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WOMEN AND JEWELRY -THE TRADITIONAL AND RELIGIOUS DIMENSIONS OF

ORNAMENTATION

Article · January 2012

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 WOMEN AND JEWELRY - THE TRADITIONAL AND RELIGIOUS DIMENSIONS OF
ORNAMENTATION

ABSTRACT
Personal adornment of jewelry besides enhancing beauty symbolize status, wealth and
assets, excite the sense of prized possession ,titillate aesthetic satisfaction, display the
craftsmanship that go into their creation and continue an age old tradition .These primitive forms
of jewelry are a symbol of protective powers and traditional and religious affiliations. Indian
culture differs from Western culture in the shared importance placed on the spiritual and ethnic
values that permeate Indian life and imbue symbolic meaning into objects. Jewelry carries
spiritual, ethnic meaning that underlies its use as a ritual artifact as the bride crosses the
threshold of the extended family. This study examined the ritualistic use of jewelry during
various occasions to develop insights into the Indian’s perspective of possession meaning. As
jewelry is lent or given to each new bride that enters the extended family, the jewelry grows
heavier with nuanced meaning that becomes part of the legacy of the jewelry. Gifted and
borrowed jewelry plays an indispensable role in the ritual purification and transformation of the
bride from an ‘other’ commoditized female into part of the bridegroom’s extended self and
subsequent incorporation into the sacred domain of the extended family. Every traditional
jewelry worn has sacred and ethnic meanings based in notions of auspiciousness that persist,
even if a negative, indexical meaning profanes the possession. The Religious jewelry that is
selected reflects one’s consciousness and awareness at that moment and one’s request for
protection and blessings from the vast pantheon of Gods and Goddesses in their religion. Indian
consumers seem comfortable with the temporal co-existence of sacred and profane meanings.
Key words:- Jewelry metals, bridal ornaments, religious jewelry, style changes.

INTRODUCTION

"A wife being gaily adorned, her whole house is embellished; but, if she be destitute of
ornament, all will be deprived of decoration." Manu, 68.

Since the dawn of civilization, jewels have compensated for three of man’s basic
insecurities -vanity, superstition and the desire for material wealth. The motives behind the
desire for having jewelry may be of dubious virtue but the objects produced over the past 25,000
years are ceaseless fascination to aesthetic, traditional and academic alike.
The word jewelry is originated from the Latin word "jocale" which means plaything. It
includes any decorative article made from any material which is intended to be worn as personal
adornment whether hung ,pinned or clipped or sewn on to body (such as a necklace, bangle or
earring)or pinned, clipped or sewn on to clothing (such as a brooch, pin or beaded motif).Also
included are jeweled and beaded garments as well as functional objects such as buckles, hatpins
 and beaded garments as well as functional objects such as buckles, hatpins, hair combs ,tiepins
and cufflinks(Peacock ,2002).
Man’s fascination for these beautiful ornaments may be attributed to the following reasons-

 Man had the instinct of beauty

 Feeling of sex.

 Self preservation/ Protection (in the form of amulets and magical wards)

 Ritual and ethnic association

 Desire to seek high social status

 Asset, Currency, wealth display and storage

 Health

 Symbol of happiness and marital status.

 Functional use (such as clasps, pins and buckles)

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This study is based on secondary data. Materials of this article have been taken from relevant
books, journals and articles. The methods used are descriptive and analytical. The prime focus of
the present study is to analyze the significance of metals used for jewelry along with spiritual,
ethnic and traditional significance of religious jewelry. The materials used have at times been
drawn from the website and extreme care has been taken to be objective in approach.

DISCUSSIONS
Jewelry is one of the oldest forms of body adornment; recently found 100,000 year-old beads
made from Nassarius shells, are thought to be the oldest known jewelry. Its origin is clearly not
known but the tradition of wearing ornaments began earlier than wearing garments in prehistoric
times. Indian jewelry had its origin in the cult of adornment, going back to primitive man, who
took his cue from the birds and the animals (Jagannathan, 1878).

In India ,every State of India has its own special style of crafting and these styles have been
adapted by the Goldsmiths and Workers of that region like Jadau Jewelry of Rajasthan and
Gujarat, Minakari or Enamelling Jewellery of North India, Hollow ornaments of South India,
Gold filigree jewellery of Gujarat, Diamond or Stone studded jewellery of West-Bengal, Thewa
Jewellery of Rajasthan etc.

