THREADS

Thread holds everything together when you're sewing. Which means whether you're sewing
by hand or by machine, it's important to choose wisely when considering the different types
of sewing thread for your project. But if you've ever found yourself in the fabric store, staring
at a wall of spools, you know that's not always an easy choice!
HERE'S A BRIEF RUNDOWN ON THE DIFFERENT
TYPES OF THREAD:

COTTON THREAD

Cotton thread has very little "give" and tends to break easily. However, it's a good choice
when sewing delicate fabrics or for lingerie sewing projects. Choose a medium thickness
cotton thread for working with lightweight to medium-weight cottons, linens and rayons.

POLYESTER THREAD

Polyester thread is a a true all-purpose thread, and it's a good choice for most sewing projects,
both machine- and hand-sewn. The thread has some give to it, so it won't break when you are
working with stretchy knits. Polyester thread often has a wax or silicone finish that allows it
slip through the fabric easily. You can also find invisible polyester thread, which is an ideal
choice when you are searching for an extremely strong thread that will also stay hidden.

HEAVY-DUTY THREAD

Heavy-duty thread is also a polyester thread, but the weight of the thread is not suitable for
most garment sewing projects. It is, however, the perfect choice when sewing upholstery and
canvas, so you might find yourself reaching for it when you're tackling home decor sewing
projects.
SILK THREAD

Silk thread is very fine. It's also flexible and won't leave holes, so it makes an excellent
choice for basting thread. It's also great to use when sewing silk or wool.

WOOL THREAD

You probably won't have many occasions to use wool thread when sewing garments, as it
tends to be used for embroidery projects, but it is an extremely strong thread that's a good
choice when working with heavy fabrics like wool and canvas. It can be a good option for
topstitching-- just be sure to use a larger needle and adjust your sewing machine's tension
appropriately.

METALLIC THREAD

Metallic thread is often featured on handbags; you can find it in gold, silver and copper
varieties. It's used often in machine embroidery, and would be a good choice if you were
looking a thread with a little flair for topstitching.

DESIGNER THREAD

These are typically made from combining two or more types of thread, like a silk and rayon

Thread sizes

Thread Size
How big is a thread? Its pretty easy to measure the length, but how thick is it? What do
those numbers like 30/2 and T-25 mean? As it happens, those numbers are all based on
weight, not diameter. The sewing industry fundamentally doesnt measure thread
diameters (monofilaments being an exception). So you have to know what a fine or
coarse thread is based on those cryptic numbering systems. I will explain where they
come from, what typical thread sizes are, and where to get more information.

There are some other critical questions for DEs. Are your suppliers and contractors using
the same thread sizing system you are? Will everyone understand how to interpret size
40 thread? Because there are so many thread sizing systems in use, the potential for
miscommunication is significant. I have some recommendations for avoiding
misunderstandings when writing technical packages or style sheets.

Starting a couple of hundred years ago, every community of spinning mills had their own
thread sizing system. Not just each country or region, but each fiber, as well. Today there
are still quite a few surviving thread sizing systems. The cotton count system, the tex
system, and the metric ticket system are the ones most often encountered in general
sewing. I will mention a few others that still show up in niche applications.

All thread sizing systems are based on length and weight. There are fixed weight systems
which measure how much thread weighs a given amount, and fixed length systems which
measure how heavy is a given length of thread. These are sometimes called indirect and
direct systems, respectively. A finer thread gets a larger number in a fixed weight system
and a smaller number in a fixed length system, which is just one of the many sources of
confusion about thread sizing.

There are a couple of reasons why threads are sized by weight. From the spinning mills
point of view, a pound of fiber is a pound of fiber. It has the same amount of raw material
in it, no matter how coarsely or finely its spun. Once mechanized ring spinning was
introduced around 1830, the additional labor or wastage needed to spin more finely
became negligible. And how, exactly, do you measure a threads diameter? Making tiny
measurements was much harder 200 years ago than it is today, and its not trivial today. A
thread is not a rigid object. Squeezing it in a micrometer will flatten it out. And (with the
exception of modern monofilaments) it has a literally fuzzy boundary. If you look at one
under a microscope, where does the thread end and the air begin? Will three different
inspectors make the same decision? On the other hand, measuring the length and weight
of a thread is very easy and accurate.

Thread weight for all of these systems should be measured for as-spun griege yarn.
Dyes, sizing, lubricants and bonding agents can all increase the weight of the yarn,
sometimes very significantly. It was not unheard of for unscrupulous mills to take the
thread weight after loading the thread with various compounds. Depending on the thread
sizing system, this would give the size corresponding to a finer or a stronger thread.
Thread length should be measured when the thread is not under tension, as all threads
have some amount of stretch. Loosely spun yarns can have an enormous amount of
stretch.

