COS CAPSULE ON MR PORTER

Contributors

PUBLISHER & EDITOR IN CHIEF

YOUSUF BIN JASSIM AL DARWISH

MANAGING DIRECTOR & CEO

JASSIM BIN YOUSUF AL DARWISH

MANAGER
DR. FAISAL FOUAD

SINDHU NAIR

FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH

DEPUTY EDITOR IZDIHAR IBRAHIM

SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS AYSWARYA MURTHY

UDAYAN NAG

KARIM EMAM
CORRESPONDENTS
AARTHI MOHAN

KEERTANA KODURU

SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE

MANAGING EDITOR

Karen Nicolet

Karen Nicolet is a fashion and lifestyle blogger. She began

her professional career in advertising and moved to film
marketing, working on projects such as the Ajyal Youth
Film Festival and Qumra. With a love for photography,
fashion and writing, she started her blog Clumsy Chic in
2012 as a creative outlet to keep her inspired. Since then,
the blog has continuously evolved to bring inspirational
stories in fashion, travel, food, design, and DIY to her
readers. She has collaborated with brands like Fendi, Dior
Beauty, Printemps and Turkish Airlines.

VENKAT REDDY
HANAN ABU SAIAM

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR AYUSH INDRAJITH

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MAHESHWAR REDDY
PHOTOGRAPHER
ROBERT F ALTAMIRANO

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

MARKETING & SALES

MANAGER
SAKALA A. DEBRASS
TEAM
SONY VELLATT

DENZITA SEQUIERA

MATHEWS CHERIAN

ANIS MANSOURI

IRFAAN A H M

EVENTS OFFICER

NISHAD NASAR
GHAZALA MOHAMMED

Radheya Visperas

Radheya Visperas is a Fashion Design student from

Virginia Commonwealth University in Qatar, and is
currently finishing her senior year. She started as a fine
artist, creating sculptures and paintings, and later decided
to pursue a career in fashion. She used her passion and
inspiration from art to translate them into wearable
clothes. She is an enthusiastic writer, artist and stylist.

ACCOUNTANT
PRATAP CHANDRAN
DISTRIBUTION DEPARTMENT

ESLAM ELMAHALAWY
BIKRAM SHRESTHA

ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTA POKHREL

PRADEEP BHUSAL

GLAM is published by Oryx Publishing & Advertising Co. WLL

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reproduced without the express permission of the publisher and/or license
holder. All rights rest with Datalog media solutions. The publisher does not
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Contact: glam@oryxpublishing.com
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Kim and Bianca

Sisters of style, blogging duo, and now GLAMs Style Spies,

Kim and Bianca Castro bring sartorial inspiration at your
fingertips by featuring the citys style standouts. Follow
them on Instagram @lepaperdoll and @biancamecastro.
Maybe we havent spied on you yet. You know what to do
tag us on #GLAMStyleSpy to get featured in next
months Style Spy.

G Talk
Digital engagement and sustainability the two major buzzwords currently sweeping the
fashion world. The first we wholly embrace, by reaching out to you across all our social
platforms. And the second, we explore in our discussions with designers like this months
chat with Rumi X the brand that is flying the flag of eco-conscious sportswear.
Buzzwords they may be, in truth, how much do these two elements affect our actual
fashion decisions and purchases? Fashion brands are clamouring for new ways to reach
out to us via smartphones and tablets. Every marketing decision has to be validated by a
fantastic digital strategy to grab attention. Remember when catwalk images were made
available immediately after a show? We cheered with passion. Remember when Burberry
had their inaugural live show so we could witness it in real time along with Alexa Chung
on front row? We rejoiced. Or the first fashion film ever released and we were in awe at
how Chanel could be fun despite its pedestal authority?
These were all the first loves. Now, we probably mindlessly scroll through, another
catwalk show, another fashion film, and another fashion app..., and the list continues.
Yes, we are digital, but we are definitely not as engaged anymore. The consequences
of being desensitised is one that goes beyond the dollars of revenues for brands, the
ultimate engagement is to create a lasting relationship by just telling a simple charmed
story. The most simple communication has become the most difficult to execute.
While sustainability remains experimental for now, we do seem to be moving in the right
direction. Perhaps sometime in the future, it will be a concept developed not as a second
thought but as the core of new emerging brands. On this note, we go back to the touch
of the hand that gives life to wonderfully-crafted objects, the Louis Vuitton Blossom
jewellery collection and the Versace Palazzo Empire bag. To the craftsmen who dedicate
their art to beauty, we salute you.

