C&A Chemical Manual

Supplier Quality Manual Chemical Requirements
Contents Contents
Chemical
Requirements
(RSL & MRSL)
Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 1

Contents Contents
CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS – TABLE OF CONTENT

 1. AFIRM Restricted Substance List (AFIRM RSL)  3. Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) Version 1.1 (2015) of the
• Acetophenone and 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol
Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme
• Acidic and Alkaline Substances • Chapter 1 MRSL for Textiles and Coated Fabrics Processing
• Alkylphenols (APs), Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs) including all isomers
• Azo-amines and Arylamine Salts o Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all isomers
• Bisphenols o Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes
• Chlorinated Paraffins o Chlorophenols
• Chlorophenols o Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)
• Chlororganic Carriers o Dyes – Navy Blue Colourant
• Dimethylfumarate o Dyes – Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern
• Dyes (Forbidden and Disperse) o Dyes – Disperse (Sensitising)
• Dyes, Navy Blue o Flame Retardants
• Flame Retardants o Glycols
• Fluorinated Greenhouse Gases o Halogenated Solvents
• Formaldehyde o Organotin Compounds
• Heavy Metals (Extractable and Total Content) o Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
• Monomers o Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
• N-Nitrosamines o Phthalates – including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid
• Organotin Compounds o Total Heavy Metals
• Ortho-phenylphenol o Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)
• Ozone-depleting Substances
• Chapter 2 MRSL for Leather Processing
• Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
• Pesticides, Agricultural
• Phthalates
• Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
• Quinoline
• Solvents / Residuals
• UV Absorbers / Stabilizers
• Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)
 2. Additional C&A Chemical Requirements

• 6.1 Ban of Perfluorinated Compounds (PFCs)
• 6.2 Ban of Polyvinylchloride (PVC)
• 6.3 Heavy Metals for Toys
• 6.4 Total Chromium for Chrome Free Tanned Leather

Contents Contents
1. AFIRM Restricted Substance List

(AFIRM RSL)
Articles produced for C&A must meet all European legal restrictions and as well all C&A chemical
requirements.

Contents Contents
1. AFIRM RSL – ADOPTED BY C&A

1.1 AFIRM RSL Adoption: C&A has adopted the AFIRM RSL and makes it the binding RSL standard for C&A supplies and manufacturers at all levels of the supply chain. The
AFIRM RSL shall be used as a reference for limits and testing methods of restricted substances possibly found in raw materials, semi-finished and finished products. The
AFIRM RSL is stated in this chapter beginning with the next page. Additionally, the AFIRM RSL is available in several languages at: https://www.afirm-group.com/afirm-rsl/
1.2 AFIRM Mission and Vision: AFIRM is the Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management (AFIRM) Working Group, established in 2004. AFIRM’s mission is to
reduce the use and impact of harmful substances in the apparel and footwear supply chain. AFIRM’s purpose is to provide a forum to advance the global management of
restricted substances in apparel and footwear, communicate information about chemical management to the supply chain, discuss concerns, and exchange ideas for
improving chemical management. AFIRM continues to be a recognized global center of excellence, providing resources to enable continuous advancement of chemical
management best practices. AFIRM do this based on transparency, science, and collaboration with relevant industries and experts to build safer and more sustainable
chemistry within the apparel and footwear supply chains. Based on the collaboration efforts of the AFIRM member brands, the AFIRM RSL reduces and aligns the large
number of complicated and sometimes contradictory brand RSLs. The AFIRM RSL provides up-to-date limits based on newest regulations, corresponding test methods, and
potential uses of the chemicals in an easy-to-read format.
1.3 AFIRM Support Tools: Additionally to the AFIRM RSL, AFIRM member brands have produced a comprehensive set of educational documents advising suppliers about
best practices for chemical management.
 1.3.1 AFIRM Chemical Information Sheets:

Each chemical information sheet covers a chemical or class of chemicals, giving an overview of the substance(s), where they are likely to be found in the materials and how to
maintain compliance with the AFIRM RSL. The complete library of chemical information sheets is available on the AFIRM website at https://www.afirm-group.com/chemical-
information-sheets/
 1.3.2 AFIRM Supplier Chemistry Toolkit:

The Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management (AFIRM) Group has developed this Chemistry Toolkit as part of its mission to reduce the use and impact of harmful
substances in the apparel and footwear supply chain.
https://www.afirm-group.com/toolkit/
1.4 C&A Additional Chemical Requirements:

Beside restricted substances of the AFIRM RSL, there are some additional chemical parameters that C&A restricts for its products. These includes restrictions on Per-and
Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs), Polyvinylchloride (PVC), Heavy Metals for Toys and Total Chromium for Chrome free tanned leather, which are stated in more detail in
chapter 6. C&A Additional Chemical Requirements.

Contents Contents
AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL)

CAS No. Substance Limits Potential Uses Suitable Test Method Reporting Limits
Raw Material & Textile Processing for Apparel & Footwear Sample Preparation & Measurement Limits above which test results
Finished Product should be reported
Acetophenone and 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol

98-86-2 Acetophenone Potential breakdown products in EVA foam when using dicumyl Extraction in acetone or methanol
50 ppm each 25 ppm each
617-94-7 2-Phenyl-2-propanol peroxide as a cross-linking agent. GC/MS, sonication for 30 minutes at 60°C
Acidic and alkaline substances
The pH-value is a characteristic number, ranging from pH 1 to pH

14, indirectly showing the content of acidic or alkaline
substances in a product.
Textiles: 4.0 - 7.5 pH-values below 7 indicate sources of acidic substances and Textiles and Artificial leather: EN ISO
Various pH-value values above 7 indicated sources of alkaline substances. To 3071:2006 (KCl Solution) NA
Leather: 3.5 - 7.0 avoid irritation or chemical burns of skin the pH-value of Leather: EN ISO 4045:2018
products shall be in the range of the human skin with ca. pH 5.5.
Limits cited are recommended to comply with all global
regulations for all products.
Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs), including all isomers

Textiles:
Various Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers APEOs can be used as or found in detergents, scouring agents, Extraction: 1 g sample/20 mL THF,
spinning oils, wetting agents, softeners, emulsifying/dispersing sonication for 60 minutes at 70°C
agents for dyes and prints, impregnating agents, de-gumming Measurement: EN ISO 18857-2:2011 (with
for silk production, dyes and pigment preparations, polyester derivatization)
padding and down/feather fillings. Leather: EN ISO 18218-2:2015 Sum of NP & OP:
Total: 100 ppm APs are used as intermediaries in the manufacture of APEOs Polymers: 1 g sample/20 mL THF, 10 ppm
and antioxidants used to protect or stabilize polymers. sonication for 60 minutes at 70°C analysis
Various Octylphenol (OP), mixed isomers
Biodegradation of APEOs into APs is the main source of APs in with LC/MS or LC/MS/MS
the environment. All other materials: 1 g sample/20 mL THF,
APEOs and formulations containing APEOs are prohibited from sonication for 60 minutes at 70°C analysis
use throughout supply chain and manufacturing processes. We
with GC/MS
acknowledge that residual or trace concentrations of APEOs
may still be found at levels exceeding 100 ppm and that more
Various Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEOs) time is necessary for the supply chain to phase them out All materials except leather: EN ISO 18254-
completely. This limit covers EU legislation restricting NPEOs 1:2016, determination of APEO using Sum of NPEO & OPEO:
Total: 100 ppm
effective 3 February 2021 and provides advance warning to LC/MS or LC/MS/MS 20 ppm
Various Octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEOs) suppliers. Leather: EN ISO 18218-1:2015

Contents Contents
AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Azo-amines and Arylamine salts

92-67-1 4-Aminobiphenyl
92-87-5 Benzidine
95-69-2 4-Chloro-o-toluidine
91-59-8 2-Naphthylamine
97-56-3 o-Aminoazotoluene
99-55-8 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene
106-47-8 p-Chloraniline
615-05-4 2,4-Diaminoanisole
101-77-9 4,4’-Diaminodiphenylmethane
91-94-1 3,3’-Dichlorobenzidine
119-90-4 3,3’-Dimethoxybenzidine
119-93-7 3,3’-Dimethylbenzidine
3,3’-dimethyl-4,4’- All materials except leather: EN ISO 14362-
838-88-0 Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that incorporate one or
Diaminodiphenylmethane 1:2017
several azo groups (-N=N-) bound with aromatic compounds.
120-71-8 p-Cresidine Leather: EN ISO 17234-1:2015
20 ppm each Thousands of azo dyes exist, but only those which degrade to
101-14-4 4,4’-Methylen-bis(2-chloraniline) p-Aminoazobenzene: 5 ppm each
form the listed cleavable amines are restricted. Azo dyes that
101-80-4 4,4’-Oxydianiline All materials except leather: EN ISO 14362-
release these amines are regulated and should no longer be
139-65-1 4,4’-Thiodianiline 3:2017
used for dyeing of textiles.
95-53-4 o-Toluidine Leather: EN ISO 17234-2:2011
95-80-7 2,4-Toluylendiamine
137-17-7 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline
95-68-1 2,4 Xylidine
87-62-7 2,6 Xylidine
90-04-0 2-Methoxyaniline (= o-Anisidine)
60-09-3 p-Aminoazobenzene
3165-93-3 4-Chloro-o-toludinium chloride
553-00-4 2-Naphthylammoniumacetate
4-Methoxy-m-phenylene
39156-41-7
diammonium sulphate
2,4,5-Trimethylaniline
21436-97-5
hydrochloride
Bisphenols
Used in the production of epoxy resins, polycarbonate plastics,
flame retardants and PVC. Prohibited from use in food and drink
80-05-7 Bisphenol A (BPA) Total: 1 ppm 1 ppm
containers, and items intended to come into contact with the
mouth. All materials:
Extraction: 1 g sample/20 ml THF,
80-09-1 Bisphenol S (BPS) For informational BPA alternatives with known or suspected similar hazards used sonication for 60 minutes at 60°C analysis
purposes only – testing of with LC/MS
in the production of epoxy resins, polycarbonate plastics, flame
620-92-8 Bisphenol F (BPF) polycarbonate materials 1 ppm each
recommended to assess retardants and PVC. Applicable to food and drink containers,
1478-61-1 Bisphenol AF (BPAF) content levels and items intended to come into contact with oral cavity.