Because thread sizing is based on weight, threads made from different materials can be
different in size but have the same number (or have the same size but different numbers).
That is true no matter which specific thread sizing system you use. For a given weight,
there will be less fiber from dense materials than from lighter ones. This is actually
noticeable when comparing extruded filament synthetics (nylon or rayon) against spun
staple cotton.
Specific Thread Sizing Systems
The cotton count system is based on the number of 840 yard hanks you get from one
pound of thread. You get 8,400 yards of size 10 (coarse) or 84,000 yards of size 100
(extremely fine) from one pound of cotton yard in this system. The size is measured for
an individual yarn or strand. Most threads are made from multiple strands or plys. In the
cotton count system, 50/2 designates a two-ply thread made from two size 50 yarns. That
has the same fiber content as one size 25 yarn.

The cotton count system is sometimes called the yarn size system. Despite the use of
arbitrary and archaic units, the cotton count system is still used heavily world-wide to
describe fabric yarns as well as sewing thread. (Unfortunately, Super 120s and similar
wool yarn sizing is the product of marketing deparments, not an actual sizing system.
However, cotton count sizes are used for most other fabric yarns.) While this system grew
out of the cotton spinning industry, its use is not restricted to cotton threads. Polyester
and polyester-cotton threads are frequently sized in this system.

The Hong Kong ticket system is the same as the cotton count system, just written without
the slash. So a cotton count 50/2 thread is a Hong Kong ticket 502 thread.

There are several derivations from the cotton count system that use a size without a ply
count. Singles equivalent gives the single yarn size (1-ply) with the same weight as the
thread being measured. For example, 30/3 is singles equivalent size 10, while 30/2 is
singles equivalent size 15. Thread weight gives the yarn size of the 2-ply thread with the
same weight as the thread being measured. For example, 30/3 is thread weight 20 (20/2
= 30/3), while 30/2 is thread weight 30. Thread weight is used commonly for embroidery
threads. Cotton ticket gives the yarn size of the 3-ply thread with the same weight as the
thread being measured. For example, 30/3 is cotton ticket 30, while 30/2 is cotton ticket
45 (45/3 = 30/2). You have to know which of these systems is being used, or your thread
sizes can be off by a factor of three!

The Tex system is based on the weight in grams of a thread 1 kilometer long. A kilometer
of tex 10 (very fine) thread weighs 10 grams, while a kilometer of tex 100 (very coarse)
weighs 100 grams. The Tex system measures the entire thread, no matter how many
strands or plies it has. While a thread can have any actual weight, the Tex system has
offi cial ranges of sizes that get the same Tex number. For example, all threads weighing
between 24.0 and 26.9 grams per kilometer are designated T-24.

The Tex system is, in my opinion, the least ambiguous and most logical system to use
when communicating a thread size in most situations. The ISO (International
Organization for Standardization) is pushing Tex for national standard use world-wide.
Suppliers and contractors who dont normally work in Tex should still be familiar with it. Of
course, if you are sourcing hand-spun yak yarn, you are going to get what got made, no
matter what you ask for. And there are some parts of the industry (embroidery floss,
knitting yarns) that have not started using Tex measurements.
The metric count system is based on the number of 1 kilometer hanks you get from one
kilogram of thread. If we were doing high-school word problems in math class, we would
find that the metric count size is 1000 divided by the Tex size. So size 100 is a fine thread
and size 10 is extremely coarse. This system is sometimes called thread weight, but
should not be confused with the other thread weight system based on cotton count.
Usually the metric count system is applied to an entire thread, but sometimes the
individual ply size and ply count are given. So you cant assume 70/2 is a cotton count
size. It could be a metric count size. Metric ticket gives the metric count yarn size for the
3-ply thread with the same weight as the thread being measured. In other words, metric
ticket is three times the metric count for the whole thread. Metric ticket is very widely
used.

The denier system is based on the weight in grams of a thread 9 kilometers long. Denier
is most often used for continuous filament threads (especially synthetics) rather than
threads spun from staple fibers. The name may be familiar from descriptions of nylon
fabrics, 750 or 1000 denier ballistic cloth for luggage is woven from very heavy yarns,
and 200 denier packcloth is woven from fine yarns. Denier measurements should
obviously be nine times larger than Tex for the same yarn. However, denier is sometimes
applied to individual strands of a multi-ply thread, while Tex is always applied to the entire
thread. Denier sizes are usually written as 1000d, 200d, and so on.

Commercial sizes for heavy-duty thread used in upholstery and webbing (e.g., safety
rigging and vehicle tow straps) are 33, 46, 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415 and 554.
These sizes are the denier measurement divided by 10. (A size 554 thread is about 1/32
or 0.8mm in diameter, which is as large as some decorative trims!)

Linen count and wool count sizes are related to the cotton count system, but they use
different units of length. In fact, the wool count system never really agreed on how long
one skein or hank was. 256 yards was common, but both larger and smaller units were
used. Today, different units are used for woolen and worsted yarns! The linen count,
which still may be encountered in specialty niches like heirloom sewing and lacemaking,
is based on 300 yards. Like cotton count, these systems are applied to individual strands
or yarns, and the number of plies is shown separately.