EDITORS PICK
GETTING READY FOR
PARTY SEASON? FRENCH
CULT BRAND, THE
KOOPLES, LAUNCHES ITS
FIRST EVENINGWEAR
MOONLIGHT CAPSULE
COLLECTION
CELEBRATING ALL THE
GLITZ OF AN EVENING
OUT ON THE TOWN. THE
COLLECTION FEATURES
BAROQUE ACCESSORIES,
PYTHON-PRINT LEATHER
BELTS, AND MAJESTIC
PLATFORM SANDALS.

11 \ TRENDS

1
2

SAVE

VS

SPLURGE

ALL THAT
GLIMMERS

Coats might be a tad too warm for Arabias

winter but now is the perfect time to break
out your leather moto jacket! A classic,
worn in history by only the coolest (think
bad boys and grungy girls), this is a great
investment as it never goes out of style
and with a little leather loving, the jacket
will perhaps become the next heirloom in
your wardrobe. This season, we combine
the moto with the quintessential AW2016
trend, all that glimmers and shimmers.
The shiny effect is always a difficult one
to ace, but pairing it with leather instantly
dials down the over-the-top vibe. Glitter
and a moto are also reminiscent of the rock
and roll era, perfect for the start of party
season!

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

5
5

SPLURGE
1

SAVE
1
2
3
4
5

Shimmer jacket, QR240

Gradient dress, QR240
Sequined top, QR120
Gold skirt, QR120
Studded top, QR200

All items available from H&M stores in Qatar.

Wide leg pants, QR9,160,

Oscar de la Renta
Stretch-jersey top, QR1,248,
Vivienne Westwood
Anglomania.
Sequined jumpsuit, QR11,960,
Saint Laurent.
Turtleneck dress, QR4,840, 3.1
Phillip Lim.
Leather biker jacket, QR7,180,
Balenciaga.

GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR

NOVEMBER 2016
AN EDIT
OF THINGS
THAT ARE
HOT NOW

FENTY PUMA BY RIHANNA

Rihanna challenges the beauty of the 18th century with a
modern, sporty and sexy sensibility in her SS17 collaboration
with Puma. The collection takes inspiration from 18th
century France and fuses it with a street style vibe. I am
really excited about this collection as its very fun and light.
Showing in Paris was the perfect backdrop as I pulled a
lot of inspiration from France, Marie Antoinette and The
Palace of Versailles specifically, says Rihanna. Mixing
athletic wear with regal touches was a challenge and I
hope everyone loves the results. I cannot wait to wear this

collection. Rihanna stayed true to PUMAs sport heritage by

reimagining and transforming traditional tracksuits, boxing
robes, tennis dresses and polos. The collection continues to
play with exaggerated and oversized shapes, while soft pinks,
lavenders, and nudes compliment and contrast hard, edgy,
sporty looks in olive and rich brown. The collection, designed
with both men and women in mind, includes tiered jackets,
in a lightweight onion skin fabric, embroidered tricot track
dresses and suits, and jacquard pieces uniquely featuring the
signature PUMA cat in a custom FENTY floral motif.

13

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FOR INFERNO

Salvatore Ferragamo, the house rooted in Florence,
gives Italian legitimacy to the Hollywood adaptation
of Dan Browns Inferno, by designing the costumes
for the main characters played by Tom Hanks and
Felicity Jones. Ferragamos contribution is expressed
through contemporary, urban and discreet garments.
Tom Hanks is seen in a simple charcoal grey suit and
a sky-blue shirt. A pair of Tramezza lace-ups, the
Americans epitome of Italian shoes, completes the
outfit that although subtle, is accurate in cut with

attention to details. Felicity Jones outfit is equally

simple; a soft-cut silk blouse in a feminine nude
colour, worn over grey cigarette-leg pants and paired
with the iconic Vara pumps with platform heels and
an indigo trench. A further link with Ferragamo lies
with the location, as almost the entire film is shot
in Florence. The historical citys great beauty is the
protagonist, recognisable from the squares, streets
and buildings. The movie is now showing in all
major cinemas.

