to the left to remove it
from the tractor.
11.11. On the bench, relieve torsion spring pressure
between the lift shaft and the lever that controls
it using a length of starter rope. See Figure
11.11.
Starter Rope
Torsion Spring
Figure 12.1
12.2. When performing normal maintenance that
requires deck removal, inspect the lift shaft
bushings while the weight of the deck is
removed from them.
These bushings are normal wear items.
Grasp the lift shaft and apply up and down force.
Watch for shaft motion within the bushings.
Figure 11.11
Larger decks, such as the 50 and 54 (P and K)

decks will place a greater load on the bushings.
11.12. Rotate the lever to align the coined ears with

the slots in the lift shaft arm, allowing separation
of the lever from the arm.
Worn bushings may cause deck leveling issues.
12.3. To replace the bushings, the weight of the deck

should be removed from the deck lift cable.
Remove the cutting deck before attempting to
remove the bushings.
11.13. Assembly notes:
Because of the dusty environment that many

mowers operate in, grease applied to this bushing may accelerate wear rather than prevent it. If
any lubricant is used between the shaft and the
16

12.4. Disconnect the deck lift assist spring that
extends from the deck lift shaft to the transaxle
torque bracket using a length of starter rope or a
spring tool.
See Figure 12.4.
13.3. Remove the rear tires using a 3/4 wrench.

See Figure 13.3.
Deck Lift Assist Spring
Figure 13.3
Figure 12.4
13.4. Remove the handle from the rear fenders using

a 3/8 wrench. The screws are accessible from
inside the rear fender. See Figure 13.4.
12.5. Remove the E-clip that holds each shouldered

hex bushing into the tractor frame. Replace one
bushing at a time.
Handle Screws
12.6. Pry the worn bushing out of the hole.

12.7. Clean any dirt or corrosion from the surface of
the lift shaft that contacts the bushing.
NOTE: Because of the dusty environment that
many mowers operate in, grease applied to this
bushing may accelerate wear rather than prevent it. If any lubricant is used between the shaft
and the bushing, it should be a dry graphite or
PTFE based lube.
12.8. Insert the new bushings, and secure them with
the E-clips.
12.9. Check deck levelness, and make any necessary
adjustments before returning the tractor to service.
13.
Figure 13.4
DECK LIFT CABLES AND PULLEYS

NOTE: The deck lift cables and pulleys can be
replaced without removing the rear fenders.
13.1. To remove the deck lift cables, remove the cutting deck.
13.2. Lift and safely support the rear of the tractor.
17

13.5. Remove the notched plate that the deck height
control lever seats against in the fender, using a
1/2 socket. See Figure 13.5.
13.10. Remove the hairpin clip that secures the pin to

the lift arm, and remove the cable.
13.11. Installation notes:
Reverse the removal process to install the

cables and pulleys.
Because of the dusty environment that many

mowers operate in, grease applied to the cable
or pulley may accelerate wear rather than prevent it. If any lubricant is used on the pulley, it
should be a dry graphite or PTFE based lube.
Replace the pulleys and cables if they show

signs of wear.
Check deck level before returning the tractor to

service.
Tighten fasteners to the following torques:

Lug nuts
75ft-lbs (Nm)
Screws, handle to fender 60 in-lbs (Nm)
Screws, plate to fender 144in-lbs (Nm)
Shoulder bolts, pulley
144 in-lbs (Nm)
13.7. Remove the pulley that carries the deck lift cable
using a 1/2 wrench and a 5/8 wrench.
14.
LEVELING THE CUTTING DECK
13.8. Remove the E-clip from the same end of the lift
shaft that the cable is being removed from. This
will allow the lift shaft to be pushed-in slightly,
providing clearance for the pin.
Check the tire pressure. The front tires will be

approximately 14 PSI, and the rear tires will be
approximately 10 PSI.
13.9. Remove the hairpin clip that secures the pin on

the top end of the cable to the arm on the deck
lift shaft. See Figure 13.9.
Place the tractor on a level surface.
Depress and lock the parking brake.
Place the cutting deck in cutting position 3 or 4.
Figure 13.5
13.6. Push the deck height control lever as far forward
as it will go, and secure the lever in that position.
NOTE: Prior to leveling the mowing deck, perform the following steps:
SIDE TO SIDE ADJUSTMENT

IMPORTANT: The cutting deck must be even
side to side.
Deck Lift Cable
Figure 13.9
NOTE: Early models used a removable clevis
pin. Current production cables have captive
pins.
18

14.1. Using a work glove or rag, rotate the blades until
they are cutting edge tip to cutting edge tip (perpendicular) to the tractor. See Figure 14.1.
FRONT TO REAR ADJUSTMENT

IMPORTANT: The front of the deck will be
between 1/4 and 3/8 lower in the front than the
rear of the deck.
14.6. Using a work glove or a rag, rotate the blades
until they are parallel with the tractor frame. See
Figure 14.6.
Blades parallel with frame

Figure 14.1
14.2. Measure the outer blade tips to ground. Both
measurements taken should be equal.
NOTE: If an adjustment is needed, perform the
following steps:
Figure 14.6
14.3. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the hex cap screw

on the left deck hanger bracket using a 1/2 and
a 3/4 wrench. See Figure 14.3.
14.7. Measure the front blade tips to the ground.

14.8. Measure the rear blade tips to the ground.
14.9. Make certain the front blade tips are 1/4 to 3/8
lower than the rear blade tips.
NOTE: If an adjustment is needed, perform the
following steps:
14.10. There two types of stabilizer rods. A U-bolt type
and a J-bolt type. See Figure 14.10.
Adjustment Gear
Hex Cap Screw
Figure 14.3
U-Bolt Stabilizer
14.4. Rotate the 3/4 deck adjustment gear right or left
until the deck is level side to side and both blade
tips to ground are equal in measurement.
J-Bolt Stabilizer
14.5. Retighten the hex cap screw on the left deck

hanger using a 1/2 and a 3/4 wrench when the
proper adjustment has been achieved.
Figure 14.10
19
For the U-bolt style:
14.11. Loosen both lock nuts securing the adjustment

nuts on the front of the deck stabilizer bracket
using a two 3/4 wrenches.
For the J-bolt Style:
14.15. The J-bolt style stabilizer is adjusted in a similar

fashion. Loosen the single lock nut away from
the adjustment nut using two 3/4 wrenches.
Lock Nut
Adjustment Nut
Lock Nuts
Adjustment Nuts
Figure 14.11
Figure 14.15
14.12. Locate both adjustment nuts on the front side of

the deck stabilizer bracket. See Figure 14.11.
14.16. To lower the front of the deck loosen the adjustment nut on the J-bolt. To raise the front of the
deck tighten the lock nut. Tighten the lock nut
against the adjustment nut when finished.
14.13. Tighten both nuts to raise the front of the deck or

loosen both nuts to lower the front of the deck
using a 3/4 wrench.
15.
NOTE: Make sure you count the number of turns

you put on the first nut and put the same number
on the second nut. both nuts must be moved
equally.
DASH PANEL REMOVAL
15.1. Remove fender, as described in the FENDER

REMOVAL section of this manual.
15.2. For the 1500 remove the hood and battery, as
described in the HOOD REMOVAL section of
this manual.
14.14. Retighten both lock nuts to jam the adjustment

nuts into position when the proper adjustment
has been achieved.
For the 1000 remove the fuel tank by first removing the fuel cap. place a piece of plastic over fuel
tank opening and put fuel cap back on.
Remove the four 1/2 screws holding the fuel

tank in place.
Lift the fuel tank and place on top of engine or

clamp the fuel line and remove it from the fuel
pump and remove fuel tank from unit.
15.3. Pry the cap off the center of the steering wheel.
20

15.4. Remove the steering wheel from the steering
shaft using a 1/2 wrench. See Figure 15.4.
15.6. Disconnect the rods that connect the Park Brake

and Cruise Control mechanisms to the levers on
the dash that control those features by removing
the hairpin clips. See Figure 15.6.
Hairpin clips
Figure 15.4
Figure 15.6
15.5. Disconnect the following dash-mounted electrical devices by unplugging the molded connectors: See Figure 15.5.
15.7. Remove the knob from the throttle lever using a

phillips head screwdriver, then remove the
screws that hold the throttle assembly to the
dash panel. See Figure 15.7.
Molded connectors
Throttle
Lever
Figure 15.5
NOTE: Image shows 1500 dash. 1000 series
dash components are in a similar location.
Key switch and OCR module
PTO Switch
Hour meter / Monitor
Accessory power port - if present.
Figure 15.7
15.8. On models with a separate choke cable, disconnect the choke cable at the engine end. If the
technician prefers, they may also choose to disconnect the throttle cable at the engine end.
15.9. Remove the remaining screws that hold the
dash panel to the tractor, and remove the dash.
21
Two socket-head cap screws (T-40) at each side

of the base of the dash panel (four total).
Two hex-head cap screws holding the rear

flange of the dash to the frame (1/2 wrench)
Two hex-head cap screws holding the top of the

dash to the dash support (3/8 wrench).
See Figure 15.9.
16.4. Remove the hair pin clips holding the linkages to

the levers in the dash. See Figure 16.4.
Hairpin Clips
Hex-head cap screw
Figure 16.4
16.5. Remove the screw holding the pivot rod in place.
See Figure 16.5.
Figure 15.9
Pivot Rod Hex Screw
15.10. Reverse the removal process to install the dash
panel.
Test the operation of all safety features in a safe

area that is clear of obstacles and bystanders
before returning the tractor to service.
Test the operation of all controls in a safe area

that is clear of obstacles and bystanders before
returning the tractor to service.
16.
CRUISE CONTROL AND PARK BRAKE LINKAGES

Figure 16.5
16.1. Open the hood.

16.2. On the 1000 series you need to remove the fuel
tank. on the 1500 series you need to remove the
battery.
16.6. Remove the hair pin clip in the pivot rod.

16.7. Work the pivot rod out. sliding it out to the right.
the levers will fall out as the rod clears them.
16.3. The procedure for removing the park brake linkage and the cruise control linkage is the same.
you can remove both at the same time.
16.8. Raise the unit off of the ground.

16.9. Remove the brake and drive pedals.
22

16.10. Remove the cotter pins in the brake pedal shaft
and the drive pedal shafts. See Figure 16.10..
16.16. Remove the lock nut from the bottom of the

steering shaft. Then slide off the steering shaft
gear. See Figure 16.16.
Cotter Pins
Lock Nut
Hex Nut
Figure 16.10
Figure 16.16
16.11. Slide the drive pedal to the right. The inboard
bushing and washer can now be removed. Continue working the drive pedal shaft to the right
and slip it out of the unit.
16.17. Reaching up through the opening where the

pedal shafts were, place a 9/16 wrench on the
head of the bolt located in the center rear of the
subframe. Using a 9/16 socket, remove the nut.
See Figure 16.16.
16.12. Remove the hair pin clip in the brake rod and
disconnect it from the brake pedal shaft.
NOTE: There is a sleeve on this bolt that acts as

a spacer between the sub-frame and frame. Be
aware of this sleeve when you lower the subframe in a later step.
16.13. Remove the return spring from the brake pedal

shaft.
16.14. Slide the brake pedal shaft to the right and
remove the inboard bushing and washer. Continue sliding the brake pedal shaft to the right
and work it off of the unit.
16.18. There are four screws holding the subframe to

the tractor.Two on each side. Loosen the two
front screws and remove the two rear screws.
See Figure 16.18.
16.15. Remove both drag links from the tractor.

NOTE: Make sure to keep the drag links separate so the you know which one is for the left and
which one is for the right. they are not marked
and they are not interchangeable.
Loosen these two.

Sub Frame Hex Screws
Remove these two.
Figure 16.18
23

16.19. Pivot the subframe down. Be careful of the
spacer on the bolt and the hex flange bushing for
the steering shaft, they will fall out.
17.3. Remove the battery hold-down, remove the battery and the battery tray. See Figure 17.3.
16.20. You now have access to the cruise linkage and

cam lock. You also have access the park brake
linkage and locking plate. See Figure 16.20.
Battery Hold Down
Cruise Control Rod.
Parking Brake Rod
Cam Lock
Figure 17.3
17.4. Pull the upper drive belt tensioner pulley rearwards to provide slack in the belt, and roll the
belt off of the tensioner pulley. See Figure 17.4.
Figure 16.20
16.21. Remove the hair pin clips on the linkages.
Remove the linkages.
Tensioner pulley
16.22. Remove the nut and bolt holding the cruise cam
and/or the park brake locking plate.
CAUTION: Make sure the linkage rods are
routed properly before you swing the subframe
17.
TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT:

CVT
NOTE: There are two drive belts in the CVT system. Because they work together on the variable
speed pulley, wear to one belt effects the performance of the other belt. It is strongly recommended that the belts be replaced as a set.
Figure 17.4
17.1. Remove the cutting deck from the tractor.
17.5. Carefully release the tensioner pulley.
17.2. Tilt-up the seat and disconnect the battery

cables (ground cable first) using a 7/16 wrench.
24

17.6. Using the slack created by taking the belt off the
tensioner pulley, slip the belt off of the transaxle
input pulley and the upper sheave of the variable
speed pulley and remove the belt from the tractor. You may need to remove the transmission
input pulley to get enough clearance to remove
the belt. See Figure 17.6.
17.8. Lift the sliding center partition of the variable

speed pulley as far as it will go. This should provide enough clearance to slip the lower belt off of
the variable speed pulley.
Variable speed pulley
Transmission input pulley
17.9. Locate the double idler pulley bracket beneath

the tractor. See Figure 17.9.
Figure 17.6
17.7. Loosen but do not remove the bracket that supports the variable speed pulley using a 1/2
wrench. See Figure 17.7.
Loosen these bolts
Double
idler
Figure 17.9
NOTE: This is the pair of pulleys that moves in
reaction to drive pedal input from the operator.
The further the pedal is depressed, the further
the bracket pivots, applying more tension to
the belt.
Figure 17.7
NOTE: On 2004 and earlier CVT models, the
variable speed pulley was mounted directly to
the transaxle housing. On those tractors,
remove the variable speed pulley from the tractor using a pair of 9/16 wrenches.
17.10. Slip the lower drive belt off of the pulleys.

