University of California Cooperative Extension

Backyard Gardener
INYO AND MONO COUNTIES
207 W. SOUTH ST.
BISHOP, CALIFORNIA 93514

PESKY PESTS
By Alison Collin, UCCE Inyo & Mono Counties
Master Gardener
Cutworms
Cutworms have been labeled the cruelest of garden
pests, and anyone who has suffered losses caused by their
voracious appetites would surely agree. These are chubby
caterpillars, the larval form of night flying moths of several
different species. They can be up to two inches long and
vary in color from gray, tan, pink, green or black, spotted,
striped or plain. When disturbed they tend to curl up into a
tight C shape.
Lifecycle: Most often the adult moths lay eggs, either singly
or up to hundreds, on or near the soil surface in late
summer, and once the caterpillars emerge they feed on
various weeds until the colder weather when they tunnel
into the soil, overwintering as partially grown larvae ready
to feed greedily as soon as the warmer weather arrives.
Other species overwinter in the soil, or under plant debris
as pupae and the adult moths emerge in spring, crawling up
through the tunnel made by the caterpillar.
Feeding: Their name derives from the way that they cut
down young plants by chewing through the stems just
above ground level, sometimes not chewing all the way
through the stem, but damaging it enough to kill the plant.
This happens at night, and because the whole plant is not
eaten, just the bit at soil level, destruction is severe and can
cause great loss. Last year, having carefully tended trays of
seedlings indoors until the weather was warm enough to
place them outside I was disheartened when I discovered a
whole tray of brassicas lying on the top of the soil, their
tops still intact but the stems neatly cut. These plants had
been grown in commercial compost and placed on a
concrete patio, with no soil or other plants close by and I
never did discover where the culprit was hiding.

SPRING 2012
OFFICE (760) 873-7854
http://ceinyo-mono.ucdavis.edu

Some species feed on roots, while others climb onto plants

and devour leaves and shoots. I did catch one eating a
young Brugmansia, whose leaves were disappearing at an
alarming rate, by taking the plant into the house at night. I
could actually hear it eating, but it was so well camouflaged
that it took time to spot it.
Different species favor different plants, but some of the
preferred include: asparagus, corn, peppers, tomatoes,
beans, and the crucifer family. They will also attack many
kinds of herbaceous plants. They love sunflowers, which
can be used to advantage by planting them near crops to
draw the pests away, and then checking the sunflowers
nightly to remove the culprits manually.
Control: This includes cultivating land to remove weeds in
the late summer to discourage egg laying, cultivating
around plants by hoeing to disturb the larvae, introducing
chickens to run on fallow land, or encouraging toads into
the garden.
Young seedlings can be protected by
surrounding them with aluminum foil tubes, buried in the
soil to a depth of one inch and extending up the stems to
well above soil level, however in the hotter areas of the
Owens Valley this may cause the seedlings to overheat, so
cardboard may be a better option.
For more information about the different types of
cutworms and further control measures visit http://
www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/PESTS/
cutworm.html
or http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/
sheets/cutworms.html
Symphylans
These pests were unknown to me until last fall when a row
of spinach which I had planted failed to thrive. They had
germinated well in good soil, and weather conditions were
excellent yet these poor plants failed to make any growth,
and many died leaving me six plants in an eight foot row. I
dug these up with the idea of transplanting them to a
Continued on page 2

different area, and noticed that every one of them had a

tiny white centipede shaped bug wrapped around the
roots.

growing season. The time to prepare the ground and

improve the soil is while winter is in full swing. It's also
the right time to amend the soil and blend in compost.

These pests were unknown to me until last fall when a

row of spinach which I had planted failed to thrive. They
had germinated well in good soil, and weather
conditions were excellent yet these poor plants failed to
make any growth, and many died leaving me six plants in
an eight foot row. I dug these up with the idea of
transplanting them to a different area, and noticed that
every one of them had a tiny white centipede shaped
bug wrapped around the roots.

As a mostly self-taught gardener, I found mulching to be a

bit of a mystery. Over the years, lots of reading, research,
and paying attention to how Mother Nature tends her
garden, has given me some insight into this important
work. On windy fall days, I see that Ma Nature is raking
and piling leaves around bushes and trees, so I must do
the same. But, what to use?
Compost can work wonders during the winter. Unfinished
compost generates its own heat as soil bacteria break
down organic matter. When the compost is finished, the
resulting humus is a great soil amendment, rich in
nutrients and helpful bacteria. When spring comes
around, the areas where you worked compost into the
ground will support vibrant, healthy plants.

