THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

DESIGNERS WHO CREATE WITH A CONSCIENCE | 100 ACTS OF SEWING

HOW TO UPCYCLE ANYTHING | LACE COLLAGE | NATURAL DYES
BIOCOUTURE | CHIC FLORAL FASHION AND MORE

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013
VOGUEPATTERNS.COM
Contents
Vogue Patterns Magazine
August/September 2013

52
FEATURES

52 58 78
ON THE COVER Creating With a One Hundred Acts Urban Blossoms
Sunos creative director, Conscience of Sewing Feminine cuts and
Erin Beatty, with model By investing in the idea Fiber artist Sonya Philip showstopping oral prints
Mari Agory, both wear- of community, four new takes her longing for in new styles from the
CHRISTELLE DE CASTRO

ing dresses from Sunos designers prove fashion a fashion uniform, a Vogue Patterns and
fall 2013 collection. Hair can be both sustainable simple dress design, and a Butterick collections.
and makeup by Joseph and successful. traditional skill and turns
Boggess. Above: Beatty by Sandy Black them into a big statement
and Suno founder Max meant to inspire.
Osterweis. by Daryl Brower

2 VOGUE PATTERNS
DEPARTMENTS
COUTURE CORNER
Editors Note 5
Conversations
Letters | Contributors 7 in Lace 42
What Are You Sewing? 8 Collaging creates dimen-
sion and texture for a
Must-Haves 10
one-of-a-kind garment.
Destinations | TACtile Arts by Samantha Sleeper
Center 13
by Jean Hartig FASHION HISTORY

SEW BIZ The Wearing of the

Green 46
Noon Design Studio 14 A killer hue with a
by Jean Hartig checkered past.
by Daryl Brower
Filly Designs 18
A passion for creating
BEYOND THE BOBBIN
rooted in nature,
function, and friendship.
Nicole Dextrass
by Jean Hartig
Garden Couture 62
TIPS & TOOLS Fashionable Fabrics

Wear, Care, and

Grown From
Bacteria 64
14
Repair 22 by Gillian Conahan
Tips for giving your old
clothes new life. STYLE STRATEGY
by Alison Gwilt
Fabric Matching 68
The Thrifty Art 26
Draw inspriration from a
FREE PROJECTS
centuries-old skill to save
tattered garments.
Making Do 70
by Gillian Conahan
Transforming midcentury
thrift into modern style.
MASTER INSTRUCTION
Frida Fashion 74
Corset Building 30 Using embroidered insets
Part II: Cutting and tting to enliven a basic top.
the mock-up.
by Linda Sparks THREAD TALES
Heritage Lace 34
Buttercups Journey 96
A reimagined vintage
by Kathalyn Wilson
tablecloth meets a dye
with a 2,500-year history
to produce a sunny
summer jacket.
by Kathryn Brenne

70
TK
68
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 3
 Make your
mark in Vintage
Vogue
Reclaim the glamour of a
bygone era in our Vintage
Vogue designs, a collection
of over thirty-ve dress
and accessory styles that
can take you from the
DRESS : BROCADE , MOOD DESIGNER FABRICS INC . RIBBON : MOKUBA NEW YORK

sleek bias-cut looks of

the thirties to the wide-
shouldered frocks of the
forties into the full crino-
line skirts of the fties.
Shop online now and sew
up your reimagined look.

