FINAL - ZDHC - P05 - DWR Research - Nov2012 PDF

November 2012
Version 1.0
Durable Water and Soil repellent chemistry in the textile

industry – a research report
P05 Water Repellency Project
Version 1.0- P05 Project Team

Durable Water and Soil repellent chemistry in the textile industry – a research report
Contents
Executive Summary ................................................................................................................................... 4
List of key terms and definitions ............................................................................................................... 7
1. Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 9
1.1 Background....................................................................................................................................... 9
1.2 Purpose and scope ......................................................................................................................... 9
2. Research methodology ....................................................................................................................... 10
2.1 Outreach to organizations ............................................................................................................ 10
2.2 Online research.............................................................................................................................. 10
2.3 Evaluation of alternative DWR technologies and chemistries ................................................ 11
3. Overview of durable water repellent finishes ................................................................................... 12
4. Repellent chemistries for textile applications .................................................................................. 13
4.1 Long-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries ............................................................................. 13
4.1.1 Concerns of long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids ...................................................................... 13
4.1.2 Regulatory and industry initiatives on long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids........................... 15
4.2 Other repellent chemistries for textile applications ................................................................... 16
4.2.1 Short-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries ..................................................................... 16
4.2.3 Stearic acid-melamine repellent chemistries ..................................................................... 17
4.2.4 Silicone repellent chemistries ............................................................................................... 17
4.2.5 Dendrimer based repellent chemistries .............................................................................. 18
4.2.6 Nano-material based repellent chemistries ........................................................................ 18
5. Repellent finishing processes ............................................................................................................ 18
6. Performance attributes and requirements of treated textile fabrics ............................................. 19
6.1 Types of fabric performance attributes ....................................................................................... 19
6.2 Repellents performance requirements and test methods ....................................................... 20
6.2.1 Performance requirements ....................................................................................................... 20
6.2.2 Test Methods .............................................................................................................................. 21
6.3 Actual industry practices in assessing performance of DWR finishes .................................. 23
7. Health and environmental attributes of repellent chemistries ....................................................... 23
8. Commercially available alternative DWR technologies and chemistries for textile applications
.................................................................................................................................................................... 24
8.1 Short-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries ............................................................................ 24
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8.2 Non-fluorinated repellent chemistries ......................................................................................... 25

8.3 Repellent chemistries identified through internet searches .................................................... 25
9. Recommendations ............................................................................................................................... 25
9.1 Some practical steps for moving from long-chain to short-chain fluorinated DWR
chemistries ............................................................................................................................................ 26
9.2 Some practical steps for moving from short-chain to non-fluorinated DWR chemistries ... 28
10. Conclusion .......................................................................................................................................... 29
11. Appendices ......................................................................................................................................... 31
Appendix A: fabric types, end uses and performance requirements ........................................... 32
Appendix B: fabric performance attributes and their applicable test methods ........................... 37
Appendix C: human health and environmental hazard criteria ..................................................... 47
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Executive Summary
Durable water repellents (DWRs) are topical finishes applied to fabrics to provide
protection against water, oil and soil. DWR finishes add value to textile products. In
addition to providing protection against water, oil and soil, these finishes also extend the
life of products and keep them looking newer longer. DWR technology has historically
been achieved with textile finishes that contain a polymer to which long-chain
perfluoroalkyl groups have been attached. These long-chain fluorinated polymers often
contain residual raw materials and trace levels of long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids
(PFAAs) as impurities. The residual raw materials and the product themselves may
degrade in the environment to form long-chain PFAAs.
In 2011, the ZDHC brands made a commitment to set forth a timeline for the elimination
of DWR technologies which may contain or degrade into long-chain PFAAs such as
PFOA and PFOS. The ZDHC brands have collaborated with the Outdoor Industry
Association (OIA), the European Outdoor Group (EOG), and representatives from the
chemical industry to understand opportunities, challenges and limitations for eliminating
DWR technologies associated with long-chain PFAAs. The ZDHC brands reached out
to chemical manufacturers, industry associations, regulatory agencies and other
organizations for information on commercially available alternative short-chain and non-
fluorinated DWR technologies and chemistries. An online search for alternative DWR
technologies and chemistries for textile applications was also conducted. The ZDHC
brands developed a categorization table for the different types of fabrics and their
performance requirements and hazard criteria to evaluate the alternative DWRs.
Since the 1950’s, long-chain PFAAs as well as polymers and surfactants containing
long-chain perfluoroalkyl functionality that may degrade to form long-chain PFAAs have
been widely used in numerous industries and commercial applications. As a result of
the widespread uses, long-chain PFAAs including PFOA and PFOS have been detected
globally in the environment, wildlife and humans. PFOA and PFOS, the most widely
known and studied long-chain PFAAs, have been shown to be persistent in the
environment, have long elimination half-life in wildlife and humans, and have
toxicological properties of concern. Due to these properties, regulatory actions have
been put in place or are being considered in several countries to manage these
substances. There is also a shift within industries towards DWR chemistries containing
shorter perfluoroalkyl chains as well as non-fluorinated chemistries.
Short-chain fluorinated chemistries are promoted as having favorable health and

environmental properties. They are known to be less toxic and have low
bioaccumulative potential. They are, nonetheless, associated with substances that may
be of concern particularly in cases where their use can result in widespread dispersion
in aquatic environments. Short-chain fluorinated DWR finishes cannot break down in the
environment into PFOA and PFOS. Like fluorinated chemistries, non-fluorinated
chemistries are also associated with substances of concern. For example, stearic acid-
melamine chemistry releases formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen. Wastewater
4
from the residual bath of silicone finishes application processes is toxic to fish.
Additionally, evidence suggests that nano-based chemistries may have toxic properties
to both human health and the environment and may have greater risk than larger
particle.
Performance of DWR finishes is a complex property to evaluate since performance is

based on several fabric attributes. It is dependent on the end use of the textile product,
the fabric type, fabric breathability, finishes resistance to repeated home laundering, dry
cleaning and abrasion etc. In addition, there is not a clear correlation between the
myriad fabric attributes provided by DWR finishes. Some DWR finishes are better at
certain performance effects than others and there is the possibility that the level of
performance of one effect may be negatively affected by lack of other effects in certain
cases. In assessing the performance level of DWR finishes, test methods by AATCC,
ISO and ASTM are the most widely employed. There is currently no “industry standard”
performance level for DWR finishes on textile products. Performance levels and
practical methods for assessing performance are set by individual brands and retailers
based on their understanding of consumer demands for a garment during its use.
Hence there are significant variations in performance testing regimes and these testing
regimes often constitute brands’ intellectual property.
Online searches for short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries using scientific journals
yielded no results. Information about short-chain fluorinated chemistries was only
available through chemical manufacturers. There were a limited number of chemical
manufacturers who responded to the request for information on commercially available
alternative DWR technologies and chemistries. Information about commercially
available alternative DWR finishes containing short-chain fluorinated chemistries
received from the chemical producers contacted was predominantly DWR finishes
product brochures. These DWR finishes claim to offer comparable or superior
performance attributes associated with finishes containing long-chain fluorinated
chemistries. Very limited information was provided regarding performance levels,
methods used to evaluate the performance of these short-chain fluorinated chemistries.
With respect to potential health and environmental impacts, few hazard data was
provided by chemical manufacturers for the DWR finishes containing short-chain
chemistries. Some short-chain fluorinated chemistries claim they do not break down in
the environment into PFOA and PFOS. Others claim to be PFOA- and/or PFOS-free,
explaining that these chemicals may be present as impurities but below their levels of
detection.
Information on commercially available non-fluorinated chemistries made available by

chemical manufacturers included the acrylic- and urethane-based, as well as other
conventional chemistries such as paraffin, silicone and stearic acid-melamine. These
commercially available non-fluorinated chemistries only claim to provide water
repellency. No non-fluorinated chemistry is marketed as a stain release finish. Similar to
the short-chain fluorinated chemistries, there was limited information provided on the
performance of these non-fluorinated chemistries.
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Moving from long chain to short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries is a complex

process that requires in-depth research in order to realize opportunities that exist and to
make an informed decision about when a move to short-chain fluorinated DWR
chemistries can occur. Future research projects on this subject should consider, among
other practical steps for moving from long-chain fluorinated chemistries, the overall risk
and socio-economic impact associated with short-chain fluorinated chemistries
The move from fluorinated to non-fluorinated DWR chemistries is much more

challenging and one that also require in-depth research to realize the practical
application of non-fluorinated DWR finishes on textile products. Research and
development efforts are also needed to make certain that non-fluorinated chemistries
can provide the desired fabric attributes as well as meet their defined performance
requirements. Presently, commercially available non-fluorinated chemistries do not
provide oil repellent and stain release attributes on fabrics. These attributes, in addition
to several others, are demanded for certain product groups by their end users.
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List of key terms and definitions
C4 – a technology or chemistry based on perfluoroalkyl chains with four fluorinated

carbons (e.g., C4F9-).
C6 – a technology or chemistry based on perfluoroalkyl chains with six fluorinated

carbons (e.g., C6F13-).
C8 – technology or chemistry based on perfluoroalkyl chains with eight or more

fluorinated carbons (e.g., C8F17-).
Durable water repellent (DWR) – a textile finish whose performance attributes (effects)
may include water repellency, oil repellency, stain repellency, soil repellency, stain
release, soil release, and durability (e.g. to laundering, dry cleaning, abrasion, light
exposure, rain, etc.)
Fluorinated polymer – a general term used to describe a polymer which has a

hydrocarbon backbone (polyamide, polyester, polyurethane, etc.) to which is appended
a fluorinated carbon chain, also known as a fluorinated alkyl chain or fluoroalkyl chain.
Fluorocarbon – an organic compound that contains fluorine.
Fluorochemical – a general term used to describe broadly all chemicals containing the
element fluorine, used synonymously with fluorinated chemical.
Fluoropolymer – a fluorinated polymer made by (co) polymerization of monomers that

contain fluorine to create a polymer with fluorine directly bound to carbons of the
polymer backbone.
Homologues – one of a series of compounds, each of which has a structure differing

regularly by some increment (number of carbons) from adjacent members of the group.
Long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids – PFCAs with perfluoroalkyl chains lengths C8 and

higher, including PFOA; PFSA with carbon chain lengths C6 and higher, including
PFHxS and PFOS. (Long-chain as defined by OECD (http://www.oecd.org/ehs/pfc/)
Perfluorinated chemicals – chemicals in which all carbon-hydrogen bonds in a chain

have been replaced by carbon-fluorine bonds. Examples include PFOA and
perfluorooctane sulfonate PFOS.
Perfluoroalkyl/perfluorinated chain – a chain of carbon atoms where all hydrogen has

been replaced with fluorine (e.g., CnF2+1- where n >1).
Perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs) – describes the family of chemicals including PFOS and
PFOA. These are perfluorinated compounds in which all hydrogen atoms on the carbon
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chain have been replaced with fluorine atoms and which have a functional acid group at
the terminus of the perfluoroalkyl chain.
Perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acid (PFCA) – a generic term used to describe any

perfluorinated carbon chain length carboxylic acid, including higher and lower
homologues as well as PFOA.
Perfluoroalkyl sulfonate (PFSA) – a generic term used to describe any fully

fluorinated carbon chain length sulfonic acid, including higher and lower homologues as
well as PFOS.
Perfluorobutane sulfonic acid (PFBS, C4F9SO3H or CF3CF2CF2CF2SO3H) – a

chemical containing a four carbon perfluoroalkyl chain attached to a sulfonic acid
functional group.
Perfluorocarbon – a chemical substance that is comprised of only carbon and fluorine.
Perfluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA, C5F11CO2H) – a chemical containing a five carbon

perfluoroalkyl chain attached to a carboxylic acid functional group.
Perfluorohexane sulfonate (PFHxS, C6F13SO3H) – a chemical containing a six carbon