Contents Contents

Chlorinated Paraffins
85535-84- Short-chain chlorinated Paraffins

1000 ppm 100 ppm
8 (SCCP) (C10-C13) All materials:
May be used as softeners, flame retardants or as fat liquoring
Combined CADS / ISO 18219:2015
agents in leather production. Also used as plasticizer in polymer
method V1:06/17 (extraction by ISO 18219
production.
85535-85- Medium-chain chlorinated and analysis by GC-NCI-MS)
1000 ppm 100 ppm
9 Paraffins (MCCP) (C14-C17)
Chlorophenols
15950-66-
2,3,4-Trichlorophenol (TriCP)
0
933-78-8 2,3,5-Trichlorophenol (TriCP) Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds used as
933-75-5 2,3,6-Trichlorophenol (TriCP) preservatives or pesticides. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and
All materials:
95-95-4 2,4,5-Trichlorophenol (TriCP) tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), and trichlorophenols (TriCP) are
1 M KOH extraction, 16 hours at 90°C,
88-06-2 2,4,6-Trichlorophenol (TriCP) 0.5 ppm each sometimes used to prevent mold and kill insects when growing 0.5 ppm each
derivatization and analysis § 64 LFGB B
609-19-8 3,4,5-Trichlorophenol (TriCP) cotton and when storing/transporting fabrics. PCP, TeCP and
82.02-08 or DIN EN ISO 17070:2015
4901-51-3 2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) TriCP can also be used as in can preservatives in print pastes
58-90-2 2,3,4,6-Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) and other chemical mixtures.
935-95-5 2,3,5,6-Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP)
87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP)

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Chlororganic Carriers
95-49-8 2-Chlorotoluene
32768-54-
2,3-Dichlorotoluene
0
95-73-8 2,4-Dichlorotoluene
2077-46-5 2,3,6-Trichlorotoluene
6639-30-1 2,4,5-Trichlorotoluene
76057-12-0 2,3,4,5-Tetrachlorotoluene
875-40-1 2,3,4,6-Tetrachlorotoluene
Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes (chlorinated aromatic
1006-31-1 2,3,5,6- Tetrachlorotoluene
Total: 1 ppm hydrocarbons) can be used as carriers in the dyeing process of 0.2 ppm each
877-11-2 Pentachlorotoluene All materials: DIN 54232:2010
polyester or wool/polyester fibres. They can also be used as
541-73-1 1,3-Dichlorobenzene
solvents.
106-46-7 1,4-Dichlorobenzene
87-61-6 1,2,3-Trichlorobenzene
634-66-2 1,2,3,4-Tetrachlorobenzene
608-93-5 Pentachlorobenzene
118-74-1 Hexachlorobenzene
5216-25-1 p-chlorobenzotrichloride
98-07-7 Benzotrichloride
100-44-7 Benzyl chloride
95-50-1 1,2-Dichlorobenzene 10 ppm 1 ppm

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Dimethylfumarate
DMFu is an anti-mold agent used in sachets in packaging to
624-49-7 Dimethylfumarate (DMFu) 0.1 ppm All materials: CEN ISO/TS 16186:2012 0.05 ppm
prevent the buildup of mold, especially during shipping.
Dyes, Forbidden and Disperse

2475-45-8 C.I. Disperse Blue 1
56524-77-7 C.I. Disperse Blue 35A
56524-76-
C.I. Disperse Blue 35B
6
23355-64-
C.I. Disperse Brown 1
8
2581-69-3 C.I. Disperse Orange 1
730-40-5 C.I. Disperse Orange 3
82-28-0 C.I. Disperse Orange 11 Disperse dyes are a class of water-insoluble dyes that penetrate
12223-33-5 the fibre system of synthetic or manufactured fibres and are
held in place by physical forces without forming chemical bonds.
13301-61-6 C.I. Disperse Orange 37/76/59
50 ppm each Disperse dyes are used in synthetic fiber (e.g., polyester, All materials: DIN 54231:2005 15 ppm each
51811-42-8 acetate, polyamide).
85136-74-9 C.I. Disperse Orange 149 Restricted disperse dyes are suspected of causing allergic
2872-52-8 C.I. Disperse Red 1 reactions and are prohibited from use for dyeing of textiles.
2872-48-2 C.I. Disperse Red 11
119-15-3 C.I. Disperse Yellow 1
54824-37-
C.I. Disperse Yellow 49
2
3761-53-3 C.I. Acid Red 26
569-61-9 C.I. Basic Red 9

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569-64-2
2437-29-8
C.I. Basic Green 4
10309-95-
2
548-62-9 C.I. Basic Violet 3
632-99-5 C.I. Basic Violet 14 Disperse dyes are a class of water-insoluble dyes that penetrate
2580-56-5 C.I. Basic Blue 26 the fiber system of synthetic or manufactured fibres and are
held in place by physical forces without forming chemical bonds.
1937-37-7 C.I. Direct Black 38
50 ppm each Disperse dyes are used in synthetic fiber (e.g., polyester, All materials: DIN 54231:2005 15 ppm each
2602-46-2 C.I. Direct Blue 6 acetate, polyamide).
573-58-0 C.I. Direct Red 28 Restricted disperse dyes are suspected of causing allergic
16071-86-6 C.I. Direct Brown 95 reactions and are prohibited from use for dyeing of textiles.
4-Dimethylaminoazobenzene
60-11-7
(Solvent Yellow 2)
6786-83-0 C.I. Solvent Blue 4
4,4'-bis(dimethylamino)-4''-
561-41-1
(methylamino)trityl alcohol
Dyes, Navy Blue
Component 1:
118685-33-9 Navy blue colourants are regulated and are prohibited from use
C39H23ClCrN7O12S.2Na
50 ppm each for dyeing of textiles. All materials: DIN 54231:2005 15 ppm each
Not Component 2:
(Index 611-070-00-2)
allocated C46H30CrN10O20S2.3Na

Contents Contents

Flame Retardants
Pentabromodiphenyl ether
32534-81-9
(PentaBDE)
32536-52- Octabromodiphenyl ether
0 (OctaBDE)
Decabromodiphenyl ether
1163-19-5
(DecaBDE)
All other Polybrominated diphenyl
Various
ethers (PBDE)
79-94-7 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBP A)
59536-65-1 Polybromobiphenyls (PBB)
Hexabromocyclododecane
3194-55-6
(HBCDD) Flame-retardant chemicals, including the entire class of
10 ppm each All materials: 5 ppm each
2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3- organohalogen flame retardants, should no longer be used.
3296-90-0 EN ISO 17881-1:2016
propanediol (BBMP)
Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl)
13674-87-8
phosphate (TDCPP)
25155-23-1 Trixylyl phosphate (TXP)
Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)
126-72-7
phosphate (TRIS)
Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide)
545-55-1
(TEPA)
Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate
115-96-8
(TCEP)
Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate
5412-25-9
(BDBPP)
Fluorinated Greenhouse Gases
Sample preparation:
See Regulation (EC) No 842/2006 May be used as foam blowing agents, solvents fire retardants, Purge and trap — thermal desorption or
Various 0.1 ppm each 0.1 ppm each
for a complete list. and aerosol propellants and are prohibited from use. SPME
Measurement: GC/MS
Formaldehyde
Used in textiles as an anti-creasing and anti-shrinking agent. It is All materials except leather: JIS L 1041-
also often used in polymeric resins. 1983 A (Japan Law 112) or EN ISO 14184-
Adults and children: 1:2011
Although very rare in apparel & footwear, composite wood
75 ppm Leather: preEN ISO 17226-2:2017 with
50-00-0 Formaldehyde materials, e.g., particle board and plywood, must comply with 16 ppm
Babies: preEN ISO 17226-1:2017 confirmation
existing California and forthcoming US formaldehyde emission method in case of interferences.
16 ppm
requirements (40 CFR 770). Suppliers are advised to refer to Alternatively, preEN ISO 17226-1:2017 can
brand-specific requirements for these materials. be used on its own.

Contents Contents

Heavy Metals
All materials except leather:

Found in or used as a catalyst in polymerisation of polyester,
7440-36-0 Antimony (Sb) Extractable: 30 ppm DIN EN 16711-2:2016 Extractable: 3 ppm
flame retardants, fixing agents, pigments and alloys.
Leather: DIN EN ISO 17072-1:2017
Extractable:
DIN EN 16711-2:2016
Extractable: Arsenic and its compounds can be used in preservatives,
Leather: DIN EN ISO 17072-1:2017 Extractable: 0.1 ppm
7440-38-2 Arsenic (As) 0.2 ppm pesticides and defoliants for cotton, synthetic fibres, paints, inks,
Total: Total: 10 ppm
Total: 100 ppm trims and plastics.
DIN EN 16711-1:2016
Barium and its compounds can be used in pigments for inks, All materials except leather:
Extractable:
7440-39-3 Barium (Ba) plastics, surface coatings, as well as in dyeing, mordant, filler in DIN EN 16711-2:2016 Extractable: 100 ppm
1000 ppm
plastics, textile finish, and leather tanning. Leather: DIN EN ISO 17072-1:2017
Extractable:
DIN EN 16711-2:2016
Extractable: 0.1 Cadmium compounds are used as pigments (especially in red,
7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) ppm orange, yellow and green); as a stabilizer for PVC; and in
Total: Total: 5 ppm
Total: 40 ppm fertilizers, biocides and paints.
DIN EN 16711-1:2016
Extractable: Extractable:
Chromium compounds can be used as dyeing additives, dye-
Textiles: 2 ppm All materials except leather:
7440-47-3 Chromium (Cr) fixing agents, colour fastness, after-treatments, dyes for wool, Extractable: 0.5 ppm
Leather footwear DIN EN 16711-2:2016
silk and polyamide (especially dark shades) and leather tanning.
for babies: 60 ppm Leather: EN ISO 17072-1:2017

DIN EN 16711-2:2016 with EN ISO 17075-
1:2017 if Cr is detected
Leather: EN ISO 17075-1:2017 and
Extractable: Though typically associated with leather tanning, Chromium VI Extractable:
18540-29- EN ISO 17075-2:2017 for confirmation in
Chromium VI Leather: 3 ppm also may be used in the dyeing of wool (after the chroming Leather: 3 ppm
9 case the extract causes interference
Textiles: 1 ppm process). Textiles: 0.5 ppm
Alternatively, EN ISO 17075-2:2017 may
be used on its own. Ageing test: ISO
10195:2018 Method A2 is used at brand
discretion.