NOTE: On some 2004 and earlier models, it
may be necessary to loosen but not remove the
rear-most of the two pulleys (riding against the
flat side of the belt) to provide clearance to
remove the belt.
25

17.11. Disconnect the plug for the PTO clutch wire. It is
located on the right side of the tractor, just above
the opening in the frame that the wire passes
through to reach the PTO clutch.
See Figure 17.11.
NOTE: On some models you may have to

remove the belt guide on the engine. Remove
the 1/2 bolt securing the belt guide to the frame
on the left hand side and slide the guide out of
the hole on the right hand side. See Figure
17.12.
PTO clutch plug
Bolt
Figure 17.11
Figure 17.12
17.12. Remove the bolt that holds the PTO clutch to the
crankshaft using a 5/8 wrench.
See Figure 17.12.
17.13. Carefully lower the PTO clutch and any associated hardware off of the crankshaft.
17.14. Lower the drive pulley far enough to allow the
belt to slip past the keepers that are stamped
into the frame. Slip the belt off of the pulley and
remove the pulley. See Figure 17.14.
Stamped
belt
keepers
Figure 17.12
NOTE: If an impact wrench is unavailable it may
be necessary to use an improvised piston stop
or to hold the flywheel.
Figure 17.14
NOTE: Keep track of the position of any spacers
or washers that accompany the PTO clutch and
crankshaft pulley. Several different configurations have been used.
26

17.15. Remove the belt from the tractor.
NOTE: There were a small number of tractors
made using a CVT drive and a 2-speed
(L-H-N-R) GT transaxle. The belt must pass over
the center mounted gear selector on these models for removal. Remove the knob from the gear
selector, and remove the shift gait from the
fender assembly to provide clearance.
The tractors forward ground speed should vary

smoothly between 0 and 5.2 MPH when the
drive pedal is depressed progressively to the
end of its travel.
It is normal for the cruise control to hold a mowing speed that is about 10% less than the 5.2
MPH transport speed.
If the tractor performs as described, no adjustment is required.
17.16. Assembly notes:
Install the belts by reversing the order of the

removal process.
The engine drive pulley is installed on the drive

shaft with the key side facing down.
Line up the key on the PTO clutch during assembly.
There is a large flat washer that goes on top of

the PTO clutch during assembly.
18.2. Diagnosis: If the tractor does not move at all,

and the engine does not seem to be laboring as
the pedal is depressed, the issue may be in the
CVT belt system, the shift linkage leading to the
transaxle, or within the transaxle itself.
18.3. To isolate the CVT belt system:
Turn-off the engine.
Release the parking brake.
Torque the PTO clutch bolt during assembly.
Place the gear selector in any motion gear.
When installing the belt guide, make sure that it

passes through the cutout in the PTO clutch. this
acts as a anti-rotation bracket. See Figure 17.16.
Attempt to push the tractor.
If the tractor rolls, examine the shift linkage.
If the wheels lock when a gear is engaged, the

transaxle and shift linkage are not likely to be the
problem.
18.4. If the tractor does not move at all, and the

engine seems to be laboring as the pedal is
depressed, the issue may be in the brake, or
within the transaxle itself:
Cutout
Turn-off the engine.
Place the gear selector in Neutral.
If the tractor rolls with difficulty, examine the

brakes as described in the BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: CVT section of this manual.
Figure 17.16
18.
DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: CVT
18.5. If the problem can be isolated to CVT belt drive

system, make a visual inspection of the CVT belt
drive system:
18.1. Make an operational test of the tractor:
The tractor should not creep when the transmission is in gear and the drive pedal is not
depressed.
On level ground, with the brake released, the

gear selector should slip smoothly into gear. It is
normal for gear engagement to be more difficult
on a grade, or with the brakes applied because it
is more difficult for the drive dogs to engage
under load or bind.
27
Turn the engine off, and allow it to cool before

starting to work on the tractor.
Remove the cutting deck.
Lift the seat.
Disconnect the battery cables, negative cable

first, using a 7/16 wrench
Remove the battery hold-down.
loads (from torquing the nut) directly to the pulley, not the adaptor.
Remove the battery and battery tray from the

tractor.
18.6. Inspect the upper drive belt: See Figure 18.6.
18.8. Repair any problems found. If the upper drive

belt is correct and in serviceable condition, reinstall it. If the upper drive belt needs to be
replaced, the lower drive belt should be replaced
as well. Refer to the TRACTION DRIVE BELT
REPLACEMENT section of this manual.
18.9. Operate the drive pedal while observing the
movement of the components controlled by the
drive pedal. See Figure 18.9.
Observe
movement
Figure 18.6
Is the upper drive belt correctly positioned on the

tensioner pulley, transaxle input shaft pulley, and
the upper sheave of the variable speed pulley?
Inspect the type and condition of the belt.
Check the bearing on the tensioner pulley.
Check the tensioner pulley arm: it should return

readily to static position under spring tension.
Figure 18.9
18.10. The double idler bracket should move with about
10 lbs pressure applied to the pedal, and return
under spring pressure as the pedal is released.
See Figure 18.10.
The center partition of the variable speed pulley

should move up with light force and down under
its own weight.
18.7. The pulley on the transaxle input shaft should be

firmly attached.
Early production tractors used a splined joint

between the pulley and the input shaft.
Current production tractors carry the pulley on a

separate hub that fits over the splined shaft.
NOTE: The nut securing the pulley should be
tightened to a torque of 10-15 ft.-lbs using an 11/
16 wrench. Over-torquing the nut may shear the
input shaft. Replace the belleville washer
between the nut and the pulley if it is flattened.
NOTE: Some models used a special fully finished nut with an extended washer face. Do not
replace this nut with a standard nut unless a
washer is added between the nut and the pulley.
The washer must have a big enough O.D. to fit
over the star shape on the pulley adaptor, and
must be sufficiently thick to transfer compression
Figure 18.10
28

18.11. The empty hole in the double idler bracket
should swing through an arc of 1 3/8 when 10
lbs. of force is applied to the drive pedal.
See Figure 18.11.
18.15. The forward end of the speed control rod connects to a pin attached to the speed control
assembly.
NOTE: On 2005 production units you can
remove the nut on the ball joint and lift it out of
the idler bracket on an angle, then skip to step
15.16. See Figure 18.15.
1 3/8 movement
2005 production
Figure 18.11
18.12. If the measurement is not 1 3/8, check the type
and condition of the lower drive belt. If the lower
drive belt is worn or incorrect, replace both drive
belts before adjusting the speed control. Refer to
the TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT:
CVT section of this manual.
Figure 18.15
18.13. If the belts are serviceable and correct, adjust

the length of the speed control rod to achieve the
correct double idler bracket travel as described
in the following steps:
18.14. Loosen the jam nut that locks the speed control
rod into the rod-end joint at the double idler
bracket with a pair of 9/16 wrenches.
See Figure 18.14.
Early production models may have a hairpin clip

and washer adjacent to the cam plate that prevents the speed control linkage from moving
when the parking brake is applied.
Remove the hairpin clip and washer if so

equipped.
Disconnect the pin from the speed control

assembly using a pair of 9/16 wrenches.
18.16. Thread the rod in or out of the rod-end as

required to achieve the correct linkage travel.
18.17. When adjustment is complete:
Jam nut
Figure 18.14
29
Secure the linkage and tighten any loosened

fasteners.
Install the battery tray and battery.
Test the operation of the drive system in a safe

area that is free of obstacles, hazards, and bystanders.
After successful testing, install the cutting deck,

test all safety features, and return the mower to
service.

19.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: CVT
19.8. CVT-driven transaxles use a self locking nut on

the brake adjustment. See Figure 19.8.
19.1. On CVT-driven lawn and garden tractors, most

of the braking force is generated within the transaxle: when the drive pedal is released, the drive
ratio changes, slowing the tractor. The brake
brings the tractor to a complete stop, and functions as a parking brake.
19.2. When properly adjusted, the brake should do
two things: it should stop and hold the tractor
when applied, and it should not drag when
released.
Lock nut
19.3. To check that the brakes hold the tractor:
Set the parking brake.
The wheels should skid without rotating.
If the brakes do not hold the tractor, the brake

needs to be adjusted or repaired.
Figure 19.8
19.9. Insert a .013 feeler gauge between the brake
rotor and the outer brake pad. There should be
slight drag on the feeler gauge.
19.4. To check that the brakes do not drag:
Attempt to push the tractor - it should move with

less than 20 lbs. of force. More force indicates
drag.
If the brakes drag, they need to be adjusted or

repaired.
19.10. If the feeler gauge is too loose, or will not go in,

brake caliper adjustment is necessary.
19.11. A 1/2 wrench will turn the adjustment nut.
See Figure 19.11.
19.5. There is no linkage adjustment. All adjustment is

done at the brake caliper.
19.6. To reach the brake caliper, lift and safely support
the right rear corner of the tractor.
19.7. Remove the right rear wheel of the tractor using
a 3/4 socket.
Figure 19.11
19.12. Tighten the nut to reduce the clearance. Loosen
the nut to increase the clearance.
30

19.13. Check the movement of the brake arm:
The brake arm should move forward as the

brake is applied.
The return spring should draw the brake arm

back against the spacer when the brakes are
released.
19.17. Remove the caliper from the transaxle. The

brake actuator arm can now be unhooked from
the spring that connects it to the linkage. See
Figure 19.17.
19.14. Visually check the thickness of the brake pads:

they are visible within the caliper.
19.15. Check the brake rotor:
Confirm that the brake rotor floats on the splined

shaft by sliding it in and out with light finger pressure.
If it binds on the shaft it may cause brake drag

and reduced holding performance.
A rotor that has been dragging will frequently be

discolored by the heat (blue).
Caliper
19.16. If the brakes are dragging or worn, or if the rotor

needs to be removed from the shaft, remove the
two bolts that hold the caliper to the transaxle
using a 3/8 wrench. See Figure 19.16.
Figure 19.17
19.18. The rotor should slip-off of the splined shaft, providing access to the fixed brake pad.
See Figure 19.18.
2 Bolts
Fixed brake pad

Figure 19.16
Figure 19.18
31

19.19. A crease in the brake arm acts as a cam. At rest,
the ends of the two pins ride in the peak of the
crease:
See Figure 19.19.
20.
SERVICING THE BRAKE PEDAL SHAFT BUSHINGS:
If there is insufficient travel in the linkage to fully

apply the brakes, a simple visual inspection
should identify the cause.
20.1. Confirm that the brake pedal is firmly attached to

the pedal shaft. See Figure 20.1.
Brake Pedal
Figure 19.19
The brake arm pivots on a square-headed stud.
The two pins are forced against the backing

plate when force is applied to the arm.
The backing plate rides between the pins and

the pad, to prevent the pins from damaging the
brake pad.
Figure 20.1
20.2. Remove the cutting deck to reach the brake
pedal shaft, bushings, and bracket.
19.20. Replace the pads if they are worn. They frequently last many years unless the brakes have
been dragging.
20.3. Check for excessive play in the bushings.

Replace them if they are worn.
NOTE: It is suggested that if any of these bushings need to be replaced, replace all of the pedal
shaft bushings at this time. The speed control
pedal shaft bushings are replaced in a similar
manner.
19.21. Be sure the pin bores are clear of dirt and corrosion: either may cause the pins to bind and the
brakes to drag.
19.22. On assembly, apply a small amount of dry
graphite lubricant to the pins and the spots on
the brake arm that they contact. Do not allow
any lubricant to get on the brake pad.
19.23. Install the brake caliper, tightening the two nuts
to 7 to 10 ft.-lbs., then check and adjust the padto-rotor clearance.
19.24. Install the rear wheel, tightening the lug nuts to a
torque of 350 to 500 In.-lbs. Lower the tractor to
the ground.
19.25. After any brake service is performed, test the
brakes as described in steps 24.2 through 24.4,
then test-drive the tractor in a safe area that is
free of hazards, obstacles, and by-standers
32

20.4. The inboard brake pedal shaft bushing can be
removed by removing the cotter pin and washer
that secure it. See Figure 20.4.
20.6. Press the brake pedal shaft as far outward as

possible, and pry the worn bushing out of the
Bushing
Figure 20.4
Figure 20.6
20.5. The brake rod must be disconnected to remove

the outboard brake pedal shaft bushing.
Remove and discard the cotter pin that holds the
brake rod to the brake pedal shaft.
See Figure 20.5.
NOTE: A pair of vice-grips and a plate can be

used to press the end of the shaft flush with the
edge of the bracket
NOTE: The inner bushing is a hex flange bushing. The outer bushing is similar, but has one
open side. The tooth in the top facet of the
bracket that supports the bushing registers in
open side of the bushing.
Brake rod
20.7. Clean any corrosion or dirt from the surfaces

where the pedal shaft contacts the bushing, and
slip the new bushings into place. See Figure
20.7.
Figure 20.5
Figure 20.7
33

21.2. Remove the battery hold down, battery and battery tray from the unit. See Figure 21.2.
NOTE: Lubrication with grease may accelerate

bushing wear. If lubrication is applied it should
be in dry form such as graphite or PTFE (Teflon).
20.8. Secure the inner bushing with a new cotter pin
and the flat washer that was previously
removed.
Battery hold down
20.9. Move the pedal through its range of travel to

check for binding. If binding is encountered:
Bind in just a portion of the travel may be caused

by a bent pedal shaft.
Constant bind is likely to be caused by a bent

bracket.
Also check for interference between the parking

brake and cruise control interlocks.
Figure 21.2
20.10. Correct any binding condition.