I. SIGNIFICANCE OF JEWELRY METALS

 Religious, ritual and traditional meaning or mystical significance is attached to the
decorative design, patterns or meaningful symbols of the different types of jewelry.
1. Gold jewelry- It is the most popular metal and worn against the skin at all times. It does not
oxidize or tarnish like most other metals and is considered very sacred by Hindus for religious
jewellery .It has the power to purify whatever it touches and is a symbol of affluence, authority,
health, wealth, feminity and prosperity within Indian culture. It also had sacred value, and good
luck charm. It represents Hindu goddess Lakshmi & considered highly auspicious. It became
cause of war and a medium of exchange. Gold destroys harmful germs in body and is considered
most SATTVIK .By using gold, divine energy is obtained in larger extent and one is liberated
from untimely death .In the epics Ramayana and the Mahabharata, it was gold that represented
the splendour and elevated status of the kings in the mythological stories. Gold jewelry carries
functional meaning for Hindu consumers, as a store of wealth and as a way to conform to social
norms of respectability (Gell 1986). It can also function as a private and public display of status
within and without the extended family (Minturn 1993).
2. Silver:- Importance of silver is next to gold. If one can’t adorn gold, then one can adorn silver.
Some ornaments like anklets, bangles and rings are made of silver. Generally Gold is worn
above waist and silver below waist. Silver is ruled by the Moon also called Luna by alchemists.
Silver is used for protection against magic. The symbolic meaning of the Moon is reaction and
reflection. The Moon acts as a mirror reflecting the light from the Sun and a mirror is a just glass
with a thin layer of Silver. The Moon is associated with femininity, motherliness, cycles and
changeable emotions and silver is used in rituals involving them. Silver neutralizes negativity
and helps in good dreams and intuition, psychic abilities.
3. Copper :- It is ruled by planet Venus and is mainly used for money and fertility. Venus has the
lowest rotation rate and its character is passive, receptive, ready to adapt and kind. Copper has a
great affinity to Venus because they share the same characteristics. It easily combines with other
metals and it easily transfers warmth and electricity. It is used in rituals for promoting love,
positive relationships, negotiations and peace.
4. Platinum :- Valued highly for the shine , clarity of its metal and it’s never fading look, platinum
costs much more than gold. It is produced by mixing metals from the platinum group, it is also
easy to clean and give a glowing sheen to platinum jewelry with the help of mild soap and soft
cloth. As well, platinum is a hypoallergenic metal and highly suitable for people with susceptible
skins.
5. Diamonds: - It is the most popular gemstone for engagements and marriages. Venus, its patron,
blesses the wearer of pure diamond with the comforts of life. It gives the wearer certain
supernatural powers and helps lead a soldier to victory. It is highly symbolic of immortal
characteristics such as indestructible power, purity and innocence, and of course eternal love. a
gift of love and the ultimate expression of love. It has the ability of purification of gross &
mental body. It emits the Absolute Fire element. When a diamond contains shining streaks,
resembling the feet of a crow, it can cause death to the wearer. Diamonds are divided into four
classes, or castes as follows:-

a) Brahmin caste -Those that are pure white and bestow great benefits upon the wearer.
b) Kshatriya, caste -Those that are red and bestow upon the wearer the power of eliciting the
obedience of his fellowmen.
 c) Banyan caste- Those that are yellow and bestow prosperity generally.
d) Sudra caste -Those that are black and mean ruin to the wearer.

6. Precious and semiprecious stones – Many magic properties are attached to certain gems and
are considered to be made of the deity, or planet with which each is connected. Stones are said to
pass their own special healing touch to the wearer. The precious stones are said to have an effect
on one's blood vessels and temperament. It is stated that the wearer of a particular gem receives
the blessing of its patron deity. It is a symbol of being wealthy and prosperous. These are of
following types:-
a) Ruby: - These highly valued precious gemstones are known for their intense red colour and
referred as “king of precious stones.”. The sun, their patron, can bless the wearer of good and.
pure rubies with wealth and prosperity. It is worn for protection of the gross body. It provides
energy. Following seven kinds of rubies are enumerated, each of which is said to bring
misfortune to the wearer. It is advisable to avoid any of these six kinds and not cast one's eyes
upon such a stone on awaking in the morning.