Symphylans are not insects but are in a class of their

own. They are less than .5 inch in length and they have
fifteen body segments, twelve pairs of legs, and a pair of
antenna on their heads. Those that I saw were white,
but they can also be bronze. They are tiny and very fast
moving, live in soils of high organic matter, reproduce in
compost and eat the roots of fibrous plants, especially
brassicas and spinach. They are particularly troublesome
in the Pacific Northwest, especially amongst those who
practice No Till gardening, forcing some to abandon
this method. They often take refuge very deep into the
soil.

Spreading out a layer of mulch over your garden will also

protect your garden soil from the elements and help any
winter plants growing in your garden. Shredded bark or
wood chips help to insulate your plants roots, and dark
colored mulch will soak up heat from the sun. Mulch will
also smother winter weeds. A 3 to 4 inch layer of organic
mulch is all it takes.

Suggested methods of control include crop rotation,

reducing excessive organic matter in the soil, moving
compost heaps well away from growing areas, and
applying diatomaceous earth to the soil surface. They
are particularly drawn to buckwheat, so some advocate
planting that close to crops in the hope that the
symphylans will be drawn to it instead. They seem not
to like impacted soils, and in field trials, the areas where
the tractor tires have been support lower populations
than the looser soil. It has been found that they are
particularly fond of potatoes, and placing a cut potato on
the soil surface, then checking it is a method which can
be used to gauge populations.

Mulch is any type of material that is spread or lain over

the surface of the soil as a covering. It is used to retain
soil moisture, suppress weeds, keep soil cool in summer
and make the garden bed look more attractive. As they
decompose, organic mulches also help improve soil
fertility. Examples of organic mulches include: bark
(shredded or chipped), compost, composted manure,
grass clippings, newspaper, shredded leaves, and straw.
While organic mulch will decompose and have to be
replaced, it will improve your soils fertility and organic
content. Generally the drier and woodier the mulch, the
more slowly it will decompose, and the less nutrients it
will provide to the soil. It pays to know the origin of
manure, compost and straw, since these materials can
contain viable weed seeds. The last thing you want is to
spread a mulch that is going to start sprouting.

For more complete information on symphylans and

other methods of control: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/
PMG/r108500111.html

Types of Mulches

THE MYSTERY OF MULCH

By Jan Rhoades, UCCE Inyo & Mono Counties
Master Gardener
Once the fall harvest is in, it is tempting to just let the
garden sit and wait for spring, but this time of year is
important for laying the groundwork of a successful
2

Bark mulches can be used around trees, shrubs and in

garden beds where you wont be doing a lot of digging,
like front walkways and foundation plantings. These
woody mulches dont mix well into the soil and it can
become a hassle to have to keep moving them aside to
make way for new plants. Just remember to keep mulch
around trees well away from the trunk.
Continued on page 3

Compost and Composted Manure can be used

anywhere, as long as they are relatively well composted
and weed free. You can use them as a coating of mulch
or simply side dress plants with them during the growing
season, to insulate and give a boost of slow released
nutrients.

work into the soil when its time to plant a new crop or
put the vegetable garden to bed.
Gravel and Stone work well as mulches in areas that
require good drainage and/or beds with plants that like a
little additional heat, like Mediterranean herb gardens
and rain gardens. Stone is hard to remove, so give it a lot
of thought before using stone or gravel as a mulch.

Grass Clippings are a mixed bag and are best suited to

remote areas of your garden where you basically want
to suppress weeds. Grass clippings, like most green plant
debris with a high water content, decompose very
rapidly and in the process they can get somewhat slimy,
with an unpleasant odor - so use with discretion. Grass
clippings also tend to mat down and not allow water to
pass through. Ideally you should leave clippings on the
lawn to add fertility to that soil. However if you do bag
your grass clippings, dont throw them away unless you
have used weed killer or some other pesticide on your
lawn. Synthetic lawn care products can be bad for some
flowers and you certainly dont want to use them in your
vegetable garden. But untreated grass clippings can
either be dumped into your compost bin or used to
mulch open, unplanted areas.

Whatever mulch you decide to use should be dictated by

the purpose and area where you are putting it. Finally,
make sure that the mulch you put down is pet-friendly,
easy to wet and wont blow away.

ACCIDENT CORNER: SAFE

GARDENING WITH CHILDREN
By Alison Collin, UCCE Inyo & Mono Counties
Master Gardener
The following website has excellent resources on
gardening with children of all ages, with imaginative and
practical ideas and projects: www.kiddiegardens.com/
index.html.