21.3. Take tension off of the transmission belt idler
and remove the belt from around the idler pulley.
See Figure 21.3.
20.11. Connect the brake rod to the brake pedal shaft,

and secure it with a new cotter pin.
21.
TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT: CVT
The single speed transaxles used in our CVT

riders has evolved over the years. Internals have
changed. Some have had the Variable Speed
Pulley integrated into the transaxle. If you are
replacing a transaxle it is very important to carefully match the transmission part numbers
between the old and new. A part number on the
transmission case might be the number of the
case half. Visually compare the IPL drawing with
the actual transaxle to assure a match.
Before condemning a transaxle, check to make

sure the brake is not locking up the transaxle.
Check the drive belts for damage or wear and

make sure they are the correct belts and are not
the cause of drive problems.
When replacing a transaxle within the warranty

period, we have a like-kind exchange program.
Out of warranty transaxles can be serviced.
Idler pulley
Figure 21.3
21.1. Disconnect the battery cables (negative first and

then positive).
34

21.4. Using a 7/8 socket and extension, remover the
nut securing the transmission pulley to the transmission. See Figure 21.4.
21.7. Disconnect the brake linkage where it connects

to the brake spring. See Figure 21.7.
Transmission pulley
Brake linkage
Figure 21.7
Figure 21.4
21.8. Use white-out to mark the position of the ferrule

on the transmission shift rod.
21.5. Remove the pulley from the unit.

21.6. Support the frame of the unit to allow removal of
both rear wheels. See Figure 21.6.
21.9. Remove the hairpin clip securing the transmission shift rod to the transmission. See Figure
21.9.
Hairpin clip
Figure 21.6
Figure 21.9
NOTE: Leave room under the rider to allow lowering the transaxle from the unit.
21.10. Using a 1/2 socket, remove the two hex screws

securing the front of the transmission housing to
the transmission support bracket. See Figure
21.9.
21.11. Support the transmission from below.
35

21.12. Using a 1/2 socket and 1/2 wrench, remove the
four hex nuts securing the transmission to the
frame. See Figure 21.12.
22.
TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND INTERNALS:

CVT
Transaxles needing service within the warranty

period qualify for like-kind exchange.
If you are servicing transaxle internals, keep in

mind that different transaxles/components have
been used over the years.
Carefully compare the transaxle with the illustrated parts list when ordering components.
23.

HYDROSTATIC LT
23.1. Turn-off the engine and allow all parts to cool

before beginning work.
Nuts
Figure 21.12
23.2. Remove the cutting deck.
CAUTION: The transmission must be supported

during removal of the bolts. Use a helper if necessary.
23.3. Identify and unplug the wires leading to the electric PTO clutch. See Figure 23.3.
21.13. Lower the transmission from the rider. See Figure 21.13.
PTO clutch wires

Figure 23.3
Figure 21.13
NOTE: There is a backing plate on the top of the
frame. There may be a spacer between the
frame and the transmission housing.
21.14. Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly.
NOTE: If it appears that the drive belts are worn,
we recommend replacing both of them when
servicing the transaxle. Use original OEM belts
to assure proper operation of the rider.
36

23.4. Remove the electric PTO clutch from the engine
crankshaft using a 5/8 wrench. See Figure 23.4.
23.6. Carefully release the spring that maintains tension on the double idler bracket using a length of
starter rope or an appropriate tool.
See Figure 23.6.
5/8 Head bolt
Figure 23.4
Figure 23.6
NOTE: Lower the clutch carefully, keeping track

of the hardware on the crankshaft. There are
variations between engines, clutches and years:
Spacers above or below the traction drive pulley.
Integral or separate key on traction drive pulley.
Different PTO clutch anti-rotation brackets.
23.7. Slip the drive belt from between the double idler
pulleys.
NOTE: On some early models, the rear-most
pulley (rides against V side of belt) was large
enough that the double idler bracket acted as a
belt keeper. On those models, it is necessary to
loosen the nut and bolt that secure that pulley to
the bracket in order to slip the belt past the edge
of the bracket.
23.5. Slip the belt off of the single fixed idler.

See Figure 23.5.
NOTE: Pulleys may be steel or plastic, depending on when the tractor was built.
Figure 23.5
37

23.8. Slip the crankshaft pulley down far enough to get
the belt off of the pulley, and remove the belt
from the crankshaft. See Figure 23.8.
23.10. The belt for the G.T. models of the 1500 Series
line is Kevlar wrapped. Substituting the polywrapped belt used on the L.T. models is not recommended, but the Kevlar belt is an acceptable
premium upgrade for the L.T. tractors.
See Figure 23.10.
Stamped Belt Guards

Figure 23.8
Kevlar wrapped belt
NOTE: Belt keepers that are part of the tractor
frame prevent the belt from being removed without lowering the pulley.
Figure 23.10
23.11. If the traction drive belt failed prematurely, identify the cause of its demise before installing a
replacement. Check the condition of all of the
idler pulleys.
NOTE: The pulley may be removed from the

crankshaft at the discretion of the technician.
If there is a spacer above the pulley, the end with

the radiused inside edge mates with the radiused step on the crankshaft.
23.12. The fixed idler pulley can be removed from later

models using a single 1/2 wrench. The bolt that
holds the fixed idler to earlier models threads
into a 3/8 nut above the tractor frame. The bolt
can be removed from the nut using a pair of
9/16 wrenches without removing the fenders.
See Figure 23.12.
If one end of the pulley has a radiused inside

edge, that is the end that mates with the radiused step on the crankshaft.
23.9. Carefully work the belt over the top of the cooling
fan on the transaxle, and remove it from the tractor.
See Figure 23.9.
Fixed idler
Figure 23.12
Figure 23.9
38

23.13. The double idler pivot bracket is held to the
frame by the same bolt that holds the fore-most
of the two pulleys. The rear pulley can be easily
removed from the bracket. It is necessary to take
the fenders off to remove the front pulley or the
bracket itself.
24.3. There is no adjustment to the relief valve, but full

travel of the linkage should be checked if the
drive system is losing power or ground speed.
See Figure 24.3.
23.14. Install the drive belt by reversing the order of the

removal process.
Apply anti-seize compound to the crankshaft

before installing the PTO clutch.
Tighten the crankshaft bolt to a torque of 38-50

ft.-lbs. on assembly.
Test the drive system and all tractor safety features in a clear area that is free of hazards and
by standers before returning the tractor to service.
24.
DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT:

HYDROSTATIC LT
Relief valve linkage
Figure 24.3
24.1. The relief valve is operated using a small rod

that is visible at the bottom right corner of the
rear of the tractor frame. See Figure 24.1.
24.4. Symptoms of a linkage that is out of adjustment

include:
Low ground speed in either direction with no

unusual noises from the transaxle. One possible
cause for low ground speed is a linkage that
does not transfer all of the pedal travel to the
input arm on the transaxle.
Creeping when the transaxle is in neutral

position.
Whining or growling when the tractor is in Neutral with the brake applied.
The creeping and whining symptoms usually

accompany one-another, indicating that the linkage is not properly centered around Neutral.
Low ground speed in one direction only (Forward or Reverse) may accompany whining,
growling or creeping in Neutral if the linkage is
out of adjustment.
Low ground speed, accompanied by excessive

noise is likely to be an internal problem or a
brake that is dragging or out of adjustment.
Relief valve rod
Figure 24.1
24.2. Pulling the rod out and locking it in the upper
portion of the keyhole enables the tractor to be
pushed, but disables the hydraulics of the drive
system by opening a valve that releases the
hydraulic pressure from the motor circuit.
24.5. Begin linkage adjustment by inspecting the linkage. Linkages on equipment that has been in the
field are usually out of adjustment because the
linkage is binding, worn, bent, or tampered with.
24.6. Replace any worn or damaged parts before
adjusting the linkage.
39

24.7. Turn-off the engine and allow it to cool before
starting to work on the tractor. To gain access to
the control linkage, perform the following three
steps:
24.15. Set the parking brake, and remove the drive

pedal using a T-40 driver. See Figure 24.15.
T-40 Screws

24.10. Remove the rear wheels using a 3/4 wrench.
24.11. Move the control pedal through its range of
travel (with the parking brake released) and look
for the following conditions that will cause loss of
linkage motion:
Pedal loose on the pedal shaft.
Loose arm that connects the pedal shaft to the

control rod.
Worn bushings supporting the pedal shaft.
Worn ferrule or an elongated hole where ferrule

connects to pedal shaft.
Figure 24.15
24.16. Remove and discard the cotter pins that hold the
inboard bushing in place on both the speed control assembly and the brake control assembly.
See Figure 24.16.
24.12. Disconnect the control rod from the pedal shaft

by removing the cotter pin that secures the
adjustable ferrule on the rod to the shaft.
See Figure 24.12.
Cotter pins
Adjustable
ferrule
Figure 24.16
Figure 24.12
24.13. Confirm that the pedal shaft moves freely in the
bushings, and does not bind.
24.14. Worn pedal shaft bushings are easily replaced
using the following 5 steps.
NOTE: It is recommended to replace all four
bushings at the same time.
40

24.17. Remove the washers and inboard bushings from
both shafts. See Figure 24.17.
24.21. Install the drive pedal, tightening the screw that

secures it to a torque of 250 in-lbs.
check for bind. If binding is encountered:
Bind in a portion of the travel may be caused by

a bent pedal shaft.

bracket.
Also check for interference between the park

24.23. Correct any source of binding. The pedal shaft is

easily removed at this point. The bracket may be
straightened if damage is minor.
24.24. Confirm that no unsafe conditions will arise from
starting the engine.
Figure 24.17
24.25. Start the engine, and operate it at top-no-load

speed. Note the operation of the transaxle with
the pedal linkage disconnected: An assistant
may be required.
24.18. Slide both shafts outboard far enough to create

clearance to remove the outer shaft bushings,
and remove the bushings. See Figure 24.18.
Growling or whining with brake applied indicates

that the input arm on the transaxle needs adjustment.
Movement of the left rear wheel or the right drive

hub with the brake released indicates that the
input arm on the transaxle needs adjustment.
With the hydro control rod disconnected from the

pedal shaft, the input arm on the transaxle
should return to Neutral.
24.26. If the transaxle does not return properly to neutral, adjust the input arm to correct the issue,
then proceed with the following step. Review the
next section for procedures.
24.27. If the transaxle returns properly to neutral:
Figure 24.18
NOTE: The inner bushings are hex flange bushings. The outer bushings are similar, but are
open on one side. The tooth in the top facet of
the bracket that supports the bushing registers in
the open side of each bushing.
slip the new bushings into place.
busing wear. If lubrication is applied it should be
in dry form such as graphite or PTFE (Teflon).
24.20. Secure the pedal shafts with new cotter pins and
previously removed washers.
41
Adjust (if necessary) and reconnect the hydro

control rod.
Install the right rear wheel on the tractor, tightening the lug nuts to a torque of 350 - 500 in.-lbs.
Lower the tractor to the ground and test the

operation of the drive system in a safe area that
is free of hazards, obstacles, and by-standers.
Install the cutting deck, test all safety features,

and return the tractor to service if everything
works properly.

25.
HYDRO CONTROL ROD ADJUSTMENT
If the unit creeps in the neutral position, one of

two things may have happened: 1. The hydro
control rod has been bent, causing the unit to
creep or 2. The neutral position adjustment on
the hydro has changed.
25.5. If there is, thread the ferrule up or down the

length of the hydro control rod until the post is
centered in the hole that it fits into. At this point,
the transaxle and the linkage should both be
synchronized in neutral. See Figure 25.5.
25.1. Set the parking brake. The cam in the parking

brake mechanism will lock the pin on the pedal
shaft into neutral. See Figure 25.1.
Adjust ferrule
Pin locked into neutral
Figure 25.5
25.6. Secure the ferrule to the arm on the pedal shaft
using a new cotter pin.
Figure 25.1
25.7. Test drive the unit to see if it still creeps. If it does

you will have to adjust the input arm on the
hydro: Confirm that the roller on the return arm
draws fully into the valley in the cam surface on
the front of the input arm. See Figure 25.7.
25.2. There should now be no tension on the hydro

control rod.If there appears to be tension, look
for a damaged or bent rod.
25.3. Remove the cotter pin securing the ferrule to the
pivot arm on the pedal shaft.
25.4. Remove the ferrule from the hole in the
arm.There should be no tension on the rod
where it connects to the pivot arm.
Roller
Figure 25.7
42

25.8. As the hydro control rod moves back on the
input arm, it first moves a ground contact against
the reverse safety switch. See Figure 25.8.
If the roller is moved lower, the input arm will

move in the direction that causes reverse drive.
25.12. The roller is moved up or down by rotating the

house-shaped eccentric that the neutral return
arm pivots on. See Figure 25.12.
Reverse switch
Figure 25.8
25.9. After the switch contacts the ground, the hydro
control rod reaches the end of the lost-motion
slot, and begins to push the arm forward, to the
reverse position. Excessive lost motion will
result in loss of ground speed in reverse.
Figure 25.12
25.13. Loosen the eccentric using a 1/4 Allen wrench,
and rotate it to adjust the roller up or down, as
required to center the input arm in neutral.
25.10. As the hydro control rod is pushed rearward, it

draws the cam (front) surface of the input arm
upward, forcing the neutral return arm forward,
applying more tension to the return spring.
See Figure 25.10.
25.14. Tighten the socket head cap screw to lock the

adjustment, and check to confirm that the adjustment is correct.
25.15. After confirming that the transaxle is correctly
adjusted:
Adjust and reconnect the hydro control rod if it

has been removed.
Install the right rear wheel on the tractor if it was

removed.
Test the operation of the drive system in a safe

area that is free of hazards, obstacles, and bystanders.

works properly.
26.
BRAKES AND BRAKE ADJUSTMENT:

HYDROSTATIC LT
Return spring
Figure 25.10
26.1. On hydrostatic garden tractors, most of the braking force is generated within the transaxle: when
in Neutral, with the brakes released, the tractor
will still be very difficult to push unless the relief
valve has been opened. The brake functions
mainly as a parking brake.
25.11. The point that the neutral return arm draws the
input arm to is determined by the position of the
roller on the neutral return arm:
If the roller is moved higher, the input arm will

move in the direction that causes forward drive.
43

released.