i. A ruby, with milky layers enveloping it, is said to bring poverty to the wearer.
ii. One with a broken ray in it can cause quarrels and disputes.
iii. One chipped can make enmity between relatives
iv. One full of cracks can plunge the wearer into sorrows forever.
v. One with many flaws can endanger the life of the wearer
vi. One rough and dark in colour can be sure to cause evils.
vii. Rubies containing two or three round spots are considered not lucky.

b) Pearls:- The moon, the patron of pearls, can bless a wearer of pure pearls with fame and the
pleasures of life. It is the symbol of coolness. It gives pleasure. One who wears pearls is blessed
with a son, become victorious and remains pure and healthy. There are said to be nine places in
which pearls are found as given below:-

i. In the clouds -this kind is said to be oval in shape, and to be worn by the gods.
ii. In the head of a serpent- these are said to be like a small red seed, and to have the quality of
relieving their wearers from all troubles.
iii. In the hollow of a bamboo- these are said to be black in colour, and to give the wearer
certain attractions.
iv. In a fish-these are white in colour, and protect the wearer from danger by fire.
v. In the head of an elephant- these are yellowish green and should be worn by kings.
vi. In a sugar cane; this kind is of a reddish colour and is said to have the power of causing all,
even kings and queens, to be subjected to the will of the wearer.
vii. In a conch shell- these are said to be like a dove's egg, but they cannot' be obtained by
ordinary men-it requires a knowledge of mantrams, or of magic, to get them.
viii. In the tusk of a wild boar- this kind is red in colour, and is in size like the règu fruit
(ziziphus jujuba) ; it will bring fame to the wearer.
ix. In the pearl oyster; of these there are said to be three kinds, of reddish, a golden, or a white
colour.
c) Emeralds: - One of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies and sapphires) and are
known for their fine green to bluish-green colour. It is favoured of Budhudu, the son of the
moon. It maintains the power of our body It has eight classes according to their colour. Poisons
have no power over those persons who wear a good emerald. It gives protection against the
power of the evil eye; and develops the mental faculties. Emeralds also have the power of
protecting the wearer of one from the designs of foes, from sorrows, madness, internal pains,
swoons and various diseases of the liver. A sure access to heaven is promised to that one who
freely gives an emerald to a Brahmin.
d) Sapphires: - The most popular form of sapphire is blue sapphire, which is known for its medium
to deep blue colour and strong saturation and is the most affordable of the three major precious
gemstones (emerald, ruby and sapphire). Yellow sapphire, enhances enthusiasm. They are
divided into three classes according to the depth of their colour. A sapphire is purest when, if
placed in milk, it gives to the milk a bluish tinge. It is then a true sapphire. A sapphire is said to
be electric, when a blade of grass will adhere to it though blown upon. Such a stone is said to
bring lustre to the wearer. The planet Saturn, the patron of sapphires, will bless the wearer of a
true sapphire with prosperity and immunity from death. There are also six kinds that are said to
bring evil as follows to the wearer:-
 quarrels with relatives
 loss of children
 hazard to life
 certain death within a year

e) Topaz:-It is described as having a colour like a drop of dew on a flower, and its patron deity
Jupiter and can bless the wearer with immense wealth.
f) Coral: - It is favoured of the ascending node of the moon .Four kinds of coral are enumerated
that will cause evil to the wearer, troubles, grief, disease, and death. There are six kinds of good
coral mentioned, according to the colour, and the wearer of such is promised the pleasures of life
and the accomplishment of his designs.
g) Agate:-The blessing of Mars is promised to the wearer of an agate, which blessing ensures
wealth and prosperity.
h) Jade: Jade is most commonly associated with the colour green, but can come in a number of
other colours as well. Jade is closely linked to Asian culture, history, and tradition, and is
sometimes referred to as the “stone of heaven”.
i) Other gemstones used are Amber, Amethyst, Jasper, Quartz, Turquoise etc.

Ornaments must be worn by relating one’s position of planets at the time they were born.
Each stone has been related to one planet. Each person has to wear ornaments according to their
“Graham” position. In case of rings, men wear at right hand, while women wear in left hand.
Every finger is connected to brain as follows:-

i. The thumb is believed to be connected to the brain neurons which connect the sexual
organs and it is identified with Venus, the goddess of love. Hence wearing of ring is
avoided in thumb so as to avoid frequent frictions in a specific part.
 ii. The index finger (second finger from Thumb) is identified with planet Jupiter. This
finger's nerves are connected to the brain, in its learning capacitor neurons. If in one's
horoscope Jupiter is ill placed then astrologers advice the person to wear gold ring in
index finger, preferably with Yellow Sapphire stone, which again identifies the Planet of
Jupiter.
iii. The Middle finger is said that its nerve is passing through the brain divider line and if
any metallic friction there is, then the confusion is caused in the brain whether the signal
given is from left or right side of the brain. When some important decision is to be taken
and if the confusion prevails because of wearing a ring in the middle finger, then it is
likely to be the wrong decision. To avoid this, generally people never wore nor wear any
rings in this middle finger. a person can wear a ring with Stone of Blue Sapphire or Coral
and is identified with planet Saturn.
iv. The ring finger (fourth finger from the Thumb) is identified with the Star-Sun. It is
widely believed, that the nerve passing through this finger is evenly spread to the entire
brain neuron cells and any frequent metallic friction caused in this finger is very good for
one's health. It also improves one's general capacity in handling his/her life with ease and
confidence. Specifically during engagements and marriages they use gold rings for men
and women very commonly in this finger. It also signifies one's marital status just at a
look.
v. The little finger is identified with planet Mercury which controls the organs that is ruling
the brain, thoughts and thinking. Any friction in this finger causes some disturbance in
one's thoughts. So only when the planet Mercury is weak in a native’s horoscope, then
they wear any ring in this finger with an Emerald stone. Table 1 shows the relation of
planets, gems with various fingers of the hand.

TABLE-1
PLANETS & ORNAMENTS

PLANET GEMS FINGER

Sun Ruby Ring finger
Moon Pearl Little finger
Mars Red coral Ring finger
Uranus Emerald Little finger
Jupiter Yellow sapphire index finger
Venus Diamond Ring finger
Saturn Blue sapphire Middle finger
Rahu Hessonite Little finger
Ketu Cat’s eye Little finger

II. BRIDAL ORNAMENTS AND SYMBOLISM

 Indian bridal jewelry has always been considered as 'streedhan' - personal wealth that would
stand in good stead in times of need. Sola shringaar accouterments or the sixteen traditional
accouterments with which every woman could adorn herself as laid down in Sanskrit texts are
enumerated below:-