Silk machine twist sizes are another fixed weight system, but the sizes are given as
letters rather than numbers, ranging from 000 through A through F and then to FFF.
Exactly what length a given letter means was always somewhat arbitrary, based on the
manufacturer of the thread, but there is reasonably good agreement on the common sizes
A, B and F. Very roughly, size A is 900 yards per pound of thread, and every 100 yards
difference is one letter size different. This system is applied to the entire thread, not
individual plies. Today this system is found mostly in hand tailoring (where it applies to
nylon and silamide threads as often as actual silk). Size A is a general-purpose thread,
size B is for heavy seams, and size F is for worked buttonholes.

There is another letter-based thread size system used in US government contracts. Its
sizes are very roughly the same as the silk machine twist system, which makes it easy to
confuse the two. In this system, size 00 is about T-16, size A is about T-24, size AA is
about T-30, size B is about T-45, size E is about T-70, and size F is about T-90. These
sizes are controlled by formal specification, not the whims of thread makers;
unfortunately, I dont have a reference to the actual spec.

Tire, YLI and other contemporary silk thread makers use a numeric, fixed weight system
that I have not pinned down. A size 100 silk thread is very fine, similar to T-10, while a
size 15 silk thread is roughly T-40. If anyone knows the length unit for this 1
kilogram fixed weight silk system, Id appreciate the information.

That by no means exhausts all the thread sizing systems still in use, but its exhausted
me. So lets boil all that down into a table comparing the systems just described. Its
worth repeating that the cotton count, Tex, metric ticket, and perhaps denier, systems are
the principal ones you will see, unless you are in a specialty area.

Thread Sizing Systems Chart

The number of thread sizing systems makes a miscommunication between you and your
suppliers and sewing contractors very possible. There are several things you can do to
ensure mutual understanding.

Always state the thread sizing system explicitly when specifying a size. Use the
name in words at least once, and the symbols at every occurrence. Never give just
a number. Size 40 is a recipe for disaster.
If you are specifying thread from a specific manufacturer, use the manufacturers
sizing and nomenclature. Spell it all out.
Use a single thread sizing system throughout a technical package or style sheet if
possible. If different threads are sized using different systems, you have another
area of potential confusion.
If you use cotton count sizing, spell out the ply count. If you must provide the
cotton ticket, thread weight or singles equivalent (no ply count), make it explicit
which sizing system you are using. E.g., thread weight 20 (= 30/3) or singles
equivalent 10 (= 30/3).
Use Tex sizes unless there is good reason otherwise.
Dont confuse cotton count with cotton ticket, or metric count with metric ticket.
Send samples of thread if you have them. While nobody but a textile scientist will
put thread under a microscope, a supplier or contractor can do an eyeball test to
confirm they understand the size you meant.

How Various Sizes Relate

Rather than give formulas to convert between all these systems, Ive put together a small
table with five typical thread sizes. Each column describes one real-world thread,
showing what the various thread sizing systems would call that same thread. The needle
sizes are American & Efirds recommendations. For something less than full-speed
production, you might be able to use one size smaller, but I have seen recommendations
even larger than A&Es so dont get carried away.
 Sample Sizes Chart

I would like to include another item from American & Efird here. Thread size
recommendations are usually given in terms of application (e.g., lingerie, dress shirts,
pants, work clothes). A&Es list is based on fabric weight, instead. (Errors in the metric
weights would be my fault.)

Fabric Weight (oz/yd^2) Fabric Weight (g/m^2) Thread Size

2 to 4 65 to 135 T-16 to T-24
4 to 6 135 to 200 T-24 to T-30
6 to 8 200 to 270 T-30 to T-50
8 to 10 270 to 340 T-40 to T-60
10 to 14 340 to 475 T-60 to T-135
Thread Size Recommendations

Introduction
The smallest failure in thread performance results in losses on investments in material, equipment,
garment engineering, and labour. Hence, it is important to know your thread thoroughly. Enhancing thread
knowledge, analysing thread parameters, the right selection procedure and use of thread plays a major
role in achieving good sewing performance and the desired seam quality.
This Bulletin Post serves an introduction to the types of threads, the properties,
thread construction, and factors affecting thread performance.

What is a sewing thread?

Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing
machine rapidly. They form efficient stitches without breaking or becoming distorted during the useful life
of the product. The basic function of a thread is to deliver aesthetics and performance in stitches and
seams.

What are the factors that affect functions of a sewing thread?

Factors affecting aesthetics
Colour, lustre and fineness / thickness should be considered while selecting a thread for decorative
purposes such as top stitching or embroidery.

Other considerations include:

Hue and shade matching
Colour fastness
Stitch selection
Uniformity of stitch formation

Factors affecting performance

Thread used in garments must be durable enough to withstand the abrasion and needle heat that occur
while sewing, garment finishing, stretching and recovery during wear.
 Thread performance in garments can be evaluated from its
Seam strength
Abrasion resistance
Elasticity
Chemical resistance
Flammability
Colour fastness

What is 'sewability'?
'Sewability' of thread is a term used to describe a sewing threads performance. A thread with good
sewability is uniform in diameter with a good surface finish. Longitudinal uniformity of thread contributes
to uniform strength and reduced friction, as it passes through the stitch forming mechanisms. It also
minimises thread breakages and the associated costs incurred from rethreading machines, repairing
stitches and producing inferior quality products.