perfluoroalkyl chain attached to a sulfonic acid functional group.
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA, C7F15CO2H) – a chemical containing a seven carbon

perfluoroalkyl chain attached to a carboxylic acid functional group.
Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS, C8F17SO3H) – a chemical containing an eight

seven carbon perfluoroalkyl chain attached to a sulfonic acid functional group.
Precursor – a chemical that can be transformed to produce another chemical.
Short-chain perfluoroalkyl acids – PFCAs with carbon chain lengths C7 and lower,
including PFHxA and PFSAs with carbon chain lengths C5 and lower, including PFBS.
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1. Introduction
1.1 Background
Durable water repellent (DWR) technology has historically been achieved with textile
finishes that contain a polymer to which long-chain perfluoroalkyl groups have been
attached or non-fluorinated finishes. Long-chain fluorinated polymers often contain
residual raw materials and trace levels of long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs) as
impurities. The residual raw materials and the product themselves may degrade in the
environment to form long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids.
In 2011, the ZDHC brands made a commitment to set forth a timeline for the elimination
of DWR technologies which may contain or degrade into long-chain PFAAs such as
perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS). The ZDHC
brands has collaborated with the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA), the European
Outdoor Group (EOG), and representatives from the chemical industry to understand
the opportunities, challenges and limitations for eliminating DWR technologies
associated with long-chain PFAAs.
1.2 Purpose and scope
The purpose of this report is to compile and summarize information about commercially
available alternative DWR technologies and chemistries and describe the steps involved
in moving from long-chain to short-chain and non-fluorinated technologies and
chemistries. The primary focus of the report is on DWR technologies and chemistries
with short-chain fluorinated chemistries for textile applications. This report characterizes
the various types of repellent chemistries (both fluorinated and non-fluorinated), their
performance attributes and limitations, and their related human health and
environmental properties. It briefly describes repellent finishing processes, textile fabric
performance attributes and how performance is evaluated.
This report also presents information from chemical producers and industry associations
about commercially available alternative DWR technologies and chemistries. In order to
determine the feasibility of the alternative technologies and chemistries, performance
(for both priority and general products) and hazard criteria need to be defined to
evaluate the alternatives. The performance criteria would include water and oil
repellency, stain release as well as other important performance attributes such as
fabric breathability, durability, etc. The hazard criteria would be used to evaluate the
potential human health and environmental impacts associated with the alternative
technologies and chemistries. Similar to performance, specific human health and
environmental endpoints would be defined. These endpoints would include acute and
chronic mammalian and aquatic toxicities, environmental persistence and
bioaccumulation. Additionally, chemistries recognized to be of high concern by national
and international regulatory bodies would be identified. For each alternative DWR
technology and chemistry, chemical specific information would be documented. An
9
attempt would be made to identify the composition of chemical mixtures and their
byproducts.
Lastly, this report would provide recommendations in moving from DWR technologies
and chemistries containing long-chain perfluoroalkyl functionality to technologies and
chemistries containing short-chain perfluoroalkyl functionality. This would include factors
to be addressed in making a technology or chemical substitution.
2. Research methodology
Two primary strategies were utilized to identify commercially available alternative DWRs
with short-chain and non-fluorinated technologies and chemistries. They were outreach
to organizations and an online research.
2.1 Outreach to organizations
The following steps were carried out to outreach to chemical manufacturers including
manufacturers of long-chain fluorinated chemistries and other organizations:
1. Developed list of major chemical producers (such as Huntsman, DuPont,

Clariant, Dystar, BASF, etc.); chemical and apparel/footwear industry
associations; research institutes; national and international chemical regulatory
agencies (Danish EPA, US EPA, UNEP, etc.); apparel/footwear brands; and non-
clothing companies that may employ or have information on water, oil or stain
repellent technologies and/or chemistries.
2. Reviewed the respective websites of the chemical producers, industry
associations, regulatory agencies and the other companies to determine whether
or not they produce or have information on alternative DWR technologies and
chemistries.
3. Created a master list of the companies and organizations to contact for
information on alternative DWR technologies and chemistries.
4. Drafted and submitted an email to the contacts on this list requesting information
about short-chain and non-fluorinated alternative DWR technologies and
chemistries.
5. Documented all the information received in a in a single location. Information to
document included chemical manufacturer, technology or chemistry, process
description, performance, health and environmental hazards, etc.
2.2 Online research
The second strategy involved an online search for alternative DWR technologies and
chemistries using key terms. Examples of key terms included short-chain fluorinated
water repellent, alternatives to long-chain fluorinated DWR, alternatives to PFOA and
PFOS water repellents, short-chain fluorinated DWR and durable water repellents.
Online sources used to conduct research included scientific journals and online search
engines, such as Google and Google scholar.
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ScienceDirect and Wiley InterScience journal databases contain series of scientific

journals that were reviewed for articles on DWR technologies and chemistries. The
following are other scientific journals that were reviewed:
 Journal of Industrial Textiles

 Journal of the Textile Institute
 Textile Research Journal
 Journal of Material Chemistry
 Journal of Applied Polymer Science
 Advance Functional Materials
 Journal of Colloid and Interface Science
In conducting the online search for alternative DWR technologies and chemistries, the
procedures listed below were followed.
a. Obtained access to the journals listed above if subscription is not free.

b. Searched journal databases using key terms to identify articles on alternative
technologies and chemistries.
2.3 Evaluation of alternative DWR technologies and chemistries
The identified alternative (short-chain and non-fluorinated) DWR technologies and

chemistries would be evaluated on their performance and health and environmental
attributes to establish a list of potentially feasible technologies and chemistries.
Preliminary criteria were developed to evaluate the alternative DWR technologies and
chemistries proposed by companies, institutions and/or agencies for performance
feasibility. The criteria indicated minimum performance levels that can be used to
screen-out less suitable technologies and chemistries with respect to water and oil
repellency, stain release, fabric breathability, durability, etc. Experts and stakeholders
provided input in determining the elements included in performance level criteria.
Additional research (including an online research) was required if the information
provided on the alternative DWR technologies and chemistries to aid in performance
evaluation is incomplete.
Criteria used to assess the human health and environmental hazards of the alternative
DWR technologies and chemistries were also developed. Again, inputs from experts
were used to determine the hazard criteria. Additional research to identify potential
hazards of the DWR technologies and chemistries was also required if information
provided is incomplete. With respect to human health and environmental effects, any
applicable national and international regulation that exists on the alternative
technologies and chemistries were included.
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3. Overview of durable water repellent finishes
Durable water repellents (DWRs) are topical finishes applied to fabrics to provide
protection against water, oil and soil. DWR finishes add value to textile products. In
addition to providing protection against water, oil and soil, these finishes also extend the
life of products and keep them looking newer longer.1 DWR finishes are applied at
varying amounts to achieve a specific level of performance which is set by a brand or
retailer selling the finished textile product.
The DWR is a polymer, in particle form, that has pendant fluoroalkyl chains attached to
the polymer backbone. On the fabric surface, the polymer particle melts and spreads to
cover the fabric surface during the drying of the fabric after it has been applied. The
fluoroalkyl chains orient perpendicular to the fabric surface. It can be imagined as
microscopic umbrellas connected to the polymer backbone. This myriad of “umbrellas”
creates a low surface energy surface on the fabric. The surface energy is lower than
water or oils. Therefore, when water or oils contact the fabric surface they cannot wet
or spread out, they bead up having a high "contact angle." An optimized DWR finish is
designed for a specific fabric based on its fiber type and fabric construction to form an
array of microscopic polymer domains on the fabric surface (not a film or coating) with
the fluorinated chains erect, perpendicular to the fabric surface and close enough to one
another to act like a continuous surface. The image is a plethora of microscopic
umbrellas on the surface with the tips touching so that no water or oil can penetrate to
the fabric. Water or oil cannot spread out, forcing them to bead up and slide off the
fabric.2
At present, there is not a single acceptable performance level for DWR finishes on
apparel. The required performance level of the DWR finish is dependent on the apparel
products, their intended uses and other important factors such as their durability to
laundering and dry cleaning, resistance to abrasion and fabric breathability. While
relatively lower performing finishes may be suitable for certain consumer products, other
products necessitate high performing DWR finishes. For example, a high performance
rain jacket may require a different DWR performance than a shirt intended for casual
use. Likewise, apparel which is frequently laundered requires a different level of
performance than one which is not.
Water repellency can be achieved with many types of finishes, including waxes, oils and
silicones but these compounds can be penetrated by oil, including lotions and oils from
skin. The most effective or high performing DWR finishes are those containing
perfluoroalkyl functionalities. As such, fluorinated chemistries have been the most
widely used DWR finishes for textile applications as they are the most effective at
repelling both oil and water. They can be applied to both natural and synthetic fibers
and their blends, and meet performance specifications over a wide range of
requirements.3
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Fluorinated chemistry works by binding and fixing the fluorinated polymer to the fiber
surface in such a way that it remains fixed even after many washings. The repellency
finish allows; liquids to bead up and roll off the fabric, liquid spills to be easily wiped
away when blotted with a clean cloth and dry soil can be brushed off easily.
Non-fluorinated chemistries are also used as DWR for textile products. These include
paraffin, stearic acid-melamine and silicone chemistries, as well as chemistries
containing dendrimers and nano-materials.4’5
4. Repellent chemistries for textile applications
4.1 Long-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries
Historically, DWR containing long perfluoroalkyl chains have been the chemistry of
choice for textile applications. Perfluorinated chemicals are used to incorporate raw
materials containing a perfluoroalkyl chain into acrylic or urethane polymer that are used
as DWR finishes. When applied to fabrics, these finishes form a structure on the outer
surface of fiber to provide maximum repellency. The unique water and oil repellency
properties of DWR finishes are derived from the perfluoroalkyl chain that is attached to
the acrylic or urethane polymer backbone.
DWR finishes containing long-chain perfluoroalkyl functionality are modified to have a

wide range of properties to fit the different demands of the users and the intended
purpose. They allow reduction in volume of the finishes that can be applied and
consequently reducing associated costs and life-cycle impacts for a treated garment.6’7
They also have excellent chemical and thermal stability which provides treated fabrics
with good durability (e.g., during laundering and dry-cleaning.8 Most repellents based on
this chemistry are applied by padding process and then dried and cured.9
4.1.1 Concerns of long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids
Since the 1950’s long-chain PFAAs as well as polymer and surfactants containing long-
chain perfluoroalkyl functionality (termed by some as “C8”) that may degrade to form
long-chain PFAAs have been widely used in numerous industrial and commercial
applications.10’11 As a consequence of this widespread use, long-chain PFAAs including
perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) have been
detected globally in the environment, wildlife and humans.
Concerns about the potential environmental and human health impacts of these long-
chain PFAAs have led to actions by regulators and industry. Long-chain PFAAs have
been defined as (i) perfluorocarboxylic acid (PFCA) and perfluoroalkyl sulfonates
(PFSA) with a minimum of 8 and 6 carbon chain lengths, respectively and (ii)
substances, such as fluorinated polymers that may break down to form long-chain
PFAAs.12’13 The PFCA subcategory of long-chain PFAAs includes PFOA, higher
homologues, and their salts and precursors. The PFSA subcategory includes
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perfluorohexane sulfonic acid (PFHxS), PFOS, higher homologues, and their salts and
precursors (see Figure 1 below).
Long-chain PFAC
PFOA Higher homologues Salts Precursors
Long-chain PFAS
PFHxS PFOS Higher homologues Salts Precursors
Figure 1: Categories and subcategories of long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs)14

Source: United States Environmental Protection Agency (U.S.EPA)
Over time, DWR finishes with the long-chain chemistries on textiles can wear off.
Intensive washing of textiles increases the amounts of the finishes that are lost to the
environment.15 In the course of their intentional use in products or unintended loss,
long-chain PFAAs are released into the environment in significant quantities. PFOA and
PFOS are the most widely known and studied of the long-chain PFAAs.16
As a result of their strong carbon-fluorine bonds, PFOA and PFOS do not break down in
the environment. They have been shown to be persistent in the environment and have
long elimination half-life in wildlife and in humans. Numerous reports have documented
the presence of long-chain PFAAs in aquatic environments in Japan, United States,
Germany and Italy, with PFOA and PFOS comprising the most detected chemicals.17’18
It should be noted that PFOA and PFOS can also be unintentionally produced. For
example, PFOA can be produced by degradation of other fluorinated chemicals.19 It can
be found in consumer products as an impurity and unintended byproduct, and not as a
deliberately added ingredient. This is particularly the case in products treated with
perfluoroalkyl-containing chemicals.20 In ecosystems and in living organisms, chemicals
such as perfluorosulfonamide can be biotransformed to PFOS.21
Since PFOA and PFOS are ubiquitous in the environment, exposure to these chemicals
is also widespread. PFOS was the predominant perfluorinated chemical found among
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473 human blood samples collected from United States, Colombia, Brazil, Belgium,
Italy, Poland, India, Malaysia, and Korea.22 Other detected perfluorinated chemicals in
the blood samples included PFOA. In the United States, PFOA and PFOS were
detected in over 98 percent of 2,094 serum samples collected between 2003 and
2004.23 Breast milk samples collected from mothers from Sweden and China have also
been found to contain PFOA and PFOS.24’25 To date, epidemiologic data is insufficient
to conclusively associate these chemicals with any of the diseases of concern. 26
Nonetheless, toxicological studies and the limited epidemiologic studies have
associated PFOA and PFOS to severe adverse health outcomes, including reproductive
and developmental effects, immune system effects and cancer.27
4.1.2 Regulatory and industry initiatives on long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids
Given the persistent, bioaccumulative and potentially toxic nature of long-chain PFAAs,
regulatory actions have been put in place or are being considered in several countries
to manage them.28
Canada has added PFOS to its Virtual Elimination List of toxic substances, prohibiting
the manufacture, use and sale of PFOS or products containing PFOS.29 The European
Commission’s Scientific Committee on Health and Environmental Risks (SCHER) has
classified PFOS as very persistent, very bioaccumulative and toxic, and its use is
restricted in the European Union (EU).30 The Commission is also considering similar
restriction for PFOA since its health and environmental risk profile is comparable to
PFOS.
In 2009, the Stockholm Convention added PFOS to its list of persistent organic
pollutants (POPs).31 PFOS and PFOS-related substances in firefighting foams and
textiles have been banned in Norway since 2007.32
The United States Environmental Protection Agency (U.S.EPA) is considering initiating

section 6 rulemaking of the Toxics Substances Control Act (TSCA) to manage long-
chain PFAAs. The TSCA section 6 provides U.S.EPA with the authority to ban or restrict
the manufacture, processing or use of these chemicals.33
The Australian National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme

(NICNAS) has recommended restricting uses of PFOS, except for essential uses for
which no suitable or less hazardous alternatives are available.34
There are also voluntary initiatives aimed at reducing the uses of long-chain PFAAs.
Under the U.S.EPA PFOA Stewardship Program, eight major manufacturers of PFOA
have committed to phasing out PFOA by the end of 2015.35 In 2000, 3M – one of the
major manufacturers of PFOA and PFOS– decided to phase out production of PFOS
and PFOS-related products and has developed a new technology to reformulate
products that are affected by the phase out.36
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4.2 Other repellent chemistries for textile applications
4.2.1 Short-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries
In light of the concerns associated with long-chain PFAAs, there is a shift towards DWR
chemistries with shorter perfluoroalkyl chains (also termed “C6” or C4” depending on
the number of carbons in the perfluoroalkyl chain). Chemically, short-chain fluorinated
chemistries are closely related to their long-chains homologues. DWRs containing
short-chain fluorinated chemistries are produced using perfluoroalkyl raw materials such
as fluorotelomer alcohols that are not expected to break down in the environment into
PFOA and PFOS.37
Short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries are now promoted by the chemical industry as
having comparable repellency and other performance attributes to long-chain
chemistries. The industry is, in fact, on a learning curve to match the performance levels
of DWR finishes with long-chain fluorinated chemistries. In general, short-chain
fluorinated DWR chemistries are not as effective as those with long-chain chemistries,
particularly in repelling oil. For higher performance applications including 50 or more
home laundering cycles, and strong rain and aggressive stain resistance, there are
reductions in performance levels achieved with short-chain fluorinated DWR
chemistries. Although certain performance levels may eventually be achieved, it is
understood that there are critical applications where the required performance levels
may never be achieved by short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries.
In less critical applications, the reduced performance levels of short-chain fluorinated

DWR chemistries can be compensated by applying higher amounts of finishes. The
claim that short-chain fluorinated chemistries are substitutes for DWR finishes with long-
chain chemistries may not necessarily imply a simple replacement of currently used
DWR finishes. Substituting a long-chain with short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries
may require optimizing application methods.
Although short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries cannot break down in the

environment into PFOA and PFOS, degradation by-products of short-chain fluorinated
chemistries may also be substances of concern. Potential byproducts of the short short-
chain fluorinated chemistries include perfluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA) and
perfluorobutane sulfonic acid (PFBS). Both of these substances are persistent in the
environment. They are, nonetheless, recognized to be less toxic and bioaccumulative
according to available studies.38 Given that substances associated with short-chain
fluorinated chemistries are persistent in the environment, uses which may cause
widespread dispersion run the risk of not being approved for use in certain countries.
For example, the Australian government has taken measures to restrict any use of
PFBS-based substances that would result in widespread dispersion in aquatic
environments.39
16
4.2.2 Paraffin repellent chemistries
Paraffin was one of the earliest water repellent chemistries used. These repellent
products are generally emulsions containing aluminum or zirconium salts of fatty acids,
usually stearic acid. They provide good water repellency due to their zirconium ion
holding onto fiber, and the fact that their water repellent groups have good orientation
on fiber surfaces. They are generally compatible with other types of textile finishes but
they have increased flammability. Despite providing good water repellency effects,
paraffin repellents do not repel oil and are generally not durable to laundering and dry
cleaning. Additionally, fabrics treated with paraffin-based finishes are less permeable by
air and vapor, resulting in poor wear comfort. Paraffin repellent finishes can be applied
by both padding and exhaustion finishing processes.40
4.2.3 Stearic acid-melamine repellent chemistries
Stearic acid-melamine repellent chemistries are composed of compounds formed by a

reaction between stearic acid and formaldehyde and melamine. The low water affinity
characteristic of the stearic acid groups of the finish provide the water repellency, while
the N-methylol groups that are formed react with cellulose or with each other to
generate permanent repellent effects.
An advantage of stearic acid-melamine repellents is that they have increased durability

to laundering. However, these repellents have decreased abrasion resistance and fabric
tear strength, cause changes in the shade of dyed fabrics and release formaldehyde.41
The release of formaldehyde is a problem for human health and safety given the
adverse effects from exposure. Formaldehyde is classified as a known human
carcinogen.42 In facilities where formaldehyde is used or may be potentially released,
worker health must be monitored. Formaldehyde is subjected to restriction by regulatory
agencies in most industrialized countries, with the concentration allowed in workplace
air space limited to 0.1 ppm.43
Stearic acid-melamine repellents can be effectively applied to fabrics by exhaustion

finishing process but the common application process used is padding. These repellents
are in some cases used as extenders for fluorinated DWR chemistries to improve their
performance and reduce the amount of fluorochemical used.44
4.2.4 Silicone repellent chemistries
Polydimethylsiloxanes are the most common silicone repellents. Their unique structure
provides the ability to form hydrogen bonds with fibers and exhibit repellency effects on
the outer surface of fibers.
Silicone repellents designed to be durable finishes generally consist of a silanol, a

silane and a catalyst such as tin octoate. The silanol and silane components react to
form a three-dimensional cross-linked sheath around fibers and the catalyst promotes
alignment of the silicone film on the fiber surface, with the outward positioned methyl
groups of the silicone polymer generating the water repellency effects.
17
Silicon repellents offer a high degree of water repellency at relatively low

concentrations. Yet, their repellency can be reduced if excess amounts are applied.
They have only moderate durability to laundering and dry cleaning, and no oil and soil
repellency. Waste water, particularly from residual baths of the finish application
processes, is toxic to fish. 45 Some silicone repellents can be applied by exhaustion
process (see section 5).
4.2.5 Dendrimer based repellent chemistries
Dendrimer based repellent chemistry is a relatively new field of repellent chemistry.

Dendrimers are characterized by regular hyperbranched monomers leading to
monodisperse, tree-like structures. The synthesis of monodisperse polymers demands
a high level of synthetic control which can be achieved through step by step reaction,
building the dendrimer up one monomer layer at a time. The primary components of
each dendrimer are the core, internal cavities, branching units and closely packed
surface groups.
Historically, dendrimers have been used in the fields of genetics, medicine, biology and
chemistry. In textile chemistry, finishes containing dendrimers are applied to fabrics to
impart water and oil repellency properties.46
4.2.6 Nano-material based repellent chemistries
Repellent chemistries containing nano-materials are coated on fabrics to achieve

desirable properties without a significant increase in weight, thickness or stiffness. The
properties that can be imparted on textiles using nanotechnology include water
repellency and soil resistance. The use of chemistries containing nano-materials to
impart water repellency and stain resistance effects on textile is one of the most
common ways nanotechnology is being used in the textile industry. To achieve these
attributes, fabrics are embedded with tiny fibers, called nano-whiskers. Nano-whiskers
form a cushion of air around fiber to repel water and stains. This treatment is believed to
be durable to repeated home laundering cycles.47
With respect to hazard, there is limited health and safety and environmental impact
assessment available of nano-materials. Available evidence suggests that nano-
materials have toxic properties to both human health and the environment and may
have greater risk than larger particle. Unlike larger particles, nano-materials are capable
of being transported within human cells and be taken up by cellular structures and
cause cell damage due to their greater chemical reactivity.48
5. Repellent finishing processes
Durable water repellent finishes are mostly applied to fabrics after dyeing and/or printing
but before the fabrics are made into garments. Other finishes can also be successfully
18
applied to garments. There is not one single process for applying repellent finishes to
textile fabrics. The process employed in the finishing largely depends on the chemicals
to be used, the fabric type and the available machinery. After finishes are applied to
fabrics, they must be dried. In some cases, curing is necessary to achieve the ideal
level of performance on finished fabrics. Chemicals with strong affinities for the surface
of fibers can be applied by exhaustion in dyeing machines, usually after the dyeing
process has been completed.49 In this process, the textile fabric is loaded into a
machine containing the finishing chemical for a period of minutes to hours, depending
on the time required for the chemical to react with the textile fabric.50
Padding is another process of applying repellent finishes to textile fabrics. This is the
primary application process used in textile finishing. It involves passing the fabric
through the chemical finish solution and then through two nip rollers to squeeze out
excess solution, leaving the fabric with a certain amount of the chemical finish. The
amount of the repellent finish imparted on the fabric is known as the “wet pickup.” The
wet pickup is affected by several factors such as the type of fiber, fabric construction, as
well as the pressure of the squeeze nip rollers, temperature and concentration of the
solution, and length of time during which the fabric was immersed in the chemical
solution. In order to achieve a consistent application of the chemical finish on the fabric,
the non-fabric related factors must remain constant throughout the application
process.51
Repellent finishes can be sprayed directly onto fabric surfaces. Spraying delivers a set
amount of the finish to the textile fabric which can be adjusted by controlling the flow
rate. With spraying, it is possible to create uneven finishes from overlapping spray
patterns. Spraying is commonly used for silicone-based repellent chemistries but can
also be used with fluorinated DWR chemistries if a low level of the finish is required on
the fabric and appropriate inhalation toxicity data is available to ensure safe use.52
Foams are used to apply finishes to textile fabrics to reduce the amount of water used in
the finishing processes. With foams, water in the chemical finishing process is replaced
with air. Foam generators produce foam with the required density which is applied to the
fabric. A squeeze roller can then be used to ensure uniform application of the foams.
Similar to spraying, foam application of fluorinated DWR chemistries is used when a low
level of the finish is required.53
6. Performance attributes and requirements of treated textile fabrics
6.1 Types of fabric performance attributes
The performance of DWR finishes on textile products is a complex property to evaluate.

Performance is not based on a single fabric attribute that a DWR finish delivers but
instead, a combination of several attributes.
19
Taking into consideration the intended end use of the textile product, a fabric may
require water repellency, water resistance, oil repellency and soil/stain release. In some
cases, not all performance attributes are necessary on a fabric. On the other hand,
some intended end uses of products may require multiple attributes on the same fabric.
As such, the repellent finish applied on the fabric will have to provide all required
attributes and at specified performance levels.
Repellent finishes are also required to permit the transfer of air and water vapor through
fabrics (breathability) and be durable to repeated laundering and dry cleaning, as well
as abrasion. Durability is measured using test methods after laundering, dry cleaning,
abrasion, etc. to simulate actual uses of products (see Appendix A). For fabrics that
may require only a single attribute for the intended use, there is the possibility that the
level of performance of that attribute may be negatively affected by lack of other
attributes in certain cases. For example, in the absence of oil repellency the
performance of a fabric treated with a DWR finishes which only offers water repellency
may be reduced when the surface of the fabric is stained by oily stains.
In addition to repellency and stain release, there are other important attributes that are
considered in determining the performance of finishes. For example, repellent finishes
applied on textile fabrics can impact fabric color, handle and tear strength. All these
fabric attributes are essential for the end users of the textile products.
6.2 Repellents performance requirements and test methods
6.2.1 Performance requirements
The required performance level of DWR finishes depend on the intended use of the
textile product in addition to fabric type, required fabric weight, and expected number of
laundering cycles of product. There is not a single acceptable performance level for
DWR finishes on textile products. Required performance levels are set by brands or
retailers selling the finished textile products and vary considerably from one brand or
retailer to the next and from one fabric or product to another, and often constitute
intellectual property of the brand or retailer in question. The myriad fabric performance
attributes and the performance requirements make it very challenging for the
establishment of a generic performance criteria. For example, a retailer of a pair of
slacks may require an initial water repellency rating of 80 and 70 after 20 home
laundering cycles; and initial oil repellency rating of 4 and 3.5 after 20 home laundering
cycles; and an initial stain release rating of 5 and 3.5 after the same number of home
laundering cycles [as evaluated by AATCC test methods 22, 118 and 130, respectively
(see section 6.2.2 below)]. Another retailer may only be concerned with water and
would require just a water repellency test with different specifications or may use other
test methods (either by the AATCC or another organizations) to evaluate the product’s
performance level.
There is a not a clear association between different fabric attributes. A DWR finish’s
ability to provide one attribute does not ultimately guarantee that it will also provide
20
other attributes. There are some good repellents that are poor releases and vice versa.
Even in the case of fluorinated DWR chemistries which can provide both water and oil
repellency, there is still no clear association between water repellency and oil repellency
attributes. Some fluorinated DWR chemistries are better on oil repellency while others
are better water repellents.
6.2.2 Test Methods
Generally, test methods such as those developed by the American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), International Organization for Standardization
(ISO) and the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) are employed in
evaluating the performance levels of finishes applied on fabrics.
Similar to required performance levels, the test method employed in evaluating

performance of fabrics or products also vary by brand or retailer. To add to the
complexity of evaluating performance, more than one test method even from the same
organization (e.g. AATCC) can used to evaluate the same fabric attribute.
The AATCC standardized test methods are the most widely used test methods in the
textile industry. It is important to note that test results of all AATCC test methods and
test methods from other organizations are numerically quantified. They do not define
“passing” or “failing” for any test. The designation of what constitutes a “pass” or “fail”
result for any test method is established individually by brands and retailers based on
the results of the test methods and their required performance level of a textile fabric or
product.
The following are some of the widely used test methods for fabrics treated with a
repellent finish (see Appendix B for additional test methods).
Test method Summary description

Water sprayed against the taut surface of a treated fabric
under controlled conditions produces a wetted pattern. The
size of the wetted pattern which depends on the relative
repellency of the fabric is compared to a standard chart of
fabric water repellency ratings of zero (0), 50, 70, 80, 90 and
100. A rating of zero (0) is assigned if the fabric’s surface is
AATCC TM 22-water repellency: spray completely wetted by water, whereas a rating of 100
test corresponds to no wetting of water on the surface of the fabric.
Water is sprayed on a treated fabric, backed by a weighed
blotter paper, for 5 minutes under controlled conditions. The
blotter paper is then reweighed to determine the amount of
water which leaks through the fabric during the test. This test
AATCC TM 35- water resistance: rain method measures the treated fabric’s resistance to rain
test penetration.
A volume of water is spayed against the taut surface of a
AATCC TM 42-water resistance: impact treated fabric backed by a weighed blotter paper. The blotter
penetration test paper is then reweighed to determine the amount of water
21
penetrating the fabric. This test method measures the treated

fabric’s resistance to penetration of water by impact.
The surface of a treated fabric is exposed to hydrostatic
pressure at a constant rate until three points of leakage appear
on the other surface. This test method measures the fabric’s
resistance to penetration of water under hydrostatic pressure.
AATCC TM 127-water resistance: The results of this test method may not be the same as those
hydrostatic pressure test evaluating resistance to rain or spray water.
The treated fabric is mounted to a cup and then exposed to an
artificial rain under defined conditions. The surface of the
treated fabric is subjected to rubbing to simulate a user
carrying a bag on the shoulder of a garment. This test
measures the resistance of a fabric to the penetration of water.
The water repellency of the fabric is assessed by comparison
of the wet fabrics to a standard chart with rating of 1, 2, 3, 4
and 5. A rating of 1 is assigned if a fabric’s surface is
completely wet, whereas a rating of 5 corresponds to fast
runoff of small water drops with no wetting on the fabric
surface. Mass of the fabric is recorded before and after
artificial rain exposure to determine the percent water
absorbed in the fabric. Also, water is collected in the sample
ISO 9865-water repellency: cup that has passed through the fabric and it volume (mL) and
Bundesmann rain shower test mass (g) recorded.
This test method is a European standard that defines test
conditions under which ready-made garments are exposed to
heavy rain. It applies to garments such as jackets, trousers,
coats, etc. This test method does not apply to the testing of
EN 14360–rain test (test method for garments for resistance to other weather conditions such as
ready-made garments) snow or strong winds.
Drops of a selected series of water/alcohol solutions of
different surface tensions are placed on a treated fabric
AATCC TM 193-aqueous liquid surface and observed for wetting. This test method is used to
repellency: water/alcohol solution evaluate the effectiveness of the finish in imparting a low
resistance test surface energy on the surface of the treated fabric.
Drops of eight selected liquid hydrocarbons of different surface
tensions are placed on a treated fabric and observed for
wetting. The oil repellency grade of the fabric is the highest
numbered test liquid which does not wet the fabric surface with
the highest achievable grade being 8. This test method is used
AATCC TM 118-oil repellency: to detect the presence of a finish capable of imparting a low
hydrocarbon resistance test energy surface on the treated fabric.
A stain applied on the treated fabric is forced into the fabric
using a specified weight. The stained fabric is then laundered
in a prescribed manner and the residual stain is compared to a
graduated series of stains. This test method measures the
AATCC TM 130-soil release: oily stain ability of the fabric to release oily stains during home
release method laundering.
Table 1: Test methods for fabrics treated with durable water repellent finishes
22
6.3 Actual industry practices in assessing performance of DWR finishes
Practical methods used in assessing the performance of DWR finishes on fabrics vary
significantly by brand and/or retailer. This information is mostly considered intellectual
property by most brands and retailers. With respect to the outdoor apparel industry, the
typical approach for outerwear involves the use of AATCC test method 22, ISO 99865
(Bundesmann rain shower test) and AATCC test method 127.
For AATCC test method 22, a rating of 80 before and after 10 home laundering cycles is
considered passing. This test method is required for rainwear customs duty.
Bundesmann rain shower test is used to simulate actual use of textile products by end
users. A rating of 4 after 10 minutes using the Bundesmann rain shower test is
considered passing. AATCC test method 127 is only used on garments with taped
seams. This method is used to assess the integrity of the taped seam bond, not the
fabric, and it is a pass at 3 lbs after 10 minutes.
7. Health and environmental attributes of repellent chemistries
Repellency, stain release and other fabric attributes alone are not enough to determine
the overall performance of a DWR finishes. The health and environmental attributes of
repellent chemistries, including raw materials and byproducts are critical factors to
consider in ensuring that DWR finishes are safe both for the end users of products and
workers, and the environment. There are specific hazard endpoints that are used to
evaluate the human health and environmental attributes of chemical substances (see
Appendix C). They include acute and chronic mammalian toxicity, acute and chronic
aquatic toxicity, and environmental toxicity and fate. These endpoints evaluate the
intrinsic hazard of chemicals. Some hazard endpoints may be more critical than others
depending on chemical uses and exposure potential. Evaluating the health and
environmental attributes ensure that one potentially hazardous chemical is not replaced
by another.
In assessing the potential health and environmental attributes of DWR chemistries, a

comprehensive approach is required to address their overall impacts. Lack of an
association to PFOA and PFOS should not be the only criteria used to assess potential
impacts. Instead, the overall risk associated with the DWR chemistries, not just hazard
alone, should be taken into account. As described above, chemistries that are not
associated with PFOA and PFOS may be linked to other substances (either in the DWR
finish or in the production process) of concern. By-products of short-chain fluorinated
chemistries are persistent in the environment and are subject to use restrictions in
certain countries. Although these by-products have been shown to be less toxic and
bioaccumulative, their persistence is judged to be a characteristic of concern,
particularly if they can be widely dispersed in the environment.
23
Non-fluorinated DWR chemistries are also not without human health and environmental
concerns. Stearic acid-melamine chemistries may release formaldehyde during textile
processing. And application processes used to apply silicone repellent finishes to textile
products generate waste water that is toxic to fish. It should be noted that some DWR
chemistries (e.g., chemistries containing dendrimers and nano-materials) are relatively
new and may not be well studied. These chemistries may therefore lack enough data to
perform assessments of their effects on human health and the environment. Lack of
hazard data should not correspond to the assumption that these chemistries are safer
or have favorable human health and environmental properties. Conducting a hazard
assessment of DWR chemistries using the endpoints listed in Appendix C could help
ensure that the impacts of chemistries, including impacts related to their raw materials
and by-products are taken into consideration when selecting replacement chemistries
for long-chain fluorinated DWRs.
8. Commercially available alternative DWR technologies and chemistries for

textile applications
There were a limited number of chemical producers and/or suppliers who responded to
the request for information on commercially available alternative DWR technologies and
chemistries.
8.1 Short-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries
Information about commercially available alternative DWR finishes containing short-

chain fluorinated chemistries received from the chemical producers contacted was
predominantly repellent finishes product brochures. These repellent finishes claim to
offer comparable or superior performance attributes associated with finishes containing
long-chain fluorinated chemistries, including water and oil repellency and stain release.
Nonetheless, not all the repellent finishes with short-chain chemistries are marketed as
providing both repellency and stain release attributes. Depending on the manufacturer,
some finishes containing short-chain chemistries are marketed for use on textile fabrics
to provide either water and oil repellency or stain release.
Very limited information was provided regarding performance levels, methods used to
evaluate the performance and other important attributes (such as durability to repeated
laundering and dry cleaning, abrasion resistance and breathability) of these chemistries.
There is a lack of an industry-wide performance standard against which the short chain
fluorinated DWR chemistries can be evaluated. And since the performance
requirements of repellent finishes vary from brand to brand, the provision of repellent
finishes’ performance levels for the different fabric attributes may have served little to no
purpose in understanding actual performance levels for the different fabric types and
their intended uses. The performance of repellent finishes varies from fabric to fabric
and even for the same fabric with different intended uses.
24
Commercially available DWR finishes containing short-chain fluorinated chemistries

vary considerably regarding the textile fabrics (or fibers) on which they can be applied.
Few repellent finishes claim to have application on fabrics of all fiber types, whereas
others claim to have applications on cotton, wool or synthetics and their blends. There
were other repellent finishes that indicated the final product, rather than the fabric, on
which they can be applied.
With respect to their potential health and environmental impacts, not all chemical
producers provided actual hazard data on their repellent products. The few hazard data
provided was not comprehensive across the list of hazard endpoints (Appendix C).
Some DWR finishes with short-chain fluorinated chemistries claim no association with
both PFOA and PFOS. In other words, the chemistries do not break down in the
environment into PFOA and PFOS. Other finishes claim to be PFOA- and/or PFOS-free,
explaining that these chemicals may be present as impurities but below their levels of
detection. It is unclear whether finishes that claim not to break down in the environment
are also implying that PFOA and PFOS impurities are present but below detectable
limits.
PFOA and PFOS are not the only possible degradation products of fluorinated
substances. Other byproducts of these commercially available DWR finishes containing
short-chain fluorinated chemistries may be substances of potential concern.
8.2 Non-fluorinated repellent chemistries
Commercially available non-fluorinated chemistries submitted by chemical producers

included the acrylic- and urethane-based, as well as other conventional chemistries
such as paraffin, silicone and stearic acid-melamine. These commercially available non-
fluorinated chemistries only claim to provide water repellency. No non-fluorinated
chemistry is marketed as a stain release finish. Similar to the short-chain chemistries,
there was limited information provided on performance of these non-fluorinated
chemistries.
8.3 Repellent chemistries identified through internet searches
Online journal search yielded no results on short-chain fluorinated chemistries. A search

for short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries in the ScienceDirect, Wiley InterScience,
and other journal databases yielded several articles but contained no relevant
information. Information about short-chain fluorinated chemistries was only available
through chemical producers.
9. Recommendations

process. There are many product performance requirements to be met and other critical
25
factors to take into account. The availability of alternative chemistries may be an

indication that there is potential for substituting DWRs containing long-chain with short-
chain fluorinated chemistries. Yet, the complexities of DWR chemistries and their
applications require a thorough assessment of the available alternative short-chain
chemistries to understand their potential applications. Additional research is needed in
order to realize opportunities that exist and make an informed decision about when a
move to short-chain DWR chemistries can occur. Sections 9.1 and 9.2 below provide
some practical steps to address in follow up research projects in moving from long-
chain to short-chain and non-fluorinated DWR chemistries.
One important aspect to consider in making chemical substitutions relates to their socio-
economic impacts. Socio-economic impact assessment is designed to help in making
decisions that promote long term sustainability of a proposed idea, including economic
prosperity, improvements in the health of communities and social well-being. With
respect to restricting the use of chemicals, socio-economic impact assessment helps in
realizing the net benefits to human health and the environment, and the net costs to
manufacturers, importers, downstream users, distributors, consumers and society as a
whole. It also provides a comprehensive comparison between available risk
management options on chemicals and proposed restrictions.
Under the European Union’s chemical regulation, REACH, socio-economic impact

assessment is considered to play a vital role in the process of restricting and authorizing
the use of chemicals. The European Chemical Agency (ECHA) has been active in
developing and promoting the application of socio-economic impact assessment in
regulating chemicals. The agency is currently working to assess the cost associated
with substituting substances with alternatives and has developed a technical guidance
document on how to assess the socio-economic impact of substitutions.54
According to ECHA, any proposed restriction on the use of a chemical needs to

demonstrate why the risk associated with the chemical should be managed at a
community-wide level. The proposed restriction should be compared to other available
options that can be used to manage the risk associated with the chemicals in question.
It should then be assessed for the benefits and costs to human health, the environment
and society as a whole.
9.1 Some practical steps for moving from long-chain to short-chain fluorinated
DWR chemistries
(i) Identify product group using DWR finishes and their fabric types
Not all textile products are treated DWR finishes. As such, the initial step for
moving from long-chain to short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries may
require brands to identify their products that are treated with DWR finishes.
Since finishes are mostly applied to fabrics and that performance varies by
26
fabric type, the fabric composition of products treated with DWR finishes
should be noted.
(ii) Define fabrics performance attributes and required performance levels,

including durability requirements
Depending on the intended use of products, a fabric may require one or more
performance attributes. For the most part, brands are familiar with attributes
desired on their products and test methods used to evaluate performance.
Nonetheless, performance attributes for some brands may go beyond water
and oil repellency and stain release. There is a myriad of other attributes that
may be desired on products by some, but not all, brands. It is critical that
brands recognize all desired fabric attributes for their products and their
performance levels, including the required number of laundering cycles. Other
important requirements such as weight of fabrics should be taken into
account when defining requirements.
(iii) Define desired environmental and health characteristics
The human health and environmental attributes of DWR chemistries are as

important as their performance levels. Recognizing the potential human
health and environmental impacts of chemistries would ensure that substitute
DWR chemistries are not equally or more hazardous than the finishes they
replace. As such, brands should define the desired human health and
environmental attributes of DWR chemistries supplied by chemical producers.
There may be the need for prioritizing the comprehensive list hazard
endpoints listed in Appendix C. In reality, chemical producers are not likely to
have complete hazard data for their DWR finishes, raw materials and by-
products. The criteria for evaluating human health and environmental impacts
can perhaps be persistence, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT). In addition,
brands should require third party certification that short-chain fluorinated
DWR chemistries are indeed not associated with PFOA and PFOS.
It should be noted that the long-chain fluorinated chemistries are well known
and studied. On the other hand, short-chain fluorinated chemistries may lack
enough data to enable assessments of their potential human health and
environmental impacts. Brands should set strong requirements for chemical
hazard data for short-chain fluorinated chemistries that are potential
replacements for long-chain chemistries.
In addition to intrinsic hazards, the overall risk associated with the DWR
chemistries should be taken into account. This would provide a better
understanding of the true impacts of the DWR chemistries.
(iv) Identify suppliers with alternative repellent chemistries that provide the
defined attributes
27
Short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries marketed by chemical producers or

suppliers do not all provide the desired attributes on fabrics. Some short-
chain fluorinated chemistries may be better repellents than releases and other
may be better releases than repellents. Additionally, some may be relatively
more durable. To recognize the DWR chemistries that may be feasible
alternatives, brands should contact chemical suppliers as inquire whether
their short-chain fluorinated chemistries can meet their defined performance
attributes and requirements.
(v) Collect environmental and health data on the repellent chemistries from
chemical suppliers and assess the potential environmental and health
impacts
For chemical suppliers who consent that their short-chain fluorinated DWR
chemistries meet brands requirements, they should be made to provide data
on their chemistries in order for brands to conduct appropriate hazard and risk
assessments. Data that chemical suppliers provide should include data on
raw materials and by-products. As mentioned above, it is likely that a
comprehensive list of hazard endpoints would not be available. Persistence,
bioaccumulative potential and toxicity can be used as the criteria to assess
the impact of the alternative chemistries.
(vi) For chemistries meeting desired environmental and health standard, conduct
pilot test of evaluate the performance using current practices and processes
Conducting a pilot test on the short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries would

help brands distinguish between feasible short-chain fluorinated chemistries
from non-feasible ones for their product groups requiring DWR finishes. The
test should be conducted using current practices and processes in facilities
where DWR finishes are applied to fabrics, as this will ensure that the short-
chain fluorinated DWR finishes can be successfully implemented. Other
processes such as taping, printing, etc. should also be manufactured and
tested to ensure that they are functional after application of DWR finishes.
Brands may also inquire from their suppliers whether they can switch to
alternative chemistries. The supplier of the alternative chemistry should
provide support on-site in switching to alternative chemistries.
9.2 Some practical steps for moving from short-chain to non-fluorinated DWR
chemistries
Some of the practical steps to address in follow up research projects to move from
short-chain to non-fluorinated DWR chemistries are identical to the steps involved in
moving from long-chain to short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries. Nonetheless, these
steps are only applicable to textile product groups that require water repellency in the
case of non-fluorinated DWR chemistries. Since there appears to be no non-fluorinated
28
chemistry that provides oil repellency and stain release attributes, fluorinated DWR
chemistries may be the ideal chemistry to achieve these attributes on textile products.
The move from short-chain to non-fluorinated DWR chemistries must commence with
research and development efforts by chemical suppliers to identify chemistries with the
potential to provide all the required fabric attributes associated with fluorinated DWR
chemistries and at the preferred performance levels on fabrics.
10. Conclusion
Durable water repellents containing short-chain perfluoroalkyl functionality are currently

promoted as viable alternatives to long-chain perfluoroalkyl functionality. Nonetheless,
short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries are known to be less effective in providing
desired fabric performance attributes. In less critical applications, comparable
performance levels to long-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries can be achieved by
higher repellent application levels of short-chain fluorinated chemistries. With respect to
critical applications, fabric performance levels are not yet achievable with short-chain
fluorinated DWR chemistries. Although the desired performance levels for some
application may be eventually achieved, there are other application for which short-
chain chemistries may never be able to meet performance requirements.
Short-chain fluorinated chemistries are promoted as having favorable health and

environmental properties. They are known to be less toxic and have low
bioaccumulative potential. They are, nonetheless, associated with substances that may
be of concern, particularly in cases where their use can result in widespread dispersion
in aquatic environments. For some commercially available short-chain fluorinated DWR
chemistries, there may be lack of enough data to allow for an assessment of their health
and environmental impacts. Brands should set strong requirements for chemical hazard
data for short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries that are identified as potential
alternatives to long-chain fluorinated chemistries. The overall risk associated with short-
chain fluorinated chemistries should be taken into account, as this would provide a
better understanding of the true impacts of these DWR chemistries.

process that requires an in-depth research in order to realize opportunities that exist
and make an informed decision about when a move to short-chain fluorinated DWR
chemistries can occur. Future research projects on this subject should consider, among
other practical steps for moving from long-chain fluorinated chemistries, the overall risk
and socio-economic impact associated with short-chain fluorinated chemistries. With
respect to other practical steps, brands should initially identify their products that are
treated with DWR finishes and be familiar with products performance attributes and
requirements. Brands should then reach out to chemical suppliers with short-chain
fluorinated DWR chemistries that can be used to achieve performance attributes and
requirements. It is critical that the short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries supplied by
chemical producers, including their raw materials and by-products, are evaluated for
their human health and environmental impacts. This will ensure that potential
29
substitutes are not associated with substances having comparable health and
environmental impacts as long-chain fluorinated chemistries. The short-chain fluorinated
DWR chemistries that brands conclude to have favorable health and environmental
impacts and chemical suppliers consent meet performance attributes and requirements
should be pilot tested on products to guarantee that fabrics attributes and performance
requirements can indeed be met.
The move from fluorinated to non-fluorinated DWR chemistries is much more

challenging and one that also require an in-depth research to realize the practical
application of non-fluorinated DWR finishes on textile products. Research and
development efforts are also needed to make certain that non-fluorinated chemistries
can provide the desired fabric attributes as well as meet their defined performance
requirements. Presently, commercially available non-fluorinated chemistries do not
provide oil repellent and stain release attributes on fabrics. These attributes, in addition
to several others, are demanded for certain product groups by their end users.
30
11. Appendices
31
Appendix A: fabric types, end uses and performance requirements
(Developed by ZDHC, OIA, EOG Project Team)
Perform
Perform-
-ance
ance Perform-
Types of require- Wash Test EN & ISO
Fabric Fiber type Weave Weight End Use require- Durability ance Notes
product ment methods* Methods Equivalents
ment as benefit
after
delivered
wash
WOVENS
ISO Water
AATCC 22 4920:2012 repellency, In some cases, not all
jeans, normal AATCC ISO oil 3 performance
cotton, Truckers 80 70 20 wash cycle. 40 C. 118 14419:2010 repellency, benefits are tested.
Lightweight cotton/ jackets, 6 to 11 4.0 3.5 and dry Tumble dry AATCC ISO stain Depends on product
denim. spandex Twills denim shirts oz/ sqyd Casual 5 3 cycles med 130 22958:2005 release and Brand.
Heavy ISO Water
weight AATCC 22 4920:2012 repellency, In some cases, not all
denim. normal AATCC ISO oil 3 performance
Mostly cotton, jeans, 80 70 20 wash cycle. 40 C. 118 14419:2010 repellency, benefits are tested.
Bottom cotton/ Truckers 11 to 15 4.0 3.5 and dry Tumble dry AATCC ISO stain Depends on product
weight spandex Twills jackets, oz/sqyd Casual 5 3 cycles med 130 22958:2005 release and Brand.
Water
ISO repellency, In some cases, not all
AATCC 22 4920:2012 oil performance benefits
AATCC ISO repellency, are tested. Depends
118 14419:2010 stain on product and Brand.
90 80 normal AATCC ISO release It should be easier to
cotton, 5.0 4.0 20 wash cycle. 40 C. 130 23232:2009 aqueous get higher
Chambray cotton/spa plain 4 to 6 5 3 and dry Tumble dry AATCC ISO liq performance with
casual tops ndex weave shirts oz/sqyd Casual 5 3 cycles med 193 22958:2005 repellency lighter weight fabrics

In some cases, not all

performance benefits
are tested. Depends
Water on product and Brand.
ISO repellency, It should be easier to
AATCC 22 4920:2012 oil get higher
cotton, AATCC ISO repellency, performance with
Lightweight cotton/ 118 14419:2010 stain lighter weight fabrics.
non denim, spandex. twills 90 80 normal AATCC ISO release Note, Dockers
mostly cotton/poly and Pants, 5.0 4.0 20 wash cycle. 40 C. 130 23232:2009 aqueous evaluates AATCC
cotton blends, plain shirts, shorts 4 to 7 5 3 and dry Tumble dry AATCC ISO liq 193, 130 and 118 at
blends polyester weaves jackets oz/sqyd Casual 5 3 cycles med 193 22958:2005 repellency 30 washes
Water
Heavy cotton, AATCC ISO repellency, are tested. Depends
weight non cotton/ 118 14419:2010 stain on product and Brand.
denim, spandex. twills 90 80 normal AATCC ISO release It should be easier to
mostly cotton/poly and 5.0 4.0 20 wash cycle. 40 C. 130 23232:2009 aqueous get higher
cotton blends, plain Pants, 7 to 11 5 3 and dry Tumble dry AATCC ISO liq performance with
blends polyester weaves jackets oz/ sqyd Casual 5 3 cycles med 193 22958:2005 repellency lighter weight fabrics
Very cotton, Performan 20 wash Should this be

lightweight cotton/ plain 150 g/ ce and dry ISO Water "Rainwear" Could this
cotton spandex. weave Jackets sqm Outerwear 90 80 cycles AATCC 22 4920:2012 resistance fit in row 7
plain Performan 20 wash

Lightweight Nylon, weaves, wind wear, 45-80 ce and dry ISO water athletic use - may get
synthetics polyester dobbies rainwear gm/m2 Outerwear 90 80 cycles AATCC 22 4920:2012 repellency washed frequently
twills Board
and shorts, rain 20 wash quick dry
Lightweight Nylon, plain jackets, wind 100-200 and dry ISO (repellenc less washing. Chlorine
synthetics polyester weaves wear gm/m2 swimwear 90 80 cycles AATCC 22 4920:2012 y) resistance
twills Board
and shorts, rain performan 20 wash quick dry less washing. Chlorine
Heavy Nylon, plain jackets, wind 200-300 ce and dry ISO (repellenc resistance. Should we
synthetics polyester weaves wear gm/m2 outerwear 90 80 cycles AATCC 22 4920:2012 y) call this rainwear?
33
2 layer
waterproof
breathable
laminate Performan 20 wash
polyester plain Outerwear 250 ce and dry ISO Water
Wool film weave jackets gm/m2 outerwear 90 80 cycles AATCC 22 4920:2012 proof Taped seams.
Wool,
wool/ twills
polyester, and hand
Wool and wool/ plain 250 wash, lay ISO Water
wool blends cotton weaves outerwear gm/m2 Outerwear 90 80 flat to dry AATCC 23 4920:2012 repellency Minimal washing
Water
twills, 10 wash AATCC ISO repellency, are tested. Depends
herring- and dry 118 14419:2010 stain on product and Brand.
bones 90 80 cycles. delicate AATCC ISO release It should be easier to
and Jackets, Business 5.0 4.0 Should wash. 30 C. 130 23232:2009 aqueous get higher
Tropical plain pants, skirts, casual and 5 3 test dry No tumble AATCC ISO liq performance with
Wool Wool weaves suiting Business 5 3 cleaning dry 193 22958:2005 repellency lighter weight fabrics.
Water
10 wash AATCC ISO repellency, are tested. Depends
and dry 118 14419:2010 stain on product and Brand.
twills 90 80 cycles. AATCC ISO release It should be easier to
Wool, and Jackets, 5.0 4.0 Should 130 23232:2009 aqueous get higher
poly/wool/ plain pants, skirts, 5 3 test dry AATCC ISO liq performance with
Suiting rayon weaves suiting Business 5 3 cleaning 193 22958:2005 repellency lighter weight fabrics.
Outerwear dry clean or water

Leather leather leather jackets , casual no cleaning resistance dry clean only
dry clean only????

twill and 50 (Not required -
Feather and polyester/ plain gm/m2 Water laundering OK) Ultra
Down down weaves jackets (30 d) Outerwear resistance Light
34
Pile fabrics - normal

cotton or cotton and corduroy cycle. 40 C. really hard to get
cotton cotton/ and pants, shirts Tumble dry performance. Is this a
blends polyester velvet jackets Casual 20 washes med not sure valid category for us?
GEAR AND SHOES
wash Spot clean or cold

90-80 cold/line dry ISO Water water rinse, line dry
Very 100-90 2100- 3 wash = 1 cycle AATCC 22 4920:2012 repellency (customer care). Must
Lightweight Nylon, plain 1 - 2.5 Performan 2100-1800 1800 and dry (dry each AATCC ISO Water also pass flammability
Fabrics polyester weaves tents oz/sqyd ce mm H20 mm H20 cycles time) 127 811:1981 resistance requirements.
twills, luggage, ISO Water

and backpacks, 95 wash cold AATCC 22 4920:2012 repellency Spot clean. Heavy
Nylon, plain shoulder 1.5 to 13 Performan 700 mm 5 wash + 5x then line AATCC ISO Water abrasion during use is
Synthetics polyester weaves bags oz/sq yd ce H20 80 1 dry dry 1x 127 811:1981 resistance expected.
Water
Leather Leather Leather shoes repellency
Water
Textile shoes repellency
ISO
Very 0.75 - 95 90 10 wash AATCC 22 4920:2012
Lightweight Nylon, plain sleeping 2.5 Performan 300 mm 300 mm and dry AATCC ISO Water
Fabrics polyester weaves bags oz/sqyd ce H20 H20 cycles 127 811:1981 repellency
KNITS
normal water
Casual to 30 wash cycle. 40 C. repellency,
Pile fabrics - outerwear, Perform- and dry Tumble dry ISO improved difficult to achieve
synthetic pile knits vests ance 80 70 cycles med AATCC 22 4920:2012 dry time performance
normal
Knits casual cotton and cycle. 40 C.
mostly cotton/ Tumble dry AATCC
cotton polyester knit T shirts Casual 5 3 20 washes low 130
Improved
Knits shirts, yoga normal dry time,
performance pants, 20 wash cycle. 40 C. occasional
mostly polyester, jackets, Performan and dry Tumble dry ISO ly water
synthetic nylon knit gloves ce 100 80 cycles low AATCC 22 4920:2012 repellency Frequent washing
35
knit
(hard normal water
Knits face, softshell- 20 wash cycle. 40 C. repellency,
performance Nylon, pile type Performan and dry Tumble dry ISO improved
synthetic polyester back) outerwear ce 95 90 cycles low AATCC 22 4920:2012 dry time
cotton, normal
wool, cycle. 30 C.
polyester, Tumble dry
Sweaters acrylic knit sweaters Casual low
cotton and
cotton/ Casual normal water
polyester jackets, and 30 wash cycle. 40 C. repellency,
and knit, non sweatpants, Performan and dry Tumble dry ISO improved
Fleece polyester woven sweatshirts ce 80 70 cycles med AATCC 22 4920:2012 dry time
36
Appendix B: fabric performance attributes and their applicable test methods
The following lists and provides additional test methods used to evaluate the
performance of DWRs on textile products and their descriptions.
Water repellency
AATCC test method 22-2001: spray test
The spray test method measures the resistance of fabrics to wetting by water. It is
applicable to any textile fabric, but is especially suitable for measuring the water
repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics, particularly on plain woven fabrics. The
test method is not intended for use in predicting the probable rain penetration resistance
of fabrics, since it does not measure the penetration of water through the fabric. For this
test method, water sprayed against the taut surface of a test specimen under controlled
conditions produce a wetted pattern whose size depends on the relative repellency of
the fabric. The wetted pattern on the fabric is compared with a standard chart of fabric
water repellency ratings of 0, 50, 70, 80, 90 and 100. A rating of zero (0) is assigned to
fabrics whose surfaces are completely wetted by water, whereas a rating of 100
corresponds to fabrics with no wetting of water on their surfaces. The results obtained
with this test method depend primarily on the resistance to wetting or water repellency
of fibers, yarns and finish of the fabric, and not upon the construction of the fabric.
Standard spray test ratings

Rating Description
100 No sticking or wetting of upper surface
90 Slight random sticking or wetting of upper surface
80 Wetting of upper surface at spray points
70 Partial wetting of whole of upper surface
50 Complete wetting of whole of upper surface
0 Complete wetting of whole upper and lower surfaces
ISO 9865:1991 (E): textiles - determination of water repellency of fabrics by the

Bundesmann rain-shower test
This method for evaluating the water repellency of textile fabrics involves the mounting
of fabrics on cups and exposing the fabrics to artificial rain shower for a period of ten
minutes under defined conditions. The testing atmosphere must have a relative humidity
and temperature of 65 ±2 % and 20 ±2 °C, respectively. Rain shower equipment, a
clamping device and a centrifuge are employed in the method. The diameter of the each
raindrop produced by the rain shower equipment must be 4 mm and the water flow of
the equipment can be adjusted to ensure that the flow of water per minute is 100 ±5 ml
for a rain shower surface area of 100 cm2. The vertical distance between the raindrop
former and the center of the specimen surface must be 1500mm. Normal tap water with
a temperature of 20 ±3°C can be used for the rain shower but it must be mechanically
filtered to remove coarse contamination. The water repellency of the tested fabric is
evaluated by visual comparison of the specimen at the end of the test with five

reference photographs. Each photograph has a corresponding grade, one through five.
Grade 1 corresponds to the “specimen wet through over complete surface,” whereas
grade 5 corresponds to “fast runoff of small drops.” Mass of the fabric is recorded before
and after artificial rain exposure to determine the percent water absorbed in the fabric.
Also, water is collected in the sample cup that has passed through the fabric and it
volume (mL) and mass (g) recorded.
Water repellency grades

Grade Description
5 Fast runoff of small drops
4 Formation of large drops
3 Drops adhere to parts of the specimen
2 Specimen partly wetted
1 Specimen wet through over complete surface
ISO 4920:2012 – determination of resistance to surface wetting (spray test)
This test method specifies a spray method for determining the resistance of any fabric,
which might or might not have been given a water resistant/repellent finish, to surface
wetting by water. It is not intended for use in predicting the rain-penetration resistance
of fabrics, since it does not measure penetration of water through the fabric.
ISO 23232:2009 – aqueous liquid repellency (water/alcohol solution resistance test)
This test method is used to determine fabrics resistance to aqueous stains. The higher
the aqueous liquid repellency grade, the better the resistance to staining by
water/alcohol-based substances, especially water/alcohol-based liquids. It is not
intended to give an absolute measure of the resistance of fabrics to staining by
water/alcohol-based substances. Other factors, such as the composition and viscosity
of the water/alcohol-based substances, fabric construction, fiber type, dyes and other
finishing agents also influence stain resistance. In addition, it is not intended to estimate
the resistance to penetration of fabrics by water/alcohol-based chemicals. The test
method can also be used for determining if washing and/or dry-cleaning treatments
have any adverse effects on the aqueous liquid repellency characteristics of fabrics.
AATCC test method 193-2007: water/alcohol solution resistance test
This test method can be used to determine the efficacy of a protective finish that is
capable of imparting a low energy surface on all types of fabrics, by evaluating fabrics’
resistance to wetting by a selected series of water/alcohol solutions of different surface
tensions. In performing this test, drops of standard test liquids consisting of a selected
series of water/alcohol solutions with varying surface tensions are placed on the fabric
surface and observed for wetting, wicking and contact angle.
38
Water resistance
AATCC test method 35-2000: rain test
The rain test method measures fabrics resistance to the penetration of water by impact.
Consequently, it can be used to predict the probable rain penetration resistance of
fabrics. It is especially suitable for measuring the penetration resistance of garment
fabrics. In performing this test method, a test specimen backed by a weighed blotting
paper is sprayed with water for 5 minutes under controlled conditions. The blotting
paper is then reweighed to determine the amount of water which has leaked through the
specimen and onto the blotter during the test. Water penetration as indicated by the
increase in mass of the blotting paper during the 5 minutes test period is calculated, and
the average of 3 test specimens is documented. Individual and average values of over 5
grams are reported as 5+ or >5. In contrast to the AATCC test method 22-2001, this test
method provides no rating for the rain penetration resistance of fabrics. It appears that it
is at the discretion of users of this test method to define an amount of leaked water that
will correspond to a high, medium or low rain penetration resistance of fabrics. The
results obtained with this test method depend on the water repellency of the fibers and
yarns, and on the construction of the fabric.
AATCC test method 42-2007: impact penetration test
This test method measures the resistance of fabrics, which may or may not have been
given a water-repellent finish, to the penetration of water by impact. It can, thus be used
to predict the probable resistance of fabrics to rain penetration. In conducting this test, a
volume of water is sprayed against a taut surface of fabrics backed by a weighed blotter
paper. The blotter paper is then reweighed to determine the amount of water
penetrating the fabric. The results obtained with this test method depend on the water
repellency of the fibers and yarns and on the construction of the fabric.
AATCC test method 127-2008: hydrostatic pressure test
This test method measures the resistance of fabrics, which may or may not have been
given a water resistant/repellent finish, to the penetration of water under hydrostatic
pressure. In conducting this test, the surfaces of fabrics are exposed to hydrostatic
pressure at a constant rate until three points of leakage appear on the other surface.
The water resistance of fabrics depends on the repellency of the fibers and yarns, as
well as the fabric construction. The results obtained by this method may not be the
same as the results obtained by AATCC methods for resistance to rain or water spray.
EN 14360:2004 – protective clothing against rain (test method for ready-made

garments)
This test method is a European standard that defines test conditions under which ready-
made garments are exposed to heavy rain. It applies to garments such as jackets,
39
trousers, coats etc. This test method does not apply to the testing of garments for
resistance to other weather conditions such as snow or strong winds.
ISO 22958:2005 – water resistance rain test (exposure to a horizontal water spray)
This test method also measures the resistance of fabrics, which may or may not have
been given a water-resistant/repellent finish, to the penetration of water by impact. It
can be used to predict the probable rain penetration resistance of fabrics. It is especially
suitable for measuring apparel fabrics. Tests may be made at different intensities of
water impact to give a complete picture of the penetration resistance of a single fabric or
combination of fabrics. It is particularly suitable when measuring highly water resistant
fabrics with low amounts of water penetration.
Oil repellency
AATCC test method 118-1997: hydrocarbon resistance test
The hydrocarbon resistance test detects the presence of a fluorochemical finish or other
compounds capable of imparting a low energy surface on all types of fabrics. This test
method evaluates fabrics resistance to wetting to a selected series of liquid
hydrocarbons of varying surface tensions. The method is performed by placing drops of
the standard test liquids on the fabric surface and observing for wetting, wicking and
contact angle. Wetting of the fabric is demonstrated by a darkening of the fabric at the
liquid-fabric interface, wicking and/or loss of contact angle of the drop. Different types of
wetting may be encountered depending on the applied finish, fiber, construction, etc.
and the determination of the end point of wetting can be difficult on certain fabrics. On
black or dark fabrics, wetting can be identified by loss of “sparkle” within the drop. Each
standard test liquid has a corresponding oil repellency grade. The oil repellency grade
of the fabric is the highest numbered test liquid which does not wet the fabric surface,
with the highest achievable grade being 8. A grade of zero (0) is assigned to a fabric
which fails the Kaydol test liquid.
Standard test liquids

AATCC oil repellency grade number Composition
0 None (fails Kaydol)
1 Kaydol
2 65:35 Kaydol:n-hexadecane by volume
3 n-hexadecane
4 n-tetradecane
5 n-dodecane
6 n-decane
7 n-octane
8 n-heptane
ISO 14419:2010 – oil repellency (hydrocarbon resistance test)
40
This test method is used to evaluate fabrics resistance to absorption of a selected

series of liquid hydrocarbons of different surface tensions. Generally, the higher the oil
repellency grade, the better resistance to staining by oily substance, especially liquid oil
substances. This is particularly true when comparing various finishes for a given fabric.
The test method is not intended to give an absolute measure of the resistance of fabrics
to staining by all oily substances. Other factors, such as composition and viscosity of
the oily substances, substrate construction, fiber type, dyes and other finishing agents,
also influence stain resistance. It is also not intended to estimate the resistance to
penetration of fabrics by oil-based chemicals. This test method can also be used in
determining if washing and/or dry cleaning treatments have any adverse effect on the oil
repellency characteristics of fabrics.
Soil release
AATCC test method 130-2000: oily stain release method
The soil release test method is designed to measure the ability of fabrics to release oily
stains during home laundering. For this test method, a stain is applied to a test
specimen and an amount of the staining substance is forced into the fabric. The stained
fabric is then laundered in a prescribed manner and the residual stain is rated on a
scale from 5 to 1 by comparing it to a standard graduated series of stains. A grade of 5
represents the best stain removal and grade 1 the poorest stain removal.
Stain release grades

Grade Description
5 Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 5
Durability
The durability of a DWR finish is measured using applicable test methods after repeated
laundering, dry cleaning and abrasion.
Repeated laundering: The performance of a DWR finishes on fabrics and many other
fabric attributes are influenced by the manner in which fabrics are laundered. Generally,
repeated laundering reduces the performance DWR finishes on fabrics. In other words,
laundering reduces the ability of DWR finishes to repel water, resist water, repel oil and
release stains on fabrics. Although it is designed to evaluate the smoothness of fabrics
after repeated home laundering, the AATCC test method 124-2011 is also the primary
test method employed in evaluating the durability of DWR finishes on fabrics.
AATCC test method 124-2011: smoothness appearance of fabrics after repeated home
laundering
41
This test method is designed to evaluate the smoothness appearance of flat fabric
specimens after repeated home laundering, but it is also used to determine the
durability of finishes applied on fabrics in the textile industry. Fabrics of any
construction, such as woven, knit and non-woven may be evaluated according to this
method. Fabric specimens are subjected to standard home laundering practices. A
choice is provided of hand or machine washing, alternative machine wash cycles and
temperatures, and alternative drying procedures.
Laundering equipment
In using test methods which includes procedures for laundering (e.g. AATCC test
method 124-2011), the AATCC has developed a set of guidelines for all test methods
involving home laundering. These guidelines, AATCC monograph M6 – Standardization
of Home Laundry Test Conditions, specifies the temperature, washing machine
parameters for both top-loading and front-loading washing machines, as well as drying
procedures for laundering.55 The guidelines establish consistent conditions and are
intended to reflect actual consumer practices. Tables I to VI below are the AATCC set of
guidelines.
Table I: Temperature used in top-loading washing machines

Designation Wash temperature Rinse temperature
I Very cold: 16 ± 3°C (60 ± 5°F) <18°C (65°F)
II Cold: 27 ± 3°C (80 ± 5°F) <29°C (85°F)
III Warm: 41 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F) <29°C (85°F)
IV Hot: 49 ± 3°C (120 ± 5°F) <29°C (85°F)
V Very hot: 60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°F) <29°C (85°F)
Table IIA: Top-loading washing machine parameters without load 2011

i ii iii
Cycle Normal Permanent press Delicate
iv
Water level medium 19 ± 1 gal 19 ± 1 gal 19 ± 1 gal
v
Agitation speed 86 ± 2 spm 86 ± 2 spm 27 ± 2 spm
Washing time 16 min 12 min 8.5 min
vi
Spin speed 660 ± 15 rpm 500 ± 15 rpm 500 ± 15 rpm
Final spin time 5 min 5 min 5 min
Table IIB: Top-loading washing machine parameters without load 2009-2010

Agitation speed 179/119 ± 2 spm 179/119 ± 2 spm 119 ± 2 spm
i
Normal cycle is generally the cycle with the highest agitation and spin speed and it is also frequently
designated as “heavy duty” or “ultra clean.”
ii
Permanent press cycle is generally the cycle with the shortest final spin time to minimize wrinkle
formation and it is also frequently designated as “easy care.”
iii
Delicate cycle is generally the cycle with the shortest washing time and it is also frequently designated
as “gentle.”
iv
Water level for washing medium-sized loads
v
spm = strokes per minute
vi
rpm = revolutions per minute
42
12 min total (6 min at step 9 min total (3 min at step

Washing time down agitation) down agitation) 6 min
Table IIC: Top-loading washing machine parameters without load 2000-2008

Washing time 12 min 10 min 8 min
Table IID: Top-loading washing machine parameters without load 1992-1999

Table III: Temperature used in front-loading washing machines

Designation Wash temperature Rinse temperature
I Tap cold Tap cold
II Cold: 20 ± 3°C (68 ± 5°F) 20 ± 3°C (68 ± 5°F)
III Warm: 32 ± 3°C (90 ± 5°F) 20 ± 3°C (68 ± 5°F)
IV Hot: 49 ± 3°C (120 ± 5°F) 20 ± 3°C (68 ± 5°F)
V Very hot: 71 ± 3°C (160 ± 5°F) 20 ± 3°C (68 ± 5°F)
Table IV: Front-loading washing machine parameters

vii
Water level (8lb load) 5.75 ± 1 gal 5.75 ± 1 gal 5.75 ± 1 gal
viii
Soil level Normal Normal Normal
Agitation speed 40 rpm 30 rpm 30 rpm
ix
Number of rinses 2 2 2
Final spin speed 1100 ± 100 rpm 800 ±100 rpm 400 ± 100 rpm
Final spin time 9.5 min 6 min 3 min
vii
Water volume in high efficiency machines is determined by an automatic wash load detection system.
viii
Wash time is dependent on soil level selected. Selecting “heavy” soil level will increase the wash time,
whereas “light” or “extra light” will decrease the wash time.
ix
Most front loading machines have an option to include an extra rinse in addition to the standard
machine setting.
43
Table V: Drying Procedures