1. NECKLACE: Protective pendants, necklaces and strings of beads, as well as elaborate

ornamental collars, were worn around the neck to bring good luck and avert the evil eye and a
protection against any attempt at hypnotizing. Mangulsutra/ thaali' is the most sacred string
with gold & black beads representing the many strands of emotions, love, faith, trust, friendship
etc that go into making up a relationship, especially one that is suppose to last a life time. Shiva
represents black bead and Shakti represents gold bead, hence symbolic representation of good
omen, dedication, everlasting devotion commitment, endurance and tolerance. The custom of
wearing Flower garlands symbolizing spirituality where husband by putting one of his two
garlands round the neck of his would be wife, bestows on her a half of his spiritual force, and she
repeating the process in her turn shares hers with him.
2. NOSE ORNAMENTS:- Nose piercing is the piercing of the skin or cartilage at the age of
sixteen which is what is considered to be the age to marry , honouring the goddess of marriage,
Parvathi. Many aristocratic families bring special nath,mookuth or bulak at weddings to be
worn by the bride. According to the Indian medicine, the female who get her nose pierced is
assumed to experience less pains while delivering the child and during monthly menstrual cycle
and protects from nasal infection. Removal of Nath means deflowering of a virgin .
Maharashtians wear a large ring shaped nose ring hanging to the chin while Adivasis wear nath
weighing to the size of 5 to 10 grams. For Muslim bride,it is obligatory at the time of marriage,
Nose studs adorned with small fish or bird are worn by Konkani brides(Goa)and ‘Nose Stud’ or
ring on left by Maharashtrian bride and on right by Gujarati bride signifies purity in a marriage
and is considered auspicious.
3. EAR ORNAMENTS:- Karnavedha or the practice of wearing earrings is a Vedic rite of
passage performed for a child. It is intended to open the inner ears of the child for receiving
sacred sounds for cleansing sin and nurturing the spirit highlighting deep mystical and symbolic
significance. Due to ear ornaments, pressure occurs on the ear lobe (acupressure) and creates a
protective sheath around the ear and protects from the negative energies ensuring a continuous
state of mental and physical well being. Sindhi bride’s wears gold earring each studded with nine
diamonds while Northern Kashmiri Brahmin brides wears Ateheru /dejhoru which is a gold ear
rings suspended on long red threads from a hole pierced in the upper part /cartilage of the ear.
Ear-drop (Kundala) in the shape of leaf, conch, serpent etc is the symbol of the Radiant Divine
Energy and is considered natural erotic stimulants, by virtue of their association with Kama, the
God of love.
4. ARM ORNAMENTS :- These are set of red bangles given to the bride from her maternal side
of the family. Punjabi bride wears a set of ivory bangles on each hand for 21 days /six months
while East Bengali bride wears Shakha (shell bangle)& paula (one coral bangle) and Rajasthani
bride wears Ivory bangles from her wrist to her upper arm for the rest of her life or till her
husband is alive symbolizing value, beauty, protective bands as guards over their husbands. It is
worn in the wrist part of one’s hand moulded into various shapes designs and constant friction
increases the blood circulation level and energy passed is sent back to the body. The tinkling
sound of women’s bangles is full of significant messages expressing her presence, her wish for
attention, her anger or desire to exchange glances.
 Glass bangles hold different meanings according to their color.Red bangles symbolize
energy,Blue symbolize wisdom ,Purple symbolizes independence,Green stands for luck or
marriage and are mostly worn by Indian women on auspicious or festival days,Yellow is for
happiness,Orange bangles mean success,White ones mean new beginnings ,Black ones mean
power,Silver bangles mean strength,Gold bangles mean fortune and good luck and combination
of black, green and red bangles are worn by brides to ward off evil spirits and to bring
prosperity and luck.
The South Indian ceremony called Valaikaapu occurs during the seventh month of a woman's
pregnancy, when bangles of all colors and designs are stacked on the woman's wrists to ward off
evil spirits that might be lurking around the mother-to-be or the baby in the womb. Rajput ladies
during medieval times, used to send silk or gold bracelet to her brother on Rakhi festival and if
received bodice in return, it meant that man is bound to defend her even if it cost his life. Gaana
is tied on the bride & groom's wrists to ward off evil eye. Baaju Band symbolizes bride’s newly
married status.
5. HAND/FINGER ORNAMENTS:-In West, simple band is worn as wedding /engagement ring
while In East, ring made of combination of a semiprecious stones is worn. The engagement ring
is worn in the ring finger of the left hand by the bride. The engagement ring could be a plain
band made of metal or could have various motifs and patterns embossed / stones set in it
symbolizing union of two people, marital status, and vein of love is said to connect that ring to
the heart. Very often, rings for all fingers on one hand, could be linked together with chains,
making a web like structure called the haath phool, which the bride often wears. Kaleere are tied
with thread on the choora of a bride at the time of marriage and made with the combination of
golden and silver with colourfull dories and beads.

6. FOREHEAD/HEAD ORNAMENTS:-Mangatika / Tikli is worn at the top of the forehead in

the parting of the hair which is believed to house the ‘ajna’ (agya to be precise) chakra standing
for preservation. Bindi/Kumkum usually a circular red dot of vermillion powder applied on the
area between the eyebrows (where the bindi is placed) is said to be the sixth chakra, ajna, the seat
of "concealed wisdom" using the ring finger and symbolizing female energy (Goddess
Parvati)and is believed to protect women and their husbands. Sindoor which is a Vermilion mark
on the forehead of women first applied by the husband as part of the wedding ceremony
symbolizes power, protection for her husband and married status.

7. FEET ORNAMENTS:-Anklets,Ghungru, payal, Kappu etc worn on the feet women avoids
wastage of bride’s energy but revibrate it back to one’s own body and its small metallic bells
rubbing against each other emits a melodious sound when the bride moves, lending her an aura
of enigma. Toe rings/ bichwa is a Silver ring with two or three line rounds worn in their second
finger from toe regularize the menstrual cycle giving good scope for conceiving while Silver
being good conductor also absorbs the energy from the polar energies from the earth and passes
it to the body thus refreshing whole body system. Uttar Pradesh and Bihari bride decorates each
toe with different silver twin rings with myriad motifs ranging from paisley, to fish to flowers
while in South India, bridegroom puts heavy ring on the second toe of bride’s each foot (two sets
of toe rings on each foot one for her brother and one for her husband) signifying dual status as
sister and wife. If her husband was to die then her brother would offer her protection. When
either the husband or brother dies, one set is removed.
 8. HAIR ORNAMENT:- Patiala parandi of Punjab ,small ghungroos attached to the hairpins of
West Bengal, ebony combs with perforations and floral patterns of Uttar Pradesh and snake
hood typed ornament jadainagam of Tamil Nadu symbolizes fertility.