voguepatterns.mccall.com/vintagevogue

V8874

VINTAGE VOGUE
 EDITORS NOTE

In Good Company
A
t various points in my life Ive heard Suno, now works with artisans in Africa and
people wish aloud for the fashion uni- India to produce a clothing line that has been
form: A former supervisor wanted a garnering attention from celebrities and win-
closet full of A-line skirts made up in different ning awards.
colors. A friend aims to make shirtdresses in Jane Palmer, founder of Noon Design Studio,
a variety of seasonal fabrics. Around here, we has always embraced the marriage of nature and
often talk about whittling down our closets to invention and uses exclusively natural ingredi-
the essentials, including only those handmade ents such as flowers, roots, bio-waste, and even
high-quality garments meant to last. beetle shells in her California studio, where she
For some, this reflects a desire to cope with works with five fellow artisans to custom dye
a hectic lifestylewe want to look fashionable garments (page 14).
without having to spend too much time think- In addition to the profiles, weve included
ing about it each morning. Otherswho are plenty of how-to instruction and expert advice:
fed up with retail options and empowered with Fashion designer Samantha Sleeper walks us
the self-sufficiency provided by knowing how step by step through her lace collaging tech-
to sewseek a wardrobe with a custom fit and nique (page 42), contributing editor Kathryn
individualized style. And then there are those Brenne transforms an antique tablecloth into
for whom its also a matter of sustainability, a sunny summer jacket with turmeric (page
which brings me to this issues theme. 34), and weve upcycled a mens suit jacket into
The professionals featured within these fashionable shorts (page 70). In Frida Fashion
pages represent a socially proactive portion of (page 74) we revitalize an ordinary ready-to-
our communityartisans and designers who wear shirt with emboidered panels from a vin-
respect the entire process of garment construc- tage dress.
tion so much that theyve set up their own I hope these pages inspire you to make, alter,
companies based on an eco-minded, ethical and mend with creative, eco-friendly results
approach. They all embrace the slow movement, and provide you with the good company of those
each in an individual, innovative style. Take who also take pride in responsibly creating from
cover subject Erin Beatty and her partner Max scratch.
Osterweis (page 52), for example. Wanting to do
something positive to support Kenyas economy,
raise its profile, and foster the rich talents of
its people, Osterweis decided to use his exten- Suzanne Pettypiece, editor
sive vintage collection of bold kanga fabrics to
manufacture clothing in Africa. Their company,

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 5
TIPS & TOOLS

26 VOGUE PATTERNS
 The Thrifty Art
Draw Inspiration From a Centuries-Old Skill to Save Tattered
Garments and Even Decorate New Ones
BY GILLIAN CONAHAN

In the age of fast fashion, its easy to forget that threads are solidly attached. At each turn of the
fabric was once precious and expensive. But back-and-forth thread, a tiny loop is left slack to
mending used to be a vital everyday task, and prevent any shrinkage from puckering the fabric.
darningthe art of reweaving torn or threadbare When executed in matching threadpur-
fabrics with a needle and threadwas an impor- chased specially or unraveled from an inconspicu-
tant part of working-class girls education from ous area of the garmentdarned areas would all
the seventeenth through the nineteenth century. but disappear into the fabric. Samplers such as
After developing their skills with embroidery this one, though, were executed in bright colors
techniques, students embarked on meticulous to show off the makers handiwork. Many incor-
darning samplers like the one shown here, which porated elaborate weave patterns and embroidery
originated in the Netherlands around the early for decorative effect.
twentieth century, in order to prove their skills. Toward the end of the nineteenth century,
Thrse de Dillmonts Encyclopedia of cheaper clothes began to edge darning out of its
Needlework, first printed in 1884, devotes an everyday role. During the World War II years,
entire chapter to mending techniques, including government-issued booklets instructed consum-
four major types of darning. The most basic form, ers in basic repair techniques to make scarce fab-
which de Dillmont calls linen darning, replaces ric resources last as long as possible. Since then
a plain-woven fabric, and is demonstrated in the darning has been on the wane. Most people sim-
right column of the sampler on the facing page ply discard their clothes when they start to show
(shown from the wrong side). Twill darning, also their age, and many modern fabrics are too fine
known as satin or cashmere darning, is shown to be rewoven by hand. But for those who rel-
in the center column. Here, each thread passes ish an heirloom and invest in vintage garments,
over and under two threads at a time, creating a mending can be worth the effort. Swiss darn-
diagonal pattern in the weave. Other techniques ing is still used to repair handmade socks and
include damask darning, which replicates more sweaters. Specialty-denim repair shops will use a
intricately woven fabrics, and fine drawing, in machine-sewn version of darning to restore your
which a needle is threaded with a single hair to designer jeans. Several modern textile artists,
stitch threads together as invisibly as possible. including Australian artist Liz Williamson, have
For each darn, the threads are anchored in the even found artistic merit in the technique, using
fabric to each side of the opening, passing over darning motifs in jacquard woven textiles or
and under the existing threads. Viewed from creating hand-darned tapestries. You too can use
TIP the right side, as shown on the following page, the techniques shown here to embellish a blouse
The more coarsely woven the majority of these woven-in threads are hid- or dress with a decoratively darned patchor
your modern fabric, the den behind the original weave. Where the hole who knows, maybe the next time the elbows wear
easier it will be to darn. to be darned is irregular, as shown in the third thin on your handmade tweed jacket, youll be
Look for thick bers and column of the sampler, the anchoring threads inspired to borrow a trick from your ancestors to
a loose weave for your echo the shape of the hole to ensure that all the make it as good as new. 
rst try.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 27
MASTER INSTRUCTION