Sewability parameters
The parameters that define the superior sewability of thread are:
No breakages in high-speed sewing
Consistent stitch formation
No skipped stitches
Evenness, to prevent changes in tension during sewing
A high level of abrasion resistance
Sufficient surface smoothness, to pass easily through the machine guides

Thread classification
Thread can be classified in different ways. Some common classifications are those based on:
Substrate
Construction
Finish

1. Classification based on substrate

Natural
The usage of thread made from natural substrates is now minimal in industry applications. However, the
most commonly used natural thread is cotton thread.
Synthetic
Due to the limitations of natural fibres, thread users have turned to threads made from synthetic fibres as
they have desirable properties of exceptionally high tenacity, high resistance to abrasion and good
resistance to chemicals. They are also not significantly affected by moisture, rot, mildew, insects or
bacteria.

2. Classification based on construction thread structure

Spun thread is made using natural or synthetic
fibres. Spun polyester is one of the most widely used threads. It is stronger than cotton threads of a
comparable size, and is available in a wide variety of sizes and colours.

Corespun thread is a combination of staple

fibres and filaments. The most commonly used corespun thread has multiple-ply construction, with each
ply consisting of a polyester filament core with cotton or polyester fibres wrapped around the core.

This thread structure influences the strength of filament polyester and the sewability of cotton or polyester
fibre wrap. Corespun thread is generally used for the high-speed sewing of many garment types,
especially those requiring high seam strength.

Filament threads are stronger than spun threads of the same fibre and size.

Three types of filament threads are commonly used:

Monofilament thread is made from a single
continuous fibre with a specified thickness. Though monofilament is strong, uniform and inexpensive to
make, it lacks flexibility and is stiff and scratchy in feel. As a result, usage is normally restricted to hems,
draperies, and upholstered furniture.

Smooth multifilament thread is usually

made from nylon or polyester and is used where high strength is a primary requirement. It consists of two
or more continuous filaments twisted together. It is commonly used to sew shoes, leather garments, and
industrial products.
 Textured filament thread is usually made
from polyester and is used primarily as the looper thread for cover stitches. Texturing filaments gives the
yarn more cover and high extensibility, but makes the thread more subject to snagging.

Basics of thread construction

All conventional sewing threads begin their production cycle as simple yarns. These basic yarns are
produced by twisting together relatively short fibres or fine continuous filaments.
Some terms used in the context of thread construction are:
Twist Twist is simply the number of turns per unit length. A thread with too little twist may fray and
break, one with too much twist can cause snarling, looping and knotting. Balance is the key and a good
sewing thread has it.
Twist direction The direction of the finishing twist is important, twist can be inserted in either
direction and this is described as either Z or S twist. Most common machines use a Z twist thread. There
are other descriptions of twist which were used in the past but these should not be used to avoid
confusion.
 Direction of twist does not affect the strength of the thread, but it can seriously impair its performance
when it is used on a machine for which it is not suited.
Ply and cord Yarns with many components are twisted together to form ply thread. Most commonly
used are 2, 3 or 4 ply threads. Threads are twisted together to give corded thread. Most commonly used
are 4, 6 or 9 cord
threads.

Size The overall thickness of the final thread is referred to as Grist, Ticket Number, Tex or Count.
Thread should be as fine as possible depending on the required strength of seam. Generally, thicker
threads have greater strength, given the same fibre content and yarn structure. Finer threads tend to
blend into the fabric surface and are less subject to abrasion than seams with heavier threads. Finer
threads perform better with finer needles and produce less fabric distortion than heavier needles.

3. Classification based on thread finish

Finishes are given to a thread for two purposes
1. To improve sewability
Some finishes involve increasing strength, abrasion resistance and lubrication of the thread.
2. To achieve a specific functional requirement
Some finishes include bonding, non wick, anti-fungal, fire retardant, water repellent and anti-static
finishes.

Package support
Sewing threads are put in different types of packages according to the types of thread, machines and
sewing needs. Package support is important for the thread to perform at its best during transport and
usage in machines. Packages may be colour coded according to the size and type of thread for easy
identification.

Thread terminology
With a wide selection of threads to choose from, it is important to know some of the terminology
associated with significant thread properties to judge the differences between different thread types.
Tensile strength is the tension at which a thread breaks, expressed in grams or kilograms (force).
Tenacity is the relative strength obtained by dividing the tensile strength by the thickness of the
structure.
Loop strength is the load required to break a length of thread which is looped through another length
of the same thread.
 Minimum loop strength is the strength of the weakest loop in a series of loops (tested in a
continuous length of thread).
Elongation at break is the amount by which a thread is extended at its breaking point expressed as
a percentage of its original length.
Modulus is a term used to denote a numerical value which indicates the manner in which the textile
behaves when a tensile force is applied.
Elasticity is a property of the thread which enables it to recover to its original length after being
extended by a set amount.
Shrinkage is the amount by which a thread contracts under the action of washing or heating.
Moisture regain is the weight of moisture in a fibre or thread expressed as a percentage of weight of
completely dry material.