9. WAIST ORNAMENT:- Oddiyaanam,hip belt,Kamarband or tagdi is a silver belt popular

worn by Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh women lends a delicate grace to the
wearer.
10. KOHL / KAJAL :–It is applied on baby's eyes and also as a small black dot on the forehead
from sixth day of birth. It is also applied on the edges of the upper and lower eyelids as an
'imperfection' to protect from evil.

III. RELIGIOUS JEWELRY

Religious, ethnic and traditional jewelry symbolizes the faith of a person in the particular
religion enhancing their individual style. The primitive motive for wearing all sorts of jewelry
might have been to guard the extremities and apertures of the body from the attacks of harmful
spirits. The simple wooden ornaments like strings of rudraksha beads and tulsi beads still provide
adornment for ascetics and holy men. The ring becomes a talisman, the charm a touchstone and
the pin a remembrance of all that their religion means to them. Religious jewelry is a silent
message and an old friend, a way to declare ones personhood and to remind oneself of one’s
origins.

a) Necklace with Pendant: People wear religious neck jewelry symbolic of their faith in their
respective religions, as protective talisman, keeping them away from dangers and evil spirits and
provide strength and humility.

i. Christian wear pendants having the chi-rho monogram, the dove (symbolic of the Holy
Spirit), the sacrificial lamb (symbolic of Christ's sacrifice), the vine (symbolizing the
necessary connectedness of the Christian with Christ), cross against a heart (symbolic of both
the love and sacrifice of Jesus or the love bestowed by the giver in union with that of Jesus),
crucifix(symbolic of Jesus crucification),cross (symbolic of the Christian religion) and medal
of Jesus Christ/a picture or medal of a Saint and sometimes a thread may be worn around the
neck.
ii. Hindus wear rudraksha beads necklace. pendants of Om, Cross, Swastika, Lord Ganesh,
Hanuman, Kali yantra, Lakshmi Lotus Pendant , Mayur Svelte Intricut Pendant, Shri
Talisman Pendant etc symbolizing feminine energy at its utmost strength, power and
perseverance.
iii. Muslims wears a locket containing religious writing is worn around the neck for protection
and strength and is never be removed. Pendants of Allah calligraphy or featuring the Kaaba ,
Ayat-ul-Qursi, Bismillah, ,Kalma etc are symbolic of one’s Muslim faith, beliefs and ideas
and evoked feelings of joy, sadness, devotion. Wearing Hamsa Hand of Fatima Charm
Pendant wards off evil spirits and brings luck. The hand as a symbol of luck and protection
from evil is a Middle Eastern custom shared by the Jews. Mecca, Kaabe Building Pendant
symbolizes the main event in the life of any Muslim i.e. the trip to Mecca hence is inspiring
and a great reminder of that religious duty. Silver coins inscribed with Ayatul Kursi, the
Throne verse from the Quran worn as necklaces is basically homage to the One God, Allah,
 who is the ruler and benefactor of everything that lives. It invokes Allah as protector of your
life. Reciting this verse is said to guarantee entry into paradise after death. Muslims don't use
pictures to inspire religious devotion. The reason is that in the Old Testament and the Koran
both the injunction is 'You shall not make for yourself an idol, or any likeness of what is in
heaven above or on the earth beneath or in the water under the earth.' (Deuteronomy 5:8).
Evil eye bracelets are also worn.
iv. Sikhs wear necklaces having pendants in the shape of sword (kirpan) symbolizing the
readiness to self defend and to protect the oppressed/needy and is sometimes worn as a
symbolic dagger. Khanda pendant symbolizes God’s Universal and Creative Power.

