FABRIC

FORMATION I
DR. JERRY OCHOLA
DEPT. OF MANUFACTURING,
INDUSTRIAL AND TEXTILE ENGG.
MOI UNIVERSITY
Quality Requirements for Yarn
 The yarn must be uniform, clean, and as free from knots as possible.
 The yarn must be sufficiently strong to withstand the stress and friction
of weaving without excessive end breakage,
 Knots should be of standard type and size, enabling them to pass
easily through the heddles and reeds of the loom.
Typical Yarn Faults
Design
Design
Yarn Winding
Clearing
 Yarn from the spinning machine has imperfections in the form of faults
and blemishes which can cause trouble in later processes.
 Thin spots in the yarn are usually weak spots which may break during
weaving causing the loom to be idle until a repair is made.
 The breakage of such a weak spot in a single warp end will bring the
entire loom to a stop even though there may be a thousand or more
perfectly good warp ends in the loom.
 Thus the incidence of thin spots and other blemishes is a very
important matter and it is essential to remove them and replace them
with standard knots.
 The operation of removing these undesirable elements of yarn, called
clearing, is usually carried out during the winding process.
Yarn Winding
Package Build
 In cases where the yarn has to be dyed or otherwise treated between
spinning and weaving.
 It is usually necessary to wind the yarn on a special package to permit
this treatment.
 In the case of dyeing, the package must allow even penetration of dye
so that all parts of the yarn are similarly treated.
 The tube or cone on which the yarn is wound is usually perforated, the
yarn is wound rather less tightly than normal and the build is such as to
create many interstices through which the dye may pass.
Yarn Winding
Package Size
 package size is of great importance and it is usual to wind yarn from
the ring tube to a large creel package in order to improve the efficiency
of warping.
 Also, random replacement of creel packages is avoided since this too
diminishes the efficiency.
Yarn Winding
The requirements for winding may be summarized as follows:
 The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable level.
 The yarn must not be damaged in any way in the winding process.
 The yarn must be wound in such a way as to permit unwinding in the
following processes with a minimum of difficulty at the required speeds.
 The package size, shape, and build must be the most technologically
suitable for the particular end use.
 The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic
requirements.
 The winding operation must be geared to give the best possible
economic performance of the whole process of fabric
Yarn Winding
The requirements for winding may be summarized as follows:
 The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable level.
 The yarn must not be damaged in any way in the winding process.
 The yarn must be wound in such a way as to permit unwinding in the
following processes with a minimum of difficulty at the required speeds.
 The package size, shape, and build must be the most technologically
suitable for the particular end use.
 The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic
requirements.
 The winding operation must be geared to give the best possible
economic performance of the whole process of fabric
Yarn Winding
The Winding Operation
 The normal winding operation consists of
unwinding one package and rewinding onto
another.
 The user may not have a free choice in the sort
of package he unwinds but he does have a
choice when it comes to the package he builds.
 Consequently, it is necessary to consider in
some detail the structures which can be built to
withstand reasonable handling and use.
 winding can be considered under three main
headings:
 unwinding,
 package stability, and
 winding.
Yarn Winding - Unwinding
Side Withdrawal
 when yarn is withdrawn tangentially from a package,
the package must rotate.
 This is called side withdrawal and It occurs when the
package is dragged round by the departing yarn.
 At high speeds, the inertia of the package has to be
considered because any change in operating speed will
cause the yarn (or yarns) to go slack or to suffer
appreciable changes in tension depending on the
magnitude and direction of the speed change.
 At very high speeds the package tries to grow larger
due to the centrifugal forces; for this reason, the layers
of yarn may become loose and slip over one another,
thus impairing the stability of the package.
 Side unwinding, therefore, is usually restricted to low
yarn withdrawal rates and to negative let-off systems.
Yarn Winding - Unwinding
Over-end Withdrawal
 is to take the yarn away along a line which roughly
coincides with the axis of the package.
 Using the technique it is not necessary to rotate the
package; this avoids some of the difficulties associated
with side withdrawal and permits very high rates of yarn
removal.