34 VOGUE PATTERNS
 MASTER INSTRUCTION

Heritage Lace
A Reimagined Vintage Tablecloth Meets a Dye With a 2,500-Year
History to Produce a Sunny Summer Jacket
BY KATHRYN BRENNE

Chances are you have admired your fair share of derful, it didnt yield the brightness I wanted.
hand-embroidered tablecloths at flea markets or Turmeric, however, produced the vibrancy I was
online and most likely have a few tucked away looking for.
in the closet. Trouble is, there are only so many
tables to dress: Todays busy lifestyle just doesnt DYEING
allow for much formal entertaining. Luckily all The natural dyeing process is like a science
SUPPLIES
it takes to turn an unused treasure into a sunny, experiment. While its much easier to use
Vogue Patterns 8830,
summery jacket is turmeric from the spice synthetic dyes, the earthy hues derived from
or a jacket pattern
drawer, some drafting skills, and French seams. plant, tree, insect, nut, and fruit sources are
with minimal seam
Heres how. unmatched. Outlined below is the process I used
detail
to achieve the color shown on the opposite page.
Vintage cotton or SELECTING YOUR MATERIALS If you plan to do your own testing, know that
linen tablecloth, with Look for an unstained (or minimally stained) the fabric pulls the dye from the water, so new
matching napkins medium-weight cloth with attractive lace detail- baths have to be made for each swatch of mus-
if available, about 2
ing that can become the focus of the garments lin until you get a color close to what you want.
yards (1.8 m) long
design. (Matching napkins are helpful for test- Carefully record dye and water quantities, tim-
3/4 yard (0.7 m) of ing dye colors.) Check for broken threads in the ing, and results, so that you can remember what
silk dupioni or similar lace and make sure any damaged areas will not youve tried and replicate the best versions later.
fabric for the neck interfere with your intended pattern layout. Once youve achieved your desired color with
and front bands I used a smooth, textured beige silk dupioni the muslin, test-dye a table napkin to check the
3/4 yard (0.7 m) for the neck and front bands. (Satin or taffeta color in your actual fabric and refine the proce-
of fusible tricot could also work, if you want a more glamorous dure before dyeing the tablecloth.
interfacing look.) The contrasting color prevented me from 1. Weigh the dry fabric using a kitchen scale
having to worry about dyeing the fabric or try- to determine how much dye you will need. My
Stainless steel pot
with 5 gallon (20 L)
ing to find an existing, exact match. Fusing tablecloth weighed 2 lb. (900 g)depending
capacity or larger tricot interfacing to the dupioni kept the seam on the size of your tablecloth, you may need to
allowances from showing through and added adjust the quantities below. 2. Choose a scour-
Turmeric a bit more body to the silk, preventing it from ing agent suitable for the fiber content of your
White vinegar stretching around the curved neckline. fabric to remove any wax, residual soaps, and
Scouring agent such
Getting the sunny yellow color took a lot of oils and ensure that the dye absorbs evenly. I
as Synthrapol and experimenting. Marigold, goldenrod, weld, and used 4 tsp. Synthrapol and 16 tsp. soda ash in
soda ash a liquid osage-orange extract all produced pale a 5 gal. (20 L) stainless steel stockpot. Fill the
colors. While curry made the house smell won- pot with enough water to cover the cloth and