b) Religious Earrings:- Christian wears dangling crosses or the sacred heart to reaffirm their faith
in a their religion or sect. Hindu wears Swastik Diamond Drops, Trio Coin Earrings , Lakshmi
Coin Drops, Lakshmi Lotus Earrings, Mayur Earrings etc.
c) Religious bracelets: - Christians wears rosary or charm bracelets bracelets symbolic of their
respective faiths and attract lucky fortunes to them. Hindus wear brahmanical sacred thread
/black & tricoloured thread on their wrist as an Amulet or preservative against disease or
misfortune invariably consecrated with knots and also a religious sign. All Baptized Sikhs wear
Kara (a steel bangle worn by all ) worn on their right hand and is never removed which is not a
piece of jewellery, but a sign of faith and a constant reminder that one should only do good work,
and never do anything bad, with ones hands" .It is one of the Five K’s five articles of faith which
are a part of the Sikhs promise to the Guru – “Sikhs who commit to their faith honour the
sacrifices made by Guru Gobind Singh for the freedom and survival of their ancestors. As Sikhs,
we make a promise to carry his symbols with us until the day we die”. It is worn to clearly
outwardly display to the world a person's faith and commitment to the Sikh religion.
d) Religious Rings :- Rosary ring, Star and crescent rings, Sukhmani sahib simranee ring, annular
shaped talismanic bands are worn by people of various religions and serve as spiritual fetter.
e) Tilak/ Pottu:- It is also a religious symbol widely applied between the eyebrows, “Ajna Chakra”
(point that most schools of Hinduism consider the entry and exit point of our soul) during pujas
on devotees by priests with the ring finger and the thumb and the colour vary according to one’s
caste, religious sect or the form of the Lord worshipped. It provides feeling of sacredness on the
wearer and on the people with whom the wearer comes into contact. It is used to offer the god’s
support and blessing, bring youth and long life and to retain energy and strengthen concentration.
Worshippers of Lord Vishnu wears a Chandan (sandalwood paste) Tilak of the shape of “U”
where Straight line represents Vaishnava devotees. Lord Shiva worshippers apply a three
horizontal line bhasma or sacred ash. Horizontal lines represent Shaiva devotees symbolizing the
burning of our false identification with the mortal body, and freedom from the limitations of the
painfully illusive cycle of birth and death. It also reminds us of the perishable quality of the
body, which will one day be reduced to mere ashes. Worshippers of Devi apply a red dot of
kumkum which has a cooling effect, aids concentration and signifies our eternal link with the
Supreme Being, known as the Brahman. Plate-1 shows various types of religious pendants,
earrings, drops and rings used not only as decoration but also as a statement of faith.
 PLATE-1

IV. CHANGES IN METALS AND STYLES OF JEWELRY

Traditions have changed over the thousands of years since the beginning of Indian culture;
jewelry remains an integral part of religious, regional, traditional and social life. Indian jewelry
has strong influences of the culture of the Greeks, Syrians, Jews, Armenians, Arabs and the
Romans besides its own culture, tradition and rituals. India has always been the centre of a
network of trade links for gold jewelry and precious gems which were brought here through land
and sea routes. Later, Persian, Mughal and English influences were seen in the work of Indian
artisans. Mughals were obsessed with kundan jewelry which specialized in intricate work and
under them, enameling became a sophisticated process. Images of birds, trees, animals and
flowers were engraved on jewelry and other items. The 1700’s saw a blend of traditional designs
with Western influences. However, Indian craftsmen moved beyond imitation to establish their
own style. European influences were seen in items like rings, armbands and motifs. Style
changes in jewelry are shown in Table 2.
TABLE-2 STYLE CHANGES IN JEWELRY