Requirements of good quality sewing thread

 Good tensile strength holds the stitched seam securely during wash and wear.
Smooth surface and absence of faults ensures less friction between the needle and the
material during high-speed sewing. The thread must be well lubricated to increase its sewability and
resistance to abrasion.
Uniform thickness / diameter results in an even sewing thread, which moves smoothly and
quickly through the needle eye and the fabric. It also affects the threads tensile strength, resistance to
abrasion and its twist construction. An uneven thread may twist into short knots and jam at the eye of the
needle.
Good elasticity enables thread to recover its original length immediately after the tension has been
released. The elasticity of sewing thread affects the strength and the finished quality of a stitched seam.
Good colour fastness provides immunity to the different agents the thread is exposed to during
manufacture and washing. The thread must hence be uniformly dyed.
Low shrinkage of the thread being used on the fabric material with higher shrinkage reduces the
chances of seam puckering.
Good resistanceto chemical attack is a desirable property for thread used in garments which
may undergo washing, bleaching or dry-cleaning.
Good abrasion resistance ensures a good sewing performance and makes the thread more
durable.

The following figures show the results of thread-to-thread abrasion tests and give an indication of their
respective resistance to abrasion:

If Linen, Rayon Continuous Filament (CF) has resistance of 1, then:

Cotton = 3
Spun Silk = 4
Spun Polyester = 12
CF Polyester = 30
Spun Nylon = 40
CF Nylon = 150
Good colour fastness will retain the threads original colour without running or fading when subjected
to wash and light exposure. The thread colour should be resistant to different agents to which it is
exposed during manufacture and use.
Colour fastness can be measured against:
Chlorinated water
Perspiration
Cold water staining
Dry cleaning
Pressing - wet and dry
Bleaching
Minimal metamerism can be achieved by assessing colour with colour matching cabinets.
Metamerism is an inherent property of a thread when the same thread colour appears to be different
under different lighting conditions. Standard illuminants are often used to counter the effects of
metamerism
Raw Materials

Silk thread
Silk worms produce cocoons from which silk is made. The female silk worms feed on
mulberry leaves until the worms mature and begin to spin cocoons. The worm
secretes the silk thread from specialized glands below its mouth. It completes the
cocoon around itself; over a two- to three-week period, it becomes a pupa then a
moth. The cocoons can be harvested when the pupas are still inside so that so-
called nett silk can be produced; cocoons are also collected after the moths have
hatched, and silk from these is termed Schappe silk.

Cotton thread
Cotton is picked from cotton plants in the field and compressed into large bales. The
bales often contain dirt, broken pieces of cotton boll, seeds, and other impurities, so
cleaning is a first step at the mill. The bale is broken, the fibers are opened by a
comb-like device, mixed together, and cleaned. The cleaned cotton fibers are termed
laps. The laps are fed into a carding machine that separates the fibers. Further
cleaning, combing, and sorting readies the fibers for processing into thread.

Cotton thread is produced from large cotton bales that are cleaned, combed, carded, twisted, and spun.
Polyester thread is derived from petroleum that has gone through a cracking process. During the cracking
process, crude oil is broken down into a number of components that will be processed into a range of
products from gasoline to plastics including polyester. Xylene, a hydrocarboncompound, is generated during
cracking. Nitric acid and glycol are added to modify the xylene by a series of chemical reactions. The fluid is
heated and condensed in an autoclave, and the molecules align to form long molecules called polyester.
The resulting mass is extruded, cooled with water, and cut into chips. These chips are shipped from the
refinery to the thread manufacturer for spinning.

Polyester thread
Polyester is a petroleum product. During the cracking process, crude oil is broken
down into a number of components that will be processed into a range of products
from gasoline to plastics including polyester. Xylene, a hydrocarbon compound, is
generated during cracking. Nitric acid and glycol are added to modify the xylene by a
series of chemical reactions. The fluid is heated and condensed in an autoclave, and
the molecules align to form long molecules called polyester. The resulting mass is
extruded, cooled with water, and cut into chips. These chips are shipped from the
refinery to the thread manufacturer for spinning.
Design
Engineers who design sewing thread are called seam engineers. They are
experienced in the practical aspects of sewing, sewing machine operation, and
clothing manufacture. When a new sewing thread is designed, the needs of the
specific market are analyzed carefully, and a prototype thread is produced and tested
under actual use conditions. The best thread products are needed to meet the
demands of new and everchanging markets.

The Manufacturing
Process

Nett silk
1 Cocoons containing the pupas are heated with air to keep the pupas inside.

2 The cocoons are immersed in water and a brushing motion unwraps the silk
thread; a single thread can be up to 1,000 yd (3,000 m) long.