Newspaper as mulch is becoming more and more

popular. Most newspapers have switched over to
organic dyes, especially for their black & white sections.
Shredded newspaper has been used for years to keep
plant roots moist while shipping. Layered sheets of
newspaper also have great moisture retention abilities
and they act like other organic mulches as far as
suppressing weeds and controlling soil temperatures.
They are also great for smothering existing grass, to
jump start a new garden bed. To use newspaper as a
mulch in the garden, spread a layer of 4 - 8 sheets of
newspaper around the plants. Moisten the sheets to
keep them in place. On windy days its easier to moisten
the sheets before you place them down. Cover the
newspaper with a 1-3 inch layer of another organic
mulch and the weed protection should last throughout
the growing season.

Children benefit so much from being in a garden,

experiencing the change of seasons, watching plants grow
to provide either food or aesthetic beauty, or observing
insects and birds. It is therefore a sad paradox that it has
the potential to be one of the more dangerous
environments to which they are exposed. Anyone who
has looked after small children knows that it only takes
seconds for them to get into trouble. On one occasion we
discovered our three-year-old grandson swaying on the
top rung of a ladder which was propped up against the
roof and while we dealt with that crisis, his younger
sibling was investigating a patch of fungi which had
magically appeared in the lawn! Most of the safety issues
are the same as those which apply to adults, but there
are certain situations where the immaturity of small
children prevents them from being aware of danger or
able to extricate themselves from trouble.

Shredded leaves are perfect for woodland gardens and I

always spread a layer over my vegetable garden in the
fall, to begin decomposing over the winter. Unshredded
leaves can mat together and repel water. If you use
them as mulch, simply stir them up a bit if they appear
to get matted.

Here are some actions which gardeners can take in order

to keep the little ones safe:
Water: Drowning is the second leading cause of
accidental death (after vehicle accidents) in small
children, and many more suffer permanent brain
damage following accidental immersion. Do not
leave children unattended if there is water
anywhere in the garden; empty wading pools

Straw is also a popular mulch for the vegetable garden.

It keeps the soil and soil-borne diseases from splashing
up on lower plant leaves and make paths less muddy.
Straw decomposes very slowly and will last the entire
growing season. And finally, its easy to either rake up or

Continued on page 4
3

when not actively being used, securely fence all

swimming pools, streams and ponds, or better
still, empty them until children are older. It is so
tempting for a child whose ball or toy is floating
to try to reach out to get it, or they may trip on
an uneven surface and fall in. Older
children
may indulge in horseplay and push
each other
in, all of which is dangerous.
Tools: Do not leave sharp tools such as axes,
pruners or saws around. Apart from the obvious
danger of severe injury to the child, you dont
want to discover that your enthusiastic young
gardener has pruned your prized plants, or made
a deep saw cut in your favorite tree! Rakes should
be leaned with the prongs downwards - use this as
a teaching opportunity to show what happens if
you leave them the wrong way round. Older
children have been known to severely damage
their feet trying to dig with a spade or fork. Power
tools are not toys, and children should be kept
away from them. Power tools should be
unplugged immediately after use, extension cords
coiled, and stored under cover well out of reach.
Ladders are irresistible to the adventurous, so it is
inviting trouble to leave them leaning against the
roof or an old apple tree rescuing a small child
who is pretending to be a monkey is no easy
matter!
Chemicals:
Keep all chemicals - fertilizers,
insecticides, weed killers, etc. placed on a high
shelf in secure locked storage, and immediately
dispose of any that have been mixed but not used
dont leave them made up in watering cans etc.
Many fertilizers come as colored crystals which are
tempting to small children. Release the pressure in
any pressure sprayer before leaving it, even if it
contains only plain water.
Plants: Berries are very tempting to children,
especially if they have seen you pick and eat
various edible ones straight from the garden.
Make sure that you have no plants with poisonous
fruits in the garden, or make inaccessible any that
do have poisonous fruits, flowers or foliage. As
soon as children are old enough to understand,
explain that not all plants are edible. Watch out
for crops of fungi which have a habit of suddenly
springing up overnight. Injuries can also be
mechanical, such as those which occur when
touching the spines of cacti, the hooks on the
edges of agave leaves, or the cuts caused by sharp
edged leaves such as pampas grass make sure
that these are not at eye level. The oils in various
leaves can cause skin irritations. The ends of plant
supports such as bamboo or other sticks which
tend to have sharp or ragged tops should be

protected with rounded covers such as corks.