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013 35
52 VOGUE PATTERNS
BEATTY AND OSTERWEIS ' S PORTRAIT : CHRISTELLE DE CASTRO
Alabama Chanin now pays a living wage to eleven workers and
thirty locally based independent contractors who use domes-
tic, organic, custom-dyed jersey to create a timeless series of
hand-sewn clothes, accessories, and housewares, reminiscent
of the ethos of nineteenth-century textile artist William Morris
and the homespun work of early American settlers.

collection features the concept of modern ning a business is expensive, so are the clothes
armor for a contemporary Joan of Arc, using (prices range from $1,200 for an embroidered
protective, quilted fabrics and crystal-studded poncho to $2,000 to $5,000 for jackets and
neoprene dresses contrasted with graphic and coats). To make her designs accessible to more
floral engineered prints of plaids, medieval people and to promote the methods employed
brocades, and stripes. in making them, Chanin shares the patterns
Footwear collaborations, such as the one and techniques used by her company through a
with British designer Nicholas Kirkwood, have series of DIY books. She even sells her signature
also become a signature of Suno. The company's organic cotton jersey, dyed in muted shades,
range of colorfully patterned fabric sneakers which is otherwise hard to find. We want to
with recycled rubber soles are made in Kenya find connections at all levels: with our indi-
with a percentage of sales supporting a Kenyan vidual customers, our suppliers, other designers,
wildlife charity. Hopefully we are inspiring manufacturers, etcetera. Open sourcing is an
larger retailers to reveal where they are produc- important part of creating those relationships.
ing and how, says Beatty, and to think about Sharing ideas connects and elevates us all.
producing in better, more ethical ways.
GOODS OF CONSCIENCE, EST. 2005
ALABAMA CHANIN, EST. 2006 BRONX, NEW YORK
FLORENCE, ALABAMA Fifty-year-old Father Andrew More OConnor,
Alabama Chanin, founded by fifty-year-old parish priest, visual artist, and fashion designer,
Natalie Chanin, exemplifies the slow-fashion seeks to make clothes that look good, feel good,
movement. A former costume designer and and do good, by bringing the social and mate-
fashion stylist, Chanin moved from New York rial benefits back to the producer communities.
City in 2000 back to her hometown of Florence, Originally inspired by a retreat to Guatemala
Alabamaformerly known as the T-shirt capi- in 2005, OConnor currently employs twenty
tal of the worldand has made it her mission backstrap weavers in the Guatemalan Maya
to support a community of quilters and seam- communities to produce his Social Fabric, a
stresses, many of whom previously worked in unique combination of strains of color-grown
local mills before they closed in the eighties. cotton, harvested from ancient heritage seed
Housed in a reclaimed textile factory, Alabama stocks preserved by the community, and light-
Chanin now pays a living wage to eleven workers reflective yarn woven in a signature abstract
and thirty locally based independent contrac- cross motif that appears in all of OConnors
tors who use domestic, organic, custom-dyed designs. This special cloth was originally devel-
jersey to create a timeless series of hand-sewn oped for ecclesiastical art projects, under the
clothes, accessories, and housewares, reminis- banner Sacred Art Heals (the philosophy and
cent of the ethos of nineteenth-century textile moniker under which OConnor still produces
artist William Morris and the homespun work his own artworks), and he has now adopted it
of early American settlers. Sustainable design for his soft, tailored menswear, womenswear,
has shaped our growth, our direction, our prod- and sportswear. Designed in conjunction with a
ucts, our materialsfrom the ground up, says pattern maker in New York City, his collections
Chanin. It plays a part in every plan that we have captured the attention of Anna Wintour, Natalie Chanin, shown
make for the futureit isnt so much what we who chose a pair of his cuffed checked shorts center right, and scenes
do as it is who we are. for June 2010 cover girl Cameron Diaz; the style from the Alabama Chanin
Because this labor-intensive approach to run- now retails for $225. studio.

54 VOGUE PATTERNS
 Urban Blossoms
Feminine Cuts and Showstopping Floral Prints In These New
Styles From the Vogue Patterns and Butterick Collections

78
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