There are two types of silk manufacture. Both use the cocoon of the silk worm to produce silk
thread, however, one processes the cocoons that still contain the pupa, producing a soft silk
called nett silk. The other utilizes cocoons that have already hatched to produce schappe silk.
To make nett silk hot air is used to inhibit the growth of the pupa inside the cocoon, the cocoon
is unraveled, and several yarns are wound together to produce a thread. Since it is derived
 from the older, hatched cocoon, schappe silk manufacture begins with the soaking, softening,
washing, and drying of the cocoons. Next, the cocoons pass through steel rollers with combs to
produce bundles of long, straight fibers of silk, which are combed, twisted, and spun into
thread.

3 Several threads from the same cocoon are wound together in long loops or
hanks to produce a single yarn. Three of these single yarns are twisted to
produce nett silk thread. More than three single yarns can be used depending
on the planned use of the thread.

Schappe silk
4 Schappe silk is made from cocoons from which the silk moths have hatched.
This matured material is tougher than nett silk cocoons and must be softened,
washed, and dried.

5 The cocoons are passed through steel rollers with combs to produce
bundles of long, straight fibers of silk called combed top or peign.

6 Several bundles are grouped together to form a band that is also combed
into a narrower band and fed through rotating rollers. The emerging yarn is
slightly twisted and is called the roving.

7 The roving is spun to form a single thread, and several single threads are
wound together, twisted, and fed onto a bobbin or cone.

Cotton thread
8 Cleaned, combed, and sorted cotton is fed through a series of rollers in a
process called drawing that generates a narrow band of cotton fiber.

9 The fiber is slightly twisted to form roving, and the roving is drawn and
twisted again.

10 It is spun to form a single thread that is wound and twisted with others to
form the thread.

11 Cotton thread is singed over an open flame and mercerized by immersion

in caustic soda. These processes strengthen the thread and give it a lustrous
finish. The treated cotton thread is wound on bobbins or cones.
Spun polyester thread
12 The chips of polyester received from the refinery are spun into long
filaments that are banded together to form polyester tow. Tow contains more
than 170,000 continuous, fine, parallel filaments in a long band.

13 The tow is stretched to the breaking point so that weaknesses in the

filaments are exposed. The weak points are cut out, and fibers that are 2.5-
4.75 in (60-120 mm) are produced.

14 These resulting strong fibers are banded together again in parallel, and
several bands are combined until a narrow, even, high-quality band of parallel
fibers results.

15 These bands are further stretched and slightly twisted into roving, and the
roving is spun and twisted into single thread. The drawing and twisting
process stretches the fibers up to 10-20 times their length in the tow stage,
and the spindles on the spinning machines that do this work turn at 12,000
revolutions per minute.

Dyeing and packaging finished

thread
All types of thread may be finished in similar ways.

16 After manufacture, the thread is dyed. Dye is mixed in large vats; several
hundred colors can be produced, and dye mixing is controlled by computer.
Large cones or bobbins of manufactured thread are lowered into pressurized
vessels, and the dye (and other additives) are released into the vessels by
computer. After it is removed from the dyeing vessel, the thread is dried for 24
hours. About 6.6 tons (6 metric tons) of thread can be dyed in one day; this
equals 66 million yd (200 million m) of sewing thread or enough to circle the
equator five times.

17 The dyed thread is wound on smaller spools for industrial or home use,
and the spools are packed into boxes for shipment. Optical devices monitor
the spool winding and packing processes.

Quality Control
Thread must emerge from the factory with a great combination of performance
characteristics. During its lifetime, thread will be passed through a number of metal
guides on a sewing machine, held in tension by the sewing machine needle and
subjected to its action, bent into position from the bobbin to interlock with the thread
from the needle, stretched and abraded when the garment is worn, and laundered or
dry cleaned many times. Thread functions not only to clothe but to protect us. We
count on the thread in products like shoes and automobile safety belts to protect us
throughout the life of the product.

Product manufacturers place considerable demand on thread makers to improve the

quality of thread and to adapt to demands of the workplace. For example, a
lubricating finish is applied to thread that is used to stitch thermoplastic materials so
the sewing machine needle is constantly lubricated to prevent its frictional heat from
rising and fusing the material.

Production of almost all types of threads is fully automated. A device called an

Autoconer monitors the thread quality, cuts out imperfections, and rejoins the ends to
produce an even thread without knots, joins, or weak areas.