Creeping vines with strong stems can trip up the
unwary as it is easy to get a foot caught under a
stem, or between toes and shoe when wearing
sandals.
Mechanical:
Make sure that your garden is
fenced, and that the gate latches engage properly.
Keep children away from objects that might fall
such as unstable woodpiles. All small children trip,
but it is what they fall onto which causes the worst
injuries eg. rocks with sharp corners. Unanchored
strands of wire can spring and cause eye injury or
falls. Rotten fence posts with leaning panels are an
obvious hazard. Greenhouses, cold frames and
other structures made of unstrengthened glass
should be fenced or the glass protected by some
other means as it is all too easy for a child to fall
against these rather brittle structures, and they
also risk being broken by flying balls. Play
structures, especially tree houses should be well
constructed, securely anchored, checked regularly,
and their use strictly supervised.
Clothes: Sun hats and/or sunglasses should be
worn as well as long sleeved shirts to protect from
the very strong UV light which we experience in
this area. Shoes should give adequate protection
to toes, and protect from possible puncture
wounds caused by thorns, nails and the like.
Tetanus shots should be up to date. (http://
www.cdc.gov/Features/Tetanus/)
Animals: Cat and dog feces should be removed as
soon as possible. Apart from the general
unpleasantness of children stepping or falling into
such, some small children delight in eating it!
There is also the risk of infection by organisms like
Toxicaris canis (http://www.cdc.gov/parasites/
toxocariasis/gen_info/faqs.html)
and
Toxoplasmosis
(http://www.cdc.gov/parasites/
toxoplasmosis/gen_info/faqs.html). Play sand
should be covered when not in use to prevent cats
from using it as a latrine.

If your property borders wild lands, keep a watch out for

rattlesnakes, especially if your garden includes the type of
habitat that might attract them. Black widow spiders are
fairly common in and around nooks and crannies
associated with buildings, in stacks of plant pots, and in log
piles, so avoid letting children poke around in those places,
and as soon as they are old enough teach them how to
identify them.
Adults need to be aware that children can cause a hazard
such as throwing rocks onto a lawn with the potential of
either wrecking the mower blades or causing pieces of
rock to be thrown out while mowing, by leaving pieces of
string lying about for the unwary to trip.
4

Continued on page 5

Fortunately, not all of these hazards are present in every

garden and one cannot protect children from every
eventuality, but a little forethought and adequate
supervision will go a long way towards creating a
generation of enthusiastic gardeners for the future.

they can be referenced later. You might also

include rainfall totals and periods of unusual
weather in this segment of your garden journal.
You can use your journal as a diary or a blog recording
daily activities, thoughts and ideas. You may want to take
a few notes and keep a more formal journal on the
computer. There are templates and gardening
communities with group journals available on the
internet. Software for creating a garden journal (i.e.
Garden Management System) is also available.

KEEPING A GARDEN JOURNAL

By Jan Rhoades, UCCE Inyo & Mono Counties
Master Gardener

You can record as much or as little as you want, and you

may find it helpful to divide the journal into sections.
Items you may wish to include are: seed sources, costs,
and packets; guarantees and bills; notes on suppliers; key
dates (planting, germination, emergence, blooms,
transplanting, harvest); weather particulars (rainfall,
frosts, impacts); appearance of pests and pollinators;
application of fertilizer and chemicals; garden activities
and new methods; and general observations on progress,
successes and failures. Does a particular plant not grow
well by the front door? Did a new perennial bloom longer
than you had expected? Keep track of your vegetable
yields and variety favorites. These notes will keep you
from making the same mistakes twice, and they can help
you continue your gardening success in other areas. Be
sure to record how any gardening problems were
managed and if the chosen solution worked. You may
wish to include a map and garden plan laying out beds
and plantings, pictures (taken throughout the season or
at peak bloom), reference materials, a wish list (plants to
consider for the future, possible architectural
considerations like a pergola, hut, water feature or dry
river bed), dried blooms, favorite websites, recipes, and
inspirational thoughts. Dont forget to track gardening
costs as well; this can be an eye-opener at the end of the
year!

Okay, I admit it. In spite of the fact that I have been an

enthusiastic gardener for at least 35 years, I never felt
compelled to keep a dedicated garden journal until
recently. In the last few years, I have expanded my
veggie garden, adding fruit trees, berries and grapevines
to my yard, along with more perennials. I finally had to
admit that trying to remember when to divide and
replant bulbs and rhizomes, when to spray and prune,
and where I planted my tomatoes last year was getting
to be a chore. So, rather than scraps of paper shoved
into books and boxes, I began to note my gardening
activities in a weekly planner devoted solely to garden
stuff. Lately, I have also begun saving seed packets and
plant tags to help identify varieties that I like and have
planted. I use the planner to note when I spray and
prune, when I mulch and fertilize, when and where I
plant things. So, in my typical way, I am jumping in with
both feet this year, and have vowed to keep a true
journal. Deep winter is a good time to begin this process
soon enough the garden frenzy will begin! Here are
some ideas I have run across that might be helpful and
inspiring.

