Cerevisia: Hubert Verachtert, Guy Derdelinckx
Cerevisia: Hubert Verachtert, Guy Derdelinckx
Cerevisia: Hubert Verachtert, Guy Derdelinckx
Cerevisia
j o u r n a l h o m e p a g e : w w w . e l s e v i e r . c o m / l o c a t e / c e r e v i s i a and w w w . c e r e v i s i a . e u
Historical considerations micro-organisms present on air-dried grains could have started the
formation of acids during the long mashing-in times at low temper-
Whenever, especially since the appearance of cereals, suspen- atures rendering fresh beers slightly acid. Probably at weddings and
sions of sugar containing vegetal material in water are left exposed dancings the beers that were served in stoneware pots were very
to the air, humans discovered probably by accident that the tur- similar to our typical Belgian lambics. Recent investigations into the
bid liquids acquired interesting properties and became enjoyable history of lambic beers indicate that around 1500 the acidic beers
beverages. It is not surprising that such phenomenon was discov- corresponded more to the white beers type than to the lambic type.
ered independently throughout the world among various cultures. The divergence towards lambic types must have occured much
Archeological ndings in China, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Armenia etc. later. (www.lambik1801.be) whatsoever at the times of Bruegel
indicate that beer was already produced around 7,000 BC. Beer most beers were either slightly acid (young beer) or very sour (old
production was often associated with bread production and active beers).Around 1560 the following characteristics of acidic beers can
crumbles could be used to start the transformation process (now be mentioned.
called fermentation). Many raw materials were used: wheat, barley,
oat, rye, millet, buckwheat. The beers were often thick and milky
))) Fermentations were spontaneous or activated by adding
and reed straws were conveniently used for sipping-drinking the
batches of previous fermented wort
beverage from a common family bowl, as shown on a 6,000-year
))) Low attenuations and low alcohol content were reached
old Sumerian tablet. (gure 1) Later,drinking utensils evolved to
))) The beers were opaque
wooden cups, earthenware pots and nally to glasses.
))) Bacterial infections produced lactic acid during wort cooling
All fermentations must have been initiated with a mixture of
and mashing in and additionally acetic acid during storage
air-born and raw material derived yeasts and bacteria. When the
))) Infections came from the air, water, raw materials, equipment
beverage is not rapidly consumed acidication takes over. A rapid
and from inocula
consumption was needed. This means that the alcohol content
))) Raw materials were barley and wheat. Rye favoured vinegar
was low and it is not surprising that a daily consumption of liter
avours. Oat was often used.
amounts of the beverages in ancient Egyptian times is reported.
The beverage was already being recognized as safer and especially
more enjoyable than the available water. The re-utilization of un- In the 18th century the production of two well known Louvain
cleaned containers from previous brews was known to speed-up beers, the Peeterman and the Bire de Louvain increased to more
the fermentation process and around the 14th century a better than 33,000 tons, using non-kilned grains, long wort cooling times
fermentation was obtained by mixing a wort with foam from a and 12 hours of mashing-in at 25 C.During the rst 5 days of fer-
previous brew. In the 16th century mixtures of wheat and bar- mentation the casks were placed vertically, the attenuation was
ley seemed to give the best beers. Rye favored the formation of low and the alcohol content was of around 3% (ww/ww).The casks
beer vinegar. All things considered the souring of beer must have were then stored horizontally and ready for delivery and consump-
been very common for thousands of years and. . . the dead pharaos tion. Such fresh beers contained around 600 ppm acidity expressed
were promised bread that doesnt crumble and beer which doesnt turn as lactic acid. In older beers more than 4000 ppm was recorded
sour. Much later as shown on a painting by Bruegel in the 16th and also acetic acid appeared. (data from the Bulletin des Anciens
century the inn-keepers reassured their consumers that their beer Elves, 1895-1905,a publication of the alumni of the brewing school
was fresh, meaning not acid, by hanging a green wreath at the pubs of Louvain).Several guidelines (sometimes contradictory) were also
entrance. (gure 2) published on how to improve beer quality.
In the Belgian city of Halle in 1559 recordings prove that
beers produced with hops needed no green wreath, although ))) High attenuation leads to high alcohol levels killing the yeast
and favoring bacteria
))) High attenuated wort contains residual substrates wich can
E-mail address: els.verachtert@ees.kuleuven.be (H. Verachtert). only be used by non-yeasts infections
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cervis.2014.04.002
1373-7163/ 2014 The Associations of the Former Students of the Belgian Brewing Schools. Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
122 H. Verachtert, G. Derdelinckx / Cerevisia 38 (2014) 121128
Figure 3. When beer tasters showed a sad face reminding the mouth of griet sh
the panel judged that the beer was too acid.
Figure 1. Around 6000 years ago,drinking thick (acidifying) beers with straws.
Consequently: Two main acids are responsible for the acidication of beer:
acetic and lactic acid. Their discovery and their synthesis merit
))) Keep the attenuation low attention.
))) Turn to barley kilning or re-kilning to reduce the diastatic power Already in the middle of the 19th century it was shown that such
and increase the fermentables content of the wort acids were of biological origin. Although the acidication of beers
))) Use the turbid mash method was not really wanted, the acetification of many other foodstuffs
))) Use more non-malted grains was appreciated as it increased food shelf live.Concerning aceti-
))) Increase wort aeration to produce more yeast and reduce cation,Boerhaave in 1732 was the rst to nd the process to be of
nitrogenous compounds biological origin and not much later in 1790,Adet reported that the
molecule CH3-COOH was involved. Kutzing in 1837 associated the
In Table 1 are shown acidity values suggested for acidic beers process with the presence of minute organisms and Pasteur in 1886
of the rst half of the 20th century. These values were proposed named them Mycoderma aceti because pellicles were formed at the
by a brew master and are certainly too high to satisfy the present surface of acetifying liquids.Finally Beijerinck in 1899 introduced
day consumers preferences. Moreover the presence of acetic acid the name Acetobacter. Acetic acid results from the oxidation of
may have been overlooked. Acetic acid has a much sharper vinegar- ethanol in the presence of oxygen which is reduced to water. This
like acid taste and even today it may lead to consumers lack of is an oxydo-reduction. Such reactions generate energy, which in
appreciation. For lambics we suggest to avoid more than 1000 ppm living organisms is mainly stored as ATP. To refresh the brewers
acetic acid and more than 5000 ppm lactic acid. biochemical knowledge: electrons and protons generated in a rst
Throughout the Hageland region (close to Louvain) many acidic step from the oxidation of ethanol to acetic acid are transferred
beers were brewed in the cities of Hoegaarden, Diest,Aarschot and to oxygen in a process generating a proton gradient over the cell
Tienen. All involved a type of spontaneous fermentation in wooden membrane The proton gradient is a proton-motive force delivering
casks. Around the city of Tienen as part of local festivities, there energy that can be used to couple ADP to phosphate P forming ATP.
was a yearly folkloric celebration around acid beers, named the An ATP synthase has a remarkable proteinic structure (gure 4).
Figure 2. In the 16th century,a green wreath above the inns door indicated that its Figure 4. Synthesis of ATP through the energy from oxidation of ethanol to acetic
beer was fresh and not sour. acid in acetic acid bacteria.
H. Verachtert, G. Derdelinckx / Cerevisia 38 (2014) 121128 123
The main yeasts involved in lambic fermentation are Sac- The following representative parameters for a lambic fermen-
charomyces species and during the acicidication period mainly tation were followed in time for each brewery:
Brettanomyces.
Brettanomyces yeasts were discovered around 1903 in old
English stock beers. Their name originated from miswriting Brit- Micro-organisms: Enterobacteriaceae, actidione resistant yeasts
tanomyces to Brettanomyces by Claussen (Carlsberg Laboratories). (Brettanomyces), non actidione resistant yeasts (Saccharomyces),
In 1921 these yeasts were found in lambic by Kufferath and Van lactic acid bacteria.
Laer and named Br.Bruxellensis.In the 20th century early seven- Metabolites: attenuation, ethanol, lactic acid, acetic acid, pH, ethyl
ties we detected in lambic almost every known Brettanomyces acetate, ethyl lactate.
species. Brettanmyces produces many avor compounds which
altogether result in the typical lambic-gueuze avor. Especially In all fermentation conditions the general prole given in
ethyl phenol and ethyl guaiacol, iso-valeric and acetic acid, ethyl Figure 10 was recognized. Figure 11 shows the fermentation prole
acetate and 1,4,5,6 tetrahydropyridine must be mentioned. In the for wooden casks versus metal tanks
presence of lactic acid a Brettanomyces esterase produces large Excellent classic fermentation proles were also found for
amounts of ethyl lactate but reduces the levels of iso-amyl acetate. infusion brewing versus turbid mash and for brewing with new
Using their glucosidases glycosides are converted to avor active hops versus old hops. Although the turbid mash method was
aglycones. Most important, Brettanomyces can ferment higher most common in the 19th century young hops were also used
malto-oligosaccharides not fermented by Saccharomyces,which (G.Lacambre.Trait complet de la Fabrication des Bires) Examin-
allows these yeasts to grow in old lambic and be active in bot- ing different real scale fermentations a conclusion can be (1) lambic
tle refermentation. The Brettanomyces now recognized species are can be produced in metal tanks. (2) fresh hops are not detrimen-
given in Figure 9. tal in lambic brewing. (3) infusion brewing can be used. However
Figure 11. Proles of a lambic fermentation with old hops compared to fresh hops.
the skills of the brew master will always determine what is FRUIT FLAVORED LAMBICS AND GUEUZES
possible.
Another approach to broaden the lambic-gueuze market is the
introduction of fruit avours.The best known fruit beer is the
GUEUZES krieken-lambic traditionally made by pouring whole fresh fruits
(mainly selected cherries) into fermenting lambic casks selected
After about 1 year of cask fermentation sugars not fermentable by quality or age. Larger breweries may collect beer from several
by Saccharomyces remain present. Due to spontaneous fermen- casks into larger metal tanks where cherries are added and where a
tation several other microorganisms, lactic acid bacteria and refermentation starts with the cherry extracted sugars. The cherry
Brettanomyces yeasts,can ferment the remaining higher oligo- avoured lambic is used for the preparation of cherry avoured
saccharides, leading to high attenuated beers. Mixing young beer gueuze, a beer with a delicate balance between acidity, cherry
(with remaining substrates) with old beer (with new micro- avour and colour. Raspberries can also be added to casks but for
organisms) in an enclosed environment such as bottles, induces other tastes mainly many fruit beers are made by mixing lambic
the bottle refermentation and gives a sparkling beer: gueuze. with frozen fruit,fruit juices or syrups (and even aromas?) followed
New avours and more ethanol are formed although the gueuze by carbonatation and pasteurization. The use of syrups is in fact not
quality is mainly dependent on the qualities of the lambics. Some a surprising development as already in 1907 in the Le Petit Journal
small gueuze brewers (called gueuze-stekers) do not produce their du Brasseur mention is made that for a krieken-lambic around 20
own lambic wort. They buy infected wort from larger breweries and Kg of cherries per hectoliter are needed and also 1/3 litre of a good
then focus on their own cask fermentation of such wort and on the syrup. Several fruit beers are derived from non-lambic acidic beers
proper blending of their cask fermented lambics and on their own or even from any beer. Following the consumers trend towards
bottle refermentation conditions. Two situations can be considered more sweet drinks, most non-traditionally prepared fruits beers
(1) A gueuze steker X buys lambic wort from a brewery Y or Z, are considered too sweet by lager and ale consumerss but are inter-
(depending on availability) or (2) two gueuze-stekers X1 and X2 esting alternatives to classic lagers and ales. Their alcohol content
buy the same wort from either A or B. may generally be lower than in other Belgian (acidic) beers.