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Extractable:
Adults: 4 ppm Cobalt and its compounds can be used in alloys, pigments,
7440-48-4 Cobalt (Co) DIN EN 16711-2:2016 Extractable: 0.5 ppm
Children/babies: dyestuff, and the production of plastic buttons.
1 ppm
Extractable:
Adults: 50 ppm Copper and its compounds can be found in alloys and pigments,
7440-50-8 Copper (Cu) DIN EN 16711-2:2016 Extractable: 5 ppm
Children/babies: and in textiles as an antimicrobial agent.
25 ppm
Extractable:
Extractable: DIN EN 16711-2:2016
Adults and children: Leather: DIN EN ISO 17072-1:2017
May be associated with plastics, paints, inks, pigments and Extractable: 0.1 ppm
7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 1 ppm Total:
surface coatings. Total: 10 ppm
Babies: 0.2 ppm Non-metal: CPSC-CH-E1002-08.3
Total: 90 ppm Metal: CPSC-CH-E1001-08.3
Lead in paint and surface coating: CPSIA
Section 101 16 CFR 1303
Extractable:
DIN EN 16711-2:2016
Extractable: Mercury compounds can be present in pesticides and as
7439-97-6 Mercury (Hg) 0.02 ppm contaminants in caustic soda (NaOH). They may also be used in
Total: Total: 0.1 ppm
Total: 0.5 ppm paints.
DIN EN 16711-1:2016
Extractable: 1 ppm Extractable:
Release (metal All materials except leather:
parts): DIN EN 16711-2:2016
Nickel and its compounds can be used for plating alloys and Leather: DIN EN ISO 17072-1:2017
Prolonged skin Extractable & Release:
7440-02-0 Nickel (Ni) improving corrosion-resistance and hardness of alloys. They can Release:
contact: 0.1 ppm
also occur as impurities in pigments and alloys. EN 12472:2005+ A1:2009 and
0.5 µg/cm²/week
EN 1811:2011+A1:2015
Pierced part: Release (Eyewear Frames):
0.2 µg/cm²/week EN 16128:2015
Extractable: May be found in synthetic fibres, paints, inks, plastics and metal
7782-49-2 Selenium (Se) DIN EN 16711-2:2016 Extractable: 50 ppm
500 ppm trims.

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Monomers
GC/MS Headspace 120°C for 45 minutes;

Styrene is a precursor for polymerization and may be present in -or-
100-42-5 Styrene 500 ppm 50 ppm
various styrene-copolymers like plastic buttons. Extraction in Methanol
GC/MS, sonication for 60 minutes at 60°C
Vinyl Chloride is a precursor for polymerization and may be

75-01-4 Vinyl Chloride 1 ppm present in various PVC materials like prints, coatings, flip flops, EN ISO 6401:2008 1 ppm
and synthetic leather.
N-Nitrosamines
62-75-9 N-nitrosodimethylamine (NDMA)
55-18-5 N-nitrosodiethylamine (NDEA)
621-64-7 N-nitrosodipropylamine (NDPA)
924-16-3 N-nitrosodibutylamine (NDBA) GB/T 24153-2009: determination using
100-75-4 N-nitrosopiperidine (NPIP) GC/MS with LC/MS/MS verification if
930-55-2 N-nitrosopyrrolidine (NPYR) 0.5 ppm each Can be formed as by-product in the production of rubber. positive. Alternatively, LC/MS/MS may be 0.5 ppm each
59-89-2 N-nitrosomorpholine (NMOR) performed on its own.
N-nitroso N-methyl N- prEN 19577:2017
614-00-6
phenylamine (NMPhA)
N-nitroso N-ethyl N-phenylamine
612-64-6
(NEPhA)
Organotin Compounds
Various Dibutyltin (DBT)
Various Dioctyltin (DOT) Class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as butyl and
Various Monobutyltin (MBT) phenyl groups. Organotins are predominantly found in the
Various Tricyclohexyltin (TCyHT) environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also
1 ppm each
Trimethyltin (TMT) be used as biocides (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and All materials:
Various 0.1 ppm each
glue production, and heat stabilizers in plastics/rubber. In CEN ISO/TS 16179: 2012
Various Trioctyltin (TOT)
textiles and apparel, organotins are associated with
Various Tripropyltin (TPT)
plastics/rubber, inks, paints, metallic glitter, polyurethane
Various Tributyltin (TBT)
0.5 ppm each products and heat transfer material.
Various Triphenyltin (TPhT)

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Ortho-phenylphenol
All materials: 1 M KOH extraction, 16 hours

OPP can be used for its preservative properties in leather or as a
90-43-7 Ortho-phenylphenol (OPP) 1000 ppm at 90°C, derivatization and analysis § 64 100 ppm
carrier in dyeing processes.
LFGB B 82.02-08 or DIN EN ISO
17070:2015
Ozone-depleting Substances
Ozone depleting substances have been used as a foaming

See Regulation (EC) No All materials: GC/MS headspace 120°C for
Various 5 ppm agent in PU foams as well as a dry-cleaning agent and are 5 ppm
1005/2009 for a complete list. 45 minutes
prohibited from use.
Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
Perfluorooctane Sulfonate (PFOS)

Various 1 µg/m2 each PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended byproducts in
and related substances
long-chain and short-chain commercial water, oil and stain
repellent agents. PFOA may also be used in polymers like All materials:
1 µg/m2 each
polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). The area-based limit for PFOA prISO FDIS 23702-1:2018
will be superseded by Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1000
Perfluorooctanoic Acid (PFOA) 1 µg/m2 each
Various and removed in 2023.
and its salts 25ppb total
Various PFOA-related substances 1000 ppb total 1000 ppb total
Pesticides, Agricultural
All materials:
ISO 15913/DIN 38407 F2 or
Various See Appendix A for a complete list 0.5 ppm each May be found in natural fibres (primarily cotton). 0.5 ppm each
EPA 8081/EPA 8151A or
BVL L 00.00-34:2010-09

Contents Contents

Phthalates
28553-12-0 Di-iso-nonylphthalate (DINP)
117-84-0 Di-n-octylphthalate (DNOP)
117-81-7 Di(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate (DEHP)
26761-40-
Diisodecylphthalate (DIDP)
0
85-68-7 Butylbenzylphthalate (BBP)
84-74-2 Dibutylphthalate (DBP) Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic Sample preparation for all materials:
84-69-5 Diisobutylphthalate (DIBP) compound commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. CPSC-CH-C1001-09.4
84-75-3 Di-n-hexylphthalate (DnHP) They are sometimes used to facilitate the moulding of plastic by Measurement:
84-66-2 Diethylphthalate (DEP) decreasing its melting temperature. Textile:
Phthalates can be found in: GC-MS, EN ISO 14389:2014
131-11-3 Dimethylphthalate (DMP)
Flexible plastic components (e.g., PVC) (7.1 Calculation based on weight of print
131-18-0 di-n-pentyl phthalate (DPENP) 500 ppm each
Print pastes, 50 ppm each
84-61-7 dicyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) Total: 1000 ppm only; 7.2 Calculation based on weight of
Adhesives,
71888-89-6 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid Plastic buttons, print and textile if print cannot be
117-82-8 Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate Plastic sleevings, removed).
605-50-5 Diisopentyl phthalate (DIPP) Polymeric coatings
131-16-8 Dipropyl phthalate (DPRP) Find more information about additional phthalates on the All materials except textile:
27554-26- REACH SVHC list, which is updated frequently. GC-MS
Diisooctyl phthalate (DIOP)
3
68515-50-4 Diisohexyl phthalate (DIHP)
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-
68515-42-4 C7-11-branched and linear alkyl
esters (DHNUP)
84777-06- 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid

0 Dipentyl ester, branched and linear

Contents Contents

Raw Material & Finished Textile Processing for Apparel & Footwear Sample Preparation & Limits above which test results
Product Measurement should be reported
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)

83-32-9 Acenaphthene
208-96-8 Acenaphthylene
120-12-7 Anthracene PAHs are natural components of crude oil and are common residues
191-24-2 Benzo(g,h,i)perylene from oil refining. PAHs have a characteristic smell similar to that of
86-73-7 Fluorene No
individual car tires or asphalt. Oil residues containing PAHs are added to
206-44-0 Fluoranthene rubber and plastics as a softener or extender and may be found in
restriction
193-39-5 Indeno(1,2,3-cd)pyrene rubber, plastics, lacquers and coatings. PAHs are often found in the
91-20-3 Naphthalene** outsoles of footwear and in printing pastes for screen prints. PAHs
85-01-8 Phenanthrene Total: can be present as impurities in Carbon Black. They also may be All materials:
formed from thermal decomposition of recycled materials during 0.2 ppm each
129-00-0 Pyrene 10 ppm AFPS GS 2014
56-55-3 Benzo(a)anthracene reprocessing
50-32-8 Benzo(a)pyrene 1 ppm each
205-99-2 Benzo(b)fluoranthene **Naphthalene: Dispersing agents for textile dyes may contain high
Child care
192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene articles: residual naphthalene concentrations due to the use of low-quality
205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene 0.5 ppm naphthalene derivatives (e.g., poor-quality naphthalene sulphonate
207-08-9 Benzo(k)fluoranthene each formaldehyde condensation products).
218-01-9 Chrysene
53-70-3 Dibenzo(a,h)anthracene

Contents Contents

Quinoline
91-22-5 Quinoline 50 ppm Found as an impurity in polyester and some dyestuffs. AFPS GS 2014 10 ppm
Solvents / Residuals
DMFa is a solvent used in plastics, rubber, and polyurethane
68-12-2 Dimethylformamide (DMFa) 500 ppm (PU) coating. Water-based PU does not contain DMFa and is
therefore preferable.
75-12-7 Formamide Byproducts in the production of EVA foams.
DMAC is a solvent used in the production of elastane fibres and All materials:
127-19-5 Dimethylacetamide (DMAC) 50 ppm each
sometimes as substitute for DMFa. DIN CEN ISO/TS 16189:2013
1000 ppm Industrial solvent utilized in production of water-based
polyurethanes and other polymeric materials. May also be used
872-50-4 N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP)
for surface treatment of textiles, resins, and metal coated
plastics or as a paint stripper.
UV Absorbers / Stabilizers
3846-71-7 UV 320
PU foam materials such as open cell foams for padding. Used as
3864-99-1 UV 327 DIN EN 62321-6:2016-05 (Extraction in
1000 ppm each UV-absorbers for plastics (PVC, PET, PC, PA, ABS, and other 500 ppm each
25973-55-1 UV 328 THF, analysis by GC/MS)
polymers), rubber, polyurethane.
36437-37-3 UV 350
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)
71-43-2 Benzene 5 ppm
75-15-0 Carbon Disulfide
56-23-5 Carbon tetrachloride
67-66-3 Chloroform
108-94-1 Cyclohexanone
107-06-2 1,2-Dichloroethane These VOCs should not be used in textile auxiliary chemical
75-35-4 1,1-Dichloroethylene preparations. They are also associated with solvent-based
For general VOC screening:
100-41-4 Ethylbenzene processes such as solvent-based polyurethane coatings and
GC/MS headspace 45 minutes at 120°C Benzene: 5 ppm
76-01-7 Pentachloroethane glues/adhesives. They should not be used for any kind of facility
Total: 1000 ppm For DMAC: DIN CEN ISO/TS 16189:2013 Other: 20 ppm each
630-20-6 1,1,1,2- Tetrachloroethane cleaning or spot cleaning.
79-34-5 1,1,2,2- Tetrachloroethane
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene (PER)
108-88-3 Toluene
71-55-6 1,1,1- Trichloroethane
79-00-5 1,1,2- Trichloroethane
79-01-6 Trichloroethylene
1330-20-7 Xylenes (meta-, ortho-, para-)

Contents Contents
APPENDIX A: PESTICIDES, AGRICULTURAL

CAS No. Pesticide Name CAS No. Pesticide Name CAS No. Pesticide Name
2-(2,4,5-trichlorophenoxy) propionic acid, its salts and
93-72-1 115-32-2 Dicofol 10265-92-6 Metamidophos
compounds; 2,4,5-TP
93-76-5 2,4,5-T 141-66-2 Dicrotophos 72-43-5 Methoxychlor
94-75-7 2,4-D 60-57-1 Dieldrine 2385-85-5 Mirex
309-00-2 Aldrine 60-51-5 Dimethoate 6923-22-4 Monocrotophos
86-50-0 Azinophosmethyl 88-85-7 Dinoseb, its salts and acetate 298-00-0 Parathion-methyl
63405-99- DTTB (4, 6-Dichloro-7 (2,4,5-trichloro-phenoxy) -2-
2642-71-9 Azinophosethyl 1825-21-4 Pentachloroanisole
2 Trifluoro methyl benz imidazole)
4824-78-6 Bromophos-ethyl 115-29-7 Endosulfan 7786-34-7 Phosdrin/Mevinphos
2425-06-1 Captafol 959-98-8 Endosulfan I (alpha) 72-56-0 Perthane
63-25-2 Carbaryl 33213-65-9 Endosulfan II (beta) 31218-83-4 Propethamphos
510-15-6 Chlorbenzilat 72-20-8 Endrine 41198-08-7 Profenophos
57-74-9 Chlordane 66230-04-4 Esfenvalerate 13593-03-8 Quinalphos
6164-98-3 Chlordimeform 106-93-4 Ethylendibromid 82-68-8 Quintozene
470-90-6 Chlorfenvinphos 56-38-2 Ethylparathione; Parathion 8001-50-1 Strobane
1897-45-6 Chlorthalonil 51630-58-1 Fenvalerate 297-78-9 Telodrine
Halogenated naphthalenes, including polychlorinated
56-72-4 Coumaphos Various 8001-35-2 Toxaphene
naphthalenes (PCNs)
68359-37-
Cyfluthrin 76-44-8 Heptachlor 731-27-1 Tolylfluanide
5
91465-08-
Cyhalothrin 1024-57-3 Heptachloroepoxide 1582-09-8 Trifluraline
6
52315-07-8 Cypermethrin 319-84-6 a-Hexachlorocyclohexane with and without Lindane
78-48-8 S,S,S-Tributyl phosphorotrithioate (Tribufos) 319-85-7 b-Hexachlorocyclohexane with and without Lindane
52918-63-5 Deltamethrin 319-86-8 g-Hexachlorocyclohexane with and without Lindane
53-19-0 118-74-1 Hexachlorobenzene
DDD
72-54-8 465-73-6 Isodrine
3424-82-6 4234-79-1 Kelevane
DDE
72-55-9 143-50-0 Kepone
50-29-3 58-89-9 Lindane
DDT
789-02-6 121-75-5 Malathione
333-41-5 Diazinone 94-74-6 MCPA
1085-98-9 Dichlofluanide 94-81-5 MCPB
120-36-5 Dichloroprop 93-65-2 Mecoprop

Contents Contents
2. ADDITIONAL C&A CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS

Beside restricted substances of the AFIRM RSL, there are some additional chemical parameters that C&A restricts for its products. These includes restrictions on
Perfluorinated Compounds (PFCs), Polyvinylchloride (PVC), Heavy Metals for toys and Total Chromium for Chrome free tanned leather.
2.1 Ban of Perfluorinated Compounds (PFCs)

C&A has banned the use of PFCs.
PFCs are commonly used in chemicals providing a Water Repellent function (WR) making the surface of a fabric or product water, oil and dirt repellent.
For complete list of substances see Appendix B (No. 1 to 34).
PFCs (No. 1 to 30): Limit value : 1 µg/m2 each, Test method: prISO FDIS 23702-1:2018
PFCs (No.31-34): Limit value: 10 µg/m2 each, Test method: prISO FDIS 23702-1:2018
2.2 Ban of Polyvinylchloride (PVC)

C&A has banned the use of PVC (CAS No. 9002-86-2) in any C&A products.
‘’Beilstein Test’’ method (qualitative analysis) can be used as preliminary test and Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) test method to confirm positive pre-test results.
PVC is a plastic, which is used in a wide range of products including packaging, pipes, electric cables, furniture, household applications and many others.
2.3 Heavy Metals for Toys

For complete list of restricted heavy metals and limit values see Appendix C, Test Method: EN 71-3: 2013+A1:2014
2.4 Total Chromium for Chrome Free Tanned Leather

C&A has committed to only use leather that is tanned using alternative, non-toxic chrome-free methods.
Limit value: 1000 ppm, Reporting Limit: 1 ppm, Test method: EN ISO 17072-2:2011

Contents Contents
APPENDIX B: PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS (PFCs)

No. CAS No. PFC Name
1 335-67-1, various Perfluoro-octanoic acid and it salts (PFOA)
2 various PFOA related substances
3 2795-39-3, 56773-42-3, 1763-23-1, various Perfluoro-octane sulfonic acid (PFOS) and related substances
4 27619-97-2 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-octane sulfonic acid (1H,1H,2H,2H-PFOS)
5 29420-49-3, 375-73-5 Perfluoro-butane sulfonic acid (PFBS)
6 3871-99-6, 355-46-4 Perfluoro-hexane sulfonic acid and salts (PFHxS)
7 375-92-8 Perfluoro-heptane sulfonic acid (PFHpS)
8 335-77-3 Perfluoro-decane sulfonic acid (PFDS)
9 754-91-6 Perfluoro-octane sulphonamide 1H,1H,2H,2H H4PFOS; 6:2 (PFOSA)
10 31506-32-8 N-methylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamide (MeFOSA)
11 4151-50-2 N-ethylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamide (EtFOSA)
12 24448-09-7 2-(N-methylperfluoro-FASE 1- octanesulfonamido)-ethanol (MeFOSA)
13 1691-99-2 2-(N-ethylperfluoro-1-octanesulfonamido)- ethanol (EtFOSA)
14 375-22-4 Perfluoro-butanoic acid (PFBA)
15 2706-90-3 Perfluoro-pentanoic acid (PFPA)
16 307-24-4 Perfluoro-hexanoic acid (PFHxA)
17 375-85-9 Perfluoro-heptanoic acid (PFHpA)
18 375-95-1 Perfluoro-nonanoic acid (PFNA)
19 335-76-2 Perfluoro-decanoic acid (PFDA)
20 4234-23-5, 2058-94-8 Perfluoro-undecanoic acid (PFUnA)
21 307-55-1 Perfluoro-dodecanoic acid (PFDOA)
22 72629-94-8 Perfluoro-tridecanoic acid (PFTrA)
23 376-06-7 Perfluoro-tetradecanoic acid (PFTeA)
24 172155-07-6 Perfluoro-3,7-dimethyl-octanoic acid (PF-3,7-DMOA)
25 1546-95-8 7H-Dodecanefluoro-heptanoic acid (HPFHpA)
26 27854-31-5 2H,2H-Perfluoro-decanoic acid (H2PFDA)
27 34598-33-9 2H,2H,3H,3H-Perfluoro-undecanoic acid (H4PFUnA)
28 17527-29-6 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-octylacrylate (6:2 FTA)
29 27905-45-9 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro decylacrylate (8:2 FTA)
30 17741-60-5 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-dodecylacrylate (10:2 FTA)
31 2043-47-2 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-hexanol (4:2 FTOH)
32 647-42-7 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-oktanol (6:2 FTOH)
33 678-39-7 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-decanol (8:2 FTOH)
34 865-86-1 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-dodecanol (10:2 FTOH)

Contents Contents
APPENDIX C: HEAVY METALS FOR TOYS
Category I Category II Category III Category I Category II Category III
No. CAS No. Heavy Metal Name

Dry, brittle, powder like Liquid or sticky Scraped-off Dry, brittle, powder like Liquid or sticky Scraped-off
or pliable) or pliable)
Limit [mg/kg] Reporting Limit [mg/kg]
1 7429-90-5 Aluminium (Al) 5625 1406 70000 50 50 50

2 7440-36-0 Antimony (Sb) 45 11.3 560 1 1 10
3 7440-38-2 Arsenic (As) 3.8 0.9 47 0.5 0.5 10
4 7440-39-3 Barium (Ba) 1500 375 18750 50 50 50
5 7440-42-8 Boron (B) 1200 300 15000 50 50 50
6 7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 1.3 0.3 17 0.1 0.1 5
7 7440-47-3 Chromium (III) (CrIII) 37.5 9.4 460 1 1 1
8 18540-29-9 Chromium (VI) (CrVI) 0.02 0.005 0.2 0.018 0.005 0.18
9 7440-48-4 Cobalt (Co) 10.5 2.6 130 0.5 0.5 10
10 7440-50-8 Copper (Cu) 622.5 156 7700 50 50 50
11 7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 2.0 0.5 23 0.5 0.5 10
12 7439-96-5 Manganese (Mg) 1200 300 15000 50 50 50
13 7439-97-6 Mercury (Hg) 7.5 1.9 94 0.5 0.5 10
14 7440-02-0 Nickel (Ni) 75 18.8 930 10 10 10
15 7782-49-2 Selenium (Se) 37.5 9.4 460 5 5 10
16 7440-24-6 Strontium (Sr) 4500 1125 56000 50 50 50
17 7440-31-5 Tin (Sn) 15000 3750 180000 0.36 0.08 4.9
18 Various Organic Tin (Sn) 0.9 0.2 12 -- -- --
19 7440-66-6 Zinc (Zn) 3750 938 46000 50 50 50

Contents Contents
3. MANUFACTURING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE LIST (MRSL) Version 1.1 (2015)

of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme
On the following pages you will find the Manufacturing Restricted Substance List
(MRSL) Version 1.1 from 2015 from the ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous
Chemicals Programme).
This MRSL & Conformance Guidance comprises the same content as the MRSL &
Conformance Guidance available under
http://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/.
Important Note: The ZDHC MRSL Version 2.0 will be released in Q2 2019. To check
your adherence to the latest version of the MRSL, visit
https://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/manufacturing-restricted-
substances-list-mrsl-conformity-guidance/

Contents Contents
Manufacturing Restricted Substances List Version 1.1

Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme
1 Background
The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme has developed a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) for the textile, apparel, and footwear (including leather)
industries (‘Industry”). The ZDHC MRSL addresses hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing and related processes
deep within the value chain – not just those substances that could be present in finished products. In 2014, ZDHC MRSL version 1 was released, along with Chemical
Guidance Sheets. The current version 1.1 was released in December 2015 and added leather. The ZDHC MRSL is a list of chemical substances that should not be intentionally
used by the Industry in the production of products. The ZDHC MRSL applies to chemicals used in facilities that process materials and trim parts for use in the Industry.
Chemicals in the ZDHC MRSL include solvents, cleaners, adhesives, paints, inks, detergents, dyes, colourants, auxiliaries, coatings and finishing agents used during raw
material production, wet-processing, maintenance, wastewater treatment, sanitation and pest control. ZDHC MRSL limits1 apply to substances in commercially available
chemical formulations and not those from earlier stages of chemical synthesis. Now the ZDHC MRSL is being released in a digital format, rather than a static pdf type
document.
2 Purpose
The ZDHC MRSL provides brands and suppliers with a single, harmonised list of chemical substances banned from intentional use during manufacturing and
related processes within the Industry supply chain. The ZDHC MRSL Version 1.1 applies to textiles and leather with separate sections for each material. This
separation accounts for the differences between the creation and processing of these materials used within the Industry and the need to set limits applicable to
each that reflect the functional use of these chemicals. The ZDHC MRSL should be communicated to the value chain suppliers responsible for production and
conversion of raw materials into finished goods including agents, chemical distributors and formulators, as well as facilities (especially cut & sew, wet-
processing, laundries, and tanneries). This is to support our goal of using ZDHC MRSL compliant chemical formulations, ensuring that listed substances are not
present in chemical formulations above established limits.
Notes: 1) The ZDHC MRSL does not replace applicable national environmental or workplace safety restrictions. Worker exposure to chemical substances listed
in this document, along with other hazardous substances, must not exceed occupational exposure limits.
2) Chemical formulations also must comply with all applicable legal restrictions, including any subsequent restrictions that establish stricter limits.
3) The ZDHC MRSL does not replace legal or brand-specific restrictions on hazardous substances in finished products.
3 How the ZDHC MRSL connects to other ZDHC Tools

The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme takes a holistic approach to tackling the issue of hazardous chemicals in the global Industry and its value chain
through input chemical management, process management and verification that banned hazardous chemicals are not present in outputs such as wastewater
and sludge. The ZDHC MRSL is the fundamental backbone and one part of that approach.

Contents Contents
3.1 The ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance

To accelerate the global impact of the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme, 3.4 The ZDHC Gateway – Wastewater Module
ZDHC decided at a very early stage not to start its own certification system The ZDHC Gateway – Wastewater Module is a global web-based platform
for ZDHC MRSL conformant chemistry but instead to leverage existing that is designed to share verified wastewater and sludge test data based on
certification as indicators of ZDHC MRSL conformance. Therefore, in June testing against the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines. It provides suppliers
2017, ZDHC launched the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance (“Guidance”) (manufacturing facilities) with an easy way to disclose secured and verified
which provides chemical distributors and formulators with an indication wastewater and sludge test data to their clients (brands/retailers). With this
system to assess the extent to which a chemical formulation conforms to, in we enable the suppliers to reduce the number of unnecessary duplication on
other words meets, the requirements of the ZDHC MRSL. ZDHC Accepted testing, and instead they could focus on improving the quality of discharge.
Certification Standards for ZDHC MRSL Conformance are listed on the ZDHC
Gateway – Chemical Module, ranging from level 1 to level 3 in accordance
with the system set out in the Guidance. Chemical formulations certified by Definitions
these standards are directly verified and officially ranked within the ZDHC 4.1 Chemical Substance
Gateway – Chemical Module.
A chemical substance is a chemical element and its compounds in the natural
3.2 The ZDHC Gateway – Chemical Module state or obtained by any manufacturing process (REACH, 2014)[1].
A chemical substance is usually identifiable by a single, unique Chemical
The ZDHC Gateway – Chemical Module is an easy to use, web-based Abstracts Service (CAS) number or Colour Index (CI) number. The ZDHC
platform that manufacturing facilities can use to find chemical formulations MRSL will primarily focus on chemical substances listed by CAS number and
that conform to the ZDHC MRSL in accordance with the Guidance. The CI number, but also will include groups of substances for which listing
ZDHC Gateway – Chemical Module lists chemical formulations and their individual substances is not practical.
ZDHC MRSL conformance level, based on ZDHC accepted third-party
product certifications or testing. A high level of conformance (e.g. level 3)
indicates a high level of confidence that the chemical formulation will conform 4.2 Commercial Chemical Formulation
to the ZDHC MRSL. A commercial chemical formulation is usually a proprietary blend of several
chemical substances that is available for purchase from chemical suppliers
3.3 The ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines under their own trade name.
The ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines define a single, unified expectation for

wastewater testing that goes beyond regulatory compliance. Covering not 4.3 Usage Ban
only conventional wastewater parameters, it is also the first guideline to define A usage ban indicates that the ZDHC MRSL-listed chemical substance or
pass and fail criteria for chemical substances. Testing in accordance to the group of substances may not be used to achieve a desired function or effect
ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines helps check whether or not chemical during production of the raw material or product (that is, no intentional use).
substances in the ZDHC MRSL are in fact being used intentionally. This usage ban extends to other uses within a facility like cleaning and
maintenance. Due to the existence of manufacturing impurities in chemical
formulations, a minor or trace amount of the restricted substance is permitted.
Chemical formulations containing restricted substances that exceed limits are
not compliant with the ZDHC MRSL.

Contents Contents
5 ZDHC MRSL Instructions

Group B: Chemical Supplier Formulation Limit
5.1 ZDHC MRSL Chapters Group B substances are restricted to concentration limits in chemical
Chapter 1: ZDHC MRSL for Textiles and Coated Fabrics Processing formulations commercially available from chemical suppliers. These limits
ban intentional use while allowing for reasonable expected manufacturing
This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used during impurities that should be consistently achievable by responsible chemical
the creation and wet processing of textile fibres, and during the creation manufacturers. [3]
and processing of coated fabrics.
Chapter 2: ZDHC MRSL for Natural Leather Processing
This section applies to chemical formulations and substances used
throughout the production of natural leather, from rawhide to finished
leather. [1] “A chemical element and its compounds in the natural state or obtained by any manufacturing
process, including any additive necessary to preserve its stability and any impurity deriving from the
process used, but excluding any solvent which may be separated without affecting the stability of the
substance or changing its composition.”
5.2 ZDHC MRSL Groups http://www.reachonline.eu/REACH/EN/REACH_EN/article3.html. Accessed May 8, 2014.
Group A: Raw Material and Finished Product Supplier Guidance [2] These are alkylphenol ethoxylates/alkylphenols (APEOs/APEs), brominated and chlorinated
flame retardants, chlorinated solvents, chlorobenzenes, chlorophenols, heavy metals, organotin
Group A substances are banned from intentional use in facilities that compounds (e.g., TBT), perfluorinated and polyfluorinated chemicals (PFCs), phthalates (ortho-
process raw materials and manufacture finished products. Please refer to phthalates), short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs) and azo dyes that may release carcinogenic
amines as defined in Annex XVII of REACH.
the AFIRM guidance document for the lowest agreed upon material or
[3] Safety Data Sheets (SDS) only list substances present at concentrations of 1000 ppm or greater.
finished product limits among AFIRM brands: https://www.afirm- Suppliers must communicate with chemical suppliers to ensure MRSL limits are met.
group.com/afirm-rsl/
[4] Note: Threshold Limit values on restricted substances in chemical formulations are in some cases
See brand RSLs for individual requirements. substantially higher than limits on restricted substances in finished products. This is because
restricted substances in finished products are almost always found in smaller concentrations than in
the chemical formulations used to produce them. Chemical formulations are highly concentrated
before being diluted upon application to textiles and other materials.

Supplier Quality Manual Chemical Requirements Important Note: The ZDHC MRSL Version 2.0 will be released in Q2 2019. To check your
Contents Contents adherence to the latest version of the MRSL, visit
https://www.roadmaptozero.com/programme/manufacturing-restricted-substances-list-
mrsl-conformity-guidance/
Chapter 1 MRSL for Textiles and Coated Fabrics Processing
Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all
isomers
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing:
General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals:
APEOs can be used as or found in: detergents, scouring agents, spinning
Liquid chromatography- mass spectrometry (LCMS),
oils, wetting agents, softeners, emulsifier/dispersing agents for dyes and
gas chromatography-mass spectrometry
prints, impregnating agents, de- gumming for silk production, dyes and
(GC-MS)
pigment preparations, polyester padding and down/feather fillings.
Group A: Raw Group B: Chemical

Material and Supplier
Cas No Substance
Finished Product Commercial
Supplier Guidance Formulation Limit
104-40-5
11066-49-2
Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers No intentional use 250 ppm
25154-52-3
84852-15-3
140-66-9
1806-26-4 Octylphenol (OP), mixed isomers No intentional use 250 ppm
27193-28-8
9002-93-1
No intentional use 500 ppm
9036-19-5 Octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEO)
68987-90-6
9016-45-9
26027-38-3
37205-87-1 Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEO) No intentional use 500 ppm
68412-54-4
127087-87-0

Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing: General Techniques for Analysing Chemicals:
Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes (chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons) GC-MS
can be used as carriers in the dyeing process of polyester or
wool/polyester fibres. They can also be used as solvents.

Cas No Substance
95-50-1 1,2-dichlorobenzene No intentional use 1000 ppm
Other isomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta and hexa-
Multiple chlorobenzene and mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
chlorotoluene

Chlorophenols
Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds used as preservatives or GC-MS EN ISO 17070
pesticides. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) have been
used in the past to prevent mould when storing/ transporting, raw hides and
leather. They are now regulated and should not be used.

Cas No Substance
25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) No intentional use Sum = 20 ppm
87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP) No intentional use Sum = 20 ppm
4901-51-3 2,3,4,5-tetrachlorophenol No intentional use Sum = 50 ppm
95-57-8 2-chlorophenol No intentional use Sum = 50 ppm
120-83-2 2,4-dichlorophenol No intentional use Sum = 50 ppm
95-95-4 2,4,5-trichlorophenol No intentional use Sum = 50 ppm

Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)
Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that incorporate one or several azo LC, GC
groups (-N=N-) bound with aromatic compounds. Thousands of azo dyes
exist, but only those that degrade to form the listed cleavable amines are
restricted. Azo dyes that release these amines are regulated and should no
longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

Cas No Substance
101-14-4 4,4’-methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline) No intentional use 150 ppm
101-77-9 4,4’-methylenedianiline No intentional use 150 ppm
101-80-4 4,4’-oxydianiline No intentional use 150 ppm
106-47-8 4-chloroaniline No intentional use 150 ppm
119-90-4 3,3’-dimethoxylbenzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
119-93-7 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
120-71-8 6-methoxy-m-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
137-17-7 2,4,5-trimethylaniline No intentional use 150 ppm
139-65-1 4,4’-thiodianiline No intentional use 150 ppm
60-09-3 4-aminoazobenzene No intentional use 150 ppm
615-05-4 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine No intentional use 150 ppm
838-88-0 4,4’-methylenedi-o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
87-62-7 2,6-xylidine No intentional use 150 ppm
90-04-0 o-anisidine No intentional use 150 ppm
91-59-8 2-naphthylamine No intentional use 150 ppm
91-94-1 3,’3-dichlorobenzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
92-67-1 4-aminodiphenyl No intentional use 150 ppm
Continued on
next page

Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines) - continuing
Cas No Substance
92-87-5 Benzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
95-53-4 o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
95-69-2 4-chloro-o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
95-80-7 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine No intentional use 150 ppm
97-56-3 o-aminoazotoluene No intentional use 150 ppm
99-55-8 5-nitro-o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm

Dyes – Navy Blue Colourant
Navy Blue colourants are regulated and should no longer be used for LC
dyeing of textiles.

Cas No Substance
118685-33-9 Component 1: C39H23ClCrN7O12S·2Na No intentional use 250 ppm
Not Allocated Component 2: C46H30CrN10O20S2·3Na No intentional use 250 ppm

Dyes – Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern
Most of these substances are regulated and should no longer be used for LC
dyeing of textiles.

Cas No Substance
1937-37-7 C.I. Direct Black 38 No intentional use 250 ppm
2602-46-2 C.I. Direct Blue 6 No intentional use 250 ppm
3761-53-3 C.I. Acid Red 26 No intentional use 250 ppm
569-61-9 C.I. Basic Red 9 No intentional use 250 ppm
573-58-0 C.I. Direct Red 28 No intentional use 250 ppm
632-99-5 C.I. Basic Violet 14 No intentional use 250 ppm
2475-45-8 C.I. Disperse Blue 1 No intentional use 250 ppm
2580-56-5 C.I. Basic Blue 26 (with Michler’s Ketone > 0.1%) No intentional use 250 ppm
569-64-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green chloride) No intentional use 250 ppm
2437-29-8 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) No intentional use 250 ppm
10309-95-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green) No intentional use 250 ppm
82-28-0 Disperse Orange 11 No intentional use 250 ppm

Dyes – Disperse (Sensitising)
Disperse dyes are a class of water- insoluble dyes that penetrate the fibre LC
system of synthetic or manufactured fibres and are held in place by
physical forces without forming chemical bonds. Disperse dyes are used in
synthetic fibre (e.g., polyester, acetate, polyamide).
Restricted disperse dyes are suspected of causing allergic reactions and
should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.

Cas No Substance
119-15-3 Disperse Yellow 1 No intentional use 250 ppm
12222-97-8 Disperse Blue 102 No intentional use 250 ppm
13301-61-6 Disperse Orange 37/59/76 No intentional use 250 ppm
23355-64-8 Disperse Brown 1 No intentional use 250 ppm
2872-48-2 Disperse Red 11 No intentional use 250 ppm
Continued on
next page

Dyes – Disperse (Sensitising) - continuing

Cas No Substance

Flame Retardants
Flame retardant chemicals are rarely used to meet flammability GC-MS
requirements in children’s clothing and adult products. They should no
longer be used in apparel and footwear.

Cas No Substance
115-96-8 Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP) No intentional use 250 ppm
1163-19-5 Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) No intentional use 250 ppm
126-72-7 Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) No intentional use 250 ppm
32534-81-9 Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) No intentional use 250 ppm
32536-52-0 Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) No intentional use 250 ppm
5412-25-9 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS) No intentional use 250 ppm
545-55-1 Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide (TEPA) No intentional use 250 ppm
59536-65-1 Polybromobiphenyl (PBB) No intentional use 250 ppm
79-94-7 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) No intentional use 250 ppm
3194-55-6 Hexabromocyclodecane (HBCDD) No intentional use 250 ppm
3296-90-0 2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP) No intentional use 250 ppm
13674-87-8 Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate (TDCP) No intentional use 250 ppm
85535-84-8 Short-chain chlorinated Paraffins (SCCP) (C10-C13) No intentional use 250 ppm

Glycols
In apparel and footwear, glycols have a wide range of uses including as High-performance liquid chromatography
solvents for finishing/cleaning, printing agents, and dissolving and diluting (HPLC), LC- MS
fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in degreasing or cleaning operations).

Cas No Substance
111-96-6 Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether No intentional use 50 ppm
110-80-5 2-ethoxyethanol No intentional use 50 ppm
111-15-9 2-ethoxyethyl acetate No intentional use 50 ppm
110-71-4 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether No intentional use 50 ppm
109-86-4 2-methoxyethanol No intentional use 50 ppm
110-49-6 2-methoxyethylacetate No intentional use 50 ppm
70657-70-4 2-methoxypropylacetate No intentional use 50 ppm
112-49-2 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether No intentional use 50 ppm

Halogenated Solvents
In apparel and footwear, solvents are used as finishing/cleaning and GC-MS
printing agents, for dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in
degreasing or cleaning operations).

Cas No Substance
107-06-2 1,2-dichloroethane No intentional use 5 ppm

75-09-2 Methylene No intentional use 5 ppm
79-01-6 Trichloroethylene No intentional use 40 ppm
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene No intentional use 5 ppm

Organotin Compounds
Organotins are a class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as GC-MS, low resolution mass spectrometry
butyl and phenyl groups. Organotins are predominantly found in the (LRMS)
environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also be used as
biocides (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue production and
heat stabilisers in plastics/rubber. In textiles and apparel, organotins are
associated with plastics/rubber, inks, paints, metallic glitter, polyurethane
products and heat transfer material.

Cas No Substance
Multiple Dibutyltin (DBT) No intentional use 20 ppm

Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-butyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm

GC-MS

Cas No Substance
50-32-8 Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) No intentional use 20 ppm

120-12-7 Anthracene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
129-00-0 Pyrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
191-24-2 Benzo[ghi]perylene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
193-39-5 Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
205-99-2 Benzo[b]fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
206-44-0 Fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
207-08-9 Benzo[k]fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
208-96-8 Acenaphthylene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
218-01-9 Chrysene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
53-70-3 Dibenz[a,h]anthracene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
56-55-3 Benzo[a]anthracene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
83-32-9 Acenaphthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
85-01-8 Phenanthrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
86-73-7 Fluorene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
91-20-3 Naphthalene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm

Durable water, oil and stain repellent finishes and soil release finishes (fluorinated polymers) based on long-chain
technology are banned from intentional use. Long-chain compounds according to the Organisation for Economic Cooperation
and Development (OECD) definition (http://www.oecd.org/ehs/pfc/) are based on long-chain
perfluorocarboxylic acids (C8 and higher) and on long-chain perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (C6 and higher).
The main contaminants of this technology include:
Perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (PFSAs) with carbon chain lengths C6 and higher (e.g., PFOS, perfluorooctane sulfonate)
Perfluorocarboxylic acids with carbon chain lengths C8 and higher (e.g., PFOA, perfluorooctanoic acid)
PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended by-products in long-chain LC-MS

commercial water, oil and stain repellent agents. PFOA also may be in use
for polymers like polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

Cas No Substance
Multiple Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and related substances No intentional use Sum = 2 ppm
Multiple Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related substances No intentional use Sum = 2 ppm

Phthalates - including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid

GC-MS
Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic compounds
commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. They sometimes are
used to facilitate moulding of plastic by decreasing its melting temperature.
Phthalates can be found in:
- Flexible plastic components (e.g., PVC), Print pastes
- Adhesives, Plastic buttons, Plastic sleevings
- Polymeric coatings

Cas No Substance
117-81-7 Di(ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
117-82-8 Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
117-84-0 Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
26761-40-0 Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
28553-12-0 Di-isononyl phthalate (DINP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-75-3 Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-74-2 Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
85-68-7 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-76-4 Dinonyl phthalate (DNP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-66-2 Diethyl phthalate (DEP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
131-16-8 Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-69-5 Di-isobutyl phthalate (DIBP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-61-7 Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
27554-26-3 Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
68515-42-4 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched and linearalkyl esters (DHNUP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
71888-89-6 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8-branched alkyl esters, C7-rich (DIHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm

Total Heavy Metals
Listed metals are banned from intentional use in textile manufacturing/finishing. Additionally, residual traces of
antimony, zinc, copper, nickel, tin, barium, cobalt, iron, manganese, selenium and silver in colourants are expected to
comply with the Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD)
concentration limits (http://www.etad.com/).
Inductively coupled plasma- optical emission
Although typically associated with leather tanning, chromium VI also may
spectrometry (ICP-OES), atomic absorption
be used in the dyeing of wool (after the chroming process).
spectroscopy (AAS)

Cas No Substance
7440-38-2 Arsenic No intentional use 50 ppm

7440-43-9 Cadmium No intentional use 20 ppm (50 ppm for pigments)
7439-97-6 Mercury No intentional use 4 ppm (25 ppm for pigments)
7439-92-1 Lead No intentional use 100 ppm
18540-29-9 Chromium No intentional use 10 ppm

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)
These volatile organic compounds should not be used in textile auxiliary GC-MS
chemical preparations. They are associated with solvent-based processes
like solvent- based polyurethane coatings and glues/adhesives. They
should not be used for any kind of facility cleaning or spot cleaning.

Cas No Substance
71-43-2 Benzene No intentional use 50 ppm

1330-20-7 Xylene No intentional use 500 ppm
95-48-7 o-cresol No intentional use 500 ppm
106-44-5 p-cresol No intentional use 500 ppm
108-39-4 m-cresol No intentional use 500 ppm

Chapter 2 MRSL for Leather Processing
Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs):
including all isomers
APEOs can be used in leather processing or found in a variety of formulations such Liquid chromatography- mass spectrometry (LC-MS),
as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifier/dispersing agents/dedusting agents for gas chromatography-mass spectrometry
dyes and prints, dyes and pigment preparations, degreasing and fur scouring (GC-MS)
agents, fat liquors and greases, finishing agents. NP and OP are not used by the EN ISO 18219-1, EN ISO 18219-2
leather industry, but could be present as contaminates.

Cas No Substance
104-40-5
11066-49-2
Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers No intentional use 250 ppm
25154-52-3
84852-15-3
140-66-9
1806-26-4 Octylphenol (OP), mixed isomers No intentional use 250 ppm
27193-28-8
9002-93-1
No intentional use 500 ppm
9036-19-5 Octylphenol ethoxylates (OPEO)
68987-90-6
9016-45-9
26027-38-3
37205-87-1 Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEO) No intentional use 500 ppm
68412-54-4
127087-87-0

Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes
Chlorobenzenes and chlorotoluenes can be used for degreasing sheep GC-MS
and pig skins. They can also be used as solvents (e.g., in chemical
synthesis).

Cas No Substance
95-50-1 1,2-dichlorobenzene No intentional use 1000 ppm
Other isomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta and hexa-
Multiple chlorobenzene and mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
chlorotoluene

Chlorophenols
Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds used as preservatives or GC-MS EN ISO 17070
pesticides. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) have been
used in the past to prevent mould when storing/ transporting, raw hides and
leather. They are now regulated and should not be used.

Cas No Substance
25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) No intentional use Sum = 20 ppm
87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP) No intentional use Sum = 20 ppm

Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)
Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that incorporate one or several azo groups (-N=N-) LC, GC
bound with aromatic compounds. Thousands of azo dyes exist, but only those that degrade
to form the listed cleavable amines are restricted. Azo dyes that release these amines are
regulated and should no longer be used for dyeing of leather. Restricted amines also may be
present or
Formed during cleavage of unintended impurities in raw materials used for dyestuff
production.
Cas No Substance
101-14-4 4,4’-methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline) No intentional use 150 ppm
101-77-9 4,4’-methylenedianiline No intentional use 150 ppm
101-80-4 4,4’-oxydianiline No intentional use 150 ppm
106-47-8 4-chloroaniline No intentional use 150 ppm
119-90-4 3,3’-dimethoxylbenzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
119-93-7 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
120-71-8 6-methoxy-m-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
137-17-7 2,4,5-trimethylaniline No intentional use 150 ppm
139-65-1 4,4’-thiodianiline No intentional use 150 ppm
60-09-3 4-aminoazobenzene No intentional use 150 ppm
615-05-4 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine No intentional use 150 ppm
838-88-0 4,4’-methylenedi-o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
90-04-0 o-anisidine No intentional use 150 ppm
91-59-8 2-naphthylamine No intentional use 150 ppm
91-94-1 3,’3-dichlorobenzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
92-67-1 4-aminodiphenyl No intentional use 150 ppm
Continued on
next page

Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines) - continuing
Cas No Substance
92-87-5 Benzidine No intentional use 150 ppm
95-53-4 o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
95-69-2 4-chloro-o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm
95-80-7 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine No intentional use 150 ppm
97-56-3 o-aminoazotoluene No intentional use 150 ppm
99-55-8 5-nitro-o-toluidine No intentional use 150 ppm

Dyes – Navy Blue Colourant
Navy Blue colourants are regulated, were not sold commercially, and should not LC (No test reference available)
have been used for dyeing of leather.

Cas No Substance
118685-33-9 Component 1: C39H23ClCrN7O12S·2Na No intentional use 250 ppm
Not Allocated Component 2: C46H30CrN10O20S2·3Na No intentional use 250 ppm

Dyes – Carcinogenic or Equivalent Concern
Most of these substances are regulated in many countries. All should no longer be LC
used for dyeing of leather.

Cas No Substance
1937-37-7 C.I. Direct Black 38 No intentional use 250 ppm
2602-46-2 C.I. Direct Blue 6 No intentional use 250 ppm
3761-53-3 C.I. Acid Red 26 No intentional use 250 ppm
569-61-9 C.I. Basic Red 9 No intentional use 250 ppm
573-58-0 C.I. Direct Red 28 No intentional use 250 ppm
632-99-5 C.I. Basic Violet 14 No intentional use 250 ppm
2580-56-5 C.I. Basic Blue 26 (with Michler’s Ketone > 0.1%) No intentional use 250 ppm
569-64-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green chloride) No intentional use 250 ppm
2437-29-8 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green oxalate) No intentional use 250 ppm
10309-95-2 C.I. Basic Green 4 (malachite green) No intentional use 250 ppm

Dyes – Disperse (Sensitising)
Disperse dyes have no applicability to leather processing.

Cas No Substance
Fat liquoring agents

Short-chain chlorinated paraffins can be found as contaminants within longchain Gas chromatography/ electron capture negative
chlorinated paraffins and sulfo-chlorinated paraffin’s, used as fat ion-mass spectrometry (GC/ECNI-MS)
liquoring agents. EN ISO 18219

Cas No Substance
85535-84-8 Short-chain chlorinated paraffin (C10 – C13) No intentional use 250 ppm

Flame Retardants
Flame retardant chemicals are rarely used to meet flammability GC-MS

requirements in children’s clothing and adult products, but they could be
used in processing leather for technical/ industrial purposes (e.g., drive
belts) and upholstery leather for trains and planes. The mentioned
substances should no longer be used in apparel and footwear.

Cas No Substance
115-96-8 Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP) No intentional use 250 ppm
1163-19-5 Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) No intentional use 250 ppm
126-72-7 Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) No intentional use 250 ppm
32534-81-9 Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE) No intentional use 250 ppm
32536-52-0 Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE) No intentional use 250 ppm
5412-25-9 Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS) No intentional use 250 ppm
545-55-1 Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphine oxide (TEPA) No intentional use 250 ppm
59536-65-1 Polybromobiphenyl (PBB) No intentional use 250 ppm
79-94-7 Tetrabromobisphenol A (TBBPA) No intentional use 250 ppm
3194-55-6 Hexabromocyclodecane (HBCDD) No intentional use 250 ppm
3296-90-0 2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP) No intentional use 250 ppm
13674-87-8 Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl) phosphate (TDCP) No intentional use 250 ppm

Glycols
In apparel and footwear, glycol ethers have a wide range of uses including High-performance liquid chromatography
as solvents for finishing/cleaning, printing agents and dissolving and (HPLC), LC- MS
diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in degreasing or cleaning
operations). Some polar solvents (glycol ethers) are necessary for the use
of water-based leather finishing systems.
The mentioned glycol ethers are classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or
reprotoxic substances and should not be used in processing leather.

Cas No Substance
111-96-6 Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether No intentional use 50 ppm
110-80-5 2-ethoxyethanol No intentional use 50 ppm
111-15-9 2-ethoxyethyl acetate No intentional use 50 ppm
110-71-4 Ethylene glycol dimethyl ether No intentional use 50 ppm
109-86-4 2-methoxyethanol No intentional use 50 ppm
110-49-6 2-methoxyethylacetate No intentional use 50 ppm
112-49-2 Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether No intentional use 50 ppm
70657-70-4 2-methoxypropylacetate No intentional use 1000 ppm

Halogenated Solvents
In apparel and footwear, solvents are used as finishing/cleaning and GC-MS
printing agents, for dissolving and diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g., in
degreasing or cleaning operations).

Cas No Substance
107-06-2 1,2-dichloroethane No intentional use 5 ppm

75-09-2 Methylene No intentional use 5 ppm
79-01-6 Trichloroethylene No intentional use 40 ppm
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene No intentional use 5 ppm

Organotin Compounds
Organotins are a class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as
butyl and phenyl groups. Organotins are predominantly found in the GC-MS, low resolution mass spectrometry
environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also be used as (LRMS)
biocides (e.g., antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue productions and
heat stabilizers in plastics/rubber.
Polyurethane thickeners, which could contain traces of DBT, are commonly
used for viscosity adjustments of leather chemicals formulations.

Cas No Substance
20 ppm
Multiple Dibutyltin (DBT) No intentional use (*EXCEPTION* 100 ppm for polyurethane
based thickeners used at <20% loading)
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-butyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm
Multiple Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives No intentional use 5 ppm

In the leather chemical industry, naphthalene is used as a raw material for GC-MS
manufacture of synthetic tanning agents (syntans) and for manufacture of
active substances in dispersing agents used during leather processing.

Cas No Substance
50-32-8 Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) No intentional use 20 ppm

120-12-7 Anthracene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
129-00-0 Pyrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
191-24-2 Benzo[ghi]perylene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
192-97-2 Benzo[e]pyrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
193-39-5 Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
205-82-3 Benzo[j]fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
205-99-2 Benzo[b]fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
206-44-0 Fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
207-08-9 Benzo[k]fluoranthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
208-96-8 Acenaphthylene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
218-01-9 Chrysene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
53-70-3 Dibenz[a,h]anthracene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
56-55-3 Benzo[a]anthracene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
83-32-9 Acenaphthene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
85-01-8 Phenanthrene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
86-73-7 Fluorene No intentional use Sum = 200 ppm
91-20-3 Naphthalene No intentional use Sum = 300 ppm

Durable water, oil and stain repellent finishes and soil release finishes (fluorinated polymers) based on long-chain
technology are banned from intentional use. Long-chain compounds according to the Organisation for Economic Cooperation
and Development (OECD) definition (http://www.oecd.org/ehs/pfc/) are based on long-chain
perfluorocarboxylic acids (C8 and higher) and on long-chain perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (C6 and higher).
The main contaminants of this technology include:
Perfluoroalkyl sulfonates (PFSAs) with carbon chain lengths C6 and higher (e.g., PFOS, perfluorooctane sulfonate)
Perfluorocarboxylic acids with carbon chain lengths C8 and higher (e.g., PFOA, perfluorooctanoic acid)
PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended by-products in long-chain LC-MS
commercial water, oil and stain repellent agents. PFOA also may be in use
for polymers like polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

Cas No Substance
Multiple Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and related substances No intentional use Sum = 2 ppm
Multiple Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related substances No intentional use Sum = 2 ppm

Phthalates - including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid
Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic compounds GC-MS
commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. They are sometimes
used to facilitate moulding of plastic by decreasing its melting temperature.
Polymeric coatings for leather finishing, dedusting agents in colourants, fat
liquors and greases could be a source for phthalates in formulations for
leather processing.
Cas No Substance
117-81-7 Di(ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
117-82-8 Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
117-84-0 Di-n-octyl phthalate (DNOP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
26761-40-0 Di-iso-decyl phthalate (DIDP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
28553-12-0 Di-isononyl phthalate (DINP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-75-3 Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-74-2 Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
85-68-7 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-76-4 Dinonyl phthalate (DNP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-66-2 Diethyl phthalate (DEP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
131-16-8 Di-n-propyl phthalate (DPRP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-69-5 Di-isobutyl phthalate (DIBP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
84-61-7 Di-cyclohexyl phthalate (DCHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
27554-26-3 Di-iso-octyl phthalate (DIOP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
68515-42-4 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched and linearalkyl esters (DHNUP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm
71888-89-6 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8-branched alkyl esters, C7-rich (DIHP) No intentional use Sum of all phthalates = 250 ppm

Total Heavy Metals
Listed metals are banned from intentional use in textile manufacturing/finishing. Additionally, residual traces of
antimony, zinc, copper, nickel, tin, barium, cobalt, iron, manganese, selenium and silver in colourants are expected to
comply with the Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD)
concentration limits (http://www.etad.com/).
Arsenic and its compounds can be used in some preservatives, pesticides Inductively coupled plasma- optical emission
and defoliants for cotton. It is also associated with synthetic fibres, paints, spectrometry (ICP-OES), atomic absorption
inks, trims and plastics. spectroscopy (AAS)
Arsenic is not a typical residue in leather chemicals. Cr (III) Tanning agents can be monitored for
Cr(VI)
EN ISO 17075 (Current Use) ISO/DIS 19071
(Draft)

Cas No Substance
7440-38-2 Arsenic No intentional use 50 ppm

7440-43-9 Cadmium No intentional use 20 ppm (50 ppm for pigments)
7439-97-6 Mercury No intentional use 4 ppm (25 ppm for pigments)
7439-92-1 Lead No intentional use 100 ppm
18540-29-9 Chromium No intentional use 10 ppm

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)
These volatile organic compounds should not be used in textile auxiliary GC-MS
chemical preparations. They are associated with solvent-based processes
like solvent- based polyurethane coatings and glues/adhesives. They
should not be used for any kind of facility cleaning or spot cleaning.

Cas No Substance
71-43-2 Benzene No intentional use 50 ppm

95-48-7 o-cresol No intentional use 500 ppm
106-44-5 p-cresol No intentional use 500 ppm
108-39-4 m-cresol No intentional use 500 ppm

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Supplier Quality Manual Chemical Requirements

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 1

CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS – TABLE OF CONTENT

 2. Additional C&A Chemical Requirements

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 2

1. AFIRM Restricted Substance List

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 3

1. AFIRM RSL – ADOPTED BY C&A

 1.3.1 AFIRM Chemical Information Sheets:

 1.3.2 AFIRM Supplier Chemistry Toolkit:

1.4 C&A Additional Chemical Requirements:

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 4

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL)

Acetophenone and 2-Phenyl-2-Propanol

Acidic and alkaline substances

The pH-value is a characteristic number, ranging from pH 1 to pH

Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs), including all isomers

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 5

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Azo-amines and Arylamine salts

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 6

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

85535-84- Short-chain chlorinated Paraffins

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 7

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 8

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Dyes, Forbidden and Disperse

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 9

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 10

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 11

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

All materials except leather:

All materials except leather:

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 12

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 13

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

GC/MS Headspace 120°C for 45 minutes;

Vinyl Chloride is a precursor for polymerization and may be

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 14

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

All materials: 1 M KOH extraction, 16 hours

Ozone depleting substances have been used as a foaming

Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)

Perfluorooctane Sulfonate (PFOS)

Various PFOA-related substances 1000 ppb total 1000 ppb total

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 15

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

84777-06- 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 16

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 17

AFIRM RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (AFIRM RSL) continued

Supplier Quality Manual V 03 – Effective date: 1st March 2019 18