What to use:

A three ring binder most folks find this to be an

inexpensive and handy way to get started. A
binder that zips closed or has pockets in it
provides a handy way to just throw stuff in it and
sort it out later, when you have time.
Plastic page protectors these are good for
saving seed packets, instruction sheets, plant
tags, and for putting photos in your journal.
Digital photography makes it easy to record
stages of growth, plant problems and garden
design issues. Be sure to record the date and
add notes or captions to your photos.
Blank pages for creating maps, diagrams, and
jotting notes.
Calendar -- Including a calendar helps ensure
you dont miss vital garden care. You can note
when to fertilize or prune shrubs, as well as
when to mulch or divide tubers and rhizomes. Be
sure to mark when these are actually done so

While it seems like a lot to undertake at first, a journal

will actually save you time because its such an easy
reference and it can be as simple or as sophisticated as
youd like. Over time, you may find that your garden
journal is not only a wonderful scrapbook of you and your
garden, but a valuable personalized tool for your future
gardening endeavors. Happy journaling!

WINTER GARDENING CHECKLIST

By Jan Rhoades, Master Gardener and UCCE STAFF

"All through the long winter I dream of my garden. On the

first warm day of spring I dig my fingers deep into the soft
earth. I can feel its energy and my spirits soar."
-Helen Hayes
Continued on page 6

Wondering what you should be doing in your garden over the next few months? Check out these tips for gardeners living
in low desert, high desert, and high mountain climates of the Eastern Sierra.

Low Desert (Death Valley)

What to plant

February

March

April

Cool-season veggies: asparagus,

beets, green onions, Jerusalem artichokes, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard

Veggies: continue w/ coolseason veggies; warmseason seeds (bush beans,

melons, sweet corn)

Veggies: cucumber, squash,

melon, eggplant, tomato,
sweet potato

Other: bare-root fruit trees, shrubs,

cane berries, roses, vines
End of month: pepper and tomato
seedlings outdoors

What to treat

Apply complete fertilizer to new annuals and vegetables

Fertilize roses after mid-month

Utilize containers for fruit

trees, berries, and veggies if
soil is salty

Feed all plants

Watering

Thoroughly water between rains

Mow and water Bermuda

grass lawns

Deep water plants to promote

root growth and leach salts
from root zone

High Desert (Owens Valley)

What to plant

What to treat

Watering

What else?

February
Ground covers
Cold-hardy vines (wisteria)
Snow pea and onion starts
Seeds outdoors (w/row covers)

Mulch over flower beds and under

shrubs to mitigate freezing soil
Fertilize fruit trees 2-3 weeks before
expected bloom
Apply final dormant oil spray to fruit
trees before buds swell
Prune deciduous fruit and shade
trees, grapes, and roses
Check roses for aphids
Keep your landscape watered!

Keep bird feeders stocked for migrating birds

Plan spring vegetable seed order
Make a new compost pile

March
Vegetables: Beet, Carrot,
Chard, Spinach, Onion, Cauliflower, Peas, indoor propagation of seedlings
Other: cane berries, vines,
tubers, rhizomes, bare-root
trees, shrubs
Finish pruning grapes and
deciduous fruit, roses
Make sure fruit trees are
fertilized by end of March

Dont forget to water! Properly irrigated plants can resist frost better.
Put out feeders for migrating hummingbirds
Clean & organize tools
Plan out garden design
6

April
Vegetables: Beet, Broccoli,
Lettuce, Onion, Cabbage,
Green Leafies
Transplant warm-season edibles in Wall o Water

Test soil to learn the pH and

salt content
Aerate & fertilize lawn
(March or April)
Check plants for frost and
wind damage prune off dead
branches
Feed all plants
Deep water plants to promote
root growth and leach salts
from root zone
Be prepared to cover new
plants at a moments notice

Continued on page 7

High Mountain (Mono County, Aspendell and higher elevations in Inyo County)
February

What to plant

March

April

Seeds in flats (in

sunny window or
coldframe)

Permanent landscaping plants (trees, shrubs, cover)

Bare-root berries, deciduous fruit & nut trees, flowering
shrubs & vines (wisteria), roses, grapes, rhubarb, strawberries
Start seedlings: basil, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes
Sow seed (when soil can be worked): beet, carrot, lettuce,
onion, parsley, parsnip, pea, radish, spinach, chard, turnip,
seed potatoes
Set out seedlings: kale family (broccoli, Brussels sprouts,
cabbage, cauliflower)

What to treat

Keep an eye on landscape trees keep

excess snow off branches to prevent
breakage; cut off broken limbs.