PRYMA BY SONUS FABER

PRYMA by Sonus faber, the only line of headphones that is
100% handmade in Italy, has released its first-ever campaign
that features creative leaders from different fields. Inspired
by PRYMAs unparalleled sound experience, world-renowned
French photographer and creative director Olivier Zahm
envisioned the #PRYMERS campaign as an intimate look
inside the lives of prominent members of the international
creative elite. The campaign introduces the first class of
#PRYMERS to the world French artist Andr Saraiva; sound
designer, DJ and producer Clara 3000; Italian artist Maurizio
Cattelan; and American DJ and club owner Paul Sevigny.
Music is vital for artists. Its part of their everyday life when

they work, think, imagine, or just relax, says Olivier. To

me, PRYMA headphones represent the highest sound quality
and best design. I wanted to celebrate these attributes by
shooting highly creative talents that are just as meticulous
about sound quality and design, as they are about their artistic
point of view. I shot them in their most personal environment
their own homes where they would be truly enjoying
music surrounded by the objects that inspire them. The four
spotlights feature intimate imagery, depicting the #PRYMERS
in moments of contemplation wearing a set of PRYMA
headphones, using them to block the outside world and focus
wholly on their creative pursuit.

14

FANTASTIC
ACCESSORIES
AND WHERE
TO FIND THEM
We could not resist but borrow a little J.K Rowling charm
for this one - because this seasons extra peripherals for our
wardrobe are just so extraordinary!
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

TRENDS / 15
1

2
3

THE BAGS
Emma bag, Aigner.
Boxy Nash, Zadig & Voltaire.
3 Margot shoulder bag, Antik Batik.
4 Tribal mini tote, Dsquared2.
5 Forest flower saddle, Coach.
6 St Marc bag, Marc Jacobs.
7 Embroidered briefcase, Paul Smith.
8 Sequinned backpack, Versace.
1

8
6

16
1

THE SHOES
1
2

Printed sneaker, Ballin.

Beaded heel sandal,

Charlotte Olympia.

Step-on mule, Loewe.

4 Leather boot, Mulberry.
5 Rainbow platform, Man Repeller.
6 Lace-up flat, Man Repeller.
7 Boot, Versace.
3

6
7

TRENDS / 17

1
2

12

11
3
5

THE JEWELS
Rose gold ring, Tiffany & Co.
Manchette plume cuff, Akillis.
3 Geometric 18kt gold rings,
1

Azza Fahmy.

Tassel bracelet, Dsquared2.

5 Slim watch, Calvin Klein.
6 Abstract necklace, Carven.
7 Brooch, Claudie Pierlot.
8 Reverso Lady Ultrathin Duetto,
4

13

Jaeger-Lecoultre.

Bijoux ring, Maje.

10 Bauble necklace, Max & Co.
11 Matte black bracelet, Tiffany
12 Wheel of Dreams necklace,
9

13

& Co.

Uboldi Charm.
Versus Versace.

Watch,

9
6

4
10

18

SUBTLY
SENSUAL

Drawing on this seasons catwalk collections, the major womenswear

trends encompass sensuality and ramped-up femininity with pleats, sheer
fabrics and bared shoulders. Nearly all the major labels chose to honour
the female form in an understated, and reserved way, with designs that
suggest rather than reveal. This translates to long-length pieces with slits
or sheer finishes, cinched waists, bared shoulders and fluid, floaty fabrics.
What we love as always at GLAM HQ, it is all about being laidback, giving
pride of place to comfort rather than overtly sexy styles.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

CHIC P LEATS

Maison Margiela

Summers must-have pleated

skirt carries through, bringing
a light, comfortable and
sensual feel. Pleats have
worked their way into long and
short skirts, dresses and even
tops. Pleats were spotted at
Maison Margiela, Diesel Black
Gold, Valentino, Vionnet and
Bottega Veneta. Plus, Issey
Miyake showcased two new
technical procedures-boosting
fluidity of movement and
creating all kinds of optical
illusions.

TRENDS / 19

S P OT LIG H T ON
S H O U LDERS
Shoulders are being shown with
asymmetrical tops and dresses, as well as
with cuts that leave them entirely bare,
as seen at Christian Dior, Elie Saab,
Mugler, Anthony Vaccarello, Ermanno
Scervino, and Alexander McQueen.
Although some fashion houses kept
shoulders covered, they were still
structured, sometimes with exaggerated
80s styles, like at Saint Laurent and
Jacquemus.

Fendi

SILKY SO FT FUR
Whether brightly coloured, autumnal or in
sophisticated white, fur is set to take centre stage in
this seasons looks. Used in small touches or for entire
garments, fur was given pride of place by labels such as
Moncler Gamme Rouge, where it adorned collars, coats,
skirts and even hats. Fur was also spotted at Paul & Joe,
at Valentino in multicoloured pastel shades, at Saint
Laurent in bright red and electric blue, at Chlo, at
Versace in a variety of colours and, of course, at Fendi.
Moncler Gamme Rouge

20

PRINTS GO W ILD
Although they never really exited the ready-to-wear
arena, animal prints are back in a big way with
Kenzos tiger-print collars, as well as in full-on
animal-print ensembles. In the fashion jungle, Sonia
Rykiel opted for python print, Givenchy mixed
python and panther motifs, and Dior went for
leopard. Blumarine brought animal-print to
accessories, along with Roberto Cavalli.