Open the relief valve.
If the brakes do not hold the tractor, the adjustment needs to be tightened or the brakes need
to be repaired.
26.11. Remove and discard the cotter pin. A 9/16

wrench will turn the adjustment nut. See Figure
26.11.

about 40 lbs of force. More force indicates drag.

repaired.
26.5. There is no linkage adjustment. All adjustment is

done at the brake caliper.
Figure 26.11



a 3/4 wrench.
26.8. Hydro-Gear transaxles use a castle nut locked

with a cotter pin. See Figure 26.8.

brake is applied.

released.
Castle nut

Figure 26.8
44




needs to be removed from the shaft disconnect
the brake return spring where it attaches to the
transmission housing. See Figure 26.16.
26.20. In order to remove the rotor and gain access to

the fixed brake pad you will have to pry the
retaining clip securing the hydro relief arm to the
hydro relief valve shaft. See Figure 26.20.
Brake return spring
Retaining clip
Figure 26.20
Figure 26.16
26.17. Using a suitable tool, remove the large hydro
return spring where it attaches to the hydro arm.
NOTE: During re-assembly you will have to

replace the retaining clip with a new one.
26.18. Using a 7/16 wrench, remove the two bolts that

hold the caliper to the transaxle. See Figure
26.16.
26.21. The brake rotor should slide-off of the splined

shaft, providing access to the fixed brake pad.
See Figure 26.21.
26.19. Once the caliper is removed form the transaxle,

the brake arm can be unhooked from the spring
that connects it to the brake linkage. See Figure
26.19.
Figure 26.21
Figure 26.19
45

26.22. The crease in the brake arm acts as a cam:
See Figure 26.22.
brakes, a simple visual inspection should identify

the cause.
Brake Pedal
Figure 26.22

Figure 26.31
26.32. Remove the cutting deck to inspect the brake

the pad, to prevent the pins form working
through the brake pad.

been dragging.
27.
PEDAL BUSHING REPLACEMENT
27.1. If any of the pedal bushings are worn, replace all

the bushings.
brakes to drag.
27.2. Remove the brake pedal where it connects to

the brake pedal shaft.
26.25. On assembly, apply a sparing amount of dry

26.26. Install the brake caliper, tightening the two bolts
to 7 to 10 ft.-lbs., then check and adjust the padto-rotor clearance. See Figure 26.11.
26.27. Lock the adjustment nut with a new cotter pin.
torque of 350 to 500 in.-lbs. Lower the tractor to
the ground.
brakes as described in steps 23.3 - 23.4 then
test-drive the tractor in a safe area that is free of
hazards, obstacles, and by-standers before
returning the tractor to service.
26.30. If the brake is adjusted correctly and there is
insufficient travel in the linkage to fully apply the
46

27.3. Remove and discard both cotter pins that secure
the brake pedal shaft and the hydro drive pedal
shaft to the frame. See Figure 27.3.

where the pedal shafts contact the bushings,
and slip the new bushings into place.
See Figure 27.6.
Cotter pins
Clean
Figure 27.3
Figure 27.6
27.4. Remove the large washers and inner bushings

from each shaft.

27.5. Press both shafts as far outward as possible,

and pry the worn bushings out of the bracket.
See Figure 27.5.
27.7. Secure the inner bushings with new cotter pins

and the flat washers that were previously
removed.
Bind in a portion if the travel may be caused by a

bent pedal shaft.

bracket.


Figure 27.5
edge of the bracket to aid removal of the bushings.

brakes as described in Section 23, then testdrive the tractor in a safe area that is free of hazards, obstacles, and by-standers before returning the tractor to service.
28.
TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE:

HYDROSTATIC LT
28.1. In normal use, the transaxle should last the life

of the tractor with minimal maintenance.
47

will fill the over-flow reservoir, but will not add to
the level of fluid in the transaxle.
28.2. Because the transaxle dissipates heat through

air-cooling of the housing, it must be kept clean
of dirt and debris, and the cooling fan should be
replaced immediately if damaged.
NOTE: This oil (fluid) should not have to be

changed in the normal service life of the transaxle unless it develops a leak or becomes contaminated.
28.3. Cleanliness is vitally important when doing any

service work that might expose the fluid or internal parts to any form of contamination. Clean
thoroughly around any fittings, parts, or seals
that are to be removed prior to removal.
28.8. If the transaxle develops a leak, identify and

repair the leak to prevent further damage.
28.9. To drain the oil, Hydro-Gear recommends
removal of the transaxle, for draining through the
fill port.
28.4. Pressure washing is not recommended, and

may contaminate the transmission fluid. Damage caused by contaminated fluid is not warrantable.
28.10. A new addition to the transaxle is a drain plug.

Depending on the date of manufacture, this plug
may or may not be present. See Figure 28.10.
28.5. Before commencing internal repairs, eliminate

all possible external performance issues:
Dragging brake
Maladjusted linkage
Partially open relief valve
Slipping traction drive belt/ low engine speed
Drain plug
28.6. The transaxle contains .600 to .632 gal of 20W50 motor oil with an API classification of SH/CD.
28.7. Fill through the port at the top of the transaxle.
Fluid will spill into the plastic over-flow reservoir
as the fluid capacity is reached. See Figure
28.7.
Over-flow
reservoir
Figure 28.10
Fill port
28.11. Any time the fluid has been drained from a
hydrostatic transaxle, the air should be purged
from the system on initial start-up.
28.12. To purge the air from the hydraulic system in the
transaxle:
Start the engine.
Slowly cycle the drive pedal from full speed forward to full speed reverse 5 or 6 times, taking
about 10 seconds to complete a single cycle.
Stop the engine and check the fluid level at the

fluid level port near the back of the right side
axle housing. The plug can be removed with a
1/4 Allen wrench. Top-up as necessary.
Close the relief valve.
Start the engine.
Figure 28.7
NOTE: Some transaxles may be painted black,
depending on the year of production.
NOTE: The plastic over-flow reservoir has a
plastic vent cap at the top. This is strictly a vent
cap. Attempting to add fluid through the vent cap
48
Repeat as necessary until the transaxle operates normally.
29.8. Disconnect the front of the brake rod from the

brake pedal shaft by removing the cotter pin,
and pulling the L at the forward end of the rod
out of the hole in the brake pedal shaft.
See Figure 29.8.
28.13. Any service beyond fluid change requires

removal substantial disassembly of the transaxle. Refer to Hydro-Gear manual BLN-52261
for complete repair instructions.
29.
TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT:
HYDROSTATIC LT
Brake rod
29.1. Warrantable failures on Cub Cadet tractors are

to be repaired by replacing the transaxle. Failed,
warrantable transaxles will be called-back
through Cub Cadets vendor recovery system.
Failures of Hydro-Gear transaxles are rare.
29.2. Outside of warranty, Hydro-Gear transaxles may
be repaired or replaced at the discretion of the
customer and servicing dealer.
29.3. Before condemning a transaxle, eliminate all
possible external performance issues:
Dragging brake
Maladjusted linkage
Figure 29.8
29.9. Disconnect the ferrule at the forward end of the
speed control rod from the speed control pedal
shaft in similar fashion.
29.10. Unplug the wire from the reverse safety switch
(Red wire w/black trace on Rev-Tek equipped
models, Yellow wire w/black trace on others).
29.4. Remove the cutting deck to gain access to the

linkages that will need to be disconnected.
29.11. Disconnect the ground wire from the transaxle

using a 3/8 wrench.
29.6. Remove the rear hub caps, then the rear wheels
using a 3/4 wrench.
29.12. Remove the fan from the input pulley on the

transaxle using 5/16 wrench. See Figure 29.12.
Figure 29.12
Figure 29.7
49

29.13. Draw the traction drive belt off of the fixed idler
pulley to create slack, then work the belt off of
the double idler pulleys, similar to the method
described in the TRACTION DRIVE BELT:
HYDROSTATIC LT section of this manual.
29.17. Disconnect the deck lift assist spring that hooks

to the left side of the transaxle torque bracket
using a length of starter rope or a spring removal
tool.
See Figure 29.17.
A piece of rope
29.14. Slip the belt off of the input pulley.

See Figure 34.15.
Figure 29.17
29.18. Disconnect the heavy return spring that pulls the
control arm toward the rear of the tractor.
See Figure 29.18.
Figure 29.14
29.15. Disconnect the hydro relief rod from the relief
valve by unhooking the extension spring that
joins the rod to the arm that operates the valve.
See Figure 29.15.
Spring
Figure 29.18
Figure 29.15
29.16. Maneuver the rod to a position where it will not
interfere with nor be damaged by the removal of
the transaxle.
50

29.19. A length of starter rope is best used to disconnect the front of the spring from the control arm.
pass the rope over the torque bracket, and draw
downward on the rope to avoid destabilizing the
tractor. See Figure 29.19.
29.23. Carefully lower the transaxle to the ground, complete with torque bracket, brake rod, and hydro
control rod. See Figure 29.23.
Figure 29.23
Figure 29.19
29.24. Installation notes are as follows:

29.25. Fill the transaxle with fluid before installing it in
the tractor. Some dealers have devised ways to
manually drive the input shaft and purge the air
from the drive system on the bench, prior to
installation.
29.20. Support the transaxle with a hydraulic jack.

29.21. Remove the two screws that connect the stabilizer bracket to the frame using a 1/2 wrench.
See Figure 29.21.
29.26. If bench purging is not available, follow the purging instructions described in the TRANSAXLE
SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE: HYDROSTATIC GT section of this manual after the transaxle is installed.
29.27. Reverse the removal process to install the transaxle.
Stabilizer
bracket
screw
Figure 29.21
Tighten the screws to the torque bracket to a

torque of: 35 ft.-lbs.
Tighten the bolts holding the axle housings to

the frame to a torque of: 250 in-lbs.
Tighten the screws holding the fan to the pulley

to a torque of: 30-35 in-lbs.
Tighten the lug nuts to a torque of:
29.28. Test run the tractor in a safe area that is free of

hazards, obstacles, and bystanders to confirm
correct operation and adjustment before installing the cutting deck. Make any necessary adjustments.
29.22. Remove the pair of nuts and bolts that fasten

each axle housing of the transaxle to the tractor
frame. Use a pair of 1/2 wrenches.
NOTE: The bolts pass through a steel reinforcement (sister) plate above the lip on the tractor
frame, and an aluminum spacer that fits between
the frame and the axle housing.
29.29. Test run the tractor in a safe are that is free of

obstacles, hazards, and bystanders after the cutting deck is installed. Check all safety features
51

30.

HYDROSTATIC GT
30.5. Slip the belt off of the single fixed idler.

See Figure 30.5.
30.1. Turn-off the engine and allow all parts to cool

before beginning work.
30.3. Identify and unplug the wires leading to the electric PTO clutch. See Figure 30.3.
Figure 30.5
30.6. Carefully release the spring that maintains tension on the double idler bracket using a length of
starter rope or an appropriate tool.
See Figure 30.6.
PTO clutch wires
Figure 30.3
30.4. Remove the electric PTO clutch from the engine
crankshaft using a 5/8 wrench. See Figure 30.4.
5/8 head bolt
Figure 30.6
30.7. Slip the drive belt from between the double idler
pulleys.
Figure 30.4
NOTE: On some early models, the rear-most

pulley (rides against V side of belt) was large
enough that the double idler bracket acted as a
belt keeper. On those models, it is necessary to
loosen the nut and bolt that secure that pulley to
the bracket in order to slip the belt past the edge
of the bracket.
NOTE: Lower the clutch carefully, keeping track

of the hardware on the crankshaft. There are
variations between engines, clutches and years:
Spacers above or below the traction drive pulley.
Integral or separate key on traction drive pulley.
Different PTO clutch anti-rotation brackets.
NOTE: Pulleys may be steel or plastic, depending on when the tractor was built.
52

30.8. Slip the crankshaft pulley down far enough to get
the belt off of the pulley, and remove the belt
from the crankshaft. See Figure 30.8.
30.10. The belt for the G.T. models of the 1500 Series
line is Kevlar wrapped. Substituting the polywrapped belt used on the L.T. models is not recommended, but the Kevlar belt is an acceptable
premium upgrade for the L.T. tractors.
See Figure 30.10.
Figure 30.8
Kevlar belt
NOTE: Belt keepers that are part of the tractor
frame prevent the belt from being removed without lowering the pulley.
Figure 30.10
30.11. If the traction drive belt failed prematurely, identify the cause of its demise before installing a
replacement. Check the condition of all of the
idler pulleys.
NOTE: The pulley may be removed from the

crankshaft at the discretion of the technician.
If there is a spacer above the pulley, the end with

the radiused inside edge mates with the radiused step on the crankshaft.
30.12. The fixed idler pulley can be removed from later

models using a single 1/2 wrench. The bolt that
holds the fixed idler to earlier models threads
into a 3/8 nut above the tractor frame. The bolt
can be removed from the nut using a pair of
9/16 wrenches without removing the fenders.
See Figure 30.12.
If one end of the pulley has a radiused inside

edge, that is the end that mates with the radiused step on the crankshaft.
30.9. Carefully work the belt over the top of the cooling
fan on the transaxle, and remove it from the tractor.
See Figure 30.9.
Fixed
Idler
Figure 30.12
Figure 30.9
53