Fertilize asparagus, rhubarb, roses, shrubs.

Apply dormant spray to fruit trees
Prune deciduous fruit trees before new growth
Prune grapes, roses, and flowering vines

What else?

Clean & organize garden tools

Build birdhouses
Plan & design garden

Cover row vegetables when temps drop

Dont forget to water

Other Winter Gardening Tips

Make sure pesticides and fertilizers are in a
protected area so they will not freeze.
Watch for live and over-wintering insects.
Winter does not mean that all bugs die. Identify
the insects you see and if they are causing a
problem treat accordingly. Remember, not all
bugs are bad.
Winter is great time to clean and sterilize your
pots. Soak pots in hot water and bleach at a ratio
of 1 cup of bleach to 10 cups of water. Soak the
pots until the water cools. Scrub pots
thoroughly. Rinse well with clean water and
allow pots to dry.
Winter is a great time to make other repairs. Fix
arbors and trellises, prepare tomato stakes,
peony cages and other plant supports, and clean
the garden shed.
Its not too early to amend the soil in your
vegetable garden with compost, lime, and
leaves. Do not till this in unless your soil is
friable. This means that a fist full of soil, when
squeezed in your hand, should fall apart when
you open your hand. Working your soil when it is
too wet will ruin its structure
Check mulch. Add more to paths for weed
suppression.
Winter Watering Reminder
Long dry spells in winter (such as what were
experiencing this year) can cause injury and death to the
roots of trees, shrubs, perennials, and lawns. While

plants do not need nearly as much water in the winter,

they need enough moisture to keep their roots,
evergreen leaves, buds, and stems hydrated. Insufficient
water may result in weakened plants that die in late
spring or summer, even if they appear normal. It also
leaves them more susceptible to pests and disease.
What to do: During uncommonly dry periods (no
moisture for 3 weeks), it is time to get out and irrigate.
Water between mid-morning and mid-day so that the
ground has time to absorb the moisture before freezing
again at night. As a general rule during February and
March in the Owens Valley, sprinkler systems with an
output of 1 per hour should be run once a week for
hour on each setting. The plants and trees will love you
for it and repay you come spring and summer!
Find more info online at www.ucanr.org/inyomono

IMACA CSA
By Julie Fought, UCCE Inyo & Mono Counties
Master Gardener
In mid summer of 2010, Inyo Mono Advocates for
Community Action (IMACA) started a pilot project loosely
based on the Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)
model. The endeavor was born out of IMACAs Planting
Hope, which empowers IMACA clients to produce their
own vegetables. Most CSAs are small organic farms
which produce food for local consumption, with shares
7

Continued on page 8

sold to local consumers, and boxes of fresh produce made

available weekly to shareholders. IMACAs CSA is slightly
different. The food is grown by IMACA interns on donated
land, and harvests go directly to the IMACA weekly Food
Bank of Lone Pine. The CSA project began as a twelvemonth pilot, with funding from Metabolic Studio of Los
Angeles.

As the timeline of the pilot CSA project ran out, most of

the gardens were put to sleep for the winter. However,
this is just the beginning. IMACA is now working on a
sustainability model, where IMACA growers (the interns
who learned so much) will eventually generate income by
producing food for sale. IMACA is also seeking any and all
appropriate collaborations to enhance local food
production and empower those who remain ever in need
of more fresh and nutritious produce.

On roughly $14,000, IMACA placed several interns in

learning positions to design, construct, plant and tend an
initial 1,000 square foot growing facility. The funding paid
for intern stipends, materials, seeds and starts. Each intern
worked 10-15 hours per week during the fall, spring and
summer growing seasons. The project started in July 2010,
and wrapped up in September 2011. The early
construction was extensive. The interns (joined
intermittently by enthusiastic volunteers) learned how to
take rough (& rocky!) desert land and create a fertile
growing space. To make it completely critter proof, they
dug out the space three feet down, then lined it with
woven together inch hardware cloth for the gophers.
They then backfilled with appropriate soil (which they
learned how to produce) and constructed a hotwire
system to keep out all other critters. This initial phase took
about six weeks. The interns then planted an experimental
sampling of greens and a large crop of garlic.