 Consequently, it is used in circumstances where high
unwinding speeds are required.
 With over-end withdrawal from a stationary package,
there is a change of one turn of twist in the yarn for each
coil removed from the package.
Yarn Winding
The requirements for winding may be summarized as follows:
 The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable level.
 The yarn must not be damaged in any way in the winding process.
 The yarn must be wound in such a way as to permit unwinding in the
following processes with a minimum of difficulty at the required speeds.
 The package size, shape, and build must be the most technologically
suitable for the particular end use.
 The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic
requirements.
 The winding operation must be geared to give the best possible
economic performance of the whole process of fabric
Yarn Winding
Winding Machines - Types
automatic winder
 is commonly defined as a machine in which creeling (including tying)
and knotting of broken ends (which arise due to clearing flaws or to
natural breakages) are automatic but dofing is not necessarily so.
 From this it is evident that knotting is crucial to the operation of an
automatic winder and the knotting device provides a means of
identifying the class of machine.
Manual Machines (non-automatic)
 Characterized by high winding speed, and the reason for this lies in the
economics of winding.
 Non-automatic winders can be operated at any desired speed within
their operating limits.
Yarn Winding
Example
If the machine winds 37 tex (16s cotton count) yarn from 0- 1 kg ring tubes
at 600 m/min on to 2 kg cones, how many spindles will the machine have,
if maximum efficiency is obtained at the maximum knotting rate of 20 per
minute? Each spindle is stopped 0.7 min/cycle for serving and passing the
frame ends. Also calculate the spindle efficiency for 2.5 end breaks per
kilogram. Assume one patrol lost each doffing and each piecing occasion.
Yarn Winding
Warping
The purpose of warping is to arrange a convenient number of warp yarns so that
they can be collected on a single warper’s beam. There are two main types of
warping:
 beam warping / direct warping and
 sectional warping.
Differences:
 The direct or beam warping is suitable only for grey or monocoloured warps that
require sizing.
 It involves only one operation, namely, warping and hence the speed and
production are considerably higher than the sectional warping machine.
 Also the machine is suitable for longer runs as compared with the sectional
warping machine.
 warping machine consists of
 creel,
 headstock and
 control devices.
Warping
Creels
 The creel is a stand for holding the supply packages in the form of wound
packages. It enables to hold the supply packages in proper position for warping,
and constitutes an important component of the warping machine.
 No individual type of creel can be suitable for all types of yarns, counts, set
lengths and different applications. Hence different types of creels are to be used
for different purposes.
 The creels used in warping are of the following types:
 V- creel
 Rectangular creel
 Magazine creels
 Truck creel
 Continuous chain creel
 Automatic creels
Warping
v- creel
 this type of creel is V-shaped. It
consists of wooden pegs
horizontally to hold the supply
package. This is arranged so that
the apex is in line with the centre
of the machine.
 The arm of this V shaped wooden
frame diverges on both sides from
its apex.
 This arrangement enables the
ends to be with drawn easily from
the supply package without
touching or getting entangled with
one another during passing to the
back reed of the head stock of the
machine.
Warping
Rectangular creel
 This creel is rectangular in shape
and hence its name.
 The frames are provided with
pegs to hold supply packages
horizontally.
 The frames can be increased to
accommodate more number of
supply packages and vice versa.
 Each frame consists of thread
guides, indicator lamps It is
mostly used in the slow speed
warping machine.
Warping
Magazine creel
 This type of creel is provided with
arrangements to hold reserve
package.
 The tail end of the running
package is knotted with the
starting end of the reserve
package.
 This enables the continuous
working of machine without
stoppage for replacing the
exhausted package with a new
one.
 The dimension of the creel and
floor space required are
comparatively more than other
types of creel.
 The creel is usually V-shaped.
Warping
Truck creel
 This type of creel system is of varied types. This system utilises 'trucks' or
mobile package carrier units.
 Each unit consists of a number of columns and tiers on either side and can be
inserted on the axis of the creel frame to become a part of the creel.