Kenzo

Alexander Wang

S H EER , F LOATY FAB RICS

Dresses get an almost spring-like vibe, becoming
lighter and sometimes even almost transparent. This
seasons gowns are a simple veil, with super-fine
fabrics, sheers, embroidery and netting-hinting at
the female form for a sensual, rather than sexy
effect. This trend was seen at Sonia Rykiel,
Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Andrew GN, Chalayan,
Dolce & Gabbana and Alexander Wang. The seasons
hottest look sees a very lightweight dress worn with
a long, heavy coat.

TRENDS / 21

Giambattista Valli

Celine

Chanel

Lanvin

Prada

Fendi

A LO NG STO RY

Isabel Marant

The quintessential winter piece, the coat, must be worn long and big this season. The fashion
set will be donning ankle-length cuts, but if the hems are at least touching your calves, you will
be safe with the in-crowd! Nina Ricci showed a selection of long coats in vinyl and fur while
Isabel Marant explored chunky knits and classic pieces finished with geometric prints. The
feminine interpretations are refined with cuts and shapes intentionally made sensual, like at
Giambattista Valli where the coats seemed to melt seamlessly into the dresses they covered.
Karl Lagerfeld also opted for refined style with Chanels loose quilted coat, modelled with a
perfectly matching scarf. For the slim silhouette, coats were cinched with wide belts, to
highlight and accentuate waistlines. This trend was spotted at Lanvin with a lam coat, and
with Fendis fur coat. For those loving a little more edgy touch, it is all about being oversized.
Cline showed a selection of coats in the same style, with very loose and straight cuts, worn
with baggy pants, sometimes with sportswear inspiration. Military-style khaki coats also bring
a masculine feel with several army-inspired outerwear options spotted at Prada.

22

BEHIND THE CRAFT:

LOUIS VUITTONS
BLOSSOM
The Monogram Flower, Louis Vuittons most-recognised
signature symbol, takes on a new bloom with the arrival of a
double collection that features both jewellery and precious
watches. Sculpted from mother-of-pearl and ornamental
stones, the flowers came to life at the expert hands of the
houses craftsmen.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

FASHION / 23
This three-dimensional
work on both mother-ofpearl and precious stones
allows the flower motif
to open its petals across
the sautoir necklaces,
pendants, bracelets and
earrings of the Blossom
jewellery collection.

Grey or white mother-of-pearl,

cornelian or tigers eye come
together in a visual echo of
Louis Vuittons trademark
colours in warm shades of
brown and gold. This same
softness is evident in the feel
of the pieces themselves:
hand-sculpted and polished,
the stones and mother-of-pearl
provide a rounded contour,
contrasting with the fine
chains of yellow and pink gold.

A gold nail similar to those

used on Louis Vuitton trunks
drives itself into the heart
of certain petals. This is a
subtle paean, giving added
sparkle with the presence of
two high jewellery pieces,
a long chain entirely paved
with diamonds and a
necklace with medallions of
sculpted mother-of-pearl on
a row of Tahitian pearls.

24

NEW
KIDS
ON
THE
BLOCK
New talents is the catchphrase in Parisand London, but the
cool kids across the Atlantic are bringing an alternative kind of
chic to New York Fashion Week. We highlight six of the mosthyped new American brands this season.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

FASHION / 25

Cinq Sept
The new brand from Jane Siskin and her team
at Jaya LLC (also behind the Elizabeth & James
and Seven for All Mankind brands), is firmly
a part of the advanced contemporary world.
Inspired by the French lifestyle and evening
allure, Cinq Sept, which translates as 5 to
7 is built around the concept of clothes for
that special time when day turns into night. Its
first collection launched for Pre-Fall 16 and
already debut in over 300 doors. The initial
assortment exudes a flirty, sophisticated and
romantic aesthetic, with plenty of cool-factor.

26

Baja East
New York-based lifestyle brand Baja East by
Scott Studenberg and John Targon is one of
the first luxury ambisexual brands. Its globalfeeling aesthetic combines Eastern influences
with West Coast attitude, and fits into a niche
market dubbed Loose Luxury. The Pre-Fall
16 collection from the CFDA Vogue Fashion
Fund finalists sets male and female models
side-by-side in similar looks with a very cool
sense of androgyny-sure to appeal to the
growing band of gender-neutral departments,
such as that of Selfridges.