For questions on Planting Hope and IMACAs CSA program,

how to volunteer, and how to bring excess produce or fruit
to IMACAs weekly Food Banks in Inyo and Mono Counties,
please contact Jane McDonald, IMACA Community
Services Director, at 760-873-8557 ext 22, or
jmcdonald@imaca.net.

A NOBLE ENDEAVOR: GROWING

SOIL IN SOUTHERN INYO
By Julie Fought, UCCE Inyo & Mono Counties
Master Gardener
The Metabolic Studio is a Los Angeles-based foundation
that has been working in the Owens Valley for the past six
years on various artistic and philanthropic projects. Some
of these projects center around food security issues, such
as The IOU garden, now located at Willow and Main, in
Lone Pine. The IOU garden space is in partnership with
LADWP (whose lot it is on) and serves as a local growing
demonstration piece, as well as a meeting place to help
foster the food growing community.

Harvests to the Lone Pine IMACA Food Bank began in

September 2010 with radish. In early March 2011, lettuce
and spinach (which survived the winter) were bagged and
offered at the food bank. Additional greens crops went in
by late March. By late spring, there was a full array of
spring greens being harvested. In April, the interns built a
small greenhouse at one end of the space to keep the
summer starts warm until being planted in late May. By
then, there were 30 tomato plants, a large section of
potatoes, 20 pepper plants, squash, green beans,
cucumbers, a large crop of onions, and the chard that
produced all summer. The garlic yielded nearly 60 pounds.
At the end of the 2011 season, nearly 1,000 pounds of
fresh farm to table produce had been delivered (and
appreciated!) by the clients of IMACA Lone Pine Food
Bank.

In January 2010, the Metabolic Studio began its Soil

Project, which produces and distributes high-quality
composted soil throughout southern Inyo County, asking
only in return that recipients promise to grow more food.
Our ranch entered into a contract with Metabolic Studio to
produce quality soil and distribute it to local growers, thus
increasing the communitys capacity for local food
production. We started with manure from our seven
horses and mules. We added dried leaves, watered it, and
by the end of the summer of 2010 had delivered over 50
cubic yards of gorgeous, grow-ready top soil to various
back yard growers in Keeler, Lone Pine and the Alabama
Hills, as well as the Darwin Gardens community project,
which needed 100% imported soil.

The IMACA CSA is forever expanding. Besides the original

donated land, IMACA was able to use a growing space on
tribal lands generously donated by a resident, and to
harvest from the Metabolic Studios IOU Garden, the
Wellness Center, the Mt. Whitney Apartments, and
interns own backyards. The interns harvested and
delivered any and all available produce to the food bank,
raising awareness of whats possible to grow, and handing
out recipes for items such as kale and collards, that were
less familiar to residents.

The Forest Service requires that the pack stations remove

all animal waste from their facilities in the high country.
Cottonwood Pack Station hauled theirs to the county
8

Continued on page 9

dump. One September day, as I was watching the

Cottonwood Pack Station manure load sputter its way
down the mountain in Maxs old 454 GMC, I had an idea. I
flagged Max down and asked him to dump the load at our
ranch instead. He was shocked and looked as if he thought
I must be nuts. Who the heck would want that horrible
mess? For me, it meant massively increased volume. For
the pack station, it meant saving the additional (and
costly) 25 mile trek to and from the dump. It was a winwin situation.

For questions on the Metabolic Studio Soil Project, or to

arrange getting soil (south Inyo only), please contact Julie
Fought, at 760 264 3213, or email
delacourcabins@yahoo.com
Julie lives outside of Lone Pine on a small ranch. She loves
to grow food and, now, soil.

NEWS & NOTES

The work begins as the manure loads come in during

September and October. The load can be smelled for a
mile in every direction, and its potent stench can burn the
eyes if you stand too close. When the load arrives, I
immediately pile it in a spot that traps the odor (near a
section of willow and against a hill, far from the draft of
the creek) so it doesnt offend our cabin guests. As I pile it,
I layer in carbons--dried leaves, animal bedding, even
cardboard. Anything I can get my hands on. We can never
have enough carbon! Once its layered in, the strong smell
goes away as the carbons add oxygen and the appropriate
breakdown begins. The layered piles are kept damp until
the rains or snow arrive. By January, all of the piles, which
are many and very high, have been turned at least twice.
By late March, theyll be turned one more time and be
ready for distribution.