 The trucks can be creeled at the winding machine and thereby minimize
handling of the supply package, provided there are sufficient number of trucks.
Continuous chain creel
 The creel is in the form of two arms that form an acute angle with each other.
 These carry an endless chain that moves the columns of supply package
holders and tension units into working position. It also moves the exhausted
packages away from working position.
Automatic creel
 This is a more sophisticated type of creel and is currently being used in modern
warping machines.
 It is basically a truck creel with automatic chain loading and unloading and is
designed to reduce the creel change time.
Warping
Beam warping
 is used for long runs of grey fabrics and simple patterns where the
amount of colored yarn involved is less than about 15 per cent of the
total.
 This is sometimes referred to as direct warping.
Warping
Sectional warping
 is used for preparation of multicoloured warps to be woven as striped
of checked design fabrics. It is also used for doubled grey or
monocoloured warps.
 The yarn is wound in sections, each section having a particular width.
Thus the total number of warp ends for the weaver's beam is divided
into suitable number of sections on a warping drum.
 The sections are then combined to form the weaver's beam. Therefore,
there are two distinct operations involved, namely, warping and
beaming.
Warping
Warping
Passage of yarn through the machine
 The supply packages are in the form of cones or cheeses. They are placed on a V shaped
creel or a semi circular creel depending upon whether stop motion is used or not.
 The yarn from the creel passes through the back reed. The reed maintains uniform spacing
of the yarn throughout the width of the warp.
 Then the yarn passes over and under guide and drop rollers. The drop rollers impart tension
to the yarn passing under them and holds the yarn tight when the machine is stopped.
 From there the yarn goes through a stop motion device which stops the machine in the
event of an end breakage in supply package, getting exhausted.
 From the stop motion device the yarn passes through a leasing reed. The use of the reed is
to form an end and end lease at the start and completion of each section.
 The yarn next passes through a V -reed which enables the width of the warp through it to
be adjusted according to the width of the sections to be made.
 Then the yarn passes over a measuring roller and is wound on a wooden block called swift.
After winding the predetermined length of warp, leasing is carried out.
 The sections of threads are continued to the swift in a bunch form. Next, section is wound in
the side of the previous one. The same process is continued until required number of
sections are made on the wooden swift. Then all the sections are taken and transferred to a
beam by means of running-off machine.
Warping
The sectional warping machine has the following advantages :
 It is suitable for striped warp.
 The labour charges are also less.
 Power requirement to drive the machine is low
 Sizing process is eliminated
The demerits are :
 There are two stages, namely, warping and beaming.
 Warp will have to be dyed, sized and dried separately by slow and
expensive processes before warping.
 Some amount of size will be removed from the warp during the process
of sectional warping.
Warping
Modern Developments In Warping
 The recent developments have been concerned with the improvement
of the headstock, which is considered to be crucial for achieving the
stringent quality requirements of the subsequent process in order to
weave quality fabric.
Head stock
 Recent developments have been concerned with improvements in the
headstock design with the basic objective of increasing the warping
speed and using larger warper beams to get more yarn content.
 In this context, attention has been focussed on aspects of warping
such passage of warp, beam drive, brake motion, etc.
 A number of developments have taken place in the introduction of
exact yarn guidance to prevent cross ends and for preparing
cylindrically wound beams of uniform length from a clean warp sheet.
 The new generation warping machines are either computer or
microprocessor controlled and display various process factors.
Warping
Modern Developments In Warping
Passage of warp
 The construction of headstock of modern high speed and super high
speed warpers are simplified to a great extent.
 It eliminates the passage of yarn through the conventional measuring
roller, the brake roller, the falling roller, etc.
 The yarn from the creel passes through the rear guide rod, the
expanding comb, over the front guide roller and finally onto the warping
beam.
 The present arrangement has helped to reduce the tension and the
friction of the yarn, thus leading to increase in the warping speed.
Warping
Modern Developments In Warping
End guidance and prevention of cross ends
 It is achieved by means of the following:
 Zig-zag comb with segments only 50 mm long.