Designation Drying Techniques
A Tumble
B Line
C Drip
D Screen
E Flat bed press
Table VI: Tumble drying conditions

Maximum exhaust stack temperature
Drying Designation Cycle x
with loaded dryer
65 ± 6°C (150 ± 10°F) [ 67 ± 6°C (154 ±
A Normal or permanent press 10°F) after 1983]
B Delicate, synthetic, low <60°C (140°F) [<62°C (144°F) after 1983]
Normal and delicate 5 min
Permanent press 10 min
Cool down time
All 10 min after 1983
According to AATCC, washing machines and dryers from Whirlpool, Kenmore, and
Maytag are available that meet the parameters prescribed in its guidelines of laundering
test condition. Below are the washing machines and dryer models from the above
mentioned brands that meet the test conditions:56
Washing machines and dryers meeting standard laundering conditions

Washing Machines Dryers
U.S. models, 60Hz
Whirlpool: WTW4800X Whirlpool: WED5500X; WED5550X; WED5600X
Kenmore: 26-21202; 26-20022; 26-21102 Kenmore: 66002; 68002
Maytag: MVWC200X Maytag: MEDX550X; MEDX600X; MEDX700X
International models, 220V/60Hz
Whirlpool: 4PWTW5905 Whirlpool: 3LWED5500X; 4GWED5500X
International models, 220V/50Hz
Whirlpool: 3XWTW5705; 3LWTW4740YQ;
3DWTW4740YQ; 3LWTW4800YQ;
3SWTW4800YQ; 3LWTW4840YW;
3DWTW4840YW Whirlpool: 3XWED5705; 3XLER5437
Laundry detergents
The purchase of commercial laundry detergents for use in testing labs is a fairly
common practice. This is a result of several factors including the convenience of buying
locally, price and the false assumption that the compositions of the same detergent
x
The temperature of dryer exhaust should be measured at the end of the drying cycle before any cool
down.
44
brand are similar and remain unchanged year after year. Commercial detergent
products are constantly changing and this trend is anticipated to continue due to
availability of and cost of materials, product costs, energy conservation, and
environmental concerns. Commercially purchased detergents that are used in testing
labs may have an effect on test results as they add inconsistencies to test methods. As
such, the AATTCC has developed the AATCC standard reference detergent and
laundry detergents to allow for reliable and consistency in duplication of testing. The
traditionally used detergent, AATCC Standard Reference Detergent 124, was replaced
with a newly formulated 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent powder to be in
agreement with typical commercial detergent products on the market and also tackle the
environmental concerns with the use of phosphates in detergents.57
Laboratory comparisons indicated that the 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent
powder was not significantly different from the traditional standard reference detergent,
except for oily stain removal. The 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent powder
was not as effective in removing oily stains. According to AATCC, comparisons between
the 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent powder and currently marketed
products would likely show differences in washing performance, as will comparisons
among marketed products. In some cases, the difference in washing performance of
currently marketed products may be greater.58
Based on the increased market share of liquid laundry detergents, the AATCC
developed the 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liquid Laundry Detergent to be able to
test products that are relevant to the current laundry market. Contrary to powder
detergents which perform optimally at higher pHs (approximately 10), liquid laundry
detergents perform optimally at pH at about 8.5. Since this pH is closer to neutrality,
liquid laundry detergents tend to be less harsh on fabrics and dyes. With respect to
overall performance and performance on individual stains, the 2003 AATCC Standard
Reference Liquid Laundry Detergent’s stain removal profile has been shown to be
comparable to five nationally marketed liquid laundry detergents.59 AATCC has
approved the addition of the 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liquid Laundry
Detergent as an alternative to 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent powder in
several of its test methods. The AATCC test method 124-2011 (smoothness
appearance of fabrics after repeated home laundering) includes the liquid detergent
option.60 It should be noted that the standard detergent described above is applicable to
the U.S. Different standard detergents are used in Europe and Asia.
There is no prescribed number of laundering cycles that can be used to evaluate the
durability of DWR finishes. Individual brands set their own number of laundering cycles
to evaluate the durability of DWR finishes. The number of laundering cycles depends on
products intended uses and necessary performance levels. It can be as a small as five
laundering cycles from products that require minimal washing. For high performance
applications, the number of laundering cycles may be significantly greater. High
performance products include products finishes that are intended to withstand high
abrasion, strong rain and aggressive stains.
45
ISO method 6330:2012 – domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing
This test method describes home washing and drying procedures for textile testing.
Japanese home laundering method JIS LO217, No. 213
This test method describes Japanese home washing and drying procedures for textile
testing.
Abrasion resistance
Abrasion resistance: No test method was found in the 2002 AATCC Technical Manual
for evaluating DWR resistance to abrasion. The AATCC test method for abrasion
resistance is irrelevant to abrasion resistance of DWR finishes. This is because the test
method, AATCC test method 93-2011, is intended to specifically evaluate the resistance
of the fabric itself to abrasion, not the DWR finishes applied on fabrics.
Breathability
Similar to abrasion resistance, no AATCC test method for air permeability (breathability)
of fabrics was found in the 2002 Technical Manual. Nonetheless, the American Society
for Testing and Materials (ASTM) D737 test method is available to measure the air
breathability of fabrics and it applies to most fabrics.
Other performance attributes
Test methods from both AATCC and ASTM for evaluating DWR effects on fabric color,
weight and feel are not available. Companies may have devised specific procedures to
evaluate these properties on DWR-finished fabrics.
46
Appendix C: human health and environmental hazard criteria
The hazard endpoints listed below are the criteria to be used to assess the human
health and environmental impacts of the raw materials, products and byproducts of the
alternative durable water repellent (DWR) chemicals. The hazard endpoints were
adopted from the U.S. EPA Design for the Environment (DfE) program and the Clean
Production Action Green Screen chemicals alternatives assessment tools.
Human Health Effects (aligned with P07 chemical hazard assessment criteria)
Carcinogenicity
IARC classification
GHS category
Mutagenicity/genotoxicity
GHS category
Reproductive and developmental toxicity
Oral (mg/kg/day)
Dermal (mg/kg/day)
Inhalation – gas/vapor (mg/L/day)
Inhalation – dust/mist/fumes (mg/L/day)
Endocrine Activity
Evidence of endocrine activity
Acute mammalian toxicity
Oral LD50 (mg/kg)

Dermal LD50 (mg/kg)
Inhalation LC50 – gas/vapor (mg/L)
Inhalation LC50 – dust/mist/fumes (mg/L)
Repeated dose systemic toxicity/organ effects
Oral (mg/kg-bw/day)
Dermal (mg/kg-bw/day)
Inhalation – gas/vapor (mg/L/6hr/day)
Inhalation – dust/mist/fumes (mg/L/6hr/day)
Skin sensitization
GHS category
Neurotoxicity
GHS category
47
Respiratory sensitization
GHS category
Irritation/corrosivity
Eye irritation/corrosivity
Skin irritation/corrosivity
Environmental Toxicity and Fate
Acute aquatic toxicity
LC50 or EC50 – fish, daphnia, algae (mg/L)

Chronic aquatic toxicity
LOEC – fish, daphnia, algae (mg/L)
Environmental persistence
Persistence in water, soil or sediment (half-life in

days)
Persistence in air (half-life in days)
Bioaccumulation
Bioaccumulation factor (BAF)

Bioconcentration factor (BCF)
Log BCF/BAF
Sources:
U.S. EPA, Design for the Environment (DfE) Program Alternatives Assessment Criteria for Hazard
Evaluation Version 2.0, August 2011. Available at
http://www.epa.gov/dfe/alternatives_assessment_criteria_for_hazard_eval.pdf
Clean Production Action, Green Screen for Safer Chemicals Version 1.2, January 2012. Available at
http://www.cleanproduction.org/Greenscreen.v1-2.php
48
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52

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November 2012

Durable Water and Soil repellent chemistry in the textile

P05 Water Repellency Project

Version 1.0- P05 Project Team

8.2 Non-fluorinated repellent chemistries ......................................................................................... 25

Short-chain fluorinated chemistries are promoted as having favorable health and

Performance of DWR finishes is a complex property to evaluate since performance is

Information on commercially available non-fluorinated chemistries made available by

Moving from long chain to short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries is a complex

The move from fluorinated to non-fluorinated DWR chemistries is much more

List of key terms and definitions

C4 – a technology or chemistry based on perfluoroalkyl chains with four fluorinated

C6 – a technology or chemistry based on perfluoroalkyl chains with six fluorinated

C8 – technology or chemistry based on perfluoroalkyl chains with eight or more

Fluorinated polymer – a general term used to describe a polymer which has a

Fluorocarbon – an organic compound that contains fluorine.

Fluoropolymer – a fluorinated polymer made by (co) polymerization of monomers that

Homologues – one of a series of compounds, each of which has a structure differing

Long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids – PFCAs with perfluoroalkyl chains lengths C8 and

Perfluorinated chemicals – chemicals in which all carbon-hydrogen bonds in a chain

Perfluoroalkyl/perfluorinated chain – a chain of carbon atoms where all hydrogen has

Perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acid (PFCA) – a generic term used to describe any

Perfluoroalkyl sulfonate (PFSA) – a generic term used to describe any fully

Perfluorobutane sulfonic acid (PFBS, C4F9SO3H or CF3CF2CF2CF2SO3H) – a

Perfluorocarbon – a chemical substance that is comprised of only carbon and fluorine.

Perfluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA, C5F11CO2H) – a chemical containing a five carbon

Perfluorohexane sulfonate (PFHxS, C6F13SO3H) – a chemical containing a six carbon

Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA, C7F15CO2H) – a chemical containing a seven carbon

Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS, C8F17SO3H) – a chemical containing an eight

Precursor – a chemical that can be transformed to produce another chemical.

1.2 Purpose and scope

1. Developed list of major chemical producers (such as Huntsman, DuPont,

ScienceDirect and Wiley InterScience journal databases contain series of scientific

 Journal of Industrial Textiles

a. Obtained access to the journals listed above if subscription is not free.

2.3 Evaluation of alternative DWR technologies and chemistries

The identified alternative (short-chain and non-fluorinated) DWR technologies and

3. Overview of durable water repellent finishes

4. Repellent chemistries for textile applications

4.1 Long-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries

DWR finishes containing long-chain perfluoroalkyl functionality are modified to have a

PFOA Higher homologues Salts Precursors

PFHxS PFOS Higher homologues Salts Precursors

Figure 1: Categories and subcategories of long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs)14

4.1.2 Regulatory and industry initiatives on long-chain perfluoroalkyl acids

The United States Environmental Protection Agency (U.S.EPA) is considering initiating

The Australian National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme

4.2 Other repellent chemistries for textile applications

4.2.1 Short-chain fluorinated repellent chemistries

In less critical applications, the reduced performance levels of short-chain fluorinated

Although short-chain fluorinated DWR chemistries cannot break down in the

4.2.2 Paraffin repellent chemistries

4.2.3 Stearic acid-melamine repellent chemistries

Stearic acid-melamine repellent chemistries are composed of compounds formed by a

An advantage of stearic acid-melamine repellents is that they have increased durability

Stearic acid-melamine repellents can be effectively applied to fabrics by exhaustion

4.2.4 Silicone repellent chemistries

Silicone repellents designed to be durable finishes generally consist of a silanol, a

Silicon repellents offer a high degree of water repellency at relatively low