It was found that the cask micro-ora was more important for
the nal gueuze characteristics than the initial micro-ora of the
imported infected wort. FARO AND OTHER LAMBIC PRODUCTS.
Experiments have indicated that the bottle refermentation can
be accelerated by adding sugars and eventually even pure cul- Faro
ture yeasts such as Saccharomyces or Brettanomyces. In the latter Gueuze consumers appreciate acidic tastes but the degree of
approach the fermentation is not totally spontaneous. appreciation is a matter of individual tastes and it is not surprising
A step further is the omission of bottle refermentation. Good that the practice of sweetening sour tasting beverages came into
quality lambic mixed with an ale is then ltered and carbonatated use.
and pasteurized. Moreover some are sweetened. These so called Already in Bruegels period a sweetening of the acidifying beers
ltered gueuzes represent the major part of the gueuze market. seemed very common and until the 20th century inn-keepers added
H. Verachtert, G. Derdelinckx / Cerevisia 38 (2014) 121128 127
Figure 12. Fermentation vessels for the production of Flandres red-brown ales.
sugars to lambics. By using small casks being rapidly consumed a interesting complex light sour tastes. Although for classic white
loss of added sweetness by a refermentation was avoided. Never- beers a brew master Verlinden in 1944 suggested that white beers
theless the formation of some CO2 bubbles may have added feelings should contain around 2000 ppm of acid (as lactic acid),Belgian
of freshness. In later times the sweetening was already achieved classic white beers have low sourness and lactic acid bacteria are no
before the beer was delivered to the inns by the so called pr- more present (excepted in Germany for the Berliner Weisse bier).To
parateurs functioning as intermediates between the brewery and increase their sourness consumers may add a slice of lemon to the
the inn-keeper. Such prepared beers,eventually blends of strong glass.
and less strong lambics were called faro,a word possibly derived
from from far, a latin name for a type of wheat. The prparateurs MIXED FERMENTATION BEERS: RED-BROWN ACIDIC ALES OF
besides sweetening also started to offer clarication and colouring. FLANDRES
For sweetening candy sugar is common but in the past a cheaper
concentrated lambic wort syrup may have been an excellent choice. In the past most beers must have presented acidic tastes. This
Beers named faro are now produced by some lambic brewers,by is now avoided due to extensive technological, microbiological and
mixing an ale with old lambic. biochemical knowledge. Especially in Belgium however,the pro-
An old practice for diminishing too acid tastes is the adding to
the glass of little pieces of sugar and providing by the inn-keeper
stirrers-crushers (stoempers)to help in its dissolution.
Ale-lambic blends
Faro and ltered gueuzes are now derived from ale with added
lambic but such practice is not really new. Its origin comes from the
observation that the shelf-lives of some beers was increased by low-
ering their pH through mixing with the acidic lambic. Such a beer
was the Jack-opa very popular student beer around 1920,pro-
duced nearby Louvain. Similar ale-lambic blends were produced
in Aarschot and Diest. Such beers containing lambic may even be
refermented. When a lambic is used for refermentation of lambic-
ale blends it must be kept in mind that several yeasts and bacteria
are introduced in the bottle, eventully leading to defects such as
ropiness or elevated pressures by fermentation of higher oligosac-
charides.
White lambic
Some lambic beers are now marketed as Lambic White beer
(Witte lambic).It is a spontaneous fermented quite young lambic
produced in metal tanks from lambic wort with added specic
spices. After the main fermentation and short lagering the beer is l-
tered, carbonatated and pasteurized. A spontaneous fermentation
is (now and then) initiated as usual but later batches of ferment-
ing casks or tanks serve as starters.The difference with other white
beers thus concerns the involvement of a mixed culture in contrast
to pure cultures. Consequently these white lambics may present Figure 13. The mixed culture Rodenbach fermentation steps.
128 H. Verachtert, G. Derdelinckx / Cerevisia 38 (2014) 121128
Figure 14. The formation of lactic acid in a Rodenbach red ale fermentation. Figure 15. Prole of the microbial population in a Rodenbach fermentation.