30.13. The double idler pivot bracket is held to the
frame by the same bolt that holds the fore-most
of the two pulleys. The rear pulley can be easily
removed from the bracket. It is necessary to take
the fenders off to remove the front pulley or the
bracket itself.
31.3. There is no adjustment to the relief valve, but full

travel of the linkage should be checked if the
drive system is losing power or ground speed.
See Figure 31.3.
Relief valve
30.14. Install the drive belt by reversing the order of the

removal process.
Apply anti-seize compound to the crankshaft

before installing the PTO clutch.
Tighten the crankshaft bolt to a torque of 38-50

ft.-lbs. on assembly.
Test the drive system and all tractor safety features in a clear area that is free of hazards and
by standers before returning the tractor to service.
Figure 31.3
31.4. Symptoms of a linkage that is out of adjustment
include:
31.
Low ground speed in either direction with no

unusual noises from the transaxle. One possible
cause for low ground speed is a linkage that
does not transfer all of the pedal travel to the
input arm on the transaxle.
Creeping when the transaxle is in neutral

position.
Whining or growling when the tractor is in Neutral with the brake applied.
The creeping and whining symptoms usually

accompany one-another, indicating that the linkage is not properly centered around Neutral.
Low ground speed in one direction only (Forward or Reverse) may accompany whining,
growling or creeping in Neutral if the linkage is
out of adjustment.
Low ground speed, accompanied by excessive

noise is likely to be an internal problem or a
brake that is dragging or out of adjustment.
DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT:

HYDROSTATIC GT
31.1. The relief valve is operated using a heavy rod

that is visible at the bottom left corner of the rear
of the tractor frame. See Figure 31.1.
Relief valve rod
31.5. Begin linkage adjustment by inspecting the linkage. Linkages on equipment that has been in the
field are usually out of adjustment because the
linkage is binding, worn, bent, or tampered with.
Figure 31.1
31.2. Pulling the rod out and locking it in the upper
portion of the keyhole enables the tractor to be
pushed, but disables the hydraulics of the drive
system by opening a valve that releases the
hydraulic pressure from the motor circuit.
31.6. Replace any worn or damaged parts before

adjusting the linkage.
54

31.7. Turn-off the engine and allow it to cool before
starting to work on the tractor. To gain access to
the control linkage, perform the following three
steps:
31.10. Remove the rear wheels using a 3/4 wrench.
31.11. Move the control pedal through its range of
travel (with the parking brake released) and look
for the following conditions that will cause loss of
linkage motion:
Pedal loose on the pedal shaft.
Loose arm that connects the pedal shaft to the

control rod.
Worn bushings supporting the pedal shaft.
Worn ferrule or an elongated hole where ferrule

connects to pedal shaft.
T-40 screws
Figure 31.15
31.16. Remove and discard the cotter pin that holds the
inboard bushing in place. See Figure 31.16.
31.12. Disconnect the control rod from the pedal shaft

by removing the cotter pin that secures the
adjustable ferrule on the rod to the shaft.
See Figure 31.12.
Figure 31.16
Cotter pin
Figure 31.12
31.13. Confirm that the pedal shaft moves freely in the
bushings, and does not bind.
31.14. Worn pedal shaft bushings are easily replaced

using the following 5 steps.
31.15. Set the parking brake and remove the drive
pedal using a T-40 driver. See Figure 31.15.
55

31.17. Remove the washer and inboard bushing from
31.20. Secure the pedal shaft with a new cotter pin and
previously removed washer.
31.21. Install the drive pedal, tightening the screw that
secures it to a torque of 250 in-lbs.

bent pedal shaft.

bracket.

31.23. Correct any source of binding. The pedal shaft is

easily removed at this point. The bracket may be
straightened if damage is minor.
Figure 31.17
31.24. Confirm that no unsafe conditions will arise from

starting the engine.
31.18. Slide the pedal shaft outboard far enough to create clearance to remove the outer pedal shaft
bushing, and remove the bushing.
See Figure 31.18.
31.25. Start the engine, and operate it at top-no-load

speed. Note the operation of the transaxle with
the pedal linkage disconnected: An assistant
may be required.
Growling or whining with brake applied indicates

that the input arm on the transaxle needs adjustment.
Movement of the left rear wheel or the right drive

hub with the brake released indicates that the
input arm on the transaxle needs adjustment.
With the hydro control rod disconnected from the

pedal shaft, the input arm on the transaxle
should return to Neutral.
31.26. If the transaxle does not return properly to neutral, adjust the input arm to correct the issue,
then proceed with the following step (23.27).
Bushing
31.27. If the transaxle returns properly to neutral:

Figure 31.18
slip the new bushings into place.
56
Adjust and reconnect the hydro control rod as

described in steps 23.28 through 23.30.
Install the right rear wheel on the tractor, tightening the lug nuts to a torque of.


works properly.

31.28. To adjust the hydro control rod: Find the Neutral position for the control pedal, and set the
parking brake. The cam in the parking brake
mechanism will lock the pin on the pedal shaft
into Neutral. See Figure 31.28.
31.31. To adjust the input arm on the hydro: Confirm

that the roller on the return arm draws fully into
the valley in the cam surface on the front of the
input arm. See Figure 31.31.
Pin locked into neutral
Roller
Figure 31.31
Figure 31.28
31.32. As the hydro control rod pulls forward on the
input arm, it first moves a ground contact against
the reverse safety switch. See Figure 31.32.
31.29. Thread the ferrule up or down the length of the

hydro control rod until the post is centered in the
hole that it fits into. At this point, the transaxle
and the linkage are both synchronized in Neutral. See Figure 31.29.
Reverse switch
Figure 31.32
31.33. After the switch contacts the ground, the hydro
control rod reaches the end of the lost-motion
slot, and begins to push the arm forward, to the
Reverse position. Excessive lost motion will
result in loss of ground speed in reverse.
Figure 31.29
31.30. Secure the ferrule to the arm on the pedal shaft
using a new cotter pin.
57

31.34. As the hydro control rod is pushed rearward, it
draws the cam (front) surface of the input arm
upward, forcing the neutral return arm forward,
applying more tension to the return spring.
See Figure 31.34.
31.37. Loosen the eccentric using a 1/4 Allen wrench,

and rotate it to adjust the roller up or down, as
required to center the input arm in Neutral.
31.38. Tighten the socket head cap screw to lock the
adjustment, and check to confirm that the adjustment is correct by repeating step 23.25.
31.39. After confirming that the transaxle is correctly
adjusted:
Spring
Figure 31.34
31.35. The point that the neutral return arm draws the
input arm to is determined by the position of the
roller on the neutral return arm:
If the roller is moved higher, the input arm will

move in the direction that causes forward drive.
If the roller is moved lower, the input arm will

move in the direction that causes reverse drive.
Adjust and reconnect the hydro control rod as

described in steps 23.28 through 23.30.
Install the right rear wheel on the tractor, tightening the lug nuts to a torque of.


works properly.
32.
BRAKES AND BRAKE ADJUSTMENT:

HYDROSTATIC GT
32.1. On hydrostatic garden tractors, most of the braking force is generated within the transaxle: when
in Neutral, with the brakes released, the tractor
will still be very difficult to push unless the relief
valve has been opened. The brake functions
mainly as a parking brake.
released.
31.36. The roller is moved up or down by rotating the

house-shaped eccentric that the neutral return
arm pivots on. See Figure 31.36.
If the brakes do not hold the tractor, the adjustment needs to be tightened or the brakes need
to be repaired.
Figure 31.36
58

about 40 lbs of force. More force indicates drag.

repaired.

32.5. There is no linkage adjustment. All adjustment
is done at the brake caliper.



a 3/4 wrench.

brake is applied.

released.
32.8. Hydro-Gear transaxles use a castle nut locked

with a cotter pin. See Figure 32.8.

Castle nut




needs to be removed from the shaft, remove the
two nuts that hold the caliper to the transaxle
Figure 32.8
Nuts

32.11. Remove and discard the cotter pin. A 1/2
wrench will turn the adjustment nut.
See Figure 32.11.
Figure 32.16
32.17. Remove the return spring. The end with the
small hook seats into a notch on the brake arm.
The end with the large hook goes around a
spacer on the lower stud.
Figure 32.11
59

32.18. Once the caliper is removed form the transaxle,
the arm can be unhooked from the spring that
connects it to the linkage. See Figure 32.18.
32.20. A crease in the brake arm acts as a cam. At rest,

the ends of the two pins ride in the peak of the
crease:
See Figure 32.20.
Caliper
Figure 32.18
Figure 32.20
32.19. The rotor should slip-off of the splined shaft, providing access to the fixed brake pad.
See Figure 32.19.
Fixed pad


the pad, to prevent the pins form working
through the brake pad.
been dragging.
Brake rotor
(shoulder
faces out)
brakes to drag.
32.23. On assembly, apply a sparing amount of dry
Figure 32.19
60

32.24. Install the brake caliper, tightening the two nuts
to 7 to 10 ft.-lbs., then check and adjust the padto-rotor clearance. See Figure 32.24.
32.30. Remove the cutting deck to reach the brake

32.32. The inboard brake pedal shaft bushing can be
removed by removing the cotter pin and washer
that secure it. See Figure 32.32.
Nuts
Figure 32.24
32.25. Lock the adjustment nut with a new cotter pin.
torque of 350 to 500 in.-lbs. Lower the tractor to
the ground.
Figure 32.32

32.33. The brake rod must be disconnected to remove

the outboard brake pedal shaft bushing.
Remove and discard the cotter pin that holds the
brake rod to the brake pedal shaft.
See Figure 32.33.
32.28. If there is insufficient travel in the linkage to fully

apply the brakes, a simple visual inspection
should identify the cause.
Cotter pin

Figure 32.33
Figure 32.29
61

32.34. Press the brake pedal shaft as far outward as
possible, and pry the worn bushing out of the
32.36. Secure the inner bushing with a new cotter pin

and the flat washer that was previously
removed.

bent pedal shaft.

bracket.


Figure 32.34
edge of the bracket
33.
TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE:

HYDROSTATIC GT
33.1. In normal use, the transaxle should last the life

of the tractor with minimal maintenance.

where the pedal shaft contacts the the bushing,
and slip the new bushings into place.
33.2. Because the transaxle dissipates heat through

air-cooling of the housing, it must be kept clean
of dirt and debris, and the cooling fan should be
replaced immediately if damaged.
33.3. Cleanliness is vitally important when doing any
service work that might expose the fluid or internal parts to any form of contamination. Clean
thoroughly around any fittings, parts, or seals
that are to be removed prior to removal.
Clean
33.4. Pressure washing is not recommended, and

may contaminate the transmission fluid. Damage caused by contaminated fluid is not warrantable.
33.5. Before commencing internal repairs, eliminate
all possible external performance issues:
Figure 32.35
busing wear. If lubrication is applied it should be
in dry form such as graphite or PTFE (Teflon).
62
Dragging brake
Maladjusted linkage

33.6. The transaxle contains .95 gal (116.5 fl.oz) of
20W-50 motor oil with an API classification of
SH/CD. See Figure 33.6.
To drain the oil and replace the filter:
33.9. Index-mark the charge pump housing for orientation, then remove it using a 5mm Allen wrench.
See Figure 33.9.
Oil level plug
Figure 33.6
Charge pump housing

Figure 33.9
NOTE: Check the fluid level at the fluid level port

near the back of the right side axle housing. The
plug can be removed with a 1/4 Allen wrench.
NOTE: Place a large catch pan under the transaxle.
NOTE: This oil (fluid) should not have to be

changed in the normal service life of the transaxle unless it develops a leak or becomes contaminated.
33.10. The charge pump housing will come down with

the gerotor pump it contains, an O-ring seal, and
116.5 fl. oz. of 20W50 motor oil.
33.7. If the transaxle develops a leak, identify and

repair the leak to prevent further damage.
33.11. Remove the 11 perimeter screws that hold the

lower cover to the transaxle using a #8 internal
Torx bit. See Figure 33.9.
33.8. To drain the oil, Hydro-Gear recommends

removal of the transaxle, for draining through the
fill port.
33.12. Remove the lower cover and clean all sealant

from the mating surfaces.
33.13. Remove the charge pump housing screw Orings from the charge manifold.
33.14. Remove the charge check valve spring and ball.
33.15. Remove the filter, charge manifold, and the Oring that seals the charge manifold to the pump
center section.
33.16. It is highly recommended that the transaxle be
reassembled using new O-ring seals and a new
filter.
33.17. Inspect the geroter pump. Replace it if it is visibly
worn.
33.18. Reverse the order of disassembly to reassemble
the transaxle:
63
Install the O-ring onto the pump center section.
Install the filter and charge manifold.
Install the charge check ball and spring.
Install the screw O-rings.
Install the lower cover without sealant, to align

the cover and manifold.
Secure it with the 11 perimeter screws.
Remove the lower cover, and apply sealant to

the mating surfaces where the cover meets the
transaxle housing.