Byproducts/Waste
Cotton thread production results in more waste than the manufacture of other types
of thread because of the parts of the cotton that cannot be used. The volume is still
relatively minor but must be disposed. Imperfect fibers and fiber dust are generated
Various types of sewing thread which are vastly used in garments manufacturing has
mentioned in the below:
1. Linen thread,
2. Silk thread,
3. Soft cotton thread,
4. Mercerized cotton thread,
5. Glaced cotton thread,
6. Viscose thread,
7. Polyester thread,
8. Nylon thread,
9. Aramide thread,
10. PEFE thread.
All the above sewing thread has discussed in the following:
1. Linen thread:
Oldest sewing thread and was used at a wide range for sewing threads during making of
garments. This type of sewing thread has high strength and slightly can make more strength
of seam. Linen sewing thread was used at a large rate to sew canvas, course fabric and so on.
But now it is mostly replaced by synthetic threads.
2. Silk thread:
This type of sewing thread is made from both continuous filament and broken filament silk.
Comparatively it contains higher strength, extensive, lustrous and good qualities.
Silk sewing thread is most expensive, that is why using of it is comparatively less. It is used to
sew expensive garments.
3. Soft cotton thread:
Bleaching and dyeing have done in this type of sewing thread and sometimes lubricants are
used to make it more frictional resistant. There is a possibility of occurring shrinkage and seam
puckering after wetting in water and washing the garments respectively.
4. Mercerized cotton thread:
This type of thread is finished by caustic soda solution with tension. As a result, the entire fibres
in the threads become round in shape and gain higher strength and brightness.

5. Glaced cotton thread:

Glaced cotton sewing thread is made by using surface coating on the soft cotton threads. As a
result, the threads become stiff, smooth and increase the frictional resistance.
6. Viscose thread:
It may be made from continuous filament or staple fibres. The strength and stability are
comparatively less but more brighten. It has a limited use as a sewing thread but widely used
in embroidery work.
7. Polyester thread:
These types of sewing thread are strong, low cost, good washing fastness and satisfactory
elastic properties. It can be washed up to 150C without any shrinkage. It is widely used due to
low cost. At present, polyester thread is widely used in the garments among the synthetic fibres
sewing thread.
8. Nylon thread:
Nylon sewing thread made from hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid. It has not a wide used
due to high extensibility because it makes seam puckering after sewing due to shrinkage. These
types of thread are used to sew knitted fabric, extensible seam and swimming wear.
9. Aramide thread:
Aramide threads are not used as a large rate because of more expensive. Aramide threads are
used in special cases i.e. fire fighting garments. It is costly. Its commercial name is Nomex.
10. PEFE thread:
The using of PEFE sewing thread is limited due to the higher cost. It is used for protecting
against flame, melt and chemical garments.
PRICES OF THREADS

APPROXIMATE
PRICE SUIT
PRODUCT METRES DENIER YARN
PER COP FO
COMPARISON

FLOSS SILK - HIGH GLOSS (NETT)

Tanne 80 - DMC Retors 80 Helen M Steve

FLOSS SILK
150 1.80 Egyptian 100 - Brok 140 Embr
View Colours 90 Pipers 210/2 Spun Silk
80 1.10 Bucks Po
Buy Online Pipers 6/20 Twisted Silk
Fly-t
FLOSS SILK PACKS: consisting of 10 x 80m cops of Floss Silk
9.90 per pack
BRIGHTS
Tangerine/Bt Emerald/Kelly Green/Neon Blue/Bt Turquoise/Moss/Azalea/Marigold/Bt Yellow/White
more info or buy online >
NATURE
Mahogany/Autumn Gold/Fawn/Bronze Gold/Deep Jasmine/Saffron Gold/Burnt Copper/Brick/Soft Beige/Pale Mushroom
more info or buy online >
 HEATHER
Pansy/Viola/Iris/Med Crocus/Lilac/Deep Purple/Lt Purple/Dk Magenta/Orchid Pink/Bt Heather Pink
more info or buy online >
MISTY
Honeybird/Cote d'emerald/Pistachio/Turquoise Grn/Dk Tartan/Forest Green/Pastel Green/Pea/Mint/Slate Green
more info or buy online >
AUTUMN
Dk Terracotta/New Gold/Brass/Lt Mustard/Ecru/Deep Cream/New Blush/Lt Henna/Orange/Dk Salmon
more info or buy online >
OCEAN BLUES
Madder/Dk Saxe/Neon Blue/Bt Ocean/Deep Aqua/Deep Ocean/Lt Sky/Aqua/Alice Blue/Silver Blue
more info or buy online >
PLUSH PINK
Peach Pink/China Rose/New Pink/New Red/Strawberry/Bt Strawberry/Deep Strawberry/GM Red/Peony/Dk Peony
more info or buy online >
SUMMER BLUES
Flax/Delft/Med Blue/Dk Royal/Hyacinth/Lt Helio/Mid Navy/Royal/Bluebell/Pale Blue
more info or buy online >
SUMMER FRUITS
Bright Fuschia/Deep Fuschia/Dk Petunia/Magenta/Candyfloss/Lt Azalea/Azalea/Dk Cerise/Dk Wine/Pale Hibiscus
more info or buy online >
GORGEOUS GREENS
Bt Tartan/Kelly Green/New Green/Grass/Bt Emerald/Lime Yellow/Dk Leaf/Leaf/Pale Leaf/Pale Sycamore
more info or buy online >
FLOSS SILK STARTER PACK consisting of 20 x 80m cops of Floss Silk various sh
19.80 per pack
more info or buy online
FLOSS SILKS 'FOLDED'
(Folded=threads lightly twisted together by machine)
see colours