FASHION / 27

Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst was born in Uruguay and grew up
on her familys ranch. After modelling throughout
Europe, she moved to New York to pursue a career
in fashion. In February 2015 Hearst launched her
namesake label that emphasises care, quality and
detail infused with tradition and purpose within
every garment. She takes great pride in the materials,
details, and construction to create long-lasting items
that reference her Uruguayan country roots as well
as a utilitarian New York lifestyle. Already picked
up by Barneys, the brand is a powerful, elevated
collection anticipated to draw attention.

28

Maud Heline
Maud Heline is a French designer based in
Brooklyn who makes all of her garments in New
York. She previously worked for Isabel Marant and
Balmain in Paris and later, Maiyet in New York.
She launched her namesake brand in 2014 and
currently sells to Barneys and Colette in Paris, with
hopes to expand her reach. The brand Maud Heline
has a very classic and minimalist design aesthetic
that focuses on elevating basics with finely attuned
details and silhouettes. Maud describes the full
poplin collections as classic designs with a twist,
bringing Parisian style to the US.

FASHION / 29

Protagonist
Kate Wendelborn founded Protagonist as
a brand that embodies classic elegance
with a subtle twist. New shapes and
dimensions take form on otherwise basic
styles, making them fresh and exciting.
Every piece is meant to be both casual
and elevated, in a subtle colour palette
that evolves each season. Currently,
Protagonist is sold at speciality boutiques
and online at Net-a-Porter, Barneys,
and The Line, a new online retail space
founded by Kates sister that curates
pared-down essentials.

42

THE MAKING OF
VERSACES
PALAZZO EMPIRE
The Palazzo Empire burst onto the scene last spring as Versaces new flag
for the IT bag phenomenon. The eye-catching colour combos is one of our
favourite things about the bag, and its versatility with the wide strap to keep
our hands free is a real bonus. Anchoring the tote is of course, the houses
signature Medusa head which comes in metallic options or tone-on-tone to
match the bags colour. But what makes the bag special is the craftsmanship
process that goes behind each piece. We had an exclusive behind-thescenes look at how the Palazzo Empire is brought to life.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Versace uses the most top-quality natural leather in

the world. This ensures that the organic beauty of the
leather comes through, and lasts for a lifetime of use.
This also ensures that a Versace handbag is soft and
smooth to the touch. After the selection of leather, and
highlighting any possible imperfections, the worker
arranges all the pieces of the pattern out on the leather.
Each piece of the pattern is cut out twice, and these
matching pieces are glued together for added durability.
This is called dubbing.

TRENDS / 43
A hammer is brought to bear on all the glued pieces, ensuring that
the glue bonds are secure and that there is no movement of pieces
as they prepare for stitching. One of the most important details
of a Versace handbag is the embossed logo on the inside. On the
Palazzo Empire, this is stamped in brass with a special brass tool.
The tool is heated to a very high temperature, so that it makes a
permanent indentation in the leather. A thin piece of brass foil
is laid upon the leather, so when the hot brass tool is pressed
against it, the Versace name is permanently transferred to the
leather. The sewing machine that will do the stitching is modified
many times throughout the process. Different threads are used,
different instruments are attached and detached, different
pressure is applied-all done because of the expert knowledge of
the sewer regarding what works best for each part of the handbag.

The Palazzo Empire has a contour line near the bottom,

which outlines the base of the bag. This is created by using a
fine length of cork, which is shaped into the distinctive curve.
This line of cork is then glued between the two pieces of
leather. Finishing touches are done with an instrument made
of bone. Once the cork is firmly in place and the leather has
been glued, the stitching is ready to begin.
The handbags are double-stitched with high-gauge thread,
to ensure that the bag is long lasting, to make sure that
it holds its shape for years and years. Its time to add the
metalwork to the handbag. The leatherworker uses a paper
pattern to ensure that the Medusa will be secured in just the
right position. Four little holes are made with a small metal
piercer, which yields four perfect, clean-edged holes, without
disrupting the smooth leather surface.

The Medusa head is added to the

Empire as the closure. A metal base
is secured over the four holes that
were made in the leather. Four
tiny screws hold it in place. The
final stage in production is perhaps
the most important. Specialists in
quality control closely examine
every millimetre of the handbag,
looking for any imperfection that
might have been caused through
the process.