axle housing. The plug can be removed with a 1/
4 Allen wrench. Top-up as necessary.
Repeat as necessary until the transaxle operates normally.
33.22. Refer to Hydro-Gear manual BLN-52359 for

complete repair instructions.
Install the lower cover, tightening the screws to a

torque of 135 to 185 in-lbs.
34.
Position a new O-ring seal in the charge pump

housing, and place the gerotor in the housing. If
one edge of the outside of the gerotor is slightly
rounded, it goes into the housing first. The flat
edge rides against the lower cover.
TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT:
HYDROSTATIC GT
34.1. Warrantable failures on Cub Cadet tractors are

to be repaired by replacing the transaxle. Failed,
warrantable transaxles will be called-back
through Cub Cadets vendor recovery system.
Failures of Hydro-Gear transaxles are rare.
Position the charge pump, rotating as necessary

to align the gerotor pump with its drive shaft and
to align the charge pump housing index marks.
34.2. Outside of warranty, Hydro-Gear transaxles may

be repaired or replaced at the discretion of the
customer and servicing dealer.
Install the two socket head cap screws that

secure the charge pump, and tighten them to a
torque of 87 to 108 in-lbs.
34.3. Before condemning a transaxle, eliminate all

possible external performance issues:
33.19. Allow the bottom cover sealant to cure according

to the sealant manufacturers instructions, then
fill the transaxle with fluid.
33.20. Any time the transaxle fluid has been refilled, it
will be necessary to purge the air from the
pumps. Air in the drive system will cause:
Dragging brake
Maladjusted linkage
Noisy operation
34.4. Remove the cutting deck to gain access to the

linkages that will need to be disconnected.
Lack or loss of power
High operating temperatures
33.21. To purge the air from the hydraulic system in the

transaxle:
Start the engine.

axle housing. The plug can be removed with a 1/
4 Allen wrench. Top-up as necessary.
Close the relief valve.
Start the engine.
Figure 34.6
64

34.7. Disconnect the front of the brake rod from the
brake pedal shaft by removing the cotter pin,
and pulling the L at the forward end of the rod
out of the hole in the brake pedal shaft.
34.12. Disconnect the control rod from the arm on the

hydro.:
34.8. Use the resulting slack in the linkage to disconnect the rear of the brake rod from the spring
that joins it to the arm on the caliper.
See Figure 34.8.
Remove the hairpin clip that secures the rod to

the arm, just in front or the connection point for
the ground wire.
Carefully withdraw the rod from the spring and

the reverse safety switch lost-motion arm.
34.13. Remove the fan from the input pulley on the

transaxle using 5/16 wrench. See Figure 34.13.
Figure 34.8
Figure 34.13
34.9. Remove the brake rod from the tractor.

34.10. Unplug the wire from the reverse safety switch
(Red wire w/black trace on Rev-Tek equipped
models, Yellow wire w/black trace on others).
34.14. Draw the traction drive belt off of the fixed idler
pulley to create slack, then work the belt off of
the double idler pulleys, similar to the method
described in the TRACTION DRIVE BELT:
HYDROSTATIC GT section of this manual.
34.11. Disconnect the ground wire from the transaxle

using a 3/8 wrench and a 7/16 wrench.
See Figure 34.11.
34.15. Slip the belt off of the input pulley.

See Figure 34.15.
Ground wire
Figure 34.11
Figure 34.15
65

34.16. Disconnect the hydro relief rod from the relief
valve by removing the hairpin clip. Lift the rod off
of the arm that controls the valve, and remove
the rod from the tractor. See Figure 34.16.
34.20. Remove the pair of nuts and bolts that fasten

each axle housing of the transaxle to the brackets on the tractor frame. Use a pair of 1/2
wrenches. See Figure 34.20.
Remove
these 2
nuts and
bolts
Relief valve
Figure 34.20
Figure 34.16
34.17. Detach the transaxle vent tube from the left
frame channel of the tractor.
34.21. Carefully lower the transaxle to the ground.

34.22. Installation notes are as follows:
34.18. Support the transaxle with a hydraulic jack.
34.23. Fill the transaxle with fluid before installing it in

the tractor. Some dealers have devised ways to
manually drive the input shaft and purge the air
from the drive system on the bench, prior to
installation.
34.19. Remove the two screws that connect the transaxle to the stabilizer bracket using a 9/16
wrench. See Figure 34.19.
34.24. If bench purging is not available, follow the purging instructions described in the TRANSAXLE
SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE: HYDROSTATIC GT section of this manual after the transaxle is installed.
Remove
these 2
screws
34.25. Reverse the removal process to install the transaxle.
Figure 34.19
Tighten the screws to the torque bracket to a

torque of: 35 ft.-lbs.
Tighten the bolts holding the axle housings to

the brackets to a torque of: 250 in-lbs.
Tighten the screws holding the fan to the pulley

to a torque of: 30-35 in-lbs.
Tighten the lug nuts to a torque of:
34.26. Test run the tractor in a safe area that is free of

hazards, obstacles, and bystanders to confirm
correct operation and adjustment before installing the cutting deck. Make any necessary adjustments.
66

34.27. Test run the tractor in a safe are that is free of
obstacles, hazards, and bystanders after the cutting deck is installed. Check all safety features
35.8. Lower the engine pulley on the crankshaft as

you remove the drive belt from around the pulley. Remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Note
the orientation of the pulley for later installation.
35.
35.9. Place a 9/16 wrench on the lock nut that

secures the steering gear to the subframe. Using
a 14mm socket, remove the hex cap screw and
shoulder spacer. See Figure 35.9.
STEERING GEAR AND STEERING PINION

GEAR REPLACEMENT
NOTE: If you are replacing the steering gear or
steering pinion gear, check the condition of both
gears for any wear or damage. It may be wise to
replace both as a set.
Steering Gear
9/16 wrench on
hex lock nut
35.1. Remove the cutting deck. See cutting deck

removal section.
35.2. If you are just replacing the steering pinion gear,
use a 11/16 socket to remove the flange lock
nut securing the steering pinion gear to the
steering shaft. See Figure 35.2.
Steering Pinion Gear
Figure 35.9
Flange Lock Nut
NOTE: You may need to use an impact wrench

on this cap screw.
35.10. Using a 9/16 wrench and socket, remove the
hex cap screw, shoulder spacer and hex nut in
the middle of the steering gear. Remove the
steering gear. See Figure 35.10.
Figure 35.2
NOTE: If you are replacing the steering gear at

this time, continue with the following steps, otherwise install a new steering pinion gear and
reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly.
35.3. If you did not remove the PTO belt guard before
you removed the cutting deck, do so now.
Shoulder Spacer
and Locking Hex Nut
35.4. Remove the drag links from the steering gear.

35.5. Disconnect the PTO electrical connector from
the wiring harness.
9/16 wrench on hex cap screw
35.6. Using a 5/8 socket and impact wrench, remove

the bolt securing the PTO to the engine crankshaft. Remove the PTO from the shaft.
Figure 35.10
35.7. Remove the drive belt from around the twin idler
pulleys. This will ease removal of the drive belt
from around the engine pulley.
35.11. Install in the reverse order of disassembly.
67

36.
STEERING ADJUSTMENT / ALIGNMENT
36.6. In front of the axle, measure the distance horizontally from the inside of the left rim to the
inside of the right rim. See Figure 36.6.
IMPORTANT: The front tires will have a TOEIN between 1/16 and 5/16 to allow the unit to
track properly.
36.1. Check the tire pressure in the front tires and
make certain that they are at approximately 14
PSI.
36.2. Place the unit on level ground.
36.3. Place the steering wheel in the straight forward
position.
36.4. Lower the deck lift lever to the lowest position.
36.5. Line up the centering hole in the steering gear
with the centering hole in the support plate, and
insert a 1/4 Phillips screw driver up through
both. See Figure 36.5.
Measure rim-to-rim at the front and back of rim

Figure 36.6
36.7. From behind the axle, measure the distance horizontally from the inside of the left rim to the
inside of the right rim.
36.8. The measurement taken in front of the axle
should be between 1/16 and 5/16 less than the
measurement taken behind the axle. If not, perform the following steps:
36.9. Loosen the jam nut at the rear of the right ball
joint that secures the ball joint to the drag link
using a 1/2 wrench and an 11/16 wrench. See
Figure 36.9.
Figure 36.5
Figure 36.9
36.10. Remove the hex nut and lock washer that

secures the right ball joint to the right axle
assembly using a 1/2 wrench and a 9/16
wrench.
68

36.11. Remove the right hand ball joint from the right
hand drag link. See Figure 36.11.
37.1. Loosen the plastic wing nuts securing the side

panels to the battery hold down bracket and the
grille assembly. See Figure 37.1.
Wing Nuts
Battery Hold
Down Bracket
Side Panel
Figure 36.11
36.12. Remove the left hand ball joint performing steps
9, 10 and 11 above.
Figure 37.1
36.13. Place the left and right tire assemblies in the

straight forward position.
37.2. Remove the side panels from the tractor.
36.14. Set the toe-in for the rim assemblies to the

straight forward position.
37.3. Remove the hairpins, flat washers and clevis

pins (or screws) securing the front bumper to the
tractor frame. See Figure 37.3.
36.15. Thread the right hand ball joint onto the right
hand drag link until the mounting hole in the right
hand axle assembly lines up with the ball joint.
NOTE: Count the number of turns the ball joint
was rotated onto the drag link. This number
should be equal for the left side as well.
Clevis Pin
36.16. Secure the right hand ball joint to the right hand
axle assembly with the lock washer and nut
removed earlier, using a 1/2 wrench and a 9/16
socket
Hairpin
36.17. Secure the right hand ball joint jam nut to the
right hand drag link using a 1/2 wrench and an
11/16 wrench.
36.18. Install the left hand ball joint using steps 15, 16
and 17.
NOTE: Make certain the same amount of rotations are used on the left ball joint as the right
ball joint.
37.
Figure 37.3
37.4. Remove the front bumper.
PIVOT BAR SERVICE

NOTE: On newer units with a one piece hood
see section 2 on hood removal, remove the front
bumper and skip to section 36.8
69
Washer

37.5. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from
the lighting harness connector. See Figure 37.5.
37.10. Loosen the large hex flange nut securing the left
axle assembly to the pivot bar using a 15/16"
socket. See Figure 37.10.
NOTE: Some models will have a push cap. In
that case you would remove the push cap and
discard it. Do not reuse push caps.
Lighting Harness
Connector
Hex
Flange
Nut
Wiring Harness Connector

Figure 37.5
37.6. Remove the hex bolts securing the front grille
assembly to the front frame assembly using a
1/2" socket and extension. See Figure 37.6.
Axle Assembly
Figure 37.10
37.11. Remove the lock nut securing the left ball joint to
the left axle assembly using a 9/16" socket and a
1/2" wrench.
37.12. Loosen the large hex flange nut or remove the
push cap securing the right axle assembly to the
pivot bar using a 15/16" socket. See Figure
37.12.
Grill
Hex Bolts
Hex
Flange
Nut
Figure 37.6
37.7. Remove the grille and hood assembly together.
37.8. Remove the muffler and muffler guard as one
unit.
37.9. Secure the front of the tractor off of the ground,
behind the pivot bar.
Pivot Bar
Axle Assembly
Figure 37.12
37.13. Remove the lock nut securing the right ball joint
to the right axle assembly using a 9/16" socket
and a 1/2" wrench.
70

37.14. Remove the large hex flange nuts securing the
axles to the pivot bar.
37.20. Remove both self tapping screws securing the

front pivot axle bracket to the frame using a 1/2"
socket. See Figure 37.20.
37.15. Remove the front axles and tire assemblies from

the pivot bar.
37.16. Remove the pivot bar stop bolts and hex nuts
using a 3/4" socket and a 9/16" wrench.
NOTE: On units with the J-bolt style deck stabilizer rod. the mounting plate will come off with
the pivot bar stop bolts.
37.17. Squeeze in on the wiring harness locking tab at
the right muffler bracket and release the wiring
harness using needle nose pliers.
Screws
37.18. Remove the hex screws securing the left and

right muffler support brackets to the frame using
a 1/2" socket. See Figure 37.18.
Front Pivot
Axle Bracket
Figure 37.20
Muffler
Support
Brackets
37.21. Remove the front pivot axle bracket.

Hex Screws
38.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
38.1. Introduction: The electrical system for the 1000

and 1500 series tractors can be classified into
three categories:
Pivot Bar
Stop Bolt
RMC
Pre-RMC
38.2. The RMC module contains electronic logic

circuits. When diagnosing anything that is connected to the RMC module, high impedance test
light or a high impedance digital volt-ohm meter
(DVOM) should be used. The amperage draw of
a standard incandescent test light may over-burden some internal electronic circuits, burning-out
the module.
Figure 37.18
37.19. Remove the left and right muffler support brackets.
CAUTION: On newer production units the muffler support brackets cover the front pivot axle
bracket. when you remove the muffler support
brackets take care to prevent the pivot axle from
falling off.
NOTE: These tools are not outrageously expensive or exotic. High impedance test lights (Thexton model 125 is typical) can be purchased
locally from stores like NAPA for under $30.00.
Appropriate multi meters can be purchased for
under $100.00, and are an invaluable tool for
any competent technician.
NOTE: The brackets are marked for correct

installation.
71
It is typical when industries shift from electromechanical to electronic controls that diagnosis shifts from tracing through a number of independent circuits to checking the in-puts to and
out-puts from a central processor. This is similar

38.3. The Key Switch is similar to those used in a
variety of MTD applications since 1999. The difference in this case is that it is incorporated in
the same housing as the RMC module; the two
items are not available separately. See Figure
38.3.
to, but much less complex than the transition

that the auto industry made with the conversion
to fuel injection in the 1980s.
The starter safety circuit has no connection to

the RMC module.
The safety circuits that are capable of turning-off the engine work through the RMC module.
It is still important to be familiar with the workings

of the individual components of the electrical
system, but some of them can now be checked
from a central point on the tractor. This
makes life easier on the technician, frequently
making it unnecessary to connect to difficult to
reach switches in the preliminary stages of diagnosis.
The function of individual safety switches can be

seen as providing information inputs to the
RMC module.
RMC module
Key switch
Figure 38.3
The next part of this section gives a detailed

description of the electrical components on
this tractor, their function in the system, and their
physical location on the tractor. Armed with this
information and the proper tools, a technician
should be able to efficiently diagnose most electrical problems.
38.4. In the OFF position, continuity can be found

between the M, G, and A1 terminals. See Figure
38.4.
NOTE: The test procedures for the normal mode

in the RMC system are the same as the PreRMC system and will not be called out separately in this manual.
Figure 38.4
72
M is connected to the magneto by a yellow wire,

G is connected to ground by a green wire, and
A1 is connected to the after fire solenoid and
alternator.
In the OFF position, the magneto primary windings are grounded, disabling the ignition system.
The alternator output that normally keeps the
after fire solenoid powered-up is given a more
direct path to ground, depriving the after fire
solenoid of power. This turns-off the fuel supply.
wires where they connect to the S terminal

(whole circuit) or directly to the afterlife solenoid
to listen for the audible click that it makes when
functioning.
Symptom-engine runs with key in OFF position:

The key switch is not completing the path to
ground either because of an internal fault or a
bad ground connection elsewhere in the harness. Check continuity between M, G, and A1
terminals with key switch in OFF position.
Check green wire continuity to ground.
Symptom-loud BANG when key is turned to

the OFF position: The after-fire solenoid is not
closing, either because it is physically damaged
or the alternator output is not getting grounded.
Check for power at the solenoid. Check continuity between G and A1 terminals. Check continuity from red wire to afterlife solenoid.
Symptom-Engine runs 3-5 seconds after key is

turned to OFF position: The after-fire solenoid is
turning-off the fuel supply, but the ignition is continuing to operate. Check continuity between the
M and G terminals in the OFF position. Check
continuity from yellow wire connection all the
way to the spade terminal on the magneto.
38.6. In the NORMAL RUN position (green zone), the

B and A1 terminals should have continuity. Once
the engine is running, the alternator produces
current that tracks-back from the A1 circuit to
charge the battery, via the red wire with white
trace connected to the B terminal.
The plain red wire carrying alternator current to
the A1 terminal doubles-back, with the second
plain red wire on that terminal supplying power
directly to the after fire solenoid.
38.5. In the START position, continuity can be found

between B, S, and A1 terminals.
Battery power from the B terminal is directed to

the start circuit through the S terminal and to the
afterlife solenoid through A1. There is no alternator output to A1 until the engine is running.
Symptom-No crank and no starter solenoid

click: Power is not getting to the trigger spade on
the starter solenoid. Test for a good battery
then check for power where the fused red wire
with white trace connects to the B terminal.
Check for continuity between B and S terminals
in START position. If power is getting to the S
terminal in the START position, the problem lies
down-stream in the starter circuit;
Check continuity from the orange wire on the S
terminal to the orange wire with white trace on
the trigger spade on the starter solenoid. If it is
broken, trace through the brake and PTO
switches.
Symptom-Crank, but no spark: This is a highly

unlikely scenario. If it occurs after a key switch
has been changed independently of the RMC
module, this would arouse suspicion that the
wrong key switch was installed. Otherwise, the
problem lies elsewhere in the safety circuits or
engine. Do not over-look the possibility of a bad
magneto or chafed ground lead within the
engine harness.
Symptom-No crank, solenoid click: The problem

lies in the heavy-gauge side of the starter circuit;
battery cables, starter cable, solenoid, or ground
issue.
Symptom-Battery does not charge: If the switch

has continuity between B and A1 in the RUN
position, follow the engine manufacturers recommendations for testing alternator output.
If alternator output is getting to and through the
key switch, but not reaching the battery, the fuse
may have blown after start-up. A blown fuse will
disable the starter circuit.
A simple quick-test for the presence of alternator
output at the battery is to check across the battery posts for DC voltage.
Symptom-After fire solenoid does not work:

engine starts and dies: The after fire solenoid is
powered directly by the red wire carrying alternator output, and should operate independently of
anything else on the tractor once the engine is
running. If the alternator fails and battery power
is not reaching the afterlife solenoid through the
key switch, it will not work. This is an unusual set
of circumstances.
38.7. In the REVERSE CAUTION MODE (yellow

zone), the same characteristics are true as for
the normal run position, but in addition the L terminal will have continuity with the A2 terminal.
The A2 terminal is connected to the RMC module by a white wire. The L terminal (formerly
used for the lighting circuit) connects directly to
the ground circuit of green wires.
When the key is in the REVERSE CAUTION
Symptom-Crank, spark, but not fuel: First test

for power at the solenoid, if no power the check
for continuity from B to A1 in the START position. If power is reaching the red wire that connects to the A1 terminal in the start position, the
problem lies down-stream of the key switch. A
handy quick-check is to apply power to the red
73

MODE position, the white wire carries a ground
signal to the RMC module. When the parking
brake is not set, this ground signal tells arms
(enables), but does not turn-on the RMC module.
38.8. The RMC Module is in the same housing as the

key switch, and is not available separately. For
the purpose of diagnosis it is treated separately.
Diagnosis in unit with the key switch introduces
too many over-lapping variables. See Figure
38.8.
Symptom-RMC module will not turn-on: Check

for continuity between A2 and L terminals on the
key switch when it is in the REVERSE CAUTION
MODE position. Confirm that the green wire has
continuity to ground. If the switch is capable of
establishing a ground signal to the RMC module,
the problem is likely to lie elsewhere in the system.
RMC module
Symptom-RMC module will not turn-on: confirm

that the ground path (continuity to ground) to the
white wire is broken when the key switch is in
any position other than REVERSE CAUTION
MODE.
The
RMC module is disarmed (disabled) when the
parking brake is set. To re-arm the module, the
key is moved to another position, breaking the
ground signal, then returned to the REVERSE
CAUTION MODE, re-establishing the ground
signal. It works something like a latched relay. If
it is not possible to break the ground-path, it is
not possible to freshly establish it either, and the
RMC module will not be armable.
Causes for such a condition might include a
shorted or incorrect key switch, or a chafed
white wire shorting to ground between the key
switch and the RMC module.
Figure 38.8
38.9. Principle: To diagnose the module, the simplest

approach is to check all of the inputs (safety circuits) that are connected to it. If the inputs work
properly, but the RMC module does not work
properly (outputs), then the module can be
determined to be faulty. A specific procedure is
covered, following the description of the correct
operation of the RMC module.
38.10. Working properly: The module cannot be diagnosed if its function is not understood. It is
designed to work as follows: See Figure 38.10.
Indicator
Figure 38.10
74
When the RMC module is disarmed, the tractor

will operate as MTD tractors have historical
operated:
If reverse is engaged when the electric PTO is
ON, the PTO clutch will turn-off.
If the operator leaves the seat with the engine
running, the engine will turn-off.
If the operator leaves the seat with the PTO in
the OFF position, the engine will turn-off unless
the brake is applied.
When the RMC module is armed, the tractor will
operate identically to when the module is disarmed.
When the RMC module is armed and turnedon: The tractor will operate identically to when
the module is disarmed, except that the operator
will be able to put the transmission in reverse
with the PTO engaged and the cutting deck will
continue to run The operator may put the tractor
into and out of reverse as many times as they
wish without having to re-arm or turn-on the
module again.
To arm the RMC module: the operator must

turn the key switch to the REVERSE CAUTION
MODE (yellow zone), with the parking brake
released.
To turn the RMC module ON: The module must

first be armed, then the orange triangular button
is depressed, illuminating the red LED indicator
to indicate that it is ON. It is important that the
operator must take two actions to turn the RMC
module ON so that they do not do so inadvertently.
The RMC module will turn-OFF and disarm if:

The operator moves the key to any position
other than REVERSE CAUTION MODE.
The operator sets the parking brake.
If the operator leaves the seat without setting the
parking brake, the engine will turn-off. The key
movement necessary to re-start the engine will
make it necessary to re-arm and turn-on the
RMC module if the operator wishes to continue
with the ability put the tractor in reverse while the
PTO is running.
38.11. To identify a faulty RMC module: If the RMC

module does not function as described, the RMC
plug test should be the first step in diagnosis.
If the RMC plug test confirms that the safety circuits (inputs) work as designed, yet the RMC
module does not work properly, the RMC module is faulty.
The RMC plug test will give an indication of what

the problem is if it is not a faulty RMC module. If
the problem is identified in a particular circuit,
check the safety switch that is associated with
that circuit. If the switch is good, then the problem lies within the wiring harness.
NOTE: Like the electronic components found on
most cars, the RMC module requires a fully
charged battery to work properly. If the system
voltage falls below 12 V. an accurate diagnosis
of the RMC module is impossible because the
module will be temporarily disabled by low voltage.
38.12. Disconnect the molded 8-pin plug from the RMC

module. See Figure 38.12.
Figure 38.12
NOTE: For the 1000 series it may be necessary

to unfasten the fuel tank and move it aside for
easier access to the plug. For the 1500 series
you may need to move the battery to get at the
plug.
To re-arm and turn the module ON:

If
the key is in REVERSE CAUTION MODE position, it must be turned to another position (Normal Run), then returned to REVERSE CAUTION
MODE. Once re-armed, the module can be
turned-on by pressing orange triangular button.
It will be confirmed that the module is ON by the
illumination of the red LED on the module.
75

the seat is empty, the switch may be inoperative
or there may be an open condition in the wire
leading to it.
38.13. Looking at the plug head-on, it will be configured

as shown in the diagram: There will be 8 female
pin terminals. When probed they should yield
the results described in the following sections.
See Figure 38.13.
Circuitry: The yellow wire with black trace leads

to the PTO switch, where it finds a path to
ground when the PTO is ON.
Interpretation: If behavior is correct, the N.C.

side of the PTO switch /circuit is functioning
properly.
If there is continuity to ground when the PTO is
OFF, the switch may be inoperative or there may
be a short to ground in the wire leading to it.
If there is not continuity to ground when the PTO
switch is ON, the PTO switch may be inoperative, or there may be an open condition in the
wire that leads to it.
38.16. There is a red wire with black trace between yellow wire with a black trace and the green wire.
This wire provides the module with input from
the reverse switch.
Figure 38.13
NOTE: You will see a difference in the configuration of the adaptor of the manual PTO vs. the
Electric PTO.
Behavior: When the tractor is in reverse, this

terminal should have continuity to ground.
Circuitry: This wire runs directly to the reverse

safety switch on the transmission support for the
CVT tractors or at the brake caliper on the
hydros. This is a simple metal tang switch that
grounds-out against the transmission control
lever.
Interpretation: Continuity to ground when the

tractor is not in reverse would indicate a short to
ground north circuit. This could take the form of
a chafed wire contacting ground, a bent reverse
safety switch that is always in contact with
another metal part, or a broken plastic insulator
that separates the switch from the fender.
Lack of continuity to ground would indicate a
broken or disconnected wire leading to the
reverse safety switch, or a switch that is not closing because of physical damage or corrosion.
38.14. Top left middle -shape: Yellow wire with Black

trace:
Behavior: Should show DC power with the key

on.
Circuitry: The yellow wire with black leads

directly to the PTO switch.
38.15. Check the PTO and seat safety circuits with the
8-pin pigtail connector unplugged, then reconnect it and continue with the RMC plug test.
Behavior: When the female pin terminal leading

into the main harness is probed (yellow wire),
there should be continuity to ground only when
the seat is empty.
38.17. At the opposite end of the top row from the yellow wire with black trace is a green wire.
Circuitry: The yellow wire with white trace leads

to the forward terminal on the seat safety switch,
where it finds a path to ground when the seat is
empty.
Interpretation: If behavior is correct, the seat
safety circuit is good.
If there is continuity to ground when the seat is
occupied, the switch may be inoperative, or
there may be a short to ground in the wire leading to it. If there is not continuity to ground when
76
Behavior: The green wire should always have

continuity to ground.
Circuitry: The green wire leads to ground.
Interpretation: If this ground path is not good,

there will probably be other ground-related
issues with the tractor: slow starter motor, slow
battery charge, dim lights. All ground connections should be mechanically secure and corrosion free.