CENTURY STYLE MOTIFS METALS USED

1930 Feminine jewelry Animal, bird, Precious metals, plastic & wood.
with figurative, stylized flowers
foliate & floral & fruits.
influences.
1940 Robust & assertive Ribbon like Bright gold, rubies, sapphires,
designs loops , curves & aquamarines & amethyats.
fan shapes.
Early 1950 Figurative designs Cartoon style Precious/glass stones set in
animals, fruit, platinum/gold
flower &
vegetables(mush
room)
Late 1950 Free & relaxed Tigers eye, Gold set with uncut crystals, semi
modern style asymmetric precious stones
motifs
1960 Past inspired Larger than life Luminous transparent or opaque
designs. designs plastic.
1970 Minimal & ethinic Strong shapes Small stones
designs with fine colored with
outlines. enamels.
1980 Retrochic, glittery, Diamonds
sparkling & showy
styles.
1999 Rich & varied Gold, white gold, platinum, palladium,
onwards range of real, titanium, silver, wood, shells ,bone ,
imitation, fake, stainless steel, bead, ivory, plastics,
fashion & costume Fused- glass, enamel, natural &
styles. polymer clay, hemp and other twines.
Source- Biswas, 2003.
Earlier gold, silver, ivory ,cornelians, agates, lapis-lazuli, amethysts, garnets, coral, pearl,
flowers, copper, diamonds, sapphires, topaz, cats eyes, ribbons and ties of silk or cotton were
used for jewelry. Most ornaments are common across India, with variations in designs and
material depending upon caste, religion, and geography of a place. The appearance of jewelry
has changed dramatically over the centuries, but the fact that men and women have sought
beautiful things to adorn themselves hasn’t. From centuries ago, master craftsmen have woven
precious stones and beautiful metals into designs fit for kings and queens. Expanding technology
over the past couple of centuries has wrought some important changes. Most notably, jewelry has
become more intricate and elaborate. Elaborately designed bulky and precious items are now
giving place to lighter and simpler forms. Custom designs are highly prized as more of the
jewelry manufacturing is done by machine. Materials have also changed. Instead of pure gold
 which is not always durable, chains and other jewelry are often made of tougher materials and
plated with gold. New materials have also emerged, including titanium - one of the hottest new
jewelry trends on the market. Platinum ornaments are slowly re-writing the history of gold
jewelry. Many new second-generation women are opting for diamond bridal jewelry, dropping
the mangalsutra for wedding bands, and adopting the Western tradition of diamond engagement
rings.
To coincide with the personality, fashion jewelry varies from diamond and pearl jewelry to
the latest fashions such as hair accessories and body jewelry with imitation stones and exquisite
setting. The matching of colour and design of jewelry with sari and blouse is becoming more
evident .To match every taste, a wide range of jewelry designs are available including beaded
earrings, shoulder dusters, tailored. Hoops and chandeliers at affordable prices. Less expensive
items like silver, copper and white metal have come into common use. Artificial jewelry is also
favored and is in great demand The popularity of beautiful low cost ornaments have helped to
bridge the symbolic gulf between the rich and not so rich classes though their jewel boxes may
be differing in size, weight and valve. Moreover, Plastic Fashion Jewelry and vintage fashion
jewelry are also very popular. Portraits of saints, altars, or ornaments worn on necklaces and
mythical creatures such as mermaids and dragons were very popular along with animals, such as
dolphins and lions. Each one of this fashion jewelry is known for its own unique design style and
also has a great influence on everybody. The more interesting fact is that there is swing towards
traditional forms, Ancient designs, even rural and tribal patterns are being copied with certain
modifications.

CONCLUSION

‘Who can resist the spell that is cast by the sparkle of a precious stone, by the mysterious glow of
a pearl, or by the transcendent purity of gold’

It has been rightly said that the 'purpose of ornaments is to light a kind of fire in a women's
heart'. It is, therefore, equally important to get ornaments made of pure metal so that all the
related benefits could be attained. Traditionally, ornaments were considered a symbol of
marriage and a widow did not adorn herself. Although this custom is still widely followed today,
its observance is not strictly followed in the present day.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Biswas,A.(2003).Indian costumes, Publications Division,New Delhi.109.

2. Fernandez ,K.V. and Veer ,K.(2004).The Gold that Binds: The Ritualistic Use of Jewelry in A
Hindu Wedding. Advances in Consumer Research.Vol-31,55.

3. Gell, Alfred .(1986). “Newcomers to the World of Goods: Consumption among the Muria
Gonds” The Social Life ofThings, (ed). Arjun Appadurai, Cambridge University
Press:Melbourne. 110-138.
 4. Jagannathan,Shakunthala.(1978).Eve’s weekly, Vikas publishing house Pvt.Ltd, New Delhi.15.
5. Minturn, Leigh. (1993). Sita’s Daughters: Coming out of Purdah, Oxford University Press:
New York.
6. Peacock, John. (2002).20th century Jewellary. The complete Sourcebook. Thames and Hudson
Ltd, London.6.
7. http://www.glamcheck.com/fashion/2010/07/30/types-and-varieties-of-indian-bridal-
jewellery/.

8. http://makeupandbeauty.com/significance-jewelry-india.

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