2fold 100m 3.30 180 Tanne 50

3fold 3.85 270 Near Tanne 30 (was Pipers 300/4)
4fold 100m 2.85 360 Near Tanne 30
5fold 50m 3.30 450 Cordonnet 40/50
6fold 50m 3.65 540 Cordonnet Special 50
7fold 50m 3.90 630 Coats Crochet 20
50m

PRICE APPROXIMATE
PRODUCT METRES PER DENIER YARN
COP COMPARISON

FINE TWISTED SILK

2/20
Thinner than Brok 180
TWISTED SILK 125 1.05 30
or Egyptian 140 Min
Buy Online

4/20
Egyptian 120 or Brok 160
TWISTED SILK 100 1.10 60 Min
Slightly thinner than Tanne 80
Buy Online

6/20 DMC Retors 80 - Tanne 80

Fin
TWISTED SILK Egyptian 100
125 2.15 90 B
Pale Cream 100 Pipers 210/2 Spun Silk
& White only Pipers Silk Floss - Brok 140
Buy Online
 PRICE APPROXIMATE
PRODUCT METRES PER DENIER YARN
COP COMPARISON
TWISTED GLOSS SILK
Retors DMC 50/60 - Tanne 50 B
90/2
Brilliante 60/50 - Brok 80/2 Fine
TWISTED GLOSS SILK 75 2.00 180
Madeira 50 -
Buy online
Crochet Cotton 80
Mettler 60/2
Tanne 30 - Brok 36/2
90/3
Pipers 80/3 Spun Silk Lace G
TWISTED GLOSS SILK 50 2.05 300
Pipers 100/3 Spun Silk
Buy online
Gutermann 100/3 Spun Silk

PRICE APPROXIMATE
PRODUCT METRES PER DENIER YARN
COP COMPARISON
SPUN SILK
Retors DMC 80 - Tanne 80
210/2
Egyptian 100 - Brok 140
SPUN SILK 200 1.95 90
Pipers Silk Floss
Buy online
Pipers 6/20 Twisted Silk
140/2 Retors DMC 50/60 - Brok 80/2
SPUN SILK Brilliante 60/50 - Madeira 50
200 1.95 130
Buy online Tanne 50 - Crochet Cotton 80
Mettler 60/2
130/3
SPUN SILK Between Tanne 30
130 2.15 210
WHITE, BLACK and Tanne 50
& ECRU ONLY
Buy online

100/3
Cordonnet 100 - 3fold Floss Silk
SPUN SILK
100 2.15 270 Brok 36/2 - Fil-a-dentelles 80
WHITE, BLACK
Gutermann S303
& ECRU ONLY
Buy online

80/3
SPUN SILK
WHITE, BLACK & ECRU
Tanne 30 - Retors/Brilliante 30
Buy online S
Fil-a-dentelles 70 - Madeira 30
75 2.05
Swedish Linen 100 - Linen 40/2
330
DMC Cordonnet 70
80/3 75 2.55
Gutermann S303
SPUN SILK
Pipers 90/3 Gloss Silk
COLOURS
Buy online

PRICE APPROXIMATE
PRODUCT METRES PER DENIER YARN
COP COMPARISON
TWISTED GLOSS SILK GIMP
80/3 50 3.00 330 See 80/3 Spun Silk compariso
FINE GIMP
WHITE/BLACK
Buy Online
50/2
FINE GIMP
50 3.00 360 See above - Tanne 30
WHITE
Buy Online
70/3
FINE GIMP
50 3.00 390 See above - Tanne 30
LIMITED COLOURS
Buy Online
60/3
MEDIUM GIMP Between Tanne 30
35 3.00 450
LIMITED COLOURS & Cotton Perle 12
Buy Online
480
MEDIUM GIMP Between Tanne 30
35 3.00 480
LIMITED COLOURS & Cotton Perle 12
Buy Online
34/2
MEDIUM GIMP Cotton Perle 12 - Brok 24/3
35 3.00 540
WHITE/BLACK & COLOURS Cordonnet Special 50
Buy Online
50/3
MEDIUM GIMP
35 3.00 560 See above comparisons
WHITE/BLACK & LIMITED COLOURS
Buy Online
43/3
MEDIUM/THICK GIMP Broder 16/18 -
25 3.00 620
IVORY ONLY Coats Crochet 40
Buy Online
40/3
THICK GIMP
25 3.00 680 See above comparisons
WHITE/BLACK & COLOURS
Buy Online
30/3
THICK GIMP Cotton Perle 8/12 -
25 3.00 900
WHITE/BLACK/ECRU & COLOURS Madeira 12
Buy Online
90/9
THICK GIMP
25 3.00 900 See above comparisons
COLOURS
Buy Online
15/2
VERY THICK GIMP Tootal Crochet -
25 4.00 1,200
WHITE ONLY Madeira Dcor
Buy Online
HEATHER MIXTURE GIMPS
25 4.00 600/800 See above comparisons
Buy Online