38.18. The red wire on the OCR plug carries battery
voltage.
Behavior: D.C. battery voltage should show-up

on a volt meter when the red probe is touched to
this terminal and the black probe is grounded,
regardless of the key switch position.
Circuitry: This wire draws power directly from

the B terminal on the key switch.
Interpretation: If there is not battery voltage at

this terminal, the tractor is probably not function
at all. Look for a blown fuse, disconnected battery, disconnected ammeter or some other major
fault.
39.2. B-COM is in the safety shut-down circuit. It is a

normally opened (NO) set of contacts. A circuit is
completed from the M terminal on the key switch
through the yellow wire to the Magneto terminal
on the RMC module through the yellow wire with
black trace when the contacts are closed. This
gives the RMC module the ability to turn-off the
engine when the PTO is ON.
39.3. In C-Com, power is supplied to the PTO switch
from the A1 terminal of the ignition switch
through a red wire.when the PTO switch is
turned on this completes the circuit to allow
power to go to the PTO clutch. It is a normally
opened (NO) set of contacts.
38.19. The purple wire provides a ground signal to the

RMC module when the key switch is placed in
the REVERSE CAUTION MODE.
Behavior: There should be continuity to ground

at this terminal when the key switch is in the
REVERSE CAUTION MODE position.
Circuitry: When the key switch is in the

REVERSE CAUTION MODE position, a ground
path is established by connecting terminal A2 to
terminal L within the key switch. The white wire
from the RMC module connects to A2, and a
green ground wire connects to L.
Interpretation: If the purple wire fails to reach a

ground path when the key switch is in the
REVERSE CAUTION MODE position, the RMC
module will not arm or operate. Check the key
switch for continuity between A2 and L in the
REVERSE CAUTION MODE position, confirm
that the green wire connecting to the L terminal
does have good continuity to ground, and check
for any loss of continuity in the purple wire that
extends from the key switch to the RMC module,
including the molded connector between the two
components.
If the RMC plug test indicates fault with any of

the safety switches, the next step is to test the
suspect switch.The operation of those switches
is described in the following sections.
39.
UNDERSTANDING THE PTO SWITCH
Figure 39.3
NOTE: The top terminals are showing normally

closed at rest and the middle terminals are normally open at rest
NOTE: There are three contacts on the right side
in the C-COM.For this application the normally
opened (NO) contact is used.
39.1. A-COM is in the starter inhibit circuit. It is a normally closed (NC) set of contacts. When the
PTO is OFF, and the contacts are closed, power
coming from the brake switch (key switch in
START, brakes ON) through the orange wire
with black trace is passed on to the trigger terminal on the starter solenoid through the orange
wire with white trace.
77
39.4. The Brake Switch is mounted to the inside

of the frame slightly right of the steering
shaft. See Figure 39.4.
39.5. The Reverse Safety Switch is a simple

metal contact tang. The gear selector
touches it when placed in the reverse position, providing a ground path through the
gear sector lever itself. See Figure 39.5.
Reverse switch
Brake switch
Figure 39.4
Figure 39.5
The plunger on the switch is depressed

when the clutch / brake pedal is presseddown, de-clutching the drive belt and applying the brakes. The switch contains two sets
of contacts.
A normally open (NO) set of contacts is in

the starter inhibit circuit. When the clutch /
brake pedal is depressed, the contacts are
closed, power coming from the key switch
(key switch in START) through the orange
wire is passed on to the PTO switch through
the orange wire with black trace.
A normally closed (NC) set of contacts is in

the safety shut-down circuit. A circuit is completed from the M terminal on the key switch,
and directly from the magneto primary windings through the pair of yellow wires to the
clutch / brake switch through to the yellow
wire with black trace when the contacts are
closed.
The yellow wire with black trace leads to one

element of the seat switch. If the seat is
vacant and the pedal is up, the engine will
turn-off.
39.6. On hydraulic drive units the reverse safety

switch is located on the right side just above
the brake arm. See Figure 39.6.
Reverse switch
Figure 39.6
78

39.7. The Seat Safety Switch consists of a pair of
simple metal contact tangs attached to the seat
mounting bracket. See Figure 39.7.
Insulator
Seat safety switch
39.8. On the 1000 series tractors the starter solenoid

is mounted at the left rear corner of the frame.
The mounting bracket is visible beneath the left
fender, and the solenoid itself is accessibly by
removing the battery. See Figure 39.8.
Contact tangs
Yellow wire/
black trace
Yellow wire/
white trace
Figure 39.7
Figure 39.8
The yellow wire with white trace is connected to

the front spade terminal on the seat safety
switch. When the seat is vacant, the tab on the
seat bracket closes a ground path in series with
the PTO switch. If the PTO is ON and the seat is
empty, the circuit is completed, shorting-out the
primary windings of the magneto, turning-off the
engine.
When the proper safety conditions are met,

(brake applied, PTO OFF) the orange wire with
white trace energizes the windings that magnetize an iron core, pulling the contacts closed
between the two heavy posts, connecting battery power to the starter motor.
39.9. The 1500 series tractors use a starter solenoid

that is actually part of the starter.
The yellow wire with black trace is connected to

the rear spade terminal on the seat safety
switch. When the seat is vacant, the tab on the
seat bracket closes a ground path in series with
the brake switch. If the brake is not applied, and
the seat is empty, the circuit is completed, shorting-out the primary windings of the magneto,
turning-off the engine.
39.10. The starters on the Kohler Command engines

have the starter solenoid on the starter. See Figure 39.10.
Starter solenoid
The most common problems are likely to be

caused by physical damage: a broken insulator
between the switch and the seat bracket, an
unplugged wire, or a bent tang.
Figure 39.10
79
39.11. The lighting circuit is hot whenever the engine

is running. It does not draw from the battery, but
runs directly off its own circuit on the alternator.
See Figure 39.11.
NOTE: On units with an auxiliary power point a

second red wire with white trace will supply a 5
amp service to the power point.
Headlights
CAUTION: DO NOT PUT A CIGERETTE

LIGHTER IN THIS POWER POINT. This will
cause the fuse to blow and can seriously damage the harness.
A failed fuse will disable most of the tractors

electrical system.
Remember that a failed fuse has done its job of

protecting the rest of the circuit from an overload. If a fuse blows, figure-out why and correct
the core problem before returning the tractor to
service.
39.13. Refer to the engine manufacturers specifications to test the engine and charging systems.
Figure 39.11
The red wire with white trace carries fused

power to the B terminal on the key switch.
39.14. Ground issues: It is relatively easy to track

where power is on the positive side of the system. The negative side is frequently neglected,
though it may account for just as many electrical
problems as the positive side.
The blue wire carries alternator current, the

green wire is a ground.
39.12. The 20A fuse is located near the RMC module /

key switch assembly, under the dash panel. See
Figure 39.12.
39.15. Most technicians first instinct when testing

ground paths is to set the multi meter to the
Ohms scale () and look for continuity using
resistance as a measurement. This method
does give a rough idea if the circuit is complete
or not.
39.16. Resistance is not the most definitive scale for
identifying circuits that are complete, but have
reduced current carrying capacity because of
bad connections, physical damage, or corrosion.
20 Amp fuse
Figure 39.12
The solid red wire feeds the fuse with power

picked-up from the battery cable connection to
the hot post of the starter solenoid.
80

39.17. As a point of illustration, a short length of 12 or
14 gauge stranded wire can be stripped at the
ends to facilitate an Ohm reading. See Figure
39.17.
39.19. A more effective way to identify this reduced current carrying capacity is to look for voltage
drop.
39.20. Voltage drop tests are useful on both the positive
or the negative side of the system. We will concentrate on the negative side to begin with. See
Figure 39.20.
Undamaged
wire
Figure 39.17
39.18. For comparison, strip away insulation at the middle of the wire, and snip strands until only a few
remain. Repeat the Ohm reading. There will
not be a substantial change. See Figure 39.18.
Figure 39.20
Stripped and
partially severed
wire
Figure 39.18
While the actual resistance did not change, the

ability of the whittled-down length of wire to carry
current is vastly reduced.
Similar effects occur when a terminal is not firmly

crimped, a connection is loose, insulated by
paint or corrosion, or the wire is chafed, cut, or
corroded.
81
Ultimately, any negative current should find its

way back to the negative post of the battery.
To check ground-side voltage drop: set-up a

multi meter to measure 12V DC.
Make a good electrical connection between the

black (-) probe and the negative post on the battery.

red (+) probe and the suspect point of ground.
Power-up the circuit in question.
The voltage that shows-up on the meter is the

power that is not following the intended path
back to the negative battery post.
Voltage drop on a good circuit should be less

than 0.1 volts. A voltage drop reading on the
meter of greater than 0.2 volts indicates a fairly
substantial problem that demands attention.

39.21. As an example, if the starter solenoid does not
engage properly, check for voltage drop between
the ground point for the starter solenoid and the
negative post on the battery. See Figure 39.21.
39.25. Individually, these readings should lead a technician to inspect the connection between the solenoid and the ground path (e.g. mounting
hardware, green wire with eyelet beneath head
of solenoid mounting bolt), or the engine and the
frame (e.g. loose or rusty engine mounting
bolts).
39.26. If both of these readings were found on the
same tractor, a common point in the system
would be the primary suspect (e.g. poor connection between negative battery cable and frame).
39.27. Applying this principle to the positive side of the
system: See Figure 39.27.
Figure 39.21
39.22. With the starter engaged, this machine exhibited
a voltage-drop reading beyond 0.30 volts, indicating a poor ground connection.
39.23. A similar ground-side test on a tractor with a
slow-cranking starter motor can be conducted
between the engine block and the negative battery post. See Figure 39.23.
Figure 39.27
Ultimately, any positive current should find its

way from the positive post of the battery to its
destination through the wiring harness.
To check hot-side voltage drop: set-up a multi

meter to measure 12V DC.

red (+) probe and the positive post on the battery.

black (-) probe and the suspect point of the circuit.
Power-up the circuit in question.
The voltage that shows-up on the meter is the

power that is not following the intended path
back to the negative battery post.
Voltage drop on a good circuit should be less

than 0.1 volts. A voltage drop reading on the
meter of greater than 0.2 volts indicates a fairly
substantial problem that demands attention.
Figure 39.23
39.24. With the starter engaged, this machine exhibited
a voltage-drop reading beyond 0.30 volts, indicating a poor ground connection.
82

39.28. As an example, if the tractor had a slow-turning
starter, the ground-side voltage drop measured
below 0.1 volts, and there was not a parasitic
load on the engine (e.g. PTO clutch that is not
fully disengaged), it would be logical for the technician to check voltage drop to the starter. See
Figure 39.28.
39.32. Switches may be bench tested using an Ohm

meter. Generally speaking, safety switches will
have less than 0.2 through the contacts.
39.33. On MTD switches:
Normally Closed contacts are identified by the

letters NC stamped on the spades that connect
to those contacts.
Paired spades (going to the same set of contacts) are next to each-other flat-to-flat (not edge
to edge).
It is good to test switch contacts in both modes:

open and closed, confirming that each set of
contacts is neither shorted nor faulted. See Figure 39.33.
Figure 39.28
39.29. With the starter motor engaged, the voltage drop
reading here is nearly 0.6 volts, indicating a serious problem in the heavy-gauge circuit between
the starter and the battery.
39.30. Checking voltage-drop at various points along
the circuit can help pin-point the problem.
Check voltage-drop at the output lug on the

starter solenoid:
If there is a significant difference, the problem
lies between the lug on the solenoid and the lug
on the starter.
If there is little change, the problem lies further
up-stream.
Check voltage drop at the input lug on the solenoid:

If there is significant difference between the
reading here and the reading at the output lug
(greater than 0.10 volt), then the contacts inside
the solenoid may be burned.
If there is little change, the problem lies further
up-stream, between the battery and the solenoid.
Results may be cross-checked by testing voltage drop across the two posts of the starter solenoid while cranking the starter motor.
Figure 39.33
39.31. This test may also be applied to the light gauge

circuits on the tractor.
83
84
85
86

Cub Cadet 1000 - 1500 Service Manual

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Cub Cadet 1000 - 1500 Service Manual

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Cub Cadet 1000 - 1500 Service Manual

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Service Manual

1000/1500 Series Riding Tractors

MTD Products Inc. - Product Training and Education Department

NEW HOOD DESIGN ................................................................................................................. 3

HOOD PANEL REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES ................................................................................ 5

HOOD AND HINGE REMOVAL: 1500 SERIES ........................................................................ 6

REAR FENDER REMOVAL ....................................................................................................... 7

FUEL SYSTEM ........................................................................................................................... 9

FUEL SHUT-OFF SOLENOID ................................................................................................. 11

FUEL RELATED NO-START ISSUES ..................................................................................... 11

MUFFLER REMOVAL .............................................................................................................. 12

CUTTING DECK REMOVAL .................................................................................................... 13

DECK LIFT SHAFT ASSEMBLY ............................................................................................. 15

LIFT SHAFT BUSHINGS ......................................................................................................... 16

DECK LIFT CABLES AND PULLEYS ..................................................................................... 17

LEVELING THE CUTTING DECK ........................................................................................... 18

DASH PANEL REMOVAL ....................................................................................................... 20

CRUISE CONTROL AND PARK BRAKE LINKAGES ............................................................ 22

TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT: CVT ................................................................... 24

DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: CVT .................................................................................... 27

BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: CVT .................................................................................................. 30

SERVICING THE BRAKE PEDAL SHAFT BUSHINGS: ......................................................... 32

TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT: CVT ...................................................................................... 34

TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND INTERNALS: CVT ................................................................... 36

TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT ........................................... 36

DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT ........................................................... 39

HYDRO CONTROL ROD ADJUSTMENT ............................................................................... 42

BRAKES AND BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT ................................................. 43

PEDAL BUSHING REPLACEMENT ........................................................................................ 46

TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE: HYDROSTATIC LT ...................................... 47

TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC LT .............................................................. 49

TRACTION DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT........................................... 52

DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT............................................................ 54

BRAKES AND BRAKE ADJUSTMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT ................................................. 58

TRANSAXLE SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE: HYDROSTATIC GT ..................................... 62

TRANSAXLE REPLACEMENT: HYDROSTATIC GT .............................................................. 64

STEERING GEAR AND STEERING PINION GEAR REPLACEMENT ................................... 67

STEERING ADJUSTMENT / ALIGNMENT ............................................................................. 68

PIVOT BAR SERVICE ............................................................................................................. 69

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ........................................................................................................... 71

UNDERSTANDING THE PTO SWITCH ................................................................................... 77

Series 1000 and 1500

Series 1000 and 1500

1000 Series Engine Applications

Disclaimer: This service manual is intended to be

Intent: This manual is intended to:

Provide specific service and repair procedures

Highlight significant changes to the Cub Cadet

Engines: A variety of single cylinder and V-twin

For specific engine service information, refer to

The engine is partially identified by the 4th digit

13AX11CG756 - Kohler Courage single cylinder

13AP11CP756 - Kohler courage V-Twin

2005 LT 1042 13BX11CG710

2006 LT 1042 13AX11CG756

Series 1000 and 1500

Decks: Cutting decks ranging in width from 38

There have been multiple versions of some

The deck size is identified by the 8th digit of the