2012 SLK 350 3.5 V6 (M276 Engine) Spark Plug Replacement
2012 SLK 350 3.5 V6 (M276 Engine) Spark Plug Replacement
2012 SLK 350 3.5 V6 (M276 Engine) Spark Plug Replacement
Front engine cover removed, showing the location of the five mounting clips:
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8. Do not remove the one-time use clamp holding the air filter housing tube to the resonance intake
manifold (see the white text and arrow in the step 5 photo above). If you do remove the clamp you
will have to buy a new one as it is a one-time use part.
9. Carefully move the air filter housing out of the way of the ignition coils by gently moving the housing
towards the front of the engine. Be careful not to damage the plastic/rubber tube connecting the
housing to the resonance intake manifold while moving the filter housing.
The Air filter housing moved out of the way of the right side of the engine as seen from the front of
the engine:
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Disconnect the M electrical connector from the top of the control unit by pulling the release clip on
the front of the connector as far as it will go towards the front of the car:
Pull the M connector straight up to remove it from the control unit as seen in the first photo below.
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Disconnect the F electrical connector from the top of the control unit by pulling the connectors rear
release clip as far as it will go towards the rear of the car:
Now pull the F connector straight up to remove it from the control unit.
Both M and F electrical connectors removed from ME-SFI Control Unit:
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11. Pull the F connectors wiring harness up to release it from the tie down clip on the ME-SFI bracket:
F connectors wiring harness released from the tie down clip on the ME-SFI bracket:
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12. Push the M and F connectors wiring out of the way of the ME-SFI control unit towards the middle of
the engine.
13. Push the ME-SFI Control Unit up from its bottom to free it from the mounting bracket. The bracket
has four rubber sockets that the control unit mounting studs are pushed into, two at the top and
two at the bottom. Wear gloves when doing this since the clearance around the bottom of the
control unit is quite tight. It takes a bit of force to release the control unit from the bracket
mounting sockets and you will probably bang up your hands when it does release.
ME-SFI Control Unit released from mounting bracket, ready to be removed from car:
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Front and back of removed ME-SFI Control unit showing mounting studs:
14. In order to gain access to the #5 spark plug and its ignition coil, the center part of the control unit
mounting bracket must be removed. This is where the F Connector wiring harness was removed
from in step #11. Unbolt the retaining Torx bolt and slide the center bracket up to remove it:
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a. On the top of the ignition coil, slide the ignition wire socket light grey locking tab to the
right to release the socket lock:
b. Note: removing a wiring socket from an ignition coil can be dicey. Sometimes a socket will
release easily from an ignition coil while other times it can be much harder to get the socket
off.
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c. Remove the wiring socket from the ignition coil by pulling the socket away from the coil
while pushing down on the grey tab at the same time. If that does not work try pushing the
top of the socket to the right while pressing down on the front of the grey locking tab (I used
a screwdriver to press the tab down in this case because of limited access):
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d. Unbolt the two Torx bolts holding the ignition coil to the engine head:
16. The ignition coil and spark plug connector form a single unit as seen in the first image below:
On the left side of the engine I could not get a good enough grip on
the coil to get it to release from the spark plug. This is a known
problem as Mercedes now recommends using spark plug
connector grease on the inside of the connector boot when
installing ignition coils (see the end of this document for more
details).
On the right side of the engine this was not a problem as I was able
to pull the ignition coils from the spark plugs by hand.
To get around this problem I made an ignition coil puller from a
piece of wooden broom stick and some nylon cord
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17. Using the handmade puller, wrap the nylon cord around the base of the ignition coil and twist
the cord to retain a good fit around the coil (#5 ignition coil shown for clarity):
Now pull the wooden handle straight up (or as much straight up as you can manage). The coil
spark plug connector should release from the spark plug with a loud pop:
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18. Now the spark plug can be removed using a thin-wall, 14 mm, 12 point spark plug socket.
I used this 3/8 drive 14mm 12 point spark plug socket that I found on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Spark-Plug-Socket-Thin-Wall-3-8-Drive-12-PT-Point-14mm-FITSBMW-MERCEDES-/161581637358?hash=item259f041eee&item=161581637358&vxp=mtr
The genuine Mercedes spark plug socket (278 589 00 09 00) can be found here (at over double the
price of the one above):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Spark-Plug-Socket-Thin-Wall-3-8-Drive-12-PT-Point-14mm-FITSBMW-MERCEDES-/161581637358?hash=item259f041eee&item=161581637358&vxp=mtr
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Note: you will have to use a swivel adapter or swivel socket to remove some of the spark plugs.
A tool that saves me a lot of time and trouble when dropping small parts into the engine bay is
the IMPELTronics Magnetic Extensible LED flash light. It telescopes and has a strong magnet at
each end:
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Installation
In general installation is the reverse of the removal process, however, below are some things to note.
1. I used Bosch ZR 6 SII 3320 spark plugs which are the OEM replacement parts for Mercedes
A0041596403 spark plugs. The Mercedes branded plugs are about double the price of the Bosch
plugs. The plugs come pre-gapped at 0.7 mm.
2. Before installing the ignition coils be sure to apply spark plug connector grease (I used Permatex
Dielectric Tune-Up Grease) to the inside of the bottom of the coils spark plug connector as
mentioned in the Mercedes Star Bulletin shown below:
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3. Dont forget to re-install the center section back on the Control Units main mounting bracket:
4. When installing the ME-SFI Control Unit be sure it is mounted correctly in its mounting bracket. The
unit has four mounting studs and one locator tab on its back. Make sure that the units locator tab
is pushed into the brackets bottom slot. Then push the units four studs down into the brackets
four sockets. There should not be any movement at the top or bottom of the unit if it is installed
correctly.
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5. After connecting the F and M wiring connectors to the ME Control Unit sockets make sure that their
release clips are pushed all the way in. Pushing the F connector down into the control unit socket
automatically pushes in its clip. However, the M connector requires its clip to be manually pushed
fully home. Be sure to push the F connector wiring tie-down back into the center bracket hole.
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