 Short free yarn length between reed-deflecting roll beam
 Csing an automatic end uncrossing device between comb and
deflecting roll, which operates the ends by applying tension
Effective comb blow off
 The comb is always kept free from fluff by blowing air through jets.
 It prevents fluff from becoming trapped in the warp windings and thus
improves the warp quality.
Warping
Modern Developments In Warping
Warping beams
 The latest trend is towards using warper beams having large diameter
flanges, Flange diameter of beams used on modern super high speed
warping machine is as high as 1250 mm as against the flange diameter
of 50 cm used on slow speed warping machines.
 The yarn content on the beam has, therefore, increased considerably
and this gives longer runs on the sizing machine.
 The density of the beam is primarily controlled by the amount of
tension that is applied to each active yarn at the creel.
 The press roll is used to prevent the build up of ridges and to keep the
warp smooth. Pressure is applied to the roll hydraulically and is
adjustable.
 A gauge mounted at the control panel shows the amount of pressure
being applied.
Warping
Modern Developments In Warping
Yarn length measurement
 The warp length is determined precisely by measuring the revolution of the
beam and the press roller.
 The pulse measuring system takes into consideration the starting and braking
phases and by using fuzzy logic estimates the current diameter of the warp and
calculates the precise warp length on the basis of the warp beam speed.
Beam drive
 There is an increasing trend towards use of spindle driven machines having
some mechanical, hydraulic or electrical means to reduce the speed of the
warping beam as the diameter increases.
 The wooden or metallic drum is discarded in order to totally eliminate the
rubbing action of the winding drum on the warp which increases the hairiness of
the yarn and it was a barrier in the way of achieving higher warping speeds.
 To change the speed of the beam, as its diameter increases the DC motor with
speed-control either by varying the field-strength or the voltage input of the
motor used.
Warping
Modern Developments In Warping
Brake
 As modern high speed and super high speed warpers operate at very high speed and the
weight of the beam is also increased considerably, an efficient and powerful brake is
essential to stop the beam instantaneously.
 The ability to stop the beamer before ends are buried on the beam is paramount, but ends
will occasionally break so near to the beam that the end is buried.
 Usually the brake is operated by an automatic thread stop motion located at the creel and
from the full beam stop motion.
 The brake is either applied on the winding drum or the warping beam itself, depending on
the type of drive used. The brake may be applied by means of levers and weights, friction
discs, or by pneumatic and hydraulic devices or electromagnetic devices.
 Beam lowering and lifting motion
 As the weight of full beam can range from 272 kg to even 1 tonne or more, according to its
size, some power lifting and lowering devices are provided on modern warping machines.
 Doffing button is provided on the control panel, when pushed, and the beam is removed
from the machine by the semi-automatic hydraulic doffing mechanism. This system
supports the full beam, lowers it to the floor, and reloads the empty beam.
Warping
Modern Developments In Warping
Accumulators
 A yarn accumulator with a storage capacity of atleast 40 feet can be installed behind the
warper head to draw the entire yarn sheet from the beam should an end break at the comb
and get lost in the beam.
 The method of operation is to clamp first the entire yarn sheet at the creel side of the
accumulator, then the moveable rolls of the accumulator start down, and the entire yarn
sheet is unrolled from the beam until the broken end is uncovered.
 After the broken end is repaired, the warper rewinds yarn stored in the accumulator. When
the accumulator is emptied, the clamp automatically releases and normal operation is
resumed.
 Tension of the yarn sheet during accumulation and rewinding is controlled either
pneumatically or hydraulically. Installation of a photoelectric stop motion, between warper
carrier roll and beam, reduces length of yarn sheet that must be accumulated to repair the
broken end.
Static eliminator
 High-speed machines, which run faster than 500 m/min are normally equipped with double
the number of bars in combination with a biophase power unit. In order to obtain a proper
and neutral warp beam. A great advantage of neutralization is the fact, that the yarns can be
warped at equal distances, without repelling each other.
Warping
Productivity calculation