Garden plots available at the Bishop Community Garden

Are you interested in gardening at the Bishop Community
Garden this season? Applications are now available. You
may access versions in Spanish and in English by
downloading
from
the
Bishop
Community
Gardens website (easternsierragardens.org). Hard copies
are also available at the Master Gardener office in Bishop.
March 10 workshop How to Build Raised Beds
We will be kicking off our 2012 workshop series on
Saturday, March 10 at the Bishop Community Garden. The
workshop will demonstrate how to build a raised bed and
provide attendees with an instruction guide. It is free to
the public. Stay tuned for more details on our website
www.ucanr.org/inyomono or our Facebook account.

In 2010, the Metabolic Studio soil project produced and

distributed over 50 cubic yards of high quality soil. In 2011,
we put out 130 cubic yards. This year, we project 200 cubic
yards of grow-ready, rich loamy soil will be folded into
gardens throughout the southern Owens Valley. Deliveries
happen by dump trailer, or by buckets, depending on the
location. A lot of the soil is picked up at the ranch. Growers
with a truck can drive up and get loaded with our tractor.
So far, recipients number over 100 and range from firsttime growers to longtime growers frustrated with their
yards mediocre dirt. We filled the boxes in Darwin for
their community gardens and also added much needed soil
to several IMACA growing sites, Lone Pine FFA and the
Lone Pine Wellness Center. Metabolic Soil is helping to
grow and promote local food from Olancha to
Independence, from the Alabamas to Pangborn, out to
Keeler and on to Darwin. In return, soil recipients promise
to grow local food and share extra produce with the
community.

UCCE Inyo & Mono Counties Master

Gardeners is now on Facebook! Like
us to stay up to date on the latest
gardening happenings in the Eastern Sierra.

From a retail perspective, based on Home Depot prices for

bagged topsoil, the 2010 - 2011 soil yield was worth over
$24,000. Yes, an astounding figure. But bucket by bucket,
every tractor load, truck load, trailer load and bucket full
has been counted. What a gift to the valley this has been!!
And what a noble endeavor to grow soil!

The Bishop Community Garden and Master Gardeners

have been busy getting ready for spring. Stop by for a visit
to see how the work is progressing. The garden is located
in the southeast corner of the Bishop City Park, behind
Sterling Heights.
9

Dear local gardeners,

While we still have a month to go before the spring
equinox, in many ways it seems like winter hasnt yet
arrived. Thinking back to last March (when each weekend
brought a major snowstorm) reminds us that heavy snows
and cold are still a possibility. While its hard to know
whats in store for the coming months, the Master
Gardeners have numerous workshops and events planned
to get you out in the garden. Our first spring workshop
will be on March 10th at the Bishop Community Garden
(see News & Notes for details). To stay up to date on the
latest garden events in the Eastern Sierra, check out the
Calendar page on our website (ucanr.org/inyomono) or
follow us on Facebook. We look forward to seeing you out
in the garden!

In this issue:
Pesky Pestspages 1 & 2
The Mystery of MulchPages 2 & 3
Accident CornerPages 3-5
Keeping a Garden JournalPage 5
Winter Gardening ChecklistPages 5-7
IMACA CSAPages 7& 8

Sincerely,

A Noble Endeavor: Growing Soil in Southern

InyoPages 8 & 9

Hannah Murray
Master Gardener Coordinator

News & NotesPage 9

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religion, sex, disability, age, medical condition (cancer-related), ancestry, marital status, citizenship, sexual orientation, or status as a Vietnam-era veteran or special disabled
veteran. The University also prohibits sexual harassment. Inquiries regarding the Universitys nondiscrimination policies may be directed to the Affirmative Action Director,
University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, 1111 Franklin Street, 6th Floor, Oakland, CA 94607-5200 (510) 987-0096.

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
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would like to have it mailed directly to you,
please contact us at:
E-mail: cjellis@ucdavis.edu
Phone: 760-873-7854
he University of California, in accordance with applicable State and Federal laws and University policy, does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, national origin,
religion, sex, disability, age, medical condition (cancer-related), ancestry, marital status, citizenship, sexual orientation, or status as a Vietnam-era veteran or special disabled
veteran. The University also prohibits sexual harassment. Inquiries regarding the Universitys nondiscrimination policies may be directed to the Affirmative Action Director,
University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, 1111 Franklin Street, 6th Floor, Oakland, CA 94607-5200 (510) 987-0096.

Hannah Murray
Master Gardener Coordinator

News & NotesPage 9

Sincerely,

A Noble Endeavor: Growing Soil in Southern

InyoPages 8 & 9
IMACA CSAPages 7 & 8
Winter Gardening ChecklistPages 5-7
Keeping a Garden JournalPage 5
Accident CornerPages 3-5
The Mystery of MulchPages 2 & 3
Pesky Pestspages 1 & 2

In this issue: