Thread

Properties of threads
(i) Leather or its equivalent used in the footwear industry is harsh and strong as
compared to textiles, so we need strong threads to penetrate two or more
layers of leathers.
(ii) Footwear is subject to a lot of flexing in wear; therefore the thread must be
able to take the strain.
(iii) Footwear is exposed to elements of nature, e.g., water, heat, snow etc. that it
must be able to withstand without giving way.
(iv) Should be able to withstand the wear & tear of everyday life.
(v) Footwear is exposed to working environment.
(vi) Footwear must last.

Therefore, above factors must be considered, while selecting the threads for footwear.

Threads Requirement
Following qualities of the thread are required for the footwear manufacturing:
(i) High Strength: Thread should be strong enough so as to be able to
penetrate two or more layers of leather without breaking.
(ii) Stretchiness: Thread should be stretchable enough to withstand all shoe
making operations without breaking but should not stretch too easily.
(iii) Elasticity: Thread should be elastic enough so that the seam can recover
well after stretching and not become loose in wear.
(iv) No shrinkage/expansion when exposed to heat or wet.
(v) High flexibility and resistance to flex cracking.
(vi) Uniform thickness to avoid snagging during stitching.
(vii) Non- slip property to prevent run back.
(viii) Good loop formation property, i.e. properly twisted to avoid missed stitches.
(ix) Good abrasion resistance to withstand rubbing in wear and high speed
stitching.
(x) Resistance to needle heat.
(xi) Resistance to bacteria and mildew.
(xii) Resistance to damage from sunlight.
 (xiii) Color fastness.
(xiv) Ability to take dyes.
(xv) Retain a good appearance in finished seams.
(xvi) Choosing the right thread is very important for thread performance during
sewing because it takes approximately 40 times of flexing for a piece of
thread to form a stitch. The choice depends upon the type of :
(a) Seam,
(b) Material,
(c) Needle, and
(d) Purpose.

Thread Classification and Material

Threads are made from fibers and fibers used to make industrial sewing threads come
from two major sources: fibers could be man- made or natural. The ones used
commonly in shoemaking are:
Natural Fibers
Come from plants and animals and are spun or twisted into yarns. Cotton is the most
common natural fiber used to make thread. Other natural fibers include silk, wool, jute,
ramie, hemp, and linen. Natural fibers are generally not as uniform as synthetic fibers
and are affected by climatic changes.
Synthetic Fibers
Are made from various chemicals or regenerated from cellulose such as wood pulp and
cotton waste. We select our synthetic fibers based on their sewing ability
characteristics, seam performance, ease of dying, colorfastness, and pricing. Examples
are: polyester, nylon, etc.

Thread Twist
Fibers are twisted to make fine yarns/filaments. This twist produces coherence, strength
and flexibility – the essentials of a sewing thread. This twist, which consolidates the
fibers, is the first/singling twist.
This twist is balanced by a reverse twist when two or more yarns are joined together to
form a thread. This is important as otherwise the individual plies would separate while
sewing.
This reverse twist could be either clockwise or anti- clockwise.
Clockwise twist produces a Z-twist and an anti clockwise twist produces S-twist. The
twist of the thread is known by the finishing twist.
  Twist is defined in terms of the no. of twists inserted cm. If the twist is too much,
the thread gets lively and if too less the yarns will open up and fray.
 Which thread to use depends upon the movement of the hook. In the closing
room, all machines have hooks with clockwise movement, so a thread with a
clockwise twist (Z) reaches equilibrium and resists further twisting while S-
twist thread if used will untwist and break.
 Threads are mainly produced in 2 or 3, sometimes 4 ply, i.e., 2, 3 or 4 yarns are
twisted to form 2, 3 or 4 ply thread.
 For heavier threads, these twisted threads are further twisted to form cords but
the important point to remember is that the twist directions reverses every
time. So, 3 S twist yarns will be Z-twisted to form a 3-ply Z-twisted thread.
 The level of the twist would depend upon the fiber.

Thread Construction
Threads can be made from long continuous fibers or staple fibers joined and twisted to
form a yarn. They can be:
(i) Air Entangled Thread: Is made from continuous filaments of polyester that
are entangled as they pass through a high-pressure air jet. This yarn is then
twisted, dyed, and wound on cones with lubricant. Air entangled threads are
used in everything from seaming flags to heavy denim jeans.
(ii) Core Threads: Is made by spinning a wrap of staple cotton or polyester
around a continuous filament of polyester fibers. Afterwards, two or more of
these single yarns are twisted together to form the thread. Core threads
have fuzz on their surface giving them good lubricity characteristics and
also a continuous filament core that contributes to high strength and
durability. When wrapped with a cotton wrap, core threads have very good
needle heat resistance. When wrapped with a polyester wrap, core threads
have excellent chemical resistance and colorfastness.

(iii) Monochord: Is produced from continuous filaments of nylon that have been
bonded together. They have very little twist so that they look like a single cord
of yarn. Because of the way these threads are made, they appear to be flat
and ribbon-like, which provides a high degree of resistance to abrasion.
Monocord threads are exceptionally strong for their size so they are used in
the manufacturing of furniture, shoes, and other heavy-duty applications.
(iv) Monofilament: It is only one filament, which is thick. It is usually transparent.
Normally produced from a single nylon continuous filament resembling
 fishing line. Usually monofilament threads are used because the thread is
translucent and blends in with many colors. Because it has a tendency to be
stiffer than other filament products, it is not recommended for seams that
may lay adjacent to the skin. Also, because it is a single filament, it may
unravel easily if the thread is not locked in the seam adequately.
Monofilament threads have been used in quilting operations on quilts and
bedspreads, as well as, in blind stitch operations on drapery and apparel.
(v) Spun Threads: Is made from cotton or polyester staple fibers that are spun
into single yarns and then two or more of these yarns are plied to make a
sewing thread. Spun threads have fuzz on their surfacing giving them a soft
hand and good lubricity characteristics.
(vi) Textured Thread: Is made from continuous filaments of polyester or nylon
that have been textured by pin, disc, or belt and then heat set to insure
proper bulk retention. Textured polyester is usually manufactured with regular
or mid tenacity, continuous filaments depending on the application. Textured
threads are ideal for over edge, chain stitch, and cover stitch of the finished
seam and offers good seam elasticity. Textured threads are usually less
expensive when compared to other thread types.
(vii) Twisted Multifilament Thread: Is made from continuous filaments of
polyester or nylon that are twisted together into a cohesive bundle and then
plied to make the thread. They are then dyed, stretched, and heat set to
achieve the desired physical characteristics. Twisted Multifilament threads
are available either soft or with an additional bond for better ply security and
abrasion resistance. They are exceptionally strong for their size and they
have excellent resistance and durability. These threads are used for seaming
everything from bathing suits to automobile upholstery.
(viii) Braided Threads: These are plaited threads of polyester or nylon and are
useful for the automatic sewing machines.

Thread Numbering/Sizing System

There are two methods to size a thread:
(i) Fixed Length System: It is the weight in grams of a fixed length of thread,
i.e., numbering by weight. So, the coarser the thread, the higher the number.
This system is used for silks and rayon.
(ii) Fixed Weight System: It is the length in meters of a fixed weight of thread,
i.e., numbering by length. So, the finer the thread, the higher the number.
The threads are classified in to size groups known as ticket number, these
numbers are purely labels and not proper measurement of thread thickness,
 weight or strength.. The threads can also be sized according to its text value,
which is the weight in grams of 1000 meters of the thread.
Thread Consumption
It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so you can:
(i) Estimate the number of cones needed, and
(ii) Calculate the cost of the thread needed to manufacture the finished product.
Thread consumption can be determined in several ways.
To calculate the amount of thread in a seam, you can:
 Measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.
 Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas
based on the thickness of the material and the number of stitches per inch.
 Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.
Formula for thread consumption for a lock stitch machine = {2  (material
thickness + stitch length)  stitches/cm} + 10 – 15% wastage allowance.

Thread Identification
The natural fiber thread will produce a flame and burn slow if exposed to a flame. The
synthetic thread, if exposed to flame, will produce smoke with little flame, the end tends
to form a small ball/knot and it will burn quickly.
The direction of twist can be identified by holding a thread between the thumb and
forefinger of the left hand and with the thumb and forefinger of right hand, twist the
thread towards you. If the thread loosens or unwinds, the thread will be “S” twist if the
thread tightens it will be “Z” twist.

Thread Quality Control

To produce uniform, strong, dyed and lubricated thread of different thick nesses, is a
long process which requires continuous quality control checks, which are:
 Yarn evenness.
 Yarn strength and sizing.
 Twist levels and regularity.
 Plied thread strength and elongation.
 Shade matching.
 Lubrication.
 Finished appearance.
Checklist for Ensuring Against Thread Failure
Continuous and persistent breaking of thread does not always mean that the thread is
faulty. It can be due to many other reasons. Following factors must be taken into
consideration:
 The thread stand must be seated centrally to the guide allowing a smooth pull of
thread.
 The thread packaging must be tight and the spool should not be like the domestic
m/c thread spool, otherwise the thread will get caught and break.
 The tensions discs and check spring must be free from burrs or dirt.
 All the parts involved in the complete passage of the thread must be free from
burrs.
 The needle must be correctly inserted (clearance cut facing the hook).
 The needle and thread must be matching, i.e., the thread size must be in relation
to the needle size.
 The needle must not be damaged or bend.
If, after checking, thread breaking still persists, then the following can be tried :
 Lubricate the top thread via a pad between the take up lever and the needle bar.
(The lubricant must be silicon based).
 Use a one size larger needle.
 Reduce the stitching speed especially on heavy/ difficult materials.
If all above fail, then the thread or material, any one or both, may be faulty and
they should be tested.

1. Write the formula for thread consumption of lock stitch machine.

2. What is fixed weight system?
3. What is Z twist?
4. What is cord?
5. Write the name of natural and synthetic fibers thread.
6. Why twist is required in thread.
7. Which thread twist is used in upper stitching machine?
8. How will you identify the cotton thread?
9. Describe briefly fixed length system.
10. Describe briefly S twist.

Test II: Match the words:- (Total points: 10*1=10)

1. Z twist 1.Coarser the, thread, higher the no.

 2. Fixed length system 2.Produce a flame & burn slow
3. Polyester 3.Plies are further twisted
4. S twist 4.Nylon
5. Cord 5.Comes from plants & animals
6. High abrasive resistance 6.Clockwise
7. Fixed weight system 7.Consolidate the fiber
8. Natural fibers 8.Synthetic thread
9. Cotton thread 9.Finer the thread, higher the no.
10. Twist 10.Anti- clockwise

Information Sheet-2 Re-enforcements

2.4 Introduction
Reinforcements are used to give extra strength to the weaker areas of the shoes, which
are prone to failure. In shoe making reinforcement are small pieces of leather or other
material or tapes which are stitched to the upper between the upper shell and lining
shell to strengthen the points where strain and wear are greatest for example, the top
lines, back seam, Punches and derby stay etc.
Different types of reinforcements are available in percent shapes or tapes and sheets to
suit the different category of footwear. Now days various materials like nylon, Polyester,
Cotton, Paper etc are being used as reinforcement for footwear. Reinforcements are
available in different width and colors and thickness of reinforcement may vary from
0.2mm to 0.5mm. These may be either pressure sensitive or heat sensitive or self-
adhesive and may be woven, non-woven, knitted or braided.
Need of Reinforcement
As the name implies, reinforcements means adding strength or reinforce the material to
which they are attached. Their purpose is as follows:
 Reinforces the material to which it is attached.
 Adds strength to the material, thus ensuring durability.
 Helps in overcoming shoemaking problems by preventing stretching of material.
 Helps in retaining the appearance/ shape of the shoe.
 Enhances the final get up and appearance of the shoe.

Attaching Reinforcements
Adhesive is required to attach the reinforcement. This adhesive may be pre- coated or
applied by hand/ machine at factories.
Pressure Sensitive
These are also pre-coated but combined with a release paper. The liner paper is
removed and the adhesive side is pressed down on the required piece by hand. These
are available in roll or sheet form and are cut to suit the needs.
Applied Adhesive
Usually this is latex and can be applied by spray or roller.
Pre-coated materials have an advantage over the factory-applied adhesives because of:
 Consistency, thereby making the manufacturing process easier as this results in
better bonding.
 On many leathers (esp. sheep and goat), the use of factory applied adhesives
results in the leather becoming “pipe”. This can be avoided by use of a
pre- coated reinforcement with a dis-continuous layer of adhesive.
Choice/Type of Material for Reinforcement Depends upon Many Factors
 Material of upper
 Style of upper
 Possible areas for reinforcement in relation to design and function.
Types of Reinforcements

Based on Construction
Woven Cotton
Woven cotton e.g. Flamelettes or swansdown (interlining/reinforcement) are good for
adding body on light leather or PU coated fabrics, but it is not strong enough.
Woven Nylon
It is stronger but lacks softness, so can cause pipeness and wrinkles during use so, is
not popular for general reinforcements.

Non-woven
Used in reinforcing areas having perforation and straps having raw edges, as it does not
fray.
Knitted Cottons
These are used where a high degree of shape is required as these have greater stretch,
e.g. they are used for uppers where blocking or pre- shaping is required. e.g.: boots.
This is also found suitable for back seam and close seams to obtain high degree of
stretch during lasting pulls.
Acme
Backers are plain flat weave fabric coated on one side with a heat sensitive adhesive. It
is available in different weights and degrees of stretch. They add strength to the
concerned area and pressed under specific temperature.
Based on Application
A. General Reinforcement
Refers to Backers/ Doublers, interlinings, etc. Backing or doubling is the addition of a
tightly woven material to the back of a thin or very stretchy outside component. These
help in:

 Adding body especially on thin, soft leathers or making the thickness of the
component more even when increased overall thickness in the upper is
required, controlling stretch and adding strength.
 Shape retention.
 To improve appearance and wearing qualities.
 To bear the lasting pulls.
Top Line Reinforcements
These are important and a must, since:
 Top line area is always being under stress & strain during lasting, so it may
weaken and d-shape the top line of shoe after un-lasting.
 It may stretch & cause a loose & irregular top line making it baggy. This is called
BOATING of shoes and causes the shoe to slip off while walking.
 To avoid distortion to the shoe.
 It is important for the top line reinforcement to be stitched at the back seam,
otherwise the strain will not be evenly distributed and top line may split.
 Advisable to use an extra reinforcement for extra protection like on a “V” throat
court shoe.

Selection of Reinforcement
Selection of reinforcement for top line depends upon Material of upper, Style of upper
and top line construction.
Style of Upper
Style of upper assumes importance in case of open shoes, especially, ladies court
shoes because, the higher the vamp and quarters, greater will be the strain on the top
line.
Top Line Construction
For Folded Top Lines
It is important to use a narrow (2-3 mm) woven or braided tape. It should be fixed and
set in the center of the folding margin and becomes top edge after folding. For very thin
materials, especially ladies high quality shoes, a thin nylon folding tape is fixed in
between the folded edge to make the top line tight snuggly fit. The tape must be stitched
in during top line stitch (lining stitch) to avoid slippage.

For French Bound

Reinforcement (3 mm) is stitched in, on the reverse side of the upper, while stitching the
binding. Best results are by a pre-coated edge tape. But higher stretch ability can be
obtained from nylon-braided tape.

For U-bound
A light nylon tape, slightly narrower than the U-binding should be used before stitching
it. A secondary top line tape (3 mm strong woven) may be stitched onto the top line
before putting the binding. The reinforcement tape should come under stitch.

Bagged Top Line

Top line should be pre- taped before stitching with the lining. Braided 3-4 mm nylon tape
is used for proper top line shaping and gripping.

B. Local Reinforcements
These are required for vulnerable areas where there is localized weakness or stress
concentration is high. These are applied only to the areas affected. Local reinforcement
is used to strengthen the areas of upper, against a particular risk of failure in
shoemaking or in wear. These are pieces of material with pressure sensitive adhesive
coating for ease of attachment and are available in many shapes and sizes. The only
consideration is that the reinforcement piece must be big enough to cover the
concerned area.
Examples include tight throat curves, stay, perforated uppers, eyelets, saddles and
Derby intacting.
Tight Throat Curves
 For this area, reinforcement should be of the right shape and right size
so it can bear the strain and spread the stress.
 It can be pre-cut to shape and stitched with the top line. For this, high
strength polyesters are good.
 If it is not pre-cut to shape, then 4 cm  2.5 cm piece of reinforcement
could be placed accordingly to the concern area and stitched with the
top line. Non- woven stays are found most suitable for this purpose.
Perforated Uppers
  On uppers that have been perforated (punched), it is usual to put
reinforcement tape behind the holes, which do not lie on top of another
section, e.g. the wing cap punching on the vamp. The reinforcement
must extend at least 1cm beyond the edge of the perforated area. For
this, a lightweight, flexible, non- woven material with, uniform tightness
and bonding is required.
 In perforated upper, resist the temptation to put 3-4 smaller pieces of
reinforcements. One large piece will spread the load and provide a
stronger support. A non- woven material may be used and punched
after applying it.
 The tape serves a number of functions like it makes the upper more
presentable as you cannot see inside the shoe. It restores some of the
water resistance to the upper and reinforces the upper and prevents
distortion of the perforations.
 Particularly with semi- brogue shoe, it is usual to put at least one row of
stitching on each side of the punching. If the tape is stuck on before
stitching- then the stitching passes through the tape to make a stronger
job and holds the tape in position during wear.
 In case of brogue shoe, large backers are used to cover the back of centre
designs punched on toes of vamps.
Stay
 Stay is a piece of non stretchy, thin, strong material which is put in parts
of an upper which are subject to strains since if the upper is not
reinforced in some way, these strains would cause tearing, causing
upper failure.
 To avoid breakage of seams at the top line, use a 15 mm wide stay
extending 1cm on each side and stitch while stitching the top line.
 These stays usually have a thermo- plastic adhesive backing and are
applied by hand, using a domestic iron or in a heated press.
Tabs and saddles
A nylon sheet or tape offers good stitch holding properties. It should be positioned
before stitching and should be of a greater width than the saddle. 3 mm extra at each
end would be enough.
Buckle Straps, Sandals, etc
These are required because very often straps break at featheredge, pullouts from lasted
margin, failure at attachment point of buckle/strap, etc. So the reinforcement to be used
should be having good breaking strength and tightness. Straps less than 10mm in width
must be reinforced. Woven nylon top line tapes are good as they restrict stretch and
distortion. The tape should extend to the full width of the strap and should be low
stretch. For raw edges, non- woven tape should be used to avoid fraying. If
reinforcement is to be applied only where the two straps join and are to be stitched, then
the tape should be 5mm beyond the stitching line. As function straps are subjected to
substantial stresses during wear therefore reinforcement may be necessary to prevent:
 Permanent stretching resulting in loss of fit.
 Tearing or distortion of adjustment in holes.
 Complete break down of the strap
 Detachment from the upper

Eyelets (Lacing Holes, Tie Holes)

 Eyelets are the holes in quarters, latchets or tongues through which a
string, ribbon or thong is passed to hold the shoe on the foot. It is a
small metal disc with hole in the center used to reinforce lace holes. The
holes for lacing are made according to the size of laces.

 When the laces are pulled tight, considerable strain is put in the area of
the eyelets. Also, when blind or invisible eyelets are used, these do not
clench through the upper and lining, but only clench on the lining, all
you see on the outside is a hole punched in the leather.. To give, the
eyelets extra thickness to clench on and support for the facing, an
additional piece of material is often attached to the linings before
eyeleting. For eyelets, it is very important to put reinforcement stays
with high tear strength, good bonding, some plumpness and softness
enough to be perforated. Compressed paper and non- woven polyester
are the best. In case of uncoated stays, brush could be used for the
application of latex or rubber solution. The stay must extend 1cm on all
sides of the eyelets.
Fastenings and Decorative Trims
 Do not have to face high stress but must be held securely. Woven
nylons are good and should be applied before trim attachment, giving
5mm allowance around the trim area.
 For closed seams, the tape must have strong adhesion properties and
must conform easily to curves, esp. on long seams. Light upper
materials need light tapes. Light materials need a low stretch tape.
Knitted nylon tape is required for close seam.
 For lapped seams and blind seams, tape is required only if the
edge/material is very thin and may tear while stitching. The tape must
be very thin- a lightweight nylon tape.
 For French/Silked seam, a strong tape with low side stretch.
  For Welted/Piped seam, bias cotton tapes or polyknit tapes are
required.
 Some Men’s shoes have the quarters joined together with a seam and
dog tail. To prevent the top lines splitting or bursting when the lasts are
removed, a piece of woven fabric adhesive tape is stuck just below the
top line before the quarters are folded (beaded).

C. Indirect Reinforcement
These reinforcement are provided to withstand the stress due to lasting pulls at the
time of lasting, such as
 In the direction of the pincer pull (Lasting pull areas)
 In elastics to prevent excess pull. This reinforcement is removed after lasting.

Type of Upper Material Tape Characteristics

Thickne Strengt Stretch Recover
ss h y
Light leather below 0.8mm Medium High Medium Medium
Same + extra Low Medium High High
reinforcement
Light/ Medium soft Medium High Medium Medium
leathers
Medium leathers 0.8- 1.2 Medium High Low Low
mm
Heavy leathers over 1.2 Medium High Low Low
mm
Vegetable Or semi- Low High Very Low Very Low
chrome leather
Synthetics Low High Very Low Very Low
Leather stripping Medium High Low Low
Leather binding Very High Medium Medium
Low

Materials for Seam Tapes

 Description Properties Applications
Light cotton Medium strength, low Front, back and side
sheeting stretch, high adhesion seams
Medium cotton High strength, low Front, back and side
sheeting stretch, high adhesion seams
Light weight bias Little recovery after Seams on very soft, light
cotton stretching, very uppers- ideal for boots.
conformable
Light weight High stretch with Most seams- especially
polyknit controlled recovery suitable for machine
application.
Heavy weight High strength, Heavy uppers- ideal for
cotton drill resistance to needle open welted and silked
pull seams.
Crepe paper tape Little recovery after Back seams- prevents
stretching adhesive seeping
through.

Materials for Local Reinforcements

Description Properties Applications
Light weight nylon Good stitch tear Tabs, saddles, trims, tops
tape or S/A sheet resistance of back seams, etc.
Medium weight High strength, low Throats, curved or
nylon tape or S/A stretch angular weak parts.
sheet
Heavy weight High strength, high Throats, tabs, saddles,
nylon tape or S/A stitch tear resistance loops, buckles, etc.
sheet
Light non- woven Light weight, very Multiple perforations,
S/A sheet flexible positions requiring non-
fray material.
Heavy non- woven High strength, low Throats, perforations,
S/A sheet stretch good stitch tear high stress points.
resistance, non- fray
edge
Polyester non- Light weight, very high Throats and any high
woven S/A sheet strength, minimum stress points
stretch, and high stitch
 tear resistance.

Materials for Straps and Stripping

Description Coating Applications
Nylon/Cotton coated cut tape 1 side Straps and stripping
Nylon/Cotton coated cut tape 2 sides Straps and stripping
Polyester/Cotton braid Plain Machine made stripping
Polyester/Cotton coated 1 side Narrow straps requiring extra
woven tape strength
Non- woven tape or sheet 1 or 2 Raw edge straps, etc.
side
Nylon cut tape 2 sides Buckle holes in wider straps
Nylon sheet Light 1 side Shaped straps, attachment
Medium 1 side points for straps etc.
Heavy 1 side

1. ---------------------- are used to give extra strength to the weaker areas of the
shoes, which are prone to failure.
2. --------- is a piece of non stretchy, thin, strong material which is put in parts
of an upper which are subject to strains since if the upper is not reinforced in
some way.
3. Now days various materials like nylon, Polyester, -------------, Paper etc are
being used as reinforcement for footwear.
4. Reinforcements are available in different width and colors and thickness of
reinforcement may vary from -----------------------.

Test II: Short answer questions: (Total points:

4*2=8)

1. Describe briefly re-enforcement.

2. What are the purposes of using re-enforcement?
3. Write down about the pressure sensitive re-enforcement.
4. On what factors selection of re-enforcement depends.
THREADS

It is very important for the closing section to have the right threads for proper loop formation.

Main qualities of threads required for footwear are:

1. Strength :-
Thread should be strong enough so as to be able to penetrate two or more layers of leather without
breaking.
2. Stretchiness :-
Thread should be stretchable enough to with stand all shoe making operations without breaking
but should not stretch too easily.
3. Elasticity:-
Thread should be elastic enough so that the seam can recover well after stretching and not
become loose in wear.
4. No shrinkage /expansion when exposed to heat or water.
5. Flexibility and resistance to flex cracking.
6. Uniform thickness to avoid snagging during stitching.
7. Good loop formation property i.e. property twisted to avoid missed stitches.
8. Good abrasion resistance : to withstand rubbing in wear and high speed stitching.
9. Resistance to bacteria.
10. Resistance to needle heat.
11. Resistance to damage from sunlight.
12. Colour fastness.
13. Retain a good appearance in finished seams.
Classification of thread:
Construction of threads
Fibers are twisted together to make yarns/filaments. This twist is called first twist/singling twist.
Two or more yarns are joined together by a reverse twist to form a thread. This is important as
otherwise the individual plies would separate while sewing. This twist could be either clockwise
or anti-clockwise.
Clockwise twist produces a z-twist and an anti-clockwise twist produces s-twist. The twist of the
thread is known by the finishing twist.
 Twist is defined in terms of the no. Of twists inserted/cm. In case of too much twist,
thread gets lively while in case of too less twist, yarns open up and fray.
 In the stitching room, all machines are with clockwise movements of hooks, so necessary
to use z-twist thread in closing room. In case s-twist thread is used it will untwist and
break.
 In case of heavier threads, these twisted threads are further to form cords. It is very
important to remember that with every twist, direction of twist reverses.
Physical properties
Cotton threads

Good sewing performance.

Poor abrasion resistance
High wet shrinkage which may cause seam puckering
Less affected by needle heat.
More stable at higher and dry temperature.
Synthetic threads:
High abrasion resistance
Less shrinkage.
Soften at a temperature of 230 degree celsius
Not much affected by moisture
High tenacity/strength